From allfudge1635 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 00:48:35 2010
From: allfudge1635 at gmail.com (Al Fudge)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 23:48:35 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikrXZMVyEP302gsiqYBYTCNghZASdyaprBU0Dmm@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimXOcY77EIFFhTuHWdX8IMAuSSNLVO-R87zv7oo@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTikrXZMVyEP302gsiqYBYTCNghZASdyaprBU0Dmm@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb18e9$6ea33f30$4be9bd90$@com>

Tom,

 

I'm in Issaquah, Washington, about 10 miles east of Seattle on I90.  I
thought about dipping, but I would lose the TAC decal and probably the VIN
plate.

 

Al

 

From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 5:15 PM
To: Al Fudge
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post

 

Al,

I bead blasted mine. If I had it to do all over I think I'd have it dipped.
There were seams that weren't cleaned out enough. It may have been an
operator problem, but I suspect it's just the way bead blasting is.

I have an AutoTwirler rotisserie and I like it. We made custom Sunbeam
mounts that use the jack holes and bumper bolts. It worked really well
except when the body was finally straight they had to "adjust" the brackets.

Sadly the brackets are no more; they didn't make it back from the body shop.

Tom

Just for grins, where are you located? I'm in Georgia.



On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 6:42 PM, Al Fudge <allfudge1635 at gmail.com> wrote:

I have a couple of questions for the community. I am 99.5% done with
dissassembling my MK1.  It needs some rust repair and I am considering
having the shell soda blasted.  Any comments on the relative merits of soda
blasting over bead or sand blasting?  I want to strip the shell to bare
metal so I can determine the extent of the required repairs, and there will
be more than a few.

Also, what about rotisseries?  I have looked at the Auto twirler, but are
there any others to consider? I don't want to build one; I'd rather buy a
complete one.

Thanks,

Al
B9471635
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Jul  1 04:14:28 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 05:14:28 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Hose_me?=
Message-ID: <20100701101325.8079F187653@autox.team.net>

Anyone have current upper and lower radiator hose numbers?  I had some numbers that worked a few years ago, but the new parts house (run by children with computers) can't seem to reference them. 
This is the same crew who once asked if my '65 GTO was a Ford....but I digress....

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Robin Young" <Robin02 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, Jun 30, 2010 22:59
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
To: "'Al Fudge'" <allfudge1635 at gmail.com>, <tigers at autox.team.net>

Al,  if your car has undercoat, it is very hard to remove completely unless
you dip.  I used a ceramic bead blast on the body and still had to hand rub
the undercoat areas to remove it.  As to the rotisserie, I found that using
two engine stands and modifying them was a very cheap way to go.  Using the
jack holes in combination with the bumper bolt holes worked well. Robin
Young
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Jul  1 05:59:11 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 07:59:11 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Hose me
In-Reply-To: <20100701101325.8079F187653@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F2ABAB47452040EEA441BAE5FB5D006E@ronpc1>

Spook
	I just got mine in the mail from Sunbeam Specialties, cut and ready
to go for a price I think was better than locating, buy and cutting them
myself.

Here are some numbers others have listed:

Upper  
Dayco  627
NAPA  7459
Dayco 70627
Dayco 71015
Dayco CH666

Lower
Ford  KM178
NAPA 7746
Gates  21034
Gates 20753   

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:14 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Hose me


Anyone have current upper and lower radiator hose numbers?  I had some
numbers that worked a few years ago, but the new parts house (run by
children with computers) can't seem to reference them. 
This is the same crew who once asked if my '65 GTO was a Ford....but I
digress....

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Robin Young" <Robin02 at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, Jun 30, 2010 22:59
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
To: "'Al Fudge'" <allfudge1635 at gmail.com>, <tigers at autox.team.net>

Al,  if your car has undercoat, it is very hard to remove completely unless
you dip.  I used a ceramic bead blast on the body and still had to hand rub
the undercoat areas to remove it.  As to the rotisserie, I found that using
two engine stands and modifying them was a very cheap way to go.  Using the
jack holes in combination with the bumper bolt holes worked well. Robin
Young _______________________________________________
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Jul  1 06:03:40 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:03:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Hose clamp
Message-ID: <AFD2115BB39C4B4F9219BCC67748E101@ronpc1>

    Does anyone have a source and part # for the Original style 1/2" band
clamp for the water valve hoses to the heater core and temp sender?
 
Thanks for your help
 
 
Ron

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Jul  1 06:19:45 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 08:19:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimOk2USvqRaOdcMKLIvk36EiZ5PcxCvNaZ-ckka@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6234B048A7C54331A7AB8D30BEF855B6@ronpc1>

Tom
    I don't always know more but I will raise concern when I see a possible
problem.   The jacking points maybe fine for lifting vertically but put a
side load on them and I raise a concern.   I have seen many a jacking point
that is bent and it is not very hard to push then around with a bit of
leverage.   The main idea here is to work safely and not have you or the car
crushed unexpectedly for lack of forethought.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941 at gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 12:35 AM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com
Cc: Al Fudge; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post


Ron,

The Alpine / Tiger jack will lift a wheel off the ground with the engine in
the car. (I have more faith in the mounts than the jack...)

It's over. The car spent 6 months on and off the rotisserie and body cart
during the rebuild. No engine or rear end, just the body shell. Same mounts.
No problems. If the jack is part of the same frame assembly as the cross
member it should be close to being as strong. The bolt is far from small,
1/2" UNF. Besides, how does one attach the rear; you need both to flip the
car.

I hesitate to disagree with someone who probably knows more than I do, so
I'll leave it this way: it worked for me. No guarantees that it'll work for
anyone else.

Tom

From mikeflbmer at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  1 06:26:59 2010
From: mikeflbmer at yahoo.com (mike schreiner)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 05:26:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps
Message-ID: <465633.96116.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here you go...  http://www.tractorpart.com/john_deere_cooling_hose_clamp.htm     

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Jul  1 07:18:30 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 09:18:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps
In-Reply-To: <465633.96116.qm@web54304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B0B4C6EEFA3A47A1B8B01255CFA272B0@ronpc1>

Mike
	This is a good source for double wire clamps as is Moss Motors and
englishparts.com.

	Double wire clamps are not what I'm asking for; I'm looking for, as
Norm Miller describes them, the 1/2" English Band clamp used at the water
valve for the 1/2" hoses from the temp sender to the valve, the valve to the
heater core and the heater core to the T connection.

	I have done several searches for this part and come up empty; I hope
someone on the list had better luck.

Thanks for the help

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mike schreiner
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:27 AM
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps


Here you go...  http://www.tractorpart.com/john_deere_cooling_hose_clamp.htm

_______________________________________________
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From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Thu Jul  1 07:35:43 2010
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 8:35:43 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps
In-Reply-To: <B0B4C6EEFA3A47A1B8B01255CFA272B0@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <20100701133543.89443.72325.root@hrndva-web10-z02>

Hey Ron,

I have some 1965 fuel from england you can put in your tank.

Duke


----  Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote: 
> Mike
> 	This is a good source for double wire clamps as is Moss Motors and
> englishparts.com.
> 
> 	Double wire clamps are not what I'm asking for; I'm looking for, as
> Norm Miller describes them, the 1/2" English Band clamp used at the water
> valve for the 1/2" hoses from the temp sender to the valve, the valve to the
> heater core and the heater core to the T connection.
> 
> 	I have done several searches for this part and come up empty; I hope
> someone on the list had better luck.
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Ron Fraser

From Carmods at aol.com  Thu Jul  1 07:55:21 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 09:55:21 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses
Message-ID: <68a2d.3046c5e.395df849@aol.com>

Hi Spook,
 
According to my records, The Tiger cooling hoses can be made from the  
following.
 
Upper   
Dayco  627
NAPA  7459
Dayco  70627
Dayco 71015
Dayco CH 666

Lower
Ford  KM 178
NAPA 7746 or 7776 or 8205
Gates  20753 or 21034
Autozone M-065.
 
Expansion Tank
NAPA 8205
Dayco 71218 or 70531
Discount or Advance Auto Parts C 71218. 

John Logan

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Jul  1 08:00:03 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 10:00:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps
In-Reply-To: <20100701133543.89443.72325.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <8A882626EB184618875BF1D972AF05D7@ronpc1>

Ahhhh the sweet aroma of stale hydrocarbons.  :)

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com [mailto:wsamouce at kc.rr.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:36 AM
To: Tigers at autox.team.net; rfraser at bluefrog.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hose Clamps


Hey Ron,

I have some 1965 fuel from england you can put in your tank.

Duke


----  Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote: 
> Mike
> 	This is a good source for double wire clamps as is Moss Motors and 
> englishparts.com.
> 
> 	Double wire clamps are not what I'm asking for; I'm looking for, as 
> Norm Miller describes them, the 1/2" English Band clamp used at the 
> water valve for the 1/2" hoses from the temp sender to the valve, the 
> valve to the heater core and the heater core to the T connection.
> 
> 	I have done several searches for this part and come up empty; I hope

> someone on the list had better luck.
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2972 - Release Date: 06/30/10
06:36:00

From John.Dillman at PUBLICANS.com  Thu Jul  1 08:50:48 2010
From: John.Dillman at PUBLICANS.com (John Dillman)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 09:50:48 -0500
Subject: [Tigers]  The real reasons I wanted to post
Message-ID: <BE9A6B7946F78D4E8731D948F4A146E61415C7A0@exchhou02.Publicans.com>

I have a Direct Lift rotisserie, and like it fine, especially for the
price.  Mine came from Greg Smith Equipment.  I have some angst over the
Chinese origin of it, but I don't guess the demise of American
manufacturing rests solely on my shoulders. . . .



I would echo most of the comments on paint removal.  Sandblasting
destroys too much, even if you are good.  Bead blasting is better.  Soda
might be even better (so it costs more).  Dipping is great, except for
seams and hidden areas.  My '70 280sl will probably get dipped, once I
stop working on the new house, as it has a lot of undercoating that the
other methods won't touch.



Good luck!



John Dillman

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Thu Jul  1 08:56:35 2010
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 10:56:35 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Hose me
Message-ID: <6d483.539932a6.395e06a3@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/1/2010 5:16:11 AM Central Daylight Time,  
spook01 at comcast.net writes:

I had  some numbers that worked a few years ago, but the new parts house 
(run by  children with computers) can't seem to reference them. 
This is the same  crew who once asked if my '65 GTO was a Ford....but I  
digress....


I had the same "kids with computers" experience, but mine was more  
laughable.
 
I was seeking shock absorbers for a 93 Mustang, the lad couldn't find them. 
 He turned the computer to me and he was in "electrical systems".  
 
Probably made sense to him.
 
Tom

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Jul  1 09:31:57 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:31:57 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Hose clamp
In-Reply-To: <AFD2115BB39C4B4F9219BCC67748E101@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <7DA062CABBCE4D60926169D542AD2E81@ronpc1>

	I seem to have stumped the panel, so far anyway, with this one but
it is early yet.  Most likely I have confused people.

Here is a web site that clarifies type of hose clamps.

http://www.croberts.com/hose.htm

The stock Tiger engine bay uses a combination of Fig 1; double wire, Fig 2;
Band, Fig 3; Ford Tower style, Fig 5; single wire hose clamps.

I'm looking for the clamp similar to Fig 2; band clamp for the 1/2" hoses at
the water valve.

It is very possible the they are NLA; exactly what I'm trying to determine.

Thanks

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:04 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Hose clamp


    Does anyone have a source and part # for the Original style 1/2" band
clamp for the water valve hoses to the heater core and temp sender?

Thanks for your help


Ron
_______________________________________________
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06:36:00

From Robin02 at mindspring.com  Thu Jul  1 09:34:40 2010
From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:34:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
In-Reply-To: <7D0166A4D85A584C84BB5E60B64B48881A28E4@AIRTEST.airtestdom.local>
Message-ID: <E1OULmq-00024C-U2@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

-----Original Message-----
From: Al Fudge [mailto:AFudge at airtest.us] 
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 2:56 AM
To: Robin Young; Al Fudge; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
Al,

A really good body guy installed eight body panels on my car while it was on
the rotisserie.  Afterwards, we hauled it to the bead blaster on the
rotisserie and used the ceramic beads to remove paint and rust to bare
metal. The beads just moved the undercoat around. It took chemicals and
rubbing to remove it.  Tim Ronack coached me through the paint process and
pointed out steel from this era was very prone to rust.  New bonding
primers, (he called them wash primers) chemically bond to well prepared
steel and protect the steel better than the building primer that goes on
next and makes the building primer adhere better so moisture cannot cause
rust under paint as was the case originally. The undercoat you asked about
is actually only stuck to a one step factory paint.  RObin

Robin,

Two engine stands is an idea I hadn't thought of.  Makes sense.  The
undercoat has been bothering me; would the blasting remove it
(apparently not) and what is it hiding?  I was advised by Larry
Atkisson, after he looked at the car, to sell the it and buy another one
to avoid the repairs (he was very diplomatic about it).  I was unable to
sell it, and decided instead, against his better judgement to attempt to
have it repaired.  After all it is a Tiger and I have always wanted one.
We'll see how it turns out.

Al

From mark.rense at ge.com  Thu Jul  1 09:49:54 2010
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd))
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 11:49:54 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses
In-Reply-To: <68a2d.3046c5e.395df849@aol.com>
References: <68a2d.3046c5e.395df849@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0458BE6B@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

Just make sure that the bottom hose you buy has the internal spring
support included. Otherwise it will collapse due to the heat and suction
and can starve your engine of vital coolant. Save your old hoses if just
for the internal spring support.

-----Original Message-----
From: Carmods at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:55 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses

Hi Spook,

According to my records, The Tiger cooling hoses can be made from the
following.

Upper
Dayco  627
NAPA  7459
Dayco  70627
Dayco 71015
Dayco CH 666

Lower
Ford  KM 178
NAPA 7746 or 7776 or 8205
Gates  20753 or 21034
Autozone M-065.

Expansion Tank
NAPA 8205
Dayco 71218 or 70531
Discount or Advance Auto Parts C 71218.

John Logan

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Jul  1 10:30:58 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 09:30:58 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
References: <AANLkTimXOcY77EIFFhTuHWdX8IMAuSSNLVO-R87zv7oo@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTikrXZMVyEP302gsiqYBYTCNghZASdyaprBU0Dmm@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001cb18e9$6ea33f30$4be9bd90$@com>
Message-ID: <8E3DB10CE4E74D07901F2EFC58F06DD1@student2>

The rotisserie I wound up using was simple and very low cost.  It is known 
as the "Satellite" rotisserie. The mounting points are not questionable. 
One simple puts the car on jackstands (located on sturdy frame rails).  Then 
you (the satellite) rotate around the car to perform the needed tasks. This 
offers a number of advantages beyond the low cost.  With the typical 
rotisserie one needs to stand/stoop over it all day. With the satellite 
rotisserie half the tasks can be preformed comfortably lying on your back. 
When working outdoors this also provides a secondary benefit - shade!

While the drawback to the satellite rotisserie is falling debris, one should 
be wearing a full face mask anyway.  A shower at the end of the day should 
also be required regardless of the rotisserie type.

There are psychological perception disadvantages to the typical rotisserie 
as well.  The wife may be incline to see your "skewered" car and be thinking 
you should be BBQ-ing rather than working on your car. The kids may be 
inclined to see a rotating axis and pester you to go to the local carnival 
and get on the twisting (upside down) rides. So, when considering a 
rotisserie one needs to give full consideration to all aspects.

In closing please remember if it wasn't for the 4th of July the Tiger might 
be a "Domestic" car. No offense implied to our fellow members across the 
pond.
Tom 

From berlin6703 at mypacks.net  Thu Jul  1 12:38:28 2010
From: berlin6703 at mypacks.net (berlin6703 at mypacks.net)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 14:38:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Hose Clamps
Message-ID: <23029874.1278009509590.JavaMail.root@wamui-bucket.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Try the English "Jubilee" clamps for something that works right and still maintains the correct period appearance.

Available at: 

https://www.xksunlimited.com/xks/merchant.ihtml?id=99&step=2

From rande at thecia.net  Thu Jul  1 14:35:36 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 16:35:36 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified
Message-ID: <4c2cfc18.6c30.0@thecia.net>

www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/sunbeam/tiger/1066421.html

Description:
1967 Sunbeam Tiger, full restoration in 1999, very low hours since, email for
full list of work done, very clean, fast car, VIN B382001746; Sunbeam Tiger
Owners Association certification number 294, $33,000. 917-952-9267, CT; mark.sattler at ubs.com
$33,000 mark.sattler at ubs.com

I don't know the seller. This appeared as part of a Hemmings email I received
today.

From jliny5 at cox.net  Thu Jul  1 15:05:10 2010
From: jliny5 at cox.net (jliny5 at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 21:05:10 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified
Message-ID: <1561521126-1278018296-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1615392836-@bda728.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I am scheduled to take a look at this Tiger on Sunday, although the owner sent me an email a couple of days ago and said he had an offer on the table. I am waiting to hear from him on the current status.

I ran the numbers past Norm Miller who confirmed the ID number. I also confirmed the TAC #. In my first email to the list last week, I ran this Tiger by the group and receved some positive comments on the individual who did the restoration. If any body has anymore info I surely would appeciate any comments.

Thanks

Jim lindner
------Original Message------
From: rande
Sender: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
To: tigers at autox.team.net
ReplyTo: rande at thecia.net
Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified
Sent: Jul 1, 2010 4:35 PM

www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/sunbeam/tiger/1066421.html

Description:
1967 Sunbeam Tiger, full restoration in 1999, very low hours since, email for
full list of work done, very clean, fast car, VIN B382001746; Sunbeam Tiger
Owners Association certification number 294, $33,000. 917-952-9267, CT; mark.sattler at ubs.com
$33,000 mark.sattler at ubs.com

I don't know the seller. This appeared as part of a Hemmings email I received
today.
_______________________________________________
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Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From Robin02 at mindspring.com  Thu Jul  1 15:11:30 2010
From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 17:11:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
In-Reply-To: <7D0166A4D85A584C84BB5E60B64B48881A28EC@AIRTEST.airtestdom.local>
Message-ID: <E1OUR2p-00055d-AO@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Al,
When the panels are replaced, you will find areas that are inaccessible when
the car is fully assembled. These areas can be primed ahead of replacing the
panels.  The inner rockers can be fabricated easily from 12ga. Galvanized
sheet and welded in place of the originals. The outer rockers are stamped
and need to be purchased.  It is true that some of the primer and some of
the galvanized is burned off when the new panels/rockers are installed but
for the most part, I thought it was worthwhile.  The car on the rotisserie
was transported on a car trailer about 35 miles but was strapped down pretty
well. By the way, most of us have had quality problems with Victoria British
but their Sunbeam body parts are top notch. Another source in the UK is
Randy Willett.  Willett581 at msn.com  .  Some guys on the list recommended him
recently and he is probably the source for the VB parts.  Robin

-----Original Message-----
From: Al Fudge [mailto:AFudge at airtest.us] 
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 11:52 AM
To: Robin Young; Al Fudge; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post

Robin,

Great comments!  I will be needing to locate someone who can
professionally replace several panels, but I had been considering the
blasting before the panel replacement. I may have to reconsider that.
You moved it to the blaster on the rotisserie? On a car trailer? I was
going to build a body cart out of unistrut for transportation purposes.
The paint info is great.

Al

-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Young [mailto:Robin02 at mindspring.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:35 AM
To: Al Fudge; 'Al Fudge'; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post



-----Original Message-----
From: Al Fudge [mailto:AFudge at airtest.us]
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 2:56 AM
To: Robin Young; Al Fudge; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post Al,

A really good body guy installed eight body panels on my car while it
was on the rotisserie.  Afterwards, we hauled it to the bead blaster on
the rotisserie and used the ceramic beads to remove paint and rust to
bare metal. The beads just moved the undercoat around. It took chemicals
and rubbing to remove it.  Tim Ronack coached me through the paint
process and pointed out steel from this era was very prone to rust.  New
bonding primers, (he called them wash primers) chemically bond to well
prepared steel and protect the steel better than the building primer
that goes on next and makes the building primer adhere better so
moisture cannot cause rust under paint as was the case originally. The
undercoat you asked about is actually only stuck to a one step factory
paint.  RObin

Robin,

Two engine stands is an idea I hadn't thought of.  Makes sense.  The
undercoat has been bothering me; would the blasting remove it
(apparently not) and what is it hiding?  I was advised by Larry
Atkisson, after he looked at the car, to sell the it and buy another one
to avoid the repairs (he was very diplomatic about it).  I was unable to
sell it, and decided instead, against his better judgement to attempt to
have it repaired.  After all it is a Tiger and I have always wanted one.
We'll see how it turns out.

Al

From bamcnulty at optonline.net  Thu Jul  1 19:30:37 2010
From: bamcnulty at optonline.net (Tony McNulty)
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 21:30:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified
References: <4c2cfc18.6c30.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <3733FCEDBAAF42AD9CA809B65552B777@your4dacd0ea75>

Rowayton's right next door to where we are in Weston, CT.

Anything you want looking at?  Mine's into resto by a 2X Tiger owner, Julio 
Grosso.

Tony McNulty
B382001321 -- Original Owner 1966 Mk1a



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rande" <rande at thecia.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 4:35 PM
Subject: [Tigers] hemmings 67 IA classified


> www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/sunbeam/tiger/1066421.html
>
> Description:
> 1967 Sunbeam Tiger, full restoration in 1999, very low hours since, email 
> for
> full list of work done, very clean, fast car, VIN B382001746; Sunbeam 
> Tiger
> Owners Association certification number 294, $33,000. 917-952-9267, CT; 
> mark.sattler at ubs.com
> $33,000 mark.sattler at ubs.com
>
> I don't know the seller. This appeared as part of a Hemmings email I 
> received
> today.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bamcnulty at optonline.net

From allfudge1635 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 19:56:52 2010
From: allfudge1635 at gmail.com (Al Fudge)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 18:56:52 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] The real reasons I wanted to post
In-Reply-To: <8E3DB10CE4E74D07901F2EFC58F06DD1@student2>
References: <AANLkTimXOcY77EIFFhTuHWdX8IMAuSSNLVO-R87zv7oo@mail.gmail.com>
	<AANLkTikrXZMVyEP302gsiqYBYTCNghZASdyaprBU0Dmm@mail.gmail.com>
	<000001cb18e9$6ea33f30$4be9bd90$@com>
	<8E3DB10CE4E74D07901F2EFC58F06DD1@student2>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikbqA6-tc7HZyiQp-HU2fufy-eagA8aPmpd-OH3@mail.gmail.com>

Tom,

How late do you stay up thinking up stuff like this!  Great response and I
can only ask you how would one complete the orbit around the car? I can
easily handle the ground portion of this orbit, presumably on a NASA rated
creeper, but the levitation over the car has me stumped.  How do I do that?

Al

On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 9:30 AM, Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net> wrote:

> The rotisserie I wound up using was simple and very low cost.  It is known
> as the "Satellite" rotisserie. The mounting points are not questionable. One
> simple puts the car on jackstands (located on sturdy frame rails).  Then you
> (the satellite) rotate around the car to perform the needed tasks. This
> offers a number of advantages beyond the low cost.  With the typical
> rotisserie one needs to stand/stoop over it all day. With the satellite
> rotisserie half the tasks can be preformed comfortably lying on your back.
> When working outdoors this also provides a secondary benefit - shade!
>
> While the drawback to the satellite rotisserie is falling debris, one
> should be wearing a full face mask anyway.  A shower at the end of the day
> should also be required regardless of the rotisserie type.
>
> There are psychological perception disadvantages to the typical rotisserie
> as well.  The wife may be incline to see your "skewered" car and be thinking
> you should be BBQ-ing rather than working on your car. The kids may be
> inclined to see a rotating axis and pester you to go to the local carnival
> and get on the twisting (upside down) rides. So, when considering a
> rotisserie one needs to give full consideration to all aspects.
>
> In closing please remember if it wasn't for the 4th of July the Tiger might
> be a "Domestic" car. No offense implied to our fellow members across the
> pond.
> Tom _______________________________________________
>
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allfudge1635 at gmail.com

From allfudge1635 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 20:00:03 2010
From: allfudge1635 at gmail.com (Al Fudge)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 19:00:03 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Rotisserie
Message-ID: <AANLkTinCEbjDhdpFZhH64eTvnKPBRT2DX57mcFz4B5mf@mail.gmail.com>

I want to thank everyone who responded! I learned a lot and have made some
great connections as I progress down the road on my first total
restoration.  Maybe that's a little strong as the car will not be concours
quality, but a good solid driver that I'll be happy to enter in the local
shows.

There will be more questions as I proceed.

Thanks,

Al

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul  1 21:35:25 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu,  1 Jul 2010 21:35:25 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Tigers] List membership notes
Message-ID: <20100702033525.2A8702E061@bradakis.com>

For some reason it seems I've gotten more than the usual
number of admin messages regarding posts by a non-member
to a list.  It has been happening on a number of the many
lists I manage, not just this one.

Basically what happens is this:

People subscribe AddressA to the list.  They get the
messages at that address.

They send messages to the list from AddressB.  AddressA
is a member, AddressB is not.  The post from AddressB
is rejected as non-member spam.

Send messages from the address that is subscribed and they
won't get rejected as non-member spam.  If you aren't set
up for digest mode, the address where you get the mail is
listed in the trailer of each and every posting, right there
below the donate link.  Donate early, donate often!

If you normally send messages from AddressB, then subscribe
AddressB to the list.  If you want messages to go to AddressA
and not AddressB, then subscribe AddressB and set your mailman
options to not deliver to AddressB.

Hopefully this will assist some folks with managing Team.Net
email.

mjb.

From e.coiner at cox.net  Thu Jul  1 22:47:40 2010
From: e.coiner at cox.net (e.coiner at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 21:47:40 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
In-Reply-To: <20100702033525.2A8702E061@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20100702004740.V61VG.981982.imail@fed1rmwml29>

the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat.

Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red?  ppg products would be great.


Erich

From sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  2 06:56:12 2010
From: sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com (AC SunbeamTiger)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 05:56:12 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
In-Reply-To: <20100702004740.V61VG.981982.imail@fed1rmwml29>
References: <20100702033525.2A8702E061@bradakis.com>,
	<20100702004740.V61VG.981982.imail@fed1rmwml29>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W5953C823DF2A93E8F9A95EAFCE0@phx.gbl>

I have an email from Ron Fraser, who cites another email from James Miller,
posted to the group in 2008 with codes
 for several brands, including one for PPG:



Steve
	I'm not familiar enough with what codes a paint shop can cross
reference.

Here are some additional numbers that may help you.

Code 39  Carnival Red	Ditzler # 71144, Lucite Lacquer # 8415LH, Dulux Enamel #
84016, Chrysler part#  1 liter 75242822,
Berger code 404.0949, ICI 8385

Here is an email from James Miller:

  Here is the code for PPG DBU paint for Carnival Red. The code is 71243.

(DBU = Deltron Base Urethane )

James Miller
Elk Grove. Ca

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 08:28:58 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:28:58 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
In-Reply-To: <20100702004740.V61VG.981982.imail@fed1rmwml29>
References: <20100702033525.2A8702E061@bradakis.com>
	<20100702004740.V61VG.981982.imail@fed1rmwml29>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinlLtNe8ZDwPuSmB163tFsGXYcd2hhGfUr9v-cB@mail.gmail.com>

My guru in New Hampshire slaved over the formula, sent more than a few
samples to look at. We (He - I agreed) settled on a custom mix from Nason (I
can send you the formula; it's a bit long...). The interesting part came
when I was painting small attached parts. Norm had suggested "Guards Red" a
Porsche / VW color. The local hobby shop carries it for models. The color is
so close as to be almost indistinguishable from #39.

The problem is - as always - how much orange (actually yellow...) makes a
knockout red. See attached.

So if I was going to start somewhere I might try Hobbytown and shoot up a
sample over your choice of primer. See if that's close. Your local PPG guy
will carry their version of the real thing.

Tom

On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 12:47 AM, <e.coiner at cox.net> wrote:

> the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat.
>
> Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red?  ppg products would
> be great.
>
>
> Erich
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 9151.jpg]

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  2 10:27:43 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:27:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W5953C823DF2A93E8F9A95EAFCE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <499563.81729.qm@web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

i might be wrong, but back when i did carnival red paint research, i kept
hearing that they cant get it right anymore simply by code, too much time, too
much chemicals changing, or whatever the reason.  if you want it perfect,
someone has to use a spectophotmeter or something on a peice of original paint
under the dash or somewhere that hasnt faded and mix and mix and test and test
and eyeball to try to match it.  doug convinced me to go with guards red as
close enough and anyway can repair if needed.  i think at one point dale in CA
got one "right", he should sell the mix or the secret ingredients list...

--- On Fri, 7/2/10, AC SunbeamTiger <sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: AC SunbeamTiger <sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
To: e.coiner at cox.net, "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 8:56 AM


I have an email from Ron Fraser, who cites another email from James Miller,
posted to the group in 2008 with codes
for several brands, including one for PPG:



Steve
    I'm not familiar enough with what codes a paint shop can cross
reference.

Here are some additional numbers that may help you.

Code 39  Carnival Red    Ditzler # 71144, Lucite Lacquer # 8415LH, Dulux
Enamel #
84016, Chrysler part#  1 liter 75242822,
Berger code 404.0949, ICI 8385

Here is an email from James Miller:

  Here is the code for PPG DBU paint for Carnival Red. The code is 71243.

(DBU = Deltron Base Urethane )

James Miller
Elk Grove. Ca

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/laurin212 at yahoo.com

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  2 10:47:19 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 09:47:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] 1965 Sunbeam Tiger for Sale - $23,500
In-Reply-To: <000001cb19ed$3951d940$abf58bc0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <558942.63456.qm@web53608.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

i only have room for one now technically also since i got the wifey and baby
en route.  secret was, i bought the 3 several months before getting engaged. 
planning is everything in life.  or alternatively, buy first and ask for
forgiveness later!

--- On Fri, 7/2/10, wsamouce <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:


From: wsamouce wsamouce at kc.rr.com


If I were looking for a car, I would be all over this. Great price.  I only
have room for one Tiger :^(

Duke
B382002037

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  2 11:46:38 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:46:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
Message-ID: <41885.7650.qm@web53608.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

i might be wrong, but back when i did carnival red paint research, i kept
hearing that they cant get it right anymore simply by code, too much time, too
much chemicals changing, or whatever the reason.  if you want it perfect,
someone has to use a spectophotmeter or something on a peice of original paint
under the dash or somewhere that hasnt faded and mix and mix and test and test
and eyeball to try to match it.  doug convinced me to go with guards red as
close enough and anyway can repair if needed.  i think at one point dale in CA
got one "right", he should sell the mix or the secret ingredients list...


--- On Fri, 7/2/10, e.coiner at cox.net <e.coiner at cox.net> wrote:


From: e.coiner at cox.net <e.coiner at cox.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 12:47 AM


the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat.

Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red?  ppg products would be
great.

From rande at thecia.net  Fri Jul  2 12:51:32 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 14:51:32 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] #39 and Guards Red
Message-ID: <4c2e3534.6b64.0@thecia.net>

Hi,

It's funny that I know several owners who painted their cars Guards Red. At
the time, I thought they figured 'what's good for my 944 is good for the catcar'but
maybe they were just tipped off by Doug or other restorer.

The tip to bring a unfaded piece of the Tiger in to the paint mixer is a good
one. I don't have a Carnival Red car (it's actually Deep Canyon Red / Maroon)
but the two fuel tank retaining brackets in the trunk are #39 C.Red, and maybe
someone trying to match the color can bring one of theirs to the mixer. It comes
off with just three bolts.

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 13:18:39 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 15:18:39 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] #39 and Guards Red
In-Reply-To: <4c2e3534.6b64.0@thecia.net>
References: <4c2e3534.6b64.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimuxAy-XPF3LeE7cNYb_g_EXrGJ0NiMMDfM_ISZ@mail.gmail.com>

The problem is... regardless of where you get it, there's no such thing as
"unfaded" 40 year old paint. My dash was somewhat lighter than the color we
ended up with - and much less "intense" although it was a bit "brighter"
than the original body paint. The windshield frame is discolored, probably
because of the rubber seal. The inside of the boot was badly faded.

So... basically, #39 is "Red, with a tough of Orange" (I think that's how
Rootes described it). Looking a



On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 2:51 PM, rande <rande at thecia.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> It's funny that I know several owners who painted their cars Guards Red. At
> the time, I thought they figured 'what's good for my 944 is good for the
> catcar'but
> maybe they were just tipped off by Doug or other restorer.
>
> The tip to bring a unfaded piece of the Tiger in to the paint mixer is a
> good
> one. I don't have a Carnival Red car (it's actually Deep Canyon Red /
> Maroon)
> but the two fuel tank retaining brackets in the trunk are #39 C.Red, and
> maybe
> someone trying to match the color can bring one of theirs to the mixer. It
> comes
> off with just three bolts.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From rande at thecia.net  Fri Jul  2 14:33:19 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 16:33:19 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] red and orange
Message-ID: <4c2e4d0f.264.0@thecia.net>

Hi,

Speaking of red with a little orange (would that be a tequila sunrise? OK, it
Friday night here - almost - just guess what's on my mind) Does anyone who was
at the Santa Rosa United remember the first Tiger in the line of personalized
class in the park? It looked Orange with a touch of red. Just a stunning ride,
and this being a United, stunning was a recurring theme. And, speaking of orange,
remember the 2005 TEAE United in Alexandria Bay, NY, and the Tiger painted the
Corvette C6 metallic orange. Awesome.

