From sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net  Sat Apr  2 08:06:33 2011
From: sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net (Paul R Sheahan)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 08:06:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Reminder for the Southeast TAC Event April 9th
Message-ID: <18049.1917.qm@web83707.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Tiger Owners,   
      On Saturday April 9th Steve and Carole Halbrook will be hosting our
first TAC Event of the year at their home at 2857 Timber Knoll Drive in
Valrico, Florida.  If you are interested in having your Tiger TAC'd, please
let me know by a reply to this email or calling me at 704-564-3831.   If your
car has been TAC'd or you just want to drop in to talk with fellow owners,
come on by.  We will start around 10:30am.
      We look forward to seeing you there.
Paul
Paul R Sheahan

From Rollright at aol.com  Sat Apr  2 10:06:30 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 13:06:30 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
Message-ID: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>

Hello,
 
I'm nearly finished the Auto Meter tach project
 
1. take it apart
2. hog out the I.D. to accommodate the Sunbeam inner bezel
3. cut down the tach can rim diameter a bit
4. cut in the tabs into the tach can rim
5. paint the inside section blue
 
Here is where I got stuck. 
 
You know the rubber ring that goes between the glass and the lower black  
inner bezel?  I don't have one.
 
Anybody got any idea on where to get them?
 
Help!
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sat Apr  2 10:41:28 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 10:41:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
In-Reply-To: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>
Message-ID: <125203.44671.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Rocket Seals
1297 S. Lipan
Denver, Co. 777-7024
303-777-7024
Theye had all the different gauge sizes and I imangine any size you need.
TtT

--- On Sat, 4/2/11, Rollright at aol.com <Rollright at aol.com> wrote:

> From: Rollright at aol.com <Rollright at aol.com>
> Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Saturday, April 2, 2011, 12:06 PM
> Hello,
>
> I'm nearly finished the Auto Meter tach project
>
> 1. take it apart
> 2. hog out the I.D. to accommodate the Sunbeam inner bezel
> 3. cut down the tach can rim diameter a bit
> 4. cut in the tabs into the tach can rim
> 5. paint the inside section blue
>
> Here is where I got stuck.
>
> You know the rubber ring that goes between the glass and
> the lower black 
> inner bezel?  I don't have one.
>
> Anybody got any idea on where to get them?
>
> Help!
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A 382002083
> LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Sat Apr  2 13:45:13 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Sat, 02 Apr 2011 16:45:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Inner ring
Message-ID: <4D978AD9.1020309@roadrunner.com>

Jim:

Nisonger has them.  Or, go to your friendly local hardware store.  They 
usually have a cabinet full of O-rings of many sizes.  You might get lucky.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

From jim at island.net  Sat Apr  2 15:22:10 2011
From: jim at island.net (jim)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 15:22:10 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
In-Reply-To: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>
References: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007e01cbf184$694f4190$3bedc4b0$@net>

Hi Jim

The factory piece isn't actually an O ring as it's 'cut' but is just the
right length so it stays in place. It's round spongy rubber with a little
hole in the middle and is VERY soft. I have a length of 'new' stuff that I
got from a gauge restorer in England. It looks the same but is not as soft
so I have to 'pre-flatten' it with a big weight so it's not so thick. I
could send you a piece if you can't find anything locally... You don't have
any more 4" Jaeger gauges you can 'sacrifice' ??  ;) a speedo has the same
piece...


Jim
B382000446



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 10:07 AM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts

Hello,
 
I'm nearly finished the Auto Meter tach project
 
1. take it apart
2. hog out the I.D. to accommodate the Sunbeam inner bezel
3. cut down the tach can rim diameter a bit
4. cut in the tabs into the tach can rim
5. paint the inside section blue
 
Here is where I got stuck. 
 
You know the rubber ring that goes between the glass and the lower black  
inner bezel?  I don't have one.
 
Anybody got any idea on where to get them?
 
Help!
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim at island.net

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Apr  2 17:33:56 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 19:33:56 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] More throwout bearing, clutch fork fun......
In-Reply-To: <007e01cbf184$694f4190$3bedc4b0$@net>
References: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>
	<007e01cbf184$694f4190$3bedc4b0$@net>
Message-ID: <000001cbf196$d154b8d0$73fe2a70$@rr.com>

Worked on the alignment of the Quick Time #6063 scatter shield/clutch
fork/throwout bearing.  Remember I am using a 6 bolt clutch fork with the
much better bracket.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/001-3.jpg
There was no way to get the clutch fork in the correct position with the
stock holes in the scatter shield.  It was either too far in, or too far
out.  The fulcrum ended up needing to be where the mounting holes were.  So
I drilled two new holes 3/8" farther out and tapped them.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004-3.jpg
Clutch Fork is in correct position of the TOB in the disengaged position.
The clips on the TOB fully engage the clutch fork.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/005-3.jpg
TOB engaged position, all is still in alignment.

All this will be checked again once the flywheel and clutch is installed.  I
will need to make sure the clutch fork is the proper distance from the
scatter shield base.  This will be done with grade 8 washers.

Note - have to call Quick Time on Monday and get the correct adapter for the
scattershild to trans front bearing retainer.  None is installed in the
above pics.

Duke
382002037

From mgman71 at comcast.net  Sat Apr  2 18:09:20 2011
From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 01:09:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Valve cover decal
Message-ID: <980156310.453838.1301792960083.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Does anyone know where I can get the decal that is on the valve cover the one that says Product of the for motor company? Thanks again George 

From awtiger at cox.net  Sun Apr  3 20:08:47 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 21:08:47 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
Message-ID: <3377C06D79EE4399A964502CF608E0B4@awtigerPC>

Hey, guys:

Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since Christmas (I
know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out to get some exercise
and it was running great.  However, about seven miles into the run, it started
stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration load.  The further we drove, the
worse it got.  It finally did die on me once; however, it did start back up
after a minute of sitting there on the side of the road.  On the way back
home, it continued stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
under about 2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth out
and run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop and
raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it started to
die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the carb couldn't save
it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a minute if fired right back up
no problem.

I hate problems like this because they can sometimes be a real pain in the a$$
to track down.  Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start?  Fuel?
Electrical?

Thanks in advance,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
TAC #740

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Sat Apr  2 19:19:31 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 22:19:31 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
In-Reply-To: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>
References: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbf1a5$919d3cd0$b4d7b670$@com>

Jim,

MJC Products currently has a 4" Chrome Bezel kit on ebay at a buy-it-now price
of $13.61 + S/H.  It's ebay# 310181050128.  The kit contains new chrome bezel,
new glass face, the soft rubber 'O' ring that you are looking for, the other
internal 'O' ring, and the square-sectioned 'O' ring that goes between the bezel
and the dash.  You can probably contact the seller and get him to sell you less
than a complete kit, but at only $13.61, why not go for big casino.

-Will 382001570


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 1:06 PM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts

Hello,
 
I'm nearly finished the Auto Meter tach project
 
1. take it apart
2. hog out the I.D. to accommodate the Sunbeam inner bezel
3. cut down the tach can rim diameter a bit
4. cut in the tabs into the tach can rim
5. paint the inside section blue
 
Here is where I got stuck. 
 
You know the rubber ring that goes between the glass and the lower black  
inner bezel?  I don't have one.
 
Anybody got any idea on where to get them?
 
Help!
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sat Apr  2 19:46:19 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 22:46:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
Message-ID: <f8f8.279a4865.3ac9397b@aol.com>

Did you put fuel stabilizer in it when you put it away?  Have your  tanks 
ever been cleaned and coated?
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 4/2/2011 10:38:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
awtiger at cox.net writes:

Hey,  guys:

Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since  Christmas (I
know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out  to get some 
exercise
and it was running great.  However, about seven  miles into the run, it 
started
stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration  load.  The further we drove, the
worse it got.  It finally did  die on me once; however, it did start back up
after a minute of sitting  there on the side of the road.  On the way back
home, it continued  stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
under about  2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth 
out
and  run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop  and
raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it  started to
die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the  carb couldn't 
save
it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a  minute if fired right 
back up
no problem.

I hate problems like this  because they can sometimes be a real pain in the 
a$$
to track down.   Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start?   
Fuel?
Electrical?

Thanks in advance,
Andy Walker
Edmond,  OK
B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
TAC  #740
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Apr  2 19:51:53 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 21:51:53 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
In-Reply-To: <3377C06D79EE4399A964502CF608E0B4@awtigerPC>
References: <3377C06D79EE4399A964502CF608E0B4@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <000501cbf1aa$16ab71e0$440255a0$@rr.com>

Hey Andy,

1. Heat
2. Something is stuck in your idle control circuits
3. Make sure the acceleration pump is working and does not have a hole in it
4. Power valve blown out/leaking 

Are you running a Autolite or Holley?

Duke
B38002037 - looking forward to meeting other Tiger at Andy's garage warming
party.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of awtiger
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 9:09 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue

Hey, guys:

Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since Christmas (I
know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out to get some
exercise
and it was running great.  However, about seven miles into the run, it
started
stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration load.  The further we drove, the
worse it got.  It finally did die on me once; however, it did start back up
after a minute of sitting there on the side of the road.  On the way back
home, it continued stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
under about 2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth
out
and run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop and
raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it started to
die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the carb couldn't
save
it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a minute if fired right back
up
no problem.

I hate problems like this because they can sometimes be a real pain in the
a$$
to track down.  Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start?  Fuel?
Electrical?

Thanks in advance,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
TAC #740
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sat Apr  2 19:55:05 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 22:55:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
Message-ID: <fc3b.59de89b8.3ac93b89@aol.com>

Andy,
If you have a clear fuel filter it should be easy to see if anything from  
the tank is clogging things.  If you find it full of "stuff" you can  
contact the list and they can tell you what the substance most likely is.
If the car has only set for 3 months, the more I think about it, it  
probably isn't this 10% gas that has gone bad.  That would seem rather  quick, but 
then I don't know how long it takes to go bad.
Mark

 
 
In a message dated 4/2/2011 10:38:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
awtiger at cox.net writes:

Hey,  guys:

Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since  Christmas (I
know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out  to get some 
exercise
and it was running great.  However, about seven  miles into the run, it 
started
stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration  load.  The further we drove, the
worse it got.  It finally did  die on me once; however, it did start back up
after a minute of sitting  there on the side of the road.  On the way back
home, it continued  stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
under about  2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth 
out
and  run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop  and
raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it  started to
die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the  carb couldn't 
save
it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a  minute if fired right 
back up
no problem.

I hate problems like this  because they can sometimes be a real pain in the 
a$$
to track down.   Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start?   
Fuel?
Electrical?

Thanks in advance,
Andy Walker
Edmond,  OK
B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
TAC  #740
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From awtiger at cox.net  Sun Apr  3 21:32:48 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 22:32:48 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
In-Reply-To: <000501cbf1aa$16ab71e0$440255a0$@rr.com>
References: <3377C06D79EE4399A964502CF608E0B4@awtigerPC>
	<000501cbf1aa$16ab71e0$440255a0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <A961E8F7EAE844F291B0F6ABEECB6050@awtigerPC>

Duke, guys:

To clarify one point, I am running a 465 cfm Holley.  The car acts like the 
carb is loading up, but curiously enough, I've not seen any black smoke out 
the exhaust.  Whereas I realize that sitting is not good on a carb, what do 
you think the chances are that it's an electrical issue?  Maybe a condenser 
breaking down?

Andy

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Samouce's" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
To: "'awtiger'" <awtiger at cox.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 9:51 PM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Stumbling issue


> Hey Andy,
>
> 1. Heat
> 2. Something is stuck in your idle control circuits
> 3. Make sure the acceleration pump is working and does not have a hole in 
> it
> 4. Power valve blown out/leaking
>
> Are you running a Autolite or Holley?
>
> Duke
> B38002037 - looking forward to meeting other Tiger at Andy's garage 
> warming
> party.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of awtiger
> Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 9:09 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
>
> Hey, guys:
>
> Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since Christmas (I
> know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out to get some
> exercise
> and it was running great.  However, about seven miles into the run, it
> started
> stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration load.  The further we drove, 
> the
> worse it got.  It finally did die on me once; however, it did start back 
> up
> after a minute of sitting there on the side of the road.  On the way back
> home, it continued stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
> under about 2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth
> out
> and run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop and
> raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it started 
> to
> die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the carb couldn't
> save
> it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a minute if fired right 
> back
> up
> no problem.
>
> I hate problems like this because they can sometimes be a real pain in the
> a$$
> to track down.  Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start? 
> Fuel?
> Electrical?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sat Apr  2 20:39:25 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 20:39:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
Message-ID: <494587.61298.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Sure seems the best way to go and U will have all now o-rings of the correct
type.You couldnt have the bezel rechromed for that price. Bill Pass furnished
the place in Co. for the o-rings between  the dash and gauges. I ordered
extras besides the set he provided. I didnt look but I believe they are round.
They do carry a large assortment, so if the gauge to dash are square, its just
a phone call to find out.Nice job Will.
TtT

--- On Sat, 4/2/11, Will Seay <wseay at embarqmail.com> wrote:

> From: Will Seay <wseay at embarqmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
> To: Rollright at aol.com, tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Saturday, April 2, 2011, 9:19 PM
> Jim,
>
> MJC Products currently has a 4" Chrome Bezel kit on ebay at
> a buy-it-now price
> of $13.61 + S/H.  It's ebay# 310181050128.  The
> kit contains new chrome bezel,
> new glass face, the soft rubber 'O' ring that you are
> looking for, the other
> internal 'O' ring, and the square-sectioned 'O' ring that
> goes between the bezel
> and the dash.  You can probably contact the seller and
> get him to sell you less
> than a complete kit, but at only $13.61, why not go for big
> casino.
>
> -Will 382001570
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 1:06 PM
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
>
> Hello,
> 
> I'm nearly finished the Auto Meter tach project
> 
> 1. take it apart
> 2. hog out the I.D. to accommodate the Sunbeam inner bezel
> 3. cut down the tach can rim diameter a bit
> 4. cut in the tabs into the tach can rim
> 5. paint the inside section blue
> 
> Here is where I got stuck.
> 
> You know the rubber ring that goes between the glass and
> the lower black 
> inner bezel?  I don't have one.
> 
> Anybody got any idea on where to get them?
> 
> Help!
> 
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A 382002083
> LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com

From awtiger at cox.net  Sun Apr  3 21:38:24 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 22:38:24 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
In-Reply-To: <fc3b.59de89b8.3ac93b89@aol.com>
References: <fc3b.59de89b8.3ac93b89@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0127FC9F859E43CDAFB924DAEBC5B6FF@awtigerPC>

Mark:

I'd really be surprised if it's a problem with the fuel tanks flaking off and
clogging the fuel filter.  I would think that if this were the issue, that the
car wouldn't rev freely like it does in the higher rpm ranges.  I would think
it would be more likely to exhibit fuel starvation symptoms.  One more
thing...I have had it started a couple of times since the first of the year,
but it wasn't run for any length of time.

Thanks for the suggestion,
Andy
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: CoolVT at aol.com
  To: awtiger at cox.net ; tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 9:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stumbling issue


  Andy,
  If you have a clear fuel filter it should be easy to see if anything from
the tank is clogging things.  If you find it full of "stuff" you can contact
the list and they can tell you what the substance most likely is.
  If the car has only set for 3 months, the more I think about it, it probably
isn't this 10% gas that has gone bad.  That would seem rather quick, but then
I don't know how long it takes to go bad.
  Mark

  In a message dated 4/2/2011 10:38:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
awtiger at cox.net writes:
    Hey, guys:

    Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since Christmas
(I
    know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out to get some
exercise
    and it was running great.  However, about seven miles into the run, it
started
    stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration load.  The further we drove,
the
    worse it got.  It finally did die on me once; however, it did start back
up
    after a minute of sitting there on the side of the road.  On the way back
    home, it continued stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
    under about 2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth
out
    and run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop and
    raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it started
to
    die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the carb couldn't
save
    it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a minute if fired right
back up
    no problem.

    I hate problems like this because they can sometimes be a real pain in the
a$$
    to track down.  Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start?
Fuel?
    Electrical?

    Thanks in advance,
    Andy Walker
    Edmond, OK
    B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
    TAC #740
    _______________________________________________
    Tigers at autox.team.net
    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sat Apr  2 20:45:14 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 20:45:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] More throwout bearing, clutch fork fun......
In-Reply-To: <000001cbf196$d154b8d0$73fe2a70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <272289.19960.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Duke - someone mentioned in an earlier post that the bearing runs all the time
and the one listed in the Mustang business had a grease zerk. Can you drill
and tap yours for a zerk? If it does run continually, the zerk would be a
positive?
TtT

--- On Sat, 4/2/11, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

> From: Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
> Subject: [Tigers] More throwout bearing, clutch fork fun......
> To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
> Date: Saturday, April 2, 2011, 7:33 PM
> Worked on the alignment of the Quick
> Time #6063 scatter shield/clutch
> fork/throwout bearing.  Remember I am using a 6 bolt
> clutch fork with the
> much better bracket.
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/001-3.jpg
> There was no way to get the clutch fork in the correct
> position with the
> stock holes in the scatter shield.  It was either too
> far in, or too far
> out.  The fulcrum ended up needing to be where the
> mounting holes were.  So
> I drilled two new holes 3/8" farther out and tapped them.
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004-3.jpg
> Clutch Fork is in correct position of the TOB in the
> disengaged position.
> The clips on the TOB fully engage the clutch fork.
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/005-3.jpg
> TOB engaged position, all is still in alignment.
>
> All this will be checked again once the flywheel and clutch
> is installed.  I
> will need to make sure the clutch fork is the proper
> distance from the
> scatter shield base.  This will be done with grade 8
> washers.
>
> Note - have to call Quick Time on Monday and get the
> correct adapter for the
> scattershild to trans front bearing retainer.  None is
> installed in the
> above pics.
>
> Duke
> 382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com

From jim at island.net  Sat Apr  2 21:02:02 2011
From: jim at island.net (jim)
Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 21:02:02 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
In-Reply-To: <000001cbf1a5$919d3cd0$b4d7b670$@com>
References: <2ce7e.49f29639.3ac8b196@aol.com>
	<000001cbf1a5$919d3cd0$b4d7b670$@com>
Message-ID: <008201cbf1b3$e431cca0$ac9565e0$@net>

Note that that 'kit' contains a 'half v' profile chrome bezel which is most
common in 'Smiths' labeled gauges for Austin Healeys, etc. ... The Jaeger
gauges in Sunbeams all use the 'full v' profile...




-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Will Seay
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 7:20 PM
To: Rollright at aol.com; tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts

Jim,

MJC Products currently has a 4" Chrome Bezel kit on ebay at a buy-it-now
price
of $13.61 + S/H.  It's ebay# 310181050128.  The kit contains new chrome
bezel,
new glass face, the soft rubber 'O' ring that you are looking for, the other
internal 'O' ring, and the square-sectioned 'O' ring that goes between the
bezel
and the dash.  You can probably contact the seller and get him to sell you
less
than a complete kit, but at only $13.61, why not go for big casino.

-Will 382001570


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On
Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 1:06 PM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts

Hello,
 
I'm nearly finished the Auto Meter tach project
 
1. take it apart
2. hog out the I.D. to accommodate the Sunbeam inner bezel
3. cut down the tach can rim diameter a bit
4. cut in the tabs into the tach can rim
5. paint the inside section blue
 
Here is where I got stuck. 
 
You know the rubber ring that goes between the glass and the lower black  
inner bezel?  I don't have one.
 
Anybody got any idea on where to get them?
 
Help!
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Sat Apr  2 21:09:29 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 04:09:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
In-Reply-To: <A961E8F7EAE844F291B0F6ABEECB6050@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <1040185982.3495230.1301803769807.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

It is always the last thing you check.... :>).B B B  Have a look at your
secondary throttle butterflys and how freely they open and close too.B B 
After sitting a while they may not be closing completely, perhaps sticking
open a little or intermittently.B B  When you are are running higher RPMsB its
okay for them to be open, at lower speeds not type of thing you want.B B  And
like has already been mentioned, something heat related sure seems to be a
trigger.



Good luck!



Gene



----- Original Message -----
From: "awtiger" <awtiger at cox.net>
To: "Samouce's" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>, tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 3, 2011 10:32:48 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stumbling issue

Duke, guys:

To clarify one point, I am running a 465 cfm Holley. B The car acts like the
carb is loading up, but curiously enough, I've not seen any black smoke out
the exhaust. B Whereas I realize that sitting is not good on a carb, what do
you think the chances are that it's an electrical issue? B Maybe a condenser
breaking down?

Andy

----- Original Message -----
From: "Samouce's" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
To: "'awtiger'" <awtiger at cox.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 9:51 PM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Stumbling issue


> Hey Andy,
>
> 1. Heat
> 2. Something is stuck in your idle control circuits
> 3. Make sure the acceleration pump is working and does not have a hole in
> it
> 4. Power valve blown out/leaking
>
> Are you running a Autolite or Holley?
>
> Duke
> B38002037 - looking forward to meeting other Tiger at Andy's garage
> warming
> party.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of awtiger
> Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 9:09 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
>
> Hey, guys:
>
> Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since Christmas (I
> know, I know...stupid me...). B My wife and I took it out to get some
> exercise
> and it was running great. B However, about seven miles into the run, it
> started
> stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration load. B The further we drove,
> the
> worse it got. B It finally did die on me once; however, it did start back
> up
> after a minute of sitting there on the side of the road. B On the way back
> home, it continued stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
> under about 2K). B I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth
> out
> and run okay, though. B Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop and
> raised the hood. B As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it started
> to
> die. B Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the carb couldn't
> save
> it and it died again. B Then, once again, after a minute if fired right
> back
> up
> no problem.
>
> I hate problems like this because they can sometimes be a real pain in the
> a$$
> to track down. B Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start?
> Fuel?
> Electrical?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net

From jaars at emailmv.com  Sun Apr  3 07:13:18 2011
From: jaars at emailmv.com (Robert Jaarsma)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 09:13:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tach / Speedo parts
Message-ID: <20F99D4D3EAB4F99BEDB82706FEA2F5A@userqlmt4f4s6s>

Jim,
A good source is MSC (Manhattan Supply Company)  www.mscdirect.com
<http://www.mscdirect.com/>  
They sell "O-ring Cord Stock" by the yard. Round, metric, inch, and the
square type you need for the outside. Probably also the softer types.
With superglue you make all O-rings of whatever size you need. That's
how O-rings are made any way.
Robert

From Rollright at aol.com  Sun Apr  3 07:34:14 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 09:34:14 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] tach project
Message-ID: <16aaee.7120a1c2.3ac9d156@aol.com>

Thanks to all
 
I decided to get the kit as my bezel and glass are not perfect.
 
I'll flatten out the under glass bezel with a pile of books and  hammers!
 
Best,
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net  Sun Apr  3 07:54:22 2011
From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel)
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2011 06:54:22 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
In-Reply-To: <0127FC9F859E43CDAFB924DAEBC5B6FF@awtigerPC>
References: <fc3b.59de89b8.3ac93b89@aol.com>
	<0127FC9F859E43CDAFB924DAEBC5B6FF@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <87839E18541542E1BC9BE4B37BA8CB9F@BUCK>

Believe it or not... It's possible to have a tank flaking problem and have 
the plastic filter clear at the same time. Been there / Done that.

Had clear fuel filter for years. And then it suddenly didn't run. It had 
been running fine which it will do as long as there's gas in the bowls. It 
rev'ed and had punch because it could  run of the bowl's fuel. Suddenly it 
stopped.

The flakes had packed into the outlet tube connecting the cross-over pipe 
inside the trunk to the fuel line underneath so tightly they first acted as 
a screen that stopped any flakes  getting to the clear filter... for years!

 Eventually the "dam" packed down tight enough to give the symptoms Andy 
has. Fuel can seep past the blockage and the pump will keep it pressurized. 
Eventually the bowls will run low on fuel. This will cause the car to simply 
stop, usually without warning. Waiting a few minutes allows a bit more fuel 
to seep through & the engine can be restarted and seems fine.... For the 
time being.

The blockage can be cleared in a minute or two. In a safe area, loosen the 
11/16" nut on the fuel line and pop the fuel line out of the tube. If gas 
pours out you don't have a problem. If it's stopped or just a trickle, a 
wire coat hanger with a small hook bent it into it can be inserted and then 
used to pull the mess out. A very large pan and safety glasses are in order.

good luck,

BT
P.S. a good flashlight will allow you to see flaking in the passenger side 
tank through the gas cap.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "awtiger" <awtiger at cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 8:38 PM
To: <CoolVT at aol.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stumbling issue

> Mark:
>
> I'd really be surprised if it's a problem with the fuel tanks flaking off 
> and
> clogging the fuel filter.  I would think that if this were the issue, that 
> the
> car wouldn't rev freely like it does in the higher rpm ranges.  I would 
> think
> it would be more likely to exhibit fuel starvation symptoms.  One more
> thing...I have had it started a couple of times since the first of the 
> year,
> but it wasn't run for any length of time.
>
> Thanks for the suggestion,
> Andy

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sun Apr  3 07:55:26 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 08:55:26 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
In-Reply-To: <A961E8F7EAE844F291B0F6ABEECB6050@awtigerPC>
References: <3377C06D79EE4399A964502CF608E0B4@awtigerPC>
	<000501cbf1aa$16ab71e0$440255a0$@rr.com>
	<A961E8F7EAE844F291B0F6ABEECB6050@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <000001cbf206$c8ee5820$5acb0860$@rr.com>

I would think an electric issue would present itself at higher RPMs when you
need more spark.

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: awtiger [mailto:awtiger at cox.net] 
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 10:33 PM
To: Samouce's; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stumbling issue

Duke, guys:

To clarify one point, I am running a 465 cfm Holley.  The car acts like the 
carb is loading up, but curiously enough, I've not seen any black smoke out 
the exhaust.  Whereas I realize that sitting is not good on a carb, what do 
you think the chances are that it's an electrical issue?  Maybe a condenser 
breaking down?

Andy

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Samouce's" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
To: "'awtiger'" <awtiger at cox.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 9:51 PM
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Stumbling issue


> Hey Andy,
>
> 1. Heat
> 2. Something is stuck in your idle control circuits
> 3. Make sure the acceleration pump is working and does not have a hole in 
> it
> 4. Power valve blown out/leaking
>
> Are you running a Autolite or Holley?
>
> Duke
> B38002037 - looking forward to meeting other Tiger at Andy's garage 
> warming
> party.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of awtiger
> Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 9:09 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
>
> Hey, guys:
>
> Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since Christmas (I
> know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out to get some
> exercise
> and it was running great.  However, about seven miles into the run, it
> started
> stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration load.  The further we drove, 
> the
> worse it got.  It finally did die on me once; however, it did start back 
> up
> after a minute of sitting there on the side of the road.  On the way back
> home, it continued stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm (anything
> under about 2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it would smooth
> out
> and run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it into the shop and
> raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner off, it started 
> to
> die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of the carb couldn't
> save
> it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a minute if fired right 
> back
> up
> no problem.
>
> I hate problems like this because they can sometimes be a real pain in the
> a$$
> to track down.  Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start? 
> Fuel?
> Electrical?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
> TAC #740
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Apr  3 08:02:27 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 10:02:27 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
In-Reply-To: <3377C06D79EE4399A964502CF608E0B4@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <06A06B6338DA425A8E52AEC6871E77B5@ronpc1>

Andy
	This is a difficult one.   Your going to have to step through a tune
up.

I had something like this a couple years ago but it got progressively harder
to start the engine.   I found 3 spark plug wires that were bad.   I once
had a set of points that got contaminated, made the engine run like crap.  I
switched to a Pertronix unit soon after.

I would start looking at the electrical side first; check all the wires in
the ignition system for continuity and good connection.  Check all the
connection in the distributor too.

Check to make sure the distributor is advancing correctly and retuning to
initial timing OK.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of awtiger
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 10:09 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue


Hey, guys:

Just got my Tiger out of hibernation; it's been sitting since Christmas (I
know, I know...stupid me...).  My wife and I took it out to get some
exercise and it was running great.  However, about seven miles into the run,
it started stumbling at low rpm under an acceleration load.  The further we
drove, the worse it got.  It finally did die on me once; however, it did
start back up after a minute of sitting there on the side of the road.  On
the way back home, it continued stumbling and missing erratically at low rpm
(anything under about 2K).  I found that if I wound it up past that, it
would smooth out and run okay, though.  Once we got it home, I pulled it
into the shop and raised the hood.  As I was trying to get the air cleaner
off, it started to die.  Even flipping the throttle linkage on the side of
the carb couldn't save it and it died again.  Then, once again, after a
minute if fired right back up no problem.

I hate problems like this because they can sometimes be a real pain in the
a$$ to track down.  Does anybody have any ideas of where I should start?
Fuel? Electrical?

Thanks in advance,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE (mis-behaving right now...)
TAC #740
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3546 - Release Date: 04/02/11
06:34:00

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Sun Apr  3 08:07:14 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2011 10:07:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling
Message-ID: <4D987F12.9060408@roadrunner.com>

Andy:

I would agree with Duke - something is probably stuck, perhaps the 
float.  Get some carb cleaner and give it a shot and see if that works.  
On the off chance that it is a condenser, they are easily replaced.  
Even better, it would be a good time to convert to Pertronix or some 
other solid-state ignition, if you haven't done so.  Just one more thing 
you won't have to worry about.

10 inches of new snow the other day, so no Tigering this weekend in Maine.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Apr  3 10:21:40 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 12:21:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Valve cover decal
In-Reply-To: <980156310.453838.1301792960083.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E0219435B97A4F14B425E14BEEB9BC3E@ronpc1>

George 
	I don't believe anyone reproduces that decal.   I don't think I have
ever seen a good picture of that decal either.

It would be nice to see them available; I would buy one.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of George Re
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 9:09 PM
To: Tigers
Subject: [Tigers] Valve cover decal


Does anyone know where I can get the decal that is on the valve cover the
one that says Product of the for motor company? Thanks again George 
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3546 - Release Date: 04/02/11
06:34:00

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Sun Apr  3 10:52:26 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 16:52:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Valve cover decal
In-Reply-To: <980156310.453838.1301792960083.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <303724670.3506159.1301849546343.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

George, I heard once thatB a guy ordered a Sunbeam ID tag for his right side
valve cover from Sunbeam Specialties and also got a Product of the Ford Motor
Company decal for the left side cover in the package.You might check with them
and see what they may have these days.Cheers, Gene




----- Original Message -----
From: "George Re" <mgman71 at comcast.net>
To: "Tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 2, 2011 8:09:20 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Valve cover decal

Does anyone know where I can get the decal that is on the valve cover the one
that says Product of the for motor company? Thanks again George
_______________________________________________
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From garywinblad at comcast.net  Sun Apr  3 11:39:19 2011
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary Winblad)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 17:39:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Valve cover decal
In-Reply-To: <303724670.3506159.1301849546343.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <239587856.147675.1301852359474.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

That's where I got mine.
Though, it was YEARS ago...
I'd think any Mustang shop would have it.

----- Original Message -----
From: genepadgett at comcast.net
To: George Re <mgman71 at comcast.net>
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 03 Apr 2011 16:52:26 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Valve cover decal

George, I heard once thatB a guy ordered a Sunbeam ID tag for his right side
valve cover from Sunbeam Specialties and also got a Product of the Ford Motor
Company decal for the left side cover in the package.You might check with them
and see what they may have these days.Cheers, Gene

From jim at island.net  Sun Apr  3 11:41:20 2011
From: jim at island.net (jim)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 10:41:20 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] tach project
In-Reply-To: <16aaee.7120a1c2.3ac9d156@aol.com>
References: <16aaee.7120a1c2.3ac9d156@aol.com>
Message-ID: <009d01cbf226$58087760$08196620$@net>

I believe that the fellow on e-Bay listing the gauge kits has this
website...

http://www.classicbezels.com/


Jim
B382000446



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 6:34 AM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] tach project

Thanks to all
 
I decided to get the kit as my bezel and glass are not perfect.
 
I'll flatten out the under glass bezel with a pile of books and  hammers!
 
Best,
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________

From Rollright at aol.com  Sun Apr  3 13:15:40 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 15:15:40 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Ford valve cover tag
Message-ID: <67131.4c5c909b.3aca215c@aol.com>

Hello
 
Rick has that small decal/tag. I asked him about it when I had my engine  
rebuilt a few years ago.
 
Rick said " yes I've got them, but when the engine gets hot, they shrivel  
up"
 
I said "let me try"
 
I did, and it shriveled up.........
 
Another source should be persued.
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From FHSLOTH13 at aol.com  Sun Apr  3 13:56:51 2011
From: FHSLOTH13 at aol.com (FHSLOTH13 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 15:56:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Ford valve cover tag
Message-ID: <1755f.b700c38.3aca2b03@aol.com>

With the aluminum valve covers I made the tag and stuck it to a sticky  
backed magnetic sheet. I then placed it on the firewall near the VIN tag. When 
I  want to remove it the paint under it does not get destroyed. I have done  
that with all the tags, stickers, club decals, etc. that I want to  display.
 
Fred Baum
 
 
In a message dated 4/3/2011 3:36:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Rollright at aol.com writes:

Hello

Rick has that small decal/tag. I asked him about it  when I had my engine  
rebuilt a few years ago.

Rick said " yes  I've got them, but when the engine gets hot, they shrivel  
 
up"

I said "let me try"

I did, and it shriveled  up.........

Another source should be persued.



Jim   Armstrong
Mk 1A  382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
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From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sun Apr  3 14:24:51 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 15:24:51 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Ford valve cover tag
In-Reply-To: <67131.4c5c909b.3aca215c@aol.com>
References: <67131.4c5c909b.3aca215c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601cbf23d$2fc8d990$8f5a8cb0$@rr.com>

I got mine from Rick and it has been on the driver side rear valve cover for
over a year....still looks great.

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2011 2:16 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Ford valve cover tag

Hello
 
Rick has that small decal/tag. I asked him about it when I had my engine  
rebuilt a few years ago.
 
Rick said " yes I've got them, but when the engine gets hot, they shrivel  
up"
 
I said "let me try"
 
I did, and it shriveled up.........
 
Another source should be persued.
 
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  4 00:44:03 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 23:44:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] su fuel pump fittings
In-Reply-To: <0127FC9F859E43CDAFB924DAEBC5B6FF@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <456066.27789.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Recently someone postd that they needed the orginal fuel line fitting that screw into the SU [omp.
I think I can help if you are still in need.
regards, TonytheTiger

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  4 00:57:00 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 23:57:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted
Message-ID: <100404.58833.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Earlier thus evening I was checking the body of my first Mk1A, The rivets look orginal but Im not certified. The paint code is 39 which I think is carinval red( please chip in here). The JAL has a yellow, pure baby s--- yellow but chipping the yellow off there are 2 colors of red. I was at my cousin grarge and he doesnt have very good lights, so one color of red may have been primer but I think the other is orginal. I cant see under the VIN which has no paint on it but the JAL tag has been painted over and in under. Could an orginal owner tell me if the JAL is painted and if it has the orginal paint under it. It seems I read in an old post tht the orginl paint is under the VIN. Anyone that knows the answers to my qustions- your reply is appreciated.
regards, TonytheTiger

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Mon Apr  4 02:11:31 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 18:11:31 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] 2011 british and european show
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com>

Anual 2011 British and European show in melbourne, 19 sunbeams
attended along with many mercedes, fords, healeys, bristols, jensens
and about any other brit or euro car you can think..

pics here:
http://community.webshots.com/album/580001509NPnZsI?start=0

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Mon Apr  4 02:12:52 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 08:12:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted
In-Reply-To: <1182615646.3535049.1301904641259.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <553691455.3535094.1301904772861.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Tony, yes 39 is C arnival R ed and the JAL tag on my car (original owner and original paint) is painted the body color. Regards, Gene 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Somebody" <achd73 at yahoo.com> 
To: tigers at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2011 1:57:00 AM 
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted 

Earlier thus evening I was checking the body of my first Mk1A, The rivets look orginal but Im not certified. The paint code is 39 which I think is carinval red( please chip in here). The JAL has a yellow, pure baby s--- yellow but chipping the yellow off there are 2 colors of red. I was at my cousin grarge and he doesnt have very good lights, so one color of red may have been primer but I think the other is orginal. I cant see under the VIN which has no paint on it but the JAL tag has been painted over and in under. Could an orginal owner tell me if the JAL is painted and if it has the orginal paint under it. It seems I read in an old post tht the orginl paint is under the VIN. Anyone that knows the answers to my qustions- your reply is appreciated. 
regards, TonytheTiger 
_______________________________________________ 
Tigers at autox.team.net 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net 

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Mon Apr  4 02:17:41 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 08:17:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] su fuel pump fittings
In-Reply-To: <456066.27789.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <990855305.3535143.1301905061532.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Tony, we no longer need them, but thanks for offering to help. Regards,
GeneB B B 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Somebody" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2011 1:44:03 AM
Subject: [Tigers] su fuel pump fittings

Recently someone postd that they needed the orginal fuel line fitting that
screw into the SU [omp.
I think I can help if you are still in need.
regards, TonytheTiger
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From allanballard at att.net  Mon Apr  4 02:22:26 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 04:22:26 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted
In-Reply-To: <100404.58833.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <100404.58833.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5A76331B-0B0D-4174-AB6F-B5494361A4F3@att.net>

Alpine paint codes are here:

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?categoryid=19

Code 39 = Carnival Red.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

On Apr 4, 2011, at 2:57 AM, Tony Somebody wrote:

> Earlier thus evening I was checking the body of my first Mk1A, The rivets
look orginal but Im not certified. The paint code is 39 which I think is
carinval red( please chip in here). The JAL has a yellow, pure baby s---
yellow but chipping the yellow off there are 2 colors of red. I was at my
cousin grarge and he doesnt have very good lights, so one color of red may
have been primer but I think the other is orginal. I cant see under the VIN
which has no paint on it but the JAL tag has been painted over and in under.
Could an orginal owner tell me if the JAL is painted and if it has the orginal
paint under it. It seems I read in an old post tht the orginl paint is under
the VIN. Anyone that knows the answers to my qustions- your reply is
appreciated.
> regards, TonytheTiger
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From walmenke at bigpond.net.au  Mon Apr  4 05:48:13 2011
From: walmenke at bigpond.net.au (Wally Menke)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 21:48:13 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <49EB62EC765244BE956A3A5D131CFB61@ronpc1>
References: <30F187A6711F45F7AF813694F7BC0BA4@JPC>
	<49EB62EC765244BE956A3A5D131CFB61@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <001e01cbf2be$2e519e40$8af4dac0$@net.au>

I can conclusively say that the Autometer sensor does not work accurately
with the standard gauge. From memory it reads way too high.

Wally Menke


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Friday, 1 April 2011 11:00 AM
To: 'James Lindner'; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy

Jim 
	This is a post from several years ago from Tom Prager maybe it will
help.

 On Behalf Of Thomas Prager
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 10:18 AM
> To: tigers_United_forum
> Subject: sending unit for Edelbrock manifold
>
>
> A good solution to the temperature sender "problem" is to buy an 
> AutoMeter temp sender and screw it in.  It runs the stock gauge 
> PERFECTLY.  It costs about $20 and comes with several thread adapters. 
> The Autometer temperature sender that will work with the stock Jaeger 
> gauge is Model 2254.
>
> tom

 

__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 6013 (20110404) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Apr  4 06:45:56 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 08:45:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted
In-Reply-To: <100404.58833.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <421D737A3224470B838A3F8A2133ED92@ronpc1>

Tony
	According to TBON there is no paint under the JAL tag which means
that tag was installed before the body went through paint.   The JAL tag
should have the red oxide primer sealer then body color.