From drarmacost at pmlights.com  Fri Jul  2 16:52:23 2010
From: drarmacost at pmlights.com (Armacost, Don Jr.)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 17:52:23 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] #39 and Guards Red
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimuxAy-XPF3LeE7cNYb_g_EXrGJ0NiMMDfM_ISZ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4c2e3534.6b64.0@thecia.net>
	<AANLkTimuxAy-XPF3LeE7cNYb_g_EXrGJ0NiMMDfM_ISZ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AC431FA0-B819-4501-904A-4834B0E7FC94@pmlights.com>

We recently finished repainting a 27k all original Carnival Red '65.  While it
had been repainted twice, the jams, boot and under the bonnet were original.
The interior is original and after extensive cleaning and conditioning appears
as new. Same for the original top. The car was from Georgetown, Canada and had
been garaged and stored in a climate controlled garage. We were successful in
computer matching the color from several areas and were able to touch up areas
missing in the aforementioned areas perfectly as well as do a superior
exterior. Just remember there are many areas, such as the ones mentioned that
were not buffed out like the exterior and should appear as mildly flat and not
high gloss as do all the exterior bits that should be high gloss. We used a
single stage paint and experimented with varying degrees of flattener to match
the nonbuffed areas. It can be done!

Don Armacost Jr.
President CEO
Peterson Mfg. Co.

On Jul 2, 2010, at 2:36 PM, "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941 at gmail.com> wrote:

> The problem is... regardless of where you get it, there's no such thing as
> "unfaded" 40 year old paint. My dash was somewhat lighter than the color we
> ended up with - and much less "intense" although it was a bit "brighter"
> than the original body paint. The windshield frame is discolored, probably
> because of the rubber seal. The inside of the boot was badly faded.
>
> So... basically, #39 is "Red, with a tough of Orange" (I think that's how
> Rootes described it). Looking a
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 2:51 PM, rande <rande at thecia.net> wrote:77
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> It's funny that I know several owners who painted their cars Guards Red.
At
>> the time, I thought they figured 'what's good for my 944 is good for the
>> catcar'but
>> maybe they were just tipped off by Doug or other restorer.
>>
>> The tip to bring a unfaded piece of the Tiger in to the paint mixer is a
>> good
>> one. I don't have a Carnival Red car (it's actually Deep Canyon Red /
>> Maroon)
>> but the two fuel tank retaining brackets in the trunk are #39 C.Red, and
>> maybe
>> someone trying to match the color can bring one of theirs to the mixer. It
>> comes
>> off with just three bolts.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> _______________________________________________
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>

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From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sat Jul  3 12:55:29 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 11:55:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinlLtNe8ZDwPuSmB163tFsGXYcd2hhGfUr9v-cB@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <920904.17669.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I need it in the future OR Im going to use a red I just plain old like and not
worryy about that part of original. It would be nice tho to have easy control
of obtaining the original #39.
TtT

--- On Fri, 7/2/10, Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com> wrote:


From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Carnival red paint mix numbers
To: e.coiner at cox.net
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 2, 2010, 9:28 AM


My guru in New Hampshire slaved over the formula, sent more than a few
samples to look at. We (He - I agreed) settled on a custom mix from Nason (I
can send you the formula; it's a bit long...). The interesting part came
when I was painting small attached parts. Norm had suggested "Guards Red" a
Porsche / VW color. The local hobby shop carries it for models. The color is
so close as to be almost indistinguishable from #39.

The problem is - as always - how much orange (actually yellow...) makes a
knockout red. See attached.

So if I was going to start somewhere I might try Hobbytown and shoot up a
sample over your choice of primer. See if that's close. Your local PPG guy
will carry their version of the real thing.

Tom

On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 12:47 AM, <e.coiner at cox.net> wrote:

> the shop that is repainting my Tiger is nearly ready for the color coat.
>
> Does anyone have a mix number for code 39 Carnival red?  ppg products would
> be great.
>
>
> Erich
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
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_______________________________________________
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From fordlandia at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul  3 15:52:21 2010
From: fordlandia at sbcglobal.net (Bill Waite)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:52:21 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Bounced of List...
References: <361050.43866.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A472A9CE61744D2DBE3F01E472898C61@BLUEOVAL>

Tiger listers...

Somehow (have no clue) I no longer am receiving e-mails from the list.  I 
went through the suggested "subscribe" process... but no emails for about 
three or four days.  Can someone point me to the proper place (and or 
method) to get me back on the list?

Thanks!

Bill Waite

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Sat Jul  3 16:35:05 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 15:35:05 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Cooling Hoses - The Real Story!
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0458BE6B@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
References: <68a2d.3046c5e.395df849@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0458BE6B@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <4C2FBB19.6020600@socal.rr.com>

Mark, and John,

Totally agree about the internal water hoses should have. Especially 
important on the inlet hose, due to pump suction collapsing the hose.  
The you are "really hosed".

On the original request for the correct hoses means, I believe, for the 
Original Hose Clamps that were on teh car when it left the factory.

I believe they were "double-wire" type, not worm drive, and CAD plated, 
not stainless.

Here are a few references:

Heater hoses, and such:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Two_spring_Hose_Clamps_-_small.jpg


The original radiator hose clamps (I Think) ($ 2.05) can be seen on:

http://www.englishparts.com/products/CLAMP--RADIATOR-HOSE-WIRE-TYPE--1-38-TO-1-916-IN-HOSE/7275/326-430.html

TBON (The Book of Norman) shows the water and oil cap vent hoses with 
the "wire-type", and heater as the simple plain clamp band.  He says 
(pp153):

 "All 1/2" hoses were CAD plated English "band clamps.".
 "All 5/8" hose clamps used CAD plated English "double wire clamps" at 
all but three locations."
 "The water pump by-pass hose was clamped with CAD plated Ford screw 
clamps at both ends"
 "The heater core return hose was clamped with a CAD plated Ford screw 
clamped with clamp at the elbow manifold fitting.
 "Upper and lower radiator hoses were clamped with CAD plated English 
double wire clamps"

Now. are you SURE you want that 100 point concourse  medal?

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote:
> Just make sure that the bottom hose you buy has the internal spring
> support included. Otherwise it will collapse due to the heat and suction
> and can starve your engine of vital coolant. Save your old hoses if just
> for the internal spring support.
> _______________________________________________

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Sat Jul  3 17:34:51 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 16:34:51 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] List membership notes
In-Reply-To: <20100702033525.2A8702E061@bradakis.com>
References: <20100702033525.2A8702E061@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4C2FC91B.6030304@socal.rr.com>

Bill,

Here is the guy you should talk to about "list bounced" or your 
subscription/address/list issues:

 <mark at bradakis.com>fordlandia at sbcglobal.net

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Mark J Bradan's wrote:
> For some reason it seems I've gotten more than the usual
> number of admin messages regarding posts by a non-member
> to a list.  It has been happening on a number of the many
> lists I manage, not just this one.
>
> Basically what happens is this:
>
> People subscribe AddressA to the list.  They get the
> messages at that address.
>
> They send messages to the list from AddressB.  AddressA
> is a member, AddressB is not.  The post from AddressB
> is rejected as non-member spam.
>
> Send messages from the address that is subscribed and they
> won't get rejected as non-member spam.  If you aren't set
> up for digest mode, the address where you get the mail is
> listed in the trailer of each and every posting, right there
> below the donate link.  Donate early, donate often!
>
> If you normally send messages from AddressB, then subscribe
> AddressB to the list.  If you want messages to go to AddressA
> and not AddressB, then subscribe AddressB and set your mailman
> options to not deliver to AddressB.
>
> Hopefully this will assist some folks with managing Team.Net
> email.
>
> mjb.

From packertl3 at yahoo.com  Sat Jul  3 18:23:45 2010
From: packertl3 at yahoo.com (Terry Packer)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 17:23:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Mirror Re-Silvering Service
In-Reply-To: <4C2FBB19.6020600@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <285231.86518.qm@web110114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

My apology if this information has been posted in the recent past. But for those interested in having a mirror re-silvered, one source is Robert Easthope of "Reflections Again" in San Jose, CA. His primary business is furniture re-finishing. However, he has been re-silvering mirrors regularly for a long time. Bob did my Tiger's inside mirror many years ago and I just had it done again. 

(BTW, the reason I had the mirror re-done is because the small amount of mirror mastic I installed it with, apparently attacked the silver despite the sealing paint applied to the mirror and the fact that a mirror specific product should have been safe. Live and learn!)

You should be aware that if the backside of your mirror has deteriorated badly, the glass itself can become etched or scratched, which may only become apparent after the mirror has been re-silvered. Bob can usually correct these issues but at additional cost for reworking the mirror one or more times. One alternative is to accept imperfections which may exist in the glass itself and consider it part of your car's overall patina. Another alternative is just to source a modern replacement glass which will almost certainly appear more perfect than your re-worked original. 

Feel free to write off-line if there are any questions I can answer regarding my experiences with Reflections Again. The usual disclaimer applies - I have no relationship with or interest in Reflections Again. Except that I did specifically ask Bob if he wanted to invite automotive type jobs, as they tend to be small and involve shipping. He said yes, so I offered to post this reference to his business. However, I received no discount or other consideration for doing so. (Maybe I should have negotiated harder!)

Reflections Again
Robert Easthope
1260 Yard Court, Suite H
San Jose, CA 95133
408-971-8389
www.MirrorResilvering.com

Terry Packer
9470018

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Jul  3 21:49:16 2010
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:49:16 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <285231.86518.qm@web110114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <4C2FBB19.6020600@socal.rr.com>
	<285231.86518.qm@web110114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>

Hey guys,

I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600
miles to TE/AE United 2010.  The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in
diameter and 935 revs per mile.   If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in
diameter and 914 revs per mile.  I am trying to figure out if the gas
savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting.

I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out.  I am currently
running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear).  I plan on running the same speed,
with cruise control, all the way to Maine.  The larger tire would allow me
to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. 

TIA!

Duke
B382002037

From s_ralsten at yahoo.com  Sat Jul  3 23:26:46 2010
From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten)
Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:26:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <857361.19545.qm@web120109.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Well I think you would come up a bit short. No math wiz here but I'll try
based on your claimed rev numbers your effficency would improve by .9775 %.
You dont include your current MPG at 78Mph but assuming you now get 20MPG you
would improve to about 20.2MPG. in a 1600 mile trip you would use 80 gallons.
With the $170 tire purchase you'd cut that to 79.2 Gallons. At $3 gallon you'd
save less than $3. If your current MPG is better than 20 your savings would be
even less.
 
Maybe someone will show I made a mistake

--- On Sat, 7/3/10, wsamouce <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:


From: wsamouce <wsamouce at kc.rr.com>
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, July 3, 2010, 8:49 PM


Hey guys,

I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600
miles to TE/AE United 2010.  The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in
diameter and 935 revs per mile.   If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in
diameter and 914 revs per mile.  I am trying to figure out if the gas
savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting.

I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out.  I am currently
running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear).  I plan on running the same speed,
with cruise control, all the way to Maine.  The larger tire would allow me
to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed.

TIA!

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten at yahoo.com

From dave at munroe.ca  Sun Jul  4 04:30:23 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 07:30:23 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
References: <4C2FBB19.6020600@socal.rr.com><285231.86518.qm@web110114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <BCBCB90D1DD34A8A8FE6AC000B0C7E82@DavePC>

Hi Duke:

I have been doing the same calculation but for a different reason: I want 
less sturm & drang from the engine room, not just better fuel economy. 
Spending 17 hours at highway speeds with the"racket" reduced is a big 
incentive for me.

I have driven to Midcoast, Maine the last two years to the annual "Tiger" 
gathering at the Owl's Head Museum and both times got approx 25 miles to the 
Canadian gal. (~21 miles/U.S. gal.) for the 1500 mile return trip.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fuel-consumption-converter-d_850.html

My car also has a 3:09 rear end, but I am running 205x50Rx15 rear tires 
(23.07" dia) 901.6 revs/mile. Absolutely no clearance problems on stock, 
unmodified rear wheel arches.

But I think you should consider a different size - try 195x70x13. Should fit 
no problem, and you get 876 revs/mile, a significant difference: 6.45%.

Here's a great calculator to make this comparison easy:
http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit&reset=yes

Only problem is, tire manufacturers recommend you don't change tire size 
more than 3% for fear of the risk of brake failure. I have no idea how great 
this danger might be, but I am running Wilwoods and vented discs up front, 
with stock brakes in the rear, so I'm not too concerned. Do you have 
upgraded brakes?

Dave
One way or another - see you there....




Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?


> Hey guys,
>
> I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 
> 1600
> miles to TE/AE United 2010.  The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in
> diameter and 935 revs per mile.   If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 
> in
> diameter and 914 revs per mile.  I am trying to figure out if the gas
> savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting.
>
> I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out.  I am currently
> running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear).  I plan on running the same speed,
> with cruise control, all the way to Maine.  The larger tire would allow me
> to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed.
>
> TIA!
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Jul  4 05:28:01 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 07:28:01 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <E5E314060A6D47C3A74665FB1CB89B91@ronpc1>

Duke
	I'm not sure your numbers are that accurate.   I prefer to run the
numbers using the measured circumference of the tire.   There is also the
question of how accurate is your speedometer and tachometer.   Measure your
tire circumference and re-calculate.  The stock Tiger tire I believe had a
diameter around 23.7" so unless your buying a tire close to that size I
don't think you will see much MPG improvement from just the tires.

	I'm not sure where you can drive 78 mph all the time but here in NY
State you would be getting tickets all day long.   This state is short on
money, just like many others, and one way to generate more cash is to catch
more speeders. The Police have reduced their max speed tolerance to match
the State's need for income.  One speeding ticket would overshadow any MPG
savings not to mention putting a damper on the trip.   Slowing down a bit
should increase your MPG.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of wsamouce
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 11:49 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?


Hey guys,

I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600
miles to TE/AE United 2010.  The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in
diameter and 935 revs per mile.   If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in
diameter and 914 revs per mile.  I am trying to figure out if the gas
savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting.

I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out.  I am currently
running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear).  I plan on running the same speed,
with cruise control, all the way to Maine.  The larger tire would allow me
to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed.

TIA!

Duke
B382002037
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2977 - Release Date: 07/02/10
06:35:00

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sun Jul  4 06:47:22 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 22:47:22 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <E5E314060A6D47C3A74665FB1CB89B91@ronpc1>
References: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
	<E5E314060A6D47C3A74665FB1CB89B91@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <AANLkTiktytCX_sZagMlKDf3U7Vi_J4oytc6LAwFBgmpe@mail.gmail.com>

Duke,

I have to agree, unless you are nocking off a significant number of RPM,
minimum 500.. and more likely 1000 you are not going to see much gain in
terms of savings, especially if you are offsetting it against cost for tyres
for a particular trip.

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From dave at munroe.ca  Sun Jul  4 06:48:28 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:48:28 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
Message-ID: <F7FF709D545C4634AC784E56CCF2725C@DavePC>

 Hi Duke:

 I have been doing the same calculation but for a different reason: I want
 less sturm & drang from the engine room, not just better fuel economy.
 Spending 17 hours at highway speeds with the"racket" reduced is a big
 incentive for me.

 I have driven to Midcoast, Maine the last two years to the annual "Tiger"
 gathering at the Owl's Head Museum and both times got approx 25 miles to 
the
 Canadian gal. (~21 miles/U.S. gal.) for the 1500 mile return trip.
 http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fuel-consumption-converter-d_850.html

 My car also has a 3:09 rear end, but I am running 205x50Rx15 rear tires
 (23.07" dia) 901.6 revs/mile. Absolutely no clearance problems on stock,
 unmodified rear wheel arches.

 But I think you should consider a different size - try 195x70x13. Should 
fit
 no problem, and you get 876 revs/mile, a significant difference: 6.45%.

 Here's a great calculator to make this comparison easy:
 http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp?action=submit&reset=yes

 Only problem is, tire manufacturers recommend you don't change tire size
 more than 3% for fear of the risk of brake failure. I have no idea how 
great
 this danger might be, but I am running Wilwoods and vented discs up front,
 with stock brakes in the rear, so I'm not too concerned. Do you have
 upgraded brakes?

 Dave
 One way or another - see you there....

From mikeflbmer at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  4 08:18:44 2010
From: mikeflbmer at yahoo.com (mike schreiner)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 07:18:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage
Message-ID: <551172.84016.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED!

From e.coiner at cox.net  Sun Jul  4 09:10:45 2010
From: e.coiner at cox.net (e.coiner at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 8:10:45 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20100704111045.NIV9J.1002578.imail@fed1rmwml39>

Short answer to your question.  No.

Long answer below
You are overthinking this whole thing.  
For round numbers.  Assume your tiger gets 16 mpg.  (mine gets 13 city 17 hwy)
You will burn 1600/16 = 100 gallons of gas.  At 3.00 per gallon you will use spend $300 on gas. To save $170 you spend on tires, you would have to increase your gas mileage to  spend only $130 on gas.  At $3/gal you could burn 130/3=43 gallons.
1600/43=37 mpg.  Do you think a 22.8/22.4= 2% increase in tire diameter is going to more than double your mpg?
not to mention the diameter change will make your speedo inaccurate and your gas mileage calc will be in error anyway.
Summary to long answer: No.

If you were really interested in saving gas you would set the cruise at 60mpg and you would save 10% or more.

If you need tires buy them, otherwise put the top down and enjoy the drive.  If you are worried about expenses rent a Kia and get 35 mpg

---- wsamouce <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote: 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600
> miles to TE/AE United 2010.  The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in
> diameter and 935 revs per mile.   If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in
> diameter and 914 revs per mile.  I am trying to figure out if the gas
> savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting.
> 
> I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out.  I am currently
> running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear).  I plan on running the same speed,
> with cruise control, all the way to Maine.  The larger tire would allow me
> to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed. 
> 
> TIA!
> 
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net

From AAAGLASSS at aol.com  Sun Jul  4 09:28:03 2010
From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 11:28:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage
Message-ID: <243d2.1da3b025.39620283@aol.com>

_http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html_ 
(http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html) 
 
 
In a message dated 7/4/2010 8:14:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mikeflbmer at yahoo.com writes:

I have a  2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM  SOLVED!
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
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From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sun Jul  4 09:28:44 2010
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 10:28:44 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage
In-Reply-To: <551172.84016.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <551172.84016.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb1b8d$97692460$c63b6d20$@rr.com>

$4000 to install a 5 speed ='s 1538 gallons of fuel (@$2.60 a gal).  

@16 mpg (current mileage) ='s 24,608 miles.
@26 mpg (possible with overdrive 5 speed) ='s 39,998 miles

15,380 miles more with same amount of fuel.

I would have to make the 3200 mile round trip 4.8 times to pay for the 5
speed.

I have done some work on my distributer with Ron Fraser's help.  I also plan
on installing smaller primary jets for the trip.  Need to do another mileage
check.

Duke
B382002037



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mike schreiner
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 9:19 AM
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage

 I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED!
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Jul  4 09:28:56 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 11:28:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage
In-Reply-To: <551172.84016.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9BFC5EB23AA14AC19989DAA3D5BA85EB@ronpc1>

Mike 
	Excellent, what do you get for gas mileage?

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mike schreiner
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 10:19 AM
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage


 I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED!
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From mikeflbmer at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  4 09:37:31 2010
From: mikeflbmer at yahoo.com (mike schreiner)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 08:37:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] 5 Speed
Message-ID: <679086.8893.qm@web54307.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I built the 5 speed myself for $500.   Mustang v8 T5 from u-pull it for $300.  and a Chevy S10 T5 from a U pull it for $75.00  ....switched top plate and shifter housing to make it fit in x frame....had to replace front input shaft and bearing  $125.00   the rest appears to be fine....car is not done yet  so no road test or gas milage test yet  (working on my Alpine instead)   mike

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  4 10:37:32 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 12:37:32 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] flyingtigerbear
Message-ID: <6345ECC1E3E04E04A228B19F163DED06@PETERHOME>

can "flyingtigerbear" from the CAT forum send me an email

thks
peter

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Sun Jul  4 11:50:39 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 13:50:39 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Gas mileage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <20100704111045.NIV9J.1002578.imail@fed1rmwml39>
Message-ID: <C856422F.3AE4%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Agreed.  All true, but we also have to consider that the improved mileage,
albeit negligible, would continue to remain for the life of the car, not
just for this single trip.  Right?


On 7/4/10 11:10 AM, "e.coiner at cox.net" <e.coiner at cox.net> wrote:

> Short answer to your question.  No.
> 
> Long answer below
> You are overthinking this whole thing.
> For round numbers.  Assume your tiger gets 16 mpg.  (mine gets 13 city 17 hwy)
> You will burn 1600/16 = 100 gallons of gas.  At 3.00 per gallon you will use
> spend $300 on gas. To save $170 you spend on tires, you would have to increase
> your gas mileage to  spend only $130 on gas.  At $3/gal you could burn
> 130/3=43 gallons.
> 1600/43=37 mpg.  Do you think a 22.8/22.4= 2% increase in tire diameter is
> going to more than double your mpg?
> not to mention the diameter change will make your speedo inaccurate and your
> gas mileage calc will be in error anyway.
> Summary to long answer: No.
> 
> If you were really interested in saving gas you would set the cruise at 60mpg
> and you would save 10% or more.
> 
> If you need tires buy them, otherwise put the top down and enjoy the drive.
> If you are worried about expenses rent a Kia and get 35 mpg
> 
> ---- wsamouce <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:
>> Hey guys,
>> 
>> I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600
>> miles to TE/AE United 2010.  The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in
>> diameter and 935 revs per mile.   If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8 in
>> diameter and 914 revs per mile.  I am trying to figure out if the gas
>> savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting.
>> 
>> I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out.  I am currently
>> running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear).  I plan on running the same speed,
>> with cruise control, all the way to Maine.  The larger tire would allow me
>> to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed.
>> 
>> TIA!
>> 
>> Duke
>> B382002037
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From mikeflbmer at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  4 13:05:31 2010
From: mikeflbmer at yahoo.com (mike schreiner)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 12:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] 5 speed
Message-ID: <127662.64393.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I only had to trim an inch or two on side lip (in front of the X Frame)...No cut out of X frame needed.....I used the T5 302 bell housing....choose not to buy adapter to tilt tranny (so it would come out orig shifter hole)....but could have gone that way....stock bell housing with mustang T5 adapter......so my shifter comes out on top center, slightly in front of orig shifter hole...put on fake T handle short shifter.....That is one of the plus's of having an Alger....improvements  made are not so critical to originality...it is all installed but not running yet ...and clutch slave not worked out yet or rear tranny mount...mike

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  4 15:59:35 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 17:59:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <E5E314060A6D47C3A74665FB1CB89B91@ronpc1>
References: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
	<E5E314060A6D47C3A74665FB1CB89B91@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim_M_tHuzKw2rMH9n4ujeY5u0lMuv7FSqI9Esee@mail.gmail.com>

I went scurrying to the workshop manual. The original Tiger tires were
listed as 5-90x 13 with a rolling radius of 11.5 inches (Diameter 23
inches). I'm not interested in mileage necessarily, more interested in a bit
more ground clearance, so I was shooting for a diameter @ 24". I could
probably get some of that with new springs, but I need the tires anyway;
mine are thirty years old.

Either way if you go to a larger tire the speedometer will be off by a bit ,
but I'm sure there are shops that can calibrate it for me (Nisonger does
it). Anyhow, a 22 or so inch diameter tire will run at a somewhat higher
engine speed than a 24" tire. Wiki tells me C = Pi x D, so a tire with a 22
inch diameter rolls a bit more than 69 inches per revolution, a 23 inch
diameter tire rolls @ 72 1/4 inches per revolution,a 24 inch diameter tire
rolls a bit less than 75 1/2 inches per revolution.

I'll leave it to the engineers to complete the calculations, but it would
appear at first glance that going from a 23 inch diameter tire to a 24 inch
diameter tire isn't going to save you a lot of gas.

Tom
' 67 Mark 2

On Sun, Jul 4, 2010 at 7:28 AM, Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Duke
>        I'm not sure your numbers are that accurate.   I prefer to run the
> numbers using the measured circumference of the tire.   There is also the
> question of how accurate is your speedometer and tachometer.   Measure your
> tire circumference and re-calculate.  The stock Tiger tire I believe had a
> diameter around 23.7" so unless your buying a tire close to that size I
> don't think you will see much MPG improvement from just the tires.
>
>        I'm not sure where you can drive 78 mph all the time but here in NY
> State you would be getting tickets all day long.   This state is short on
> money, just like many others, and one way to generate more cash is to catch
> more speeders. The Police have reduced their max speed tolerance to match
> the State's need for income.  One speeding ticket would overshadow any MPG
> savings not to mention putting a damper on the trip.   Slowing down a bit
> should increase your MPG.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of wsamouce
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 11:49 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I am thinking about a bigger rear tire to save me some $$ when driving 1600
> miles to TE/AE United 2010.  The Sumitomo's I have (195/60R13) are 22.4 in
> diameter and 935 revs per mile.   If I go to the 205/60R13, they are 22.8
> in
> diameter and 914 revs per mile.  I am trying to figure out if the gas
> savings would offset the $170 cost of the tires with mounting.
>
> I just can't get my head around the math to figure it out.  I am currently
> running 3600 RPM at 78 MPH (3.07 gear).  I plan on running the same speed,
> with cruise control, all the way to Maine.  The larger tire would allow me
> to run at 3535 RPM for the same speed.
>
> TIA!
>
> Duke
> B382002037
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2977 - Release Date: 07/02/10
> 06:35:00
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sun Jul  4 17:24:04 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 09:24:04 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage
In-Reply-To: <000001cb1b8d$97692460$c63b6d20$@rr.com>
References: <551172.84016.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<000001cb1b8d$97692460$c63b6d20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilWBlw5U16qi_Kbvoy-oA2hR6o_4RRJO1jWURTx@mail.gmail.com>

Duke,

The other advantage of the 5 speed is not just saving in MPG.. but also
engine life.. and when you go to that stroker eventually.. it might well all
shake out for you... but in real terms.. we dont buy these cars to save on
gas :-) .. or perhaps convert it to a Series V 1725... you can probably get
32mpg and should fit in a tiger engine bay without to many mods!!

On 5 July 2010 01:28, wsamouce <wsamouce at kc.rr.com> wrote:

> $4000 to install a 5 speed ='s 1538 gallons of fuel (@$2.60 a gal).
>
> @16 mpg (current mileage) ='s 24,608 miles.
> @26 mpg (possible with overdrive 5 speed) ='s 39,998 miles
>
> 15,380 miles more with same amount of fuel.
>
> I would have to make the 3200 mile round trip 4.8 times to pay for the 5
> speed.
>
> I have done some work on my distributer with Ron Fraser's help.  I also
> plan
> on installing smaller primary jets for the trip.  Need to do another
> mileage
> check.
>
> Duke
> B382002037
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of mike schreiner
> Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 9:19 AM
> To: Tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Gas Milage
>
>  I have a 2:88 with a 5 speed....PROBLEM SOLVED!
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sun Jul  4 17:31:45 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 16:31:45 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
References: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
	<E5E314060A6D47C3A74665FB1CB89B91@ronpc1>
	<AANLkTim_M_tHuzKw2rMH9n4ujeY5u0lMuv7FSqI9Esee@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9873141A19DD49EF8F0BA13BBC4E57EB@student2>

Back in 2003 Ron Fraiser sent this to the list:

>>>Good Question about the original tires.   I don't know the real answer; I 
>>>can only reverse engineer the size of the tire from the printed facts in 
>>>the
manual and on hand.

Original Tire = 5.90 x 13 - not much help here.

1-From the Tiger Manual - 23.92mph @ 1000 rpm Calculate tire size using 2.88 
gears Tire circumference = 72.75" - Diam. = 23.15"

2-Let's calculate again using the speedometer gear ratios. Speedo cal# = 980 
rev/mi, speedo cable gear = 15 teeth,
trans drive gear # B7C-17285-A = 6 teeth, 2.88 gears
This gives you 24.49mph @ 1000rpm

Tire circumference = 74.48" -  Diam = 23.71"<<<


A number of years ago (6 years to be more accurate) Jim Boynton sent me the 
circumference of his original, barely used spare tire. It was 74.875".

So, for those that want to be "factory accurate" take your pick.  72.25", 
74.48", or 74.875 as each has its merits.  In closing his post Ron wrote, "I 
hope this helps and doesn't confuse people too much." I would agree.

Tom (Witt)

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Jul  4 17:52:33 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 19:52:33 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim_M_tHuzKw2rMH9n4ujeY5u0lMuv7FSqI9Esee@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <15FC0235B4354ADEA8883C6B5A64A95D@ronpc1>

Tom
    I never liked working with rolling radius or tire diameter.  They are
vague terms, IMO, due to tire wear, the tire manufacturer and other factors.
I prefer to measure the circumference and work from that number.   The
radius or diameter of a tire can be difficult to measure but the
circumference is not.

Getting an accurate speedometer reading depends on the tire size, the
gearing, the speedometer you have and the gear ratio on the speedometer
cable.

Ron Fraser


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941 at gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 6:00 PM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com
Cc: wsamouce; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?


I went scurrying to the workshop manual. The original Tiger tires were
listed as 5-90x 13 with a rolling radius of 11.5 inches (Diameter 23
inches). I'm not interested in mileage necessarily, more interested in a bit
more ground clearance, so I was shooting for a diameter @ 24". I could
probably get some of that with new springs, but I need the tires anyway;
mine are thirty years old.

Either way if you go to a larger tire the speedometer will be off by a bit ,
but I'm sure there are shops that can calibrate it for me (Nisonger does
it). Anyhow, a 22 or so inch diameter tire will run at a somewhat higher
engine speed than a 24" tire. Wiki tells me C = Pi x D, so a tire with a 22
inch diameter rolls a bit more than 69 inches per revolution, a 23 inch
diameter tire rolls @ 72 1/4 inches per revolution,a 24 inch diameter tire
rolls a bit less than 75 1/2 inches per revolution.

I'll leave it to the engineers to complete the calculations, but it would
appear at first glance that going from a 23 inch diameter tire to a 24 inch
diameter tire isn't going to save you a lot of gas.

Tom
' 67 Mark 2

From jim at island.net  Sun Jul  4 19:41:17 2010
From: jim at island.net (Jim)
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 18:41:17 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <9873141A19DD49EF8F0BA13BBC4E57EB@student2>
References: <000001cb1b2b$e0750460$a15f0d20$@rr.com>
	<E5E314060A6D47C3A74665FB1CB89B91@ronpc1>
	<AANLkTim_M_tHuzKw2rMH9n4ujeY5u0lMuv7FSqI9Esee@mail.gmail.com>
	<9873141A19DD49EF8F0BA13BBC4E57EB@student2>
Message-ID: <088A33CC-2A07-4F87-971B-243C48E2C799@island.net>

Measuring the 'off car' circumferance doesn't give you a very accurate  
'tire revs. Per mile' as it's compressed on the bottom making the  
rolling diameter slightly smaller. When I sent the numbers to get a  
custom speedo gear for my Sprite/B210 5 sp. Conversion they asked that  
I mark the tire and ground with a chalk mark and then roll the car one  
tire revolution and make another mark on the ground and take a  
measurement between them to show 'rolling' circumferance...

Jim
B382000446

Sent from my iPhone

On 2010-07-04, at 4:31 PM, "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net> wrote:

> Back in 2003 Ron Fraiser sent this to the list:
>
>>>> Good Question about the original tires.   I don't know the real  
>>>> answer; I can only reverse engineer the size of the tire from the  
>>>> printed facts in the
> manual and on hand.
>
> Original Tire = 5.90 x 13 - not much help here.
>
> 1-From the Tiger Manual - 23.92mph @ 1000 rpm Calculate tire size  
> using 2.88 gears Tire circumference = 72.75" - Diam. = 23.15"
>
> 2-Let's calculate again using the speedometer gear ratios. Speedo  
> cal# = 980 rev/mi, speedo cable gear = 15 teeth,
> trans drive gear # B7C-17285-A = 6 teeth, 2.88 gears
> This gives you 24.49mph @ 1000rpm
>
> Tire circumference = 74.48" -  Diam = 23.71"<<<
>
>
> A number of years ago (6 years to be more accurate) Jim Boynton sent  
> me the circumference of his original, barely used spare tire. It was  
> 74.875".
>
> So, for those that want to be "factory accurate" take your pick.   
> 72.25", 74.48", or 74.875 as each has its merits.  In closing his  
> post Ron wrote, "I hope this helps and doesn't confuse people too  
> much." I would agree.
>
> Tom (Witt)
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim at island.net

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sun Jul  4 23:10:14 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 22:10:14 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <857361.19545.qm@web120109.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <857361.19545.qm@web120109.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C316936.8090404@mayfco.com>

Resent...list owner said too long
mayf
Duke, all....
The issue of better fuel mileage seems to periodically pop up, which is
not a bad thing.  The Sunbeam's drag coefficient is published at 0.45,
which amounts to it being a rolling brick.  At a generally constant
speed, drag, which directly translates to hp and tq needed to move the
car down the road, you can generally estimate the power needs based on
the summation of the drag forces. At least to the point where you can
convince yourselves that a change in driving habits is needed for better
mileage, lol.  In this case, we'll run some numbers assuming that
getting to speed is done in a gentle fashion and not in some screaming
kamakazi banzai manner.  We'll start here:
frontal area is approximately 17.9 sq ft
Cd is 0.45

We won't use the mechanical or rolling resistance losses since they will
be fairly constant is the range of highway speeds we'll look at

Drag =  1/2 * rho * V * V * A * Cd
   rho = air density, in slugs.. and we will use a STP value of  0.0023718
   V = car speed in ft/sec  for th etwo cases, we will use 78 mph =
114.4 ft/sec  and 70 mph = 102.7 ft /sec.

Plugging in    Drag (78) = 0.5 * 0.0023718 * 114.4 * 114.4 * 17.9 * 0.45
=  125.02 lbs

                   Drag (70) = 0.5 * 0.0023718 * 102.7 * 102.7 * 17.9 *
0.45 =  100.8 lbs

HP(78)   = Drag (78) * 114.4 / 550 =  26.004 hp

HP(78)   = Drag (70) * 102.7 / 550 = 18.8 hp

As mentioed, mechanical losses and rolling resistance adds to the power
required.  As can bee seen, the power difference is significant. And
that power requires fuel in direct proportion. It all points to the old
adage of  "Speed costs, how fast do you want to go?"  The best fuel
mileage can be had by simply going slower. In this case a drop from 78
mph to 70 will increase your mileage quite a bit. But, it also depends
on the other two facors as well.  If you have happy feet then it is
going to get worse mileage, happy feet being the ones that are
constantly twiddling with the gas pedal: everytime you do that, it pumps
raw fuel into the carb through the accelerator pump.

So, my suggestions?
First, slow down

Second, get larger skinnier tires as fat ones have a lot more rolling
resistance. In fact maybe some old bias belted tires that can be pumped
up hard. High tire pressures reduce rolling resistance in those tires.
Also get skinnier tires on the front and keep them pumped up.

Third, get an AFR meter, not even a fancy wideband. Just one of those
that have led lights and show rich or lean. Then tune the car for as
lean or as close to stoic as you can. Then drive it with the AFR meter
lean side led lit.

Fourth, maybe get a old timey vacuum meter and put it on the dash as
well. A high vacuum means best economy.

Fifth, keep it tuned. Get an electronic dizzy or innerds like Pertronic.

I hope this may help. But, as in all things, your milage may vary..

mayf

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Sun Jul  4 23:11:28 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 22:11:28 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <000901cb1ba2$76a86370$63f92a50$@rr.com>
References: <857361.19545.qm@web120109.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4C30AF21.6090400@mayfco.com> <000901cb1ba2$76a86370$63f92a50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4C316980.7070703@mayfco.com>

resent, list owner said too big...
mayf

Duke, heck, unless you have an EFI setup where you can modify the tune
to get a specific table full of AFR values, then you wont need a
wideband setup. The ones that address 14.7 AFR or stoic conditons shoudl
be far and away enough.  You will always be trying to run best economy
which is lean in your case.  Unless you want to rejet and go auocrossing
or something then you want a best power AFR of about 12.5.  If that's
the case, then get an Innovate or similar with an ondash readout. I use
an Innovate LC-1 with an X-1 display which can also record I think (I
use a stand alone data logger so this is not important to me).  Spendy,
but, less so than a few years ago.  If you go with a race fuel then by
all means ge the less expensive one as leaded fuel kills sensors.

By a big box of jets lol...

Use the smallest stroke on the accel pump and a less aggressive accel
pump cam.  If that's the kind of carb you have.  Keep the air cleaner
very clean.

mayf
wsamouce wrote:

>Yep, 
>
>Looks like slowing down a few mph will be the best savings.  
>
>I'll pump the Sumitomo's up to 48 lbs.  
>
>Been really wanting to install a WB AFR sensor, it keeps getting bumped down
>the list though.  
>
>I have Accell electronic guts in the distributer and MSD wires.
>
>Will put the hard top on and hopefully can run with the windows up in
>October.
>
>Thanks to you all for all of the tips and comments.
>
>Duke
>B382002037

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Jul  5 05:49:48 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 07:49:48 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <088A33CC-2A07-4F87-971B-243C48E2C799@island.net>
Message-ID: <48F719DC1DFA47A7AEA9D3C442AF4D57@ronpc1>

Jim
	I have never seen a race team ever measure a tire like that, they
always check the circumference, but I have never compared the measured
circumference to the roll the car one tire revolution method.  Yes the
weight of the car compresses the diameter of the tire some but I doubt very
much that the tire circumference can change more than a mm.  It does pose an
interesting experiment to compare these 2 methods.  Tire wear can change the
diameter by of the tire .5" or more; this changes the circumference the
most.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 9:41 PM
To: Thomas Witt
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?


Measuring the 'off car' circumferance doesn't give you a very accurate
'tire revs. Per mile' as it's compressed on the bottom making the
rolling diameter slightly smaller. When I sent the numbers to get a
custom speedo gear for my Sprite/B210 5 sp. Conversion they asked that
I mark the tire and ground with a chalk mark and then roll the car one
tire revolution and make another mark on the ground and take a
measurement between them to show 'rolling' circumferance...

Jim
B382000446

Sent from my iPhone

On 2010-07-04, at 4:31 PM, "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net> wrote:

> Back in 2003 Ron Fraiser sent this to the list:
>
>>>> Good Question about the original tires.   I don't know the real
>>>> answer; I can only reverse engineer the size of the tire from the
>>>> printed facts in the
> manual and on hand.
>
> Original Tire = 5.90 x 13 - not much help here.
>
> 1-From the Tiger Manual - 23.92mph @ 1000 rpm Calculate tire size
> using 2.88 gears Tire circumference = 72.75" - Diam. = 23.15"
>
> 2-Let's calculate again using the speedometer gear ratios. Speedo
> cal# = 980 rev/mi, speedo cable gear = 15 teeth,
> trans drive gear # B7C-17285-A = 6 teeth, 2.88 gears
> This gives you 24.49mph @ 1000rpm
>
> Tire circumference = 74.48" -  Diam = 23.71"<<<
>
>
> A number of years ago (6 years to be more accurate) Jim Boynton sent
> me the circumference of his original, barely used spare tire. It was
> 74.875".
>
> So, for those that want to be "factory accurate" take your pick.
> 72.25", 74.48", or 74.875 as each has its merits.  In closing his
> post Ron wrote, "I hope this helps and doesn't confuse people too
> much." I would agree.
>
> Tom (Witt)
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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06:35:00

From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  5 09:23:13 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 08:23:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
In-Reply-To: <4C316936.8090404@mayfco.com>
References: <857361.19545.qm@web120109.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4C316936.8090404@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <686697.37969.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Why not do what they do in Kentucky.
Put 13 in wheels on the front and 15
in on the back.
This way you are always driving downhill.

Then get one of
those secret 200 mpg carbs
that Detroit is hiding.

Dave  90degrees on July
4th..Damn Global warming!




________________________________
From: drmayf
<drmayf at mayfco.com>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 1:10:14
AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?

Resent...list owner
said too long
mayf
Duke, all....
The issue of better fuel mileage seems to
periodically pop up, which is
not a bad thing.  The Sunbeam's drag coefficient
is published at 0.45,
which amounts to it being a rolling brick.  At a
generally constant
speed, drag, which directly translates to hp and tq needed
to move the
car down the road, you can generally estimate the power needs
based on
the summation of the drag forces. At least to the point where you can
convince yourselves that a change in driving habits is needed for better
mileage, lol.  In this case, we'll run some numbers assuming that
getting to
speed is done in a gentle fashion and not in some screaming
kamakazi banzai
manner.  We'll start here:
frontal area is approximately 17.9 sq ft
Cd is 0.45
We won't use the mechanical or rolling resistance losses since they will
be
fairly constant is the range of highway speeds we'll look at

Drag =  1/2 *
rho * V * V * A * Cd
  rho = air density, in slugs.. and we will use a STP
value of  0.0023718
  V = car speed in ft/sec  for th etwo cases, we will use
78 mph =
114.4 ft/sec  and 70 mph = 102.7 ft /sec.

Plugging in    Drag (78) =
0.5 * 0.0023718 * 114.4 * 114.4 * 17.9 * 0.45
=  125.02 lbs

                 
Drag (70) = 0.5 * 0.0023718 * 102.7 * 102.7 * 17.9 *
0.45 =  100.8 lbs
HP(78)  = Drag (78) * 114.4 / 550 =  26.004 hp

HP(78)  = Drag (70) * 102.7 /
550 = 18.8 hp

As mentioed, mechanical losses and rolling resistance adds to
the power
required.  As can bee seen, the power difference is significant. And
that power requires fuel in direct proportion. It all points to the old
adage
of  "Speed costs, how fast do you want to go?"  The best fuel
mileage can be
had by simply going slower. In this case a drop from 78
mph to 70 will
increase your mileage quite a bit. But, it also depends
on the other two
facors as well.  If you have happy feet then it is
going to get worse mileage,
happy feet being the ones that are
constantly twiddling with the gas pedal:
everytime you do that, it pumps
raw fuel into the carb through the accelerator
pump.

So, my suggestions?
First, slow down

Second, get larger skinnier tires
as fat ones have a lot more rolling
resistance. In fact maybe some old bias
belted tires that can be pumped
up hard. High tire pressures reduce rolling
resistance in those tires.
Also get skinnier tires on the front and keep them
pumped up.

Third, get an AFR meter, not even a fancy wideband. Just one of
those
that have led lights and show rich or lean. Then tune the car for as
lean or as close to stoic as you can. Then drive it with the AFR meter
lean
side led lit.

Fourth, maybe get a old timey vacuum meter and put it on the
dash as
well. A high vacuum means best economy.

Fifth, keep it tuned. Get an
electronic dizzy or innerds like Pertronic.

I hope this may help. But, as in
all things, your milage may vary..

mayf
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From Carmods at aol.com  Mon Jul  5 09:50:48 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 11:50:48 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required
Message-ID: <6f160.1f3865c8.39635958@aol.com>

This  is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago.  
A  spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly 
overheats  as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably caused 
by  the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes  
negative. 
For  some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in 
lower hoses,  probably some low cost un-American supplier. I  found that a  
"Rainbird/Toro"  impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works  
great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it  tight. You can buy a 
sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just  to find a stainless 
spring.  
John  Logan

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Mon Jul  5 12:33:42 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 11:33:42 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
References: <48F719DC1DFA47A7AEA9D3C442AF4D57@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <7FE50328CCF046CE980BF2BF081F7CDD@student2>

The other side is that at speed the circumference of the tire can possibly 
grow from centrifugal force. A grossly exaggerated example are the rear 
slicks on a Top Fuel dragster.  So, the static measurement might just be the 
best "averaged" measurement.

Interestingly in Fred Phun's book "How to make your car handle" (page 119 - 
at the bottom) it states that manufactures allow up to 7% variations 
regarding tire dimensions for a given size (Tire & Rim Association, Inc.). 
That 7% is equal to 2:88 gears becoming right about 3.07 gears if you are 
changing tires from both extremes of that 7% limit.

  By the way, I always thought the 7% factor would be a good argument to get 
out of a mildly over the limit speeding ticket.  :-)

Tom (Witt)

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  5 13:14:55 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 12:14:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required
In-Reply-To: <6f160.1f3865c8.39635958@aol.com>
Message-ID: <665181.71406.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

GOOD post John and very true to members to new to know that spring saves your
butt at given times and the stainless spring should out last the owner I'm
many cases- unfortunately for all us older gentleman.
Cheers
TonytheTiger

-


, July 5, 2010, 10:50 AM

This  is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago. 
A  spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly
overheats  as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably
caused
by  the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes 
negative.
For  some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in
lower hoses,  probably some low cost un-American supplier. I  found that a 
"Rainbird/Toro"  impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works 
great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it  tight. You can buy a
sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just  to find a stainless
spring. 
John  Logan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Jul  5 14:04:29 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 16:04:29 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Gas milage with different tires?
Message-ID: <771db.59a97456.396394cd@aol.com>

Around here the speed courts do just that if you bring  it up.  They allow 
a 5% variance in the amount the radar reads or officer  states. That 
sometimes can make a huge difference in the fine or the points on  your license.
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/5/2010 3:45:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
atwittsend at verizon.net writes:

The  other side is that at speed the circumference of the tire can possibly 
 
grow from centrifugal force. A grossly exaggerated example are the rear  
slicks on a Top Fuel dragster.  So, the static measurement might just  be 
the 
best "averaged" measurement.

Interestingly in Fred Phun's  book "How to make your car handle" (page 119 
- 
at the bottom) it states  that manufactures allow up to 7% variations 
regarding tire dimensions for  a given size (Tire & Rim Association, Inc.). 
That 7% is equal to 2:88  gears becoming right about 3.07 gears if you are 
changing tires from both  extremes of that 7% limit.

By the way, I always thought the 7%  factor would be a good argument to get 
out of a mildly over the limit  speeding ticket.  :-)

Tom  (Witt)
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From allanballard at att.net  Mon Jul  5 17:09:53 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 19:09:53 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Carburetor(s) for the Tiger
In-Reply-To: <282474794.1395322.1277136302771.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <282474794.1395322.1277136302771.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <B845A767-AF47-4E36-BB75-0CDA143453BD@att.net>

Well the WORST carb may be a remanufactured holley 2 bbl -- mine has left me
stranded in downtown Atlanta, waiting on a tow...



On Jun 21, 2010, at 12:05 PM, mcdangerous at verizon.net wrote:

>
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Jul  5 20:53:23 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon,  5 Jul 2010 20:53:23 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Tigers] ATT Troubles
Message-ID: <20100706025323.9ACCA2E0EF@bradakis.com>

Those of you who have email that gets routed in various ways through
AT&T, like att.net, sbcglobal.net, pacbell, etc. Have most likely not
seen any Team.Net email for a few days.

For some reason AT&T was blocking Team.Net.  I have no idea why, what
started it, and you folks don't pay me enough to waste a day on the
phone sifting through an endless stream of clueless "tech support"
drones to find out why.

I have gotten the block removed and am in the process of getting
the effected addresses back into normal operation.  Thank you for
your patience.

mjb.

From RSSmithIQ at cs.com  Tue Jul  6 05:02:18 2010
From: RSSmithIQ at cs.com (Randy Smith)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:02:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
Message-ID: <4C330D3A.6080101@cs.com>

Anybody have a part number (possibly Napa or the like) or a typical 
source application for a GM one-wire alternator so I don't drive my 
parts guy nuts looking for one?

Thanks-  Randy
-- 

Randy Smith
INNER QUEST, Inc.
34752 Charles Town Pike
Purcellville, VA  20132
703-478-1078
540-668-6699
540-668-6253 fax

InnerQuestOnline.com <http://www.innerquestonline.com/>
RSSmithIQ at cs.com
Tiger- B382000189

From dave at munroe.ca  Tue Jul  6 08:55:25 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:55:25 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <4C330D3A.6080101@cs.com>
References: <4C330D3A.6080101@cs.com>
Message-ID: <EA28D182FA2141AB8C267D65EC540D9B@DavePC>

Randy:

I have a Delco Remy 1102480 on my Tiger. Nice little unit, very common, 
rated as a "high output", but I couldn't find any specs to compare it to a 
non "high output" unit.

Works well for me.

Dave



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Smith" <RSSmithIQ at cs.com>
To: "Tiger List Serve" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 8:02 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question


> Anybody have a part number (possibly Napa or the like) or a typical
> source application for a GM one-wire alternator so I don't drive my
> parts guy nuts looking for one?
>
> Thanks-  Randy
> -- 
>
> Randy Smith
> INNER QUEST, Inc.
> 34752 Charles Town Pike
> Purcellville, VA  20132
> 703-478-1078
> 540-668-6699
> 540-668-6253 fax
>
> InnerQuestOnline.com <http://www.innerquestonline.com/>
> RSSmithIQ at cs.com
> Tiger- B382000189
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca

From dave at munroe.ca  Tue Jul  6 08:59:26 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:59:26 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question
In-Reply-To: <4C330D3A.6080101@cs.com>
References: <4C330D3A.6080101@cs.com>
Message-ID: <AC1DB82744214D26A960E97B02893813@DavePC>

Randy:

I found this:
1975 Corvette Delco-Remy  Alternators

      Generator Amp Rating Application
      1100544 61 Early with C60 Air Conditioning
      1100597 61 Early with  UA1 Heavy-Duty Battery
      1100950 42 L48 & Early L82
      1102394 37 2nd Production L48 (unverified)
      1102474 61 2nd Production with C60 Air Conditioning
                             1102480     ( THIS ONE ) 61 2nd Production with 
UA1 Heavy-Duty Battery
      1102483 37 Early L48 (unverified)
      1102484 42 2nd Production L82


HTH,

Dave





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randy Smith" <RSSmithIQ at cs.com>
To: "Tiger List Serve" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 8:02 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Alternator Question


> Anybody have a part number (possibly Napa or the like) or a typical
> source application for a GM one-wire alternator so I don't drive my
> parts guy nuts looking for one?
>
> Thanks-  Randy
> -- 
>
> Randy Smith
> INNER QUEST, Inc.
> 34752 Charles Town Pike
> Purcellville, VA  20132
> 703-478-1078
> 540-668-6699
> 540-668-6253 fax
>
> InnerQuestOnline.com <http://www.innerquestonline.com/>
> RSSmithIQ at cs.com
> Tiger- B382000189
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 09:25:52 2010
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 16:25:52 +0100
Subject: [Tigers] Best Carburetor(s) for the Tiger
In-Reply-To: <bdf0f.215df76d.39514df1@aol.com>
References: <bdf0f.215df76d.39514df1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinxb2FYtYrvf9uHpQtOJTCFIC0Q6UbZSr2KhbN-@mail.gmail.com>

last november we cruised through all of france and spain at 100-110mph all
the way with a 3.07 and toploader.   we got about 16 imperial mpg (~13
m/USg) and spent about $6000 on fuel for the whole morocco rally.  my rev
limiter kicks in at about 128mph in 4th i think.

i had to do an oil change when we arrived in malaga as without an oil
cooler, the oil was running at 300F all the way.  in fact it was the oil
temp that governed the speed we cruised at.

in the uk i tend to sit at about 90mph if there's not much traffic, which is
pretty comfortable.  i know you guys tend to drive slower in the states but
even there it depends on where you are.

last year, my trip from downtown chicago to SUNI was just over 900 miles and
we averaged 97mph all the way including 4 or 5 stops for gas off the highway
and with my wife sleeping in the passenger seat.   no tickets - even in
wisconsin.  of course that wasn't in a tiger ....
those big empty roads through Minnesota and s. Dakota need to be driven at
about 140 to keep you awake....   unless its dark when over 130, the
headlights don't reach far enough to see properly :)


On Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 12:21 AM, <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:

> Hey, how fast do you guys drive:-)  Someone wrote  and talked about 3,800
> rpm at 78 mph.  Do you really have  place where  you can cruise at 78?  If
> so, I can see why the mileage  suffers.
> Mark
>
>
> In a message dated 6/21/2010 7:17:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> tkparker1941 at gmail.com writes:
>
> Ron,
>
> I'm certainly not doubting you, and you've given me  something to shoot
> for.
> Thanks!
>
> Tom
>
> On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at  3:58 PM, Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
>  wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > BTW, when the Tiger ran I'd have been proud  to get 18 - 20 MPG at
> highway
> > speeds. I think 28 MPG is a tad high  with a 4 speed, improbable even
> with a
> > carbureted engine and a 5  speed, but probable with a 5 speed, fuel
> injection
> > and an engine  management system.
> >
> >
> >
> > I easily get 25 MPG and my  friends MK II with 600 cfm, 4 bbl gets about
> 22
> > MPG.   I  once saw 29 MPG but only once.   I'm pushing the ignition and
> carb
> > tune on my 260 to the max and I hope to cross the 30 MPG  mark.   If I do
> > cross 30 MPG constantly I will report back  on that.
> >
> > Ron Fraser
> >
> > 260, 2 bbl,  4sp
> _______________________________________________
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From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Tue Jul  6 11:27:39 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 12:27:39 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] testing
Message-ID: <1845315896.289291.1278437259536.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net>


From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  6 12:32:27 2010
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:32:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] speeding
Message-ID: <771551.53581.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

owaing,
     please anounce when and where you will be driving..I will be about three
states away..going the other way..thank you
zym..<g>
    

The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  6 13:22:10 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 12:22:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator
Message-ID: <764379.20379.qm@web53601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right
application for the tiger?  thks
 
ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin"
 
 

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Tue Jul  6 17:45:44 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 19:45:44 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator
In-Reply-To: <764379.20379.qm@web53601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C8593868.3B29%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

I have mine out of my car.  I think it still has a label on it.  Stand by
and I'll check.  Cheers.


On 7/6/10 3:22 PM, "Peter L" <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right
> application for the tiger?  thks
>  
> ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin"
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From jteepen at usatoday.com  Tue Jul  6 19:04:15 2010
From: jteepen at usatoday.com (Teepen, Jere)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:04:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator
In-Reply-To: <764379.20379.qm@web53601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <764379.20379.qm@web53601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155442E0D41E1@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>

Contact Doug Jennings at the Tiger/Alpine Clubhouse, 937-252-3317.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Peter L
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 12:22 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator

does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right
application for the tiger?  thks

ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin"

From jteepen at usatoday.com  Tue Jul  6 19:05:59 2010
From: jteepen at usatoday.com (Teepen, Jere)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:05:59 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required
In-Reply-To: <6f160.1f3865c8.39635958@aol.com>
References: <6f160.1f3865c8.39635958@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155442E0D41E2@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>

A less expensive alternative is to buy a universal fit spiral hose in the same
length as the lower hose and remove the spring from it, then wind into the new
lower hose.  Done.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Carmods at aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 8:51 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required

This  is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago.
A  spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly
overheats  as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably
caused
by  the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes
negative.
For  some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in
lower hoses,  probably some low cost un-American supplier. I  found that a
"Rainbird/Toro"  impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works
great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it  tight. You can buy a
sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just  to find a stainless
spring.
John  Logan

From CoolVT at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 19:25:00 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:25:00 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Horn Ring Repair
Message-ID: <4d70.246e5aff.3965316c@aol.com>

Has anyone successfully repaired a broken horn ring?  Mine separated where 
the spoke joins the hub.  I've tried epoxy, but  it didn't hold. I thought I 
cleaned the metal well.  Any other  suggestions?
Mark L

From bamcnulty at optonline.net  Tue Jul  6 19:25:38 2010
From: bamcnulty at optonline.net (Tony McNulty)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 21:25:38 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator
References: <764379.20379.qm@web53601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <861F024FF4934FE08F1EB34BD2E28453@your4dacd0ea75>

Try this ....

http://www.griffinrad.com/





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter L" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:22 PM
Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator


> does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right
> application for the tiger?  thks
>
> ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin"
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bamcnulty at optonline.net

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Tue Jul  6 19:27:15 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 21:27:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] griffin radiator
In-Reply-To: <764379.20379.qm@web53601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C8595033.3B31%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

OK.  My Griffin radiator has two stickers on it.  One is a green and white
inspection sticker.  The other is a white rectangular label with a bar code
and two numbers, one above and one below.  The top number  has one character
(the second character) that is partially marred.  It looks like 9R-07671-01.
The "R" may be wrong, but I really do think it is an "R".  The bottom number
is 00110021.  I hope that helps!


On 7/6/10 3:22 PM, "Peter L" <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> does anyone have the model number for the griffin radiator thats the right
> application for the tiger?  thks
>  
> ps - tried searching on TU, no hit for "griffin"
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From AAAGLASSS at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 19:31:21 2010
From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:31:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
Message-ID: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>

Tiger on E-bay, 120592209199  Has dual reservoir master cylinder. Any  one 
have info on this? 

From CoolVT at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 20:10:06 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 22:10:06 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Horn Ring Repair
Message-ID: <789e.20933751.39653bfe@aol.com>

If you know someone who works on sprinklers either as  a business or as 
maintenance at a condo project or such, ask them to save the  springs when they 
replace the sprinkler heads.  I have a few from just  replacing the heads 
around my house over the years.
M
 
 
In a message dated 7/6/2010 10:03:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
CoolVT at aol.com writes:

Has  anyone successfully repaired a broken horn ring?  Mine separated where 
 
the spoke joins the hub.  I've tried epoxy, but  it didn't hold.  I thought 
I 
cleaned the metal well.  Any other   suggestions?
Mark  L
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 21:07:11 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 13:07:11 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Horn Ring Repair
In-Reply-To: <4d70.246e5aff.3965316c@aol.com>
References: <4d70.246e5aff.3965316c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilvHKWhMNtaI_CS18iqOaVSPm6lUwAMxgjfDPDT@mail.gmail.com>

The original design is flawed, people have strenghtened them with solder on
the backs IIRC.. but the best bet is to get a repro from Rick, they are
meant to be stronger.

Another thing that leads to them breaking is that they are not adjusted
right and require to much prerssure to activate, hence the breakage.

On 7 July 2010 11:25, <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:

> Has anyone successfully repaired a broken horn ring?  Mine separated where
> the spoke joins the hub.  I've tried epoxy, but  it didn't hold. I thought
> I
> cleaned the metal well.  Any other  suggestions?
> Mark L
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 21:51:42 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 23:51:42 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>
References: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikW0e8q09SMjcgTp32Xrghf_RyZEfAV8NfhhmA8@mail.gmail.com>

Tim Suddard used one from a Subaru (if memory serves) on his Tiger in
Classic Motorsports.

Tom

On Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 9:31 PM, <AAAGLASSS at aol.com> wrote:

> Tiger on E-bay, 120592209199  Has dual reservoir master cylinder. Any  one
> have info on this?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net  Tue Jul  6 22:07:24 2010
From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 21:07:24 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] TU Long Beach 2011
Message-ID: <1E86E7CFDB7C4464A0392306249E3836@your4dacd0ea75>

As many of you already know, the 2011 TU will be held in Long Beach,
California, June 16-19th.

The Queen Mary will be the host hotel and reservations are now being taken for
the limited number of rooms at our special rate ($125/night).

For details, please contact me off list.

thanks,

Buck Trippel

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 05:36:32 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 07:36:32 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C859DF00.3B40%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

I'd also be interested in knowing of a dual master cylinder that would work
to separate the front from the rear braking circuit.  I heard a Volvo unit
might work.  Subaru too?  Cool.  Has anyone done this?  Any tips on how to
best do it?  Thanks!


On 7/6/10 9:31 PM, "AAAGLASSS at aol.com" <AAAGLASSS at aol.com> wrote:

> Tiger on E-bay, 120592209199  Has dual reservoir master cylinder. Any  one
> have info on this?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From fordlandia at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  7 05:55:24 2010
From: fordlandia at sbcglobal.net (Bill Waite)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 04:55:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Test
Message-ID: <410755.63606.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Still not receiving messages from the Tiger List.  Got bounced off the list
somehow and have tried everything to get resubscribed.  Posting this message
to 
see if i get it back from the List server.

From Parlanti at comcast.net  Wed Jul  7 06:38:26 2010
From: Parlanti at comcast.net (Joe Parlanti)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 08:38:26 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <C859DF00.3B40%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>
	<C859DF00.3B40%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <01ce01cb1dd1$52957cd0$f7c07670$@net>

I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can
be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
off of the part if no one else has it.

Joe Parlanti
B382000026


Snip...

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Wed Jul  7 07:30:24 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 23:30:24 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <01ce01cb1dd1$52957cd0$f7c07670$@net>
References: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>
	<C859DF00.3B40%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<01ce01cb1dd1$52957cd0$f7c07670$@net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimRIoQDLis6KRp6jaOm-2zhm0bgjaFgY0u5OVMO@mail.gmail.com>

Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know there
is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was
someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used.

On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti <Parlanti at comcast.net> wrote:

> I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can
> be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
> off of the part if no one else has it.
>
> Joe Parlanti
> B382000026
>
>
> Snip...
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From Parlanti at comcast.net  Wed Jul  7 07:34:13 2010
From: Parlanti at comcast.net (Joe Parlanti)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:34:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimRIoQDLis6KRp6jaOm-2zhm0bgjaFgY0u5OVMO@mail.gmail.com>
References: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>
	<C859DF00.3B40%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<01ce01cb1dd1$52957cd0$f7c07670$@net>
	<AANLkTimRIoQDLis6KRp6jaOm-2zhm0bgjaFgY0u5OVMO@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01e601cb1dd9$1f2c0b40$5d8421c0$@net>

I know Larry Paulick is running a Wilwood system on his car.
 
Joseph V. Parlanti
16048 Copen Meadow Dr
North Potomac, Md. 20878
Cell - 301-461-0626
Email - Parlanti at comcast.net
 
From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 9:30 AM
To: Joe Parlanti
Cc: Would U. Believe; AAAGLASSS at aol.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
 
Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know there
is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was
someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used.
On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti <Parlanti at comcast.net> wrote:
I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can
be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
off of the part if no one else has it.

Joe Parlanti
B382000026


Snip...
_______________________________________________

From fordlandia at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  7 07:51:32 2010
From: fordlandia at sbcglobal.net (Bill Waite)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:51:32 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Test
References: <410755.63606.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B020E9EB98094416B24A857E1203DD7F@BLUEOVAL>

Back on.  I had not received the message that Mark Bradakis sent our 
regarding ATT & sbcglobal (Mark Rense sent me a copy).  AT&T screwed up. 
Thanks Mark B for your efforts fixing the problem.

---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Waite" <fordlandia at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Tiger Talk List Tiger" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 7:55 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Test


> Still not receiving messages from the Tiger List.  Got bounced off the 
> list
> somehow and have tried everything to get resubscribed.  Posting this 
> message
> to
> see if i get it back from the List server.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fordlandia at sbcglobal.net

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 08:15:24 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 09:15:24 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
Message-ID: <628046157.148804.1278512124972.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>

A part number would be great!  I'm sure there is more than one would work -- Volvo, Datsun, Wilwood, etc.  I'd also love to have instructions on, or pictures of, how and where the circuits are separated.  Since m engine bay is empty, now would be a good time for me to do this!  Cool beans.  Thanks.

Jul 7, 2010 07:38:30 AM, Parlanti at comcast.net wrote:

I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can
be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
off of the part if no one else has it.

Joe Parlanti
B382000026


Snip...

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  7 08:34:42 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 07:34:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
Message-ID: <160564.14283.qm@web53603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

i think ive decided to replace my rusty exhaust with a stainless set up from
sunbeam spec, incl the stainless downpipes (i am using stock cast iron exhaust
manifolds).  i just realized in talking with SS that the package includes the
muffler.  question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster
40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound of
the muffler sold as part of SS kit?  rick said it is "sports car like" but
everyone has their own interpretation.  thks.

From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 08:40:42 2010
From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 07:40:42 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
References: <17240.62d1b515.396532e9@aol.com>
	<C859DF00.3B40%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<01ce01cb1dd1$52957cd0$f7c07670$@net>
	<AANLkTimRIoQDLis6KRp6jaOm-2zhm0bgjaFgY0u5OVMO@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DA340746B54347CF85612A940D29505B@your4dacd0ea75>

Michael,

I'm not aware of the Datsun pickup application but probably the most popular 
dual circuit MC for a Tiger is the one off the Mazda B3000 pickup truck. 
This truck was also sold in the US as a Ford Courier. It works great with a 
stock Tiger. However if you've changed to much larger calipers then 
something larger like the Subaru or Datsun may be needed. However the longer 
the MC, the harder it is to fit into the allowable space.

Buck Trippel

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
To: "Joe Parlanti" <Parlanti at comcast.net>
Cc: <AAAGLASSS at aol.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 6:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question


> Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know 
> there
> is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was
> someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used.
>
> On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti <Parlanti at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits 
>> can
>> be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
>> off of the part if no one else has it.
>>
>> Joe Parlanti
>> B382000026
>>
>>
>> Snip...
>>  _______________________________________________

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Jul  7 09:27:54 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 10:27:54 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Master_Cylinder_Question?=
Message-ID: <20100707152648.1D9A218763E@autox.team.net>

Is there a step by step so as to expedite installation?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Joe Parlanti" <Parlanti at comcast.net>
Date: Wed, Jul 7, 2010 08:34
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
To: "'michael king'" <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
Cc: <AAAGLASSS at aol.com>, <tigers at autox.team.net>


I know Larry Paulick is running a Wilwood system on his car.
 
Joseph V. Parlanti
16048 Copen Meadow Dr
North Potomac, Md. 20878
Cell - 301-461-0626
Email - Parlanti at comcast.net
 
From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 9:30 AM
To: Joe Parlanti
Cc: Would U. Believe; AAAGLASSS at aol.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
 
Its the 260Z datsun one isnt it? IIRC Dale used to sell them.. i know there
is a datsun pickup one that can be used and the subaru.. then there was
someone who had worked out a wilwood that could be used.
On 7 July 2010 22:38, Joe Parlanti <Parlanti at comcast.net> wrote:
I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can
be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
off of the part if no one else has it.

Joe Parlanti
B382000026


Snip...
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tigerdan at cavtel.net  Wed Jul  7 10:21:26 2010
From: tigerdan at cavtel.net (Dan Fitzgerald)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 12:21:26 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
Message-ID: <616A1248-2298-45BE-92E9-5F4F5D43A393@cavtel.net>

List,

It has come time for me to sell my Tiger.  It has been a great ride and a lot
of fun to restore.  But, now looking into other activities.

I will be posting to EBay this week with photo's of the car, and will send the
item number to the list.

Dan Fitzgerald
B9470033FE

From jim at island.net  Wed Jul  7 10:28:22 2010
From: jim at island.net (Jim)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 09:28:22 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <628046157.148804.1278512124972.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <628046157.148804.1278512124972.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <415E4FB6D82D494CB675C44D265C16E0@JIMPC>

I'm running a little larger bore than most. I consulted with Dale A. and a
few others before putting it in. It's a 1979 Datsun 280ZX tandem master.
I've uploaded some pics of the installation on Flickr showing the line
routing etc. ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51418115 at N07/sets/

I'm liking the format there so may upload some of my other projects in the
future...