The Vin tag was installed later.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 2:57 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted


Earlier thus evening I was checking the body of my first Mk1A, The rivets
look orginal but Im not certified. The paint code is 39 which I think is
carinval red( please chip in here). The JAL has a yellow, pure baby s---
yellow but chipping the yellow off there are 2 colors of red. I was at my
cousin grarge and he doesnt have very good lights, so one color of red may
have been primer but I think the other is orginal. I cant see under the VIN
which has no paint on it but the JAL tag has been painted over and in under.
Could an orginal owner tell me if the JAL is painted and if it has the
orginal paint under it. It seems I read in an old post tht the orginl paint
is under the VIN. Anyone that knows the answers to my qustions- your reply
is appreciated. regards, TonytheTiger
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3546 - Release Date: 04/02/11
06:34:00

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Mon Apr  4 06:56:55 2011
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary Winblad)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 12:56:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <001e01cbf2be$2e519e40$8af4dac0$@net.au>
Message-ID: <1483965496.178008.1301921815637.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I beg to differ.
Perhaps you bought the wrong Autometer sender, they do have several
types.
Any given sender and any given gauge will be slightly different but the Autometer
sender is as close as any original type.
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Wally Menke <walmenke at bigpond.net.au>
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com, 'James Lindner' <jliny5 at cox.net>, tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 04 Apr 2011 11:48:13 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy

I can conclusively say that the Autometer sensor does not work accurately
with the standard gauge. From memory it reads way too high.

Wally Menke

From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Apr  4 07:25:24 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 09:25:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
Message-ID: <103c3.633659c2.3acb20bf@aol.com>

My experience too was that it seemed to give a reading that was very  
similar to the stock sender.
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 4/4/2011 9:18:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
garywinblad at comcast.net writes:

I beg to  differ.
Perhaps you bought the wrong Autometer sender, they do have  several
types.
Any given sender and any given gauge will be slightly  different but the 
Autometer
sender is as close as any original  type.
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Wally Menke  <walmenke at bigpond.net.au>
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com, 'James Lindner'  <jliny5 at cox.net>, 
tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 04 Apr 2011  11:48:13 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy

I can  conclusively say that the Autometer sensor does not work accurately
with  the standard gauge. From memory it reads way too high.

Wally  Menke
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From v8tracker at gmail.com  Mon Apr  4 10:01:43 2011
From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 11:01:43 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] 2011 british and european show
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CC5E9472AFD426289CFC4D2404A4DF1@DellD4700>

Michael,

As usual, you have given us another great group of pictures.

Seeing cars that we seldom, if ever, see here is always a real treat. Three
Merc 600's in a group? Unbelievable.

Thanks,
A. C. Tynes


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 3:12 AM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] 2011 british and european show

Anual 2011 British and European show in melbourne, 19 sunbeams
attended along with many mercedes, fords, healeys, bristols, jensens
and about any other brit or euro car you can think..

pics here:
http://community.webshots.com/album/580001509NPnZsI?start=0

--
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com


________________________________

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3549 - Release Date: 04/04/11

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Mon Apr  4 12:39:00 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 14:39:00 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted
In-Reply-To: <100404.58833.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <100404.58833.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000101cbf2f7$909d8f80$b1d8ae80$@com>

Tony,

Paint code 39 is Carnival Red.  The JAL tag is painted body color, and according
to Norm, if you remove the JAL tag you will find red primer.  Apparently the
factory put the JAL tag on before the car was painted.  Also, the JAL tag is
mounted with two small sheet-metal screws - not rivets.

-Will 382001570


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 2:57 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] paint and WHAT is painted

Earlier thus evening I was checking the body of my first Mk1A, The rivets look
orginal but Im not certified. The paint code is 39 which I think is carinval
red( please chip in here). The JAL has a yellow, pure baby s--- yellow but
chipping the yellow off there are 2 colors of red. I was at my cousin grarge and
he doesnt have very good lights, so one color of red may have been primer but I
think the other is orginal. I cant see under the VIN which has no paint on it
but the JAL tag has been painted over and in under. Could an orginal owner tell
me if the JAL is painted and if it has the orginal paint under it. It seems I
read in an old post tht the orginl paint is under the VIN. Anyone that knows the
answers to my qustions- your reply is appreciated.
regards, TonytheTiger
_______________________________________________

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Mon Apr  4 16:31:49 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 17:31:49 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <4CC5E9472AFD426289CFC4D2404A4DF1@DellD4700>
References: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4CC5E9472AFD426289CFC4D2404A4DF1@DellD4700>
Message-ID: <000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>

Hello again,

So I have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake manifold
bolted down, they arrive and are completely the wrong size.

I run down to the auto parts store and get some that fit (should have done
that in the first place).

Here is my problem, they will not thread flush with the manifold.  The
adapter for the water temp sensor has to be fully seated for the sensor to
clear the distributer.

The heater return looks just stupid.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-4.jpg

The fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair, then
will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit flush? Can
find nothing in Summit or Jegs.

Thanks for any help!

Duke
B382002037

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Mon Apr  4 17:07:50 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 18:07:50 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>
References: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4CC5E9472AFD426289CFC4D2404A4DF1@DellD4700>
	<000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7A8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Hi Duke,
You might have to get a pair of NPT taps, 3/8 and 1/2"... then re-thread the
manifold and your adapter until you get the depth of engagement that you want.
Otherwise you'll end you way overtightening things and potentially breaking
something.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Samouce's
> Sent: April 4, 2011 4:32 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
>
> Hello again,
>
> So I have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake manifold
> bolted down, they arrive and are completely the wrong size.
>
> I run down to the auto parts store and get some that fit (should have
> done
> that in the first place).
>
> Here is my problem, they will not thread flush with the manifold.  The
> adapter for the water temp sensor has to be fully seated for the sensor
> to
> clear the distributer.
>
> The heater return looks just stupid.
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-
> 4.jpg
>
> The fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair,
> then
> will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit
> flush? Can
> find nothing in Summit or Jegs.
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Mon Apr  4 17:10:53 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 18:10:53 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7A8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4CC5E9472AFD426289CFC4D2404A4DF1@DellD4700>
	<000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7A8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <001001cbf31d$8c099330$a41cb990$@rr.com>

Thanks Theo,

I can easily see destroying my manifold doing that myself.  I would take it
to a machine shop for that.  It would be so much easier just to have a
proper fitting adapters.

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit at dynastream.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 6:08 PM
To: Samouce's; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.

Hi Duke,
You might have to get a pair of NPT taps, 3/8 and 1/2"... then re-thread the
manifold and your adapter until you get the depth of engagement that you
want. Otherwise you'll end you way overtightening things and potentially
breaking something.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Samouce's
> Sent: April 4, 2011 4:32 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
>
> Hello again,
>
> So I have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake manifold
> bolted down, they arrive and are completely the wrong size.
>
> I run down to the auto parts store and get some that fit (should have
> done
> that in the first place).
>
> Here is my problem, they will not thread flush with the manifold.  The
> adapter for the water temp sensor has to be fully seated for the sensor
> to
> clear the distributer.
>
> The heater return looks just stupid.
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-
> 4.jpg
>
> The fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair,
> then
> will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit
> flush? Can
> find nothing in Summit or Jegs.
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this
e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in
error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Mon Apr  4 17:20:06 2011
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary Winblad)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 23:20:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimJ98+=acvjReoxWCs7j56mafNKgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1565360149.219184.1301959206430.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Michael,


I use Autometer sender #2254

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2254/

Gary



----- Original Message -----
From: michael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Sent: Mon, 04 Apr 2011 22:34:25 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy

Gary,

What part number sender are you using?

On 04/04/2011, Gary Winblad  wrote:
> I beg to differ.
> Perhaps you bought the wrong Autometer sender, they do have several
> types.
> Any given sender and any given gauge will be slightly different but the
> Autometer
> sender is as close as any original type.
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wally Menke 
> To: rfraser at bluefrog.com, 'James Lindner' ,
> tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Mon, 04 Apr 2011 11:48:13 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Temp Gauge Accuracy
>
> I can conclusively say that the Autometer sensor does not work accurately
> with the standard gauge. From memory it reads way too high.
>
> Wally Menke
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Apr  4 18:04:16 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 20:04:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
Message-ID: <bdaf.38a2b20a.3acbb680@aol.com>

Those should be common plumbing bushings.  HD or Lowes or any  plumbing 
supply place will have them. Bring yours for comparison.  Even  better, ask if 
any of them have a "flush bushing" in the size that you need. A  good 
plumbing supply store might be the best bet for the flush bushing. As the  name 
suggests, the bushing, when installed, will set flush with the deck or  
slightly below or a fraction above....basically flush.
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 4/4/2011 6:59:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wsamouce at kc.rr.com writes:

Hello  again,

So I have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake  manifold
bolted down, they arrive and are completely the wrong  size.

I run down to the auto parts store and get some that fit (should  have done
that in the first place).

Here is my problem, they will  not thread flush with the manifold.  The
adapter for the water temp  sensor has to be fully seated for the sensor to
clear the  distributer.

The heater return looks just  stupid.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-4.jpg

The  fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair,  then
will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit  flush? 
Can
find nothing in Summit or Jegs.

Thanks for any  help!

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Mon Apr  4 19:12:42 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 20:12:42 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <bdaf.38a2b20a.3acbb680@aol.com>
References: <bdaf.38a2b20a.3acbb680@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7CB@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

How deep the bushing goes will still depend on how tight the thread in the
manifold was made. If it was done conservatively then the bushing won't go in
very far.

Duke, buy the taps, as well as a couple of cast-iron and brass 1/2" and 3/8"
female thread fittings. Then you can practice on those and when you're
comfortable with the process, go and do the manifold. Just don't forget to use
a suitable thread cutting fluid. The cast aluminum will cut a lot easier than
either the brass or the cast iron.

Cheers,
Theo



> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CoolVT at aol.com
> Sent: April 4, 2011 6:04 PM
> To: wsamouce at kc.rr.com; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
>
> Those should be common plumbing bushings.  HD or Lowes or any  plumbing
> supply place will have them. Bring yours for comparison.  Even  better,
> ask if
> any of them have a "flush bushing" in the size that you need. A  good
> plumbing supply store might be the best bet for the flush bushing. As
> the  name
> suggests, the bushing, when installed, will set flush with the deck or
> slightly below or a fraction above....basically flush.
> Mark
>
>
> In a message dated 4/4/2011 6:59:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> wsamouce at kc.rr.com writes:
>
> Hello  again,
>
> So I have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake
> manifold
> bolted down, they arrive and are completely the wrong  size.
>
> I run down to the auto parts store and get some that fit (should  have
> done
> that in the first place).
>
> Here is my problem, they will  not thread flush with the manifold.  The
> adapter for the water temp  sensor has to be fully seated for the
> sensor to
> clear the  distributer.
>
> The heater return looks just  stupid.
>
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-
> 4.jpg
>
> The  fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair,
> then
> will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit
> flush?
> Can
> find nothing in Summit or Jegs.
>
> Thanks for any  help!
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Mon Apr  4 19:20:25 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 20:20:25 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7CB@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <bdaf.38a2b20a.3acbb680@aol.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7CB@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <000301cbf32f$a4d33a30$ee79ae90$@rr.com>

Thanks Theo and all others with similar recommendations,

I'll check with my machine shop guy and see if he want silly money to do it.
If so, I will buy the taps and do it myself.

On a better note - Just got the shift box and linkage back from Bill Heeley
(301 774 6710), he did a great job for just $125.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/009-1.jpg

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit at dynastream.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 8:13 PM
To: CoolVT at aol.com; wsamouce at kc.rr.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.

How deep the bushing goes will still depend on how tight the thread in the
manifold was made. If it was done conservatively then the bushing won't go
in very far.

Duke, buy the taps, as well as a couple of cast-iron and brass 1/2" and 3/8"
female thread fittings. Then you can practice on those and when you're
comfortable with the process, go and do the manifold. Just don't forget to
use a suitable thread cutting fluid. The cast aluminum will cut a lot easier
than either the brass or the cast iron.

Cheers,
Theo

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Mon Apr  4 20:40:47 2011
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 22:40:47 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <000301cbf32f$a4d33a30$ee79ae90$@rr.com>
References: <bdaf.38a2b20a.3acbb680@aol.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7CB@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<000301cbf32f$a4d33a30$ee79ae90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinQ8JDhA-BqyDgzqLP4U=rLE24y4Q@mail.gmail.com>

if your going to the plumbing supply store see if they have an L shaped what
is called a "street fitting" in the sizes youneed.
    Just a thought
      Jeff

On Mon, Apr 4, 2011 at 9:20 PM, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

> Thanks Theo and all others with similar recommendations,
>
> I'll check with my machine shop guy and see if he want silly money to do
> it.
> If so, I will buy the taps and do it myself.
>
> On a better note - Just got the shift box and linkage back from Bill Heeley
> (301 774 6710), he did a great job for just $125.
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/009-1.jpg
>
> Duke
> B382002037
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit at dynastream.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 8:13 PM
> To: CoolVT at aol.com; wsamouce at kc.rr.com; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
>
> How deep the bushing goes will still depend on how tight the thread in the
> manifold was made. If it was done conservatively then the bushing won't go
> in very far.
>
> Duke, buy the taps, as well as a couple of cast-iron and brass 1/2" and
> 3/8"
> female thread fittings. Then you can practice on those and when you're
> comfortable with the process, go and do the manifold. Just don't forget to
> use a suitable thread cutting fluid. The cast aluminum will cut a lot
> easier
> than either the brass or the cast iron.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Mon Apr  4 22:03:58 2011
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 23:03:58 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>
References: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com><4CC5E9472AFD426289CFC4D2404A4DF1@DellD4700>
	<000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <6C7E3CCD99524A9E988570D6B8461C13@jerry>

Pipe fittings aren't designed to sit flush when installed.  Now if you
wanted it to set down more flush you have to use the proper pipe tap to make
the hole a little bigger so the fitting screws down further. This can be a
very slippery slope, because pipe connections are tapered and if you start
going deeper you take the chance of going too deep then your fitting will
never seal. The only option then is to start over with the next larger size
pipe size.  If you are familiar with pipe tapes you know there is a BIG
difference in the sizes, going from 1/8 to 1/4 to 3/8 to 1/2 there are big
jumps in the sizes.

Any time I have ever seen a pipe joint flush is because someone has done a
very bad job of tapping the hole, going far too deep. The very principal of
a pipe joint is the taper effect where the deeper the fitting goes the
tighter it gets.

Now, it's true that if you were very "careful" and taped it just the right
depth, so that when the fitting got to the tightest point and you were flush
it would work. But I'll say it again they aren't design to be flush like
something that has straight threads.

Also be sure to use "pipe joint compound" on the threads available at
pluming supply stores made by Oatey Great White with Teflon (TPFE).

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 5:32 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.

Hello again,

So I have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake manifold
bolted down, they arrive and are completely the wrong size.

I run down to the auto parts store and get some that fit (should have done
that in the first place).

Here is my problem, they will not thread flush with the manifold.  The
adapter for the water temp sensor has to be fully seated for the sensor to
clear the distributer.

The heater return looks just stupid.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-4.jpg

The fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair, then
will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit flush? Can
find nothing in Summit or Jegs.

Thanks for any help!

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  4 23:20:37 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 22:20:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
Message-ID: <711364.12137.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The right tap will fix your problem. You might also use a metal sealant to
insure it never leaks but it will also never be removable. You could try
liquid silicone pipe sealer or regular pipe dope, they may never leak- if it
does, than you could go to the metal type sealer.I cant remember the name but
all parts stores carry it.   

 NPT Bottoming Pipe Taps

HIGH SPEED STEEL - GROUND THREAD

MADE IN THE USA BY REIFF & NESTOR



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

NPT threads require the use of a sealant to ensure a tight seal.
Normally used for pipefittings and couplings. The nominal size of the tap is
that of the pipefitting and not the actual size of the tap
Bottoming chamfer used mostly for tapping blind holes requiring full threads
near the bottom of the hole.
Click here to chat with sales


NPT Ground Thread Regular Bottom
(Picture may not be an exact match)


Tap Size Flutes Part Number Price Qty 1-11 Price Qty 12+ Order Quantity
1/16-27 4 RFN-46101 $ 16.47 $ 14.98       
1/8-27 4 RFN-46105 $ 16.47 $ 14.98       
1/4-18 4 RFN-46111 $ 18.48 $ 16.82       
3/8-18 4 RFN-46117 $ 23.62 $ 21.49       
The Taps below start qty discounts at three pieces.
Tap Size Flutes Part Number Price Qty 1-2 Price Qty 3+ Order Quantity
1/2-14 4 RFN-46123 $ 39.31 $ 35.77       
3/4-14 5 RFN-46130 $ 57.00 $ 51.88       
The Taps below come standard in single pieces
Tap Size Flutes Part Number Price Order Quantity
1-11 1/2 5 RFN-46133 $ 73.61       
1 1/4-11 1/2 5 RFN-46137 $104.78       
1 1/2-11 1/2 7 RFN-46139 $141.57       
2-11 1/2 7 RFN-46145 $191.92       


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

HOME       BROWSE CATALOG       ONLINE RESOURCES       LINKS       HELP


Customer Service 1-877-848-8665
General Information:info at discount-tools.com
Sales Questions or Quotes:sales at discount-tools.com
 


--- On Mon, 4/4/11, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net> wrote:

> From: Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
> To: "'Samouce's'" <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>, tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Monday, April 4, 2011, 11:03 PM
> Pipe fittings aren't designed to sit
> flush when installed.  Now if you
> wanted it to set down more flush you have to use the proper
> pipe tap to make
> the hole a little bigger so the fitting screws down
> further. This can be a
> very slippery slope, because pipe connections are tapered
> and if you start
> going deeper you take the chance of going too deep then
> your fitting will
> never seal. The only option then is to start over with the
> next larger size
> pipe size.  If you are familiar with pipe tapes you
> know there is a BIG
> difference in the sizes, going from 1/8 to 1/4 to 3/8 to
> 1/2 there are big
> jumps in the sizes.
>
> Any time I have ever seen a pipe joint flush is because
> someone has done a
> very bad job of tapping the hole, going far too deep. The
> very principal of
> a pipe joint is the taper effect where the deeper the
> fitting goes the
> tighter it gets.
>
> Now, it's true that if you were very "careful" and taped it
> just the right
> depth, so that when the fitting got to the tightest point
> and you were flush
> it would work. But I'll say it again they aren't design to
> be flush like
> something that has straight threads.
>
> Also be sure to use "pipe joint compound" on the threads
> available at
> pluming supply stores made by Oatey Great White with Teflon
> (TPFE).
>
> Jerry Christopherson
> 9473187
>
>  

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  4 23:38:33 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2011 22:38:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <001001cbf31d$8c099330$a41cb990$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <684168.30517.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

 I can easily see destroying my manifold doing that
> myself.  I would take it
> to a machine shop for that.  It would be so much
> easier just to have a
> proper fitting adapters.
>
> Duke
>
Duke if you are going to take it to a machine shop, ask the price to tig weld
the orginal hole and tap it to fit the heater hose fitting. That would do away
with the adaptor completely and the cost prolly isnt much higher than the
other machine work.
TtT

From CoolVT at aol.com  Tue Apr  5 07:04:16 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 09:04:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
Message-ID: <4ded0.100605f6.3acc6d50@aol.com>

Pictures  NPT bushings...first selection.... normal shouldered  bushings, 
scan down to 2nd selection "face" or "flush" bushings.   
_http://www.fastfittings.com/brass-bushing_ (http://www.fastfittings.com/brass-bushing) . 
 
With talk of using pipe dope or teflon to seal.....does the sender have to  
be grounded?  If so, will the sealant interfere with proper electrical  
contact?  I don't think I used any sealant on mine and have no leaks.   
Plumbing requires sealant because it's under 40-100 psi. Car's cooling is pretty  
low pressure.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 4/5/2011 12:29:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net writes:

Pipe  fittings aren't designed to sit flush when installed.  Now if  you
wanted it to set down more flush you have to use the proper pipe tap to  
make
the hole a little bigger so the fitting screws down further. This can  be a
very slippery slope, because pipe connections are tapered and if you  start
going deeper you take the chance of going too deep then your fitting  will
never seal. The only option then is to start over with the next larger  size
pipe size.  If you are familiar with pipe tapes you know there is  a BIG
difference in the sizes, going from 1/8 to 1/4 to 3/8 to 1/2 there  are big
jumps in the sizes.

Any time I have ever seen a pipe joint  flush is because someone has done a
very bad job of tapping the hole, going  far too deep. The very principal of
a pipe joint is the taper effect where  the deeper the fitting goes the
tighter it gets.

Now, it's true that  if you were very "careful" and taped it just the right
depth, so that when  the fitting got to the tightest point and you were 
flush
it would work. But  I'll say it again they aren't design to be flush like
something that has  straight threads.

Also be sure to use "pipe joint compound" on the  threads available at
pluming supply stores made by Oatey Great White with  Teflon (TPFE).

Jerry Christopherson
9473187



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent:  Monday, April 04, 2011 5:32 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject:  [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.

Hello again,

So I  have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake manifold
bolted  down, they arrive and are completely the wrong size.

I run down to the  auto parts store and get some that fit (should have done
that in the first  place).

Here is my problem, they will not thread flush with the  manifold.  The
adapter for the water temp sensor has to be fully  seated for the sensor to
clear the distributer.

The heater return  looks just  stupid.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-4.jpg

The  fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair,  then
will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit  flush? 
Can
find nothing in Summit or Jegs.

Thanks for any  help!

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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_______________________________________________
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From wseay at embarqmail.com  Tue Apr  5 09:48:59 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 11:48:59 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.
In-Reply-To: <000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>
References: <BANLkTi=op6QA-q0W8Y44oJ_2YnZE75vH9w@mail.gmail.com>
	<4CC5E9472AFD426289CFC4D2404A4DF1@DellD4700>
	<000001cbf318$16c7ab20$44570160$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbf3a8$fb2ae9e0$f180bda0$@com>

Duke,

The solution for the temp sending unit is to use a thread insert made by E-Z
Lok.  You can find them at www.ezlok.com.  Their part#  329-10F, is 7/8-9 on the
outside and 5/8-18 on the inside.  I am using the insert on my F4B and you can
hardly tell that the insert is there below the (stock) temp sending unit.  I
actually got my insert for free from E-Z Lok as a sample.  Can't beat that
price.  Installation of the insert requires drilling out the old threads with a
49/64" drill and tapping to 7/8-9.  Your machine shop should be able to do that
for you.  Check out E-Z Lok's other adapters too.  They probably have a solution
for your other adapter problem too.

-Will 382001570

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2011 6:32 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters....@ wits end.

Hello again,

So I have been waiting on two adapters so I can get the intake manifold
bolted down, they arrive and are completely the wrong size.

I run down to the auto parts store and get some that fit (should have done
that in the first place).

Here is my problem, they will not thread flush with the manifold.  The
adapter for the water temp sensor has to be fully seated for the sensor to
clear the distributer.

The heater return looks just stupid.

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/006-4.jpg

The fittings are NPT 3/8 X 1/8 and 1/2 X 3/8.  Due to the NPT flair, then
will not screw in all the way.  Who makes a fitting that will fit flush? Can
find nothing in Summit or Jegs.

Thanks for any help!

Duke
B382002037

From mark.rense at ge.com  Fri Apr  8 07:26:42 2011
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light))
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 09:26:42 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

OK, the last message I received was Tuesday noon, is the list down or
don't y'all love anymore?

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Apr  8 07:53:51 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 09:53:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <CCE20B0CC8C8455B9223348DCEFCC36D@ronpc1>

Mark
	It looks and feels like spring outside finally.   I want to be
outside not on the computer.

Yes the list has been slow this week.

Everybody doing yard work or tuning up your Tiger?

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2011 9:27 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?


OK, the last message I received was Tuesday noon, is the list down or don't
y'all love anymore? _______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3557 - Release Date: 04/08/11
06:34:00

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Fri Apr  8 08:05:47 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 09:05:47 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
References: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <004701cbf5f6$1096f680$31c4e380$@com>

Im here in oklahoma reading you loud and clear...think its just quiet...

Maybe everyone is out driving!!!!!

Cullen 
1452



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2011 8:27 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?

OK, the last message I received was Tuesday noon, is the list down or
don't y'all love anymore?
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Apr  8 08:25:08 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 09:25:08 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
References: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE004A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

It's up... By way of news, my Flaming River rack arrived yesterday so I'll be
doing some fabrication in the next few weeks.

Got me a little scratch-start TIG welder. Works great so far - no more booger
welds for me!

And a question: Who sells the best aluminum Tiger radiator these days?

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
> Sent: April 8, 2011 7:27 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
>
> OK, the last message I received was Tuesday noon, is the list down or
> don't y'all love anymore?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From barncobob at aol.com  Fri Apr  8 08:26:50 2011
From: barncobob at aol.com (barncobob)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 10:26:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] car is in shop
Message-ID: <8CDC4102263F463-600-17E4D@webmail-m016.sysops.aol.com>

cant drive for awhile. i am getting a complete brake makeover and am putting
back 2.88 r&p. i will have a set of 3.31s along with a posi available soon if
anyones interested.

From jd.sencindiver at gmail.com  Fri Apr  8 08:27:48 2011
From: jd.sencindiver at gmail.com (Jim Sencindiver)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 10:27:48 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
In-Reply-To: <CCE20B0CC8C8455B9223348DCEFCC36D@ronpc1>
References: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<CCE20B0CC8C8455B9223348DCEFCC36D@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=i_owxakMBb22ah2RzjvGna3XHmg@mail.gmail.com>

Yesterday it was sunny and in the mid 70s here in Virginia, so after I got
home from work, I got the Tiger out for about 45 minutes of just driving
around the Fredericksburg area.  Got lots of thumbs ups at stoplights and
questions from pedestrians (cool car, what is it?)

Keep on Tigering!

Jim Sencindiver

B382100451/TAC 448
http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp


On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 9:53 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Mark
>        It looks and feels like spring outside finally.   I want to be
> outside not on the computer.
>
> Yes the list has been slow this week.
>
> Everybody doing yard work or tuning up your Tiger?
>
> Ron Fraser

From mark.rense at ge.com  Fri Apr  8 08:28:20 2011
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light))
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 10:28:20 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE004A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888B57@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE004A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888C94@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

I was just wondering, I miss our daily "Duke" report...

-----Original Message-----
From: Smit, Theo [mailto:Theo.Smit at dynastream.com]
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2011 10:25 AM
To: Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light); tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: List Down?

It's up... By way of news, my Flaming River rack arrived yesterday so
I'll be doing some fabrication in the next few weeks.

Got me a little scratch-start TIG welder. Works great so far - no more
booger welds for me!

And a question: Who sells the best aluminum Tiger radiator these days?

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
> Sent: April 8, 2011 7:27 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
>
> OK, the last message I received was Tuesday noon, is the list down or
> don't y'all love anymore?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for
the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended
recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or
use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From awtiger at cox.net  Fri Apr  8 08:50:27 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 10:50:27 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
In-Reply-To: <CCE20B0CC8C8455B9223348DCEFCC36D@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <20110408105028.VDLS3.44215.imail@eastrmwml38>

I don't know about you guys, but I'm mixing yard work with Tigering.  I've hooked a big brush hog mower to the back of my Tiger and I can now mow my acre in under five minutes!!!

Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

----  Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote: 
> 
> Everybody doing yard work or tuning up your Tiger?
> 
> Ron Fraser

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Apr  8 09:10:19 2011
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary Winblad)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 15:10:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Flaming River rack
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE004A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <1059563223.424945.1302275419972.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Theo,

Tell us more about your Flaming River rack project.

Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Theo Smit <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
To: Mark Rense (GE, Appl & Light) <mark.rense at ge.com>, tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 08 Apr 2011 14:25:08 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] List Down?

It's up... By way of news, my Flaming River rack arrived yesterday so I'll be
doing some fabrication in the next few weeks.


Cheers,
Theo

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  8 09:11:21 2011
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 08:11:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?
Message-ID: <100360.34392.qm@web121414.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

On vacation, wishing I had my tiger here in south Florida.  And a babysitter!

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 8, 2011, at 10:05 AM, Cullen McCann <clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com> wrote:

Im here in oklahoma reading you loud and clear...think its just quiet...

Maybe everyone is out driving!!!!!

Cullen 
1452



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light)
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2011 8:27 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] List Down?

OK, the last message I received was Tuesday noon, is the list down or
don't y'all love anymore?
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Apr  8 09:23:44 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 10:23:44 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] "Duke" report
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08888C94@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <20110408152345.YJHC3.144939.root@hrndva-web16-z01>

---- "Rense wrote: 
> I was just wondering, I miss our daily "Duke" report...
> 


Here ya go - 

Carburation

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/008-3.jpgSo...how do I feed the beast? I will start with the Autolite 4100 (1.08) I had on the 260 (bottom).  I know it is tuned correctly and the engine should start right up.  I will break in the engine on the engine dyno with this carb.

Then the competition starts. 

All carb calculators (even at 90% VE) I have checked call for a carb less than 600 CFM. I refuse to over carb this engine. I will know for sure when I see the AFRs for both carbs @ 6200 RPM. 

1. Autolite 4100 (1.12) that the factory states is 600 CFM (top right).  It is actually around 550 CFM.  This carb was built for the 347 by a 4100 expert with custom sized jets and boosters.  It has vacuum secondaries and a manual choke.

2. Holley 600 CFM double pumper (top left).  I just rebuilt this carb and everything is stock (jets and power valve).  It has manual secondaries and choke.

I will dyno the engine with the two carbs back to back to see which yields the most HP.  Then once the engine is in the car, check to see which one has better driveability.

Different note:

Quick Time could not provide me a spacer for the scatter shield that would work with the 4 11/16 front bearing retainer (FBR) on the HEHE.  I bought thee larger "8 bolt case" FBR and all is good with the universe now. 

I should also pick up the intake manifold from the machine shop today.  I will post pics once I get it and show you the fix we came up with.

The (stinkin) hand made oil pan should be here today....only took 9 weeks.

Duke
B382002037

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Apr  8 09:28:33 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 10:28:33 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Flaming River rack
In-Reply-To: <1059563223.424945.1302275419972.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE004A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<1059563223.424945.1302275419972.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE009F@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Hi Gary,
The local autocross tech inspectors kept complaining about a bit of play in the right-front suspension, and it was not the balljoints or A-arm bushingsb& so I popped off the steering arm joints and the right rack end flopped down while the left one had enough preload on the inboard spherical joint to keep itself in the air. Tom Hall says this is an indication that the Belleville tension washer in the inboard rack end has failed. I took the rack out, removed the boots, and found that the rack had been brepairedb sometime in the past; rather than relying on just the crimps on the spherical ends to keep things in place, theybd welded the sheetmetal parts to the rack rod. The weld beads then smashed repeatedly into the bronze bushing on the right side (basically every time the steering was turned to left-lock) and cracked the internal rack bushing. So things are probably repairable but with a lot of work.

I decided that what I wanted was a little bit quicker steering ratio, and a modern rack assembly. The FR Cobra/MGB rack has both of those things, but the mounts are located differently from the Tiger rack, so Ibll have to rework the mounts on the crossmember, as well as setting up a new intermediate shaft because the FR rack has a longer pinion shaft. I talked to FR about doing a custom rack but they donbt do that for the Cobra/MGB assembly b only for the Mustang II based rack.

Owain Lloyd says that you can get newly made Midget racks from South America. This may be an easier route; I already had the FR rack on order so Ibm going this way unless it turns out to require really strange U-joint angles. I did a bit more searching and found that Quaife apparently makes custom racks but I donbt know at what priceb& it would be nice for someone to actually make a drop-in rack so that you wouldnbt have to be modifying stuff to get a proper and modern rack.

Ibll try and take pictures as things go together.
Cheers,
Theo

From: Gary Winblad [mailto:garywinblad at comcast.net]
Sent: April 8, 2011 9:10 AM
To: Smit, Theo
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Flaming River rack

Hi Theo,

Tell us more about your Flaming River rack project.

Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Theo Smit <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
To: Mark Rense (GE, Appl & Light) <mark.rense at ge.com>, tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 08 Apr 2011 14:25:08 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] List Down?

It's up... By way of news, my Flaming River rack arrived yesterday so I'll be
doing some fabrication in the next few weeks.


Cheers,
Theo

________________________________
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From MACHWIL at aol.com  Fri Apr  8 13:44:07 2011
From: MACHWIL at aol.com (MACHWIL at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 15:44:07 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1f912.e03309f.3ad0bf87@aol.com>

This note goes to anyone who lives in SoCal to remind him or her CAT club  
has a fix-it day tomorrow.
 
As usual this is located at Bud Williams (me) shop. There should be plenty  
of brains and some brawn to take care of most small problems. I know 
everyone's'  Tiger as a-ok so just join us anyway.
 
There  will be a regular meeting after the fix-in. Time is 8 AM @ Buds  
shop, corner of Red Gum St. and Coronado in Anaheim. 714-630-5003 for  info.
 
This is also a TAC event should anyone need it. I'll be at the above phone  
# or the answering machine should anyone have questions. Feel free to  call 
anytime.
 
Bud (0490)  

From sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net  Fri Apr  8 16:11:23 2011
From: sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net (Paul R Sheahan)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 15:11:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Florida TAC Event
Message-ID: <984112.17068.qm@web83716.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Tiger Owners,
      Don't forget that tomorrow is the day for the Florida TAC Event hosted
by Carole and Steve Halbrook at their home at 2857 Timber Knoll Drive in
Valrico, Florida.  If you need your car TAC'd or you just want to drop by,
please feel free to come to the event.  We will start at 10:30am and will go
to lunch as a group after the event.
      If you need additional information, call me on my cell phone at
704-564-3831.  I hope to see you there. 

Paul
Paul R Sheahan

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Apr  8 18:36:08 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 19:36:08 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Stinkin NPT adapters.....THE FIX!
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A8B0@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <4ded0.100605f6.3acc6d50@aol.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A7D6@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<B10AB10CAD1E4744B561225AE9150709@jerry>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2F4A8B0@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <000101cbf64e$1ec1f220$5c45d660$@rr.com>

First of all,

Thanks to all of you that sent along you recommendations for the fix.  I
took all recommendations to my machine shop guy and we brainstormed and came
up with the following fix - 

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/010-1.jpg

http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/011.jpg

The coolant temp sensor has been inserted into a 3/8 NPT plug. The heater
return uses a new fitting that is 1/2 NPT that has been mounted flush.  I
also used epoxy when installing the coolant adapter, it won't leak or EVER
come out.  I was charged $45 for the work.

Check my FB album - I received the oil pan today and it is installed.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2034409&id=1402147496&l=33c2567b45

Duke
B382002037

From rsdslp at juno.com  Fri Apr  8 19:35:53 2011
From: rsdslp at juno.com (rsdslp at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 01:35:53 GMT
Subject: [Tigers] Stumbling issue
Message-ID: <20110408.183553.2726.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com>

Vacuum leak

____________________________________________________________
SHOCKING: Apple iPad for $24.87
TODAY ONLY: Auction site to give away 1,000 iPads for $24.87!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d9fb856ca8195f7dc1st04duc

From hubrick at gmail.com  Sat Apr  9 16:24:01 2011
From: hubrick at gmail.com (Rick Huber)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 17:24:01 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?
Message-ID: <BANLkTikKL5VDMqCsaprOHJQFMeJrb5nNpw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Tiger Owners,
I have stumbled upon a basket case Mark I Tiger that I have the opportunity
to buy. It spent its first few years in New York and Pennsylvania where it
was exposed to salty roads before moving to California. The windshield was
pulled off in 1984 and it has sat since then, the interior has been exposed
to the elements, the bottom of the fenders and door on the one side of the
car I can access are full of rot, and curling up my fingers below them
reveals a holy crumbly rocker panel.  It has original paint, and except for
a little ding in the back, it's a straight car.The owner is a 2nd owner
who's had it since 66. I wrote down the VIN to look it up.  I looked at the
listing of registered Tigers and it's not on the list, but the number fits
neatly in the online list.  The owner is happy to sell it cheaply to have
someone restore it, but it seems to me getting it free may be too expensive
considering it's condition.  I believe it to be an authentic Tiger based on
the guy's ownership story.  Any idea what it might be worth in the condition
it's in?  It seems to me if I really want a Tiger, I'd be much better off
buying the one for sale in Hemmings for $22,500.  Any opinions?
Cheers,
Rick

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Apr  9 17:17:07 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 18:17:07 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikKL5VDMqCsaprOHJQFMeJrb5nNpw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikKL5VDMqCsaprOHJQFMeJrb5nNpw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901cbf70c$3f154d60$bd3fe820$@rr.com>

$3-5K

Expect to spend $35K get it to a $25K Tiger level.

Duke
382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rick Huber
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2011 5:24 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?

Hello Tiger Owners,
I have stumbled upon a basket case Mark I Tiger that I have the opportunity
to buy. It spent its first few years in New York and Pennsylvania where it
was exposed to salty roads before moving to California. The windshield was
pulled off in 1984 and it has sat since then, the interior has been exposed
to the elements, the bottom of the fenders and door on the one side of the
car I can access are full of rot, and curling up my fingers below them
reveals a holy crumbly rocker panel.  It has original paint, and except for
a little ding in the back, it's a straight car.The owner is a 2nd owner
who's had it since 66. I wrote down the VIN to look it up.  I looked at the
listing of registered Tigers and it's not on the list, but the number fits
neatly in the online list.  The owner is happy to sell it cheaply to have
someone restore it, but it seems to me getting it free may be too expensive
considering it's condition.  I believe it to be an authentic Tiger based on
the guy's ownership story.  Any idea what it might be worth in the condition
it's in?  It seems to me if I really want a Tiger, I'd be much better off
buying the one for sale in Hemmings for $22,500.  Any opinions?
Cheers,
Rick
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sat Apr  9 17:27:57 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 19:27:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?
Message-ID: <8470c.65d43983.3ad2457d@aol.com>

You definitely wouldn't be able to restore it for $22,500.
 
 
In a message dated 4/9/2011 6:24:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
hubrick at gmail.com writes:

Hello  Tiger Owners,
I have stumbled upon a basket case Mark I Tiger that I have  the opportunity
to buy. It spent its first few years in New York and  Pennsylvania where it
was exposed to salty roads before moving to  California. The windshield was
pulled off in 1984 and it has sat since  then, the interior has been exposed
to the elements, the bottom of the  fenders and door on the one side of the
car I can access are full of rot,  and curling up my fingers below them
reveals a holy crumbly rocker  panel.  It has original paint, and except for
a little ding in the  back, it's a straight car.The owner is a 2nd owner
who's had it since 66. I  wrote down the VIN to look it up.  I looked at the
listing of  registered Tigers and it's not on the list, but the number fits
neatly in  the online list.  The owner is happy to sell it cheaply to  have
someone restore it, but it seems to me getting it free may be too  expensive
considering it's condition.  I believe it to be an authentic  Tiger based on
the guy's ownership story.  Any idea what it might be  worth in the 
condition
it's in?  It seems to me if I really want a  Tiger, I'd be much better off
buying the one for sale in Hemmings for  $22,500.  Any  opinions?
Cheers,
Rick
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Sat Apr  9 19:11:46 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Clarkwgriswold)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 20:11:46 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?
In-Reply-To: <8470c.65d43983.3ad2457d@aol.com>
References: <8470c.65d43983.3ad2457d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7204D01E-8047-4687-9F1B-CEB7884CBE27@gmail.com>

IMO, unless you do ALL your own work, and shop around for serious deals on
parts and stuff... You can almost never build a tiger or anything else for
less than it's worth... But then again, for alot if us, that's not why we do
it right? But on the other hand... Coming up with a few thousand at a time
once every couple of months is easier for some than coming up with 35 grand
all at once...

I agree, for that tigers condition, 3 to 5 grand. Of you can work metal, don't
let the rust scare you, it's no different than changing brakes... Take out the
bad, put in the good.  And all cars rust, just some more than others or
sooner...