Jim
B382000446

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mcdangerous at verizon.net
Sent: July 7, 2010 7:15 AM
To: Parlanti at comcast.net
Cc: AAAGLASSS at aol.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question

A part number would be great!  I'm sure there is more than one would work --
Volvo, Datsun, Wilwood, etc.  I'd also love to have instructions on, or
pictures of, how and where the circuits are separated.  Since m engine bay
is empty, now would be a good time for me to do this!  Cool beans.  Thanks.

Jul 7, 2010 07:38:30 AM, Parlanti at comcast.net wrote:

I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can
be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
off of the part if no one else has it.

Joe Parlanti
B382000026


Snip...
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From tigerdan at cavtel.net  Wed Jul  7 11:03:03 2010
From: tigerdan at cavtel.net (Dan Fitzgerald)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 13:03:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] FW: Mk 1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <616A1248-2298-45BE-92E9-5F4F5D43A393@cavtel.net>
Message-ID: <C85A2B87.54F8%TigerDan@cavtel.net>

All,

It has come time for me to sell my Tiger.  It has been a great ride and a
lot of fun to restore.  But, now looking into other activities with the
family.

I will be posting to EBay this week with photo's of the car, and will send
the item number to the list.

Dan Fitzgerald 
B9470033FE

From Carmods at aol.com  Wed Jul  7 11:32:26 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 13:32:26 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
Message-ID: <cb7a4.4e2ad68a.3966142a@aol.com>

Do any of you know what the cylinder diameters are  on the Subaru,  Volvo, 
and and other dual master cylinders? 
 
John Logan

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 11:33:39 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 12:33:39 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required
Message-ID: <1450277794.157806.1278524019865.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>

That's a good idea, but I would like to let anyone who's working on his or her cooling system like I am that I've located the actual, correct, stainless steel spring for the lower radiator hose of the SBF for only  $5.36.  By going this way, you can get a correct-looking radiator hose with the necessary and purpose-made spring inside.  This one is stainless steel too, which is really important in this case.  Here's the link for the part:

http://sitesearch.cjponyparts.com/search?keywords=HW769+&search_btn=+

I hope this is helpful!


Jul 5, 2010 11:31:47 AM, Carmods at aol.com wrote:

This  is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago.  
A  spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly 
overheats  as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably caused 
by  the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes  
negative. 
For  some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in 
lower hoses,  probably some low cost un-American supplier. I  found that a  
"Rainbird/Toro"  impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works  
great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it  tight. You can buy a 
sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just  to find a stainless 
spring.  
John  Logan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From maliburevue at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  7 11:57:39 2010
From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 10:57:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
In-Reply-To: <415E4FB6D82D494CB675C44D265C16E0@JIMPC>
Message-ID: <879308.79396.qm@web33202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim,
 
With the dual master in the way how do you change the left rear plug? Through
the firewall or can you get it from the top?
 
Gary

--- On Wed, 7/7/10, Jim <jim at island.net> wrote:


From: Jim <jim at island.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
To: mcdangerous at verizon.net, Parlanti at comcast.net
Cc: AAAGLASSS at aol.com, tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, July 7, 2010, 9:28 AM


I'm running a little larger bore than most. I consulted with Dale A. and a
few others before putting it in. It's a 1979 Datsun 280ZX tandem master.
I've uploaded some pics of the installation on Flickr showing the line
routing etc. ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51418115 at N07/sets/

I'm liking the format there so may upload some of my other projects in the
future...

Jim
B382000446

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of mcdangerous at verizon.net
Sent: July 7, 2010 7:15 AM
To: Parlanti at comcast.net
Cc: AAAGLASSS at aol.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question

A part number would be great!  I'm sure there is more than one would work --
Volvo, Datsun, Wilwood, etc.  I'd also love to have instructions on, or
pictures of, how and where the circuits are separated.  Since m engine bay
is empty, now would be a good time for me to do this!  Cool beans.  Thanks.

Jul 7, 2010 07:38:30 AM, Parlanti at comcast.net wrote:

I'm running one from a late '70s Datsun Z. The front and rear circuits can
be separated, or joined through a proportioning valve. I can get a number
off of the part if no one else has it.

Joe Parlanti
B382000026


Snip...
_______________________________________________
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From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul  7 12:53:49 2010
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 14:53:49 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Exhaust
Message-ID: <4C34CD3D.50908@roadrunner.com>

I have a stainless system on my Tiger which was put on about eight years 
ago.  I don't believe it came from SS - my recollection is VB (I could 
be wrong on this).  In my judgment it is loud, unlike the original 
system, which I liked.  I went so far as to add an extra resonator to 
each side in an effort to reduce the volume, without too much success.  
As time has passed, I have grown to accept it, but I would still like a 
little more basso profundo in keeping with a V8.  I don't know how many 
suppliers of stainless exhaust systems there are for Tigers so ymmv.  If 
I had to do it again (and the idea with stainless was to not have to) I 
would go a different route.  I think I have seen some good diy's on TU 
about this.

Cheers,

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

Remember to register online for Sunbeams United XXIX in Maine, October 8 
- 10.  Go to http://teae.org for more information.

From Robin02 at mindspring.com  Wed Jul  7 14:13:17 2010
From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 16:13:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
In-Reply-To: <160564.14283.qm@web53603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E1OWazp-0007uK-4H@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Peter Wrote:

question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster
40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound
of
the muffler 

Peter,

I have used the Series 40 and it does produce a great sound but, Flowmaster
also makes a stainless Tri-delta that fits well and is quieter at idle, but
roars when the throttle is opened. Just a comment. RObin

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 15:55:11 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 17:55:11 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required
In-Reply-To: <6f160.1f3865c8.39635958@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C85A6FFF.3B61%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

... I think the very best alternative is to buy a purpose-made stainless
steel lower radiator hose spring for SBF for all of $5.36. The cost is
minimal and, in this way, you can have a correct-looking lower radiator hose
with the protection and corrosion resistance of a stainless steel part.  I
thought I should share this with anyone who is working on their cooling
systems like I am.  Here's the link:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=HW769&utm_source=google&utm_medium
=merchant&utm_campaign=shopping

I hope this is helpful!


On 7/5/10 11:50 AM, "Carmods at aol.com" <Carmods at aol.com> wrote:

> This  is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago.
> A  spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly
> overheats  as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably
> caused 
> by  the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes
> negative. 
> For  some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in
> lower hoses,  probably some low cost un-American supplier. I  found that a
> "Rainbird/Toro"  impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works
> great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it  tight. You can buy a
> sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just  to find a stainless
> spring.  
> John  Logan
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Wed Jul  7 16:31:56 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 17:31:56 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
In-Reply-To: <E1OWazp-0007uK-4H@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <E1OWazp-0007uK-4H@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <7B63C1C39F1E40898B14B55B2D0015B7@OwnerPC>

I have used the Flowmaster 40 series with the Deltaflow technology for many 
years and really like the sound of it.  You might try that.  It's not quite 
as loud as the standard Deltaflow.  Jerry Christopherson 373408
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robin Young" <Robin02 at mindspring.com>
To: "'Peter L'" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up


> Peter Wrote:
>
> question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster
> 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound
> of
> the muffler
>
> Peter,
>
> I have used the Series 40 and it does produce a great sound but, 
> Flowmaster
> also makes a stainless Tri-delta that fits well and is quieter at idle, 
> but
> roars when the throttle is opened. Just a comment. RObin
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  7 17:27:58 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 16:27:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Dual Master Cylinder
Message-ID: <150734.92567.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

For those near Dayton, contact John Engle, ex TEAE President.
His dual master
cylinder is incredibly nice.  Its really a dual
Girling master cylinder side
by side.  He made it all including
a dual circuit to work both master with the
one brake peddle.
You won't believe the workmanship. His car is nearly as
perfect as a personalized Tiger can be.

John how about some pictures?

Dave

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Jul  7 17:33:54 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 19:33:54 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
In-Reply-To: <7B63C1C39F1E40898B14B55B2D0015B7@OwnerPC>
References: <E1OWazp-0007uK-4H@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<7B63C1C39F1E40898B14B55B2D0015B7@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <D7673017-EC44-4820-8F97-7994E9E89A87@att.net>

Is that the muffler used on McQueen's Mustang in Bullit?

I'd sorta like to clone that sound, if it can be done with a stock Tiger.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMc2RdFuOxI

Allan

On Jul 7, 2010, at 6:31 PM, Jerry wrote:

> I have used the Flowmaster 40 series with the Deltaflow technology for many
years and really like the sound of it.  You might try that.  It's not quite as
loud as the standard Deltaflow.  Jerry Christopherson 373408
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Young" <Robin02 at mindspring.com>
> To: "'Peter L'" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 3:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
>
>
>> Peter Wrote:
>>
>> question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster
>> 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound
>> of
>> the muffler
>>
>> Peter,
>>
>> I have used the Series 40 and it does produce a great sound but,
Flowmaster
>> also makes a stainless Tri-delta that fits well and is quieter at idle,
but
>> roars when the throttle is opened. Just a comment. RObin
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 17:42:05 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 16:42:05 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Master Cylinder Question
References: <879308.79396.qm@web33202.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <555B3C401D7B49C18117753438707ADA@student2>

I have the Datsun master cylinder on my Tiger.  In my case it came off a 
mid-70's 610. The Datsun M/C comes in two general sizes.  I think for the 
Tiger (assuming your not running a booster) you would want the 3/4".  That 
is what I have. The other size I recall is 11/16".  This is what I find on 
almost all the Z cars.

A couple of notes on installation. First, people often recommend the early 
70's pick up truck M/C (3/4").  The reason is it did not have a booster (nor 
did the early 510's - 3/4" also). My M/C came off a boosted 610.  I had to 
modify an actuation rod because booster cars do not have a "captured" rod. 
In the end I got an adjustable rod off a non boosted Volvo 122 and ground 
the round tip to fit. The piston retainer at the end of the cylinder was too 
large from the Volvo.  I had to grind it to fit.

 The task is sort of like trying to grind a nickel down to the diameter of a 
penny.  I just let it slip/spin on the rod until to ground to fit. It wasn't 
pretty, but it works just fine.  Just get it small enough to fit the hole, 
but large enough for the retaining clip to hold. The adjustable aspect of 
the Volvo rod was a great benefit in the final assembly.

Additionally, the two mounting holes need to be files slightly to match the 
Tiger.

Lastly getting it plumbed in was a task.  I thought I could find and adapter 
that took the flared end of a Datsun metric brake line and connect it to the 
flared end of the Tiger brake line.  I looked FOREVER and never found 
anything.

Apparently there is an adapter that changes the fitting right at the M/C. I 
never found that either. Someone recommended a Dave Brean??? to have had the 
part.  In the end I'm just re-flaring my lines to a common standard using 
the Datsun metric line for a portion of the run.

If someone out there has a complete kit and you have the money I'd say just 
buy it. Otherwise if your a cheap-o like me you will struggle to gather and 
adapt all you need.
Tom 

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 17:50:39 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 16:50:39 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
References: <E1OWazp-0007uK-4H@elasmtp-scoter.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BDC43802E6BC471788032F32B002225A@student2>

I have a Flowmaster 50 series on my 318 Valiant. Even though the 3 chamber, 
50 series is suppose to be quieter (than the 40's) I still get a horrible 
resonance from about 1,900 RPM to exactly 2,600 RPM, then it drops right 
off.
 While it probably doesn't help that I'm running a single muffler with 3" 
pipe I still hate the noise being right in the typical driving band.
Others may have different experiences as there are a lot of factors that 
result in the final sound one hears.
Tom 

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Wed Jul  7 17:56:14 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 19:56:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
In-Reply-To: <160564.14283.qm@web53603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C85A8C5E.3B70%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

I have a new Sunbeam Specialties stainless system on my car.  To be honest,
I am not an expert on the sound of these engines, so it's hard to judge or
describe it.  I am used to sounds like sport mufflers on Porsches, Remus
sport systems on BMW M cars, etc.  Those get my blood flowing, so to speak.
I will tell you that I wish the Tiger had a more aggressive sound, which
absolutely does not mean louder or droning to me.  How can I describe the
sound of these mufflers?...  The car sounds pretty OK with the throttle wide
open, but it isn't at all a turn on to me when idling or running calmly.  I
have actually been considering the idea of replacing the mufflers with
something else to give it a more burbly, free-flowing sound.  Having said
all of that, there are no Tigers I've seen or heard on the road around me,
so maybe mine is as good as they should sound.  I can tell you that the
Cobra club meets up the street from me every Saturday and those cars sound
much cooler to me than my Tiger.  I hate to put down the Sunbeam Specialties
mufflers, but they honestly don't scratch my itch.  But you know what they
say about opinions...


On 7/7/10 10:34 AM, "Peter L" <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> i think ive decided to replace my rusty exhaust with a stainless set up from
> sunbeam spec, incl the stainless downpipes (i am using stock cast iron exhaust
> manifolds).  i just realized in talking with SS that the package includes the
> muffler.  question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a flowmaster
> 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound of
> the muffler sold as part of SS kit?  rick said it is "sports car like" but
> everyone has their own interpretation.  thks.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Wed Jul  7 18:23:28 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 17:23:28 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Get Hosed!
Message-ID: <4C351A80.7020206@socal.rr.com>

Get "Hosed"!
/
/Totally agree about the internal water hoses should internal springs, 
as original. Especially important on the inlet hose, due to pump suction 
collapsing the hose.  The you are "really hosed".

On the original request for the correct hoses means, I believe, for the 
Original Hose Clamps that were on the car when it left the factory.

I believe they were "double-wire" type, not worm drive, and CAD plated, 
not stainless.

Here are a few references:

Heater hoses, and such:
/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Two_spring_Hose_Clamps_-_small.jpg


/The original radiator hose clamps (I Think) ($ 2.05) can be seen on:
/
http://www.englishparts.com/products/CLAMP--RADIATOR-HOSE-WIRE-TYPE--1-38-TO-1-916-IN-HOSE/7275/326-430.html

/TBON (The Book of Norman) shows the water and oil cap vent hoses with 
the "wire-type", and heater as the simple plain clamp band.  He says 
(pp153):

   1.  "All 1/2" hoses were CAD plated English "band clamps.".
   2.  "All 5/8" hose clamps used CAD plated English "double wire
      clamps" at all but three locations."
   3.  "The water pump by-pass hose was clamped with CAD plated Ford
      screw clamps at both ends"
   4.  "The heater core return hose was clamped with a CAD plated Ford
      screw clamped with clamp at the elbow manifold fitting."
   5.  "Upper and lower radiator hoses were clamped with CAD plated
      English double wire clamps"


Now. are you SURE you want that 100 point concourse  medal?

-- 

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com

From tigermaniac at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  7 18:42:52 2010
From: tigermaniac at sbcglobal.net (John R. Engle)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 20:42:52 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Dual Master Cylinder
References: <150734.92567.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <14DB7D3360814DABAC599D3B638FCB42@John>

I think Dave has me confused with someone else's car.  I still have the 
original master cylinder. Perhaps Hugh Guyne's car with the dual master 
setup that was developed by Doug Jennings at Tiger Auto is what he is 
referring to?

John E
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David T Johnson" <djoh797014 at yahoo.com>
To: <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 7:27 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Dual Master Cylinder


> For those near Dayton, contact John Engle, ex TEAE President.
> His dual master
> cylinder is incredibly nice.  Its really a dual
> Girling master cylinder side
> by side.  He made it all including
> a dual circuit to work both master with the
> one brake peddle.
> You won't believe the workmanship. His car is nearly as
> perfect as a personalized Tiger can be.
>
> John how about some pictures?
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tigermaniac at sbcglobal.net

From CoolVT at aol.com  Wed Jul  7 19:38:23 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 21:38:23 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
Message-ID: <b160c.3d67ff82.3966860f@aol.com>

For about fifty bucks you should be able to pick up 2  el-cheapo glass 
paks....available in many pipe sizes and lengths.   I've been happy with mine 
for close to 20 years.  If you like a  little more crackling sound get the 
Cherry Bomb glass  paks.
Mark

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 12:39:17 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 11:39:17 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] A "different" Alger
Message-ID: <DEE0F9AC1B204A6C936C4C63A02D6EED@student2>

Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the 
ball?" :-)

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner/dalerearaxle.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner.htm&usg=__AQyI9COcb3mkCn23KPCJIxdG9Eo=&h=390&w=600&sz=29&hl=en&start=3&itbs=1&tbnid=xN7TcDiGiFCmeM:&tbnh=88&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dford%2B8%2522%2Brear%2Bend%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26tbs%3Disch:1

I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool. 
Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the 
looks.

Tom

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 12:43:19 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 11:43:19 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected
Message-ID: <5A20A7529EA74AE0AF4989CF79BA667A@student2>

Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the
ball?" :-)

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/WilfredPotter.htm

I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool.
Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the
looks.

Tom

From jteepen at usatoday.com  Thu Jul  8 13:35:40 2010
From: jteepen at usatoday.com (Teepen, Jere)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 15:35:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected
In-Reply-To: <5A20A7529EA74AE0AF4989CF79BA667A@student2>
References: <5A20A7529EA74AE0AF4989CF79BA667A@student2>
Message-ID: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155442E169FCD@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>

I recently saw (do not recall where) a "kit" that included all of the
necessary components to easily create a Ford small block powered MGB.  The kit
looked very comprehensive with new crossmember, etc..  How about a Sebring
MGB-GT clone with Ford power?  Yummy.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:43 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected

Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the
ball?" :-)

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/WilfredPotter.htm

I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool.
Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the
looks.

Tom

From arado7 at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul  8 14:47:05 2010
From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 13:47:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected
In-Reply-To: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155442E169FCD@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>
Message-ID: <750452.95949.qm@web82706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have a new to me two seat roadster.  a  V6 powered. Crossfire SRT6 in triple
black. cost less than building a Cobra kit.   Gary.   B9472283.   unmodified. 
--- On Thu, 7/8/10, Teepen, Jere <jteepen at usatoday.com> wrote:


From: Teepen, Jere <jteepen at usatoday.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected
To: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>, "tigers at autox.team.net"
<tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 8, 2010, 7:35 PM


I recently saw (do not recall where) a "kit" that included all of the
necessary components to easily create a Ford small block powered MGB.  The
kit
looked very comprehensive with new crossmember, etc..  How about a Sebring
MGB-GT clone with Ford power?  Yummy.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 11:43 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Opps, error - A "different" Alger - corrected

Could this be the oldest "Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the
ball?" :-)

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/WilfredPotter.htm

I'm not too fond of the stock version of this car, but this is pretty cool.
Neither am I fan of side pipes, but in this case they really help with the
looks.

Tom
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7 at sbcglobal.net

From gabbardalex at att.net  Thu Jul  8 16:29:48 2010
From: gabbardalex at att.net (Gabbard Gabbard)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 15:29:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger shifter handle
Message-ID: <156887.90346.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Looking for a toploader shifter handle. 
Alex Gabbard

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 18:55:16 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:55:16 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <750452.95949.qm@web82706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
Thanks!

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 19:24:42 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:24:42 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <750452.95949.qm@web82706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinUMViKkD70egaw81avH4sgW81ZW2ALr6RwwubI@mail.gmail.com>

The WSM recommends 10W-30 oil

On 9 July 2010 10:55, Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:

> I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
> to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
> Thanks!
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 19:29:15 2010
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:29:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <750452.95949.qm@web82706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilYCbYpl6PFJwgtANoeSA0mr5Pr4Fu7Db6GHCN7@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Guy .
   DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC TO BREAK IN A NEW ENGINE The rings won t seat and it
will puke oil out the exhast. I use Castrol GTX 10W40 or20W50 depending on
temp. Run it 100 miles then change oil and filter andrive at least 1000mi
before you change again You can start synthetic after 3000mi

On Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 8:55 PM, Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net>wrote:

> I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
> to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
> Thanks!
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 19:41:35 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 21:41:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinUMViKkD70egaw81avH4sgW81ZW2ALr6RwwubI@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C85BF68F.3BAB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Cool, thanks.


On 7/8/10 9:24 PM, "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com> wrote:

> The WSM recommends 10W-30 oil
>
> On 9 July 2010 10:55, Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:
>> I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
>> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
>> to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
>> Thanks!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com

From tcprager at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  8 19:42:55 2010
From: tcprager at hotmail.com (Thomas Prager)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 20:42:55 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <SNT111-DS1514CD809314647022AB8CBB50@phx.gbl>

I am running 20/50 dino, but now that I have 5,000 miles on the motor I am
considering switching to synthetic oil. Is there any reason to stick with
conventional oil?

tom
9472154
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Would U. Believe<mailto:mcdangerous at verizon.net>
  To: tigers at autox.team.net<mailto:tigers at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 7:55 PM
  Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?


  I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
  Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
  to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
  Thanks!
  _______________________________________________
  Tigers at autox.team.net<mailto:Tigers at autox.team.net>
  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<http://www.team.net/archive>
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<http://www.team.net/forums>
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tcprager at hotmail.com<http://auto
x.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tcprager at hotmail.com>

From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 19:46:08 2010
From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 18:46:08 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <29C1B095B5374673A29A566F8DBCD72C@BucksLaptop>

I use Joe Gibbs 15-50 Break-in oil for flat tappet cams. Pricey but cheaper 
than a new cam & lifters.

Buck Trippel

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous at verizon.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 5:55 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?


>I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
> to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
> Thanks!
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bucktrippel at verizon.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Thu Jul  8 20:01:24 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:01:24 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <7FC8DB0165BE4ED49FC3CA3EF6C57EE0@ronpc1>

	Have you already done a break in run on the engine?   I would use
10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high pressure
additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which does not
need the additives.  I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40 as regular oil.
Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure off hand which
ones.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?


I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
Thanks! _______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date: 07/08/10
18:36:00

From crbernardino at mac.com  Thu Jul  8 20:03:51 2010
From: crbernardino at mac.com (Rob Bernardino)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 22:03:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] (no subject)
Message-ID: <D00CF233-A76F-4421-A476-5C6A41A0D11A@mac.com>

C. Robert Bernardino MD FACS
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Director, Ophthalmic Plastics and Orbital Surgery
Residency Program Directort

Sent from my iPhone 4

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 20:26:52 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 22:26:52 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <7FC8DB0165BE4ED49FC3CA3EF6C57EE0@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <C85C012C.3BB5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

No.  The engine has not been started yet.  I plan to use a zinc break-in
additive with whatever oil I use.  It's very warm out here in the DC area,
so I was thinking of the heavier weight oil.  I guess the best bet is what
the WSM and you suggest (10W30).  Thanks.


On 7/8/10 10:01 PM, "Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com> wrote:

> Have you already done a break in run on the engine?   I would use
> 10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high pressure
> additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which does not
> need the additives.  I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40 as regular oil.
> Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure off hand which
> ones.
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
> 
> 
> I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
> to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
> Thanks! _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date: 07/08/10
> 18:36:00

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  8 20:31:43 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:31:43 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
References: <160564.14283.qm@web53603.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B7CA785CBEC2427D8067071EC2272FA3@PETERHOME>

thanks for all the feedback.  i ordered 2 sets of stainless exhaust systems 
from SS, will slap one on the unrestored "driver" and the other on the 
beauty queen coming out of restoration.  ill keep you posted on how i like 
the set up.  if my wife complains its still too loud, then it should be 
about perfect for me =)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter L" <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 10:34 AM
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up


>i think ive decided to replace my rusty exhaust with a stainless set up 
>from
> sunbeam spec, incl the stainless downpipes (i am using stock cast iron 
> exhaust
> manifolds).  i just realized in talking with SS that the package includes 
> the
> muffler.  question is, as i was previously thinking of going with a 
> flowmaster
> 40 or similar for a more aggressive sound, can anyone comment on the sound 
> of
> the muffler sold as part of SS kit?  rick said it is "sports car like" but
> everyone has their own interpretation.  thks. 

From tcprager at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  8 20:35:50 2010
From: tcprager at hotmail.com (Thomas Prager)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:35:50 -0500
Subject: [Tigers]  Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
Message-ID: <SNT111-DS109E63E8FD4FB228211B3ECBB50@phx.gbl>

I am running 20/50 dino, but now that I have 5,000 miles on the motor I am
considering switching to synthetic oil. Is there any reason to stick with
conventional oil?

tom
9472154

From stubrennan at comcast.net  Thu Jul  8 20:57:41 2010
From: stubrennan at comcast.net (Stu Brennan)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:57:41 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
In-Reply-To: <b160c.3d67ff82.3966860f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb1f12$81e03ce0$6601a8c0@Brennan>

Let me guess, Mark, you were a percussonist?  Jack hammer operator?
Aircraft carrier flight deck guy?  

I had glass packs on my Tiger when I got it, and they were #1 on the
list for replacement.  Just way too loud.  Swapped them out for a pair
of big block Thunderbird resonators, that were a lot quieter.  Finally
got back to stock, quieter still.

Stu

From gripdad at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 21:02:24 2010
From: gripdad at gmail.com (William Manning)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 20:02:24 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <C85C012C.3BB5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <7FC8DB0165BE4ED49FC3CA3EF6C57EE0@ronpc1>
	<C85C012C.3BB5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimc2HE2Z4FazfdiBU0-JbpPZLTDJj8pWSVbECmq@mail.gmail.com>

Shell Rotella 15W40 is what I use for my flat tappet 289.

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 21:22:01 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 20:22:01 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
References: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<29C1B095B5374673A29A566F8DBCD72C@BucksLaptop>
Message-ID: <BCCD9B9E538D4E3BAD25FDFAFB9DC16F@student2>

Rotella WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear that 
is not the case anymore, but can't confirm.

  I used that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in 
recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I can 
say is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I think Chinese) 
still has lobes.

Tom 

From sganz at pacbell.net  Thu Jul  8 22:21:34 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 21:21:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <BCCD9B9E538D4E3BAD25FDFAFB9DC16F@student2>
References: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<29C1B095B5374673A29A566F8DBCD72C@BucksLaptop>
	<BCCD9B9E538D4E3BAD25FDFAFB9DC16F@student2>
Message-ID: <900160.44981.qm@web82802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I think if the Rotella has the NEW formual or something like that on the oil it 
is the newer blend. I have been using Rotella synthetic in my diesel as well as 
in the race car (as well as other diesel oils in the race car) with good 
results. Anything with new low emissions, etc is bad. Brad Penn, and others make 
oil loaded with additives that are good.

Sandy


----- Original Message ----
From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 8:22:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?

Rotella WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear that is 
not the case anymore, but can't confirm.

I used that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in 
recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I can say 
is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I think Chinese) still has 
lobes.

Tom _______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net

From awtiger at cox.net  Thu Jul  8 22:43:49 2010
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 23:43:49 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related)
In-Reply-To: <BCCD9B9E538D4E3BAD25FDFAFB9DC16F@student2>
References: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net><29C1B095B5374673A29A566F8DBCD72C@BucksLaptop>
	<BCCD9B9E538D4E3BAD25FDFAFB9DC16F@student2>
Message-ID: <8FFCC275541E4795B847CFDB05210A0D@awtigerPC>

Hey, guys:

Sorry to bomb the list with this question but you guys were the only ones I 
could think of to ask.

Does anyone out there in Tigerland have the snap-together flooring (a.k.a. 
"RaceDeck" or the like) in their garage/shop?  I'm considering installing it 
in my new shop but I've got some concerns.  I know that it supposedly holds 
up well with cars parked on it, but I wonder how well it does when you're 
doing actual work to a car on it.  Has anyone had experience with this?  Do 
jackstands tend to pierce the flooring?  How about jacks?  Can it be cleaned 
up easily or does it lose it's luster?  I know no one around the Oklahoma 
City area who has it so I'm flying kind of blind here.  Can anyone shed some 
light on this for me?

By the way, I painted the floor in my last shop with epoxy gray and it held 
up rather well.  I could do that again, although the prep for that would be 
a killer on the new shop.

Thanks so much,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
B9006857LRX 

From sganz at pacbell.net  Fri Jul  9 02:00:43 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 01:00:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related)
In-Reply-To: <8FFCC275541E4795B847CFDB05210A0D@awtigerPC>
References: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net><29C1B095B5374673A29A566F8DBCD72C@BucksLaptop>
	<BCCD9B9E538D4E3BAD25FDFAFB9DC16F@student2>
	<8FFCC275541E4795B847CFDB05210A0D@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <805489.32805.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Get some samples before you buy it, it's a few bucks. I was looking at it a
long 
while ago and when I got the samples I decided that it was not a good
way to go 
for me. I don't think they are super durable if you have a working
garage, and 
they sound hollow when you walk on them. I think they are ok if
you have a 
'waxer' type of garage but if you do lots of work I would skip
them IMO. The 
product that I did find really well made was from a company
called LokTile I 
think. It was solid plastic and came in bigger sized
squares. Was a bit more $$ 
as well, but would have been worth it had I put
down flooring. I ended up just 
keeping the cement floor. Once thing I always
wondered about was hardwood 
flooring, seen pricing for it at some of the
liquidator places for solid 
hardwood similar or less priced then the racedeck
stuff, not sure how it would 
hold up but for now it's cement.

Sandy



-----
Original Message ----
From: awtiger <awtiger at cox.net>
To:
tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 9:43:49 PM
Subject: [Tigers]
Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related)

Hey, guys:

Sorry to bomb the list
with this question but you guys were the only ones I 
could think of to ask.
Does anyone out there in Tigerland have the snap-together flooring (a.k.a.
"RaceDeck" or the like) in their garage/shop?  I'm considering installing it
in 
my new shop but I've got some concerns.  I know that it supposedly holds
up well 
with cars parked on it, but I wonder how well it does when you're
doing actual 
work to a car on it.  Has anyone had experience with this?  Do
jackstands tend 
to pierce the flooring?  How about jacks?  Can it be cleaned
up easily or does 
it lose it's luster?  I know no one around the Oklahoma
City area who has it so 
I'm flying kind of blind here.  Can anyone shed some
light on this for me?

By the way, I painted the floor in my last shop with
epoxy gray and it held up 
rather well.  I could do that again, although the
prep for that would be a 
killer on the new shop.

Thanks so much,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
B9006857LRX
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Fri Jul  9 05:02:39 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 07:02:39 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <900160.44981.qm@web82802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C85C7A0F.3BC9%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

>From old Porsche experience, we found that different  grades of Mobil 1 are
formulated differently.  For example, 0W40 is suitable for the flat six
because it has the necessary higher zinc content, while other grades do not
and should not be used.  I guess the bottom line is to check the zinc
content of the particular grade you're planning to use.  Probably, you will
find this information on the manufacturer's website.  Alternatively, check
the open Internet. 

Cheers.


On 7/9/10 12:21 AM, "Sandy Ganz" <sganz at pacbell.net> wrote:

> I think if the Rotella has the NEW formual or something like that on the oil
> it 
> is the newer blend. I have been using Rotella synthetic in my diesel as well
> as 
> in the race car (as well as other diesel oils in the race car) with good
> results. Anything with new low emissions, etc is bad. Brad Penn, and others
> make 
> oil loaded with additives that are good.
> 
> Sandy
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 8:22:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
> 
> Rotella WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear that
> is 
> not the case anymore, but can't confirm.
> 
> I used that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in
> recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I can
> say 
> is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I think Chinese) still has
> lobes.
> 
> Tom _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
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From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 05:23:00 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:23:00 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] exhaust follow up
Message-ID: <95c96.52aefd0c.39686094@aol.com>

Grew up  with a Ducati single cylinder motorcycle  and since have always 
gone for the thumping rather than the sewing machine  sound.
M
 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2010 10:57:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
stubrennan at comcast.net writes:

Let me  guess, Mark, you were a percussonist?  Jack hammer operator?
Aircraft  carrier flight deck guy?  

I had glass packs on my Tiger when I  got it, and they were #1 on the
list for replacement.  Just way too  loud.  Swapped them out for a pair
of big block Thunderbird  resonators, that were a lot quieter.  Finally
got back to stock,  quieter still.

Stu

From rande at thecia.net  Fri Jul  9 05:29:38 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:29:38 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
Message-ID: <4c370822.15ba.0@thecia.net>

Andy,

No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your behalf then he beats me to it.


He's the first person I'd think of to use show garage flooring, and he says
he has a cement floor, as I do!!! (Mine's about 15 years old, still looks new
but not easy to clean up fluids).

If you're still intent on floor tile for the garage, Griot's Garage - Seattle
area www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each with size covered,
how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for working on or just for
show.

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 05:35:23 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:35:23 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
Message-ID: <9633e.7c014d8f.3968637b@aol.com>

Interesting! The local Mercedes dealer uses nothing  but Mobile 0W-40. The 
only place I could find that stocked it, believe or not,  was
 Walmart:-)
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/9/2010 7:30:58 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
mcdangerous at verizon.net writes:

>From  old Porsche experience, we found that different  grades of Mobil 1  
are
formulated differently.  For example, 0W40 is suitable for the  flat six
because it has the necessary higher zinc content, while other  grades do not
and should not be used.  I guess the bottom line is to  check the zinc
content of the particular grade you're planning to  use.  Probably, you will
find this information on the manufacturer's  website.  Alternatively, check
the open Internet.  

Cheers.