Cullen
1452 lrofe


Sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 9, 2011, at 6:27 PM, CoolVT at aol.com wrote:

> You definitely wouldn't be able to restore it for $22,500.
>
>
> In a message dated 4/9/2011 6:24:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> hubrick at gmail.com writes:
>
> Hello  Tiger Owners,
> I have stumbled upon a basket case Mark I Tiger that I have  the
opportunity
> to buy. It spent its first few years in New York and  Pennsylvania where it
> was exposed to salty roads before moving to  California. The windshield was
> pulled off in 1984 and it has sat since  then, the interior has been
exposed
> to the elements, the bottom of the  fenders and door on the one side of the
> car I can access are full of rot,  and curling up my fingers below them
> reveals a holy crumbly rocker  panel.  It has original paint, and except
for
> a little ding in the  back, it's a straight car.The owner is a 2nd owner
> who's had it since 66. I  wrote down the VIN to look it up.  I looked at
the
> listing of  registered Tigers and it's not on the list, but the number fits
> neatly in  the online list.  The owner is happy to sell it cheaply to  have
> someone restore it, but it seems to me getting it free may be too
expensive
> considering it's condition.  I believe it to be an authentic  Tiger based
on
> the guy's ownership story.  Any idea what it might be  worth in the
> condition
> it's in?  It seems to me if I really want a  Tiger, I'd be much better off
> buying the one for sale in Hemmings for  $22,500.  Any  opinions?
> Cheers,
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com

From jliny5 at cox.net  Sat Apr  9 19:12:20 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 21:12:20 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikKL5VDMqCsaprOHJQFMeJrb5nNpw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTikKL5VDMqCsaprOHJQFMeJrb5nNpw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A699D2615F7D445399CBAC59FA6B41A2@JPC>

Hi Rick

The list does not allow photos so I am responding directly to you so I can 
give you a couple of photos that might add perspective.

The first photo is my car before restoration...and from the description of 
your candidate mine seems to have been in a whole lot better shape when it 
started. The previous owner told me it was relatively rust free.

The second photo is the car finished in its original color (2005).

Now to get there the PO spent over 25k on the body work alone...and that was 
in 2000. He spent almost as much on parts and did the mechanical work 
himself. If he had someone do the work it would be twice that...maybe more.

I can tell you that when I bought it from the PO last year I did not pay 
that much.

Unless you are really into restoring cars, I would but as much car as your 
pocketbook can afford.

Jim Lindner

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Huber" <hubrick at gmail.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2011 6:24 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?


> Hello Tiger Owners,
> I have stumbled upon a basket case Mark I Tiger that I have the 
> opportunity
> to buy. It spent its first few years in New York and Pennsylvania where it
> was exposed to salty roads before moving to California. The windshield was
> pulled off in 1984 and it has sat since then, the interior has been 
> exposed
> to the elements, the bottom of the fenders and door on the one side of the
> car I can access are full of rot, and curling up my fingers below them
> reveals a holy crumbly rocker panel.  It has original paint, and except 
> for
> a little ding in the back, it's a straight car.The owner is a 2nd owner
> who's had it since 66. I wrote down the VIN to look it up.  I looked at 
> the
> listing of registered Tigers and it's not on the list, but the number fits
> neatly in the online list.  The owner is happy to sell it cheaply to have
> someone restore it, but it seems to me getting it free may be too 
> expensive
> considering it's condition.  I believe it to be an authentic Tiger based 
> on
> the guy's ownership story.  Any idea what it might be worth in the 
> condition
> it's in?  It seems to me if I really want a Tiger, I'd be much better off
> buying the one for sale in Hemmings for $22,500.  Any opinions?
> Cheers,
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Top.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TE AE United 2005.jpg]

From arado7 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 10 04:42:04 2011
From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 03:42:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?
In-Reply-To: <7204D01E-8047-4687-9F1B-CEB7884CBE27@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <326215.22483.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My cars don't rust including my rust free Tiger. I use Waxoyl from England@
Moss Motors. I also use it on tools,  guns and leather.  Gary Moore B9472283

--- On Sun, 4/10/11, Clarkwgriswold <clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Clarkwgriswold <clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Should I buy a Tiger?
To: "CoolVT at aol.com" <CoolVT at aol.com>
Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 10, 2011, 1:11 AM

IMO, unless you do ALL your own work, and shop around for serious deals on
parts and stuff... You can almost never build a tiger or anything else for
less than it's worth... But then again, for alot if us, that's not why we do
it right? But on the other hand... Coming up with a few thousand at a time
once every couple of months is easier for some than coming up with 35 grand
all at once...

I agree, for that tigers condition, 3 to 5 grand. Of you can work metal,
don't
let the rust scare you, it's no different than changing brakes... Take out
the
bad, put in the good.  And all cars rust, just some more than others or
sooner...

Cullen
1452 lrofe


Sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 9, 2011, at 6:27 PM, CoolVT at aol.com wrote:

> You definitely wouldn't be able to restore it for $22,500.
>
>
> In a message dated 4/9/2011 6:24:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> hubrick at gmail.com writes:
>
> Hello  Tiger Owners,
> I have stumbled upon a basket case Mark I Tiger that I have  the
opportunity
> to buy. It spent its first few years in New York and  Pennsylvania where it
> was exposed to salty roads before moving to  California. The windshield was
> pulled off in 1984 and it has sat since  then, the interior has been
exposed
> to the elements, the bottom of the  fenders and door on the one side of the
> car I can access are full of rot,  and curling up my fingers below them
> reveals a holy crumbly rocker  panel.  It has original paint, and except
for
> a little ding in the  back, it's a straight car.The owner is a 2nd owner
> who's had it since 66. I  wrote down the VIN to look it up.  I looked at
the
> listing of  registered Tigers and it's not on the list, but the number fits
> neatly in  the online list.  The owner is happy to sell it cheaply to  have
> someone restore it, but it seems to me getting it free may be too
expensive
> considering it's condition.  I believe it to be an authentic  Tiger based
on
> the guy's ownership story.  Any idea what it might be  worth in the
> condition
> it's in?  It seems to me if I really want a  Tiger, I'd be much better off
> buying the one for sale in Hemmings for  $22,500.  Any  opinions?
> Cheers,
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7 at sbcglobal.net

From rande at thecia.net  Sun Apr 10 11:12:27 2011
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 13:12:27 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger article
Message-ID: <4da1e4fb.6f68.0@thecia.net>

I didn't see this listed earlier, but the April 2011 issue of the UK mag Thoroughbred
& Classic Cars features a cover story on the Tiger 1 and II. I found it in an
airport news stand

From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net  Sun Apr 10 13:03:08 2011
From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 15:03:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Which Tiger to buy?
Message-ID: <CC63C96EF1F6439FB25D089DC58A14CF@jeffnicholsPC>

If its this one from Hemmings:
 
 

Description:

SUNBEAM: 1966 Tiger, #B9472094LRXFE, midnight blue, few miles on rebuilt
engine and clutch, brakes redone, tight gearbox, all gauges work,
practically zero rust, straight panels, clean undercarriage, new tires,
battery, starter; Edelbrock intake, four-barrel; new top, carpets,
upholstery (blue), uninstalled; needs outside paint, $22,500; possible
shipping. 843-795-8385, Charleston, SC. $22,500 

 
Then its a no brainer to buy the Hemmings car.  Ask for plenty of photos or
better still, view the car yourself.
 
                                                          Jeff

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 10 16:37:42 2011
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 18:37:42 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Which Tiger to buy?
In-Reply-To: <CC63C96EF1F6439FB25D089DC58A14CF@jeffnicholsPC>
References: <CC63C96EF1F6439FB25D089DC58A14CF@jeffnicholsPC>
Message-ID: <761B61DE-427A-4D5A-9C59-8B753A091998@yahoo.com>

this sounds just like my dark blue with light blue interior, same condition, i
sold it for around the same price the first week i listed it.  good price.  if
its truly very little rust, grab it.  the other car you described, as much as
i would love to see someone save it, and unless youve restored cars before and
really know what youre getting into, i wouldnt touch it.



On Apr 10, 2011, at 3:03 PM, Jeffrey Nichols wrote:

> If its this one from Hemmings:
>
>
>
> Description:
>
> SUNBEAM: 1966 Tiger, #B9472094LRXFE, midnight blue, few miles on rebuilt
> engine and clutch, brakes redone, tight gearbox, all gauges work,
> practically zero rust, straight panels, clean undercarriage, new tires,
> battery, starter; Edelbrock intake, four-barrel; new top, carpets,
> upholstery (blue), uninstalled; needs outside paint, $22,500; possible
> shipping. 843-795-8385, Charleston, SC. $22,500
>
>
> Then its a no brainer to buy the Hemmings car.  Ask for plenty of photos or
> better still, view the car yourself.

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sun Apr 10 17:13:10 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 09:13:10 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Which Tiger to buy?
In-Reply-To: <CC63C96EF1F6439FB25D089DC58A14CF@jeffnicholsPC>
References: <CC63C96EF1F6439FB25D089DC58A14CF@jeffnicholsPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=ruF1MWZFqdDHMFMSqBJ=OOzQ8eA@mail.gmail.com>

I wonder if this is the car i was sent some pics of about 2 months back.
Same location, I think Eric Gebreaut (sp?) had offered it on the SAOCA and
TEAE boards on behalf of someone. Looked quite solid, paint was very average
and the front guards were in primer IIRC... same sort of price and
description (including uninstalled new trim kit) I have pics somewhere if
people want to see it.



> Description:
>
> SUNBEAM: 1966 Tiger, #B9472094LRXFE, midnight blue, few miles on rebuilt
> engine and clutch, brakes redone, tight gearbox, all gauges work,
> practically zero rust, straight panels, clean undercarriage, new tires,
> battery, starter; Edelbrock intake, four-barrel; new top, carpets,
> upholstery (blue), uninstalled; needs outside paint, $22,500; possible
> shipping. 843-795-8385, Charleston, SC. $22,500
>
>
> Then its a no brainer to buy the Hemmings car.  Ask for plenty of photos or
> better still, view the car yourself.





-- 
Regards

Michael King

From bobdixon at frii.com  Sun Apr 10 17:49:29 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 17:49:29 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far
Message-ID: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846@BobsDell>

Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was the 
first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own 
suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month.  At 
least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so pretty 
I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes Peak.

Side:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg

Engine:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg

Front:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20032.jpg

Dash:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20020.jpg

Wheelwell:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20022.jpg

Pull type clutch slave conversion:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20024.jpg

Take care,
Bob Dixon

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sun Apr 10 18:40:11 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 10:40:11 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far
In-Reply-To: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846@BobsDell>
References: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846@BobsDell>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=2NJOdNzAxMjqutFtnGe=f8b4_sQ@mail.gmail.com>

Really nice work.. and nice fuse setup you have going in the dash pics.

Also.. the dash is VERY nice.. who made it?

On 11 April 2011 09:49, Bob Dixon <bobdixon at frii.com> wrote:

> Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was the
> first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own
> suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month.  At
> least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so pretty
> I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes Peak.
>
> Side:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg
>
> Engine:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg
>
> Front:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20032.jpg
>
> Dash:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20020.jpg
>
> Wheelwell:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20022.jpg
>
> Pull type clutch slave conversion:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20024.jpg
>
> Take care,
> Bob Dixon
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sun Apr 10 20:12:34 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 21:12:34 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far
In-Reply-To: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846@BobsDell>
References: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846@BobsDell>
Message-ID: <000001cbf7ed$ec3383e0$c49a8ba0$@rr.com>

What a SWEET car Bob!  You have done a great job with it.

Is there any way to do the peak without a cage?  I would have second
thoughts too.

I am very jealous of your lift.

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Dixon
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 6:49 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far

Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was the 
first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own 
suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month.  At 
least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so pretty 
I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes Peak.

Side:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg

Engine:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg

Front:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20032.jpg

Dash:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20020.jpg

Wheelwell:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20022.jpg

Pull type clutch slave conversion:
https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20024.jpg

Take care,
Bob Dixon
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From bobdixon at frii.com  Sun Apr 10 20:14:10 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 20:14:10 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far
References: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846@BobsDell>
	<BANLkTi=2NJOdNzAxMjqutFtnGe=f8b4_sQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E8AC822087DB4D4DBA0673AB14B6F5F9@BobsDell>

Thanks!!

Dash was made by Prestige Autowood (Randy Keller).  It is absolutely gorgeous.
I highly recommend his work.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: michael king
  To: Bob Dixon
  Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 6:40 PM
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] My tiger so far


  Really nice work.. and nice fuse setup you have going in the dash pics.

  Also.. the dash is VERY nice.. who made it?


  On 11 April 2011 09:49, Bob Dixon <bobdixon at frii.com> wrote:

    Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was
the first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own
suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month.  At
least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so pretty
I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes Peak.

    Side:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg

    Engine:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg

    Front:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20032.jpg

    Dash:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20020.jpg

    Wheelwell:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20022.jpg

    Pull type clutch slave conversion:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20024.jpg

    Take care,
    Bob Dixon
    _______________________________________________
    Tigers at autox.team.net
    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com





  --
  Regards

  Michael King

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sun Apr 10 20:15:37 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 21:15:37 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far
In-Reply-To: <E8AC822087DB4D4DBA0673AB14B6F5F9@BobsDell>
References: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846@BobsDell>
	<BANLkTi=2NJOdNzAxMjqutFtnGe=f8b4_sQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<E8AC822087DB4D4DBA0673AB14B6F5F9@BobsDell>
Message-ID: <000101cbf7ee$59247630$0b6d6290$@rr.com>

I have a PA dash in my car too.  The best $500 I have ever spent.

Duke

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Dixon
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 9:14 PM
To: michael king
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My tiger so far

Thanks!!

Dash was made by Prestige Autowood (Randy Keller).  It is absolutely
gorgeous.
I highly recommend his work.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: michael king
  To: Bob Dixon
  Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 6:40 PM
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] My tiger so far


  Really nice work.. and nice fuse setup you have going in the dash pics.

  Also.. the dash is VERY nice.. who made it?


  On 11 April 2011 09:49, Bob Dixon <bobdixon at frii.com> wrote:

    Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was
the first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own
suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month.  At
least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so pretty
I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes Peak.

    Side:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg

    Engine:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg

    Front:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20032.jpg

    Dash:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20020.jpg

    Wheelwell:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20022.jpg

    Pull type clutch slave conversion:
    https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20024.jpg

    Take care,
    Bob Dixon
    _______________________________________________
    Tigers at autox.team.net
    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com





  --
  Regards

  Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From hubrick at gmail.com  Mon Apr 11 08:23:59 2011
From: hubrick at gmail.com (Rick Huber)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 09:23:59 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger buy decision
Message-ID: <BANLkTinDZh=Ww5VK6wnAWryd_MrXBFodtQ@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, what an active list and a treasure trove of information and advice.
 Thanks to everyone who answered my previous post about the Tiger I found.
 Sounds like $3-5K would be the right price for somebody who would do all
the work himself to end up with a car worth more than was spent. One of the
best comments was that I'd end up spending $35 K and it would be worth $25 K
when finished.  If I really wanted a Tiger to keep, buying the one in
Hemmings or another one offered in this email exchange for around $22 K is
the right way to go, but like someone else said, that's a big chunk of money
when you think falsely that you'll spend less a little at a time. I was
thinking I could buy low and sell high, but that certainly isn't realistic.
I'm here in the USA, and I'll get back in touch with the owner tomorrow.
 I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers,
Rick

From Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com  Mon Apr 11 09:06:08 2011
From: Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com (Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 11:06:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4765.1302531846.3241.tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4765.1302531846.3241.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF823FA943.3FB79883-ON8525786F.0052C95A-8525786F.0052F591@sybase.com>

Very nice work, Bob!

Can I ask where you got your aluminum radiator from and how much it was?

thanks,

Paul


> From: "Bob Dixon" <bobdixon at frii.com>
> Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far
> To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <BA511D1FF4A74F7B94AEF3030D063846 at BobsDell>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252";
>    reply-type=original
> 
> Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was 
the 
> first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own 
> suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month. 
At 
> least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so 
pretty 
> I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes 
Peak.
> 
> Side:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg
> 
> Engine:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg
> 
> Front:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20032.jpg
> 
> Dash:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20020.jpg
> 
> Wheelwell:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20022.jpg
> 
> Pull type clutch slave conversion:
> https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20024.jpg
> 
> Take care,
> Bob Dixon

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Apr 11 10:56:33 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 10:56:33 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Anniversary
Message-ID: <20110411165633.2209F2E071@bradakis.com>

I imagine there are folks on the list who grew up listening to
The Beatles, and remember the Sgt. Pepper song which starts:

It was 20 years ago today
Sargent Pepper taught the band to play


Well, 20 years ago today the domain Team.Net was registered.
The autocross and british car lists were already up and running
for a while on my computer at the U of U, but getting our own
domain was a big step in a new direction.  Hard to beleive I've
been doing this for so many years.

Happy anniversary, folks!

mjb.

From 2mbb at sbcglobal.net  Mon Apr 11 12:06:49 2011
From: 2mbb at sbcglobal.net (Mark Burnett)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 11:06:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far...
Message-ID: <273726.18890.qm@web82406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob:  What dual brake master are you using, and have you done any other brake 
upgrades?  thanks.

>Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was the 
>first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own 
>suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month.  At 
>least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so pretty 
>I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes Peak.
>
>Side:
>https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg
>
>Engine:
>https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg

From bobdixon at frii.com  Mon Apr 11 13:00:11 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 13:00:11 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] My tiger so far...
In-Reply-To: <273726.18890.qm@web82406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <273726.18890.qm@web82406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <36272997ae4b7e9a8ae05d38d1d36521@localhost>

The master is from a 240Z.  The brakes are stock but completely
rebuilt.

On Mon, 11 Apr 2011 11:06:49 -0700 (PDT), Mark Burnett
<2mbb at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Bob:  What dual brake master are you using, and have you done any
> other brake
> upgrades?  thanks.
> 
>>Just thought I would share some current pictures of my Tiger.  This was the
>>first weekend in a few years that it has actually sat on it's own
>>suspension.  I'm working hard to have it going by the end of the month.  At
>>least enough to putter around the neighborhood.  It's turning out so pretty
>>I'm having second thoughts about putting a cage in it and doing Pikes Peak.
>>
>>Side:
>>https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20029.jpg
>>
>>Engine:
>>https://users.frii.com/littlepearl/Tiger%20031.jpg
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobdixon at frii.com

From choffman9 at cinci.rr.com  Mon Apr 11 14:34:05 2011
From: choffman9 at cinci.rr.com (Curt Hoffman)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 16:34:05 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Finally running
Message-ID: <00e801cbf887$ccfce3f0$66f6abd0$@cinci.rr.com>

Well, after two years of solid neglect up on blocks, but having installed
almost all the known Cooling modifications as documented by Tiger Tom et al,
I fired up the Tiger today. Started right up (with new gas of course), and
purred like a kitten. Didn't have enough gas to see if it would still get
too hot, plus it was raining like crazy, so will wait for  another day this
week to really check it out. Plus having insurance on the car would probably
be a good idea. That oversize fan, and electric fan added on, really move
some air. I am optimistic for a brighter and cooler future than what I had
at the Washington DC TEAE United (the last time the poor thing was on the
road).   

Funny too- after owning it for about 6 years I finally pulled the hardtop
off and what do you know- -there is a soft top under there and in pretty
good shape. 

Curt

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Mon Apr 11 17:13:01 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 09:13:01 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=4wfKwTgeLo4die2aXaLPo31f1xA@mail.gmail.com>

I wass ent this the other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other
locations.. time to let the theorys begin:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html
Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..

I'd love a pic of the rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the
correct MKII pressing.

Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could perhaps get us
those..

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From shutchin at netjets.com  Mon Apr 11 17:42:04 2011
From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:42:04 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D40D4EA8B7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com>

Looks restorable to me. 

Open wallet.  Extract cash. 


Scott Hutchinson
Pilot, NetJets Aviation 

Mobile 843.290.2805

----- Original Message -----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon Apr 11 19:13:01 2011
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car

I wass ent this the other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other
locations.. time to let the theorys begin:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html
Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..

I'd love a pic of the rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the
correct MKII pressing.

Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could perhaps get us
those..

-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/shutchin at netjets.com


*** *******
This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error,  please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message.

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Mon Apr 11 18:08:16 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:08:16 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
In-Reply-To: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D40D4EA8B7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com>
References: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D40D4EA8B7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbf8a5$b96d2020$2c476060$@rr.com>

Wallet hell..............vault more like it.

Duke
382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Scott Hutchinson
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:42 PM
To: michael.s.king at gmail.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MKII parts car

Looks restorable to me. 

Open wallet.  Extract cash. 


Scott Hutchinson
Pilot, NetJets Aviation 

Mobile 843.290.2805

----- Original Message -----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon Apr 11 19:13:01 2011
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car

I wass ent this the other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other
locations.. time to let the theorys begin:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html
Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..

I'd love a pic of the rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the
correct MKII pressing.

Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could perhaps get us
those..

-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/shutchin at netjets.com


*** *******
This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged.
Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee),
you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information
contained in the message. If you have received the message in error,  please
advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From rab65tiger at aol.com  Mon Apr 11 19:05:59 2011
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 21:05:59 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=4wfKwTgeLo4die2aXaLPo31f1xA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=4wfKwTgeLo4die2aXaLPo31f1xA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CDC6C4EB5604C1-734-6B7B@webmail-m079.sysops.aol.com>

 Who purchased the alpine 260 that was in PA craigslist about 2 months ago,
like usual I saw it a day late.  The asking price was $600.00.  I did not get
details, the seller said already sold, but I think it was an alpine 260 ???
The car was really ruff, but at that price.....

Randy B


-----Original Message-----
From: michael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 11, 2011 6:13 pm
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car


I wass ent this the other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other

locations.. time to let the theorys begin:



http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html

Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator

shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..



I'd love a pic of the rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the

correct MKII pressing.



Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could perhaps get us

those..



--

Regards



Michael King

_______________________________________________

Tigers at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rab65tiger at aol.com

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 07:07:23 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 08:07:23 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=4wfKwTgeLo4die2aXaLPo31f1xA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BANLkTi=4wfKwTgeLo4die2aXaLPo31f1xA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801cbf912$90e47550$b2ad5ff0$@com>

This is kinda funny...when this email hit the list last night, I clicked on
the link and checked out the pics and description...i thought.." yeah its
rough, but ive seen rougher.."...following that thought 3 or 4 of us
commented on how it would be ridiculously expensive to try and save it do to
the work it needed....( I don't necessarily disagree) and so we laughed
about wallets and vaults and the topic moved on to other things....

This morning l clicked on the link again for giggles and its gone...ad
removed by owner. So...I'm guessing its very possible that someone on this
list contacted the seller and purchased the car quickly upon seeing the
topic...so he either really wanted the trim for 4 grand or disagreed with
the comments from the seller and thoughts of those who commented that it
wasn't savable...LOL

Anybody know what happened that wants to admit it?

;)

Cullen
Alpine 260



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:13 PM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car

I wass ent this the other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other
locations.. time to let the theorys begin:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html
Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..

I'd love a pic of the rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the
correct MKII pressing.

Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could perhaps get us
those..

-- 
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Apr 12 07:38:53 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 09:38:53 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
In-Reply-To: <003801cbf912$90e47550$b2ad5ff0$@com>
Message-ID: <CB1877BC8E2A461286E6C29BBC43688F@ronpc1>

Cullen
	I just clicked on the link and the ad is still there.
Pictures can be deceiving but this looks like a good project car but needs
to be seen in person to tell.   The no Vin plate does create a few problems
with the DMV.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Cullen McCann
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 9:07 AM
To: 'michael king'; 'Tiger Talk ListTiger'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MKII parts car


This is kinda funny...when this email hit the list last night, I clicked on
the link and checked out the pics and description...i thought.." yeah its
rough, but ive seen rougher.."...following that thought 3 or 4 of us
commented on how it would be ridiculously expensive to try and save it do to
the work it needed....( I don't necessarily disagree) and so we laughed
about wallets and vaults and the topic moved on to other things....

This morning l clicked on the link again for giggles and its gone...ad
removed by owner. So...I'm guessing its very possible that someone on this
list contacted the seller and purchased the car quickly upon seeing the
topic...so he either really wanted the trim for 4 grand or disagreed with
the comments from the seller and thoughts of those who commented that it
wasn't savable...LOL

Anybody know what happened that wants to admit it?

;)

Cullen
Alpine 260



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:13 PM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car

I wass ent this the other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other
locations.. time to let the theorys begin:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html
Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..

I'd love a pic of the rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the
correct MKII pressing.

Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could perhaps get us
those..

--
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3568 - Release Date: 04/12/11
06:34:00

From CoolVT at aol.com  Tue Apr 12 08:18:08 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 10:18:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
Message-ID: <648e0.29cacd24.3ad5b920@aol.com>

What were the Mkll trim pieces on the car?
 
 
In a message dated 4/12/2011 10:08:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rfraser at bluefrog.com writes:

Cullen
I just clicked on the link and the ad is  still there.
Pictures can be deceiving but this looks like a good project  car but needs
to be seen in person to tell.   The no Vin plate  does create a few problems
with the DMV.

Ron  Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of Cullen McCann
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 9:07 AM
To:  'michael king'; 'Tiger Talk ListTiger'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MKII parts  car


This is kinda funny...when this email hit the list last night,  I clicked on
the link and checked out the pics and description...i  thought.." yeah its
rough, but ive seen rougher.."...following that thought  3 or 4 of us
commented on how it would be ridiculously expensive to try and  save it do 
to
the work it needed....( I don't necessarily disagree) and so  we laughed
about wallets and vaults and the topic moved on to other  things....

This morning l clicked on the link again for giggles and its  gone...ad
removed by owner. So...I'm guessing its very possible that  someone on this
list contacted the seller and purchased the car quickly  upon seeing the
topic...so he either really wanted the trim for 4 grand or  disagreed with
the comments from the seller and thoughts of those who  commented that it
wasn't savable...LOL

Anybody know what happened  that wants to admit it?

;)

Cullen
Alpine  260



-----Original Message-----
From:  tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On  Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:13 PM
To: Tiger  Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car

I wass ent this the  other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other
locations.. time to  let the theorys  begin:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html
Car has  the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud,  shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..

I'd love a pic of the  rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the
correct MKII  pressing.

Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could  perhaps get us
those..

--
Regards

Michael  King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
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No  virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG -  www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3568 - Release Date:  04/12/11
06:34:00
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 08:25:41 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 09:25:41 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
In-Reply-To: <648e0.29cacd24.3ad5b920@aol.com>
References: <648e0.29cacd24.3ad5b920@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007e01cbf91d$80e1a370$82a4ea50$@com>

Well since I can't find the add anymore, I can't double check.but originally
michael king wrote:

 

".Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..."

 

Michael, what did you see? Wheel arch trim? I was looking at it the first
time on my phone, couldn't see very well..

 

From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 9:18 AM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com;
michael.s.king at gmail.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MKII parts car

 

What were the Mkll trim pieces on the car?

 

In a message dated 4/12/2011 10:08:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rfraser at bluefrog.com writes:

Cullen
    I just clicked on the link and the ad is still there.
Pictures can be deceiving but this looks like a good project car but needs
to be seen in person to tell.   The no Vin plate does create a few problems
with the DMV.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Cullen McCann
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 9:07 AM
To: 'michael king'; 'Tiger Talk ListTiger'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] MKII parts car


This is kinda funny...when this email hit the list last night, I clicked on
the link and checked out the pics and description...i thought.." yeah its
rough, but ive seen rougher.."...following that thought 3 or 4 of us
commented on how it would be ridiculously expensive to try and save it do to
the work it needed....( I don't necessarily disagree) and so we laughed
about wallets and vaults and the topic moved on to other things....

This morning l clicked on the link again for giggles and its gone...ad
removed by owner. So...I'm guessing its very possible that someone on this
list contacted the seller and purchased the car quickly upon seeing the
topic...so he either really wanted the trim for 4 grand or disagreed with
the comments from the seller and thoughts of those who commented that it
wasn't savable...LOL

Anybody know what happened that wants to admit it?

;)

Cullen
Alpine 260



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:13 PM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car

I wass ent this the other day by a lister.. but as its now posted in other
locations.. time to let the theorys begin:

http://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/2315113445.html
Car has the MKII trim, looks ot have an original steering wheel, radiator
shroud, shifter.. of course tunnel and other body parts..

I'd love a pic of the rear deck, see if it has a battery box lid or is the
correct MKII pressing.

Now .. no VIN or JAL.. but the rear axel numbers could perhaps get us
those..

--
Regards

Michael King
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3568 - Release Date: 04/12/11
06:34:00
_______________________________________________
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From jd.sencindiver at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 08:26:45 2011
From: jd.sencindiver at gmail.com (Jim Sencindiver)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 10:26:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
In-Reply-To: <CB1877BC8E2A461286E6C29BBC43688F@ronpc1>
References: <003801cbf912$90e47550$b2ad5ff0$@com>
	<CB1877BC8E2A461286E6C29BBC43688F@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <BANLkTimGRVuAR_B4=7snqCsVCDfUk2R7YQ@mail.gmail.com>

I just clicked on the link and it's gone.  States that the add has been
removed by the owner.

Keep on Tigering!

Jim Sencindiver

B382100451/TAC 448
http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp


On Tue, Apr 12, 2011 at 9:38 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Cullen
>        I just clicked on the link and the ad is still there.
> Pictures can be deceiving but this looks like a good project car but needs
> to be seen in person to tell.   The no Vin plate does create a few problems
> with the DMV.
>
> Ron Fraser
> --

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 12 09:58:48 2011
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 08:58:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
Message-ID: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of quality reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one tiger, fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?

i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog light set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing restoration of the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.

peter

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 15:22:51 2011
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 17:22:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MKII parts car
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTimGRVuAR_B4=7snqCsVCDfUk2R7YQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <003801cbf912$90e47550$b2ad5ff0$@com>
	<CB1877BC8E2A461286E6C29BBC43688F@ronpc1>
	<BANLkTimGRVuAR_B4=7snqCsVCDfUk2R7YQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=w6PJPDLiYv_fcT_Y8DYbzbfPxWA@mail.gmail.com>

The Guy is doing his homework,stay tuned

On Tue, Apr 12, 2011 at 10:26 AM, Jim Sencindiver
<jd.sencindiver at gmail.com>wrote:

> I just clicked on the link and it's gone.  States that the add has been
> removed by the owner.
>
> Keep on Tigering!
>
> Jim Sencindiver
>
> B382100451/TAC 448
> http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 12, 2011 at 9:38 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote:
>
> > Cullen
> >        I just clicked on the link and the ad is still there.
> > Pictures can be deceiving but this looks like a good project car but
> needs
> > to be seen in person to tell.   The no Vin plate does create a few
> problems
> > with the DMV.
> >
> > Ron Fraser
> > --
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 16:50:45 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 08:50:45 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>

Peter,

I have seen various repros of the lucas flame thrower lamps, you can get NOS
ones off ebay.. Tigers in period ran the rootes branded "lumax" 5" lamps, if
you search ebay UK you can normally pick up decent lumax or lucas NOS lamps
for about the same $ as repro ones... and the quality of chrome and finsh on
the old ones is better... that said.. none of them do that much for the
extra lumination

On 13 April 2011 01:58, Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of quality
> reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one tiger,
> fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
>
> i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog light
> set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing restoration of
> the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
>
> peter
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From allanballard at att.net  Tue Apr 12 17:14:06 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 19:14:06 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net>

What type On/off switch did the dealers install for Tiger driving lights?

I have a set of th2 Rootes branded spot and fog lamps and hopefully the
correct brackets, but
have no clue on a correct On/off switch.

I have a WIPAC rotary switch but it would need to be fitted to the dashboard
via the dash roll (somewhere), and that seems like it's not correct.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine (future Holbay +OD)

On Apr 12, 2011, at 6:50 PM, michael king wrote:

> Peter,
>
> I have seen various repros of the lucas flame thrower lamps, you can get
NOS
> ones off ebay.. Tigers in period ran the rootes branded "lumax" 5" lamps,
if
> you search ebay UK you can normally pick up decent lumax or lucas NOS lamps
> for about the same $ as repro ones... and the quality of chrome and finsh
on
> the old ones is better... that said.. none of them do that much for the
> extra lumination
>
> On 13 April 2011 01:58, Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of quality
>> reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one
tiger,
>> fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
>>
>> i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog light
>> set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing restoration of
>> the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
>>
>> peter
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 17:22:02 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 09:22:02 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net>
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=CXfx2iUg_F2=WVgrhoFp2wxs_7w@mail.gmail.com>

I think they used the small brackets and switch panel as viewed here:

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456758808054462410tLCaec
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456760558054462410HSXMRF
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456841931054462410aFjGRz
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456842386054462410MagGTv
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456841585054462410IytAsC

On 13 April 2011 09:14, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:

> What type On/off switch did the dealers install for Tiger driving lights?
>
> I have a set of th2 Rootes branded spot and fog lamps and hopefully the
> correct brackets, but
> have no clue on a correct On/off switch.
>
> I have a WIPAC rotary switch but it would need to be fitted to the
> dashboard
> via the dash roll (somewhere), and that seems like it's not correct.
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine (future Holbay +OD)
>
> On Apr 12, 2011, at 6:50 PM, michael king wrote:
>
> > Peter,
> >
> > I have seen various repros of the lucas flame thrower lamps, you can get
> NOS
> > ones off ebay.. Tigers in period ran the rootes branded "lumax" 5" lamps,
> if
> > you search ebay UK you can normally pick up decent lumax or lucas NOS
> lamps
> > for about the same $ as repro ones... and the quality of chrome and finsh
> on
> > the old ones is better... that said.. none of them do that much for the
> > extra lumination
> >
> > On 13 April 2011 01:58, Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of quality
> >> reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one
> tiger,
> >> fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
> >>
> >> i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog
> light
> >> set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing restoration
> of
> >> the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
> >>
> >> peter
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Tigers at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Regards
> >
> > Michael King
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
> >
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Tue Apr 12 17:36:31 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 18:36:31 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE06B8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

With the Lucas lights, the more you run, the darker it gets.

;)

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael king
> Sent: April 12, 2011 4:51 PM
> To: Peter L
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights
>
> Peter,
>
> I have seen various repros of the lucas flame thrower lamps, you can
> get NOS
> ones off ebay.. Tigers in period ran the rootes branded "lumax" 5"
> lamps, if
> you search ebay UK you can normally pick up decent lumax or lucas NOS
> lamps
> for about the same $ as repro ones... and the quality of chrome and
> finsh on
> the old ones is better... that said.. none of them do that much for the
> extra lumination
>
> On 13 April 2011 01:58, Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of
> quality
> > reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one
> tiger,
> > fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
> >
> > i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog
> light
> > set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing
> restoration of
> > the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
> >
> > peter
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
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be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
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Thank you for your cooperation.

From v8tracker at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 18:05:20 2011
From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 19:05:20 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net>
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net>
Message-ID: <7E0343121FE44E9D8A824B88FBE7D331@DellD4700>

Don't forget to use a relay for (relatively) brighter lights and less chance of
letting loose the magic smoke in the wiring.

A. C. Tynes 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 6:14 PM
To: Beamclub TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights

What type On/off switch did the dealers install for Tiger driving lights?

I have a set of th2 Rootes branded spot and fog lamps and hopefully the
correct brackets, but
have no clue on a correct On/off switch.

I have a WIPAC rotary switch but it would need to be fitted to the dashboard
via the dash roll (somewhere), and that seems like it's not correct.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine (future Holbay +OD)

On Apr 12, 2011, at 6:50 PM, michael king wrote:

> Peter,
>
> I have seen various repros of the lucas flame thrower lamps, you can get
NOS
> ones off ebay.. Tigers in period ran the rootes branded "lumax" 5" lamps,
if
> you search ebay UK you can normally pick up decent lumax or lucas NOS lamps
> for about the same $ as repro ones... and the quality of chrome and finsh
on
> the old ones is better... that said.. none of them do that much for the
> extra lumination
>
> On 13 April 2011 01:58, Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of quality
>> reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one
tiger,
>> fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
>>
>> i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog light
>> set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing restoration of
>> the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
>>
>> peter
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com


________________________________

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From allanballard at att.net  Tue Apr 12 18:36:13 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 20:36:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTi=CXfx2iUg_F2=WVgrhoFp2wxs_7w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net>
	<BANLkTi=CXfx2iUg_F2=WVgrhoFp2wxs_7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E04DCADE-42EA-48B8-88BB-DF3B8093CAFD@att.net>

Thanks!

That's the same place I'd have chosen for the Wipac switch. The flick
switches
do look better, or at least appear to continue the theme found on the dash.

I suspect an aluminum faced panel is scarce.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

On Apr 12, 2011, at 7:22 PM, michael king wrote:

> I think they used the small brackets and switch panel as viewed here:
>
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456758808054462410tLCaec
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456760558054462410HSXMRF
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456841931054462410aFjGRz
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456842386054462410MagGTv
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456841585054462410IytAsC
>
> On 13 April 2011 09:14, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:
> What type On/off switch did the dealers install for Tiger driving lights?
>
> I have a set of th2 Rootes branded spot and fog lamps and hopefully the
correct brackets, but
> have no clue on a correct On/off switch.
>
> I have a WIPAC rotary switch but it would need to be fitted to the
dashboard
> via the dash roll (somewhere), and that seems like it's not correct.
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine (future Holbay +OD)
>
> On Apr 12, 2011, at 6:50 PM, michael king wrote:
>
> > Peter,
> >
> > I have seen various repros of the lucas flame thrower lamps, you can get
NOS
> > ones off ebay.. Tigers in period ran the rootes branded "lumax" 5" lamps,
if
> > you search ebay UK you can normally pick up decent lumax or lucas NOS
lamps
> > for about the same $ as repro ones... and the quality of chrome and finsh
on
> > the old ones is better... that said.. none of them do that much for the
> > extra lumination
> >
> > On 13 April 2011 01:58, Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of quality
> >> reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one
tiger,
> >> fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
> >>
> >> i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog
light
> >> set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing restoration
of
> >> the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
> >>
> >> peter
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Tigers at autox.team.net
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > Regards
> >
> > Michael King
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
> >
>
>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King

From scattt at verizon.net  Tue Apr 12 18:43:18 2011
From: scattt at verizon.net (Scattt)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 20:43:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net>
	<BANLkTi=CXfx2iUg_F2=WVgrhoFp2wxs_7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7D7C608DB6A04D4091FD5B3C104541B7@homef2683adebd>

Same switch panel my 64 Imp has for a heater blower control.
>> > Michael King
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Tigers at autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/scattt at verizon.net

From bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com  Tue Apr 12 19:49:40 2011
From: bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com (bob webb)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 21:49:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><BANLkTini3nhBLP=rfDNJeXeb0F6OtYbekQ@mail.gmail.com><75DDF0FC-0118-4919-B1C7-28CE314A8B8F@att.net><BANLkTi=CXfx2iUg_F2=WVgrhoFp2wxs_7w@mail.gmail.com>
	<E04DCADE-42EA-48B8-88BB-DF3B8093CAFD@att.net>
Message-ID: <B0B24E54767C47BC8AC41E733B50C949@yourze8cxvr8tt>

i sold one of the switch panels on e bay a couple weeks ago. i have another 
that has 4 switches. my series 4 has an extra switch hole on the right side 
of the dash. i have two lucas driving lights on the light bar. they are tied 
together and are controlled by the one switch.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Ballard" <allanballard at att.net>
To: "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
Cc: "Beamclub TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights


> Thanks!
>
> That's the same place I'd have chosen for the Wipac switch. The flick
> switches
> do look better, or at least appear to continue the theme found on the 
> dash.
>
> I suspect an aluminum faced panel is scarce.
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine
>
> On Apr 12, 2011, at 7:22 PM, michael king wrote:
>
>> I think they used the small brackets and switch panel as viewed here:
>>
>> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456758808054462410tLCaec
>> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456760558054462410HSXMRF
>> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456841931054462410aFjGRz
>> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456842386054462410MagGTv
>> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1456841585054462410IytAsC
>>
>> On 13 April 2011 09:14, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:
>> What type On/off switch did the dealers install for Tiger driving lights?
>>
>> I have a set of th2 Rootes branded spot and fog lamps and hopefully the
> correct brackets, but
>> have no clue on a correct On/off switch.
>>
>> I have a WIPAC rotary switch but it would need to be fitted to the
> dashboard
>> via the dash roll (somewhere), and that seems like it's not correct.
>>
>> Allan Ballard
>> Mk1a Tiger
>> SIV Alpine (future Holbay +OD)
>>
>> On Apr 12, 2011, at 6:50 PM, michael king wrote:
>>
>> > Peter,
>> >
>> > I have seen various repros of the lucas flame thrower lamps, you can 
>> > get
> NOS
>> > ones off ebay.. Tigers in period ran the rootes branded "lumax" 5" 
>> > lamps,
> if
>> > you search ebay UK you can normally pick up decent lumax or lucas NOS
> lamps
>> > for about the same $ as repro ones... and the quality of chrome and 
>> > finsh
> on
>> > the old ones is better... that said.. none of them do that much for the
>> > extra lumination
>> >
>> > On 13 April 2011 01:58, Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of 
>> >> quality
>> >> reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one
> tiger,
>> >> fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
>> >>
>> >> i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog
> light
>> >> set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing 
>> >> restoration
> of
>> >> the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
>> >>
>> >> peter
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Regards
>> >
>> > Michael King
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Tigers at autox.team.net
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Regards
>>
>> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Tue Apr 12 20:56:20 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 02:56:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <1263147525.173179.1302663330074.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <956197193.173228.1302663380387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Any info on this from the BON?B B  I do not have a copy.B B B  However, and
for whatever it may be worth, my old CAT Shop Notes Third Edition (1980) has
an extensive Parts List in it.B B  Who compilied it and from where does not
seem to be indicated.B B  However, it lists the following Lucas models under
Fog Lamps:B B  FT6, SFT576, and SFT700.B B  For Long range driving lamps it
lists LR6, SLR576, and SLR700.B B  It also lists two Foglamp switches:B B 
model 57SA part #31947 D/E and Foglamp 3 position model 57SA part number
31946B.



In my copy of the Rootes ManualB  WSM.143/144 First re-issue the wiring
diagram shows both lights controlled by a single switch.B B  On the pictorial
of the dash at the far left lower corner of the dash to the left of and below
the a mmeter location B it is indicated that a switch goes there for
auxliliary lamp (if fitted).B  However, on my car, that is where my heater
blower switch is located and there is no location for the blower switch
anywhere on the pictorial!



I am very content to leave the B blower switch where it is and follow the
highly knowledgeable Michael King and his information on the auxiliary
panel.B B  However, it would seem a case could be made for putting a single
switch controling both lights by the ammeter and putting the blower switch
(with its metal label surround) on a separate auxiliary panel under the dash
bottom roll.B B  Of course, there are examples of incorrect info in the
manual, are there not?!



Just stirring the pot a little late in the day for the fun of it.B B  Your
forgiveness please!



Gene

From bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com  Tue Apr 12 21:16:13 2011
From: bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com (bob webb)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:16:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D79F773805CE40D2B1D518963C756575@yourze8cxvr8tt>

look for a set of aircraft landing lights. they would probably be bright.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter L" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 11:58 AM
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights


> any recommendations for driving lights for my tiger, in terms of quality 
> reproduction lucas or period correct?  i have a pair from moss on one 
> tiger, fair quality, was wondering if anything better or more authentic?
>
> i do have what probably is period correct original driving light/fog light 
> set (one of each, with one yellow, one clear), but guessing restoration of 
> the chrome might be more trouble than its worth for me right now.
>
> peter
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Apr 12 22:23:01 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 14:23:01 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <956197193.173228.1302663380387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1263147525.173179.1302663330074.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<956197193.173228.1302663380387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinRHJ4YS+4Z9a12b02V9iKJXCrB1w@mail.gmail.com>

Gene,

On the early tigers (and all alpines from SI-3) they  had the option of
having the "fog" switch bellow the ammeter as the heater was controlled by a
push/pull switch intergral in the control knobs for the ventilation system.
these are the ones with the metal knobs. On the SI-3 alpines they had a
perspex eschutcheon with "fog" on it that contorlled the lamp, though in
that circumstance it was likely a single "fog" lamp. Also available was a
seperate panel that mounted below the dash that contained a sparto rotatry
switch that could bring on fog, dirving or both by rotating it.

On the tiger images shown from period road test (though should be noted all
those pics are UK cars)
 they list and show the small auxilery panel in my pics, they list single
position lucas switches as part of the kit. and they could control 1 fog 1
driving (hence 2 switches) or you could have 2 fog or 2 driving lamps.

The factory lamps were always LUMAX, DF1 models on SI.II alpines and when
they moved to 3 they had the smaller lamps, during 1963 they released a lamp
with "ROOTES" instead of lumax in the centre.. this was stcok for all
Tigers. It should be noted there were 3 types of bracket for the lamps,
single stand along, ones incorperated into the optional badge bar and a rare
set that mounted the lamps lower with a simple angled bracket that had a
lamp using an angled mounting post (quite rare)

Anyway.. if you want "factory" correct for a tiger they should be the ROOTES
logoed lumax lamps, but there are plenty of nice period options, the lucas
lamps, Wipac, Sparto lamps and even other types of slimline lumax options...




-- 
Regards

Michael King

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Tue Apr 12 22:25:57 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 21:25:57 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
References: <403270.82308.qm@web121404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<D79F773805CE40D2B1D518963C756575@yourze8cxvr8tt>
Message-ID: <976F401EE0A749D49DF72466EEAFAB54@student2>

>>> look for a set of aircraft landing lights. they would probably be 
>>> bright.<<<

Back in the late 70's / early 80's those of use with the four headlight 
configuration (Datsun 510's for example) would run the 100 watt aircraft 
landing lights in the high beam buckets. The unobscured filament, silver 
reflector and clear lens would throw light for BLOCKS! Back then they were 
about $5 each.

Years ago I found a set of "Trophy" Halogen headlights at Pick N Pull on a 
Pinto. No name, but a trophy image formed into the center. Never seen 
another set before - or after.   Virtually nothing on the web about them.  I 
think they were made in Brazil.  I recall someone telling me they may have 
been a K-Mart (or similar) "halogen upgrade" for standard bulbs.  Anyway, 
they may be nothing special, but I'm probably going to be the only Tiger 
with a set of these "70's correct" replacement bulbs.

Tom 

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Tue Apr 12 23:26:53 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 05:26:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <1172583731.178354.1302672378200.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <514204503.178360.1302672413712.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Michael, your storehouse of knowledge is vastly greater than I could ever hope
to have.B B  As I wish to emphasize, I am more than content to follow the
guidance you give based on the knowledge you take the time to share.B B 



I just thought it interesting that there are also some potentially creditable
sources of information, like the factory workshop manual, and potentially the
old CAT Shop Notes, that had alternative information.



Based on the additional detail you have provided, I think I can reconcile the
factory manual information.B B  The pictorial mentioned shows a short shifter
in it.B  That would suggest that it is indeed an early Tiger I drawing and
hence the location of auxiliary light switch as you described as appropriate
for that early version.B  It also explains the single switch in the wiring
diagram showing one switch controlling two lights.B  Your description of the
heater on-off switch for that model is also consistent with there being no
separately shown blower switch location.B B  Obviously the factory did not up
date this drawing for their their 1967 First Reissue.B B 



As for the CAT information, I am guessing that most likely it reflects what
was being made available as dealer installed options in the US.B  In fact,
there is reference to checking with dealer regarding the Quartz Iodine or
Quartz Halogen nature of some of the lights listed.



Regards,



Gene







B ----- Original Message -----
From: " michael king" < michael .s.king@ gmail .com>
To: genepadgett @comcast.net
Cc: tigers@ autox .team.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 11:23:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights


Gene,

On the early tigers (and all alpines from SI-3) theyB  had the option of
having the "fog" switch bellow the ammeter as the heater was controlled by a
push/pull switch intergral in the control knobs for the ventilation system.
these are the ones with the metal knobs. On the SI-3 alpines they had a
perspex eschutcheon with "fog" on it that contorlled the lamp, though in that
circumstance it was likely a single "fog" lamp. Also available was a seperate
panel that mounted below the dash that contained a sparto rotatry switch that
could bring on fog, dirving or both by rotating it.

On the tigerB images shown from period road test (though should be noted all
those pics are UK cars)B 
B they list and show the small auxilery panel in my pics, they list single
position lucas switches as part of the kit. and they could control 1 fog 1
driving (hence 2 switches) or you could have 2 fog or 2 driving lamps.

The factory lamps were always LUMAX , DF1 models on SI.II alpines and when
they moved to 3 they had the smaller lamps, during 1963 they released a lamp
with " ROOTES " instead of lumax in the centre .. this was stcok for all
Tigers. It should be noted there were 3 types of bracket for the lamps, single
stand along, ones incorperated into the optional badge bar and a rare set that
mounted the lamps lower with a simple angled bracket that had a lamp using an
angled mounting post (quite rare)

Anyway.. if you want "factory" correct for a tiger they should be the ROOTES
logoed lumax lamps, but there are plenty of nice period options, the lucas
lamps, Wipac , Sparto lamps and even other types of slimline lumax options...




--
Regards

Michael King

From bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com  Wed Apr 13 05:17:12 2011
From: bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com (bob webb)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 07:17:12 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
References: <1263147525.173179.1302663330074.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><956197193.173228.1302663380387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BANLkTinRHJ4YS+4Z9a12b02V9iKJXCrB1w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <464840F28C1F443590BE3B2B0342DDAF@yourze8cxvr8tt>

again michael comes up with rootes info. you have to decide whether you want 
period correct or factory correct. in the sixties and seventies there was 
really very little use of factory items.that could be the reason for the 
rarity of them today. we could not afford the dealer price. thru one of the 
larger aftermarket dealers you could buy brands such as marchal,hella,cibie 
and lucas. there were round and rectangular shaped lights. i have a pair of 
rectangular hellas that set inside the grill opening of my alpine for many 
years. of course that's not a good idea on a tiger. a marchal standard lamp 
cost 12.95, a quartz iodine cost 18.95. cibie sold one for 25.50 that they 
said had a range of 3/4 of a mile. they also sold lucas PL-700 headlights 
for 24.50 per pair. the number of switch panels that was being sold was 
massive since all of the above sold them. they may have all been made by a 
few manufacturers. i have a pair of 7" lumax that look massive on the front 
of a beam. i also have an aftermarket switch panel that is identical to the 
rootes panel.again it's all a matter of factory correct or period 
correct.the principal is the same.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
To: <genepadgett at comcast.net>
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 12:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights


> Gene,
>
> On the early tigers (and all alpines from SI-3) they  had the option of
> having the "fog" switch bellow the ammeter as the heater was controlled by 
> a
> push/pull switch intergral in the control knobs for the ventilation 
> system.
> these are the ones with the metal knobs. On the SI-3 alpines they had a
> perspex eschutcheon with "fog" on it that contorlled the lamp, though in
> that circumstance it was likely a single "fog" lamp. Also available was a
> seperate panel that mounted below the dash that contained a sparto rotatry
> switch that could bring on fog, dirving or both by rotating it.
>
> On the tiger images shown from period road test (though should be noted 
> all
> those pics are UK cars)
> they list and show the small auxilery panel in my pics, they list single
> position lucas switches as part of the kit. and they could control 1 fog 1
> driving (hence 2 switches) or you could have 2 fog or 2 driving lamps.
>
> The factory lamps were always LUMAX, DF1 models on SI.II alpines and when
> they moved to 3 they had the smaller lamps, during 1963 they released a 
> lamp
> with "ROOTES" instead of lumax in the centre.. this was stcok for all
> Tigers. It should be noted there were 3 types of bracket for the lamps,
> single stand along, ones incorperated into the optional badge bar and a 
> rare
> set that mounted the lamps lower with a simple angled bracket that had a
> lamp using an angled mounting post (quite rare)
>
> Anyway.. if you want "factory" correct for a tiger they should be the 
> ROOTES
> logoed lumax lamps, but there are plenty of nice period options, the lucas
> lamps, Wipac, Sparto lamps and even other types of slimline lumax 
> options...
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 13 05:58:15 2011
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 07:58:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <514204503.178360.1302672413712.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <514204503.178360.1302672413712.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <27DBBA27-9014-4C9A-B365-CEED9BAD2B59@yahoo.com>

now you guys opened a pandoras box for me.  i just a day ago was content with
some period-looking driving lamps.  now, given my OCD tendencies, i gotta get
the switch assembly right too!!  guess this is another rainy day research
project....

:)





On Apr 13, 2011, at 1:26 AM, genepadgett at comcast.net wrote:

> Michael, your storehouse of knowledge is vastly greater than I could ever
hope
> to have.B B  As I wish to emphasize, I am more than content to follow the
> guidance you give based on the knowledge you take the time to share.B B
>
>
>
> I just thought it interesting that there are also some potentially
creditable
> sources of information, like the factory workshop manual, and potentially
the
> old CAT Shop Notes, that had alternative information.
>
>
>
> Based on the additional detail you have provided, I think I can reconcile
the
> factory manual information.B B  The pictorial mentioned shows a short
shifter
> in it.B  That would suggest that it is indeed an early Tiger I drawing and
> hence the location of auxiliary light switch as you described as
appropriate
> for that early version.B  It also explains the single switch in the wiring
> diagram showing one switch controlling two lights.B  Your description of
the
> heater on-off switch for that model is also consistent with there being no
> separately shown blower switch location.B B  Obviously the factory did not
up
> date this drawing for their their 1967 First Reissue.B B
>
>
>
> As for the CAT information, I am guessing that most likely it reflects what
> was being made available as dealer installed options in the US.B  In fact,
> there is reference to checking with dealer regarding the Quartz Iodine or
> Quartz Halogen nature of some of the lights listed.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Gene
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> B ----- Original Message -----
> From: " michael king" < michael .s.king@ gmail .com>
> To: genepadgett @comcast.net
> Cc: tigers@ autox .team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 11:23:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights
>
>
> Gene,
>
> On the early tigers (and all alpines from SI-3) theyB  had the option of
> having the "fog" switch bellow the ammeter as the heater was controlled by
a
> push/pull switch intergral in the control knobs for the ventilation system.
> these are the ones with the metal knobs. On the SI-3 alpines they had a
> perspex eschutcheon with "fog" on it that contorlled the lamp, though in
that
> circumstance it was likely a single "fog" lamp. Also available was a
seperate
> panel that mounted below the dash that contained a sparto rotatry switch
that
> could bring on fog, dirving or both by rotating it.
>
> On the tigerB images shown from period road test (though should be noted
all
> those pics are UK cars)B
> B they list and show the small auxilery panel in my pics, they list single
> position lucas switches as part of the kit. and they could control 1 fog 1
> driving (hence 2 switches) or you could have 2 fog or 2 driving lamps.
>
> The factory lamps were always LUMAX , DF1 models on SI.II alpines and when
> they moved to 3 they had the smaller lamps, during 1963 they released a
lamp
> with " ROOTES " instead of lumax in the centre .. this was stcok for all
> Tigers. It should be noted there were 3 types of bracket for the lamps,
single
> stand along, ones incorperated into the optional badge bar and a rare set
that
> mounted the lamps lower with a simple angled bracket that had a lamp using
an
> angled mounting post (quite rare)
>
> Anyway.. if you want "factory" correct for a tiger they should be the
ROOTES
> logoed lumax lamps, but there are plenty of nice period options, the lucas
> lamps, Wipac , Sparto lamps and even other types of slimline lumax
options...
>
>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/laurin212 at yahoo.com

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Apr 13 14:35:46 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 16:35:46 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <956197193.173228.1302663380387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <32CADAF00F9343E89DDD15D336D32E80@ronpc1>

Gene
	TBON lists the driving light and the fog light but there is little
detail.  The switch panel is not shown.

The Rootes Parts List in the Special Accessories Section indicates:

5220643	Driving Lamp Kit	superseded by 1216602
5220644	Fog Lamp Kit	superseded by 1216603

Note.	For initial fitting 5220276 Switch Kit(Series I,II& III) 1800381
Switch from Series IV and 1201417 Brackets are required

	The wire diagram shows one switch and 2 Fog lights.   This could be
a typo about the 2 Fog lights?  The one switch with the Fog and Driving
light makes sense since you would use one or the other lamps as required for
the driving conditions.   2 Switches would let you have both lights on at
the same time.

Is there a wire diagram with the Switch kit that explains the 2 switches?  I
don't know.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of genepadgett at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 10:56 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights


Any info on this from the BON?B B  I do not have a copy.B B B  However, and
for whatever it may be worth, my old CAT Shop Notes Third Edition (1980) has
an extensive Parts List in it.B B  Who compilied it and from where does not
seem to be indicated.B B  However, it lists the following Lucas models under
Fog Lamps:B B  FT6, SFT576, and SFT700.B B  For Long range driving lamps it
lists LR6, SLR576, and SLR700.B B  It also lists two Foglamp switches:B B
model 57SA part #31947 D/E and Foglamp 3 position model 57SA part number
31946B.



In my copy of the Rootes ManualB  WSM.143/144 First re-issue the wiring
diagram shows both lights controlled by a single switch.B B  On the
pictorial of the dash at the far left lower corner of the dash to the left
of and below the a mmeter location B it is indicated that a switch goes
there for auxliliary lamp (if fitted).B  However, on my car, that is where
my heater blower switch is located and there is no location for the blower
switch anywhere on the pictorial!



I am very content to leave the B blower switch where it is and follow the
highly knowledgeable Michael King and his information on the auxiliary
panel.B B  However, it would seem a case could be made for putting a single
switch controling both lights by the ammeter and putting the blower switch
(with its metal label surround) on a separate auxiliary panel under the dash
bottom roll.B B  Of course, there are examples of incorrect info in the
manual, are there not?!



Just stirring the pot a little late in the day for the fun of it.B B  Your
forgiveness please!



Gene
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3568 - Release Date: 04/12/11
06:34:00

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Apr 13 15:06:56 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 17:06:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <32CADAF00F9343E89DDD15D336D32E80@ronpc1>
References: <32CADAF00F9343E89DDD15D336D32E80@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <3167AE64-3236-4FD1-B5B8-648726143F61@att.net>

Back in the day it was not unusual to run 2 fog lights.

One switch for 2 fog lights makes sense from that perspective.

Regarding the use of one switch for both fog and driving lights, the rotary
switch for fog and spot (driving) lights (Sparto or Wipac) provided
Off--Fog--Spot (Driving) or Pair (both).

If one didn't have a rotary switch, the only option that would allow operation
of either light or both lights
would call for two switches.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine




On Apr 13, 2011, at 4:35 PM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Gene
> 	TBON lists the driving light and the fog light but there is little
> detail.  The switch panel is not shown.
>
> The Rootes Parts List in the Special Accessories Section indicates:
>
> 5220643	Driving Lamp Kit	superseded by 1216602
> 5220644	Fog Lamp Kit	superseded by 1216603
>
> Note.	For initial fitting 5220276 Switch Kit(Series I,II& III) 1800381
> Switch from Series IV and 1201417 Brackets are required
>
> 	The wire diagram shows one switch and 2 Fog lights.   This could be
> a typo about the 2 Fog lights?  The one switch with the Fog and Driving
> light makes sense since you would use one or the other lamps as required
for
> the driving conditions.   2 Switches would let you have both lights on at
> the same time.
>
> Is there a wire diagram with the Switch kit that explains the 2 switches?
I
> don't know.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of genepadgett at comcast.net
> Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 10:56 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] driving lights
>
>
> Any info on this from the BON?B B  I do not have a copy.B B B  However, and
> for whatever it may be worth, my old CAT Shop Notes Third Edition (1980)
has
> an extensive Parts List in it.B B  Who compilied it and from where does not
> seem to be indicated.B B  However, it lists the following Lucas models
under
> Fog Lamps:B B  FT6, SFT576, and SFT700.B B  For Long range driving lamps it
> lists LR6, SLR576, and SLR700.B B  It also lists two Foglamp switches:B B
> model 57SA part #31947 D/E and Foglamp 3 position model 57SA part number
> 31946B.
>
>
>
> In my copy of the Rootes ManualB  WSM.143/144 First re-issue the wiring
> diagram shows both lights controlled by a single switch.B B  On the
> pictorial of the dash at the far left lower corner of the dash to the left
> of and below the a mmeter location B it is indicated that a switch goes
> there for auxliliary lamp (if fitted).B  However, on my car, that is where
> my heater blower switch is located and there is no location for the blower
> switch anywhere on the pictorial!
>
>
>
> I am very content to leave the B blower switch where it is and follow the
> highly knowledgeable Michael King and his information on the auxiliary
> panel.B B  However, it would seem a case could be made for putting a single
> switch controling both lights by the ammeter and putting the blower switch
> (with its metal label surround) on a separate auxiliary panel under the
dash
> bottom roll.B B  Of course, there are examples of incorrect info in the
> manual, are there not?!
>
>
>
> Just stirring the pot a little late in the day for the fun of it.B B  Your
> forgiveness please!
>
>
>
> Gene
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3568 - Release Date: 04/12/11
> 06:34:00
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From stubrennan at comcast.net  Wed Apr 13 16:00:40 2011
From: stubrennan at comcast.net (Stu Brennan)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 18:00:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] driving lights
In-Reply-To: <D79F773805CE40D2B1D518963C756575@yourze8cxvr8tt>
Message-ID: <001201cbfa26$3d4626e0$6501a8c0@Brennan>

I have a set of landing lights, 4453 is the bulb number, IIRC.  Yes they
are extremely bright, being about 100 watts, but they have really narrow
beams  Fine if you are going down a long straight road, but useless in
corners.  They are really great for getting oncoming traffic to dim
their high beams, and perhaps pull over to the side of the road until
they can see again...

They came from my friend's BMW 2002, and they've been kicking around our
gang since he sold the car back in the '80's.  They came to  me to go on
my son's jeep, but they're still in the box...

Stu

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Apr 13 18:12:38 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 19:12:38 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
In-Reply-To: <001201cbfa26$3d4626e0$6501a8c0@Brennan>
References: <D79F773805CE40D2B1D518963C756575@yourze8cxvr8tt>
	<001201cbfa26$3d4626e0$6501a8c0@Brennan>
Message-ID: <000001cbfa38$a9e23d40$fda6b7c0$@rr.com>

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/216060_1664239491484_14021474
96_31384935_2279758_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208278_1664239691489_14021474
96_31384936_6041616_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/207153_1664239971496_14021474
96_31384937_3867954_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/208773_1664240091499_14021474
96_31384938_8349900_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/207566_1664241131525_14021474
96_31384946_5185527_n.jpg


The engine in finally ready for the dyno now.  Have all the pieces and
parts.

I decided to just restore the original remote oil filter assembly vs making
something new or using the pathetically small spin on.  I had to move the
coil to the alt bracket.

Need to borrow a engine lift to get this baby on a engine cradle and then to
the dyno.

Due to Army business (I hate when that interferes with my hobbies), will not
be able to get the engine on the dyno till the week of the 25th.  Anyone
want to venture on the power developed?

Duke
B382002037

From sganz at pacbell.net  Wed Apr 13 22:21:11 2011
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2011 21:21:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
In-Reply-To: <000001cbfa38$a9e23d40$fda6b7c0$@rr.com>
References: <D79F773805CE40D2B1D518963C756575@yourze8cxvr8tt>
	<001201cbfa26$3d4626e0$6501a8c0@Brennan>
	<000001cbfa38$a9e23d40$fda6b7c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <380276.22986.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Duke -

Awesome job, looks great! 

I'll put myself on the board at 447Hp as
my guess ;)

Sandy




________________________________
From: Samouce's
<wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, April 13, 2011
5:12:38 PM
Subject: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/216060_1664239491484_14021474
96_31384935_2279758_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208278_1664239691489_14021474
96_31384936_6041616_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/207153_1664239971496_14021474
96_31384937_3867954_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/208773_1664240091499_14021474
96_31384938_8349900_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/207566_1664241131525_14021474
96_31384946_5185527_n.jpg


The engine in finally ready for the dyno now. 
Have all the pieces and
parts.

I decided to just restore the original remote
oil filter assembly vs making
something new or using the pathetically small
spin on.  I had to move the
coil to the alt bracket.

Need to borrow a engine
lift to get this baby on a engine cradle and then to
the dyno.

Due to Army
business (I hate when that interferes with my hobbies), will not
be able to
get the engine on the dyno till the week of the 25th.  Anyone
want to venture
on the power developed?

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Thu Apr 14 08:52:03 2011
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:52:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
In-Reply-To: <000001cbfa38$a9e23d40$fda6b7c0$@rr.com>
References: <D79F773805CE40D2B1D518963C756575@yourze8cxvr8tt>
	<001201cbfa26$3d4626e0$6501a8c0@Brennan>
	<000001cbfa38$a9e23d40$fda6b7c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbfab3$851fb9d0$8f5f2d70$@com>

Looks pretty mean. - nice

-Will

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2011 8:13 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!

The engine in finally ready for the dyno now.  Have all the pieces and
parts.

I decided to just restore the original remote oil filter assembly vs making
something new or using the pathetically small spin on.  I had to move the
coil to the alt bracket.

Need to borrow a engine lift to get this baby on a engine cradle and then to
the dyno.

Due to Army business (I hate when that interferes with my hobbies), will not
be able to get the engine on the dyno till the week of the 25th.  Anyone
want to venture on the power developed?

Duke
B382002037

From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net  Thu Apr 14 11:28:51 2011
From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 10:28:51 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers United Registration
Message-ID: <693DA2CBEC5A41B6BF8331E5CB484BB6@BUCK>

The Early Registration period for Tigers United XXXIII in Long Beach CA ends
in two weeks on May 1st.

The Tigers United Committee gives full participants who register early a $20
dollar discount (about 15%). Now is the time to take advantage of this offer.

The registration form as well as registration details are available on the
Tigers United section of the CAT Forum under "TU Registration".
http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/forumdisplay.php?f=34

Save money! Register now.

Buck Trippel

From milward at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr 14 15:06:56 2011
From: milward at roadrunner.com (Bill Rogers Motorsport Memories)
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 14:06:56 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Driving Lights
Message-ID: <CBE9074CB33F4624A0BFDAD512A48D9E@BillPC>

When we attended SUNI at Rapid City, part of the program was a sunset ceremony
at Mount Rushmore, which meant driving back down the mountain using Rootes
issue period correct sealed beam headlights. I felt that was dangerous and
resolved to upgrade the lighting on the Tiger. Ours is a pretty stock driver
rather than a show queen so I have no difficulty making upgrades. I don't cut
and drill and I keep the old parts, but I replaced the headlights with Hella
quartz lights from Moss and added a Lucas (Moss repro) SLR576 5" Spot on the
driver's side and a similar SFT576 Fog on the passenger side. These are period
correct and from my experience in the 60's UK, were probably more common than
Rootes branded items - the factory rally cars used them anyway since they were
better.

The tricky bit was finding a set of handed Rootes brackets for them that mount
to the bumper brackets; they jog over to clear the overriders and the hood
when open. For some reason one side is quite common but the other is rare. The
fog has a housing for a headlight bulb with dim (fog) and high beam
filaments.

I used relays and a two position lighting switch. I mounted the switch in the
center hole in the dash; posiition 1-  fog, position 2 - spot plus fog high
beam. While I was at it I replaced the turn signal switch with one that has
the headlight flash feature and another relay.

Bill Rogers

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Thu Apr 14 20:49:01 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 02:49:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] 1/2 inch or 12mm wheel studs
In-Reply-To: <1269348590.286079.1302835720274.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <618531599.286098.1302835741540.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I am looking to install 1/2 inch or 12mm studs.I want to keep my existing hubs
with their 7/16 inchB studs and get a separate set ofB  hubs for the
largerB studs. I know the front hubs are the same as for a Series IV- V
Alpine.B B  Are the rears also the same? I have kept my oem 13 inch wheels.All
in case some day I can go b ack if I ever wanted to.



I would appreciate the benefit of the experience of others who have made this
type of change.I understand thereB are clearance issues as to size of head and
knurl .What sizes will work? Which is better,B screw-in or press-in studs? Any
particular brandsB recommended or otherwise? Do 12mm studs work okay with
wheels drilled for 1/2 studs (the std to metric conversion is pretty
close!).Anything else to consider?



Thanks in advance for any and all guidance!Gene

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Apr 15 07:30:14 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:30:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
Message-ID: <BANLkTikxXrztEeEqQbQLr-Xm6XHyGgqchA@mail.gmail.com>

Good Morning all,

I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
convert to manual brakes.

The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What I'd
like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.

So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car without
breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I was
young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.

Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?

Tom

' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Apr 15 08:24:17 2011
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:24:17 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] 1/2 inch or 12mm wheel studs
In-Reply-To: <618531599.286098.1302835741540.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1269348590.286079.1302835720274.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<618531599.286098.1302835741540.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405E2FE0AD9@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

I've used ARP/Mark Williams and Moroso threaded studs, and Moroso press-in
studs. Either one (threaded or press-in) will work fine as long as you install
them correctly; the threaded studs typically require a washer under the
shoulder and the hub so that the fillet on the underside of the head can clear
the threads. ARP makes specific note of this in their installation
instructions.

12mm studs are only 1mm larger diameter than 7/16 studs, so they will probably
even work with wheels originally designed for 7/16 studs and taper nuts, but
you run the risk of having someone, that doesn't realize you have metric
studs, inadvertently thread on the improper lugnuts.

The recommended installation torque for the threaded studs I used was
something like 90 ft-lb, which is required to make sure that the stud doesn't
inadvertently thread itself into the hub as you're driving. I had Doug
Jennings' (Tiger Auto, in Dayton OH) machinist drill and thread a new set of
hubs with 1/2-20 threads. Not cheap, but bombproof.

The most fiddly bit with press-in studs is the pressing in part. You can use a
large-body 1/2" nut and a washer stack to pull the stud into the hub;
alternatively you can use a large bench vise or a hydraulic press, but with
either of those you have to ensure that it goes in straight.

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of genepadgett at comcast.net
> Sent: April 14, 2011 8:49 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] 1/2 inch or 12mm wheel studs
>
> I am looking to install 1/2 inch or 12mm studs.I want to keep my
> existing hubs
> with their 7/16 inchB studs and get a separate set ofB  hubs for the
> largerB studs. I know the front hubs are the same as for a Series IV- V
> Alpine.B B  Are the rears also the same? I have kept my oem 13 inch
> wheels.All
> in case some day I can go b ack if I ever wanted to.
>
>
>
> I would appreciate the benefit of the experience of others who have
> made this
> type of change.I understand thereB are clearance issues as to size of
> head and
> knurl .What sizes will work? Which is better,B screw-in or press-in
> studs? Any
> particular brandsB recommended or otherwise? Do 12mm studs work okay
> with
> wheels drilled for 1/2 studs (the std to metric conversion is pretty
> close!).Anything else to consider?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for any and all guidance!Gene
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>


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From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Apr 15 11:06:21 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 10:06:21 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
References: <BANLkTikxXrztEeEqQbQLr-Xm6XHyGgqchA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DABEAD9B10C04D3EBEEB4F7558B26762@student2>

Tom,
Not sure what is out there in the Wilwood line and the like.  A number of 
people have used the older Datsun (Nissan) M/C for its top/bottom bolt 
configuration. Some have used an older Mazda (and thus Ford Ranger) M/C. 
Most of these M/C's came with 11/16" bores. A lot of these also came on 
booster cars.  So, it takes some adaptation for a rod between the pedal and 
the M/C.

In my case installed a Datsun 610 (booster) M/C with a smaller 3/4" bore. 
I'm hoping for a lighter pedal but with enough travel.  The mounting holes 
needed minimal filing to align. For a rod I used an adjustable piece from a 
Volvo 122. The retaining washer had to be carefully ground down small enough 
to fit the back of the bore, but large enough to be retained by the clip. 
Adapting lines between the Tiger's British configuration and the Japanese 
metric M/C is still a "work in progress."  This also converts from a single 
to a dual (tandem) configuration. Proportioning of the lines has yet to be 
determined.

Like most things throwing enough money at it should take care of  the 
situation. For all the rest (on a budget)... "there's Master Cylinder (card) 
adaptations."  :-)

Tom (Witt)

>
> I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
> convert to manual brakes.
>
> The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
> which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
> rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What 
> I'd
> like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
> too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.
>
> So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car 
> without
> breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I 
> was
> young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
> effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.
>
> Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> ' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Fri Apr 15 11:46:15 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 17:46:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikxXrztEeEqQbQLr-Xm6XHyGgqchA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Tom,



For what its worth, Classic Motorsports went to a 1980 Subaru twin master
cylinder in their Tiger resto project.B B  Here is the link to this part of
their project:B B 
http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1965-sunbeam-tiger/updates/4/ B 



Cheers,B  Gene




----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 8:30:14 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion

Good Morning all,

I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
convert to manual brakes.

The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What I'd
like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.

So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car without
breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I was
young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.

Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?

Tom

' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Fri Apr 15 12:46:18 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 11:46:18 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
In-Reply-To: <DABEAD9B10C04D3EBEEB4F7558B26762@student2>
References: <BANLkTikxXrztEeEqQbQLr-Xm6XHyGgqchA@mail.gmail.com>
	<DABEAD9B10C04D3EBEEB4F7558B26762@student2>
Message-ID: <4DA8927A.6040903@mayfco.com>

Interesting... in that we are so used to the Japanese building cars and 
trucks and sending them to us, this is one case where ford designed and 
built the Ranger and sent it to Japan as the Mazda B series of trucks 
and of course the Mazda version was also sold here in the US at the same 
time...go figure.

mayf
On 4/15/2011 10:06 AM, Thomas Witt wrote:
> Tom,
> Not sure what is out there in the Wilwood line and the like.  A number 
> of people have used the older Datsun (Nissan) M/C for its top/bottom 
> bolt configuration. *Some have used an older Mazda (and thus Ford 
> Ranger) M/C*. Most of these M/C's came with 11/16" bores. A lot of 
> these also came on booster cars.  So, it takes some adaptation for a 
> rod between the pedal and the M/C.
>
> In my case installed a Datsun 610 (booster) M/C with a smaller 3/4" 
> bore. I'm hoping for a lighter pedal but with enough travel.  The 
> mounting holes needed minimal filing to align. For a rod I used an 
> adjustable piece from a Volvo 122. The retaining washer had to be 
> carefully ground down small enough to fit the back of the bore, but 
> large enough to be retained by the clip. Adapting lines between the 
> Tiger's British configuration and the Japanese metric M/C is still a 
> "work in progress."  This also converts from a single to a dual 
> (tandem) configuration. Proportioning of the lines has yet to be 
> determined.
>
> Like most things throwing enough money at it should take care of  the 
> situation. For all the rest (on a budget)... "there's Master Cylinder 
> (card) adaptations."  :-)
>
> Tom (Witt)

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Apr 15 13:32:59 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 12:32:59 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6B894D4814C049FA85386EF45FCE77A7@student2>

The Subaru M/C looks just like the Datsun. Nice to know. The Datsun stuff is 
getting hard to find - at least at Pick A Part.


> Hi Tom,
>
>
>
> For what its worth, Classic Motorsports went to a 1980 Subaru twin master
> cylinder in their Tiger resto project.B B  Here is the link to this part 
> of
> their project:B B
> http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1965-sunbeam-tiger/updates/4/ B
>
>
>
> Cheers,B  Gene

From amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 15 14:32:37 2011
From: amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net (Amberly Chamberlain)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 13:32:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikxXrztEeEqQbQLr-Xm6XHyGgqchA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <842163.44934.qm@web81502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I used a 3/4 Datsun master and  upgraded my rear to RX7 disc and it stops like
a champ with good peddle feel.  Im sure there are others that have many other
set ups.

Cheers

Frank

--- On Fri, 4/15/11, Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com> wrote:

From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, April 15, 2011, 6:30 AM

Good Morning all,

I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
convert to manual brakes.

The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What I'd
like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.

So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car without
breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I was
young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.

Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?

Tom

' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net

From bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com  Fri Apr 15 16:28:18 2011
From: bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com (bob webb)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 18:28:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
References: <842163.44934.qm@web81502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D28060D164BE4F47A86F218016A4598F@yourze8cxvr8tt>

my 69 fastback has great brakes, but sunbeam used an odd set up starting in 
1968. it has a lockheed dual master with a lockheed booster. the booster is 
only connected to the front brakes. sounds odd but it works!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Amberly Chamberlain" <amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net>
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>; "Tom Parker" 
<tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion


>I used a 3/4 Datsun master and  upgraded my rear to RX7 disc and it stops 
>like
> a champ with good peddle feel.  Im sure there are others that have many 
> other
> set ups.
>
> Cheers
>
> Frank
>
> --- On Fri, 4/15/11, Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
> To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, April 15, 2011, 6:30 AM
>
> Good Morning all,
>
> I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
> convert to manual brakes.
>
> The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
> which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
> rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What 
> I'd
> like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
> too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.
>
> So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car 
> without
> breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I 
> was
> young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
> effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.
>
> Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> ' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com

From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 15 17:26:47 2011
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2011 16:26:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
In-Reply-To: <D28060D164BE4F47A86F218016A4598F@yourze8cxvr8tt>
Message-ID: <128388.43470.qm@web33205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have always wondered how well that would work, since the front brakes do
most of the work.

--- On Fri, 4/15/11, bob webb <bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com> wrote:


From: bob webb <bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
To: "Amberly Chamberlain" <amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net>, "LIST TIGER"
<tigers at autox.team.net>, "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
Date: Friday, April 15, 2011, 3:28 PM


my 69 fastback has great brakes, but sunbeam used an odd set up starting in
1968. it has a lockheed dual master with a lockheed booster. the booster is
only connected to the front brakes. sounds odd but it works!
----- Original Message ----- From: "Amberly Chamberlain"
<amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net>
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>; "Tom Parker"
<tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2011 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion


> I used a 3/4 Datsun master and  upgraded my rear to RX7 disc and it stops
like
> a champ with good peddle feel.  Im sure there are others that have many
other
> set ups.
>
> Cheers
>
> Frank
>
> --- On Fri, 4/15/11, Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
> Subject: [Tigers] Manual Brake Conversion
> To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, April 15, 2011, 6:30 AM
>
> Good Morning all,
>
> I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
> convert to manual brakes.
>
> The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
> which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
> rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What I'd
> like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
> too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.
>
> So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car
without
> breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I was
> young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
> effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.
>
> Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?
>
> Tom
>
> ' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobjeanbeams at roadrunner.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From denismercier at telvic.net  Sat Apr 16 10:50:49 2011
From: denismercier at telvic.net (denis mercier)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 12:50:49 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust manifold
Message-ID: <FCB9A2AB6DD64A90B0E792FB4800792F@D7F0WHF1>

Hi Listers.
One of my friend need a driver side exhaust manifold for his MKII. If someone
have one for sale please let me know.
       Thanks !
       Denis
       B382000926LRXFE

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Apr 16 12:03:43 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 13:03:43 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust manifold
In-Reply-To: <FCB9A2AB6DD64A90B0E792FB4800792F@D7F0WHF1>
References: <FCB9A2AB6DD64A90B0E792FB4800792F@D7F0WHF1>
Message-ID: <000001cbfc60$a0483da0$e0d8b8e0$@rr.com>

Same one that can be found on a Falcon.