On 7/9/10 12:21 AM, "Sandy Ganz"  <sganz at pacbell.net> wrote:

> I think if the Rotella has the  NEW formual or something like that on the 
oil
> it 
> is the newer  blend. I have been using Rotella synthetic in my diesel as 
well
> as  
> in the race car (as well as other diesel oils in the race car) with  good
> results. Anything with new low emissions, etc is bad. Brad Penn,  and 
others
> make 
> oil loaded with additives that are  good.
> 
> Sandy
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message  ----
> From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To:  tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010 8:22:01 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
> 
> Rotella  WAS purported to have higher zinc content. I'm starting to hear 
that
>  is 
> not the case anymore, but can't confirm.
> 
> I used  that and GM - E.O.S. (engine oil supplement) on a 318 I broke in
>  recently. I also heard rumors that it is also no longer available. All I 
 can
> say 
> is the cheap flat tappet cam (SSI brand from PAW - I  think Chinese) 
still has
> lobes.
> 
> Tom  _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net
>  _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From FHSLOTH13 at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 07:25:29 2010
From: FHSLOTH13 at aol.com (FHSLOTH13 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:25:29 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
Message-ID: <96bf2.6deaed15.39687d49@aol.com>

I just installed a U-Coat it system on my previously painted ten year  old 
floor. I stripped the floor and followed the directions. Stayed off the  
floor for about 7 days ( directions say 24-48 hours for light traffic). I just  
finished it about three weeks ago and have not had any bad experiences so 
far. I  dragged a heavy metal shelf set across it and saw no marks from the 
legs. Cost  me $475 for about 700 square feet of floor.
 
Fred Baum
 
 
In a message dated 7/9/2010 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rande at thecia.net writes:

Andy,

No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your behalf then  he beats me to 
it.


He's the first person I'd think of to use show  garage flooring, and he says
he has a cement floor, as I do!!! (Mine's  about 15 years old, still looks 
new
but not easy to clean up  fluids).

If you're still intent on floor tile for the garage, Griot's  Garage - 
Seattle
area www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each  with size 
covered,
how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for  working on or just  
for
show.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhsloth13 at aol.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 07:30:00 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:30:00 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
Message-ID: <9bcc8.2654a858.39687e58@aol.com>

Fred,
What was recommended to remove oil before  coating?
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/9/2010 9:26:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
FHSLOTH13 at aol.com writes:

I just  installed a U-Coat it system on my previously painted ten year  old 
 
floor. I stripped the floor and followed the directions. Stayed off  the  
floor for about 7 days ( directions say 24-48 hours for light  traffic). I 
just  
finished it about three weeks ago and have not had  any bad experiences so 
far. I  dragged a heavy metal shelf set across  it and saw no marks from 
the 
legs. Cost  me $475 for about 700 square  feet of floor.

Fred Baum


In a message dated 7/9/2010 7:47:25  A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rande at thecia.net  writes:

Andy,

No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your  behalf then  he beats me to 
it.


He's the first person I'd  think of to use show  garage flooring, and he 
says
he has a cement  floor, as I do!!! (Mine's  about 15 years old, still looks 
new
but  not easy to clean up  fluids).

If you're still intent on floor  tile for the garage, Griot's  Garage - 
Seattle
area  www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each  with size  
covered,
how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for   working on or just 
  
for
show.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:   http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:   http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:   http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:   
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From marcsmall at comcast.net  Fri Jul  9 07:30:51 2010
From: marcsmall at comcast.net (Marc James Small)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 09:30:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Two Truckloads of Alpine and Tiger Parts
In-Reply-To: <20100305232140.2E9FD187660@autox.team.net>
References: <20100305.222254.24080.1@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>
	<20100305232140.2E9FD187660@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20100709133054.E9C76187660@autox.team.net>

This was advertised in my local paper, the Richmond (VA) TIMES-DISPATCH.

Series II through V, some very rare parts. $1500.  Maryland:  410-535-6468

That is all I know.  Go for it, guys!

Marc


msmall at aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!

From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 08:23:13 2010
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 07:23:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <C85BF68F.3BAB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <476255.75988.qm@web51301.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi,
     I concur with the short 100 mile break in run and then change oil..It is
my experience, as a person who built Auto-Craft VW motors for some years, that
Valvoline oil is the stuff to use. We built many VW motors for sprint
cars..They developed 240 HP out of 2400cc VW engines..Many tests(don't ask)
concluded that Valvoline was the only oil to keep these well developed VW
engines in one piece.  I am also aware that an air cooled VW is a far cry from
a water cooled small block Ford, but, having done SCCA racing with many
different water cooled high output engines, I still would recommend Vavoline
as my oil of choice..The viscosity of the oil would be detirmined by factors
such as bering clearances, load on the berings, pump pressure, RPM range of
the application and the cooling capacity of the system.  I believe that this
applies only to Dino oils as synthetic oils are so different in operating
characteristics that they in no way compare to Dino
 oils.
     zym

The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.

--- On Thu, 7/8/10, Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:


From: Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
To: "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, July 8, 2010, 9:41 PM


Cool, thanks.


On 7/8/10 9:24 PM, "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com> wrote:

> The WSM recommends 10W-30 oil
>
> On 9 July 2010 10:55, Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:
>> I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289 engine.
>> Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I don't want
>> to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you all using, 20W50?
>> Thanks!
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From chris at cthompson.net  Fri Jul  9 08:29:11 2010
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 10:29:11 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
In-Reply-To: <96bf2.6deaed15.39687d49@aol.com>
References: <96bf2.6deaed15.39687d49@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C373237.9070305@cthompson.net>

When I built my last garage, I did 2-part epoxy on the floor, and am 
still pretty happy with it - very durable, and *can* be cleaned.  Am 
building a new 8-car garage right now and spent a goodly amount of time 
looking at the options.  Looks like the best bet for me is porcelain 
tile.  While the "show car garage" people sell it for $10+ per sq ft, 
it's also readily available for as little as $2.50 per sq ft at your 
local tile shop.....

Chris
B382000331

FHSLOTH13 at aol.com wrote:
> I just installed a U-Coat it system on my previously painted ten year  old 
> floor. I stripped the floor and followed the directions. Stayed off the  
> floor for about 7 days ( directions say 24-48 hours for light traffic). I just  
> finished it about three weeks ago and have not had any bad experiences so 
> far. I  dragged a heavy metal shelf set across it and saw no marks from the 
> legs. Cost  me $475 for about 700 square feet of floor.
>  
> Fred Baum

From tigerdan at cavtel.net  Fri Jul  9 08:38:17 2010
From: tigerdan at cavtel.net (Dan Fitzgerald)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 10:38:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <616A1248-2298-45BE-92E9-5F4F5D43A393@cavtel.net>
Message-ID: <C85CAC99.5527%TigerDan@cavtel.net>

All,

Here are two websites that have pictures of my car.  Please let me know if
you are interested or need to see other detailed views.

Thanks,

Dan

http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/b419/jeninaf/Sunbeam%20Tiger/

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm

From jd.sencindiver at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 08:46:43 2010
From: jd.sencindiver at gmail.com (Jim Sencindiver)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 10:46:43 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Two Truckloads of Alpine and Tiger Parts
In-Reply-To: <20100709133054.E9C76187660@autox.team.net>
References: <20100305.222254.24080.1@webmail01.vgs.untd.com>
	<20100305232140.2E9FD187660@autox.team.net>
	<20100709133054.E9C76187660@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilh322N2el9Kqj46ZzVGjphN8wrBcbfAoLi4UIE@mail.gmail.com>

Called the number and it went to voicemail.  I believe the voicemail intro
said "You have reached the Swansons.  Please leave a brief message and we
will get back with you."  I left them a message and my cell phone #.  Let's
see if they call me back.

Keep on Tigering!
Jim Sencindiver

On Fri, Jul 9, 2010 at 9:30 AM, Marc James Small <marcsmall at comcast.net>wrote:

> This was advertised in my local paper, the Richmond (VA) TIMES-DISPATCH.
>
> Series II through V, some very rare parts. $1500.  Maryland:  410-535-6468
>
> That is all I know.  Go for it, guys!
>
> Marc
>
>
> msmall at aya.yale.edu
> Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!

From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 09:27:13 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 08:27:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <SNT111-DS109E63E8FD4FB228211B3ECBB50@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT111-DS109E63E8FD4FB228211B3ECBB50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <616252.20158.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

This subject was covered months ago.  Most modern oils
no longer contain the
ZDDP necessary to protect your engine.
Available at parts store and your GM
dealer.
Say thank you EPA for saving my catalyst which I dont have.

The
conclusions were:
(1) add a bottle of ZDDP additive to you oil when changing
(2) use Moboil 1 which still has some ZDP but it is being phased out
(3) use
Shell Rotella oil.  Usually used in deseil engine and still has
     ZDDP in
it. Rotella is an excellent oil to use.  Available at
    Walmart etc

I agree
with using 10W30W for breakin and then switchin to 20W50W

Dave
________________________________
From: Thomas Prager <tcprager at hotmail.com>
To: tigers_United_forum <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010
10:35:50 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?

I am running
20/50 dino, but now that I have 5,000 miles on the motor I am
considering
switching to synthetic oil. Is there any reason to stick with
conventional
oil?

tom
9472154
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 09:40:55 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 08:40:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] A "different" Alger
In-Reply-To: <DEE0F9AC1B204A6C936C4C63A02D6EED@student2>
References: <DEE0F9AC1B204A6C936C4C63A02D6EED@student2>
Message-ID: <146994.69390.qm@web111604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

What about the 65 TVR,  Triumph TR8  all real cars not modified
cars.  The MGB
V8 came with a Rover 3500 V8.  Few were sold
At the Chicago Brit Car Fest
there is a MGTD with a 289.  And then
there is my favorite  A Morgan 8 with a
LT1 motor.

DAve




________________________________
From: Thomas Witt
<atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 8, 2010
2:39:17 PM
Subject: [Tigers] A "different" Alger

Could this be the oldest
"Alger" or a proto-type Tiger that was "late to the 
ball?" :-)
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner/d
alerearaxle.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.britishv8.org/MG/DaleSpooner.htm&usg=__A
QyI9COcb3mkCn23KPCJIxdG9Eo=&h=390&w=600&sz=29&hl=en&start=3&itbs=1&tbnid=xN7T
cDiGiFCmeM:&tbnh=88&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dford%2B8%2522%2Brear%2Bend%26
hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DN%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:
official%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26tbs%3Disch:1


I'm not too fond of the stock
version of this car, but this is pretty cool. 
Neither am I fan of side pipes,
but in this case they really help with the 
looks.

Tom
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 10:25:06 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:25:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] 1965 Sunbeam Tiger for Sale - $23500 - SOLD
Message-ID: <371275.1025.qm@web53605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I guess the part of my ad that said "motivated seller" was right.  First guy
that showed up to look at it loved it, made an offer, and we struck a deal,
and he bought it.  Thanks for the interest others expressed.  She's going to a
good home.
 
Peter



From: Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
Subject: 1965 Sunbeam Tiger for Sale - $23500
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, June 28, 2010, 10:57 AM







I tried to email the group first last night re my tiger for sale, but it seems
to not have gone through.  In that email i gave more color than this public
ad, incl the VIN (though the pics have it shown), more color on why selling
(have another tiger that will be a "keeper for life" that doug jennings is
just finishing up after a 3.5 year bare metal resto and another light blue one
the wifey loves), etc.  So here is the details, hopefully the link doesnt make
this tiger list post get blocked.  Email me with any questions.
 
http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/1814624610.html
 
Thks
Peter

From awtiger at cox.net  Fri Jul  9 10:28:52 2010
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:28:52 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <C85CAC99.5527%TigerDan@cavtel.net>
Message-ID: <20100709122852.UCUQY.1012562.imail@eastrmwml44>

Beautiful car, Dan!!!  I really like the black-dash Tigers...my first Tiger was B9470058 and it had the black dash.  Little did I know what it meant at the time...

Take care and best of luck,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
B9006857LRX

---- Dan Fitzgerald <tigerdan at cavtel.net> wrote: 
> All,
> 
> Here are two websites that have pictures of my car.  Please let me know if
> you are interested or need to see other detailed views.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan
> 
> http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/b419/jeninaf/Sunbeam%20Tiger/
> 
> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger at cox.net

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 10:47:45 2010
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:47:45 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
Message-ID: <d348f.46faba26.3968acb1@aol.com>

I have no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys  
that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was better 
than  any oil they tested including their own. None of them worked for Castrol.
Just an FYI.
 
Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger project
B382000257

 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2010 8:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
mcdangerous at verizon.net writes:

I am  trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289  engine.
Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I  don't want
to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you  all using, 20W50? 

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 10:52:32 2010
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:52:32 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions
Message-ID: <d39f0.adfa124.3968add0@aol.com>

Just wanted to give everyone an update. 
I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the  
intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to find out 
 if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit.
 
I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock  
cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than the 
FMS  unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried about 
the stock  rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though)
 
Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger  project
B382000257

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 11:01:28 2010
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:01:28 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
Message-ID: <d444b.7c2e6d3.3968afe8@aol.com>

In the world of aviation, we break in an engine with straight mineral oil  
for the first few changes (10 & 25 hours) then switch to an ashless  
dispersant (additive) oil or semi-synthetic. The FAA subscribes to the theory  that 
straight synthetic oil will run off the cylinders and other parts, leaving  
them open to rust and corrosion. Most aircraft engines, like most Tiger 
engines,  do not see everyday use.
 
Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger project
B382000257

 
 
In a message dated 7/8/2010 9:38:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
rfraser at bluefrog.com writes:

Have you already done a break in run on the engine?   I would  use
10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high  
pressure
additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which  does not
need the additives.  I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40  as regular oil.
Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure  off hand which
ones.

Ron Fraser

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U.  Believe
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM
To:  tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for  260/289/302?


I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil  for the 289 engine.
Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be  run in, I don't want
to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil  are you all using, 20W50?
Thanks!  _______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No  virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG -  www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date:  07/08/10
18:36:00
_______________________________________________
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Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From dave at munroe.ca  Fri Jul  9 11:03:08 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 14:03:08 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions
In-Reply-To: <d39f0.adfa124.3968add0@aol.com>
References: <d39f0.adfa124.3968add0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3D3D96DBF2C84EF8AE3AFF2AAF7BCEC2@DavePC>

Tom;

Yeah, and you want to be careful that the higher lift of the cam and rockers 
don't drive the valve spring caps into the valve guides either. Ask me how I 
know....

Dave


]
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gyroplanes at aol.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 1:52 PM
Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions


> Just wanted to give everyone an update.
> I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the
> intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to 
> find out
> if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit.
>
> I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock
> cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than 
> the
> FMS  unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried 
> about
> the stock  rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though)
>
> Tom  Milton
> Lansing, IL.
> 1964 Tiger  project
> B382000257
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca

From drarmacost at pmlights.com  Fri Jul  9 11:06:33 2010
From: drarmacost at pmlights.com (Armacost, Don Jr.)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:06:33 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
References: <d444b.7c2e6d3.3968afe8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EA7ABD4D268E874DBF9BA28D83ABDF970313C340@MAIL.pmlights.com>

We use Valvoline 20W-50 Part #VV851 which is available at just about any
auto parts store.  You have to ask for it by part number only and it is
kept behind the counter because it is not "street legal" due to the ZZDP
and other friction modifiers used in the oil.  Have had no problems with
it and we use it in a number of antique cars varying from 45 to 75 years
old.

B9473374

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gyroplanes at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 12:01 PM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; mcdangerous at verizon.net; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?

In the world of aviation, we break in an engine with straight mineral
oil
for the first few changes (10 & 25 hours) then switch to an ashless
dispersant (additive) oil or semi-synthetic. The FAA subscribes to the
theory  that
straight synthetic oil will run off the cylinders and other parts,
leaving
them open to rust and corrosion. Most aircraft engines, like most Tiger
engines,  do not see everyday use.

Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger project
B382000257



In a message dated 7/8/2010 9:38:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
rfraser at bluefrog.com writes:

Have you already done a break in run on the engine?   I would  use
10W30 not 20W50 plus a bottle of break in oil that has all the high
pressure
additives for the break in run unless you have a roller cam which  does
not
need the additives.  I would continue to run 10W30 or 10W40  as regular
oil.
Some of the oils have more of the additive but I'm not sure  off hand
which
ones.

Ron Fraser

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U.  Believe
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2010 8:55 PM
To:  tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for  260/289/302?


I am trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil  for the 289
engine.
Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be  run in, I don't
want
to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil  are you all using,
20W50?
Thanks!  _______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No  virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG -  www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.439 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2983 - Release Date:
07/08/10
18:36:00
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drarmacost at pmlights.com


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disseminate, distribute, copy or alter this email. Any views or opinions
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attachments.

From Tigerman67 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  9 11:38:24 2010
From: Tigerman67 at hotmail.com (Tiger Man)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:38:24 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
In-Reply-To: <4C373237.9070305@cthompson.net>
References: <96bf2.6deaed15.39687d49@aol.com> <4C373237.9070305@cthompson.net>
Message-ID: <BAY119-DS4535A892D575924C56260C1B50@phx.gbl>

Chris,

I'm a big fan of inexpensive and clever solutions, but I thought most 
ceramic and porcelain tiles were subject to crack, break or shatter if you 
dropped something solid on them.  I had some tile installed in my bathroom, 
and they told me it was much more resistant to that kind of breakage, but 
wouldn't really say how much more resistant.  I personally tend to be a bit 
clumsy out in the shop so I was wondering how big of an issue that is, or is 
the tile you are getting is designed to take that.

Thanks,
Steve





> When I built my last garage, I did 2-part epoxy on the floor, and am still 
> pretty happy with it - very durable, and *can* be cleaned.  Am building a 
> new 8-car garage right now and spent a goodly amount of time looking at 
> the options.  Looks like the best bet for me is porcelain tile.  While the 
> "show car garage" people sell it for $10+ per sq ft, it's also readily 
> available for as little as $2.50 per sq ft at your local tile shop.....

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Jul  9 12:11:38 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 14:11:38 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions
In-Reply-To: <d39f0.adfa124.3968add0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5D7FE4B124134BCE886AB7BC32695AB9@ronpc1>

Tom
	I have seen some put 2 gaskets under the valve covers to clear
valves.  I don't know if there is enough room for that on the Tiger.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Gyroplanes at aol.com
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 12:53 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions


Just wanted to give everyone an update.
I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the
intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to find
out
 if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit.

I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock
cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than the

FMS  unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried about
the stock  rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though)

Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger  project
B382000257
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2990 - Release Date: 07/09/10
06:36:00

From bob at rjosten.com  Fri Jul  9 12:24:17 2010
From: bob at rjosten.com (Bob Josten)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:24:17 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Garage/shop flooring (not Tiger related)
In-Reply-To: <8FFCC275541E4795B847CFDB05210A0D@awtigerPC>
References: <C85BEBB4.3BA5%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<29C1B095B5374673A29A566F8DBCD72C@BucksLaptop>
	<BCCD9B9E538D4E3BAD25FDFAFB9DC16F@student2>
	<8FFCC275541E4795B847CFDB05210A0D@awtigerPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin7RdJG_IpBD_BONCDz27Tq3HzS4Ocz7wOdgzwf@mail.gmail.com>

Andy, if your concrete floor is in generally good condition consider having
it polished and then sealed. It's the same technique that was used often
years ago on terrazzo floors.
After grinding it is best sealed with a product like Retro Plate
http://www.retroplatesystem.com/ .
The result is a very smooth 'wet' look floor that is non-porous and is
similar in appearance to marble but without the cost and no grout lines.
All the floors in my house are this finish and some day I will empty out my
shop and do the same there.
This is how it looks
http://www.concretereflections.com/Gallery/Gallery_1.asp .
You can also stain the concrete after grinding but before sealing with an
acid stain like those made by Scofield.
The Home Depot near me spend it's first two years of operation constantly
cleaning the fork lift scuff marks off their floors and then finally ended
up having them polished and sealed. It's much nicer looking and way easier
to maintain.

regards
Bob J.



On Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 9:43 PM, awtiger <awtiger at cox.net> wrote:

> Hey, guys:
>
> Sorry to bomb the list with this question but you guys were the only ones I
> could think of to ask.
>
> Does anyone out there in Tigerland have the snap-together flooring (a.k.a.
> "RaceDeck" or the like) in their garage/shop?  I'm considering installing it
> in my new shop but I've got some concerns.  I know that it supposedly holds
> up well with cars parked on it, but I wonder how well it does when you're
> doing actual work to a car on it.  Has anyone had experience with this?  Do
> jackstands tend to pierce the flooring?  How about jacks?  Can it be cleaned
> up easily or does it lose it's luster?  I know no one around the Oklahoma
> City area who has it so I'm flying kind of blind here.  Can anyone shed some
> light on this for me?
>
> By the way, I painted the floor in my last shop with epoxy gray and it held
> up rather well.  I could do that again, although the prep for that would be
> a killer on the new shop.
>
> Thanks so much,
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
> B382001600LRXFE
> B9006857LRX _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bob at rjosten.com

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 12:34:56 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 11:34:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <d348f.46faba26.3968acb1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <502426.71419.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I do not use Castrol 30 or 40W  now as I went to their synthetic oil a couple
years back. But I used it in my first two Tigers, which covered from 1972 thru
1984 if memory serves. I always liked the product, for what that is worth. It
is easy to see when it needs changing, no matter the mileage. I strongly
believe that changing your oil regularly is the life of an engine, so if your
cars overheats severely, I would change the oil as I believe the extreme high
temps helps to break the oil down.
TtT

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, Gyroplanes at aol.com <Gyroplanes at aol.com> wrote:


From: Gyroplanes at aol.com <Gyroplanes at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
To: mcdangerous at verizon.net, tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 11:47 AM


I have no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys 
that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was better
than  any oil they tested including their own. None of them worked for
Castrol.
Just an FYI.

Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger project
B382000257



In a message dated 7/8/2010 8:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
mcdangerous at verizon.net writes:

I am  trying to figure out the best choice of dino oil for the 289  engine.
Because the engine is freshly rebuilt and needs to be run in, I  don't want
to use synthetic (too slippery).  What grade oil are you  all using, 20W50?
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com

From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 13:09:52 2010
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:09:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil
Message-ID: <204681.60419.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

There was a exellent article in British Motoring Magazine called "Oil for
Classic British Sports Cars" that discuss's the lack of zink in today's oil. 
I 
have a copy that I can send to anyone who might like it.  Do not know which
edition the article was in - you could look at them and probably find it via
http://www.britishmotoring.net/  Sure wish we could provide attachments via
this 
post.

Joel Martin

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 13:10:27 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:10:27 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale - HOSE CLAMPS
In-Reply-To: <C85CAC99.5527%TigerDan@cavtel.net>
References: <C85CAC99.5527%TigerDan@cavtel.net>
Message-ID: <4C377423.1090604@socal.rr.com>

Dan,

Good looking Tiger. My 1965 Tiger Mk I has the wood dash (B9472289),  
Wonder when they changed to wood?

Tigers,

The pics shown on: second one down, are a good illustration of the 
Original Top  radiator hose, and Breather cap hoses:

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm

Note the clamps are dual wire-type, not worm drive bands. See previous post with Norman's commentary quoted.

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Dan Fitzgerald wrote:
> All,
>
> Here are two websites that have pictures of my car.  Please let me know if
> you are interested or need to see other detailed views.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
> http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/b419/jeninaf/Sunbeam%20Tiger/
>
> http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm
> _______________________________________________

From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 13:18:05 2010
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:18:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil
Message-ID: <805030.38975.qm@web38102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Would you just know it, as soon as first email sent - I find the right one.
Here you go.
http://www.britishmotoring.net/Archives/2009_Winter.pdf

Joel
Martin



----- Original Message ----
From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii at yahoo.com>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, July 9, 2010 3:09:52 PM
Subject: RE: Best
Dino Oil

There was a exellent article in British Motoring Magazine called
"Oil for 
Classic British Sports Cars" that discuss's the lack of zink in
today's oil.  I 
have a copy that I can send to anyone who might like it.  Do
not know which 
edition the article was in - you could look at them and
probably find it via 
http://www.britishmotoring.net/  Sure wish we could
provide attachments via this 

post.

Joel Martin

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Jul  9 13:22:45 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 15:22:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <502426.71419.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A0271472ECD7412E811144C0BB4A227A@ronpc1>

Tony
	Engine oil and ATF are designed to work best at around 200 degrees
F; as the temp rises these products degrade at an exponential rate and need
to be changed more often.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Tony Somebody
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 2:35 PM
To: mcdangerous at verizon.net; tigers at autox.team.net; Gyroplanes at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?


I do not use Castrol 30 or 40W  now as I went to their synthetic oil a
couple years back. But I used it in my first two Tigers, which covered from
1972 thru 1984 if memory serves. I always liked the product, for what that
is worth. It is easy to see when it needs changing, no matter the mileage. I
strongly believe that changing your oil regularly is the life of an engine,
so if your cars overheats severely, I would change the oil as I believe the
extreme high temps helps to break the oil down. TtT

From arado7 at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul  9 13:26:19 2010
From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 12:26:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
In-Reply-To: <502426.71419.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <967891.10103.qm@web82705.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, Tony Somebody <achd73 at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Tony Somebody <achd73 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Dino Oil for 260/289/302?
To: mcdangerous at verizon.net, tigers at autox.team.net, Gyroplanes at aol.com
Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 6:34 PM


I do not use Castrol 30 or 40W  now as I went to their synthetic oil a couple
years back. But I used it in my first two Tigers, which covered from 1972
thru
1984 if memory serves. I always liked the product, for what that is worth. It
is easy to see when it needs changing, no matter the mileage. I strongly
believe that changing your oil regularly is the life of an engine, so if your
cars overheats severely, I would change the oil as I believe the extreme high
temps helps to break the oil down.
TtT


I  have used Mobil1 in my Tiger since I rebuilt the drive train in 1986. I use
20-50 since I don't live in the artic and Tigers run hot.  I change oil
annually or 12K miles. .  The same for my Brit bikes Norton and Triumph. 
Gary  B9472283

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 13:26:55 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:26:55 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
In-Reply-To: <4c370822.15ba.0@thecia.net>
References: <4c370822.15ba.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <4C3777FF.5080501@socal.rr.com>

Thanks for the link, Rande,

I have the same concerns as Andy.  My floor is concrete, and is used for 
parking, and some maintenance work.

I have used floor jacks, jack stands, "wheelie dealies", etc. with no 
remaining scars.  I, too, have seen  some very attractive, and 
expensive, flooring, and have the same concerns.

Epoxy paint is used by some.  Griot's seems to have quite a collection, 
but I haven't tried any. 

www.griotsgarage.com  lot's of choices, but which?

Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various types, or has use-tested any.


Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



rande wrote:
> Andy,
>
> No sooner am I asking Sandy to pipe in on your behalf then he beats me to it.
>
>
> He's the first person I'd think of to use show garage flooring, and he says
> he has a cement floor, as I do!!! (Mine's about 15 years old, still looks new
> but not easy to clean up fluids).
>
> If you're still intent on floor tile for the garage, Griot's Garage - Seattle
> area www.griotsgarage.com offers a number of choices, each with size covered,
> how much weight each allows, and whether it's good for working on or just for
> show.

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 13:33:03 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:33:03 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions
In-Reply-To: <d39f0.adfa124.3968add0@aol.com>
References: <d39f0.adfa124.3968add0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4C37796F.3030900@socal.rr.com>

Yes, Tom,

The shallow LAT valve covers can do this. 

I have heard of using two gaskets (maybe bonded to each other in the 
facing sides, to gain some clearance, as well as removing the standard 
metal plates.

No experience here, but "love will find a way!"

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Gyroplanes at aol.com wrote:
> Just wanted to give everyone an update. 
> I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to remove the  
> intake within the next few days (the suspense is killing me) I need to find out 
>  if I do indeed have a roller cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit.
>  
> I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found the Edelbrock  
> cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is considerably cheaper than the 
> FMS  unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still worried about 
> the stock  rockers bumping my LAT Tiger aluminum covers though)
>  
> Tom  Milton
> Lansing, IL.
> 1964 Tiger  project
> B382000257

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Jul  9 13:46:20 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 15:46:20 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale - HOSE CLAMPS
In-Reply-To: <4C377423.1090604@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <6C2754017ABB4127A0651DBE2D404F09@ronpc1>

Steve 
	You are correct about the hose clamps.  The original hose clamps on
the Tiger engine were a combination of double wire, band, single wire, Ford
tower and cotter pin band clamps.

	The band clamp on the small hose to the header tank is period
correct, I believe, and so is a double wire clamp.  I have not determined
the exact clamp used in this position or if there is a transition date from
one to the other.   Dan has a band clamp on the heater valve which is
exactly the type of clamp I'm trying to determine is still available
anywhere.  Dan also has the correct cotter pin clamp on the brake booster.

	If anyone knows the part number and source of the band clamp for the
heater valve hoses; please pass it along.

	I believe Rootes went to the wood dash, the GT Alpine dash, to
upgrade the interior package for the Tiger and add more differences between
the two models.   I would also guess that they got a better price for
increasing the quantity of wood dashes produced.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Laifman
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 3:10 PM
To: Dan Fitzgerald
Cc: Tiger List
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale - HOSE CLAMPS


Dan,

Good looking Tiger. My 1965 Tiger Mk I has the wood dash (B9472289),  
Wonder when they changed to wood?

Tigers,

The pics shown on: second one down, are a good illustration of the 
Original Top  radiator hose, and Breather cap hoses:

http://www.britishv8.org/Other/DanFitzgerald.htm

Note the clamps are dual wire-type, not worm drive bands. See previous post
with Norman's commentary quoted.

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 14:08:09 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <20100709122852.UCUQY.1012562.imail@eastrmwml44>
Message-ID: <870637.51036.qm@web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

whats the story on black dashes?  was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one
tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe it
was?

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger at cox.net <awtiger at cox.net> wrote:


From: awtiger at cox.net <awtiger at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
To: "Tiger List" <tigers at autox.team.net>, "tigers-bounces at autox.team.net"
<tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>, "Dan Fitzgerald" <tigerdan at cavtel.net>
Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 12:28 PM


Beautiful car, Dan!!!  I really like the black-dash Tigers...my first Tiger
was B9470058 and it had the black dash.  Little did I know what it meant at
the time...

From FHSLOTH13 at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 14:11:00 2010
From: FHSLOTH13 at aol.com (FHSLOTH13 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:11:00 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
Message-ID: <21e11.412d2d36.3968dc54@aol.com>

According to Norman, Page 15, about 400 Tigers had black vinyl  dashes.
 
Fred baum
 
 
In a message dated 7/9/2010 4:08:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
laurin212 at yahoo.com writes:

whats  the story on black dashes?  was gonna swap mine out for a walnut  one
tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original,  maybe 
it
was?

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger at cox.net  <awtiger at cox.net> wrote:


From: awtiger at cox.net  <awtiger at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
To: "Tiger  List" <tigers at autox.team.net>,  "tigers-bounces at autox.team.net"
<tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>, "Dan  Fitzgerald" <tigerdan at cavtel.net>
Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 12:28  PM


Beautiful car, Dan!!!  I really like the black-dash  Tigers...my first Tiger
was B9470058 and it had the black dash.   Little did I know what it meant at
the  time...
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhsloth13 at aol.com

From awtiger at cox.net  Fri Jul  9 14:15:45 2010
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:15:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <870637.51036.qm@web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100709161545.QVZFF.1015507.imail@eastrmwml44>

Peter:

As Fred just stated, somewhere around the first 400 Tigers had the black vinyl
Alpine dashes.  I don't know what number your car is, but if it's a very early
Mk1, then the black dash is more than likely correct for it.  In other words,
don't swap the dashes until you know for sure if you're intent is to stay
original.

Take care,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
B9006857LRX

---- Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> whats the story on black dashes?B  was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one
tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe it
was?
>
> --- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger at cox.net <awtiger at cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> From: awtiger at cox.net <awtiger at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
> To: "Tiger List" <tigers at autox.team.net>, "tigers-bounces at autox.team.net"
<tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>, "Dan Fitzgerald" <tigerdan at cavtel.net>
> Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 12:28 PM
>
>
> Beautiful car, Dan!!!B  I really like the black-dash Tigers...my first Tiger
was B9470058 and it had the black dash.B  Little did I know what it meant at
the time...

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 14:20:27 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter L)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:20:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <20100709161545.QVZFF.1015507.imail@eastrmwml44>
Message-ID: <675812.17854.qm@web53607.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

its B9473454, so unlikely its one of those first 400 unfortunately.  hmmm....
 
 

From: awtiger at cox.net

Peter:

As Fred just stated, somewhere around the first 400 Tigers had the black vinyl
Alpine dashes.  I don't know what number your car is, but if it's a very early
Mk1, then the black dash is more than likely correct for it.  In other words,
don't swap the dashes until you know for sure if you're intent is to stay
original.

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 14:49:35 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 13:49:35 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] HOSE CLAMPS - Redux
In-Reply-To: <6C2754017ABB4127A0651DBE2D404F09@ronpc1>
References: <6C2754017ABB4127A0651DBE2D404F09@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <4C378B5F.70000@socal.rr.com>

Ron,

Here is the link to a site that sells British hose clamps, etc. that was 
posted before:

http://www.englishparts.com/products/CLAMP--RADIATOR-HOSE-WIRE-TYPE--1-38-TO-1-916-IN-HOSE/7275/326-430.html

The double wire radiator hoses are #326-430 (but specified for Healy, 
Sprite, Midget, etc.) are probably the same, @ $2.05 each.
The water valve clamps are $1.40 each.

Lots of other  MG, Healey, and Triumph bits and pieces.   Believe they 
are the same as the Tiger clamps ,  watch sizes!