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of denis mercier
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 11:51 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Cc: Benoit Martel
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust manifold

Hi Listers.
One of my friend need a driver side exhaust manifold for his MKII. If
someone
have one for sale please let me know.
       Thanks !
       Denis
       B382000926LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sat Apr 16 16:13:03 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2011 18:13:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust manifold
In-Reply-To: <000001cbfc60$a0483da0$e0d8b8e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <6A866E08C39B4B9891D979F282208427@ronpc1>

	The Ford Parts List # is C3DZ-9431-A	LH exhaust manifold
This is a Falcon exhaust manifold.

The casting # on the manifold is C3DE-9431A; here is a picture of one.
http://www.mustangtek.com/exhaust/C3DE-9431-A.html

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 2:04 PM
To: 'denis mercier'; tigers at autox.team.net
Cc: 'Benoit Martel'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust manifold


Same one that can be found on a Falcon.

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of denis mercier
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 11:51 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Cc: Benoit Martel
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust manifold

Hi Listers.
One of my friend need a driver side exhaust manifold for his MKII. If
someone have one for sale please let me know.
       Thanks !
       Denis
       B382000926LRXFE _______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3575 - Release Date: 04/15/11
06:34:00

From wwwdg at webtv.net  Sat Apr 16 19:47:17 2011
From: wwwdg at webtv.net (David or Gary)
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 01:47:17 GMT
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust manifold
Message-ID: <BAY148-ds9487E9DD2452C7B70CD9DADAE0@phx.gbl>

Hi, left aligned. Thank You, David

From wwwdg at webtv.net  Sat Apr 16 19:47:59 2011
From: wwwdg at webtv.net (David or Gary)
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 01:47:59 GMT
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
Message-ID: <BAY148-ds12D65C429A23C8E011646DADAE0@phx.gbl>


From allanballard at att.net  Mon Apr 18 16:15:19 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 18:15:19 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>

Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of gas into
the motor?

My new motor spun a cam bearing; the rebuilder said the fuel pump pumped the
gas tank dry, into
the motor.

I will guess that the oil thinned accordingly, and that's why it was idling at
230F, and that's why it spun a
bearing - but how could that happen...?

Would leaving the ignition switched on, or perhaps an electrical short, do
that?

I run a replacement pump from Sunbeam Classics, the version without points,
and an Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bbl carb. Both have less than 4,000 miles.

Meanwhile the new engine comes back out to receive all new bearings, possibly
will need to replace the camshaft as well.


Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

From jeff.holt7 at gmail.com  Mon Apr 18 18:06:45 2011
From: jeff.holt7 at gmail.com (Jeff Holt)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 20:06:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Wheels/Tires
Message-ID: <3DF50C39-E324-445C-BE4F-2A767729B364@gmail.com>

I sold my original Pie Wedge mags and the tires. I like the look of Panasports
and/or Minilites, but I want to go larger. I assume I can do 14's but what do
I need to do to go 15"? Low profile tires? What offsets? Can someone suggest a
good (low-priced) source?

Do I need to do anything to even go 14"?

Jeff Holt

From prmnes at verizon.net  Mon Apr 18 20:49:58 2011
From: prmnes at verizon.net (Paul Memont)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 22:49:58 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
Message-ID: <6D7BBF2E-83B9-4496-BA50-0EC94E2E7E3C@verizon.net>

The valve in the carb I would guess.
Paul

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:

> Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of gas into
> the motor?
>
> My new motor spun a cam bearing; the rebuilder said the fuel pump pumped
the
> gas tank dry, into
> the motor.
>
> I will guess that the oil thinned accordingly, and that's why it was idling
at
> 230F, and that's why it spun a
> bearing - but how could that happen...?
>
> Would leaving the ignition switched on, or perhaps an electrical short, do
> that?
>
> I run a replacement pump from Sunbeam Classics, the version without points,
> and an Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bbl carb. Both have less than 4,000 miles.
>
> Meanwhile the new engine comes back out to receive all new bearings,
possibly
> will need to replace the camshaft as well.
>
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/prmnes at verizon.net

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Mon Apr 18 20:54:43 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 02:54:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <579014598.117832.1303181661526.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1965242919.117864.1303181683612.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Allan, my guess is that its at least partly aB carb float shutoff problem. As
I understand it the SU pumps supply fuel "on demand". So if the bowls fill and
the shutoff valves do not shut off the flow, the pump will keep pumping.B B 
Obviously, that would not explain a situation where the key was off and the
pump kept pumping, but you probably would have heard it continuing to tick if
that was the case.Perhaps it is wired in a way that has power to it directly
rather than through the switch?



Those are the first two things I would check anyway. Hope it turns out to be
an easy fix.



Gene





---- Original Message -----
From: "Allan Ballard" <allanballard at att.net>
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 5:15:19 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question

Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of gas into
the motor?

My new motor spun a cam bearing; the rebuilder said the fuel pump pumped the
gas tank dry, into
the motor.

I will guess that the oil thinned accordingly, and that's why it was idling at
230F, and that's why it spun a
bearing - but how could that happen...?

Would leaving the ignition switched on, or perhaps an electrical short, do
that?

I run a replacement pump from Sunbeam Classics, the version without points,
and an Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bbl carb. Both have less than 4,000 miles.

Meanwhile the new engine comes back out to receive all new bearings, possibly
will need to replace the camshaft as well.


Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Apr 18 21:34:07 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 21:34:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Well, shucks
Message-ID: <20110419033407.BF7342E09B@bradakis.com>

That wasn't nice.  Had a series of power bumps here at the house over
the weekend that messed with my computers, like the main Team.Net
server.  That old Dell had been rock solid reliable, with an uptime of
over 425 days.  Oh well.  Of course my computer troubles are nothing
at all compared to the tornado havoc over the weekend.  Hopefully no
listers were seriously affected.  I still remember what damage can be
done by twisters from my years in the Midwest.

When I did get the machines back up and running again a few things
didn't quite work out, some software failed to start as it should.
So you may have noticed no Team.Net email for a while.  I was at work
all day so I didn't notice until this evening.  Sorry.  We should be
back in business now, though.

Perhaps last week when I posted about 20 years of Team.Net I should
have put in a pitch for some donations to acquire some newer, more
stable hardware ( bigger UPS ) and some upgraded software.  I
certainly did recieve some donations, will hopefully get around to
thanking folks in a day or two.

So if you have a few bucks laying around and feel like helping to keep
this Team.Net experiment around for another 20 years, feel free to visit
http://www.team.net/donate.html - wait, I better update that file, the
FAX machine is printing blank faxes, another bit of hardware I'll likely
have to replace.  Computers can be so much fun.

Anyway, Team.Net email, forums and web pages should all be back to
mostly normal, thank you for your patience.

mjb.

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Mon Apr 18 21:38:26 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 20:38:26 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
Message-ID: <B603EC5F0A004F67B1AD82A0BF2836AF@student2>

Once you get beyond a few gallons it would seem the gas would flow out of an 
opening (like a valve cover breather).  Also you would likely smell it - 
even the vapors could have made the engine rich enough to stall the car.

Do you have evidence of this account or is the engine builder trying to 
shift the blame??? I'd ask the builder where the gas got into the engine. If 
he states from the fuel pump (like its an attached to the block mechanical 
pump) I think you caught the guy.  Lastly I'd think you would loose a rod 
bearing before a cam bearing. Maybe I'm just skeptical, but something just 
isn't adding up.

Tom 

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Apr 18 21:48:14 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 23:48:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
Message-ID: <BE50DCE9D7F14E659E0F0830F4D1A504@ronpc1>

Allan
	The stock fuel pump is an on demand type electrical fuel pump.
When the pressure in the line reaches a certain point the pump shuts off.
The floats in the carb determine if there is a demand for fuel.   If a float
no longer floats or it is hung up somehow in the fuel bowl the pump will
pump fuel until it runs out of liquid or burns out.

	Yes leaving the ignition ON would also leave the fuel pump ON.   You
need to check the feed wire to the pump to make sure it is not always 12V;
it must be switched by the ignition switch.  I would think you would hear
the pump always running if there was always 12V to the pump.  The ignition
switch could also be bad or there are poor connections there.

	You also need to check the carb floats for a problem.   I don't
think there is any other path for the fuel in this type carb but I'm not
that familiar with your carb.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 6:15 PM
To: LIST TIGER
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question


Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of gas into
the motor?

My new motor spun a cam bearing; the rebuilder said the fuel pump pumped the
gas tank dry, into the motor.

I will guess that the oil thinned accordingly, and that's why it was idling
at 230F, and that's why it spun a bearing - but how could that happen...?

Would leaving the ignition switched on, or perhaps an electrical short, do
that?

I run a replacement pump from Sunbeam Classics, the version without points,
and an Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bbl carb. Both have less than 4,000 miles.

Meanwhile the new engine comes back out to receive all new bearings,
possibly will need to replace the camshaft as well.


Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3575 - Release Date: 04/18/11
06:37:00

From awtiger at cox.net  Tue Apr 19 21:55:15 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 22:55:15 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
Message-ID: <5D9BC614D0E44267983A5B2393CD27D0@awtigerPC>

Something doesn't sound right here, Allan.  Under normal circumstances, that 
couldn't happen, and by "normal circumstances," I mean someone paying 
attention to what they are doing.  I admittedly don't have any experience 
with an Edelbrock carb, but I'm sure that they're not too much different 
than a Holley.  For a Holley to flood like that, the needle and seat would 
have to be stuck wide open and, if anyone were watching what they were 
doing, they'd see gas bubbling up out of the float bowl vent tubes.  Sure, I 
suppose some of the gas would run down the throat of the carb, but it would 
also be running over the top of the carb and down into the valleys on top of 
the intake.  Did your engine builder just start the engine, let it run and 
walk away and give it no supervision whatsoever???

The other point of interest is if it were flowing that much fuel into the 
engine, there's no way it would idle at all.  Are they saying that it did 
this while it was running or after they shut it off?  Did they not check the 
oil level of the motor after initial start-up???  The bottom line is that 
the pump would continue to keep pressure on the system, provided that power 
was still going to it after the engine was shut off.  However, the needle 
and seat is what shuts the fuel flow off to the motor when the bowls fill. 
I'd be very hard pressed to believe that no one either saw the fuel spilling 
out of the vent tubes or at least smelled it.  Are the folks doing your 
rebuild reputable?  Do they have Ford V8 experience?  Personally, I think 
there's more to this than what they are telling you.

Best of luck,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Ballard" <allanballard at att.net>
To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 5:15 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question


> Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of gas 
> into
> the motor?
>
> My new motor spun a cam bearing; the rebuilder said the fuel pump pumped 
> the
> gas tank dry, into
> the motor.
>
> I will guess that the oil thinned accordingly, and that's why it was 
> idling at
> 230F, and that's why it spun a
> bearing - but how could that happen...?
>
> Would leaving the ignition switched on, or perhaps an electrical short, do
> that?
>
> I run a replacement pump from Sunbeam Classics, the version without 
> points,
> and an Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bbl carb. Both have less than 4,000 miles.
>
> Meanwhile the new engine comes back out to receive all new bearings, 
> possibly
> will need to replace the camshaft as well.
>
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger at cox.net

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Mon Apr 18 22:15:27 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 04:15:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Wheels/Tires
In-Reply-To: <815962385.120826.1303186281362.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1453779791.120923.1303186527541.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: genepadgett at comcast.net
To: "Jeff Holt" <jeff.holt7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 11:11:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Wheels/Tires







Hi Jeff, you can actually go to 16's as I have, it all depends on what you
want. When I was looking for wheels, I dug a lot of info out of the
tigersunited.com web site.What will fit depends in part on what rim width you
want.B  A narrower tire and rim in front makes for easier steering.B B B  A
wider tire and rim makes for more rubber on the road and better cornering
grip,B but heavier steering.B B 



If you want wider all around, are you willing to do some minor valance and
fender lip trimming? BTW a 15 inch wheelB is going to put your A arms right at
the edge of the rim at some point in the defection arc.So wheel weights need
to be inboard of the rim edge, not on the rim edge if your wheel choice get
really close inboard.B  With 16 inchers the a-arm tucks inside under the rim
and is less a problem.B With 16 inchers, I run 205/45's in the front.B B  That
low profile tire is about 23 inches in diameter, which is close to oem
stockB wheel and tire combination diameter.Keep in mind that the size in the
back will affect your speedo accuracy.B 



For me, the starting place was to look for the type and brands of tires I
wanted.I spent a lot of time on the tirerack site pouring over test
results.The number of tires available get larger as the wheel diameter gets
bigger.



Once I found the tire(s) I would want, the size availability helped dictate
the diameter of wheel.B  Since offset changes with rim width, one constant to
work with is backside measurement. That is the distance from the hub
mountingB face to the outer edge of the inside rim.You need to keep that no
more than about 4.75 inches, per the tigersunited info, otherwise you have
a-arm andB rim interference in front.B That should allow you to fit a 7 inch
rim on the front with a little trimming of the lower valence lip in the wheel
well.AB 6 inch rim having that same backspace, and a correspondingly narrower
tire,B should will fitB without trimming, but I will leave it for others to
confirm.B B  With a 4.75 inch back space you should be okay in the back as
well.B B  Just remember that tires have a bit bigger cross-section than the
width of the rim so you need to consider that in looking at clearances to the
springs back there.



Not sure what fits your pricing parameters, but one source of minilite look
alikes is www.vtoperformance.com B with whom I have no affiliation.Got my 16
inchers from them when they were Propack Racing.They also have some Sunbeam
Alpine listed wheels on ebay as we speak.If you contact them be sure and ask
what size studs they are drilled for. Mine were drilled for 1/2 inch studs,
which makes changing a tires a hassle to get the nuts centered in the holes.



Hope some of that helps!B  Gene




.B  ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Holt" <jeff.holt7 at gmail.com>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 7:06:45 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Wheels/Tires

I sold my original Pie Wedge mags and the tires. I like the look of Panasports
and/or Minilites, but I want to go larger. I assume I can do 14's but what do
I need to do to go 15"? Low profile tires? What offsets? Can someone suggest a
good (low-priced) source?

Do I need to do anything to even go 14"?

Jeff Holt
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net

From allanballard at att.net  Tue Apr 19 03:04:41 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 05:04:41 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <5D9BC614D0E44267983A5B2393CD27D0@awtigerPC>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
	<5D9BC614D0E44267983A5B2393CD27D0@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <07422728-B60E-47E9-887B-26BB447F9B6F@att.net>

Thanks folks.

I should find out more, this morning.  At least I feel better prepared to deal
with this.

Once before at that shop a mechanic left the ignition switch on and the
battery was almost dead when I arrived  so
I wonder, why no mention of a dead battery this time.

I further wonder whether the pump is really shorted to "on,' and working with
the ignition switch off.  Pouring in a gallon of gas should test that
"theory."

I'm curious as well regarding how long would it take to push any significant
volume through the system, in this manner.

OTOH Murphy's Law being always in effect...

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine


On Apr 19, 2011, at 11:55 PM, awtiger wrote:

> Something doesn't sound right here, Allan.  Under normal circumstances, that
couldn't happen, and by "normal circumstances," I mean someone paying
attention to what they are doing.  I admittedly don't have any experience with
an Edelbrock carb, but I'm sure that they're not too much different than a
Holley.  For a Holley to flood like that, the needle and seat would have to be
stuck wide open and, if anyone were watching what they were doing, they'd see
gas bubbling up out of the float bowl vent tubes.  Sure, I suppose some of the
gas would run down the throat of the carb, but it would also be running over
the top of the carb and down into the valleys on top of the intake.  Did your
engine builder just start the engine, let it run and walk away and give it no
supervision whatsoever???
>
> The other point of interest is if it were flowing that much fuel into the
engine, there's no way it would idle at all.  Are they saying that it did this
while it was running or after they shut it off?  Did they not check the oil
level of the motor after initial start-up???  The bottom line is that the pump
would continue to keep pressure on the system, provided that power was still
going to it after the engine was shut off.  However, the needle and seat is
what shuts the fuel flow off to the motor when the bowls fill. I'd be very
hard pressed to believe that no one either saw the fuel spilling out of the
vent tubes or at least smelled it.  Are the folks doing your rebuild
reputable?  Do they have Ford V8 experience?  Personally, I think there's more
to this than what they are telling you.
>
> Best of luck,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE
> TAC #740
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Ballard" <allanballard at att.net>
> To: "LIST TIGER" <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 5:15 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
>
>
>> Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of gas
into
>> the motor?
>>
>> My new motor spun a cam bearing; the rebuilder said the fuel pump pumped
the
>> gas tank dry, into
>> the motor.
>>
>> I will guess that the oil thinned accordingly, and that's why it was idling
at
>> 230F, and that's why it spun a
>> bearing - but how could that happen...?
>>
>> Would leaving the ignition switched on, or perhaps an electrical short, do
>> that?
>>
>> I run a replacement pump from Sunbeam Classics, the version without
points,
>> and an Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bbl carb. Both have less than 4,000 miles.
>>
>> Meanwhile the new engine comes back out to receive all new bearings,
possibly
>> will need to replace the camshaft as well.
>>
>>
>> Allan Ballard
>> Mk1a Tiger
>> SIV Alpine
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger at cox.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Apr 19 06:39:56 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 08:39:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <07422728-B60E-47E9-887B-26BB447F9B6F@att.net>
Message-ID: <E45D23B745A1482C84A135C82C44BED7@ronpc1>

Allan
	Delivery rate of the stock fuel pump is 15 gallons per hour so in
theory the pump can empty the fuel tanks in less than an hour.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 5:05 AM
To: LIST TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel pump question


Thanks folks.

I should find out more, this morning.  At least I feel better prepared to
deal with this.

Once before at that shop a mechanic left the ignition switch on and the
battery was almost dead when I arrived  so I wonder, why no mention of a
dead battery this time.

I further wonder whether the pump is really shorted to "on,' and working
with the ignition switch off.  Pouring in a gallon of gas should test that
"theory."

I'm curious as well regarding how long would it take to push any significant
volume through the system, in this manner.

OTOH Murphy's Law being always in effect...

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

From mark.rense at ge.com  Tue Apr 19 07:07:17 2011
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE, Appl & Light))
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 09:07:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

Allan,
You mentioned "gallons" of gas would have been pumped into the engine.
You did not mention whether the car sat for hours, days or weeks before
the tanks were found dry, so let's look at the facts we have:
1. The fuel pump would have to be on and a float stuck open to allow a
steady stream of gas to flow. I have run the Edelbrock (Carter) carbs on
many engines, have never had a float issue unless the line pressure
exceeded 8 psi. The original SU fuel pump can flow about 35 gallons per
hour, but they only develop about 2-3 psi at the carb, so it would take
a sizeable leak to pump your tanks dry even if the ignition was on for
several days.
2. The carb would have overflowed and spilled gas through the exterior
vents onto the engine, and by your comments of gallons of gas, the
overflow would have certainly been noticed.
3. Edelbrocks use compound needle jets in the primary circuit, very hard
to flow much fuel through those into the carb, and while the secondary
jets are open and might leak, I've never seen or heard of it happening.
4. Even if all that gas somehow managed to flow through the circuits and
down into the manifold, the only way into the crankcase from there is
past the rings or past the valve guides. If gallons of gas were pumped
in there, certainly one of the cylinders would have been hydraulically
locked (filled with incompressible fluid, i.e.  gas) and the intake
manifold would have filled up as well. The engine would have never
started and might have broken a rod trying.
5. The internal volume of a 260/289/302 is not that big, probably less
than three gallons total if you assume an oil pan already full of oil.
If you had more than that in the tanks, where did the rest go?? Even if
all the leaked gas got past the rings and into the crankcase the engine
would not turn over.
6. Per someone else's comments, a cam bearing is the last bearing I
would suspect to go if the oil had been diluted with gas. A big-end rod
bearing would be the primary suspect.

Now without more details it's hard to get an exact diagnosis, but there
would have to be a whole lot of wrongs lined up just right to create
this mishap. Yes it could be possible but the probability is very low. I
would be suspicious of the guy who told you this. I would also check
every bearing in that engine for damage.

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 6:15 PM
To: LIST TIGER
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question

Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of gas
into the motor?

My new motor spun a cam bearing; the rebuilder said the fuel pump pumped
the gas tank dry, into the motor.

I will guess that the oil thinned accordingly, and that's why it was
idling at 230F, and that's why it spun a bearing - but how could that
happen...?

Would leaving the ignition switched on, or perhaps an electrical short,
do that?

I run a replacement pump from Sunbeam Classics, the version without
points, and an Edlebrock 500 cfm 4 bbl carb. Both have less than 4,000
miles.

Meanwhile the new engine comes back out to receive all new bearings,
possibly will need to replace the camshaft as well.


Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark.rense at ge.com

From Carmods at aol.com  Tue Apr 19 07:43:59 2011
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 09:43:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
Message-ID: <9542f.2d259183.3adeeb9f@aol.com>

allanballard at att.net writes:
 
Under what circumstances would a stock fuel pump - pump gallons of  gas into
the motor?



Allen,
 
Here are two possibilities for your fuel leak problem.  
 
A few years ago I opened my garage and found the floor covered and  the 
Tiger engine wet and filled with gasoline. The ignition was off and  the float 
valve was new and working. What I eventually found was that the gas  tank 
vent was plugged. As the garage heated up the pressure in the un vented  tank 
went up it over powered the float valve. In a Holly, that is about 10  psi. 
After mopping and airing out the garage and changing the engine oil, I  
drilled a small hole in the gas cap so it will always vent. The cork seal on  
most old caps will leak enough to vent out, but I had found a new cap with a  
good seal.
 
At an earlier time, I had another situation. I was changing the  exhaust on 
my Tiger. I had the rear end jacked up as high as I could and  also had a 
full tank of gas. The carburetor valve evidently had a  slow leak that wasn't 
noticeable during normal driving, but with the constant  pressure of the 
fuel above the carburetor, it leaked out over time. 
 
John Logan

From mgman71 at comcast.net  Tue Apr 19 09:56:40 2011
From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 15:56:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Cylinder Lock Plates
Message-ID: <9000836.112956.1303228600134.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have another question. I am in need of the lock plates that hold in the rear wheel cylinders does anyone know where I can set 2 sets and if not what other car uses them. I have tried our suppliers and the part is N.L.A HELP. Thanks George Re 

From allanballard at att.net  Tue Apr 19 10:07:12 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 12:07:12 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Cylinder Lock Plates
In-Reply-To: <9000836.112956.1303228600134.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <9000836.112956.1303228600134.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <04547BE6-73DD-45E3-9735-07EC6C29253B@att.net>

I believe that Sunbeam Specialties carries an item that works but is not a
copy of the factory
pieces.

If not them, I'd check with Classic Sunbeam.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine <Holbay upgrade underway>

On Apr 19, 2011, at 11:56 AM, George Re wrote:

> I have another question. I am in need of the lock plates that hold in the
rear wheel cylinders does anyone know where I can set 2 sets and if not what
other car uses them. I have tried our suppliers and the part is N.L.A HELP.
Thanks George Re
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Tue Apr 19 18:54:40 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 17:54:40 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2>

Allan,

  There are just too many red flags to pin the cam bearing damage on a crank 
case full of gasoline diluted oil. Is it a small possibility (?) - yes, but 
very, very small.
As it has been pointed out the gas would have likely leaked out the 
carburetor and been noticeable on the ground.  If per chance fuel had 
actually leaked into the engine it likely would not have started either 
because it was hydro-locked or been ridiculously rich. In any of the cases 
the smell of gas would have been noticeable.

If the cam bearing was noticeable bad, what was the condition of the other 
bearing and for that matter the cam itself? To find that out the engine had 
to be opened up.  If only the cam bearing is bad it seems to indicate 
improper installation. That being either the bearing was misaligned (though 
getting the cam in would have made that noticeable) OR more likely the oil 
hole was not aligned with the galley. I would press the matter before 
accepting it as "your" problem.

Tom (Witt)

From cmeinel464 at aol.com  Tue Apr 19 19:29:46 2011
From: cmeinel464 at aol.com (cmeinel464 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 21:29:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
Message-ID: <8CDCD119164FE0F-1F18-15169@webmail-d035.sysops.aol.com>

http://giftbag.co.cc/597d

From gabbardalex at att.net  Tue Apr 19 19:31:43 2011
From: gabbardalex at att.net (Gabbard Gabbard)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 18:31:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2>
Message-ID: <406486.65766.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hello all,
A crankcase full of gasoline seems odd. How does a carb of any type
overflowing 
for any reason not produce hydrostatic lock in a cylinder with
the quantity of 
fuel described? What path to the oil pan is open to gasoline
through the carb? 
In a properly built system; there is no such path. I think
gasoline in the oil 
is not the problem leading to cam bearing destruction.
Alex Gabbard   




________________________________
From: Thomas Witt
<atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, April 19, 2011
8:54:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel pump question

Allan,

There are just
too many red flags to pin the cam bearing damage on a crank case 
full of
gasoline diluted oil. Is it a small possibility (?) - yes, but very, 
very
small.
As it has been pointed out the gas would have likely leaked out the
carburetor 
and been noticeable on the ground.  If per chance fuel had
actually leaked into 
the engine it likely would not have started either
because it was hydro-locked 
or been ridiculously rich. In any of the cases
the smell of gas would have been 
noticeable.

If the cam bearing was
noticeable bad, what was the condition of the other 
bearing and for that
matter the cam itself? To find that out the engine had to 
be opened up.  If
only the cam bearing is bad it seems to indicate improper 
installation. That
being either the bearing was misaligned (though getting the 
cam in would have
made that noticeable) OR more likely the oil hole was not 
aligned with the
galley. I would press the matter before accepting it as "your" 
problem.

Tom
(Witt)
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gabbardalex at att.net

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Tue Apr 19 20:07:37 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 19:07:37 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2>
	<406486.65766.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD@student2>

 I'm still curious to know if the builder knew the engine was going in a 
Tiger... and that the Tiger uses an electrical fuel pump.  In my first post 
I eluded to this. I mean if the builder thinks gas leaked in to the block at 
the mechanical fuel pump then he's caught right there.

 I think Allan needs to ask questions of the builder in a ordered way so as 
not to tip him off, but see the builders "logic" or lack of.  In situations 
like this people often say, "something smells fishy."  It this case 
something doesn't smell "gassy."

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 


  Hello all,
  A crankcase full of gasoline seems odd. How does a carb of any type 
overflowing for any reason not produce hydrostatic lock in a cylinder with 
the quantity of fuel described? What path to the oil pan is open to gasoline 
through the carb? In a properly built system; there is no such path. I think 
gasoline in the oil is not the problem leading to cam bearing destruction.
  Alex Gabbard



  Allan,

  There are just too many red flags to pin the cam bearing damage on a crank 
case full of gasoline diluted oil. Is it a small possibility (?) - yes, but 
very, very small.
  As it has been pointed out the gas would have likely leaked out the 
carburetor and been noticeable on the ground.  If per chance fuel had 
actually leaked into the engine it likely would not have started either 
because it was hydro-locked or been ridiculously rich. In any of the cases 
the smell of gas would have been noticeable.

  If the cam bearing was noticeable bad, what was the condition of the other 
bearing and for that matter the cam itself? To find that out the engine had 
to be opened up.  If only the cam bearing is bad it seems to indicate 
improper installation. That being either the bearing was misaligned (though 
getting the cam in would have made that noticeable) OR more likely the oil 
hole was not aligned with the galley. I would press the matter before 
accepting it as "your" problem.

  Tom (Witt)

From rande at thecia.net  Tue Apr 19 21:24:25 2011
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 23:24:25 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] cylinder lock plates
Message-ID: <4dae51e9.4cd9.0@thecia.net>

Check eBay item # 320654792674

Are these the parts you're looking for?
For those with a parts catalogue, they're part # 5041105 listed for Alpine I
through IV, and presumably Tiger.

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Apr 19 22:10:39 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 00:10:39 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] cylinder lock plates
In-Reply-To: <4dae51e9.4cd9.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <AFBEDE263D524552A78737592937195C@ronpc1>

According to the Parts List those are 2 of the 3 parts you need per side.

5041105	Retaining plate	Series III and IV  These are the type of parts on my
Tiger.

5041106	Locking plate

There are 3 pieces that hold this style brake cylinder on each side and a
rubber boot covers the parts.

Series I and II has a slightly different set of part and the Series V
cylinder with a screw type adjuster has another set of parts.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of rande
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 11:24 PM
To: allanballard at att.net
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] cylinder lock plates


Check eBay item # 320654792674

Are these the parts you're looking for?
For those with a parts catalogue, they're part # 5041105 listed for Alpine I
through IV, and presumably Tiger.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3581 - Release Date: 04/19/11
06:34:00

From jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk  Wed Apr 20 00:11:48 2011
From: jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk (Jeff Howarth)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 07:11:48 +0100
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD@student2>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2>
	<406486.65766.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD@student2>
Message-ID: <L5qBK6JkknrNFwlA@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>

Hi Allan,


I think everyone but your engine builder is of the same opinion.

I guess the proof of the pudding is to get him to state what he is 
putting the cause down to and then put a gallon of fuel in the tanks and 
put the ignition on - if you have fuel everywhere out of the carb and 
down the inlet you can check further. If the fuel pump stops on pressure 
build up and the gas stays in the tank then its over to him.



Jeff




In message <DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD at student2>, Thomas Witt 
<atwittsend at verizon.net> writes
>I'm still curious to know if the builder knew the engine was going in a 
>Tiger... and that the Tiger uses an electrical fuel pump.  In my first 
>post I eluded to this. I mean if the builder thinks gas leaked in to 
>the block at the mechanical fuel pump then he's caught right there.
>
>I think Allan needs to ask questions of the builder in a ordered way so 
>as not to tip him off, but see the builders "logic" or lack of.  In 
>situations like this people often say, "something smells fishy."  It 
>this case something doesn't smell "gassy."
>
>Tom
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
> Hello all,
> A crankcase full of gasoline seems odd. How does a carb of any type 
>overflowing for any reason not produce hydrostatic lock in a cylinder 
>with the quantity of fuel described? What path to the oil pan is open 
>to gasoline through the carb? In a properly built system; there is no 
>such path. I think gasoline in the oil is not the problem leading to 
>cam bearing destruction.
> Alex Gabbard
>
>
>
> Allan,
>
> There are just too many red flags to pin the cam bearing damage on a 
>crank case full of gasoline diluted oil. Is it a small possibility (?) 
>- yes, but very, very small.
> As it has been pointed out the gas would have likely leaked out the 
>carburetor and been noticeable on the ground.  If per chance fuel had 
>actually leaked into the engine it likely would not have started either 
>because it was hydro-locked or been ridiculously rich. In any of the 
>cases the smell of gas would have been noticeable.
>
> If the cam bearing was noticeable bad, what was the condition of the 
>other bearing and for that matter the cam itself? To find that out the 
>engine had to be opened up.  If only the cam bearing is bad it seems to 
>indicate improper installation. That being either the bearing was 
>misaligned (though getting the cam in would have made that noticeable) 
>OR more likely the oil hole was not aligned with the galley. I would 
>press the matter before accepting it as "your" problem.
>
> Tom (Witt)
>_______________________________________________
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk
>
>

-- 
Jeff Howarth

From jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk  Wed Apr 20 01:05:36 2011
From: jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk (Jeff Howarth)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 08:05:36 +0100
Subject: [Tigers] Tom Hartmen
Message-ID: <B2DzZcKAXorNFw14@v8tiger.demon.co.uk>

Hi,

can anyone give me Tom Hartmens contact details please - Tom are you on 
the list ?


thanks

Jeff

-- 
Jeff Howarth

From jliny5 at cox.net  Wed Apr 20 06:46:56 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 08:46:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
Message-ID: <39EA50DCEDBC4EDC95FC6A27C3BB06B8@JPC>

Hi All,

I am afraid this one is going to show exactly how new I am to Tiger
ownership...

Yesterday I noticed my passenger side brake light was out. Driver's side is
working, so I figured it was a bulb. I have extras on hand...simple enough to
change...not so fast.

Workshop manual says get tp bulb holder from back through trunk. I reached in
and removed the female connector from the back of the bulb holder but I can
not seem to get the bulb holder out to get at the bulb. It does not seem to
budge either by unscrewing or pulling. Since I have limited knowledge I was
reluctant to apply too much pressure.

I know this is pretty basic stuff...but any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Jim

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Wed Apr 20 07:00:25 2011
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary Winblad)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:00:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
In-Reply-To: <39EA50DCEDBC4EDC95FC6A27C3BB06B8@JPC>
Message-ID: <721582671.202147.1303304425145.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Jim,
Good work not forcing anything!
Early cars had inside removable sockets.
Later cars (or later lights) have external screws to remove
the plastic lenses to access the bulbs.
Welcome to Tigers!
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 12:46:56 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement

Hi All,

I am afraid this one is going to show exactly how new I am to Tiger
ownership...

Yesterday I noticed my passenger side brake light was out. Driver's side is
working, so I figured it was a bulb. I have extras on hand...simple enough to
change...not so fast.

Workshop manual says get tp bulb holder from back through trunk. I reached in
and removed the female connector from the back of the bulb holder but I can
not seem to get the bulb holder out to get at the bulb. It does not seem to
budge either by unscrewing or pulling. Since I have limited knowledge I was
reluctant to apply too much pressure.

I know this is pretty basic stuff...but any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Jim
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net

From jliny5 at cox.net  Wed Apr 20 07:09:33 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 09:09:33 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
In-Reply-To: <721582671.202147.1303304425145.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <721582671.202147.1303304425145.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E453BBFB-534C-43DD-AFC8-979168845168@cox.net>

I have a very early Mk1 (0033). There are no external screws from lens side,
only screws secured by wing nuts at top and bottom of rear lamp assembly,
inside.

Hoping I do not have to remove entire lamp to change bulb.

Thx,

Jim
Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 20, 2011, at 9:00 AM, Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jim,
> Good work not forcing anything!
> Early cars had inside removable sockets.
> Later cars (or later lights) have external screws to remove
> the plastic lenses to access the bulbs.
> Welcome to Tigers!
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 12:46:56 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am afraid this one is going to show exactly how new I am to Tiger
> ownership...
>
> Yesterday I noticed my passenger side brake light was out. Driver's side is
> working, so I figured it was a bulb. I have extras on hand...simple enough
to
> change...not so fast.
>
> Workshop manual says get tp bulb holder from back through trunk. I reached
in
> and removed the female connector from the back of the bulb holder but I can
> not seem to get the bulb holder out to get at the bulb. It does not seem to
> budge either by unscrewing or pulling. Since I have limited knowledge I was
> reluctant to apply too much pressure.
>
> I know this is pretty basic stuff...but any help is appreciated.
>
> Thanks, Jim
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Wed Apr 20 07:27:44 2011
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (Gary Winblad)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:27:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
In-Reply-To: <E453BBFB-534C-43DD-AFC8-979168845168@cox.net>
Message-ID: <434817600.203190.1303306064085.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Oh.
Well .by now parts have been mixed and matched amongst
most cars.
Don't fear removing the wingnuts and the whole light assembly.
Alot of dust and dirt accumulates inside and its always a good
time to clean them out.  Just don't drop the wingnuts or the
lockwashers or they will be REALLY hard to get back.
Once out, you can see how to remove the bulbs.
Without external screws, your bulb sockets should be removable
BUT someone might have changed your chrome base and
put hidden screws you can't access until you remove the whole
assembly.
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:09:33 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement

I have a very early Mk1 (0033). There are no external screws from lens side, only screws secured by wing nuts at top and bottom of rear lamp assembly, inside.

Hoping I do not have to remove entire lamp to change bulb.

Thx,

Jim
Sent from my iPhone

From jliny5 at cox.net  Wed Apr 20 07:36:15 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 09:36:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
In-Reply-To: <434817600.203190.1303306064085.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <434817600.203190.1303306064085.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5F55D78B-1C71-4FD1-9327-39F2DAB5CE5F@cox.net>

Thanks for the timely replies. Just the info I needed.

Thx, Jim

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 20, 2011, at 9:27 AM, Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net> wrote:

> Oh.
> Well .by now parts have been mixed and matched amongst
> most cars.
> Don't fear removing the wingnuts and the whole light assembly.
> Alot of dust and dirt accumulates inside and its always a good
> time to clean them out.  Just don't drop the wingnuts or the
> lockwashers or they will be REALLY hard to get back.
> Once out, you can see how to remove the bulbs.
> Without external screws, your bulb sockets should be removable
> BUT someone might have changed your chrome base and
> put hidden screws you can't access until you remove the whole
> assembly.
> Gary
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net>
> To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net>
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:09:33 -0000 (UTC)
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
>
> I have a very early Mk1 (0033). There are no external screws from lens side,
only screws secured by wing nuts at top and bottom of rear lamp assembly,
inside.
>
> Hoping I do not have to remove entire lamp to change bulb.
>
> Thx,
>
> Jim
> Sent from my iPhone

From awtiger at cox.net  Wed Apr 20 07:50:25 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 9:50:25 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
In-Reply-To: <E453BBFB-534C-43DD-AFC8-979168845168@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20110420095025.W9NI9.178461.imail@eastrmwml44>

Jim:

My car is a Mk1A and, therefore, has the lenses that unscrew from the outside.  However, over the years I have owned several Mk1's like yours and, if memory serves me correctly, I do believe that the bulb sockets just pull out of the housing with no twisting required.  They have little "tangs" on them that hold them tightly in place inside the taillight housing; they're tight in the housing since that is how the bulb socket is grounded.  If they haven't been out in a while, they might feel a bit stubborn, but some gentle persuasion from you will get them out without having to remove the wiring or the taillight housing.

Best of luck,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

---- James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net> wrote: 
> I have a very early Mk1 (0033). There are no external screws from lens side,
> only screws secured by wing nuts at top and bottom of rear lamp assembly,
> inside.
> 
> Hoping I do not have to remove entire lamp to change bulb.
> 
> Thx,
> 
> Jim
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Apr 20, 2011, at 9:00 AM, Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> > Jim,
> > Good work not forcing anything!
> > Early cars had inside removable sockets.
> > Later cars (or later lights) have external screws to remove
> > the plastic lenses to access the bulbs.
> > Welcome to Tigers!
> > Gary
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net>
> > To: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Sent: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 12:46:56 -0000 (UTC)
> > Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am afraid this one is going to show exactly how new I am to Tiger
> > ownership...
> >
> > Yesterday I noticed my passenger side brake light was out. Driver's side is
> > working, so I figured it was a bulb. I have extras on hand...simple enough
> to
> > change...not so fast.
> >
> > Workshop manual says get tp bulb holder from back through trunk. I reached
> in
> > and removed the female connector from the back of the bulb holder but I can
> > not seem to get the bulb holder out to get at the bulb. It does not seem to
> > budge either by unscrewing or pulling. Since I have limited knowledge I was
> > reluctant to apply too much pressure.
> >
> > I know this is pretty basic stuff...but any help is appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks, Jim
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/garywinblad at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger at cox.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Apr 20 08:43:14 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 10:43:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
In-Reply-To: <39EA50DCEDBC4EDC95FC6A27C3BB06B8@JPC>
Message-ID: <AB24ED5657084388BB59E7EB43F13053@ronpc1>

Jim
	This should give you a bit of a visual check as to which type of
bulb holder you have.

The flange of the non removable bulb holder is 1" in diameter and looks just
bigger than where the bulb holder.

The flange of the removable bulb holder is 1 3/8" in diameter; flange looks
much bigger than the bulb holder.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of James Lindner
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 8:47 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement


Hi All,

I am afraid this one is going to show exactly how new I am to Tiger
ownership...

Yesterday I noticed my passenger side brake light was out. Driver's side is
working, so I figured it was a bulb. I have extras on hand...simple enough
to change...not so fast.

Workshop manual says get tp bulb holder from back through trunk. I reached
in and removed the female connector from the back of the bulb holder but I
can not seem to get the bulb holder out to get at the bulb. It does not seem
to budge either by unscrewing or pulling. Since I have limited knowledge I
was reluctant to apply too much pressure.

I know this is pretty basic stuff...but any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Jim
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3583 - Release Date: 04/20/11
06:34:00

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Apr 20 09:00:38 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (allanballard at att.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:00:38 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD@student2>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2>
	<406486.65766.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD@student2>
Message-ID: <8FA7A999-E23F-4751-9237-BD5CF9CE56A5@att.net>

Thanks for all comments, they are very helpful. Yes, they knew it was a tiger
rebuild; they know the car already from a few repairs done there. I assume
they knew it has an electric pump after putting the motor back together and
into the car. I'll keep the list posted.

Allan Ballard


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 19, 2011, at 10:07 PM, "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net> wrote:

> I'm still curious to know if the builder knew the engine was going in a
Tiger... and that the Tiger uses an electrical fuel pump.  In my first post I
eluded to this. I mean if the builder thinks gas leaked in to the block at the
mechanical fuel pump then he's caught right there.
>
> I think Allan needs to ask questions of the builder in a ordered way so as
not to tip him off, but see the builders "logic" or lack of.  In situations
like this people often say, "something smells fishy."  It this case something
doesn't smell "gassy."
>
> Tom
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Hello all,
> A crankcase full of gasoline seems odd. How does a carb of any type
overflowing for any reason not produce hydrostatic lock in a cylinder with the
quantity of fuel described? What path to the oil pan is open to gasoline
through the carb? In a properly built system; there is no such path. I think
gasoline in the oil is not the problem leading to cam bearing destruction.
> Alex Gabbard
>
>
>
> Allan,
>
> There are just too many red flags to pin the cam bearing damage on a crank
case full of gasoline diluted oil. Is it a small possibility (?) - yes, but
very, very small.
> As it has been pointed out the gas would have likely leaked out the
carburetor and been noticeable on the ground.  If per chance fuel had actually
leaked into the engine it likely would not have started either because it was
hydro-locked or been ridiculously rich. In any of the cases the smell of gas
would have been noticeable.
>
> If the cam bearing was noticeable bad, what was the condition of the other
bearing and for that matter the cam itself? To find that out the engine had to
be opened up.  If only the cam bearing is bad it seems to indicate improper
installation. That being either the bearing was misaligned (though getting the
cam in would have made that noticeable) OR more likely the oil hole was not
aligned with the galley. I would press the matter before accepting it as
"your" problem.
>
> Tom (Witt)
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From choffman9 at cinci.rr.com  Wed Apr 20 09:33:00 2011
From: choffman9 at cinci.rr.com (Curt Hoffman)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:33:00 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <8FA7A999-E23F-4751-9237-BD5CF9CE56A5@att.net>
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2>
	<406486.65766.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD@student2>
	<8FA7A999-E23F-4751-9237-BD5CF9CE56A5@att.net>
Message-ID: <005801cbff70$3b3cee20$b1b6ca60$@cinci.rr.com>

Just as an aside, this all could be a  red herring. I had my engine built
and we failed two cams right on the startup. Actually one starting up on the
dyno for a break in and the next rebuild after about 25 miles. Turned out to
be due to using flat tappets and the new oils not being up to the task. Went
to roller rockers and Rotella T oil  and so far no issues on the 3rd
generation rebuild. 

Curt

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of allanballard at att.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 11:01 AM
To: Thomas Witt
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel pump question

Thanks for all comments, they are very helpful. Yes, they knew it was a
tiger rebuild; they know the car already from a few repairs done there. I
assume they knew it has an electric pump after putting the motor back
together and into the car. I'll keep the list posted.

Allan Ballard

From CoolVT at aol.com  Wed Apr 20 09:56:02 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:56:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
Message-ID: <24ebe.3ce78792.3ae05c12@aol.com>

Seems to me there was an article in Hot Rod Magazine a few years back  on 
bad batches of cams.  Can't remember the manufacturer or  application.
 
 
In a message dated 4/20/2011 11:38:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
choffman9 at cinci.rr.com writes:

Just as  an aside, this all could be a  red herring. I had my engine built
and  we failed two cams right on the startup. Actually one starting up on  
the
dyno for a break in and the next rebuild after about 25 miles. Turned  out 
to
be due to using flat tappets and the new oils not being up to the  task. 
Went
to roller rockers and Rotella T oil  and so far no issues  on the 3rd
generation rebuild. 

Curt

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of  allanballard at att.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 11:01 AM
To: Thomas  Witt
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel pump  question

Thanks for all comments, they are very helpful. Yes, they knew  it was a
tiger rebuild; they know the car already from a few repairs done  there. I
assume they knew it has an electric pump after putting the motor  back
together and into the car. I'll keep the list posted.

Allan  Ballard
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From mgman71 at comcast.net  Wed Apr 20 10:10:29 2011
From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 16:10:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Wiper motor brush set
Message-ID: <1623762374.175416.1303315829462.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hello again I am now looking to replace the brushes in the wiper motor does anyone know a source as to where to get them? Thanks in advance. George Re 

B9471055 

From CoolVT at aol.com  Wed Apr 20 10:25:04 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 12:25:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Wiper motor brush set
Message-ID: <26688.77a61b9d.3ae062df@aol.com>

George,
I would think that if you take a sample into almost any shop that repairs  
electric motors that they could find something that would work well.
 
 
In a message dated 4/20/2011 12:22:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mgman71 at comcast.net writes:

Hello  again I am now looking to replace the brushes in the wiper motor 
does anyone  know a source as to where to get them? Thanks in advance. George 
Re  

B9471055  
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From jliny5 at cox.net  Wed Apr 20 11:14:51 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:14:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
In-Reply-To: <5F55D78B-1C71-4FD1-9327-39F2DAB5CE5F@cox.net>
References: <434817600.203190.1303306064085.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<5F55D78B-1C71-4FD1-9327-39F2DAB5CE5F@cox.net>
Message-ID: <7C73276DBB784928BFEA35C58CB95F96@JPC>

Thanks Again guys. I removed bezel and lens without any problems and changed 
bulb. The bulb actually looked good, but it was not properly seated. I 
changed it anyway...all is working fine...and I learned something new.

Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Lindner" <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: "Gary Winblad" <garywinblad at comcast.net>
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 9:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement


> Thanks for the timely replies. Just the info I needed.
>
> Thx, Jim
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 20, 2011, at 9:27 AM, Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Oh.
>> Well .by now parts have been mixed and matched amongst
>> most cars.
>> Don't fear removing the wingnuts and the whole light assembly.
>> Alot of dust and dirt accumulates inside and its always a good
>> time to clean them out.  Just don't drop the wingnuts or the
>> lockwashers or they will be REALLY hard to get back.
>> Once out, you can see how to remove the bulbs.
>> Without external screws, your bulb sockets should be removable
>> BUT someone might have changed your chrome base and
>> put hidden screws you can't access until you remove the whole
>> assembly.
>> Gary
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net>
>> To: Gary Winblad <garywinblad at comcast.net>
>> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:09:33 -0000 (UTC)
>> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Bulb Replacement
>>
>> I have a very early Mk1 (0033). There are no external screws from lens
>> side,
> only screws secured by wing nuts at top and bottom of rear lamp assembly,
> inside.
>>
>> Hoping I do not have to remove entire lamp to change bulb.
>>
>> Thx,
>>
>> Jim
>> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net

From bikengreg at hughes.net  Wed Apr 20 20:24:01 2011
From: bikengreg at hughes.net (Greg Christensen)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 21:24:01 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel pump question
References: <1870192686.312055.1302889575137.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><F68B6B85-5304-4377-AC9C-D4B255B6A5B5@att.net><D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A08B2F501@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com><7F1028BA5E524B3FA39F77FD976C21A3@student2><406486.65766.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com><DA5890ABF0B74C1FB21D1A0AE33CD5AD@student2><8FA7A999-E23F-4751-9237-BD5CF9CE56A5@att.net>
	<005801cbff70$3b3cee20$b1b6ca60$@cinci.rr.com>
Message-ID: <592E86851B474283A2CAC22101DD9E9F@MiniDell>

Curt,

    Amsoil sells a 10W40 that has the correct amounts of zink that were
present in oil from back in the
day, when flat tappets rulled! I did some extensive research on the subject
comparing brands (along with
Rotella T which did not measure up) and found that Amsoil has the correct
ratio (and amount) of zink and phosphorus. These
trace metals form a boundry layer that keeps the cam lob and lifer appart.
Seems that they are removing these
lubricant additives to keep O2 and A/F sensors front being fouled with ash.
    During break-in use a non-detergent oil with an additive specificaly to
protect the cam for the first 50 miles of bed in. Summit sells
several diffrerent additives specifically for this purpose. After 50 miles,
dump the oil and fill will a high quality "non synthetic" for the
next 450 miles of break in...dump again and fill with oil of your choice.
    Bedding the cam is scarry because it goes against the need to keep the
RPM's low to prevent the rings from fluttering. Flat tappet
cams need to be immediately rev'd to around 2000 to sling oil from the crank
up into the valve train, otherwise the lifter will not retain
crucial lubrication during the first few minutes of operation.
    Seems that loosing two cams in a row is a little suspect and may be due to
the guy behind the dyno.

      Clear skys forever,

      Greg Christensen
      Tiger MK1a
       Nissan TECH LINE




  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Curt Hoffman
  To: tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 10:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel pump question


  Just as an aside, this all could be a  red herring. I had my engine built
  and we failed two cams right on the startup. Actually one starting up on
the
  dyno for a break in and the next rebuild after about 25 miles. Turned out
to
  be due to using flat tappets and the new oils not being up to the task.
Went
  to roller rockers and Rotella T oil  and so far no issues on the 3rd
  generation rebuild.

  Curt

  -----Original Message-----
  From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
  On Behalf Of allanballard at att.net
  Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 11:01 AM
  To: Thomas Witt
  Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fuel pump question

  Thanks for all comments, they are very helpful. Yes, they knew it was a
  tiger rebuild; they know the car already from a few repairs done there. I
  assume they knew it has an electric pump after putting the motor back
  together and into the car. I'll keep the list posted.

  Allan Ballard
  _______________________________________________
  Tigers at autox.team.net
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bikengreg at hughes.net

From geowiz.sgy at cox.net  Wed Apr 20 20:52:31 2011
From: geowiz.sgy at cox.net (James E. Pickard)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 21:52:31 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Non-tiger Miata question
Message-ID: <450F89BBB12E4C7FAE90ACD3B881E5C1@JEPHome>

Sorry to bomb the list, but does anybody know a Miata expert?  I've converted
a 1990 model into an electric vehicle.  Now I need to wire up the tach, but I
can't figure out which of the numerous wires is the signal.  Any help would be
greatly appreciated!

Jim Pickard
B9473298 ('65 Tiger)
AN5L/12109 ('59 Sprite) - sold
2003 Mini Cooper
1990 Electric Miata
Lafayette, LA

From v8tracker at gmail.com  Wed Apr 20 22:02:30 2011
From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes)
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2011 23:02:30 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Non-tiger Miata question
In-Reply-To: <450F89BBB12E4C7FAE90ACD3B881E5C1@JEPHome>
References: <450F89BBB12E4C7FAE90ACD3B881E5C1@JEPHome>
Message-ID: <6872502077244E83A8932C9FA339C3C6@DellD4700>

Jim,

According to Flyin' Miata's website, the tach signal for a 1990 Miata is a
yellow wire with a blue stripe. Their website lists the colors for various year
models and discusses where to tap into the wires to set up a shift light. Try
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/misc/revlight.pdf.

Out of curiosity, what will the tach measure? Is it a hybrid with the gas
engine still running? 

Hope this helps and good luck. Keep us posted on how it works out.

A. C. Tynes
New Orleans


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James E. Pickard
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 9:53 PM
To: Tiger List
Subject: [Tigers] Non-tiger Miata question

Sorry to bomb the list, but does anybody know a Miata expert?  I've converted
a 1990 model into an electric vehicle.  Now I need to wire up the tach, but I
can't figure out which of the numerous wires is the signal.  Any help would be
greatly appreciated!

Jim Pickard
B9473298 ('65 Tiger)
AN5L/12109 ('59 Sprite) - sold
2003 Mini Cooper
1990 Electric Miata
Lafayette, LA
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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________________________________

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3585 - Release Date: 04/20/11

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Thu Apr 21 04:05:39 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Clarkwgriswold)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 05:05:39 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Non-tiger Miata question
In-Reply-To: <6872502077244E83A8932C9FA339C3C6@DellD4700>
References: <450F89BBB12E4C7FAE90ACD3B881E5C1@JEPHome>
	<6872502077244E83A8932C9FA339C3C6@DellD4700>
Message-ID: <3473D2FE-1A75-4F5A-B0C3-4E7D453D6205@gmail.com>

Jim, I'm interested too. I know the subject is not tiger related, so send off
list if you need to, but can you tell more about your elec miata?

Cullen

Sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 20, 2011, at 11:02 PM, "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker at gmail.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> According to Flyin' Miata's website, the tach signal for a 1990 Miata is a
> yellow wire with a blue stripe. Their website lists the colors for various
year
> models and discusses where to tap into the wires to set up a shift light.
Try
> http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/misc/revlight.pdf.
>
> Out of curiosity, what will the tach measure? Is it a hybrid with the gas
> engine still running?
>
> Hope this helps and good luck. Keep us posted on how it works out.
>
> A. C. Tynes
> New Orleans
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On
> Behalf Of James E. Pickard
> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 9:53 PM
> To: Tiger List
> Subject: [Tigers] Non-tiger Miata question
>
> Sorry to bomb the list, but does anybody know a Miata expert?  I've
converted
> a 1990 model into an electric vehicle.  Now I need to wire up the tach, but
I
> can't figure out which of the numerous wires is the signal.  Any help would
be
> greatly appreciated!
>
> Jim Pickard
> B9473298 ('65 Tiger)
> AN5L/12109 ('59 Sprite) - sold
> 2003 Mini Cooper
> 1990 Electric Miata
> Lafayette, LA
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3585 - Release Date: 04/20/11
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Thu Apr 21 13:30:33 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 19:30:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Road Wheel Nut Torque
In-Reply-To: <1835114526.270534.1303414107109.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2090264245.270621.1303414233534.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi All, anyone know if the stock 7/16 wheel studs can safely take the lug nuts being torqued to more than the 48 lbs. ft specified in the shop manual if one is now using aftermarket wheels and lug nuts? Torque charts today say to go to 70-80 ft. pounds on 7/16 studs. Maybe the 48 lbs. ft. stock figure is due to limits imposed by strength of the OEM nut or wheel rather than stud strength? Cheers, Gene 

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Apr 21 17:36:34 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 19:36:34 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Road Wheel Nut Torque
In-Reply-To: <2090264245.270621.1303414233534.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FE3D1D8B41DA43D48EFCB8214CD310EE@ronpc1>

Gene
	It all depends on the material of the bolt and how it was made.
Generally a grade 8, 7/16 bolt can be torqued to 78 ft lbs.

I'm not sure what grade bolt the wheel studs are.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of genepadgett at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 3:31 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Road Wheel Nut Torque


Hi All, anyone know if the stock 7/16 wheel studs can safely take the lug
nuts being torqued to more than the 48 lbs. ft specified in the shop manual
if one is now using aftermarket wheels and lug nuts? Torque charts today say
to go to 70-80 ft. pounds on 7/16 studs. Maybe the 48 lbs. ft. stock figure
is due to limits imposed by strength of the OEM nut or wheel rather than
stud strength? Cheers, Gene
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3585 - Release Date: 04/21/11
06:34:00

From ora_archy at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 21 18:12:09 2011
From: ora_archy at yahoo.com (Brian Glenn)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 17:12:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter
Message-ID: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

All,
 
I'm just wrapping up a change over to a 302.
Can I use the 260 starter?
 
I recall someone mentioning a smaller, stronger starter.
Where would I find information, purchase and how much?
Any drawbacks to the new starter?
 
Thanks in advance for your collective expertise.
Brian

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Thu Apr 21 18:28:29 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 20:28:29 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter
In-Reply-To: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <149618B2-89AD-4B45-9FD6-9EB8115B8251@gmail.com>

all 157 tooth flywheel starters are the same.  the gear reduction ones are
smaller, lighter and easier on the battery.  also easier on your solenoid
because you are only switching the load of the built in solenoid, which is
probably the biggest benefit.  unless you want to be concours I can see no
drawback.  summit have an own brand
one that is cheap and has never let me down.


On Apr 21, 2011, at 20:12, Brian Glenn <ora_archy at yahoo.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I'm just wrapping up a change over to a 302.
> Can I use the 260 starter?
>
> I recall someone mentioning a smaller, stronger starter.
> Where would I find information, purchase and how much?
> Any drawbacks to the new starter?
>
> Thanks in advance for your collective expertise.
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From phastphill at aol.com  Thu Apr 21 19:03:25 2011
From: phastphill at aol.com (phastphill at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 21:03:25 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Road Wheel Nut Torque
In-Reply-To: <2090264245.270621.1303414233534.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CDCEA037E9885A-165C-6412@webmail-m050.sysops.aol.com>

---- Original Message ----
From: genepadgett at comcast.net
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Apr 21, 2011 3:30 pm
Subject: [Tigers] Road Wheel Nut Torque


Hi All, anyone know if the stock 7/16 wheel studs can safely take the lug nuts
eing torqued to more than the 48 lbs. ft specified in the shop manual if one
is
ow using aftermarket wheels and lug nuts? Torque charts today say to go to
0-80 ft. pounds on 7/16 studs. Maybe the 48 lbs. ft. stock figure is due to
imits imposed by strength of the OEM nut or wheel rather than stud strength?
heers, Gene
______________________________________________
igers at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/phastphill at aol.com
I have always just used  my1/2 in rattle gun and a80lb torque stick...never
had a prob have always just used  my1/2 in rattle gun and a80lb torque
stick...never had a prob

From jliny5 at cox.net  Thu Apr 21 19:14:49 2011
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 21:14:49 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter
In-Reply-To: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0D55BEF0109348D8993A4E77ECFF82AC@JPC>

Brian

Here is the text from an email I sent to the list back last fall. I was 
having problems with my original starter on my Mk1, so I switched to the one 
mentioned below.

After some problems this summer, I had my starter replaced with a more
current high torque Ford PMGR starter (Napa Part # 4N9240...$144)) based
upon some recommendations from this List. It is the same starter as for the
early 90s Mustang 302. In addition to being more efficient it is smaller
thereby allowing for some room between the exhaust header and the starter,
which I was lead to believe would help keep down the heat.

Other than some adjustments to the wiring to accomodate the solenoid built
right onto the starter, it was a perfect fit. If you are interested I can
forward a wiring diagram that Tom Parker provided me. I believe Tom also has
this starter installed.

Hope this helps.

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Glenn" <ora_archy at yahoo.com>
To: <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 8:12 PM
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter


> All,
>
> I'm just wrapping up a change over to a 302.
> Can I use the 260 starter?
>
> I recall someone mentioning a smaller, stronger starter.
> Where would I find information, purchase and how much?
> Any drawbacks to the new starter?
>
> Thanks in advance for your collective expertise.
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Thu Apr 21 20:39:48 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 22:39:48 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter
In-Reply-To: <0D55BEF0109348D8993A4E77ECFF82AC@JPC>
References: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<0D55BEF0109348D8993A4E77ECFF82AC@JPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTin=VCjGCaqhkYRr9zd6JW0YKutRkg@mail.gmail.com>

Jim's right, as is Owain. The starter will work wherever the old starter
worked, with the 160 tooth flywheel and the 157 tooth flywheel. The wiring
change is simple, the starter fits better under headers and appears to be
easily removable.

Tom

' 67 Tiger

On Thu, Apr 21, 2011 at 9:14 PM, James Lindner <jliny5 at cox.net> wrote:

> Brian
>
> Here is the text from an email I sent to the list back last fall. I was
> having problems with my original starter on my Mk1, so I switched to the one
> mentioned below.
>
> After some problems this summer, I had my starter replaced with a more
> current high torque Ford PMGR starter (Napa Part # 4N9240...$144)) based
> upon some recommendations from this List. It is the same starter as for the
> early 90s Mustang 302. In addition to being more efficient it is smaller
> thereby allowing for some room between the exhaust header and the starter,
> which I was lead to believe would help keep down the heat.
>
> Other than some adjustments to the wiring to accomodate the solenoid built
> right onto the starter, it was a perfect fit. If you are interested I can
> forward a wiring diagram that Tom Parker provided me. I believe Tom also
> has
> this starter installed.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Glenn" <ora_archy at yahoo.com>
> To: <Tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 8:12 PM
> Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter
>
>
>  All,
>>
>> I'm just wrapping up a change over to a 302.
>> Can I use the 260 starter?
>>
>> I recall someone mentioning a smaller, stronger starter.
>> Where would I find information, purchase and how much?
>> Any drawbacks to the new starter?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your collective expertise.
>> Brian
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Thu Apr 21 21:19:20 2011
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 22:19:20 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter
In-Reply-To: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <15AA5021A1314D0C877E4CBBEEADA8C4@jerry>

The small geared Ford starter works just fine; there are at least three ways
to wire it. If you have money to burn get a new one, otherwise like I did, I
bought one from a wrecking yard for $30.00, disassembled and cleaned it;
it's been in my Tiger for 10 years, works great.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Brian Glenn
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 7:12 PM
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter

All,
 
I'm just wrapping up a change over to a 302.
Can I use the 260 starter?
 
I recall someone mentioning a smaller, stronger starter.
Where would I find information, purchase and how much?
Any drawbacks to the new starter?
 
Thanks in advance for your collective expertise.
Brian
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From bobdixon at frii.com  Thu Apr 21 21:49:38 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 21:49:38 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter
References: <966711.9388.qm@web112504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <105294811D294410B1F12D6BF2545B87@BobsDell>

Hi Brian,

I found this tech tip extremely helpful.  My 289 uses an 'automatic' 
starter.  My 347 used a 'manual'.  Both in a Tiger.

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/91067433.pdf

Good luck,
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Glenn" <ora_archy at yahoo.com>
To: <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 6:12 PM
Subject: [Tigers] 260 versus 302 Starter


> All,
>
> I'm just wrapping up a change over to a 302.
> Can I use the 260 starter?
>
> I recall someone mentioning a smaller, stronger starter.
> Where would I find information, purchase and how much?
> Any drawbacks to the new starter?
>
> Thanks in advance for your collective expertise.
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bobdixon at frii.com

From geowiz.sgy at cox.net  Fri Apr 22 06:12:41 2011
From: geowiz.sgy at cox.net (James E. Pickard)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 07:12:41 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] non-Tiger: electric Miata
Message-ID: <4C1C24B179C64BC6AC8C7B7E39D5EA3A@JEPHome>

Sorry to bomb the list, but several have asked for details on my electric
Miata conversion.  So for those not interested, please delete now.  Otherwise,
read on.

I obtained a 1990 Miata with a nice paint job but a broken crank for $1500.  I
didn't find a kit I liked, so I pieced together the parts from various
sources.  The motor is an Advanced DC FB1-4001 (9" diameter).  It is bolted to
the stock transmission with an adapter plate from CanEV.  I used a Curtis
control and all the standard parts required to wire an EV.

The batteries are 36 ThunderSky lithium ion cells, all wired in series for
~120V.  14 live in the trunk in a box below the floor where the muffler used
to live.  13 occupy the spot that previously housed the gas tank (this was the
hard part).  And 9 live up front where the radiators used to reside.  The
batteries only weight about 250 lbs, so the car is a little lighter than an IC
Miata.

Figuring out how to wire up the battery management system for the lithium
batteries was a little tricky.  I had to call on my EE cousin for help.
Otherwise the conversion was pretty straightforward.

The car has no heater, AC, or power steering (it doesn't need power steering).
I've ordered a vacuum pump to restore the power brakes, because you have to
stand on the pedal to stop it without the assist.

I haven't driven it much yet, as I need to get the tach working so I can drive
it efficiently.  You start in 2nd gear and it zips along quite nicely.  No
clutch required

I don't know what the range is yet.  With the limited driving I've done, I
estimate maybe 30 miles to a charge.

I've got about $15K in this project, less a $1500 tax credit.  My original
plan was for this to be a test mule for an electric Bug-eyed Sprite.  But it
has turned out so well, I plan to keep it for awhile.  Especially if I can get
the range up to about 40 miles.

Jim Pickard
B9473298 ('65 Tiger)
AN5L/12109 ('59 Sprite) - sold
2003 Mini Cooper
1990 EV Miata
Lafayette, LA

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Apr 22 08:50:46 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 14:50:46 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Engine dyno breaking-in and power runs.
In-Reply-To: <20110126152231.6IBRG.8653.root@hrndva-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <20110422145046.FNLCU.220625.root@hrndva-web27-z02>

I am happy to say that my engine has a date with an engine dyno on Monday.

I have done some research but would like the lists collective recommendations for the dyno.  

Being that it is a complete roller engine, I plan on the following.  With the known working Autolite 4100 1.08 carb I had on the 260, will get the engine running and very the rpm under 4000K for 20-30 minutes.  I will then drain all of the oil and replace oil and filter.  Then the power runs will be run with the Autolite 4100 1.12 and then the Holley 600DP.  Runs will be completed with and without the air filter for compression. 

Will be running 91 octane, the highest I can get at the pump easily.  Compression ratio is 10.75:1. Static timing will be 10-16 degrees depending on how the engine likes it.  Mechanical is a max of 20 degrees all in by 2500 rpm.  I can change the mechanical advance if need be. 


Thanks for any advice!

Duke
B382002037 - soon to be a wheel spinnin monster Tiger.

From mgman71 at comcast.net  Fri Apr 22 09:29:49 2011
From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 15:29:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel/starter motor ?
Message-ID: <1498406695.278803.1303486189510.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Here I go again with more questions.. I just got my flywheel back from the machine shop and now I am looking to get a mini starter motor but I am confused. My flywheel number is C30E-6380 B the ring gear is a 160 tooth but when I start to look for starters the say they fit a 157 tooth or 164 is there a mini starter that will work with the 160 tooth ring gear or do I just get the original rebuilt...Thanks in advance for the help.... George Re 

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Apr 22 09:46:46 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 11:46:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Engine dyno breaking-in and power runs.
Message-ID: <18fb7.a367b42.3ae2fce6@aol.com>

Duke,
Most of the dyno print outs show the HP/TQ from 3,500 and above.   I've 
always wanted to know what the specs were from 2,000-3,500 because 90% of  the 
time the engine is in that range.  Seems that I got some vague reasons  of 
"that's just the way the machine is set up".  Just a thought you might  want 
to discuss with the operator. And then again maybe you don't care what it  
is in that range:-)
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 4/22/2011 10:56:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wsamouce at kc.rr.com writes:

I am  happy to say that my engine has a date with an engine dyno on Monday.

I  have done some research but would like the lists collective 
recommendations  for the dyno.  

Being that it is a complete roller engine, I plan  on the following.  With 
the known working Autolite 4100 1.08 carb I had  on the 260, will get the 
engine running and very the rpm under 4000K for 20-30  minutes.  I will then 
drain all of the oil and replace oil and  filter.  Then the power runs will 
be run with the Autolite 4100 1.12 and  then the Holley 600DP.  Runs will be 
completed with and without the air  filter for compression. 

Will be running 91 octane, the highest I can  get at the pump easily.  
Compression ratio is 10.75:1. Static timing will  be 10-16 degrees depending on 
how the engine likes it.  Mechanical is a  max of 20 degrees all in by 2500 
rpm.  I can change the mechanical  advance if need be. 


Thanks for any  advice!

Duke
B382002037 - soon to be a wheel spinnin monster  Tiger.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From bobdixon at frii.com  Fri Apr 22 10:22:39 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 10:22:39 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel/starter motor ?
In-Reply-To: <1498406695.278803.1303486189510.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1498406695.278803.1303486189510.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7e055f3401a914826791ec22851de39c@localhost>

I believe the 157 and 160 tooth flywheels are compatible.  The 164
tooth is a larger diameter.  I also believe that the starters are the
same.  It comes down to automatic vs manual.  

This tutorial answers a lot of questions:

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/91067433.pdf

Good luck,
Bob

On Fri, 22 Apr 2011 15:29:49 +0000 (UTC), George Re
<mgman71 at comcast.net> wrote:
> Here I go again with more questions.. I just got my flywheel back
> from the machine shop and now I am looking to get a mini starter motor
> but I am confused. My flywheel number is C30E-6380 B the ring gear is
> a 160 tooth but when I start to look for starters the say they fit a
> 157 tooth or 164 is there a mini starter that will work with the 160
> tooth ring gear or do I just get the original rebuilt...Thanks in
> advance for the help.... George Re
> _______________________________________________

From bobdixon at frii.com  Fri Apr 22 11:12:54 2011
From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 11:12:54 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Glue or snaps?
In-Reply-To: <7e055f3401a914826791ec22851de39c@localhost>
References: <1498406695.278803.1303486189510.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<7e055f3401a914826791ec22851de39c@localhost>
Message-ID: <b8186f352c65dfedb88551181524eb8c@localhost>

Howdy gang,

I'm about to secure my carpets and was wondering if I should use glue
or snaps?  I'm thinking about snaps just so I can take it out to dry if
it ever gets wet.

Thanks,
Bob

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Fri Apr 22 12:53:15 2011
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 14:53:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Seat Springs
Message-ID: <4DB1CE9B.7030105@roadrunner.com>

In the process of redoing the upholstery on my seats, I discovered that 
the small spring that tensions the lever to adjust the seat back angle 
is missing on both the seats (Part #193 on Plate B, Section YX in the 
Alpine Parts Manual).  I figure I can get them at my local hardware 
store, but I need to know a little bit about the length and diameter to 
make a good choice.  Anybody have one they could take a look at and make 
some measurements?  Thanks in advance.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 22 14:04:51 2011
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 13:04:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel/starter motor ?
In-Reply-To: <7e055f3401a914826791ec22851de39c@localhost>
Message-ID: <587725.35635.qm@web33208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The starters for the 157 an 164 tooth are NOT interchangeable. Don't know
about the 160 tooth. Anyone?

--- On Fri, 4/22/11, Bob Dixon <bobdixon at frii.com> wrote:


From: Bob Dixon <bobdixon at frii.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Flywheel/starter motor ?
To: "George Re" <mgman71 at comcast.net>
Cc: Date: Friday, April 22, 2011, 9:22 AM


I believe the 157 and 160 tooth flywheels are compatible.  The 164
tooth is a larger diameter.  I also believe that the starters are the
same.  It comes down to automatic vs manual. 

This tutorial answers a lot of questions:

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/91067433.pdf

Good luck,
Bob

On Fri, 22 Apr 2011 15:29:49 +0000 (UTC), George Re
<mgman71 at comcast.net> wrote:
> Here I go again with more questions.. I just got my flywheel back
> from the machine shop and now I am looking to get a mini starter motor
> but I am confused. My flywheel number is C30E-6380 B the ring gear is
> a 160 tooth but when I start to look for starters the say they fit a
> 157 tooth or 164 is there a mini starter that will work with the 160
> tooth ring gear or do I just get the original rebuilt...Thanks in
> advance for the help.... George Re
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Apr 22 14:09:54 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 16:09:54 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Glue or snaps?
In-Reply-To: <b8186f352c65dfedb88551181524eb8c@localhost>
Message-ID: <5DA8C1CE83CC46439FB6CD342C75F0BA@ronpc1>

Bob
	The original carpets were installed with snaps.  Removing the
carpets is always a good idea especially if they happen to get wet.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Dixon
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 1:13 PM
To: Tigers
Subject: [Tigers] Glue or snaps?


Howdy gang,

I'm about to secure my carpets and was wondering if I should use glue or
snaps?  I'm thinking about snaps just so I can take it out to dry if it ever
gets wet.

Thanks,
Bob
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3587 - Release Date: 04/22/11
06:34:00

From lpaulick1 at verizon.net  Fri Apr 22 14:12:46 2011
From: lpaulick1 at verizon.net (Larry Paulick)
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 16:12:46 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Engine dyno breaking-in and power runs.
In-Reply-To: <18fb7.a367b42.3ae2fce6@aol.com>
References: <18fb7.a367b42.3ae2fce6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4DB1E13E.1070501@verizon.net>

A good dyno man can tune the engine at the lower ranges as well.  I and 
several other Tigers owner used the same guy and his nunbers started at 
1500 rpm in 500 rpm increments.

I agree with the low rpm statement as this is where most of the car 
spends it's life.

Larry



On 4/22/11 11:46 AM, CoolVT at aol.com wrote:
> Duke,
> Most of the dyno print outs show the HP/TQ from 3,500 and above.   I've
> always wanted to know what the specs were from 2,000-3,500 because 90% of  the
> time the engine is in that range.  Seems that I got some vague reasons  of
> "that's just the way the machine is set up".  Just a thought you might  want
> to discuss with the operator. And then again maybe you don't care what it
> is in that range:-)
> Mark
>
>
> In a message dated 4/22/2011 10:56:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> wsamouce at kc.rr.com writes:
>
> I am  happy to say that my engine has a date with an engine dyno on Monday.
>
> I  have done some research but would like the lists collective
> recommendations  for the dyno.
>
> Being that it is a complete roller engine, I plan  on the following.  With
> the known working Autolite 4100 1.08 carb I had  on the 260, will get the
> engine running and very the rpm under 4000K for 20-30  minutes.  I will then
> drain all of the oil and replace oil and  filter.  Then the power runs will
> be run with the Autolite 4100 1.12 and  then the Holley 600DP.  Runs will be
> completed with and without the air  filter for compression.
>
> Will be running 91 octane, the highest I can  get at the pump easily.
> Compression ratio is 10.75:1. Static timing will  be 10-16 degrees depending on
> how the engine likes it.  Mechanical is a  max of 20 degrees all in by 2500
> rpm.  I can change the mechanical  advance if need be.
>
>
> Thanks for any  advice!
>
> Duke
> B382002037 - soon to be a wheel spinnin monster  Tiger.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/lpaulick1 at verizon.net

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Fri Apr 22 18:39:53 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 10:39:53 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Glue or snaps?
In-Reply-To: <5DA8C1CE83CC46439FB6CD342C75F0BA@ronpc1>
References: <b8186f352c65dfedb88551181524eb8c@localhost>
	<5DA8C1CE83CC46439FB6CD342C75F0BA@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikyfvr-euxdSpGVdzeVHFwR4C+j-Q@mail.gmail.com>

Ron is correct that the mats were installed with snaps, the tunnel and
sides along with the vertical rear panel were glued to the body, not
sure snaps could be used in those areas.. if they ever get wet hiy
them with a portable heater or hair dryer ASAP.

On 23/04/2011, Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote:
> Bob
> 	The original carpets were installed with snaps.  Removing the
> carpets is always a good idea especially if they happen to get wet.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Dixon
> Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 1:13 PM
> To: Tigers
> Subject: [Tigers] Glue or snaps?
>
>
> Howdy gang,
>
> I'm about to secure my carpets and was wondering if I should use glue or
> snaps?  I'm thinking about snaps just so I can take it out to dry if it ever
> gets wet.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3587 - Release Date: 04/22/11
> 06:34:00
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Fri Apr 22 19:38:16 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 01:38:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Seat Springs
In-Reply-To: <241179648.334508.1303522486261.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1740977763.334581.1303522696041.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Tod, I am working on my seats too. That spring is not so small by my
standards. I measure it overall outside length to be 4.99 inches, say 5 for
practical purposes. The length of of the coiled section is 3.515 inches.B  The
cross dimension of the coiled section measures 0.756 inch ,B so say 3/4 inch
.B  The diameter of the wire it is made out of is 0.105 inches.B  Very strong
tension, as you would expect with that thick of a coil material. Let me know
if a pic would be helpful or there is anything else you need.



Cheers,B  Gene


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tod Brown" <todbrown at roadrunner.com>
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 1:53:15 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Seat Springs

In the process of redoing the upholstery on my seats, I discovered that
the small spring that tensions the lever to adjust the seat back angle
is missing on both the seats (Part #193 on Plate B, Section YX in the
Alpine Parts Manual). B I figure I can get them at my local hardware
store, but I need to know a little bit about the length and diameter to
make a good choice. B Anybody have one they could take a look at and make
some measurements? B Thanks in advance.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From genepadgett at comcast.net  Fri Apr 22 21:22:33 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 03:22:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Seat Springs
In-Reply-To: <1193000912.338010.1303528619751.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <838518510.338147.1303528953677.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Tod, my apologies for the info on the wrong spring . Plus I did not see any
list responses and did not realize you had already gotten your answer.

I also measure the small spring in zip-lock bag number two at about 2 inches
overall.B  Fully coiled portion i s 0.725 inch long and about 0.450 inch
across coils , with wire diameter 0.065 inch.B B  Hooks on ends oriented 90
degrees to each other.



Gene B 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tod Brown" <todbrown at roadrunner.com>
To: genepadgett at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 9:53:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Seat Springs

Hi Gene:

It sounds like you are referring to the spring that fits on the bottom of the
seat and controls the sliding mechanism.B  The one I am missing is the one
that releases the seat back so that one can control the angle of the seat
back.B  From others who have written, it seems the spring I am looking for is
about 2 inches long.

Cheers,

Tod


On 4/22/2011 9:38 PM, genepadgett at comcast.net wrote:




Hi Tod, I am working on my seats too. That spring is not so small by my
standards. I measure it overall outside length to be 4.99 inches, say 5 for
practical purposes. The length of of the coiled section is 3.515 inches.B The
cross dimension of the coiled section measures 0.756 inch,B so say 3/4
inch.B The diameter of the wire it is made out of is 0.105 inches.B Very
strong tension, as you would expect with that thick of a coil material. Let me
know if a pic would be helpful or there is anything else you need.



Cheers,B  Gene


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tod Brown" <todbrown at roadrunner.com>
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 1:53:15 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Seat Springs

In the process of redoing the upholstery on my seats, I discovered that
the small spring that tensions the lever to adjust the seat back angle
is missing on both the seats (Part #193 on Plate B, Section YX in the
Alpine Parts Manual). B I figure I can get them at my local hardware
store, but I need to know a little bit about the length and diameter to
make a good choice. B Anybody have one they could take a look at and make
some measurements? B Thanks in advance.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net  Sat Apr 23 10:34:25 2011
From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 12:34:25 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
Message-ID: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>

Take a gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.   #
370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie" mags.  It looks
good with the carnival red paint.   The side view photos show the car having
a pronounced downward slant to the front.  Is that the way they came from
the factory?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Jeff

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sat Apr 23 11:01:00 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 13:01:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
Message-ID: <18a4.60b9dd19.3ae45fcc@aol.com>

Jeff,
You're sure to open a can of worms on this one;-)  I guess the  discussion 
would have to open with defining "survivor".  With all the parts  that have 
been replaced and a former paint job, many will not consider it a  survivor. 
It's surprising to me that they did not clean up the surface rust under the 
 hood and in the trunk.
Will someone comment on the rivets?
The bending on the exhaust is unbelievable.  It appears at one point  on 
the right side that it is squashed down to 1" or less.  Strange that  they 
would go with such a crappy job for a car that was in a museum and for a  car 
that they expect to get top dollar.
M
 
 
In a message dated 4/23/2011 12:34:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jxnichols at sbcglobal.net writes:

Take a  gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.    #
370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie"  mags.  It looks
good with the carnival red paint.   The side  view photos show the car 
having
a pronounced downward slant to the  front.  Is that the way they came from
the  factory?







Jeff
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sat Apr 23 12:59:20 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 11:59:20 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
References: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
Message-ID: <4DB32188.80507@mayfco.com>

Hmmm, are those original vin tag rivets?  Mine do not look like them and 
our numbers are only a couple hundred different.