Let us know how your project ends up, and read the post about TBON 
quote, below:

TBON (The Book of Norman) shows the water and oil cap vent hoses with 
the "wire-type", and heater as the simple plain clamp band.  He says 
(pp153):


   1. "All 1/2" hoses were CAD plated English "band clamps.".
   2. "All 5/8" hose clamps used CAD plated English "double wire clamps"
      at all but three locations."
   3. "The water pump by-pass hose was clamped with CAD plated Ford
      screw clamps at both ends"
   4. "The heater core return hose was clamped with a CAD plated Ford
      screw clamped with clamp at the elbow manifold fitting.
   5. "Upper and lower radiator hoses were clamped with CAD plated
      English double wire clamps"


Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



 Ron Fraser wrote:
> Steve 
> 	You are correct about the hose clamps.  The original hose clamps on
> the Tiger engine were a combination of double wire, band, single wire, Ford
> tower and cotter pin band clamps.
>
> 	The band clamp on the small hose to the header tank is period
> correct, I believe, and so is a double wire clamp.  I have not determined
> the exact clamp used in this position or if there is a transition date from
> one to the other.   Dan has a band clamp on the heater valve which is
> exactly the type of clamp I'm trying to determine is still available
> anywhere.  Dan also has the correct cotter pin clamp on the brake booster.
>
> 	If anyone knows the part number and source of the band clamp for the
> heater valve hoses; please pass it along.
>
> 	I believe Rootes went to the wood dash, the GT Alpine dash, to
> upgrade the interior package for the Tiger and add more differences between
> the two models.   I would also guess that they got a better price for
> increasing the quantity of wood dashes produced.
>
> Ron Fraser

From awtiger at cox.net  Fri Jul  9 14:53:13 2010
From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:53:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
In-Reply-To: <675812.17854.qm@web53607.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100709165313.6C6H4.1015897.imail@eastrmwml44>

You're right...go on with the wood dash plan.  The black dash should not be in
a car that late in production.

Best of luck,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK
B382001600LRXFE
B9006857LRX

---- Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> its B9473454, so unlikely its one of those first 400 unfortunately.B 
hmmm....
> B 
> B 
>
> From: awtiger at cox.net
>
> Peter:
>
> As Fred just stated, somewhere around the first 400 Tigers had the black
vinyl Alpine dashes.B  I don't know what number your car is, but if it's a
very early Mk1, then the black dash is more than likely correct for it.B  In
other words, don't swap the dashes until you know for sure if you're intent is
to stay original.

From v8tracker at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 16:18:55 2010
From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 17:18:55 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions
In-Reply-To: <5D7FE4B124134BCE886AB7BC32695AB9@ronpc1>
References: <d39f0.adfa124.3968add0@aol.com>
	<5D7FE4B124134BCE886AB7BC32695AB9@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <B9392B202F4F4B4D9D8123FD83833174@DellD4700>

Tom,

Even if it is not an original roller lifter block, it can be converted
fairly inexpensively. The holddown kits to use original style lifters are
about $50 new and are available used. I may even have enough spares to make
up a set for you. The lifters are more expensive than non-rollers, but
considering the extra risk with flat tappet break-ins we've been talking
about and the inherent advantages of roller lifters, it seems that rollers
are the only way to go. 

There are also linked roller lifters that can be used in place of the
original Ford type lifters without needing the holddowns. 

Modeling clay or Play-Do in a zip lock bag laid on your rocker arms will let
you check the clearance with your valve covers, but, of course, the engine
has to be put together first. As a point of reference, I seem to have plenty
of clearance with an E303 cam and Ford B351 roller rockers under a cast
aluminum "Power by Ford" valve cover with no mods to the baffles. The engine
hasn't been started yet.

Good luck with your engine.

A. C. Tynes
New Orleans

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser
> Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 1:12 PM
> To: Gyroplanes at aol.com; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions
> 
> Tom
> 	I have seen some put 2 gaskets under the valve covers 
> to clear valves.  I don't know if there is enough room for 
> that on the Tiger.
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Gyroplanes at aol.com
> Sent: Friday, July 09, 2010 12:53 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] My project update and a few questions
> 
> 
> Just wanted to give everyone an update.
> I moved the replacement 302 engine into my shop and plan to 
> remove the intake within the next few days (the suspense is 
> killing me) I need to find out  if I do indeed have a roller 
> cam engine, so I can order a cam and kit.
> 
> I was considering a Ford racing B303 cam, but I have found 
> the Edelbrock cam (recommended for my manifold and heads) is 
> considerably cheaper than the
> 
> FMS  unit and slightly bigger in lift and duration (I'm still 
> worried about the stock  rockers bumping my LAT Tiger 
> aluminum covers though)
> 
> Tom  Milton
> Lansing, IL.
> 1964 Tiger  project
> B382000257
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2990 - Release 
> Date: 07/09/10 06:36:00 
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com

From mai65tai at sonic.net  Fri Jul  9 17:00:00 2010
From: mai65tai at sonic.net (John Stithem)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 16:00:00 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311
In-Reply-To: <mailman.28326.1278713891.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.28326.1278713891.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001e01cb1fba$75c5b360$61511a20$@net>

The black dashes were used in the early Tiger's. The exact number is in
question. I have had 2 early Tigers--one vin# 254 which I still own and it
has an original black dash, another Tiger that was stolen in 1980 vin# 263
and it also had an original black dash. TBON states the black dash stopped
somewhere around vin# 256---which leads to the statement "The exact number
is in question". 
But we don't really know what the Tiger builders did at Rootes. They may
have sent out a number of Tigers with wood dashes, discovered they had one
black dash left and put it on a Tiger out of order. We have seen stranger
things than that show up on these Tigers when trying to figure out when and
why they did something to the cars.

If your vin# is before 263--it could have an original black dash and if you
want to keep it original----don't give up the dash. If your vin# is larger
than 264---it is probably a transplanted dash from an Alpine.

John



Message: 3
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
To: Tiger List <tigers at autox.team.net>,
	"tigers-bounces at autox.team.net"	<tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>, Dan
	Fitzgerald <tigerdan at cavtel.net>, 	awtiger at cox.net
Message-ID: <870637.51036.qm at web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

whats the story on black dashes?  was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one
tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe
it
was?

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger at cox.net <awtiger at cox.net> wrote:


271.1.1/2989 - Release Date: 07/08/10 23:36:00

From rande at thecia.net  Fri Jul  9 17:13:02 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 19:13:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] What's with the black dash?
Message-ID: <4c37acfe.242.0@thecia.net>

I'll trust Norms numbers for the end of black dash cars.

The reason for them is that early on, Rootes wanted to offer two models of the
Tiger, the same as Alpine. The sports tourer specs included rubber flooring,
black instrument panel, black steering wheel, and provisions for a soft top.
Hard top optional.

If you went for the GT, you got wood wheel, wood instrument panel, full carpeting,
dome light switches in the door hinges, altered and upholstered area behind
the front seats, and no soft top, but standard hard top.

As wiser minds prevailed(let's use Norm's cut off point) Rootes decided to make
just one model,  let's call it a sports tourer with full carpet, wood instrument
panel and steering wheel
,keep the soft top, omit the special GT cockpit, and keep the hard top as an
option.

I've seen two Tiger GT's, one photographed with its hard top, and one displayed
at the '95 Grants Pass missing the hard top but with the unique upholstered
rear cockpit. I think Brett Simpson's car ( I think it's Pressed Steel body
#1) that was at Big Sky is a sports tourer. I hope someone from the Northwest
will correct me on Brett's car.

From rgraf at bellatlantic.net  Fri Jul  9 17:19:22 2010
From: rgraf at bellatlantic.net (Rick Graf)
Date: Fri, 09 Jul 2010 19:19:22 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311
In-Reply-To: <001e01cb1fba$75c5b360$61511a20$@net>
References: <mailman.28326.1278713891.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
	<001e01cb1fba$75c5b360$61511a20$@net>
Message-ID: <4C37AE7A.7000802@bellatlantic.net>

I think they go later than that.  I'm the third owner of #304, which is 
largely unmolested, and it's got a black dash.



John Stithem wrote:

>The black dashes were used in the early Tiger's. The exact number is in
>question. I have had 2 early Tigers--one vin# 254 which I still own and it
>has an original black dash, another Tiger that was stolen in 1980 vin# 263
>and it also had an original black dash. TBON states the black dash stopped
>somewhere around vin# 256---which leads to the statement "The exact number
>is in question". 
>But we don't really know what the Tiger builders did at Rootes. They may
>have sent out a number of Tigers with wood dashes, discovered they had one
>black dash left and put it on a Tiger out of order. We have seen stranger
>things than that show up on these Tigers when trying to figure out when and
>why they did something to the cars.
>
>If your vin# is before 263--it could have an original black dash and if you
>want to keep it original----don't give up the dash. If your vin# is larger
>than 264---it is probably a transplanted dash from an Alpine.
>
>John
>
>
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
>To: Tiger List <tigers at autox.team.net>,
>	"tigers-bounces at autox.team.net"	<tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>, Dan
>	Fitzgerald <tigerdan at cavtel.net>, 	awtiger at cox.net
>Message-ID: <870637.51036.qm at web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>whats the story on black dashes?  was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one
>tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe
>it
>was?
>
>--- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger at cox.net <awtiger at cox.net> wrote:
>
>
>271.1.1/2989 - Release Date: 07/08/10 23:36:00
>_______________________________________________
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rgraf at bellatlantic.net

From s_ralsten at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  9 18:29:35 2010
From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 17:29:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311
In-Reply-To: <001e01cb1fba$75c5b360$61511a20$@net>
Message-ID: <403322.90501.qm@web120103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Maybe he'll chime in here but when I was shopping for a Tiger Norm told me the
"first 400"
had black dash and I think he said contrasting stripe upholstry. Not sure
about the upholstry but certain about the 400 remark because one car I was
looking at had black dash.
 
Steve

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, John Stithem <mai65tai at sonic.net> wrote:


From: John Stithem <mai65tai at sonic.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 311
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Friday, July 9, 2010, 4:00 PM


The black dashes were used in the early Tiger's. The exact number is in
question. I have had 2 early Tigers--one vin# 254 which I still own and it
has an original black dash, another Tiger that was stolen in 1980 vin# 263
and it also had an original black dash. TBON states the black dash stopped
somewhere around vin# 256---which leads to the statement "The exact number
is in question".
But we don't really know what the Tiger builders did at Rootes. They may
have sent out a number of Tigers with wood dashes, discovered they had one
black dash left and put it on a Tiger out of order. We have seen stranger
things than that show up on these Tigers when trying to figure out when and
why they did something to the cars.

If your vin# is before 263--it could have an original black dash and if you
want to keep it original----don't give up the dash. If your vin# is larger
than 264---it is probably a transplanted dash from an Alpine.

John



Message: 3
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Peter L <laurin212 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Mk 1 for Sale
To: Tiger List <tigers at autox.team.net>,
    "tigers-bounces at autox.team.net"    <tigers-bounces at autox.team.net>, Dan
    Fitzgerald <tigerdan at cavtel.net>,     awtiger at cox.net
Message-ID: <870637.51036.qm at web53606.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

whats the story on black dashes?  was gonna swap mine out for a walnut one
tomorrow, maybe i should hold off, figured the black wasnt original, maybe
it
was?

--- On Fri, 7/9/10, awtiger at cox.net <awtiger at cox.net> wrote:


271.1.1/2989 - Release Date: 07/08/10 23:36:00
_______________________________________________
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From rande at thecia.net  Sat Jul 10 05:57:16 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 07:57:16 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Oil brands
Message-ID: <4c38601c.1ec7.0@thecia.net>

'I have no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys 

that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was better 
than  any oil they tested including their own. None of them worked for Castrol.

Just an FYI.
 
Tom  Milton'

I, too, have no dog in the oil brand fight, but my first summer job in 1967
was as gofer for a Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar
(and occasional new Ferrari, Ford GT, and 427 Cobra special order)dealer, and
the shop used Castrol exclusively. That how I got into the habit of using it.


My Tiger is engineless at this point, but my '87 BMW 325iS uses BMW 15-40(made
by Castrol), my '00 325CI coupe specifies BMW brand or Castrol Syntec(I use
the Syntec at home).

Volkswagen specifies Mobil 1 for my '07 Golf/Rabbit, and that is the one exception
I make to using Castrol. Admittedly, it has more to do with being a long term
habit for me than research. 

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sat Jul 10 06:19:47 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:19:47 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Oil brands
Message-ID: <58702.7fc59a25.3969bf63@aol.com>

I think Volkswagon and Mercedes specifying Mobile 1  has something do with 
squeaking out an extra .5 miles per gallon on mileage  tests and being able 
to offer extended  times between oil  changes.
M
 
 
In a message dated 7/10/2010 7:57:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rande at thecia.net writes:

'I have  no interest in Castrol, but in my lifetime I have met several guys 
 

that have worked in oil company labs, all fo them said Castrol was  better 
than  any oil they tested including their own. None of them  worked for 
Castrol.

Just an FYI.

Tom  Milton'

I,  too, have no dog in the oil brand fight, but my first summer job in  
1967
was as gofer for a Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar
(and occasional  new Ferrari, Ford GT, and 427 Cobra special order)dealer, 
and
the shop used  Castrol exclusively. That how I got into the habit of using 
it.


My  Tiger is engineless at this point, but my '87 BMW 325iS uses BMW  
15-40(made
by Castrol), my '00 325CI coupe specifies BMW brand or Castrol  Syntec(I use
the Syntec at home).

Volkswagen specifies Mobil 1 for  my '07 Golf/Rabbit, and that is the one 
exception
I make to using Castrol.  Admittedly, it has more to do with being a long 
term
habit for me than  research.  
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From spmdr at juno.com  Sat Jul 10 09:50:21 2010
From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:50:21 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Castrol oil
Message-ID: <20100710.085022.2444.0.spmdr@juno.com>

I used Castrol GTX 20w50 for decades until my daily ride got to the point
of using more oil

than I could find on sale.

So ( in the early '90s, I think ) I picked a cheap oil I could find at
any Wal-mart, Their SuperTech 20w50.

Low and behold, the oil consumption went DOWN, SIGNIFICANTLY!

I later heard that this house brand was really Quaker State.

Not long ago I heard the SuperTech oils have been switched from QS to
another source.

I have not noticed any effects of this rumored change.

Still using the Waly stuff, no problems...

BTW, daily ride has 682,000+ miles, and counting...

...Not much original on that jewel, anymore!

 My $.02

  DW
____________________________________________________________
Free Credit Score
A bad credit score is below 598. Click here to see yours for $0. Checking won't affect your score. By Experian&#174
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4c3896f1eed3440f04m07vuc

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul 10 19:32:24 2010
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 21:32:24 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Oil Brands
Message-ID: <4C391F28.3070904@roadrunner.com>

My '07 VW GTI specifies Castrol Syntec

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

From chris at cthompson.net  Sat Jul 10 21:11:11 2010
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 23:11:11 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-DS4535A892D575924C56260C1B50@phx.gbl>
References: <96bf2.6deaed15.39687d49@aol.com> <4C373237.9070305@cthompson.net>
	<BAY119-DS4535A892D575924C56260C1B50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C39364F.2030103@cthompson.net>

I wouldn't say that porcelain is either clever or inexpensive, Steve, 
but it *is* very different from standard ceramic.  It's main difference 
is in being *very* resistant to impact damage.  Still, I wouldn't use it 
in a heavily working garage.  But the question that started this thread 
was whether to use to interlocking rubber-like floor tiles, which I 
wouldn't use in any kind of working garage, either.  Or probably even in 
a show garage, which is what it is intended for.  Porcelain is a good (I 
think) compromise between the two.  My garage will be house a bunch of 
cars that just need maintenance, not restoration, and there's a big 
difference there in the garage environment......


Tiger Man wrote:
> Chris,
>
> I'm a big fan of inexpensive and clever solutions, but I thought most 
> ceramic and porcelain tiles were subject to crack, break or shatter if 
> you dropped something solid on them.  I had some tile installed in my 
> bathroom, and they told me it was much more resistant to that kind of 
> breakage, but wouldn't really say how much more resistant.  I 
> personally tend to be a bit clumsy out in the shop so I was wondering 
> how big of an issue that is, or is the tile you are getting is 
> designed to take that.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve

From chris at cthompson.net  Sat Jul 10 21:23:22 2010
From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 23:23:22 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
In-Reply-To: <4C3777FF.5080501@socal.rr.com>
References: <4c370822.15ba.0@thecia.net> <4C3777FF.5080501@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4C39392A.4090504@cthompson.net>

I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current 
garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so.  
If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like 
new.  If I was so motivated ;-)

Steve Laifman wrote:
>
> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various types, or has use-tested any.
>
>
> Steve Laifman
>
> Editor
>
> http://TigersUnited.com

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 11 06:11:51 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 07:11:51 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?flooring?=
Message-ID: <20100711121047.1840618764C@autox.team.net>

I used the rustoleum two part epoxy for my floor. The main thing about a painted floor is prep. Otherwise, the paint will pop loose no matter the brand.
Be sure to completely clean and seal the floor before etching and painting. 
Then enjoy. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Chris Thompson" <chris at cthompson.net>
Date: Sat, Jul 10, 2010 22:11
Subject: [Tigers] flooring
To: "Tiger Man" <Tigerman67 at hotmail.com>
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>


I wouldn't say that porcelain is either clever or inexpensive, Steve, but it *is* very different from standard ceramic.  It's main difference is in being *very* resistant to impact damage.  Still, I wouldn't use it in a heavily working garage.  But the question that started this thread was whether to use to interlocking rubber-like floor tiles, which I wouldn't use in any kind of working garage, either.  Or probably even in a show garage, which is what it is intended for.  Porcelain is a good (I think) compromise between the two.  My garage will be house a bunch of cars that just need maintenance, not restoration, and there's a big difference there in the garage environment......


Tiger Man wrote:
> Chris,
>
> I'm a big fan of inexpensive and clever solutions, but I thought most > ceramic and porcelain tiles were subject to crack, break or shatter if > you dropped something solid on them.  I had some tile installed in my > bathroom, and they told me it was much more resistant to that kind of > breakage, but wouldn't really say how much more resistant.  I > personally tend to be a bit clumsy out in the shop so I was wondering > how big of an issue that is, or is the tile you are getting is > designed to take that.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From mmichels at socal.rr.com  Sun Jul 11 16:02:19 2010
From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 15:02:19 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required
In-Reply-To: <6f160.1f3865c8.39635958@aol.com>
References: <6f160.1f3865c8.39635958@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006701cb2144$bbfdb450$33f91cf0$@rr.com>

Another option is the lower radiator hose spring for Mustangs sold by
National Parts Depot. 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carmods at aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 8:51 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Lower Hose Spring is Required

This  is a repeat of a tech tip is send in about a year and a half ago.  
A  spring in the lower hose is defiantly required. If a car suddenly 
overheats  as the rpm goes up with vehicle speed, the problem is probably
caused 
by  the collapsing of the lower hose when the pump inlet pressure goes  
negative. 
For  some reason, some hose suppliers have quit supplying the springs in 
lower hoses,  probably some low cost un-American supplier. I  found that a  
"Rainbird/Toro"  impulse lawn sprinkler has a stainless spring that works  
great. The spring can be twisted if necessary to make it  tight. You can buy
a 
sprinkler head for about $16.00 and it's worth it just  to find a stainless 
spring.  
John  Logan
_______________________________________________
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From ora_archy at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 11 17:31:02 2010
From: ora_archy at yahoo.com (Brian Glenn)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 16:31:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping
Message-ID: <850653.78980.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Friends,
 
I bought a Mk1 last year.  Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V and
I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both.
 
I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA and
was hoping for some references and advice.
 
Thanks,
Brian Glenn
B9472615

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sun Jul 11 18:02:08 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:02:08 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping
Message-ID: <54d67.38660851.396bb580@aol.com>

I had one shipped from Calif. to Vermont.  It was  attached at the 
engine/frame  mounting holes to a pretty cheap 2 piece  engine stand. Each piece of 
the stand was bolted to a pallet and the whole thing  wrapped in plastic. 
Shipped common carrier freight and arrived in perfect  condition. (no 
accessories attached except intake).
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/11/2010 7:31:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ora_archy at yahoo.com writes:

Friends,

I bought a Mk1 last year.  Doug Jennings drove  it out from Ohio to SUNI V 
and
I drove it home to San Diego from there;  quite an adventure for us both.

I'm looking to ship the original engine  from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA 
and
was hoping for some references and  advice.

Thanks,
Brian  Glenn
B9472615
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
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From CoolVT at aol.com  Sun Jul 11 18:02:27 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:02:27 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping
Message-ID: <54d99.7f70f0c4.396bb593@aol.com>

I had one shipped from Calif. to Vermont.  It was  attached at the 
engine/frame  mounting holes to a pretty cheap 2 piece  engine stand. Each piece of 
the stand was bolted to a pallet and the whole thing  wrapped in plastic. 
Shipped common carrier freight and arrived in perfect  condition. (no 
accessories attached except intake).
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/11/2010 7:31:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ora_archy at yahoo.com writes:

Friends,

I bought a Mk1 last year.  Doug Jennings drove  it out from Ohio to SUNI V 
and
I drove it home to San Diego from there;  quite an adventure for us both.

I'm looking to ship the original engine  from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA 
and
was hoping for some references and  advice.

Thanks,
Brian  Glenn
B9472615
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Sun Jul 11 18:16:49 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:16:49 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please!
In-Reply-To: <4C39392A.4090504@cthompson.net>
Message-ID: <C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Hello all.  I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this
weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember.  Unfortunately, I've
run into a problem.  I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the
car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough
to install the fourth bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!

As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt.  Then I
tried to install either of the driver side bolts.  No way.  The holes do not
match up. I tried everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
bounced on it.  No luck.   Half of the hole is blocked by the frame.  So, to
stabilize it for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger side.
Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static
display in my garage, not a drivable car.

I am trying to figure out what to do.  The idea that I keep returning to is
to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to
line up the holes.  Does anyone know how to do that?  I was considering
putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator
will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there
that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted between
the rails to spread them.  Does anyone know what I should do and where I can
get the needed tool, if any is actually needed?

Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice.  M


On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" <chris at cthompson.net> wrote:

> I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current
> garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so.
> If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like
> new.  If I was so motivated ;-)
> 
> Steve Laifman wrote:
>> 
>> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various
>> types, or has use-tested any.
>> 
>> 
>> Steve Laifman
>> 
>> Editor
>> 
>> http://TigersUnited.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net  Sun Jul 11 18:47:11 2010
From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 17:47:11 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping
References: <850653.78980.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <66B52A34D1DD4A549D2819A11F2B99BE@your4dacd0ea75>

Hi Brian,

About two years ago I shipped a complete Ford NASCAR race motor from 
Charlotte to Los Angeles via Forward Air "terminal to terminal"

The complete motor was inside a purpose built plastic engine shipping crate. 
This was strapped to a pallet. The accessories (including headers) were 
boxed and placed on the pallet and the whole batch was strapped and shrink 
wrapped. It made it out here in just a couple days and the price was about 
$500. One weird thing was that they require payment at the shipping end. 
They would not allow me to pay for it in Los Angeles.

At the Forward Air Terminal, a forklift driver gently placed it in the back 
of my pick-up. The whole operation was very sweet.

I wouldn't expect yours to cost as much since the distance is probably a 
good deal shorter and diesel was very high back then.

I also looked at U-Ship where I might have been able to money but used 
Forward Air because they run off a schedule and we only had a couple days to 
ship the engine off to a race.

good luck.

Buck Trippel


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Glenn" <ora_archy at yahoo.com>
To: <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 4:31 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping


> Friends,
>
> I bought a Mk1 last year.  Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V 
> and
> I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both.
>
> I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA 
> and
> was hoping for some references and advice.
>
> Thanks,
> Brian Glenn
> B9472615
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bucktrippel at verizon.net

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sun Jul 11 18:54:14 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (atwittsend at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 19:54:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
Message-ID: <15961476.266135.1278896054071.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net>

It has been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was that I elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt in.
Tom

From CoolVT at aol.com  Sun Jul 11 19:06:46 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:06:46 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
Message-ID: <576d4.4f6f6fc8.396bc4a6@aol.com>

Most past replies had been to put a block of wood and  a jack under the oil 
pan and lift the engine slightly.
M
 
 
In a message dated 7/11/2010 8:58:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
atwittsend at verizon.net writes:

It has  been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was 
that I  elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt  
in.
Tom
_______________________________________________
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From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Sun Jul 11 19:29:55 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:29:55 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <576d4.4f6f6fc8.396bc4a6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C85FE853.3E7A%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

I tried lifting the car from under the crossmember, hoping the weight of the
engine would cause the frame rails to spread apart a bit, but I did not try
to lift from under the oil pan.  Because the crossmember is not at all
bolted on the driver's side, wouldn't the effect be just to separate the
body from the crossmember?  Is there any way to spread the frame rails with
some sort of scissor jack or something to push them outward from the inside
surfaces?  My scissor jack from my Jeep is way to short...  Any ideas?
Thanks!  M


On 7/11/10 9:06 PM, "CoolVT at aol.com" <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:

> Most past replies had been to put a block of wood and  a jack under the oil
> pan and lift the engine slightly.
> M
>  
>  
> In a message dated 7/11/2010 8:58:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> atwittsend at verizon.net writes:
> 
> It has  been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was
> that I  elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt
> in.
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From twotigers at verizon.net  Sun Jul 11 22:05:11 2010
From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:05:11 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <4C39392A.4090504@cthompson.net>
	<C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <000001cb2177$6cccb150$466613f0$@net>

Maybe something like this would work.  I have it installed in the trunk of
my Tiger to cut down on cowl shake.  Don't ask me where I got it- my Dad
gave it to me.  Someone that specializes in truck accessories would probably
have one.  Screw it one way to expand the bar, screw it the other way to
make it smaller.  There is some adjustability on the ends.  You'd just have
to find one that was in the ballpark for the frame rails.

  http://tinypic.com/r/2aenxoj/3

Kirk

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 5:17 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please!

Hello all.  I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this
weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember.  Unfortunately, I've
run into a problem.  I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the
car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough
to install the fourth bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!

As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt.  Then I
tried to install either of the driver side bolts.  No way.  The holes do not
match up. I tried everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
bounced on it.  No luck.   Half of the hole is blocked by the frame.  So, to
stabilize it for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger side.
Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static
display in my garage, not a drivable car.

I am trying to figure out what to do.  The idea that I keep returning to is
to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to
line up the holes.  Does anyone know how to do that?  I was considering
putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator
will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there
that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted between
the rails to spread them.  Does anyone know what I should do and where I can
get the needed tool, if any is actually needed?

Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice.  M


On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" <chris at cthompson.net> wrote:

> I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current
> garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so.
> If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like
> new.  If I was so motivated ;-)
> 
> Steve Laifman wrote:
>> 
>> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various
>> types, or has use-tested any.
>> 
>> 
>> Steve Laifman
>> 
>> Editor
>> 
>> http://TigersUnited.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From derek at RossRacing.com  Sun Jul 11 22:25:38 2010
From: derek at RossRacing.com (Derek Ross)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:25:38 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Engine shipping
Message-ID: <mailman.28655.1278907465.914.tigers@autox.team.net>

Met the principles of this company at the Pri show a few years ago - seemed like they "get it" ...

http://racedrive.com/dir/links/performance_plus-10736.html

Hope that might help ...

Derek

From e.coiner at cox.net  Sun Jul 11 22:34:40 2010
From: e.coiner at cox.net (e.coiner at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:34:40 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <20100712003440.W6WZ8.1099676.imail@fed1rmwml37>

I used a hydraulic "jaws of life" kit that my good friend bought from Harbor Freight.

A bottle jack and a 4x4 cut to the correct length might work as well.


---- "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote: 
> Hello all.  I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this
> weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember.  Unfortunately, I've
> run into a problem.  I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the
> car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough
> to install the fourth bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!
> 
> As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt.  Then I
> tried to install either of the driver side bolts.  No way.  The holes do not
> match up. I tried everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
> bounced on it.  No luck.   Half of the hole is blocked by the frame.  So, to
> stabilize it for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger side.
> Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static
> display in my garage, not a drivable car.
> 
> I am trying to figure out what to do.  The idea that I keep returning to is
> to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to
> line up the holes.  Does anyone know how to do that?  I was considering
> putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator
> will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there
> that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted between
> the rails to spread them.  Does anyone know what I should do and where I can
> get the needed tool, if any is actually needed?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice.  M
> 
> 
> On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" <chris at cthompson.net> wrote:
> 
> > I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current
> > garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so.
> > If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like
> > new.  If I was so motivated ;-)
> > 
> > Steve Laifman wrote:
> >> 
> >> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the various
> >> types, or has use-tested any.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Steve Laifman
> >> 
> >> Editor
> >> 
> >> http://TigersUnited.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net

From e.coiner at cox.net  Sun Jul 11 22:37:22 2010
From: e.coiner at cox.net (e.coiner at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:37:22 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping
In-Reply-To: <850653.78980.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100712003722.LET2N.1099699.imail@fed1rmwml37>

I recently bought an engine on line from www.automotix.com.  It was shipped to me via Estes trucking. It could have been delivered to my home or office, but it worked out better to have it delivered to their terminal. They placed it in the back of a pickup truck with a forklift.  The engine was strapped to a wooden pallet and shrink wrapped.  It arrived in fine condition.


---- Brian Glenn <ora_archy at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Friends,
>  
> I bought a Mk1 last year.  Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V and
> I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both.
>  
> I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA and
> was hoping for some references and advice.
>  
> Thanks,
> Brian Glenn
> B9472615
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net

From allfudge1635 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 22:55:43 2010
From: allfudge1635 at gmail.com (allfudge1635 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 04:55:43 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease!
In-Reply-To: <C85FE853.3E7A%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <576d4.4f6f6fc8.396bc4a6@aol.com><C85FE853.3E7A%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.16.1278910497.911.tigers@autox.team.net>

I can think of a couple of options. The cheapest is to get some right and left hand thread all thread rod with a few compatible nuts, and a length of 3/4 inch black iron pipe (or two). Weld one right hand and one left hand nut into the ends of the pipe(s), insert appropriate lengths of all thread into the pipe and use this as a "spreader". Rotating the pipe one way forces the all thread out, and the other way retract. I made my door bars like this for use on the rotisserie. You might want to add some sort of pad to the end of each rod at the point of contact with the frame rails. The other option I can think of is a hydraulic ram, which costs considerably more.
Sent on the Sprint. Now Network from my BlackBerry.

-----Original Message-----
From: "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous at verizon.net>
Sender: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:29:55 
To: <CoolVT at aol.com>; <atwittsend at verizon.net>; <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!

I tried lifting the car from under the crossmember, hoping the weight of the
engine would cause the frame rails to spread apart a bit, but I did not try
to lift from under the oil pan.  Because the crossmember is not at all
bolted on the driver's side, wouldn't the effect be just to separate the
body from the crossmember?  Is there any way to spread the frame rails with
some sort of scissor jack or something to push them outward from the inside
surfaces?  My scissor jack from my Jeep is way to short...  Any ideas?
Thanks!  M


On 7/11/10 9:06 PM, "CoolVT at aol.com" <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:

> Most past replies had been to put a block of wood and  a jack under the oil
> pan and lift the engine slightly.
> M
>  
>  
> In a message dated 7/11/2010 8:58:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> atwittsend at verizon.net writes:
> 
> It has  been some time, but I recall the same issues. My recollection was
> that I  elongated the holes in the crossmember (equally) to get it to bolt
> in.
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allfudge1635 at gmail.com

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Sun Jul 11 23:33:35 2010
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 01:33:35 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping
Message-ID: <b9989.23b77ec4.396c032f@aol.com>

I ship parts and large boxes all over the world. I use U-ship (it's a lot  
like ebay, companied bid on you freight) I also found a company out of PA 
that I  use an awful lot lately, LDM International. They are real good for 
long  distances. They broker the freight out to UPS & Fedex and other brand 
name  carriers. SEKO Intl has also been real good for domestic & intl  shipping.
Tom
 
 
In a message dated 7/11/2010 11:37:37 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
e.coiner at cox.net writes:

I  recently bought an engine on line from www.automotix.com.  It was 
shipped  to me via Estes trucking. It could have been delivered to my home or 
office,  but it worked out better to have it delivered to their terminal. They 
placed  it in the back of a pickup truck with a forklift.  The engine was  
strapped to a wooden pallet and shrink wrapped.  It arrived in fine  condition.


---- Brian Glenn <ora_archy at yahoo.com> wrote:  
> Friends,
>  
> I bought a Mk1 last year.  Doug  Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI 
V and
> I drove it home to San  Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both.
>  
> I'm  looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego 
CA  and
> was hoping for some references and advice.
>  
>  Thanks,
> Brian Glenn
> B9472615
>  _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gyroplanes at aol.com

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Sun Jul 11 23:40:16 2010
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 01:40:16 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Newest update on my resto Tiger project
Message-ID: <b9b71.4b96093c.396c04c0@aol.com>

I finally got my 302 apart, it is a roller cam model, very clean  inside.
 I got a bit of a start though.
When I peeled back the garbage bag I've had around it for the last 20 yrs,  
it had a 2bbl intake..... I momentarily gasped, but remembered I took the 
intake  and carb off for my Ranchero when I ordered the Performer & Holley.
I must have set the 260 intake on it to keep the mice out.
 
I'll probably plastigauge the rods & main for piece of mind. Everything  
looks clean and very low miles.
 
I noticed it has an aluminum oil pump body, is this an aftermarket?  I  
thought I remember my many Fords all having cast iron pumps?
 
Thanks in advance,
Making progress  

Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger  project
B382000257

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 12 00:08:33 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 23:08:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <20100712003440.W6WZ8.1099676.imail@fed1rmwml37>
Message-ID: <327744.58084.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Good idea IMO.
TtT

--- On Sun, 7/11/10, e.coiner at cox.net <e.coiner at cox.net> wrote:


From: e.coiner at cox.net <e.coiner at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
Please!
To: "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous at verizon.net>, tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, July 11, 2010, 11:34 PM


I used a hydraulic "jaws of life" kit that my good friend bought from Harbor
Freight.