Nice looking car though,

mayf

On 4/23/2011 9:34 AM, Jeffrey Nichols wrote:
> Take a gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.   #
> 370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie" mags.  It looks
> good with the carnival red paint.   The side view photos show the car having
> a pronounced downward slant to the front.  Is that the way they came from
> the factory?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Apr 23 13:55:19 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 14:55:19 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <4DB32188.80507@mayfco.com>
References: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
	<4DB32188.80507@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc01f0$5fcd7160$1f685420$@rr.com>

Not original rivets.  Exhaust is an abomination that I would not allow even
on a AMC Pacer.

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 1:59 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles

Hmmm, are those original vin tag rivets?  Mine do not look like them and 
our numbers are only a couple hundred different.

Nice looking car though,

mayf

On 4/23/2011 9:34 AM, Jeffrey Nichols wrote:
> Take a gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.   #
> 370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie" mags.  It looks
> good with the carnival red paint.   The side view photos show the car
having
> a pronounced downward slant to the front.  Is that the way they came from
> the factory?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sat Apr 23 14:06:17 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 16:06:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <4DB32188.80507@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <77182E81183B4F4AA31F50A1656FEECD@ronpc1>

Mayf
	I agree it is a very nice looking Tiger and it is listed in TBON.

As for the rivet - NO; even the vin plate is a repop; polished vin tag,
numbers hammered into the metal.

This is still a good looking Tiger.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 2:59 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles


Hmmm, are those original vin tag rivets?  Mine do not look like them and 
our numbers are only a couple hundred different.

Nice looking car though,

mayf

On 4/23/2011 9:34 AM, Jeffrey Nichols wrote:
> Take a gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.   #
> 370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie" mags.  It looks
> good with the carnival red paint.   The side view photos show the car
having
> a pronounced downward slant to the front.  Is that the way they came 
> from the factory?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3590 - Release Date: 04/22/11
06:34:00

From DRVEE12 at aol.com  Sat Apr 23 15:06:32 2011
From: DRVEE12 at aol.com (DRVEE12 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 17:06:32 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger seats wanted
Message-ID: <4a23a.71bc5a47.3ae49958@aol.com>

Anyone have a pair of decent useable or easily restorable seats for my  66 
MK l?
 
Thanks!
 
Steve Berman 
B382000793LRXFE

From mark44124 at gmail.com  Sat Apr 23 15:38:06 2011
From: mark44124 at gmail.com (Mark Rense)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 17:38:06 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 177
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1303584046.14018.tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1303584046.14018.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B9064334179F43EBA57BEDA41FCE44CF@delld630>

While I have never wet the carpets, I nearly soiled the drivers seat the
first time I banged second in the stroker car!

:>)

Bugz



Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 16:09:54 -0400
From: Ron Fraser 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Glue or snaps?

Bob
The original carpets were installed with snaps.  Removing the carpets is
always a good idea especially if they happen to get wet.

Ron Fraser

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sat Apr 23 16:06:03 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 15:06:03 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <000001cc01f0$5fcd7160$1f685420$@rr.com>
References: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
	<4DB32188.80507@mayfco.com> <000001cc01f0$5fcd7160$1f685420$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4DB34D4B.9090303@mayfco.com>

Oh, now y o u have done it! The Pacer crowd will be camped on your 
doorstep before dark, lol......
I agree that the exhaust didn't look good though.

When you make you dyno runs, please scan and shoot me a copy of each 
pull? I wold appreciate it..

mayf

On 4/23/2011 12:55 PM, Samouce's wrote:
> Not original rivets.  Exhaust is an abomination that I would not allow even
> on a AMC Pacer.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 1:59 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
>
> Hmmm, are those original vin tag rivets?  Mine do not look like them and
> our numbers are only a couple hundred different.
>
> Nice looking car though,
>
> mayf
>
> On 4/23/2011 9:34 AM, Jeffrey Nichols wrote:
>> Take a gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.   #
>> 370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie" mags.  It looks
>> good with the carnival red paint.   The side view photos show the car
> having
>> a pronounced downward slant to the front.  Is that the way they came from
>> the factory?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Jeff
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sat Apr 23 16:06:34 2011
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:06:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 5, Issue 177
Message-ID: <a089.35cc00d.3ae4a76a@aol.com>

Ah, the need for snap on seat covers!
 
 
In a message dated 4/23/2011 5:38:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mark44124 at gmail.com writes:

While I  have never wet the carpets, I nearly soiled the drivers seat the
first time  I banged second in the stroker  car!

:>)

Bugz



Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 16:09:54  -0400
From: Ron Fraser 
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Glue or  snaps?

Bob
The original carpets were installed with snaps.   Removing the carpets is
always a good idea especially if they happen to get  wet.

Ron  Fraser
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Apr 23 16:12:35 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 17:12:35 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <4DB34D4B.9090303@mayfco.com>
References: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
	<4DB32188.80507@mayfco.com> <000001cc01f0$5fcd7160$1f685420$@rr.com>
	<4DB34D4B.9090303@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <000601cc0203$8d2dacc0$a7890640$@rr.com>

I see your Pacer and raise you a Gremlin.............don't make me get the
Javelin!

Here is a pic for you guys.... 
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/004-6.jpg

Larry....you really want all the pulls with three different carbs?

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Mayfield [mailto:drmayf at mayfco.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 5:06 PM
To: Samouce's
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles

Oh, now y o u have done it! The Pacer crowd will be camped on your 
doorstep before dark, lol......
I agree that the exhaust didn't look good though.

When you make you dyno runs, please scan and shoot me a copy of each 
pull? I wold appreciate it..

mayf

On 4/23/2011 12:55 PM, Samouce's wrote:
> Not original rivets.  Exhaust is an abomination that I would not allow
even
> on a AMC Pacer.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
> Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 1:59 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
>
> Hmmm, are those original vin tag rivets?  Mine do not look like them and
> our numbers are only a couple hundred different.
>
> Nice looking car though,
>
> mayf
>
> On 4/23/2011 9:34 AM, Jeffrey Nichols wrote:
>> Take a gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.   #
>> 370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie" mags.  It looks
>> good with the carnival red paint.   The side view photos show the car
> having
>> a pronounced downward slant to the front.  Is that the way they came from
>> the factory?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Jeff
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sat Apr 23 18:48:28 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 10:48:28 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
References: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=QS+a1BZqoQtHaS1eGcnbA5JXH9w@mail.gmail.com>

I posted about this car on the CAT forum the other day.

Its interesting as it came up for sale on craiglist late last year for 1/2
the asking price and vanished fast.. so there is something gogin on there.

http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=565


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sat Apr 23 19:23:40 2011
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (Larry Mayfield)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:23:40 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <4DB3737D.4070809@comcast.net>
References: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
	<4DB32188.80507@mayfco.com> <4DB3737D.4070809@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4DB37B9C.7000008@mayfco.com>

Well, crappy dooly... I just went out and looked.  Like to apologize to 
all about the incorrect tivets remark I made.  Turns out that this was 
my first mistake today.  I was remembering the rivets on the race car 
which is a later Alpine body.  My Mk SN B9471136 rivets do indeed look 
exactly like the one in the ebay listing.  Hanging my head in shame...

My JAL number is 60644  if anyone want s to know..


Thanks for setting me straight Mr. Hall.....

mayf
worlds fastest sunbeam. period.

On 4/23/2011 5:49 PM, tom Hall wrote:
> On 4/23/2011 11:59 AM, Larry Mayfield wrote:
>> Hmmm, are those original vin tag rivets?  Mine do not look like them 
>> and our numbers are only a couple hundred different.
>>
>> Nice looking car though,
>>
>> mayf
> Dear Doc,
> These rivets are appropriate for a Mk I in this run of production.

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sat Apr 23 19:49:36 2011
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:49:36 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger at Bob's, Van Nuys last night?
Message-ID: <63AF060A70754D37B1133F812D2A22D0@student2>

Does the Tiger that was at Bob's last night belong to anyone on the list? 
Color looks to be metallic maroon. It has a front air dam that blends into 
the front flairs and black side pipes.  A buddy of mine saw it last night 
and asked me about it. I didn't recognize the car.
Tom 

From awtiger at cox.net  Sun Apr 24 22:23:17 2011
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:23:17 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <18a4.60b9dd19.3ae45fcc@aol.com>
References: <18a4.60b9dd19.3ae45fcc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1630F6833C674E72B323DFE07BB6D652@awtigerPC>

Hey, guys:

Regarding the red Tiger Mk1 on Ebay, I wondered when this car would surface. 
Actually, somebody is going to get themselves a very nice Tiger.  If I had 
the money, it would be sitting in my shop right now, no questions asked.

>From 1982 through 1994, I served on the BOD of the Oklahoma Region of SAAC 
and we put on the Mid-America Shelby Meet, as it was called back then. 
Wayne Curry, the former owner of this car, was a regular at our meets and 
could always be counted on to bring something spectacular.  He brought this 
very car to our meet back in 1983 (I may be a year or two off, either 
way...).  I vividly remember this car being trailered into the parking lot. 
Being a Tiger owner, I dropped what I was doing and followed Wayne as he 
pulled in.  The story that the museum is telling in the Ebay listing is the 
same story Wayne told me all those years ago.  At the time, the car was an 
absolute time machine; original to the nth degree.  It had the redwalls and 
LAT 9's on it back then, too.  I remember that Wayne had the factory hardtop 
on the car for the weekend and I lusted after that, since my Tiger at the 
time (B9470058) had no factory hardtop.

Can it be called a survivor?  That's up to the bidders and ultimate buyer to 
decide.  At the time I knew the car, I would have felt comfortable calling 
it a survivor.  When I left the Shelby club back in '94, I lost track of 
Wayne.  I would see him every now and then at the meet, but then I heard he 
got cancer and eventually passed away.  Wayne did have a very extensive and 
nice collection of Shelby cars, including a totally original blue 427 Cobra 
and a black '68 G.T.500 KR convertible.  He would cheerfully give rides to 
anyone who wanted the 427 Cobra experience, too.  He was really a heck of a 
nice individual and his cars were outstanding, this Tiger included.  I see 
no misrepresentation in the Ebay listing at all.  My estimation here is that 
someone is going to be very happy to get this car, even at the kind of money 
they are asking.  In the long run, I'd bet on it being a good investment.

My .02 worth,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
TAC #740

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <CoolVT at aol.com>
To: <jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles


> Jeff,
> You're sure to open a can of worms on this one;-)  I guess the  discussion
> would have to open with defining "survivor".  With all the parts  that 
> have
> been replaced and a former paint job, many will not consider it a 
> survivor.
> It's surprising to me that they did not clean up the surface rust under 
> the
> hood and in the trunk.
> Will someone comment on the rivets?
> The bending on the exhaust is unbelievable.  It appears at one point  on
> the right side that it is squashed down to 1" or less.  Strange that  they
> would go with such a crappy job for a car that was in a museum and for a 
> car
> that they expect to get top dollar.
> M
>
>
> In a message dated 4/23/2011 12:34:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> jxnichols at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> Take a  gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.    #
> 370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie"  mags.  It looks
> good with the carnival red paint.   The side  view photos show the car
> having
> a pronounced downward slant to the  front.  Is that the way they came from
> the  factory?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger at cox.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sat Apr 23 12:15:53 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 14:15:53 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles
In-Reply-To: <7615743FEE0A4D86B9B43E21EC3F19F8@jeffnicholsPC>
Message-ID: <7EE876F707574CDAB42DF67E81F36FFB@ronpc1>

Jeff
	Some of the slant seems to change a little from picture to picture
maybe due to the way they moved the car around to get photos.  Possibly just
the photos themselves.

	I agree the front looks a bit low but that is the way mine looks
with the thinner Mustang II rubber donut on top of the front springs.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeffrey Nichols
Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 12:34 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Low Mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles


Take a gander at this low mileage Tiger - 26,961 miles - on Ebay.   #
370504101887.   I like the red line tires with the "pie" mags.  It looks
good with the carnival red paint.   The side view photos show the car having
a pronounced downward slant to the front.  Is that the way they came from
the factory?







Jeff
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3590 - Release Date: 04/22/11
06:34:00

From Rollright at aol.com  Sun Apr 24 18:50:04 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 20:50:04 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter tach for Tiger
Message-ID: <3e3a.7edb3078.3ae61f3c@aol.com>

Hello all,
 
Got the final parts in and started final assy. of tach.
 
People have advised me to apply  12 VDC to the tach to establish "0"  RPM 
point.
 
Try as I might, on the positive and negative terminals on the back of the  
tach, I get no movement (or pressure in either direction).
 
Can anybody suggest anything? What am I overlooking or doing wrong?
 
Best regards,
 
 
Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From cbowland at msn.com  Mon Apr 25 07:23:12 2011
From: cbowland at msn.com (Curt Bowland)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 08:23:12 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger wins award in Copperstate 1000
Message-ID: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>

Good news for Tiger fans. Many of you are familiar with the many vintage
rally's being conducted in various parts of our country.

I believe last week was the completion of the 2011 Copperstate 1000, held
mostly in Arizona. It seems this year the weather was below normal, quite cold
for this time of year. A number of cars were forced to drop out due to
mechanical issues, especially hard hit were Jaguars and Porsches.

A individual was awarded the "Dan Rowan Co-Driver Award" presented to Sonia
Breslow, the car listed was a 1967 Sunbeam Tiger. Hopefully there may be some
pictures in some of the magazines who cover some of these events. Still always
nice to see a Tiger grab some press. Any other people on the list have photos
or additional information or picture of Sonia or the Tiger?

Curt Bowland
Chicago

From Carmods at aol.com  Mon Apr 25 07:49:50 2011
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 09:49:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter tach for Tiger
Message-ID: <bd83.62f27b16.3ae6d5fe@aol.com>

People have advised me to apply  12 VDC to the tach to  establish "0"  RPM 
point.

Hi Jim,


When I hooked up my Autometer tachometer I did nothing  to zero it and it 
began reading RPM as soon as I started the engine. The  needle stays where it 
was when I last turned off the  ignition.
 
John Logan

From rootes1 at earthlink.net  Mon Apr 25 09:14:40 2011
From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman C. Miller)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 08:14:40 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger wins award in Copperstate 1000
In-Reply-To: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

The Breslow MK II:

https://4dejda.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p1gGch3cjXZi3JTcdmP397dIzyOTcx5GVrL9b5VWLpfGOT8o22TtSvBERGsUokHuIHYPB9DFCkzQd_XEbNyOVJoQaYUW0Nf19/cloud-image.jpg?psid=1

Norm

At 06:23 AM 4/25/2011, Curt Bowland wrote:
>Good news for Tiger fans. Many of you are familiar with the many vintage
>rally's being conducted in various parts of our country.
>
>I believe last week was the completion of the 2011 Copperstate 1000, held
>mostly in Arizona. It seems this year the weather was below normal, quite cold
>for this time of year. A number of cars were forced to drop out due to
>mechanical issues, especially hard hit were Jaguars and Porsches.
>
>A individual was awarded the "Dan Rowan Co-Driver Award" presented to Sonia
>Breslow, the car listed was a 1967 Sunbeam Tiger. Hopefully there may be some
>pictures in some of the magazines who cover some of these events. Still always
>nice to see a Tiger grab some press. Any other people on the list have photos
>or additional information or picture of Sonia or the Tiger?

From sfranklin at tds.net  Mon Apr 25 12:07:02 2011
From: sfranklin at tds.net (sfranklin tds.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 14:07:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Sheet Metal
Message-ID: <BANLkTimYuJfCLeZGNnGgjtor6fm_Bdjcqw@mail.gmail.com>

I,m looking for sheet metal repair piece RH lower front fender. Is VB the
only supplier?

   Steve F

67 MK II

From allanballard at att.net  Mon Apr 25 12:31:49 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 14:31:49 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger wins award in Copperstate 1000
In-Reply-To: <E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>

Participants Choice: Sue & Rick Nash, 1957 Ferrari 250 GT Zagato
Louis Lafflin Spirit Award: Newt Withers, 1966 Ferrari 275 GTB/6C
Dan Rowan Co-Driver Award: Sonia Breslow, 1967 Sunbeam Tiger
Good Samaritan: Shawn McGregor, Phoenix Metro Towing
MAC Award: Susan & John Barrett, 1964 Ferrari 250 GT Lusso
Fur Piece Award: Will Mittler (Vermont), 1966 Ferrari 275 GTB/6C
Immaculate Presentation: Alden & Herb Wolfe, 1948 Cisitalia 202 SMM Nuvolari
Spider
Condolence Awards: Jody & Scott Rosen, 1956 Maserati 350S; Jane & Tom Smith,
1952 Aston Martin DB2

http://www.vintagemotorsport.com/show_news.asp?id=2104

Anyone else running vintage car rallies?

I have been running two yearly in my Alpine and will substitute the Tiger in
the Fall, about
400 miles across Georgia. Openings are still available if anyone is
interested.

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger
SIV Alpine

On Apr 25, 2011, at 11:14 AM, Norman C. Miller wrote:

> The Breslow MK II:
>
>
https://4dejda.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p1gGch3cjXZi3JTcdmP397dIzyOTcx5GVrL9b5
VWLpfGOT8o22TtSvBERGsUokHuIHYPB9DFCkzQd_XEbNyOVJoQaYUW0Nf19/cloud-image.jpg?p
sid=1
>
> Norm
>
> At 06:23 AM 4/25/2011, Curt Bowland wrote:
>> Good news for Tiger fans. Many of you are familiar with the many vintage
>> rally's being conducted in various parts of our country.
>>
>> I believe last week was the completion of the 2011 Copperstate 1000, held
>> mostly in Arizona. It seems this year the weather was below normal, quite
cold
>> for this time of year. A number of cars were forced to drop out due to
>> mechanical issues, especially hard hit were Jaguars and Porsches.
>>
>> A individual was awarded the "Dan Rowan Co-Driver Award" presented to
Sonia
>> Breslow, the car listed was a 1967 Sunbeam Tiger. Hopefully there may be
some
>> pictures in some of the magazines who cover some of these events. Still
always
>> nice to see a Tiger grab some press. Any other people on the list have
photos
>> or additional information or picture of Sonia or the Tiger?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Mon Apr 25 12:33:05 2011
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 20:33:05 +0200
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger wins award in Copperstate 1000
In-Reply-To: <EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
Message-ID: <2A14006B-0463-4738-80C7-8BFF6C47C0B7@gmail.com>

wow!  some badass cars there!

On Apr 25, 2011, at 20:31, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:

> Participants Choice: Sue & Rick Nash, 1957 Ferrari 250 GT Zagato
> Louis Lafflin Spirit Award: Newt Withers, 1966 Ferrari 275 GTB/6C
> Dan Rowan Co-Driver Award: Sonia Breslow, 1967 Sunbeam Tiger
> Good Samaritan: Shawn McGregor, Phoenix Metro Towing
> MAC Award: Susan & John Barrett, 1964 Ferrari 250 GT Lusso
> Fur Piece Award: Will Mittler (Vermont), 1966 Ferrari 275 GTB/6C
> Immaculate Presentation: Alden & Herb Wolfe, 1948 Cisitalia 202 SMM
Nuvolari
> Spider
> Condolence Awards: Jody & Scott Rosen, 1956 Maserati 350S; Jane & Tom
Smith,
> 1952 Aston Martin DB2
>
> http://www.vintagemotorsport.com/show_news.asp?id=2104
>
> Anyone else running vintage car rallies?
>
> I have been running two yearly in my Alpine and will substitute the Tiger
in
> the Fall, about
> 400 miles across Georgia. Openings are still available if anyone is
> interested.
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a Tiger
> SIV Alpine
>
> On Apr 25, 2011, at 11:14 AM, Norman C. Miller wrote:
>
>> The Breslow MK II:
>>
>>
>
https://4dejda.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p1gGch3cjXZi3JTcdmP397dIzyOTcx5GVrL9b5
>
VWLpfGOT8o22TtSvBERGsUokHuIHYPB9DFCkzQd_XEbNyOVJoQaYUW0Nf19/cloud-image.jpg?p
> sid=1
>>
>> Norm
>>
>> At 06:23 AM 4/25/2011, Curt Bowland wrote:
>>> Good news for Tiger fans. Many of you are familiar with the many vintage
>>> rally's being conducted in various parts of our country.
>>>
>>> I believe last week was the completion of the 2011 Copperstate 1000, held
>>> mostly in Arizona. It seems this year the weather was below normal, quite
> cold
>>> for this time of year. A number of cars were forced to drop out due to
>>> mechanical issues, especially hard hit were Jaguars and Porsches.
>>>
>>> A individual was awarded the "Dan Rowan Co-Driver Award" presented to
> Sonia
>>> Breslow, the car listed was a 1967 Sunbeam Tiger. Hopefully there may be
> some
>>> pictures in some of the magazines who cover some of these events. Still
> always
>>> nice to see a Tiger grab some press. Any other people on the list have
> photos
>>> or additional information or picture of Sonia or the Tiger?
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Mon Apr 25 18:03:13 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 19:03:13 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] 347 start attempt............day 1
In-Reply-To: <EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
Message-ID: <000601cc03a5$562e64f0$028b2ed0$@rr.com>

Hello all,

After ~5 hours of work, engine was finally on the dyno ready to be started
for the first time. As seen and heard (back fire through the exhaust) timing
is way off. I had also just gotten a call from work and my brief to a GO was
moved up....I had to go. Will pull the valve cover off in the morning to
check that #1 is TDC on the compression stroke and then re stab the
distributer. Tomorrow should be a day of many power runs. 

See video here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffNCJ_4hGzg

Duke
B382002037

From lon at sedona.net  Mon Apr 25 18:17:15 2011
From: lon at sedona.net (Lon)
Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:17:15 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Found Tools . . .
Message-ID: <000301cc03a7$4c42a6c0$e4c7f440$@net>

Cleaning out the garage, (again . . . way too much crap).  I found part of
my old tool kit for a Tiger I owned in 1966.  Believe this is the last of my
parts hoard. Three superslim wrenches, adjustable "King Dick" (love that
name), and hub cap puller.  Was going to ebay them but thought I'd check
here first to see if anyone needs these to compete a project.  Be happy to
blast them, and will if you desire, but the patina is nice.

 

Also happy to send shots, and need a reasonable offer.  Whole thing goes, I
don't need to part it out, just want it gone to a good home since I've had
these for 45 years.  Off list is fine, lon at sedona.net.

From Rollright at aol.com  Tue Apr 26 10:47:08 2011
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:47:08 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd:  Auto Meter tach for Tiger
Message-ID: <2b1b.4556408f.3ae8510c@aol.com>

Hi
 
Others are having the same issue about zero-ing the Smiths needle on the  
AutoMeter Tach
 
Can anyone help?
 
Jim Armstrong
 
 
  
____________________________________
 From: ross_hulse at sbcglobal.net
To: Rollright at aol.com
Sent: 4/26/2011  10:26:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: RE: [Tigers] Auto Meter tach for  Tiger


Jim,
Have you received a definitive answer to your  question? 

I have the same issue I am wondering how to zero the needle  after replacing
the original indicator needle with the Smiths  needle.

Thanks in advance
Ross 

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of  Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 5:50 PM
To:  tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter tach for  Tiger

Hello all,

Got the final parts in and started final assy.  of tach.

People have advised me to apply  12 VDC to the tach to  establish "0"  RPM
point.

Try as I might, on the positive and  negative terminals on the back of the
tach, I get no movement (or pressure  in either direction).

Can anybody suggest anything? What am I  overlooking or doing wrong?

Best regards,


Jim   Armstrong
Mk 1A  382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ross_hulse at sbcglobal.net

From sganz at pacbell.net  Tue Apr 26 11:24:54 2011
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 10:24:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd:  Auto Meter tach for Tiger
In-Reply-To: <2b1b.4556408f.3ae8510c@aol.com>
References: <2b1b.4556408f.3ae8510c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <785733.89892.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim -

The Autometer Tach must be powered for it to return to 0 RPM, Make sure
you have 
it connected correctly and that should work. I have one in my car
that does the 
same thing if power it cut off before the tach settles, hit the
power again and 
it pops back to 0 Rpm.

>From Autometer as well -

Your Auto
Meter tachometer should go to Zero when powered on with the engine 
off. *See
Shift-Lite Tach exceptions below.    

>Please keep in mind that the
tachometer does not necessarily go to, or stay at 
>Zero when the power is
off. If it does not go to zero with power on, engine off, 
>please verify your
power and ground connections and available voltage. If the 
>problem persists,
visit the Ask A Question or Contact Us pages to communicate 
>with a Tech
Department representative.  
>

Sandy




________________________________
From: "Rollright at aol.com" <Rollright at aol.com>
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Sent:
Tue, April 26, 2011 9:47:08 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Auto Meter tach for
Tiger

Hi

Others are having the same issue about zero-ing the Smiths needle
on the  
AutoMeter Tach

Can anyone help?

Jim Armstrong


 
____________________________________
From: ross_hulse at sbcglobal.net
To:
Rollright at aol.com
Sent: 4/26/2011  10:26:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time
Subj:
RE: [Tigers] Auto Meter tach for  Tiger


Jim,
Have you received a definitive
answer to your  question? 

I have the same issue I am wondering how to zero
the needle  after replacing
the original indicator needle with the Smiths 
needle.

Thanks in advance
Ross 

-----Original  Message-----
From:
tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On
Behalf Of  Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 5:50 PM
To: 
tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Auto Meter tach for  Tiger

Hello all,
Got the final parts in and started final assy.  of tach.

People have advised
me to apply  12 VDC to the tach to  establish "0"  RPM
point.

Try as I might,
on the positive and  negative terminals on the back of the
tach, I get no
movement (or pressure  in either direction).

Can anybody suggest anything?
What am I  overlooking or doing wrong?

Best regards,


Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 
382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: 
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ross_hulse at sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Apr 26 15:32:20 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 16:32:20 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
Message-ID: <000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>

415 lb-ft torque @ 4800 

416 HP @ 5800.

This was on the Holley 600 DP.  Engine would not idle below 1500 and I am
sure there will be drivability issues.  Just ran out of time and moola.
Much more detail and videos to follow.  My butt is worn out and I still need
to get the engine out of the back of the Acadia.

Duke
B382002037

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 26 16:04:53 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 18:04:53 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
	<000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTi=MsK472EaJ6iiAQ-=TiyitAca-TQ@mail.gmail.com>

"Engine would not idle below 1500"

That's a bit high even with an aggressive cam... Timing? Vacuum leak? Idle
adjustment? Stuck throttle cable? (I've run into all those birthing the 289
in my Mark 2...). With a mild Edelbrock flat tappet cam, Edelbrock heads,
full length headers, and a 600 Holley 4160 (vacuum secondaries) I can get
the idle down to 800 - 900 rpm, relatively smoothly.

The gas mileage, however, is not as good as I'd like it. Maybe because the
carb's sized for @ 350 CI. After a discussion with Dr. Mayfield a few months
ago I ordered a wide-band Air/Fuel gauge. Once it's in I hope to know more.
As it is, the limited driving I've done eats through a 6 gallon gas can full
way to quickly.

Hope you have an engine hoist, Duke, You're getting to the fun part!

Tom

' 67 Mark 2

On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 5:32 PM, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

> 415 lb-ft torque @ 4800
>
> 416 HP @ 5800.
>
> This was on the Holley 600 DP.  Engine would not idle below 1500 and I am
> sure there will be drivability issues.  Just ran out of time and moola.
> Much more detail and videos to follow.  My butt is worn out and I still
> need
> to get the engine out of the back of the Acadia.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Apr 26 16:48:56 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 08:48:56 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
	<000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com>

Duke,

frommichael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
toSamouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
date14 April 2011 10:49
subjectRe: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
mailed-bygmail.com
hide details 14 Apr (13 days ago)
im going in for 418bhp
I was only 2bhp off!!!


On 27 April 2011 07:32, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

> 415 lb-ft torque @ 4800
>
> 416 HP @ 5800.
>
> This was on the Holley 600 DP.  Engine would not idle below 1500 and I am
> sure there will be drivability issues.  Just ran out of time and moola.
> Much more detail and videos to follow.  My butt is worn out and I still
> need
> to get the engine out of the back of the Acadia.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Apr 26 17:19:26 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 18:19:26 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
	<000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
	<BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com>

NICE!

 

Here are the numbers -
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/347EngineDyn
onumbers.jpg

No fancy graph, just a dot matrix print out.  I was disappointed he did not
do from 1500 rpm on up.  He claimed he was not able to do it.  No matter,
will get all of that info on a chassis dyno.

 

Here is the video - The sparks are from the flywheel ring-gear contacting
the steel scatter shield.  Both were his and won't be on my car.

http://youtu.be/gBUFgMc-HvQ

 

Duke

B382002037

 

From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 5:49 PM
To: Samouce's
Cc: Tigers TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

 

Duke,

 

frommichael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
toSamouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>

date14 April 2011 10:49
subjectRe: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
mailed-bygmail.com

hide details 14 Apr (13 days ago) 

im going in for 418bhp

I was only 2bhp off!!!


 

On 27 April 2011 07:32, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

415 lb-ft torque @ 4800

416 HP @ 5800.

This was on the Holley 600 DP.  Engine would not idle below 1500 and I am
sure there will be drivability issues.  Just ran out of time and moola.
Much more detail and videos to follow.  My butt is worn out and I still need
to get the engine out of the back of the Acadia.

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com




-- 
Regards

Michael King

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Apr 26 17:24:22 2011
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 09:24:22 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
	<000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
	<BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com>
	<000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BANLkTinQ4xb75=tpyEUMnd4m7rxzRCd8gg@mail.gmail.com>

Duke,

Firstly... was i the closest.. and if so what do i WIN? :-D

Interesting to see the BHP and torque figures.. I'd love to know what you
are gettig at around 2800-3700rpm.

On 27 April 2011 09:19, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

>  NICE!
>
>
>
> Here are the numbers -
>
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/347EngineDyno
numbers.jpg
>
> No fancy graph, just a dot matrix print out.  I was disappointed he did not
> do from 1500 rpm on up.  He claimed he was not able to do it.  No matter,
> will get all of that info on a chassis dyno.
>
>
>
> Here is the video - The sparks are from the flywheel ring-gear contacting
> the steel scatter shield.  Both were his and wont be on my car.
>
> http://youtu.be/gBUFgMc-HvQ
>
>
>
> Duke
>
> B382002037
>
>
>
> *From:* michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 26, 2011 5:49 PM
> *To:* Samouce's
> *Cc:* Tigers TIGER
> *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
>
>
>
> Duke,
>
>
>
> frommichael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
> toSamouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
>
> date14 April 2011 10:49
> subjectRe: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
> mailed-bygmail.com
>
> hide details 14 Apr (13 days ago)
>
> im going in for 418bhp
>
> I was only 2bhp off!!!
>
>
>
>
> On 27 April 2011 07:32, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> 415 lb-ft torque @ 4800
>
> 416 HP @ 5800.
>
> This was on the Holley 600 DP.  Engine would not idle below 1500 and I am
> sure there will be drivability issues.  Just ran out of time and moola.
> Much more detail and videos to follow.  My butt is worn out and I still
> need
> to get the engine out of the back of the Acadia.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
>



--
Regards

Michael King

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Apr 26 17:29:37 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 18:29:37 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTinQ4xb75=tpyEUMnd4m7rxzRCd8gg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
	<000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
	<BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com>
	<000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com>
	<BANLkTinQ4xb75=tpyEUMnd4m7rxzRCd8gg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cc0469$cf482230$6dd86690$@rr.com>

You are the closest thus far.  I bet I'll be able to spin them at just about
any rpm.

 

You will win my admiration!

 

Duke

 

From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 6:24 PM
To: Samouce's
Cc: Tigers TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

 

Duke,

 

Firstly... was i the closest.. and if so what do i WIN? :-D

 

Interesting to see the BHP and torque figures.. I'd love to know what you
are gettig at around 2800-3700rpm.

 

On 27 April 2011 09:19, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

NICE!

 

Here are the numbers -
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/347EngineDyn
onumbers.jpg

No fancy graph, just a dot matrix print out.  I was disappointed he did not
do from 1500 rpm on up.  He claimed he was not able to do it.  No matter,
will get all of that info on a chassis dyno.

 

Here is the video - The sparks are from the flywheel ring-gear contacting
the steel scatter shield.  Both were his and won't be on my car.

http://youtu.be/gBUFgMc-HvQ

 

Duke

B382002037

 

From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 5:49 PM
To: Samouce's
Cc: Tigers TIGER
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

 

Duke,

 

frommichael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
toSamouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>

date14 April 2011 10:49
subjectRe: [Tigers] I present....My Tiger's TEETH!
mailed-bygmail.com <http://mailed-bygmail.com/> 

hide details 14 Apr (13 days ago) 

im going in for 418bhp

I was only 2bhp off!!!


 

On 27 April 2011 07:32, Samouce's <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

415 lb-ft torque @ 4800

416 HP @ 5800.

This was on the Holley 600 DP.  Engine would not idle below 1500 and I am
sure there will be drivability issues.  Just ran out of time and moola.
Much more detail and videos to follow.  My butt is worn out and I still need
to get the engine out of the back of the Acadia.

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com




-- 
Regards

Michael King




-- 
Regards

Michael King

From jteepen at usatoday.com  Tue Apr 26 20:56:29 2011
From: jteepen at usatoday.com (Teepen, Jere)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 22:56:29 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
	<000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
	<BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com>
	<000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479A55046@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>

An interesting side note:  While watching the video note the lower water
intake hose.  It is collapsing during acceleration.  A good example of what
happens if a hose is used without an internal spring to support it.

Jere

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 4:19 PM
To: 'michael king'
Cc: 'Tigers TIGER'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

NICE!



Here are the numbers -
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Tigers%20Teeth/347EngineDyn
onumbers.jpg

No fancy graph, just a dot matrix print out.  I was disappointed he did not
do from 1500 rpm on up.  He claimed he was not able to do it.  No matter,
will get all of that info on a chassis dyno.



Here is the video - The sparks are from the flywheel ring-gear contacting
the steel scatter shield.  Both were his and won't be on my car.

http://youtu.be/gBUFgMc-HvQ



Duke

B382002037

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Tue Apr 26 21:00:18 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 22:00:18 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479A55046@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl>
	<E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net>
	<000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com>
	<BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com>
	<000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com>
	<E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479A55046@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cc0487$3dd2e830$b978b890$@rr.com>

Yea....I noticed that the first time I saw the video.  With all the runs we
did, I never saw it.  I thought I would also pass this on about my timing
fun today.

Timing....what a PITA. Lets talk about what hell I went through with timing
today. 

1. Pulled the valve cover over #1 to determine TDC for the compression
stroke. Discovered there were two identical sets of 0-40 degree timing marks
oriented the same way ~45 degrees apart (there are others that face the
other direction for a pointer on the other side) on the balancer. I had
obviously referenced the wrong one. So I marked the correct with white
paint. 

2. Got it running and discovered that if the distributer was not really
tightened down (were talking torque down hard), it would turn and retard the
timing. This would happen over 3000 rpm. That screwed up some runs. 

3. The mechanical advance weights in the BRAND STINKING NEW BIG $$$$ MSD
distributer kept get stuck in the rotor cap. I had to remove the cap and do
surgery with a dremel to correct the problem (calling MSD tomorrow). This
also screwed up runs when I discovered the advance would not go past 20
degrees and was stuck partially advanced. 

So, you can see why I was happy with the 416 HP and got the hell out of
there. Will do the rest of the tuning with it in the car and/or a chassis
dyno.

Almost makes my EFI days seem easier...........almost.

Duke
B382002037

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Apr 27 08:13:42 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:13:42 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <20110422145046.FNLCU.220625.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <20110427141342.KM8HN.248149.root@hrndva-web05-z01>

I figured out a big part of my idle problem yesterday.  A flex plate with and adapter for the input shaft for the dyno was used.  This set up weighs ~20% of what the flywheel and clutch does.  I bet that the engine will idle much better with the proper mass on the rear.

Duke
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 4:32 PM
To: 'Tigers TIGER'
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

415 lb-ft torque @ 4800 

416 HP @ 5800.

This was on the Holley 600 DP.  Engine would not idle below 1500 and I am
sure there will be drivability issues.  Just ran out of time and moola.
Much more detail and videos to follow.  My butt is worn out and I still need
to get the engine out of the back of the Acadia.

Duke
B382002037

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Wed Apr 27 10:56:06 2011
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 11:56:06 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <000c01cc0487$3dd2e830$b978b890$@rr.com>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl><E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net><EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net><000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com><BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com><000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com><E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479A55046@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
	<000c01cc0487$3dd2e830$b978b890$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <9FF799A559AB470DB887234E2DA1331F@jerry>

Remember those of you that buy and use a new MSD dist. They ship them with
the strongest springs they have. Look on the side of the package and
determine what curve you want and use the springs and bushings that will
give you what you want. Of all the "curves" I've done on MSD distributers
the ones that give the best performances is either of the two bottom right 
examples ( I like the middle one the best) it gives you, with the blue
bushing, 21 degrees of mechanical and if you have the max set at 36 degrees
(a Ford recommendation) that will give you about 15 degrees at idle, which
if you have a cam that has more than 280 duration you are about right.
And as you can see on the graph all the mechanical is in at about 2500RPM.  

Jerry Christopherson
9473187
  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 10:00 PM
To: 'Teepen, Jere'; 'michael king'
Cc: 'Tigers TIGER'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

Yea....I noticed that the first time I saw the video.  With all the runs we
did, I never saw it.  I thought I would also pass this on about my timing
fun today.

Timing....what a PITA. Lets talk about what hell I went through with timing
today. 

1. Pulled the valve cover over #1 to determine TDC for the compression
stroke. Discovered there were two identical sets of 0-40 degree timing marks
oriented the same way ~45 degrees apart (there are others that face the
other direction for a pointer on the other side) on the balancer. I had
obviously referenced the wrong one. So I marked the correct with white
paint. 

2. Got it running and discovered that if the distributer was not really
tightened down (were talking torque down hard), it would turn and retard the
timing. This would happen over 3000 rpm. That screwed up some runs. 

3. The mechanical advance weights in the BRAND STINKING NEW BIG $$$$ MSD
distributer kept get stuck in the rotor cap. I had to remove the cap and do
surgery with a dremel to correct the problem (calling MSD tomorrow). This
also screwed up runs when I discovered the advance would not go past 20
degrees and was stuck partially advanced. 

So, you can see why I was happy with the 416 HP and got the hell out of
there. Will do the rest of the tuning with it in the car and/or a chassis
dyno.

Almost makes my EFI days seem easier...........almost.

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Wed Apr 27 11:43:31 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 12:43:31 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!
In-Reply-To: <9FF799A559AB470DB887234E2DA1331F@jerry>
References: <BLU166-ds188FEC14ADD4DE001E8897DB960@phx.gbl><E1QENWE-0006rK-C4@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net><EA6E84DB-5CD0-4319-8EB1-00AD6776E2BB@att.net><000a01cc0459$6ce725b0$46b57110$@rr.com><BANLkTinwyY9hEcFyzWRJubJO3kEg9i+sig@mail.gmail.com><000401cc0468$63265c30$29731490$@rr.com><E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479A55046@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
	<000c01cc0487$3dd2e830$b978b890$@rr.com>
	<9FF799A559AB470DB887234E2DA1331F@jerry>
Message-ID: <000901cc0502$9fd37290$df7a57b0$@rr.com>

That is exactly how my distro is set up, blue springs and bushing.  

Jerry, can you remove your cap and rotor and get a good picture of the
mechanical weight assembly for me.  I would like to compare it to my own.
I'd like to see if there is anything different.

Duke 
B382002037

-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry & Maureen (Mo) [mailto:JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 11:56 AM
To: 'Samouce's'; 'Teepen, Jere'; 'michael king'
Cc: 'Tigers TIGER'
Subject: RE: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

Remember those of you that buy and use a new MSD dist. They ship them with
the strongest springs they have. Look on the side of the package and
determine what curve you want and use the springs and bushings that will
give you what you want. Of all the "curves" I've done on MSD distributers
the ones that give the best performances is either of the two bottom right 
examples ( I like the middle one the best) it gives you, with the blue
bushing, 21 degrees of mechanical and if you have the max set at 36 degrees
(a Ford recommendation) that will give you about 15 degrees at idle, which
if you have a cam that has more than 280 duration you are about right.
And as you can see on the graph all the mechanical is in at about 2500RPM.  

Jerry Christopherson
9473187
  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Samouce's
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 10:00 PM
To: 'Teepen, Jere'; 'michael king'
Cc: 'Tigers TIGER'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My 347 numbers!

Yea....I noticed that the first time I saw the video.  With all the runs we
did, I never saw it.  I thought I would also pass this on about my timing
fun today.

Timing....what a PITA. Lets talk about what hell I went through with timing
today. 

1. Pulled the valve cover over #1 to determine TDC for the compression
stroke. Discovered there were two identical sets of 0-40 degree timing marks
oriented the same way ~45 degrees apart (there are others that face the
other direction for a pointer on the other side) on the balancer. I had
obviously referenced the wrong one. So I marked the correct with white
paint. 

2. Got it running and discovered that if the distributer was not really
tightened down (were talking torque down hard), it would turn and retard the
timing. This would happen over 3000 rpm. That screwed up some runs. 

3. The mechanical advance weights in the BRAND STINKING NEW BIG $$$$ MSD
distributer kept get stuck in the rotor cap. I had to remove the cap and do
surgery with a dremel to correct the problem (calling MSD tomorrow). This
also screwed up runs when I discovered the advance would not go past 20
degrees and was stuck partially advanced. 

So, you can see why I was happy with the 416 HP and got the hell out of
there. Will do the rest of the tuning with it in the car and/or a chassis
dyno.

Almost makes my EFI days seem easier...........almost.

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From twotigers at verizon.net  Wed Apr 27 18:20:37 2011
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 17:20:37 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
Message-ID: <000001cc053a$19f09120$4dd1b360$@net>

The other day, I decided to finally get around to fixing my non-working
ignition warning light.  It's been in that condition for the 23 years I've
owned this Tiger.  During that time, I've had flawless performance from my
generator.  Even had a battery last 18 years in this car with only
occasional driving!

 

The bulb tested fine.tracing the wiring, I found it was cut clean about 3
inches behind the light.  I found the other ends hanging in the wiring.  The
wires were color code correct with the wiring diagram.  This is probably
when a bell should have gone off, but I went ahead and  connected the wires
and turned on the ignition.  Turning the key on produced a red light.
Started the car, still had a red light.  Revved the motor, still had a red
light (although somewhat dimmer).  Darn thing never went out!  After about a
minute or so, I shut off the car and disconnected the wires.

 

Upon re-starting the car, the ammeter showed a slight discharge.  Revving
the motor never budged the ammeter needle.  Previous to connecting the
ignition light, the ammeter would swing from slight discharge at idle to a
positive charge condition while running at speeds above idle (as it should).
I was hoping the ammeter had just taken a hit from the ignition light hook
up , but shortly thereafter I developed a miss in the engine and cranking
speed at start up was starting to slow.  Apparently, the generator didn't
take too kindly to the ignition light experiment.  Now I know why the wires
had been cut and left  hanging there!

 

I'm hoping those on the list with more electrical expertise than myself (and
that would be most of you) might be able to shed some light on what
happened, and if you think the generator is a goner.TIA!

 

Kirk

B382000503     

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Wed Apr 27 19:14:15 2011
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 21:14:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <000001cc053a$19f09120$4dd1b360$@net>
References: <000001cc053a$19f09120$4dd1b360$@net>
Message-ID: <BANLkTikVf-M4PT7V5OzYrqXvDTQF0AXOsA@mail.gmail.com>

Kirk,

Start here (If you haven't already!):
http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg

The light connects 12v from the ignition switch through the lamp to the "D"
terminal on the voltage regulator.

>From the diagram it looks like the D connector on the voltage regulator is
connected to the output of the generator; the only other connection shown is
the Field connection in the generator. If that's so, the voltage regulator
may have welded a relay point; the battery charge is through the voltage
regulator.

The last time I saw this problem was in a 1949 Ford around 1958...  (there
was no light; the VR had failed.)

I'm not sure why connecting the lamp would cause this problem...

Tom

' 67 Mark 2 (which, fortunately, doesn't have a generator...)



On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 8:20 PM, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net> wrote:

> The other day, I decided to finally get around to fixing my non-working
> ignition warning light.  It's been in that condition for the 23 years I've
> owned this Tiger.  During that time, I've had flawless performance from my
> generator.  Even had a battery last 18 years in this car with only
> occasional driving!
>
>
>
> The bulb tested fine.tracing the wiring, I found it was cut clean about 3
> inches behind the light.  I found the other ends hanging in the wiring.
>  The
> wires were color code correct with the wiring diagram.  This is probably
> when a bell should have gone off, but I went ahead and  connected the wires
> and turned on the ignition.  Turning the key on produced a red light.
> Started the car, still had a red light.  Revved the motor, still had a red
> light (although somewhat dimmer).  Darn thing never went out!  After about
> a
> minute or so, I shut off the car and disconnected the wires.
>
>
>
> Upon re-starting the car, the ammeter showed a slight discharge.  Revving
> the motor never budged the ammeter needle.  Previous to connecting the
> ignition light, the ammeter would swing from slight discharge at idle to a
> positive charge condition while running at speeds above idle (as it
> should).
> I was hoping the ammeter had just taken a hit from the ignition light hook
> up , but shortly thereafter I developed a miss in the engine and cranking
> speed at start up was starting to slow.  Apparently, the generator didn't
> take too kindly to the ignition light experiment.  Now I know why the wires
> had been cut and left  hanging there!
>
>
>
> I'm hoping those on the list with more electrical expertise than myself
> (and
> that would be most of you) might be able to shed some light on what
> happened, and if you think the generator is a goner.TIA!
>
>
>
> Kirk
>
> B382000503
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From twotigers at verizon.net  Wed Apr 27 22:40:50 2011
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 21:40:50 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <BANLkTikVf-M4PT7V5OzYrqXvDTQF0AXOsA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001cc053a$19f09120$4dd1b360$@net>
	<BANLkTikVf-M4PT7V5OzYrqXvDTQF0AXOsA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cc055e$73f0b000$5bd21000$@net>

Tom,

 

The voltage regulator sounds like a good place to start.Thanks for the info!

 

Kirk 

 

From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 6:14 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] (no subject)

 

Kirk,

Start here (If you haven't already!):
http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg

The light connects 12v from the ignition switch through the lamp to the "D"
terminal on the voltage regulator.

>From the diagram it looks like the D connector on the voltage regulator is
connected to the output of the generator; the only other connection shown is
the Field connection in the generator. If that's so, the voltage regulator
may have welded a relay point; the battery charge is through the voltage
regulator.

The last time I saw this problem was in a 1949 Ford around 1958...  (there
was no light; the VR had failed.)

I'm not sure why connecting the lamp would cause this problem...

Tom

' 67 Mark 2 (which, fortunately, doesn't have a generator...)




On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 8:20 PM, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net> wrote:

The other day, I decided to finally get around to fixing my non-working
ignition warning light.  It's been in that condition for the 23 years I've
owned this Tiger.  During that time, I've had flawless performance from my
generator.  Even had a battery last 18 years in this car with only
occasional driving!



The bulb tested fine.tracing the wiring, I found it was cut clean about 3
inches behind the light.  I found the other ends hanging in the wiring.  The
wires were color code correct with the wiring diagram.  This is probably
when a bell should have gone off, but I went ahead and  connected the wires
and turned on the ignition.  Turning the key on produced a red light.
Started the car, still had a red light.  Revved the motor, still had a red
light (although somewhat dimmer).  Darn thing never went out!  After about a
minute or so, I shut off the car and disconnected the wires.



Upon re-starting the car, the ammeter showed a slight discharge.  Revving
the motor never budged the ammeter needle.  Previous to connecting the
ignition light, the ammeter would swing from slight discharge at idle to a
positive charge condition while running at speeds above idle (as it should).
I was hoping the ammeter had just taken a hit from the ignition light hook
up , but shortly thereafter I developed a miss in the engine and cranking
speed at start up was starting to slow.  Apparently, the generator didn't
take too kindly to the ignition light experiment.  Now I know why the wires
had been cut and left  hanging there!



I'm hoping those on the list with more electrical expertise than myself (and
that would be most of you) might be able to shed some light on what
happened, and if you think the generator is a goner.TIA!



Kirk

B382000503
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From achd73 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 28 00:32:35 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 23:32:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] charging problem
In-Reply-To: <000001cc055e$73f0b000$5bd21000$@net>
Message-ID: <630139.73077.qm@web34207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Group-I have been out of state for the past 3 weeks and lost use of a pc the 2nd day gone. I also had no transportation-the last time I allow that to happen. I had responded to the post concerning the 331 gear and posi- if that is still available, would the owner please contact me off list. Im also looking for a decent set of hubcaps.

As for the light causing the generator to no longer charge- I would try polarizing the VR. Have no idea if that is the fix but years ago, I often had to polarize the VR to get my ginny to start charging again.Good luck Tom P. Both Tom Hall and Theo have a fix for the charging light and the gauge voltage stabilzer for lack of a better adjective. Two cures in one part.I have Theo's but to be honest I was only told Tom had the same thing. I suppose Im taking for granted his also has the small light bulb to insert in place of the stock bulb.
TtT

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Apr 28 06:26:30 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 08:26:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <000001cc053a$19f09120$4dd1b360$@net>
Message-ID: <B987590C0B324EB492640FD5111C3C49@ronpc1>

Kirk
	 You need to check all the wires in the charging system and starting
system to make sure the wires and connections are still in good shape.    It
almost seems like that cut wire is going right to ground.

You need to trace that cut wire to find out where it goes and see if it is
shorted in the harness somehow.

The NY wire should run from the voltage regulator D terminal to the bulb and
the W wire should run from the bulb to the #2 ignition switch lug.

I had a lot of difficulty with voltage regulators.  The points would get
dirty or arch together so take the cover off the VR and check the points.  I
installed a voltmeter to catch VR problems sooner.   I converted to an
alternator once I figured out the complete system and how to clean up the
wiring at the VR.

Slow cranking can be due to a low battery, bad connections at the starter
relay or battery or the relay going bad.

Good luck
Hope it is something simple with little damage.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kirk Smith
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 8:21 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)


The other day, I decided to finally get around to fixing my non-working
ignition warning light.  It's been in that condition for the 23 years I've
owned this Tiger.  During that time, I've had flawless performance from my
generator.  Even had a battery last 18 years in this car with only
occasional driving!



The bulb tested fine.tracing the wiring, I found it was cut clean about 3
inches behind the light.  I found the other ends hanging in the wiring.  The
wires were color code correct with the wiring diagram.  This is probably
when a bell should have gone off, but I went ahead and  connected the wires
and turned on the ignition.  Turning the key on produced a red light.
Started the car, still had a red light.  Revved the motor, still had a red
light (although somewhat dimmer).  Darn thing never went out!  After about a
minute or so, I shut off the car and disconnected the wires.



Upon re-starting the car, the ammeter showed a slight discharge.  Revving
the motor never budged the ammeter needle.  Previous to connecting the
ignition light, the ammeter would swing from slight discharge at idle to a
positive charge condition while running at speeds above idle (as it should).
I was hoping the ammeter had just taken a hit from the ignition light hook
up , but shortly thereafter I developed a miss in the engine and cranking
speed at start up was starting to slow.  Apparently, the generator didn't
take too kindly to the ignition light experiment.  Now I know why the wires
had been cut and left  hanging there!



I'm hoping those on the list with more electrical expertise than myself (and
that would be most of you) might be able to shed some light on what
happened, and if you think the generator is a goner.TIA!



Kirk

B382000503
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3598 - Release Date: 04/27/11
06:34:00

From twotigers at verizon.net  Thu Apr 28 08:49:53 2011
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 07:49:53 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <B987590C0B324EB492640FD5111C3C49@ronpc1>
References: <000001cc053a$19f09120$4dd1b360$@net>
	<B987590C0B324EB492640FD5111C3C49@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <001201cc05b3$8a2ab000$9e801000$@net>

Thanks to all for the suggestions.  The regulator will be the first thing I
check.  All other wiring, battery, starter, connections are in good shape,
clean and tight.  The recent battery drain is from repeated startings
without the benefit of a working charging system (only present after I
hooked up the ignition warning lamp).  Hopefully, it's as simple as some bad
points in the regulator.  I'll know more later today...

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fraser [mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com] 
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 5:27 AM
To: 'Kirk Smith'; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] (no subject)

Kirk
	 You need to check all the wires in the charging system and starting
system to make sure the wires and connections are still in good shape.    It
almost seems like that cut wire is going right to ground.

You need to trace that cut wire to find out where it goes and see if it is
shorted in the harness somehow.

The NY wire should run from the voltage regulator D terminal to the bulb and
the W wire should run from the bulb to the #2 ignition switch lug.

I had a lot of difficulty with voltage regulators.  The points would get
dirty or arch together so take the cover off the VR and check the points.  I
installed a voltmeter to catch VR problems sooner.   I converted to an
alternator once I figured out the complete system and how to clean up the
wiring at the VR. 

Slow cranking can be due to a low battery, bad connections at the starter
relay or battery or the relay going bad.

Good luck
Hope it is something simple with little damage.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kirk Smith
Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 8:21 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)


The other day, I decided to finally get around to fixing my non-working
ignition warning light.  It's been in that condition for the 23 years I've
owned this Tiger.  During that time, I've had flawless performance from my
generator.  Even had a battery last 18 years in this car with only
occasional driving!

 

The bulb tested fine.tracing the wiring, I found it was cut clean about 3
inches behind the light.  I found the other ends hanging in the wiring.  The
wires were color code correct with the wiring diagram.  This is probably
when a bell should have gone off, but I went ahead and  connected the wires
and turned on the ignition.  Turning the key on produced a red light.
Started the car, still had a red light.  Revved the motor, still had a red
light (although somewhat dimmer).  Darn thing never went out!  After about a
minute or so, I shut off the car and disconnected the wires.

 

Upon re-starting the car, the ammeter showed a slight discharge.  Revving
the motor never budged the ammeter needle.  Previous to connecting the
ignition light, the ammeter would swing from slight discharge at idle to a
positive charge condition while running at speeds above idle (as it should).
I was hoping the ammeter had just taken a hit from the ignition light hook
up , but shortly thereafter I developed a miss in the engine and cranking
speed at start up was starting to slow.  Apparently, the generator didn't
take too kindly to the ignition light experiment.  Now I know why the wires
had been cut and left  hanging there!

 

I'm hoping those on the list with more electrical expertise than myself (and
that would be most of you) might be able to shed some light on what
happened, and if you think the generator is a goner.TIA!

 

Kirk

B382000503     
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3598 - Release Date: 04/27/11
06:34:00

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Apr 28 09:03:39 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 11:03:39 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <001201cc05b3$8a2ab000$9e801000$@net>
Message-ID: <02A223F12B684AF4A2943990310A4393@ronpc1>

Kirk
	Once you have a problem like this, never assume wires are not burned
or the connections are good until you check them.   Even after you find the
problem be on the look for any possible collateral damage.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Kirk Smith [mailto:twotigers at verizon.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 10:50 AM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] (no subject)


Thanks to all for the suggestions.  The regulator will be the first thing I
check.  All other wiring, battery, starter, connections are in good shape,
clean and tight.  The recent battery drain is from repeated startings
without the benefit of a working charging system (only present after I
hooked up the ignition warning lamp).  Hopefully, it's as simple as some bad
points in the regulator.  I'll know more later today...

From twotigers at verizon.net  Thu Apr 28 09:14:27 2011
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 08:14:27 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <02A223F12B684AF4A2943990310A4393@ronpc1>
References: <001201cc05b3$8a2ab000$9e801000$@net>
	<02A223F12B684AF4A2943990310A4393@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <001b01cc05b6$f7f7a310$e7e6e930$@net>

Ron,

I will have my 'Lucas Smoke Detector' on high alert to make sure no smoke
escapes from the wiring (LOL)!  Thanks for the tip. 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Fraser [mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com] 
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 8:04 AM
To: 'Kirk Smith'; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] (no subject)

Kirk
	Once you have a problem like this, never assume wires are not burned
or the connections are good until you check them.   Even after you find the
problem be on the look for any possible collateral damage.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Kirk Smith [mailto:twotigers at verizon.net] 
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 10:50 AM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] (no subject)


Thanks to all for the suggestions.  The regulator will be the first thing I
check.  All other wiring, battery, starter, connections are in good shape,
clean and tight.  The recent battery drain is from repeated startings
without the benefit of a working charging system (only present after I
hooked up the ignition warning lamp).  Hopefully, it's as simple as some bad
points in the regulator.  I'll know more later today...

From milward at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr 28 12:13:50 2011
From: milward at roadrunner.com (Bill Rogers Motorsport Memories)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 11:13:50 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Voltage Regulators
Message-ID: <833538AAFEFB4DBBA4F330AA6B772E55@BillPC>

Hey Kirk, If you need a VR the classic Mustang shop in Ventura, National Parts
Depot, has correct ones.

Bill

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 28 12:50:46 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 11:50:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <002101cc05b8$19467130$4bd35390$@net>
Message-ID: <43584.97922.qm@web34206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Kirk- You strp the insulation off both ends of a piece of wire. Hold one end to the battery lug on the VR and flash touch the other end to the armature. It will spark and you are polarized. I hope this solves your problem. The guy at the rebuild shop thought it would after I explained what happened when you wired the light in.
Good luck, Tony

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 28 13:13:12 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] charging problem
Message-ID: <923509.99769.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I went to the local rebuild shop to ask what two lugs you flash to polarize a generator for Kirk and he replied the battery and the armature but Kirk says the book says the battery and the field. SO, does anyone know for sure. Theo??? Tom Hall?? I kow we have to have someome who knows. I just cant remember. At one time the covers used to tell you which lugs to flash. A little help please.
TtT

From genepadgett at comcast.net  Thu Apr 28 13:39:29 2011
From: genepadgett at comcast.net (genepadgett at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 19:39:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] charging problem
In-Reply-To: <923509.99769.qm@web34202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1175986640.613769.1304019569028.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Found this on the internet.B B  All you wanted to ever know and more!B B 
http://web.utk.edu/~tprather/FoothillsTractorClub/TechTips/PolarizeGenerator.
html .



By process of elimination, Generator and Armature must be the same posts.



Cheers, Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Somebody" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
To: "Beamclub" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 2:13:12 PM
Subject: [Tigers] charging problem

I went to the local rebuild shop to ask what two lugs you flash to polarize a
generator for Kirk and he replied the battery and the armature but Kirk says
the book says the battery and the field. SO, does anyone know for sure.
Theo??? Tom Hall?? I kow we have to have someome who knows. I just cant
remember. At one time the covers used to tell you which lugs to flash. A
little help please.
TtT
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/genepadgett at comcast.net

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 28 13:48:50 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 12:48:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <003a01cc05d7$f8a76810$e9f63830$@net>
Message-ID: <965760.77726.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Kirk, my mechainc says it is the battery and the field also.
Tony



--- On Thu, 4/28/11, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> To: "'Tony Somebody'" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
> Date: Thursday, April 28, 2011, 2:10 PM
> Thanks, Tony!  Appreciate all of
> you efforts!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 12:09 PM
> To: Kirk Smith
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
>
> Kirk- Did it work? here is his phone number 618 932 6122
> and I was talking
> to the young guy. tell him the big blonde with the Sunbeam
> Tiger and ask
> him. I cant get in my storage building for tress that fell
> while I was in
> Fla. I have an old VR in there. I will go to my car and see
> if it shows. I
> will also ask a young mechanic and call an old one IF he
> answers. The one
> that would know for sure retired then passed away. I would
> call the guy at
> Marvins Rebuilders at the number I gave you, tell him what
> the book says and
> what I told you he said and ask him what happens when you
> go the route the
> book says. Personally, Im pretty confident in these guys as
> they have been
> in business a long time BUT perhaps Theo or others will
> reply. I will ask
> them.
> Tony
>
> --- On Thu, 4/28/11, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> > From: Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> > Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> > To: "'Tony Somebody'" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
> > Date: Thursday, April 28, 2011, 2:00 PM
> > Tony- The shop manual said to use the
> > battery lug and the field connection
> > to polarize (which is what I did).  Your guy at the
> > rebuild shop said to do
> > it between the battery lug and the armature
> > connection?  I wonder which is
> > correct?     
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
> >
> > Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 11:51 AM
> > To: Kirk Smith
> > Cc: Beamclub
> > Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> >
> > Kirk- You strp the insulation off both ends of a piece
> of
> > wire. Hold one end
> > to the battery lug on the VR and flash touch the other
> end
> > to the armature.
> > It will spark and you are polarized. I hope this
> solves
> > your problem. The
> > guy at the rebuild shop thought it would after I
> explained
> > what happened
> > when you wired the light in.
> > Good luck, Tony

From twotigers at verizon.net  Thu Apr 28 14:01:38 2011
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 13:01:38 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <965760.77726.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <003a01cc05d7$f8a76810$e9f63830$@net>
	<965760.77726.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004601cc05df$173c1080$45b43180$@net>

This is getting real interesting...

The shop that Tony uses for generator rebuilds and the link Gene sent say to
jump the battery lug and the generator (or armature) lug.

The shop manual and Tony's mechanic say to jump the battery lug and the
field connection.

I've already tried it between the battery connection and the field
connection and I still have a negative charge condition...a little leery to
try it between the battery and armature!


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 12:49 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: Beamclub
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem

Kirk, my mechainc says it is the battery and the field also.
Tony



--- On Thu, 4/28/11, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> To: "'Tony Somebody'" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
> Date: Thursday, April 28, 2011, 2:10 PM
> Thanks, Tony!  Appreciate all of
> you efforts!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 12:09 PM
> To: Kirk Smith
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
>
> Kirk- Did it work? here is his phone number 618 932 6122
> and I was talking
> to the young guy. tell him the big blonde with the Sunbeam
> Tiger and ask
> him. I cant get in my storage building for tress that fell
> while I was in
> Fla. I have an old VR in there. I will go to my car and see
> if it shows. I
> will also ask a young mechanic and call an old one IF he
> answers. The one
> that would know for sure retired then passed away. I would
> call the guy at
> Marvins Rebuilders at the number I gave you, tell him what
> the book says and
> what I told you he said and ask him what happens when you
> go the route the
> book says. Personally, Im pretty confident in these guys as
> they have been
> in business a long time BUT perhaps Theo or others will
> reply. I will ask
> them.
> Tony
>
> --- On Thu, 4/28/11, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> > From: Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> > Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> > To: "'Tony Somebody'" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
> > Date: Thursday, April 28, 2011, 2:00 PM
> > Tony- The shop manual said to use the
> > battery lug and the field connection
> > to polarize (which is what I did).  Your guy at the
> > rebuild shop said to do
> > it between the battery lug and the armature
> > connection?  I wonder which is
> > correct?     
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
> >
> > Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 11:51 AM
> > To: Kirk Smith
> > Cc: Beamclub
> > Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> >
> > Kirk- You strp the insulation off both ends of a piece
> of
> > wire. Hold one end
> > to the battery lug on the VR and flash touch the other
> end
> > to the armature.
> > It will spark and you are polarized. I hope this
> solves
> > your problem. The
> > guy at the rebuild shop thought it would after I
> explained
> > what happened
> > when you wired the light in.
> > Good luck, Tony

From twotigers at verizon.net  Thu Apr 28 14:03:41 2011
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 13:03:41 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <004601cc05df$173c1080$45b43180$@net>
References: <003a01cc05d7$f8a76810$e9f63830$@net>
	<965760.77726.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<004601cc05df$173c1080$45b43180$@net>
Message-ID: <004701cc05df$6023da30$206b8e90$@net>

I have to go out of town for the rest of the day.  Darn!  To be continued...


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kirk Smith
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 1:02 PM
To: 'Tony Somebody'; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Charging problem

This is getting real interesting...

The shop that Tony uses for generator rebuilds and the link Gene sent say to
jump the battery lug and the generator (or armature) lug.

The shop manual and Tony's mechanic say to jump the battery lug and the
field connection.

I've already tried it between the battery connection and the field
connection and I still have a negative charge condition...a little leery to
try it between the battery and armature!


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 12:49 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: Beamclub
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem

Kirk, my mechainc says it is the battery and the field also.
Tony



--- On Thu, 4/28/11, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net> wrote:

> From: Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> To: "'Tony Somebody'" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
> Date: Thursday, April 28, 2011, 2:10 PM
> Thanks, Tony!  Appreciate all of
> you efforts!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 12:09 PM
> To: Kirk Smith
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
>
> Kirk- Did it work? here is his phone number 618 932 6122
> and I was talking
> to the young guy. tell him the big blonde with the Sunbeam
> Tiger and ask
> him. I cant get in my storage building for tress that fell
> while I was in
> Fla. I have an old VR in there. I will go to my car and see
> if it shows. I
> will also ask a young mechanic and call an old one IF he
> answers. The one
> that would know for sure retired then passed away. I would
> call the guy at
> Marvins Rebuilders at the number I gave you, tell him what
> the book says and
> what I told you he said and ask him what happens when you
> go the route the
> book says. Personally, Im pretty confident in these guys as
> they have been
> in business a long time BUT perhaps Theo or others will
> reply. I will ask
> them.
> Tony
>
> --- On Thu, 4/28/11, Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> > From: Kirk Smith <twotigers at verizon.net>
> > Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> > To: "'Tony Somebody'" <achd73 at yahoo.com>
> > Date: Thursday, April 28, 2011, 2:00 PM
> > Tony- The shop manual said to use the
> > battery lug and the field connection
> > to polarize (which is what I did).  Your guy at the
> > rebuild shop said to do
> > it between the battery lug and the armature
> > connection?  I wonder which is
> > correct?     
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
> >
> > Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 11:51 AM
> > To: Kirk Smith
> > Cc: Beamclub
> > Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem
> >
> > Kirk- You strp the insulation off both ends of a piece
> of
> > wire. Hold one end
> > to the battery lug on the VR and flash touch the other
> end
> > to the armature.
> > It will spark and you are polarized. I hope this
> solves
> > your problem. The
> > guy at the rebuild shop thought it would after I
> explained
> > what happened
> > when you wired the light in.
> > Good luck, Tony
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Apr 28 14:21:00 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 16:21:00 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <965760.77726.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5F757600BC1742118C34E2B5AA8669E4@ronpc1>

Voltage Regulator Terminals should be clearly marked; Arm, Fld and Bat, new
VRs usually have an instruction sheet included.

The instruction sheet I have states:
Disconnect wire at VR terminal marked Fld
Momentarily touch (2 seconds Max ) this wire to the Bat terminal screw
There maybe a spark but there is no danger to you
Reconnect wire to Fld terminal

Tiger wire diagram:
VR terminals: 
Bat - N wire	
Fld - NG wire	
D = Arm - NY wire

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 3:49 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: Beamclub
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Charging problem


Kirk, my mechainc says it is the battery and the field also. Tony

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Thu Apr 28 14:54:51 2011
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 15:54:51 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <5F757600BC1742118C34E2B5AA8669E4@ronpc1>
References: <965760.77726.qm@web34203.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<5F757600BC1742118C34E2B5AA8669E4@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <C5FFED81A3554B73803D6D1817F1597F@jerry>

I think you're right Ron, I've always heard the expression "flashing the
field" to get the current flowing in the right direction.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 3:21 PM
To: 'Tony Somebody'; 'Kirk Smith'
Cc: 'Beamclub'
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Charging problem

Voltage Regulator Terminals should be clearly marked; Arm, Fld and Bat, new
VRs usually have an instruction sheet included.

The instruction sheet I have states:
Disconnect wire at VR terminal marked Fld
Momentarily touch (2 seconds Max ) this wire to the Bat terminal screw
There maybe a spark but there is no danger to you
Reconnect wire to Fld terminal

Tiger wire diagram:
VR terminals: 
Bat - N wire	
Fld - NG wire	
D = Arm - NY wire

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 3:49 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: Beamclub
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Charging problem


Kirk, my mechainc says it is the battery and the field also. Tony
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From allanballard at att.net  Thu Apr 28 15:23:06 2011
From: allanballard at att.net (allanballard at att.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 17:23:06 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Camshafts-color coded?
In-Reply-To: <001b01cc05b6$f7f7a310$e7e6e930$@net>
References: <001201cc05b3$8a2ab000$9e801000$@net>
	<02A223F12B684AF4A2943990310A4393@ronpc1>
	<001b01cc05b6$f7f7a310$e7e6e930$@net>
Message-ID: <E124E1D4-745E-4F68-85CA-CCE56F3166E2@att.net>

The cam taken from the 289 going into my Tiger appears to be color coded, with
yellow paint dabbed on one area and pink on another. One end has four red dots
that resemble "A's." Does this mean anything? Just curious.
Allan Ballard
Ml1a Tiger

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 11:14 AM, "Kirk Smith" <twotigers at verizon.net> wrote:

> Ron,
>
> I will have my 'Lucas Smoke Detector' on high alert to make sure no smoke
> escapes from the wiring (LOL)!  Thanks for the tip.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Fraser [mailto:rfraser at bluefrog.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 8:04 AM
> To: 'Kirk Smith'; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] (no subject)
>
> Kirk
>    Once you have a problem like this, never assume wires are not burned
> or the connections are good until you check them.   Even after you find the
> problem be on the look for any possible collateral damage.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kirk Smith [mailto:twotigers at verizon.net]
> Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 10:50 AM
> To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Tigers] (no subject)
>
>
> Thanks to all for the suggestions.  The regulator will be the first thing I
> check.  All other wiring, battery, starter, connections are in good shape,
> clean and tight.  The recent battery drain is from repeated startings
> without the benefit of a working charging system (only present after I
> hooked up the ignition warning lamp).  Hopefully, it's as simple as some
bad
> points in the regulator.  I'll know more later today...
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Apr 28 17:56:06 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 19:56:06 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Camshafts-color coded?
In-Reply-To: <E124E1D4-745E-4F68-85CA-CCE56F3166E2@att.net>
Message-ID: <53DBA500A7B84203990D910C975ABD87@ronpc1>

Allan
	Normally any paint dap on a Ford part has a meaning but I have no
idea or any information about paint daps on a cam.
Sometimes paint daps are just an inspection marker. 

The only ID marks on a cam are the letters next to the last bearing journal
probably UA over X in this case.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: allanballard at att.net [mailto:allanballard at att.net] 
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2011 5:23 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: <rfraser at bluefrog.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Camshafts-color coded?


The cam taken from the 289 going into my Tiger appears to be color coded,
with yellow paint dabbed on one area and pink on another. One end has four
red dots that resemble "A's." Does this mean anything? Just curious. Allan
Ballard Ml1a Tiger

Sent from my iPhone

From sawhill at att.net  Thu Apr 28 18:37:42 2011
From: sawhill at att.net (Kenda Sawhill)
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 17:37:42 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] FW: Annual All British Motorcar Show and Swap Meet
Message-ID: <977D103149F647ADAC73C5F96DE7232E@HomeOffice>

  _____

Just a heads up for those with in driving distance to Sacramento, looking to
be another great show! Mac Sawhill B9470860







**ALERT  ONLY 8 days left**



Have you registered for the Annual All British Motorcar Show & Swap Meet on
May 22nd?  Sunday, May 22, 201 at the Yolo County Fairgrounds is the place
to be for your complete British connection.  See vendors of new and used
parts, food vendors, and beautiful cars and motorcycles in the show, as well
as many on sale in the swap area.  We will have a silent auction with
exciting items donated by businesses and individuals!  Pre-registration
closes Friday, May 6th, so hurry before the prices go up!  Go to our web
site, www.ubscc.org, and download the registration form or pay on-line, just
follow the links!



As of April 28, there are 15 trophy classes and 100 show cars and
motorcycles with room for more.  We also have room for more business and
swap vendors, so take a moment to send in the registration form if you want
to participate in this great event!



The following vehicles are one entrant away from setting another trophy
class:

MG TD, MGBGT, MG 74 =- 80, Austin Healey 100-4, Triumph TR2 & TR3, Triumph
TR3A & TR3B, Lotus, Vintage Mini, Land Rover, Morris Minor Traveller, and
Motorcycles.



The following vehicles are two entries away from setting another trophy
class:

MG TC, MG TF, Aston Martin, Austin, Jaguar E-Type, Jaguar XJ8, Jaguar XKR,
Rolls Royce, New Mini, and Sunbeam.



We are the only All British event that sets the trophy classes based on
pre-registrations, so make the most of this show and enter your vehicle!  If
you dont see the class you want, get your friends to register TODAY!
Pre-registration allows us to set the trophy classes and organize the field,
so please dont wait, register now!  Cant remember if you registered or
not?  A full list of entrants and trophy classes may be found at
www.UBSCC.org.  See who has entered with what car and where they are coming
from.  Caravan with fellow British car owners if possible!  This is a great
event that should not be missed!  If you dont have a car to enter, remember
that this is free for the attending public, so come out and see all the
British beauties and support the vendors and individuals that make this
event possible.

From rande at thecia.net  Fri Apr 29 04:13:03 2011
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 06:13:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger cover story -  last call
Message-ID: <4dba8f2f.1f03.0@thecia.net>

I noticed the book stores still have copies of Thoroughbred & Classic Cars April
2011 with the cover story about the Tiger Mk I and Tiger Mk II. The cars featured
in the article are a Midnight Blue(and blue interior) Mark I, and John Day's
Commodore Blue Mark II (formerly motor journalist Gregor Grant's second Tiger
and newly restored)that Day has owned since 1976.

Great pictures and fine article. Get a copy before the May issue replaces it.

From jteepen at usatoday.com  Fri Apr 29 10:29:09 2011
From: jteepen at usatoday.com (Teepen, Jere)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 12:29:09 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger cover story -  last call
In-Reply-To: <4dba8f2f.1f03.0@thecia.net>
References: <4dba8f2f.1f03.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479D2EB98@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>

Be quick!  Larger independent newsstands have already changed to the May
issue.  Your best bet is Barnes & Noble and Borders (if you can find one!).



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of rande
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 3:13 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger cover story - last call

I noticed the book stores still have copies of Thoroughbred & Classic Cars
April
2011 with the cover story about the Tiger Mk I and Tiger Mk II. The cars
featured
in the article are a Midnight Blue(and blue interior) Mark I, and John Day's
Commodore Blue Mark II (formerly motor journalist Gregor Grant's second Tiger
and newly restored)that Day has owned since 1976.

Great pictures and fine article. Get a copy before the May issue replaces it.

From choffman9 at cinci.rr.com  Fri Apr 29 10:50:12 2011
From: choffman9 at cinci.rr.com (Curt Hoffman)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 12:50:12 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger cover story -  last call
In-Reply-To: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479D2EB98@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
References: <4dba8f2f.1f03.0@thecia.net>
	<E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E1554479D2EB98@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
Message-ID: <004601cc068d$81bffc60$853ff520$@cinci.rr.com>

Helps to have a wife who works at B&N and runs the magazine section. She had
pulled it off when it first came in thinking I might have an interest. Go
figure : )

curt

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Teepen, Jere
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 12:29 PM
To: rande at thecia.net; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger cover story - last call

Be quick!  Larger independent newsstands have already changed to the May
issue.  Your best bet is Barnes & Noble and Borders (if you can find one!).

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Fri Apr 29 14:16:57 2011
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 15:16:57 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] throw out bearing help? long or short style?
Message-ID: <01a401cc06aa$646661a0$2d3324e0$@com>

Good afternoon friends of the list.this is not specifically Tiger related
but I suppose it could be. I am running a 4 speed toploader ford behind a
351 windsor based motor in another project.and I installed the clutch and
Lakewood scattershield, etc..with the clutch fork, and the "throw" or
distance that the fork can disengage the clutch is WAY to short.it would
need to move a lot farther two disengage the clutch and before It can, it
bottoms out against the opening of the scattershield. I didn't know it at
the time but I understand now that there are two different sizes of throw
out bearing depths? 

 

If I had the short bearing ( and it was short, about the depth of a hockey
puck..or an inch or less..) the geometry of what im looking at suggests it
behave this way.

 

What application or description would lead me towards a long style throwout
bearing?

 

Hope im making sense.ugh. 

 

Thanks!!

 

Cullen

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 29 20:22:26 2011
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 19:22:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <004601cc05df$173c1080$45b43180$@net>
Message-ID: <204822.65961.qm@web34201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Kirk and List
I just found a VR behind my computer desk (yes, Im single and there are lots of Beam parts in the living room) NEway, the cover on the regulator states. "Before starting engine momentarily connect "BAT" terminal to "GEN" (which is marked ARM on the lug but GEN on the cover)to properly polarize generator".

Sounds like my rebuild shop was right but my younger mechanic wrong.
Tony  

From twotigers at verizon.net  Fri Apr 29 21:26:41 2011
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Fri, 29 Apr 2011 20:26:41 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] FW:  Charging problem
Message-ID: <002101cc06e6$6c7d0880$45771980$@net>

-----Original Message-----
From: Kirk Smith [mailto:twotigers at verizon.net] 
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 8:23 PM
To: 'Tony Somebody'
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem

Well, that's 3 that support the armature touching battery and 3 that vote
for the field touching the battery...total confusion! 


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 7:22 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: Beamclub
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem

Kirk and List
I just found a VR behind my computer desk (yes, Im single and there are lots
of Beam parts in the living room) NEway, the cover on the regulator states.
"Before starting engine momentarily connect "BAT" terminal to "GEN" (which
is marked ARM on the lug but GEN on the cover)to properly polarize
generator".

Sounds like my rebuild shop was right but my younger mechanic wrong.
Tony  

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sat Apr 30 09:56:39 2011
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 11:56:39 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] FW:  Charging problem
In-Reply-To: <002101cc06e6$6c7d0880$45771980$@net>
Message-ID: <45032091F7124E958D5296192D0D2876@ronpc1>

Kirk
	The purpose of polarizing a generator is to put a little magnetism
into the field coils.  You do that by touching the field and battery wires
momentarily.   I don't see how touching the Arm wire to the Bat wire can put
energy through the field coils to create magnetism.

I'll stick with touching the FLD wire to Bat if I ever work on a Ford
generator system again.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kirk Smith
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 11:27 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] FW: Charging problem


-----Original Message-----
From: Kirk Smith [mailto:twotigers at verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 8:23 PM
To: 'Tony Somebody'
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem

Well, that's 3 that support the armature touching battery and 3 that vote
for the field touching the battery...total confusion!


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 7:22 PM
To: Kirk Smith
Cc: Beamclub
Subject: RE: [Tigers] Charging problem

Kirk and List
I just found a VR behind my computer desk (yes, Im single and there are lots
of Beam parts in the living room) NEway, the cover on the regulator states.
"Before starting engine momentarily connect "BAT" terminal to "GEN" (which
is marked ARM on the lug but GEN on the cover)to properly polarize
generator".

Sounds like my rebuild shop was right but my younger mechanic wrong. Tony
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3604 - Release Date: 04/29/11
06:34:00

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Apr 30 16:23:43 2011
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (Samouce's)
Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2011 17:23:43 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Clutch moment video..like your thumbs up!
In-Reply-To: <45032091F7124E958D5296192D0D2876@ronpc1>
References: <002101cc06e6$6c7d0880$45771980$@net>
	<45032091F7124E958D5296192D0D2876@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <000001cc0785$44374760$cca5d620$@rr.com>

Take a look at this video of the clutch movement - 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YjhqiqSt7U
Let me know if you think it looks like the actuation will be far enough to
disengage the clutch.

The off-set dowel in place.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/005-10.jpg

Flywheel and friction disk installed.
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-26.jpg

Pressure plate installed. 
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/003-19.jpg

The scatter shield was off .038 at 12 O'clock and .039 at 9 O'clock.  The
.014 offset dowel brought it in too 0 vertically and .005 at 9 O'clock.

Duke
B382002037