A bottle jack and a 4x4 cut to the correct length might work as well.


---- "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:
> Hello all.  I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this
> weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember.  Unfortunately, I've
> run into a problem.  I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the
> car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough
> to install the fourth bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!
>
> As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt.  Then I
> tried to install either of the driver side bolts.  No way.  The holes do
not
> match up. I tried everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
> bounced on it.  No luck.   Half of the hole is blocked by the frame.  So,
to
> stabilize it for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger side.
> Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static
> display in my garage, not a drivable car.
>
> I am trying to figure out what to do.  The idea that I keep returning to is
> to find some way to spread the frame rails the 1/4 to 1/2 inch necessary to
> line up the holes.  Does anyone know how to do that?  I was considering
> putting some kind of tall jack in between the rails near where the radiator
> will go. In my mind's eye, I imagine there is some sort of tool out there
> that would work; some sort of thing that can be screwed or ratcheted
between
> the rails to spread them.  Does anyone know what I should do and where I
can
> get the needed tool, if any is actually needed?
>
> Thanks in advance for your invaluable advice.  M
>
>
> On 7/10/10 11:23 PM, "Chris Thompson" <chris at cthompson.net> wrote:
>
> > I used the 2-part epoxy from Sherwin-Williams on the floor of my current
> > garage, and have been very happy with it over the past 10 years or so.
> > If I was so motivated, I could probably scrub it on down to looking like
> > new.  If I was so motivated ;-)
> >
> > Steve Laifman wrote:
> >>
> >> Would be more likely if a user has had actual experience with the
various
> >> types, or has use-tested any.
> >>
> >>
> >> Steve Laifman
> >>
> >> Editor
> >>
> >> http://TigersUnited.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/e.coiner at cox.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From Carmods at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 06:31:38 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 08:31:38 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
Message-ID: <7c0d7.f2b976a.396c652a@aol.com>

For  many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State motor 
oil  and Pennsylvania crude.
 
John Logan

From allanballard at att.net  Mon Jul 12 07:22:03 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 09:22:03 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
In-Reply-To: <7c0d7.f2b976a.396c652a@aol.com>
References: <7c0d7.f2b976a.396c652a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A8BF58D1-8D2E-427F-A0BF-31DBB43D4DFB@att.net>

Is there any problem using Rotella T oil?


On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods at aol.com wrote:

> For  many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State motor
> oil  and Pennsylvania crude.
>
> John Logan
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Jul 12 08:27:41 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 10:27:41 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
In-Reply-To: <A8BF58D1-8D2E-427F-A0BF-31DBB43D4DFB@att.net>
Message-ID: <7D2768A96A63484DA3362C6034DBA4F4@ronpc1>

Allan
	You have to investigate any oil these days.   All oils are reducing
the amount of additives to comply with emissions regulations even for diesel
engines.  The labels on the bottles tell approximately the level of
additives but you need to know the label markings.   If your breaking in a
newly rebuilt engine I say always add a bottle of additives to make sure you
don't wipe a cam lobe and have to start over.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM
To: Carmods at aol.com
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil


Is there any problem using Rotella T oil?


On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM, Carmods at aol.com wrote:

> For  many years, there has been no relationship between Quaker State
> motor oil  and Pennsylvania crude.
>
> John Logan
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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06:36:00

From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 09:03:03 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 11:03:03 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
Message-ID: <2451c.1da65715.396c88a7@aol.com>

Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt  engines?  Many of the modern 
cars have no special break in oil or  instructions and the engine is under 
warranty for 100,000 miles.  Are the  new engines that much better?
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rfraser at bluefrog.com writes:

Allan
You have to investigate any oil these  days.   All oils are reducing
the amount of additives to comply  with emissions regulations even for 
diesel
engines.  The labels on the  bottles tell approximately the level of
additives but you need to know the  label markings.   If your breaking in a
newly rebuilt engine I  say always add a bottle of additives to make sure 
you
don't wipe a cam lobe  and have to start over.

Ron Fraser

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent:  Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM
To: Carmods at aol.com
Cc:  tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil


Is there any  problem using Rotella T oil?


On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM,  Carmods at aol.com wrote:

> For  many years, there has been no  relationship between Quaker State
> motor oil  and Pennsylvania  crude.
>
> John Logan
>  _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
_______________________________________________
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No  virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG -  www.avg.com
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 12 10:44:32 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 11:44:32 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Oil?=
Message-ID: <20100712164326.D6429187643@autox.team.net>

More tightly controlled clearances.   And advanced engineering.  Things haven't stood still since 66!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: CoolVT at aol.com
Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 10:03
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
To: <rfraser at bluefrog.com>, <allanballard at att.net>, <Carmods at aol.com>
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>


Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt  engines?  Many of the modern 
cars have no special break in oil or  instructions and the engine is under 
warranty for 100,000 miles.  Are the  new engines that much better?
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rfraser at bluefrog.com writes:

Allan
You have to investigate any oil these  days.   All oils are reducing
the amount of additives to comply  with emissions regulations even for 
diesel
engines.  The labels on the  bottles tell approximately the level of
additives but you need to know the  label markings.   If your breaking in a
newly rebuilt engine I  say always add a bottle of additives to make sure 
you
don't wipe a cam lobe  and have to start over.

Ron Fraser

-----Original  Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent:  Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM
To: Carmods at aol.com
Cc:  tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil


Is there any  problem using Rotella T oil?


On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM,  Carmods at aol.com wrote:

> For  many years, there has been no  relationship between Quaker State
> motor oil  and Pennsylvania  crude.
>
> John Logan
>  _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
_______________________________________________
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No  virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG -  www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2991 - Release Date:  07/12/10
06:36:00
_______________________________________________
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 12 12:28:47 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 13:28:47 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Oil?=
Message-ID: <20100712182742.1E91718763E@autox.team.net>

How so?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Rob Bernardino" <crbernardino at me.com>
Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 11:58
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
To: "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
Cc: <CoolVT at aol.com>, <rfraser at bluefrog.com>, <allanballard at att.net>, <Carmods at aol.com>, <tigers at autox.team.net>


Auto makers break-in cars for us.
Rob

On Jul 12, 2010, at 12:44 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:

> More tightly controlled clearances.   And advanced engineering.  Things haven't stood still since 66!
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
> 
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: CoolVT at aol.com
> Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 10:03
> Subject: [Tigers] Oil
> To: <rfraser at bluefrog.com>, <allanballard at att.net>, <Carmods at aol.com>
> Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
> 
> 
> Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt  engines?  Many of the modern 
> cars have no special break in oil or  instructions and the engine is under 
> warranty for 100,000 miles.  Are the  new engines that much better?
> Mark
> 
> 
> In a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> rfraser at bluefrog.com writes:
> 
> Allan
> You have to investigate any oil these  days.   All oils are reducing
> the amount of additives to comply  with emissions regulations even for 
> diesel
> engines.  The labels on the  bottles tell approximately the level of
> additives but you need to know the  label markings.   If your breaking in a
> newly rebuilt engine I  say always add a bottle of additives to make sure 
> you
> don't wipe a cam lobe  and have to start over.
> 
> Ron Fraser
> 
> -----Original  Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent:  Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM
> To: Carmods at aol.com
> Cc:  tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil
> 
> 
> Is there any  problem using Rotella T oil?
> 
> 
> On Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM,  Carmods at aol.com wrote:
> 
>> For  many years, there has been no  relationship between Quaker State
>> motor oil  and Pennsylvania  crude.
>> 
>> John Logan
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Mon Jul 12 14:04:36 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 16:04:36 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
In-Reply-To: <20100712112835.BC550020@dm0218.mta.everyone.net>
Message-ID: <CE8AFF37F6B54FF6880E73868D624711@ronpc1>

When I worked a summer job at a GM engine plant back in the 70's, they ran
every engine for a given amount of time on propane, I believe.   I was too
busy to note the length of time or the exact procedure.   I'm sure it is no
different today.
 
Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: spook01 at comcast.net [mailto:spook01 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 2:29 PM
To: Rob Bernardino
Cc: CoolVT at aol.com; rfraser at bluefrog.com; allanballard at att.net;
Carmods at aol.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil


How so?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Rob Bernardino" <crbernardino at me.com>
Date: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 11:58
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
To: "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
Cc: <CoolVT at aol.com>, <rfraser at bluefrog.com>, <allanballard at att.net>,
<Carmods at aol.com>, <tigers at autox.team.net>


Auto makers break-in cars for us.
Rob

From rab65tiger at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 18:12:15 2010
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:12:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <8CCF0372EED98BB-1260-2B6D@webmail-d015.sysops.aol.com>

A porta power may help, and probably be rented,borrowed, or purchased from
numerous tool companies.  Northern tool, harbor freight, eastwood, speedway,
local tool shops.





http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-heavy-duty-portable-hydraulic-equipment-ki
t-44899.html
Harbor fright low qaulity, but may do the trick, easy to over push.....
Randy B

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Mon Jul 12 18:16:59 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 19:16:59 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <4C39392A.4090504@cthompson.net>,
	<C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be
prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame measurement
chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the two is
actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and opened up
front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct than the
rear set).

Jacking the chassis rails to fit the crossmember might be the easy way to make
things bolt in, but if you're out by over 1/2" then you have little guarantee
that the spread you're introducing is even on both sides.

Cheers,
Theo
________________________________________
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Would U. Believe [mcdangerous at verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please!

Hello all.  I have installed the 289 engine and transmission over this
weekend and have tried to reinstall the crossmember.  Unfortunately, I've
run into a problem.  I expected to be able to install three bolts, set the
car down, causing the weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough
to install the fourth bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!

As it turns out, I first installed the passenger side forward bolt.  Then I
tried to install either of the driver side bolts.  No way.  The holes do not
match up. I tried everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
bounced on it.  No luck.   Half of the hole is blocked by the frame.  So, to
stabilize it for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger side.
Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice static
display in my garage, not a drivable car.

<snip>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
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use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
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any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
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Thank you for your cooperation.

From rab65tiger at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 18:31:15 2010
From: rab65tiger at aol.com (rab65tiger at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:31:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Oil
In-Reply-To: <2451c.1da65715.396c88a7@aol.com>
References: <2451c.1da65715.396c88a7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CCF039D6281201-3764-491C@Webmail-d117.sysops.aol.com>

Newer engines I believe are all roller cams, I do not think you can get a new
car with a flat tappet cam.  What I have read is two resons, superior qaulity
design aspects of roller cam operation, and roller cams required, because smog
requirements, to reduce emissions many additives being regulated out of oil.
Internet information, not sure how accurate.  I have seen several people wipe
out flat tappet cams in short order, especially at break in, and new
installs.

RB





-----Original Message-----
From: CoolVT at aol.com
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; allanballard at att.net; Carmods at aol.com
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Jul 12, 2010 8:03 am
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Oil


Are we talking mainly about older, rebuilt  engines?  Many of the modern
ars have no special break in oil or  instructions and the engine is under
arranty for 100,000 miles.  Are the  new engines that much better?
ark


n a message dated 7/12/2010 10:39:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
fraser at bluefrog.com writes:
Allan
ou have to investigate any oil these  days.   All oils are reducing
he amount of additives to comply  with emissions regulations even for
iesel
ngines.  The labels on the  bottles tell approximately the level of
dditives but you need to know the  label markings.   If your breaking in a
ewly rebuilt engine I  say always add a bottle of additives to make sure
ou
on't wipe a cam lobe  and have to start over.
Ron Fraser
-----Original  Message-----
rom: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
n Behalf Of Allan Ballard
ent:  Monday, July 12, 2010 9:22 AM
o: Carmods at aol.com
c:  tigers at autox.team.net
ubject: Re: [Tigers] Oil

s there any  problem using Rotella T oil?

n Jul 12, 2010, at 8:31 AM,  Carmods at aol.com wrote:
> For  many years, there has been no  relationship between Quaker State
 motor oil  and Pennsylvania  crude.

 John Logan
  _______________________________________________
  Tigers at autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
______________________________________________
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No  virus found in this incoming message.
hecked by AVG -  www.avg.com
ersion: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2991 - Release Date:  07/12/10
6:36:00
______________________________________________
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From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Mon Jul 12 18:50:47 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:50:47 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <4C39392A.4090504@cthompson.net>
	<C85FD731.3E6F%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinnwCw0bPuPSSCyLYP5Zl2ooQYqMfgh_CQOSr9r@mail.gmail.com>

On 13 July 2010 10:16, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:

> If the crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be
> prudent to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame
> measurement
> chart that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the two is
> actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and opened
> up
> front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct than the
> rear set).


Theo,

A good point, as we all know the front cross members are prone to cracks,
sagging etc, when bolted to the car they will stay connected, once removed
if its no longer in true then it will be hard to get it back in.

There was some measurements a while back for the tower to tower and cross
dimensions to check the front suspension. The other thing is when the front
end is out its prudent to brace the shock woers and fulcrum pins.



-- 
Regards

Michael King

From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 19:00:30 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:00:30 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
Message-ID: <8cfbe.661224e0.396d14ae@aol.com>

I wonder if it's possible that using bad engine mounts  could be pulling 
the frame in?  By any chance have you tried loosening the  mounts?
Mark
 
 
In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:45:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Theo.Smit at dynastream.com writes:

If the  crossmember and chassis are that different then it would seem to be
prudent  to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame 
measurement
chart  that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the two  is
actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and  opened 
up
front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct  than the
rear set).

Jacking the chassis rails to fit the crossmember  might be the easy way to 
make
things bolt in, but if you're out by over  1/2" then you have little 
guarantee
that the spread you're introducing is  even on both  sides.

Cheers,
Theo
________________________________________
From:  tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf
Of  Would U. Believe [mcdangerous at verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16  PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation  Headache: Advice Needed Please!

Hello all.  I have installed the  289 engine and transmission over this
weekend and have tried to reinstall  the crossmember.  Unfortunately, I've
run into a problem.  I  expected to be able to install three bolts, set the
car down, causing the  weight of the engine to spread the frame rails enough
to install the fourth  bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!

As it turns out, I first installed the  passenger side forward bolt.  Then I
tried to install either of the  driver side bolts.  No way.  The holes do 
not
match up. I tried  everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
bounced on  it.  No luck.   Half of the hole is blocked by the frame.   So, 
to
stabilize it for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger  side.
Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice  static
display in my garage, not a drivable  car.

<snip>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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---
This  e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the  
sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,  
please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this  e-mail 
or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in  error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you  for your  cooperation.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 12 19:23:41 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 18:23:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <8cfbe.661224e0.396d14ae@aol.com>
References: <8cfbe.661224e0.396d14ae@aol.com>
Message-ID: <549545.63793.qm@web111604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

This happened to me when I dropped my cross member.
As I noted, I jacked the
LAT oil pan up just enough to
take up the engine weight. Its the engine weight
that is
causing problems.  Once unweighted, all be cross 
member bolts went in
with out issue

Dave




________________________________
From:
"CoolVT at aol.com" <CoolVT at aol.com>
To: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com;
mcdangerous at verizon.net; tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, July 12, 2010
9:00:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice
Needed Please!

I wonder if it's possible that using bad engine mounts  could
be pulling 
the frame in?  By any chance have you tried loosening the  mounts?
Mark


In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:45:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
Theo.Smit at dynastream.com writes:

If the  crossmember and chassis are that
different then it would seem to be
prudent  to measure both sets of holes,
compare against the frame 
measurement
chart  that's in the Tiger shop manual,
and figure out which of the two  is
actually out of spec. My crossmember
turned out to be flattened and  opened 
up
front to back (i.e. the front set
of holes were closer to correct  than the
rear set).

Jacking the chassis
rails to fit the crossmember  might be the easy way to 
make
things bolt in,
but if you're out by over  1/2" then you have little 
guarantee
that the
spread you're introducing is  even on both  sides.

Cheers,
Theo
________________________________________
From:  tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
[tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf
Of  Would U. Believe
[mcdangerous at verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16  PM
To:
tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation  Headache:
Advice Needed Please!

Hello all.  I have installed the  289 engine and
transmission over this
weekend and have tried to reinstall  the crossmember. 
Unfortunately, I've
run into a problem.  I  expected to be able to install
three bolts, set the
car down, causing the  weight of the engine to spread the
frame rails enough
to install the fourth  bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!

As it
turns out, I first installed the  passenger side forward bolt.  Then I
tried
to install either of the  driver side bolts.  No way.  The holes do 
not
match
up. I tried  everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
bounced on 
it.  No luck.  Half of the hole is blocked by the frame.  So, 
to
stabilize it
for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger  side.
Obviously, I have to
figure something out here or I have a nice  static
display in my garage, not a
drivable  car.

<snip>
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please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use
of this  e-mail 
or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this
e-mail in  error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you 
for your  cooperation.
_______________________________________________
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From jim at island.net  Mon Jul 12 19:29:57 2010
From: jim at island.net (Jim)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 18:29:57 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <8cfbe.661224e0.396d14ae@aol.com>
References: <8cfbe.661224e0.396d14ae@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A9DDAFEB-5E21-4CF6-A5E2-7E362D1E8F73@island.net>

That's what I would do... Loosen all the mounts and 'hang' the  
motor... Then get the damn cross member bolted in . The motor mounts  
are a lot more forgiving ! Don't forget to put 'safety' bolts in the  
mounts! See the great article on Tigers United called '350 Lunati  
stroker' about that one...

Jim
B382000446



Sent from my iPhone

On 2010-07-12, at 6:00 PM, CoolVT at aol.com wrote:

> I wonder if it's possible that using bad engine mounts  could be  
> pulling
> the frame in?  By any chance have you tried loosening the  mounts?
> Mark
>
>
> In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:45:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> Theo.Smit at dynastream.com writes:
>
> If the  crossmember and chassis are that different then it would  
> seem to be
> prudent  to measure both sets of holes, compare against the frame
> measurement
> chart  that's in the Tiger shop manual, and figure out which of the  
> two  is
> actually out of spec. My crossmember turned out to be flattened and   
> opened
> up
> front to back (i.e. the front set of holes were closer to correct   
> than the
> rear set).
>
> Jacking the chassis rails to fit the crossmember  might be the easy  
> way to
> make
> things bolt in, but if you're out by over  1/2" then you have little
> guarantee
> that the spread you're introducing is  even on both  sides.
>
> Cheers,
> Theo
> ________________________________________
> From:  tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf
> Of  Would U. Believe [mcdangerous at verizon.net]
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:16  PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation  Headache: Advice Needed  
> Please!
>
> Hello all.  I have installed the  289 engine and transmission over  
> this
> weekend and have tried to reinstall  the crossmember.   
> Unfortunately, I've
> run into a problem.  I  expected to be able to install three bolts,  
> set the
> car down, causing the  weight of the engine to spread the frame  
> rails enough
> to install the fourth  bolt.  Ah, were it so easy!
>
> As it turns out, I first installed the  passenger side forward  
> bolt.  Then I
> tried to install either of the  driver side bolts.  No way.  The  
> holes do
> not
> match up. I tried  everything for hours.  I set the car down, and even
> bounced on  it.  No luck.   Half of the hole is blocked by the  
> frame.   So,
> to
> stabilize it for now,  installed the rear bolt on the passenger  side.
> Obviously, I have to figure something out here or I have a nice   
> static
> display in my garage, not a drivable  car.
>
> <snip>
> --- 
> --- 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
> ---
> This  e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material  
> for the
> sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this   
> e-mail
> or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in   
> error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you  for your  cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim at island.net

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Mon Jul 12 19:30:27 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:30:27 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinnwCw0bPuPSSCyLYP5Zl2ooQYqMfgh_CQOSr9r@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C86139F3.3EB4%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

> Hi all.  I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the MK2/289
six
> bolt bellhousing.  I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and the
MK1A9s
> slave cylinder, so that9s a good start.  But because the clutch fork is
> different from the older 5 bolt housing9s clutch fork, I9m wondering if the
> 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the 2609s
> part will work.    Does anyone know?  Thanks.  ( I hope that all makes some
> sense!)

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 12 19:38:47 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 21:38:47 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping
References: <850653.78980.qm@web110803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <10AF89C06EF94B0C9D987C829CD1E17D@PETERHOME>

just for a point of reference, i shipped an engine on a pallet from CT to 
Doug Jennings in OH for around $300 ish

my engine builder bolted the engine rack right onto the pallet

i dont recall which shipper he used but can check if needed

peter

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Glenn" <ora_archy at yahoo.com>
To: <Tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 7:31 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Engine Shipping


> Friends,
>
> I bought a Mk1 last year.  Doug Jennings drove it out from Ohio to SUNI V 
> and
> I drove it home to San Diego from there; quite an adventure for us both.
>
> I'm looking to ship the original engine from Cincinatti OH to San Diego CA 
> and
> was hoping for some references and advice.

From scattt at verizon.net  Mon Jul 12 20:51:55 2010
From: scattt at verizon.net (Scattt)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:51:55 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup
References: <C86139F3.3EB4%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CB762F3C73614762812CAE8650E8C99F@homef2683adebd>

The actuating rods are the same.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous at verizon.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 9:30 PM
Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup


>> Hi all.  I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the MK2/289
> six
>> bolt bellhousing.  I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and the
> MK1A9s
>> slave cylinder, so that9s a good start.  But because the clutch fork is
>> different from the older 5 bolt housing9s clutch fork, I9m wondering if 
>> the
>> 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the 
>> 2609s
>> part will work.    Does anyone know?  Thanks.  ( I hope that all makes 
>> some
>> sense!)
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/scattt at verizon.net

From Gyroplanes at aol.com  Mon Jul 12 23:46:34 2010
From: Gyroplanes at aol.com (Gyroplanes at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 01:46:34 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
Message-ID: <52564.15b3a951.396d57ba@aol.com>

Please explain this to a new guy. My engine is out, so now would be the  
time.
 
Tom  Milton
Lansing, IL.
1964 Tiger  project
B382000257

 
 
 
In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:14:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
michael.s.king at gmail.com writes:

The  other thing is when the front
end is out its prudent to brace the shock  woers and fulcrum pins  

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Tue Jul 13 04:49:30 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 06:49:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrod Setup
In-Reply-To: <615110.79861.qm@web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C861BCFA.3EBF%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Hi and thanks.  I hope you don't mind that I copy the list in the hope of
acquiring the needed info.  No, I have the original MK2 bell housing, which
is the C5DA-6394-A, as described in this article.   The bellhousings of the
MK1A and the MK2 have obvious differences in that the MK1A has a five bolt
engine attachment pattern and a narrow bolt pattern for the transmission,
and the MK2 has a six bolt engine attachment pattern and a wide arrangement
for the HEH-CF transmission.  Both have 10.5 inch clutch forks (lever arms)
(the Mk1A attaches to the bellhousing pivot with a weak looking wire clip,
and the MK2 with a stronger looking flat spring clip).

The difference that has me wondering is at the slave cylinder ends of the
two lever arms, which are different. The MK1A9s lever arm uses a unique clip
to hold the slave cylinder clutch rod to the end of the clutch fork. The MK2
(as shown in the article) has a simple conical pit in it, with no provisions
for any retaining clip.  The author of the article says, 3I9m not sure if
this [MK1A] clutch rod clip works with the [MK2] lever arm, but you may be
able to modify it.2  My questions are, since there are no provisions for a
clutch rod retaining wire clip on the MK2 arm, does this mean either that
the pushrod is different on the MK2 than it was on the MK1A, and (if not) is
there a need to use a retaining clip at all with the MK2 clutch lever arm?
If both answers are negative, then I will simply install the MK1A pushrod
into the slave cylinder and hope for the best.  Does anyone know how the MK2
setup looked?  I want to be sure about this because I can9t imagine the
disaster that would be caused by firing the pushrod out of the slave
cylinder!  Thanks in advance.  M


On 7/13/10 3:38 AM, "Gary" <maliburevue at yahoo.com> wrote:

> You may have the wrong clutch fork. You need to use the same clutch fork as
> the 5 bolt setup, at least the same length. Read the attached article to
find
> out which bellhousing and clutch fork you do have.
>
> Gary
>
> --- On Mon, 7/12/10, Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> From: Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net>
>> Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup
>> To: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Monday, July 12, 2010, 6:30 PM
>>
>>> Hi all.  I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the MK2/289
>> six
>>> bolt bellhousing.  I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and the
>> MK1A's slave cylinder, so that's a good start.  But because the clutch
fork
>> is
>>> different from the older 5 bolt housing's clutch fork, I'm wondering if
the
>>> 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the
2609s
>>> part will work. Does anyone know? Thanks. (I hope that all makes some
>>> sense!)
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> <http://us.mc332.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=Tigers at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue at yahoo.com

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 06:50:31 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 08:50:31 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <52564.15b3a951.396d57ba@aol.com>
References: <52564.15b3a951.396d57ba@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil4qvj25OV_VfZO4CvfWk24W6VD6W5Dj9HJXVHi@mail.gmail.com>

Tom,

If your cross member is out of the car you need to take two sets of
measurements: Between the towers and the bolt hole spacing. The C.A.T. Shop
Notes has the tower measurements; if you don't have a copy you need one.
Bill Graf's the parts manager, he's a good guy; they have parts even Rick
doesn't carry. You have to join to buy. The frame spec in the Tiger Workshop
manual only gives the rear bolt spacing: 22.56".

Cross member - frame bolts: Measure between the bolt holes, center to
center:
Front = 24 1/8" + / - 1/8"
Rear = 22 1/2" + / - 1/8"
The diagonal between the bolts should be about 24 1/8+

Crossmember - tower spacing - measure at the upper A Arm mounts:
Front: 30 11/16"
Rear: 28 - 28 3/16" Per C.A.T. Page F 6.

The bolt spacing tells you if the frame and cross member will mate, the
towers tells you whether you'll be able to align the front end. Again, if
you don't have the C.A.T. shop notes, you need to get a copy (in my opinion;
it's saved me more times than I care to admit.)

My Kitty had a hard life. The crossmember bolt spacing was correct but the
bolts were elongated to the outside, implying the body had been spread a
time or two; even with the bolts tight it moved. After the body rebuild the
body was a bit tighter than spec. Welding does that.

When you put the engine in - if you do it from the bottom - you need to get
the engine in position and install the crossmember before you install the
engine mounts, or with the engine mount bracket bolts loose in their frame
holes (no load from the engine on the car). Remember to remove both brake
lines before you drop the cross member. The right side line is easy to
forget!

Tom
' 67 Mark 2

On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 1:46 AM, <Gyroplanes at aol.com> wrote:

> Please explain this to a new guy. My engine is out, so now would be the
> time.
>
> Tom  Milton
> Lansing, IL.
> 1964 Tiger  project
> B382000257
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 7/12/2010 8:14:49 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> michael.s.king at gmail.com writes:
>
> The  other thing is when the front
> end is out its prudent to brace the shock  woers and fulcrum pins
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Tue Jul 13 08:48:10 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 09:48:10 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <C8613427.3EAF%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>,
	<C8613427.3EAF%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4C@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length
(the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread
which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55
degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp.
So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you
thread on those bolts with the die, the better.

Good luck,
Theo
________________________________________
From: Would U. Believe [mcdangerous at verizon.net]
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 7:05 PM
To: Smit, Theo
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
Please!

Well, as it turns out, in a short time after work, with fresh eyes and a
fresh mind, I was able to get the third bolt in and the fourth hole is lined
up.  Unfortunately, I flattened the beginning threads of the fourth bolt
yesterday and will have to use a die to freshen them (or find another bolt.




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Jul 13 09:24:30 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:24:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrod Setup
In-Reply-To: <C861BCFA.3EBF%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <442BCB2B484540E4A9FD66B071344668@ronpc1>

M

	All the part number seem to be the same from Mk I to Mk II for the
slave cylinder parts.   I always recommend you safety wire the pushrod so
just in case there is a problem you do not loose the pushrod in the middle
of nowhere.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 6:50 AM
To: Gary
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrod Setup


Hi and thanks.  I hope you don't mind that I copy the list in the hope of
acquiring the needed info.  No, I have the original MK2 bell housing, which
is the C5DA-6394-A, as described in this article.   The bellhousings of the
MK1A and the MK2 have obvious differences in that the MK1A has a five bolt
engine attachment pattern and a narrow bolt pattern for the transmission,
and the MK2 has a six bolt engine attachment pattern and a wide arrangement
for the HEH-CF transmission.  Both have 10.5 inch clutch forks (lever arms)
(the Mk1A attaches to the bellhousing pivot with a weak looking wire clip,
and the MK2 with a stronger looking flat spring clip).

The difference that has me wondering is at the slave cylinder ends of the
two lever arms, which are different. The MK1A9s lever arm uses a unique clip
to hold the slave cylinder clutch rod to the end of the clutch fork. The MK2
(as shown in the article) has a simple conical pit in it, with no provisions
for any retaining clip.  The author of the article says, 3I9m not sure if
this [MK1A] clutch rod clip works with the [MK2] lever arm, but you may be
able to modify it.2  My questions are, since there are no provisions for a
clutch rod retaining wire clip on the MK2 arm, does this mean either that
the pushrod is different on the MK2 than it was on the MK1A, and (if not) is
there a need to use a retaining clip at all with the MK2 clutch lever arm?
If both answers are negative, then I will simply install the MK1A pushrod
into the slave cylinder and hope for the best.  Does anyone know how the MK2
setup looked?  I want to be sure about this because I can9t imagine the
disaster that would be caused by firing the pushrod out of the slave
cylinder!  Thanks in advance.  M


On 7/13/10 3:38 AM, "Gary" <maliburevue at yahoo.com> wrote:

> You may have the wrong clutch fork. You need to use the same clutch
> fork as the 5 bolt setup, at least the same length. Read the attached
> article to
find
> out which bellhousing and clutch fork you do have.
>
> Gary
>
> --- On Mon, 7/12/10, Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> From: Would U. Believe <mcdangerous at verizon.net>
>> Subject: [Tigers] MKII / Six Bolt Clutch Slave Cylinder Setup
>> To: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
>> Date: Monday, July 12, 2010, 6:30 PM
>>
>>> Hi all.  I have a question about the clutch cylinder setup on the
>>> MK2/289
>> six
>>> bolt bellhousing.  I have the MK2 clutch slave cylinder bracket and
>>> the
>> MK1A's slave cylinder, so that's a good start.  But because the
>> clutch
fork
>> is
>>> different from the older 5 bolt housing's clutch fork, I'm wondering
>>> if
the
>>> 3actuating rod2 from the slave cylinder is also different, or if the
2609s
>>> part will work. Does anyone know? Thanks. (I hope that all makes
>>> some
>>> sense!)

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Jul 13 09:35:23 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:35:23 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4C@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <932AA9B8A0744904B9291E1EC37CF397@ronpc1>

	I would suggest you put a slight point on the bolt to get by the bad
threads; a thread file might work OK here too.  As Theo states the threads
for UNF are slightly different from SAE threads.   If you have another same
bolt available I would cut grooves in the length of the bolt threads to make
it a thread chaser to clean the threads in the frame.  If you have just the
one bolt then be less aggressive and shorter with the grooves and run the
bolt in a out a few times cleaning the grooves each time until clean.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Smit, Theo
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 10:48 AM
To: Would U. Believe
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
Please!


Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length
(the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread
which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55
degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp.
So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you
thread on those bolts with the die, the better.

Good luck,
Theo
________________________________________
From: Would U. Believe [mcdangerous at verizon.net]
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 7:05 PM
To: Smit, Theo
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
Please!

Well, as it turns out, in a short time after work, with fresh eyes and a
fresh mind, I was able to get the third bolt in and the fourth hole is lined
up.  Unfortunately, I flattened the beginning threads of the fourth bolt
yesterday and will have to use a die to freshen them (or find another bolt.

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Tue Jul 13 10:23:35 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:23:35 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
Message-ID: <1961699830.477126.1279038215142.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>

Roger that!  Thanks.  M

Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com wrote:

Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better.

Good luck,
Theo
________________________________________
From: Would U. Believe [mcdangerous at verizon.net]
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 7:05 PM
To: Smit, Theo
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed Please!

Well, as it turns out, in a short time after work, with fresh eyes and a
fresh mind, I was able to get the third bolt in and the fourth hole is lined
up.  Unfortunately, I flattened the beginning threads of the fourth bolt
yesterday and will have to use a die to freshen them (or find another bolt.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Jul 13 11:04:52 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 10:04:52 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice Needed
 Please!
In-Reply-To: <1961699830.477126.1279038215142.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <1961699830.477126.1279038215142.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <4C3C9CB4.7050400@mayfco.com>

Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is  unthreaded, 
i.e., the shank of the bolt.

mayf
mcdangerous at verizon.net wrote:

>Roger that!  Thanks.  M
>
>Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com wrote:
>
>Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better.
>
>Good luck,
>Theo 

From dave at munroe.ca  Tue Jul 13 11:43:32 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (dave at munroe.ca)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:43:32 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease!
Message-ID: <mailman.17.1279042963.911.tigers@autox.team.net>

Hey Mayf, 

That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive.

Dave

------Original Message------
From: drmayf
Sender: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
To: mcdangerous at verizon.net
Cc: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
ReplyTo: drmayf at mayfco.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease!
Sent: 13 Jul 2010 14:04

Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is  unthreaded, 
i.e., the shank of the bolt.

mayf
mcdangerous at verizon.net wrote:

>Roger that!  Thanks.  M
>
>Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com wrote:
>
>Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better.
>
>Good luck,
>Theo 
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca



Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Jul 13 12:10:58 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:10:58 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease!
In-Reply-To: <26612475-1279043012-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1058570580-@bda823.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <26612475-1279043012-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1058570580-@bda823.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <4C3CAC32.5030502@mayfco.com>

Not when you really think about it. Think about two plates being bolted 
together. You want the strongest part of the bolt, the unthreaded part, 
to carry the load. If part of the bolt that is threaded in in the hole 
then the load capacity is reduced because of the root diameter of the 
bolt: ie smaller cross section for either shear or tension.

mayf
dave at munroe.ca wrote:

>Hey Mayf, 
>
>That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive.
>
>Dave
>
>------Original Message------
>From: drmayf
>Sender: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
>To: mcdangerous at verizon.net
>Cc: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com
>Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
>ReplyTo: drmayf at mayfco.com
>Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease!
>Sent: 13 Jul 2010 14:04
>
>Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is  unthreaded, 
>i.e., the shank of the bolt.
>
>mayf
>mcdangerous at verizon.net wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Roger that!  Thanks.  M
>>
>>Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com wrote:
>>
>>Those bolts are not easily found because of their length and the grip length (the amount of the bolt that is threaded). Also, they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite the same as SAE: the threads are angled at 55 degrees and the roots and tips of the threads are rounded rather than sharp. So your (SAE) die will change the thread shape somewhat - the less that you thread on those bolts with the die, the better.
>>
>>Good luck,
>>Theo 
>>    
>>
>_

From sganz at pacbell.net  Tue Jul 13 12:48:46 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:48:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
Message-ID: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tiger Fun -

Was up to 2am working on the Tiger last night. Got a new steering wheel adapter 
from Crowders Customizing and this one seems to work. This was a Nardi branded 
one vs. some generic that I received last time. Some of the trim had to be 
removed and it seems about an 1" longer then the Motolita wheel adapter 
(steering is 1" closer to driver). But spline is correct. The trim is a bit 
short but some black paint will make it look good enough.

While that was out rebuilt the turn indicator switch with a Sunbeam Specialties 
kit and that was a lot of fun getting the pivot/rivet thing out. It was hard to 
drill as it spun, finally crimped it and shoved a screwdriver in to keep from 
spinning. Mission accomplished, my turn switch now cancels when you turn the 
wheel!

And now an actual question!

Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II models 
and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work 
and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer.

http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/#

Thanks for any seat tips, someone sent me some a while back, but I can't dig up 
the email.

Sandy

From dave at munroe.ca  Tue Jul 13 12:51:45 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:51:45 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease!
In-Reply-To: <4C3CAC32.5030502@mayfco.com>
References: <26612475-1279043012-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1058570580-@bda823.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<4C3CAC32.5030502@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <BF9C52B5F7CD4F3DA377C21AA5A612F7@DavePC>

> Not when you really think about it. Think about two plates being bolted 
> together. You want the strongest part of the bolt, the unthreaded part, 
> to carry the load. If part of the bolt that is threaded in in the hole 
> then the load capacity is reduced because of the root diameter of the 
> bolt: ie smaller cross section for either shear or tension.
> 
> mayf
> dave at munroe.ca wrote:
> 
>>Hey Mayf, 
>>
>>That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive.
>>
>>Dave
!
>>Sent: 13 Jul 2010 14:04
>>
>>Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is  unthreaded, 
>>i.e., the shank of the bolt.
>>
>>mayf
>>mcdangerous at verizon.net wrote:

From dave at munroe.ca  Tue Jul 13 12:57:32 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:57:32 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache: Advice NeededPlease!
In-Reply-To: <4C3CAC32.5030502@mayfco.com>
References: <26612475-1279043012-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1058570580-@bda823.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<4C3CAC32.5030502@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <6E5024E38D7B4478BF92F2D16AA096A1@DavePC>

Now that makes sense!
( I should have really thought about it. )

Thanks for the lesson, Dr.MayF.

Dave




From: drmayf

Sender: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
 Not when you really think about it. Think about two plates being bolted 
together. You want the strongest part of the bolt, the unthreaded part, to 
carry the load. If part of the bolt that is threaded is in the hole  then 
the load capacity is reduced because of the root diameter of the bolt: ie 
smaller cross section for either shear or tension.

 mayf

dave at munroe.ca wrote:

Hey Mayf,

That is, interestingly, counter-intuitive.

Dave

Actually, the grip length is the amount of the bolt that is  unthreaded, 
i.e., the shank of the bolt.

mayf

mcdangerous at verizon.net wrote:

Roger that!  Thanks.  M

From lpaulick1 at verizon.net  Tue Jul 13 13:31:22 2010
From: lpaulick1 at verizon.net (Larry Paulick)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:31:22 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
In-Reply-To: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C3CBF0A.2040604@verizon.net>

I have the Fonza seat in my Tiger.  Like them as you sit in the as 
opposed as sitting on the Tiger seat.  The higher back does away with 
wind buffeting.  Adds leg room.  Work is involved.

Larry

On 7/13/10 2:48 PM, Sandy Ganz wrote:
> Tiger Fun -
>
> Was up to 2am working on the Tiger last night. Got a new steering wheel adapter
> from Crowders Customizing and this one seems to work. This was a Nardi branded
> one vs. some generic that I received last time. Some of the trim had to be
> removed and it seems about an 1" longer then the Motolita wheel adapter
> (steering is 1" closer to driver). But spline is correct. The trim is a bit
> short but some black paint will make it look good enough.
>
> While that was out rebuilt the turn indicator switch with a Sunbeam Specialties
> kit and that was a lot of fun getting the pivot/rivet thing out. It was hard to
> drill as it spun, finally crimped it and shoved a screwdriver in to keep from
> spinning. Mission accomplished, my turn switch now cancels when you turn the
> wheel!
>
> And now an actual question!
>
> Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II models
> and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work
> and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer.
>
> http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/#
>
> Thanks for any seat tips, someone sent me some a while back, but I can't dig up
> the email.
>
> Sandy

From ZForce56 at aol.com  Tue Jul 13 14:55:54 2010
From: ZForce56 at aol.com (ZForce56 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:55:54 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers
Message-ID: <2b44b.73a34916.396e2cda@aol.com>

Has anyone got any experience with the stainless steel bumpers marketed by  
the Harrington Group and made in Vietnam? I am interested in knowing the 
about  the fit, finish, and quality. I have recently-replated original chrome 
bumpers  but the plater was not sufficiently skilled and the bumpers are 
objectionably  wavy.
    Thanks,
    Zach

From Carmods at aol.com  Tue Jul 13 15:07:07 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:07:07 EDT
Subject: [Tigers]  Crossmember Installation Headache
Message-ID: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>

Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:

they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE: 
 
 

Theo,
 
Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)? 
 
What size are they?
 
John Logan

From jliny5 at cox.net  Tue Jul 13 15:13:51 2010
From: jliny5 at cox.net (jliny5 at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:13:51 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] Car Transport
Message-ID: <141845663-1279055618-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1211506314-@bda728.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Good afternoon

As my effort to acquire a Tiger moves along, I was wondering if the List has any recommendations on enclosed car transport companies. I got a quote from Reliable (advertised on MECUM site) and spoke to Passport Transport, but they had limitations on Operating in Virginia, where I reside. Any recommendations or comments welcome.

Once again great to be on the list, I am learning a lot.

Thx,

Jim Lindner

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Tue Jul 13 15:15:32 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:15:32 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
In-Reply-To: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit side
to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even
that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are also
not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is required
regardless.

Theo
________________________________________
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Sandy Ganz [sganz at pacbell.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats

Tiger Fun -

And now an actual question!

Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II
models
and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work
and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer.

http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/#

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Jul 13 15:55:44 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:55:44 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CF423454101A41F2A21059DC29EFAFAB@ronpc1>

John

	The bolts are 1/2" UNF x 3 1/4"; UNF is compatible with SAE fine
thread but there are small differences.  An SAE tap run through these
threads will cut metal.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carmods at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:07 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache


Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:

they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE:



Theo,

Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)?

What size are they?

John Logan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2998 - Release Date: 07/13/10
06:36:00

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 16:43:23 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:43:23 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers
In-Reply-To: <2b44b.73a34916.396e2cda@aol.com>
References: <2b44b.73a34916.396e2cda@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTika5RI_rCwTqAXHaniSqtgWfhE3mcJlVJEUwV7P@mail.gmail.com>

There have been mixed reports about them.. the finish is meant to be good,
the fit however might be questionable and the strangth the same. There is a
thread on the CAT board discussing them.. maybe have a quick read.

On 14 July 2010 06:55, <ZForce56 at aol.com> wrote:

> Has anyone got any experience with the stainless steel bumpers marketed by
> the Harrington Group and made in Vietnam? I am interested in knowing the
> about  the fit, finish, and quality. I have recently-replated original
> chrome
> bumpers  but the plater was not sufficiently skilled and the bumpers are
> objectionably  wavy.
>    Thanks,
>    Zach
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 16:44:07 2010
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:44:07 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Car Transport
In-Reply-To: <141845663-1279055618-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1211506314-@bda728.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <141845663-1279055618-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1211506314-@bda728.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil2IfNh6ir7t6BpEft_QXK2esFf47_p_pQuDhwz@mail.gmail.com>

What I do is rent a Penski 16ft truck for less 100 aday and do it my self
hire alocal tow guy to load and unload

On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:13 PM, <jliny5 at cox.net> wrote:

> Good afternoon
>
> As my effort to acquire a Tiger moves along, I was wondering if the List
> has any recommendations on enclosed car transport companies. I got a quote
> from Reliable (advertised on MECUM site) and spoke to Passport Transport,
> but they had limitations on Operating in Virginia, where I reside. Any
> recommendations or comments welcome.
>
> Once again great to be on the list, I am learning a lot.
>
> Thx,
>
> Jim Lindner
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 16:45:57 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:45:57 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilRHeKEnuULNMDSVooKA8HXpL205W8vnjb3I10n@mail.gmail.com>

I used the cobra classic bucket, which from what i can tell is almost the
same as the corbeau classic seat.. the one you have shown looks a little
wide.. here is a picture of the bucket in my alpine SII.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1136010562054462410yZGscn



On 14 July 2010 07:15, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:

> Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit
> side
> to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even
> that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are also
> not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is
> required
> regardless.
>
> Theo
> ________________________________________
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf
> Of Sandy Ganz [sganz at pacbell.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
>
> Tiger Fun -
>
> And now an actual question!
>
> Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II
> models
> and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much
> work
> and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer.
>
> http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/#
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
> sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
> or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
>  Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 16:46:26 2010
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:46:26 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
References: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikE-vY4SSNsHMCaRwJjuHwgjUCXGVEzLbhpqeQg@mail.gmail.com>

SAE fine thread from the Ace store work just fine

On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:07 PM, <Carmods at aol.com> wrote:

> Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:
>
> they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE:
>
>
>
> Theo,
>
> Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)?
>
> What size are they?
>
> John Logan
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From s_ralsten at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 13 16:53:04 2010
From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:53:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers
In-Reply-To: <2b44b.73a34916.396e2cda@aol.com>
Message-ID: <293125.63862.qm@web120102.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Read from the CAT discussion board here...

http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=289


Steve

--- On Tue, 7/13/10, ZForce56 at aol.com <ZForce56 at aol.com> wrote:

> From: ZForce56 at aol.com <ZForce56 at aol.com>
> Subject: [Tigers] Stainless steel bumpers
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, July 13, 2010, 1:55 PM
> Has anyone got any experience with
> the stainless steel bumpers marketed by 
> the Harrington Group and made in Vietnam? I am interested
> in knowing the
> about  the fit, finish, and quality. I have
> recently-replated original chrome
> bumpers  but the plater was not sufficiently skilled
> and the bumpers are
> objectionably  wavy.
>     Thanks,
>     Zach

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 17:23:33 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 19:23:33 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
References: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinDc0K4SlbupaJgum43efJlaY9MhGTQycoh2OGO@mail.gmail.com>

I checked the Alpine parts book. They're UNF threads.

Tom

On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:07 PM, <Carmods at aol.com> wrote:

> Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:
>
> they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE:
>
>
>
> Theo,
>
> Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)?
>
> What size are they?
>
> John Logan
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From sganz at pacbell.net  Tue Jul 13 18:48:56 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:48:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilRHeKEnuULNMDSVooKA8HXpL205W8vnjb3I10n@mail.gmail.com>
References: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<AANLkTilRHeKEnuULNMDSVooKA8HXpL205W8vnjb3I10n@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <986111.43787.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks all so far for the seat suggestions. Michael was the one that I was 
looking for. I like the look of that seat, still looks vintage. The width of the 
Cobra Classic was 19.3" and the wide point and I think the Corbeau's were right 
at 19" as well. I'll have to get some measurements going.

I may be removing the console and that might allow some wiggle room but will 
have to get the tape measure out tonight.

Also Michael, what did you do to mount those seats, did you use the Sunbeam 
rails or new brackets to mount the seats?  And same question Larry ;)

Thanks a bunch for the feedback!

Sandy




________________________________
From: michael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
Cc: Sandy Ganz <sganz at pacbell.net>; "tigers at autox.team.net" 
<tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 3:45:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats


I used the cobra classic bucket, which from what i can tell is almost the same 
as the corbeau classic seat.. the one you have shown looks a little wide.. here 
is a picture of the bucket in my alpine SII.
 http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1136010562054462410yZGscn 


 
On 14 July 2010 07:15, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:

Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit side
>to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even
>that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are also
>not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is required
>regardless.
>
>Theo
>________________________________________
>From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
>Of Sandy Ganz [sganz at pacbell.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM
>To: tigers at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
>
>Tiger Fun -
>
>
>And now an actual question!
>
>Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II
>models
>and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much work
>and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer.
>
>http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/#
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>---
>This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
>use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
>be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
>any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
>please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
>Thank you for your cooperation.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 18:57:22 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 10:57:22 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
In-Reply-To: <986111.43787.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <587448.9078.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC4E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<AANLkTilRHeKEnuULNMDSVooKA8HXpL205W8vnjb3I10n@mail.gmail.com>
	<986111.43787.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTilbSXVvYiIOEVHA0RPnCIMP40UEgULmCEXD_hyt@mail.gmail.com>

Sandy,

I used the runners that cobra sold.. they have fore and aft movement..AIMHO
are a lot safer than thee rootes sunners as the seat doesnt hinge forward so
wont throw you in a hit. Also apart from the side bolsters holding you in in
the corners, the fact the seat is secure to the floor on all 4 corners means
it doesnt lean either.. feels much more solid.

Also.. i didnt go for the optional headrests as they are too short to do
anything.. now.. to throw in another option.. and a lot more pricey.. but
there are replca porsche RS carerra seats from GTS that i htink are even
nicer.. but cost a fair bit more:

http://gtsclassics.com.au/Details.cfm?ProdID=47&category=2

though iwould not sue the head rests...

On 14 July 2010 10:48, Sandy Ganz <sganz at pacbell.net> wrote:

>  Thanks all so far for the seat suggestions. Michael was the one that I
> was looking for. I like the look of that seat, still looks vintage. The
> width of the Cobra Classic was 19.3" and the wide point and I think the
> Corbeau's were right at 19" as well. I'll have to get some measurements
> going.
>
> I may be removing the console and that might allow some wiggle room but
> will have to get the tape measure out tonight.
>
> Also Michael, what did you do to mount those seats, did you use the Sunbeam
> rails or new brackets to mount the seats?  And same question Larry ;)
>
> Thanks a bunch for the feedback!
>
> Sandy
>
>  ------------------------------
> *From:* michael king <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
> *To:* "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
> *Cc:* Sandy Ganz <sganz at pacbell.net>; "tigers at autox.team.net" <
> tigers at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tue, July 13, 2010 3:45:57 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
>
> I used the cobra classic bucket, which from what i can tell is almost the
> same as the corbeau classic seat.. the one you have shown looks a little
> wide.. here is a picture of the bucket in my alpine SII.
>
> http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1136010562054462410yZGscn
>
>
>
> On 14 July 2010 07:15, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:
>
>> Check the base measurements on that seat... I'm not sure that it will fit
>> side
>> to side. They have the original Classic that is an inch narrower, but even
>> that one might be a squeeze to get in there. IIRC, the Tiger rails are
>> also
>> not symmetric with respect to the seat centerline so some adapting is
>> required
>> regardless.
>>
>> Theo
>> ________________________________________
>> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf
>> Of Sandy Ganz [sganz at pacbell.net]
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 12:48 PM
>> To: tigers at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Tigers] Turn Signals, Steering Wheels and Seats
>>
>> Tiger Fun -
>>
>> And now an actual question!
>>
>> Anyone use Corbeau seats in their tiger? I was looking at the Classic II
>> models
>> and want something that I can drop onto the tiger rails without too much
>> work
>> and that don't like like seats from a Honda Civic Racer.
>>
>> http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/classic_ii/#
>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> ---
>> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
>> sole
>> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
>> please
>> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
>> or
>> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
>> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>>
>> Thank you for your cooperation.
>> _______________________________________________
>>  Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
>



-- 
Regards

Michael King

From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 13 19:30:33 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 18:30:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinDc0K4SlbupaJgum43efJlaY9MhGTQycoh2OGO@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
	<AANLkTinDc0K4SlbupaJgum43efJlaY9MhGTQycoh2OGO@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <502746.73702.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I have covered this years ago.  Your nearest Caterpillar dealer parts
counter
sells genuine CAT bolts, nuts, washers.  All grade 8, phosphate
coated for
outdoor use, feature rolled threads and are quality USA made.
Deere bolts are
supposed to be good.  Washers?  CAT washers
actually fit the underside of a
bolt head relief and have the correct
taper side.  Taper?  That's so the
washer straightens up when
torgue is applied.

Forget the Auto parts stuff.
Bonus.  Some CAT bolt heads say CAT.




________________________________
From: Tom Parker <tkparker1941 at gmail.com>
To: Carmods at aol.com
Cc:
tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 7:23:33 PM
Subject: Re:
[Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache

I checked the Alpine parts book.
They're UNF threads.

Tom

On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:07 PM, <Carmods at aol.com>
wrote:

> Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:
>
>
they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE:
>
>
>
> Theo,
>
> Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread 
(BSF)?
>
> What size are they?
>
> John Logan
>
_______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Tue Jul 13 19:30:05 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:30:05 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust Manifolds/Downpipes
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinDc0K4SlbupaJgum43efJlaY9MhGTQycoh2OGO@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C8628B5D.3EEF%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

OK, next problem:  I received the lovely stainless steel downpipes to use
with the stock exhaust manifolds from Sunbeam Specialties today, but these
do not come with the absolutely necessary flanges. Rick doesn't sell these.
What a drag!  Does anyone know where I can find a set of the OEM exhaust
flanges (or replacements), and/or what other cars used the same ones?  Any
advice will be greatly appreciated!  Thanks in advance for your help.  M

From rande at thecia.net  Tue Jul 13 20:22:08 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 22:22:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] crossmember taps
Message-ID: <4c3d1f50.915.0@thecia.net>

I wondered if someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies

http://products.tapcousa.com

This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus shipping.
The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread.

Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and see if they
come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier.

RB

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 13 21:34:44 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:34:44 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Car Transport
References: <141845663-1279055618-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1211506314-@bda728.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <66D6D422031E491B9CFDC53126B41E8A@PETERHOME>

i had a great experience with intercity, do do mostly coast to coast, but i 
shipped a car from Nebraska to NY using them last year

http://www.intercitylines.com/

they were highly recommended when i was asking folks


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jliny5 at cox.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:13 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Car Transport


> Good afternoon
>
> As my effort to acquire a Tiger moves along, I was wondering if the List 
> has any recommendations on enclosed car transport companies. I got a quote 
> from Reliable (advertised on MECUM site) and spoke to Passport Transport, 
> but they had limitations on Operating in Virginia, where I reside. Any 
> recommendations or comments welcome.
>
> Once again great to be on the list, I am learning a lot.
>
> Thx,
>
> Jim Lindner
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/laurin212 at yahoo.com

From sigmaengr at carolina.rr.com  Tue Jul 13 21:42:42 2010
From: sigmaengr at carolina.rr.com (Sigma Engineering)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 23:42:42 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] crossmember taps
References: <4c3d1f50.915.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <84CB563B86E44E488E2DE9DB8D795928@D32K5JC1>

Try Travers Tool Supply...i get most of my machining supplies from them, 
have for many years.  Various grades offered but all good stuff depending on 
your application (home, shop, commercial).  1/2-20 taps starting at around 
$5 (they probably have 100's of 1/2-20 tap choices)

http://www.travers.com/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "rande" <rande at thecia.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 10:22 PM
Subject: [Tigers] crossmember taps


>I wondered if someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies
>
> http://products.tapcousa.com
>
> This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus 
> shipping.
> The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread.
>
> Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and see if 
> they
> come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier.
>
> RB
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sigmaengr at carolina.rr.com

From modtiger at comcast.net  Tue Jul 13 21:49:07 2010
From: modtiger at comcast.net (Tom Hall)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 20:49:07 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] crossmember taps
In-Reply-To: <4c3d1f50.915.0@thecia.net>
References: <4c3d1f50.915.0@thecia.net>
Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.2.20100713204041.05b168b8@comcast.net>

At 07:22 PM 7/13/2010, you wrote:
>I wondered if someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies
>
>http://products.tapcousa.com
>
>This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus shipping.
>The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread.
>
>Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and 
>see if they
>come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier.

If you are going to chase and re-thread the frame tube nuts, you will 
need a tap with an extended shank.  The standard shank length will 
not get you far enough into the tube to do this job 
correctly.  McMaster-Carr P/N
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=2582A21>2582A21 
will do the job nicely.  I use this on every frame I repair when I 
attach my reinforcing plates.


Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Tue Jul 13 22:01:17 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 00:01:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust  Manifolds/Downpipes
In-Reply-To: <C8628B5D.3EEF%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <B6DFBD3411F14B7D810B416FAD517BC0@ronpc1>

M
	Flange, exhaust - C3AZ-5269-A

Any shop that does exhaust systems should have them.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 9:30 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust Manifolds/Downpipes


OK, next problem:  I received the lovely stainless steel downpipes to use
with the stock exhaust manifolds from Sunbeam Specialties today, but these
do not come with the absolutely necessary flanges. Rick doesn't sell these.
What a drag!  Does anyone know where I can find a set of the OEM exhaust
flanges (or replacements), and/or what other cars used the same ones?  Any
advice will be greatly appreciated!  Thanks in advance for your help.  M
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2998 - Release Date: 07/13/10
06:36:00

From sganz at pacbell.net  Tue Jul 13 22:49:37 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:49:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] crossmember taps
In-Reply-To: <7.0.0.16.2.20100713204041.05b168b8@comcast.net>
References: <4c3d1f50.915.0@thecia.net>
	<7.0.0.16.2.20100713204041.05b168b8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <460191.93578.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tom, not sure if that linked worked, but here is another to the part -
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2582a21/=7y9u7b

Sandy



----- Original Message ----
From: Tom Hall <modtiger at comcast.net>
To: rande at thecia.net
Cc:
tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, July 13, 2010 8:49:07 PM
Subject: Re:
[Tigers] crossmember taps

At 07:22 PM 7/13/2010, you wrote:
>I wondered if
someone local (US) could get UNF tap and dies
>
>http://products.tapcousa.com
>
>This outfit sells a single 1/2"-20 UNF set for around 29.00US plus
shipping.
>The other choice is 1/2"-13 which sounds like course thread.
>
>Someone else is welcome check their site, enter the information and 
>see if
they
>come up with similar results, or maybe another supplier.

If you are
going to chase and re-thread the frame tube nuts, you will 
need a tap with an
extended shank.  The standard shank length will 
not get you far enough into
the tube to do this job 
correctly.  McMaster-Carr P/N
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP?tab=find&context=psrchDtlLink&fasttrack
=False&searchstring=2582A21>2582A21
 
will do the job nicely.  I use this on
every frame I repair when I 
attach my reinforcing plates.


Tom Hall
ModTiger
Engineering LLC
www.tigerengineering.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Wed Jul 14 08:57:37 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:57:37 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
References: <2be47.62ffcb7.396e2f7b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC50@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as described by
Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited earlier I don't
think that these are British thread after all.

BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch, while BSF has
16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF is spec'ed
at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13.

So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60 degree thread
profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference fit (which
might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt threads)?

As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and shorter grip
length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily go to your
local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to put extra
threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes stress risers at
the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads rolled into
them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and strengthens the
threaded area.

Theo
________________________________________
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Carmods at aol.com [Carmods at aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers]  Crossmember Installation Headache

Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:

they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE:



Theo,

Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)?

What size are they?

John Logan
_______________________________________________


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Thank you for your cooperation.

From wwwdg at webtv.net  Wed Jul 14 09:43:01 2010
From: wwwdg at webtv.net (David or Gary)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 15:43:01 GMT
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust Flanges for OEM Exhaust  Manifolds/Downpipes
Message-ID: <BAY148-ds9509DFEF1A413E014C74EADBA0@phx.gbl>

Although any muffler shop will have a flange that will work they are
usually "universal fit" and are quite a bit larger in both overall size
(sometimes causing clearance problems) and the holes are elongated
requiring washers. The original type flange is hard to find, but they
were still being made five years ago, don't know if they still are
available today.
I have a pair of new ones, also nice used ones, contact me if you are
interested.
David Franchi

From Carmods at aol.com  Wed Jul 14 10:28:50 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 12:28:50 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
Message-ID: <5ec2b.6f3f9fa0.396f3fc2@aol.com>

I believe I'm safe in saying, that UNF, SAE and ISO thread profile
dimensions are the same. There are thread tolerance classes and coatings that
effect the fit between nuts, bolts dies and taps.

Whitworth Threads

Rootes used Whitworth BSF and BA fasteners in its vehicles almost
exclusively through the mid-50's. Tiger owners are lucky that they fazed  out
most
of the Whitworth threads by the time Tigers were built, although some  exist.
Spouses, partners and playmates of those who have purchased older  vintage
British-made cars often believe that bWhitworth threadsb is code for
bYou
had a screw loose the day you bought that thingb.
.John Logan

From zymmer4 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 14 10:43:55 2010
From: zymmer4 at yahoo.com (Howard gentry)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:43:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC50@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <292639.20572.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi,
     A 1/2-20 UNF has a 60 degree thread form, rolled or cut thread. Clearance
is detirmined by the specified major and minor diameter of the threads
themselves.
zym

The Blues is the only music Original to the United States of America.

--- On Wed, 7/14/10, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:


From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
To: "Carmods at aol.com" <Carmods at aol.com>, "tigers at autox.team.net"
<tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 14, 2010, 10:57 AM


Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as described by
Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited earlier I don't
think that these are British thread after all.

BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch, while BSF has
16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF is
spec'ed
at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13.

So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60 degree thread
profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference fit (which
might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt threads)?

As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and shorter
grip
length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily go to
your
local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to put extra
threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes stress risers
at
the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads rolled into
them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and strengthens the
threaded area.

Theo
________________________________________
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Carmods at aol.com [Carmods at aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers]  Crossmember Installation Headache

Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:

they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE:



Theo,

Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)?

What size are they?

John Logan
_______________________________________________


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sole
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please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.
_______________________________________________
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From rande at thecia.net  Wed Jul 14 12:55:51 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 14:55:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust flanges
Message-ID: <4c3e0837.6e61.0@thecia.net>

Hi,
For anyone with a Ford parts catalogue(book, fiche,etc), I wonder if the down
pipe flange is comparable on our cars to one from a '65-67 Mustang, Cougar,
Falcon,Cyclone, etc. What diameter are their down pipes for small blocks. And,
failing that information, would it benefit someone to bring their exhaust manifold
and down pipe to a dealer to match what Ford/Mercury dealers have in stock?


I have the right side manifold off. The dimensions for that flange are:
   two inch downpipe hole
   the attaching bolt holes are three inches apart, center to 
   center.

   the attaching holes are 9/16 diameter
   the actual bolts are 7/16 fine (threaded part)by 1.5" long.

If your dealer can get the part number but not the part, try
www.greensalescompany.com  , an obsolete Ford part source. You can enter the
part number to check stock, but you need to call them for price, if they show
the part.

RB

From wwwdg at webtv.net  Wed Jul 14 13:11:15 2010
From: wwwdg at webtv.net (David or Gary)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 19:11:15 GMT
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust flanges
Message-ID: <BAY148-ds176CF245926E934BABBAD8ADBA0@phx.gbl>

All small block Fords (until about 1970) use the same flange 2" except
the early 221 cu. in. which had a flat welded on flange.
Most, I believe all? V8 Ford cars have head pipes made so the flange
can't be removed. You can only get the flange with the head pipe
assembly.
David
-------------
Hi,
For anyone with a Ford parts catalogue(book, fiche,etc), I wonder if the
down pipe flange is comparable on our cars to one from a '65-67 Mustang,
Cougar, Falcon,Cyclone, etc. What diameter are their down pipes for
small blocks. And, failing that information, would it benefit someone to
bring their exhaust manifold and down pipe to a dealer to match what
Ford/Mercury dealers have in stock?
I have the right side manifold off. The dimensions for that flange are:
  two inch downpipe hole
      the attaching bolt holes are three inches apart,
center to   center.
      the attaching holes are 9/16 diameter
      the actual bolts are 7/16 fine (threaded part)by 1.5"
long.
If your dealer can get the part number but not the part, try
www.greensalescompany.com , an obsolete Ford part source. You can enter
the part number to check stock, but you need to call them for price, if
they show the part.
RB

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Wed Jul 14 17:19:14 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 19:19:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CCFC50@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <C863BE32.3F14%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Here's a dumb question:  Since these bolts are such oddballs in the US,
what's to stop people from using a 1/2-20 SAE tap and just installing new
Grade 8 SAE 1/2-20 bolts?  Just curious.  If that's an insane idea, is there
a source for suitable and appropriate replacement crossmember bolts
anywhere?  Thanks.  M


On 7/14/10 10:57 AM, "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:

> Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as described by
> Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited earlier I don't
> think that these are British thread after all.
> 
> BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch, while BSF has
> 16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF is spec'ed
> at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13.
> 
> So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60 degree thread
> profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference fit (which
> might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt threads)?
> 
> As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and shorter grip
> length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily go to your
> local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to put extra
> threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes stress risers at
> the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads rolled into
> them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and strengthens the
> threaded area.
> 
> Theo
> ________________________________________
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf
> Of Carmods at aol.com [Carmods at aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers]  Crossmember Installation Headache
> 
> Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:
> 
> they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same as SAE:
> 
> 
> 
> Theo,
> 
> Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)?
> 
> What size are they?
> 
> John Logan
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
> 
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From jim at island.net  Wed Jul 14 19:09:05 2010
From: jim at island.net (Jim)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 18:09:05 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <C863BE32.3F14%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <C863BE32.3F14%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <0D69593A-63C2-4ADF-A8B3-43B88322939C@island.net>

I must be missing something...when I go to my local industrial  
supplier, they only have 2 kinds of 'inch' bolts... UNC and UNF ! All  
my taps and dies are the same. What's different about SAE?? Or is that  
a U.S. term for a world standard?
I bought new UNF grade 8's for the crossmember... Ran a long tap  
though... No problem at all...reused those nice thick stock washers  
though...
Also, I don't see a need for those 'long thread' 3/8" UNF bolts for  
the fulcrum pins... If you reach into the crossmemer, you can feel all  
that extra thread sticking through the threaded backing plate... Just  
use shorter bolts with the normal length thread and they will still  
stick out the back a little...

Jim
B382000446


Sent from my iPhone

On 2010-07-14, at 4:19 PM, "Would U. Believe"  
<mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:

> Here's a dumb question:  Since these bolts are such oddballs in the  
> US,
> what's to stop people from using a 1/2-20 SAE tap and just  
> installing new
> Grade 8 SAE 1/2-20 bolts?  Just curious.  If that's an insane idea,  
> is there
> a source for suitable and appropriate replacement crossmember bolts
> anywhere?  Thanks.  M
>
>
> On 7/14/10 10:57 AM, "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:
>
>> Good question! I re-read the various standards (at least as  
>> described by
>> Wikipedia) and combined with the Alpine parts reference cited  
>> earlier I don't
>> think that these are British thread after all.
>>
>> BSW (British Standard Whitworth) in 1/2" has a 12 thread pitch,  
>> while BSF has
>> 16 threads per inch. We know that the chassis bolts are 1/2-20. UNF  
>> is spec'ed
>> at 1/2-20 while UNC is 1/2-13.
>>
>> So the question that remains is, are these bolts made with a 60  
>> degree thread
>> profile or not? If they are, are they designed for an interference  
>> fit (which
>> might explain why a standard die will remove material from the bolt  
>> threads)?
>>
>> As already stated, these bolts have a longer threaded section and  
>> shorter grip
>> length (thanks Mayf!) than a standard SAE bolt, so you can't easily  
>> go to your
>> local ACE hardware store to buy replacements. Using a thread die to  
>> put extra
>> threads on a store bought bolt is dangerous because it causes  
>> stress risers at
>> the root of the threads - conventional bolts have the threads  
>> rolled into
>> them, which essentially forges the threads into the bolt and  
>> strengthens the
>> threaded area.
>>
>> Theo
>> ________________________________________
>> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]  
>> On Behalf
>> Of Carmods at aol.com [Carmods at aol.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:07 PM
>> To: tigers at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Tigers]  Crossmember Installation Headache
>>
>> Jul 13, 2010 09:52:38 AM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  wrote:
>>
>> they're British fine thread which is almost but not quite  the same  
>> as SAE:
>>
>>
>>
>> Theo,
>>
>> Are you sure those bolts are British Standard Fine Thread  (BSF)?
>>
>> What size are they?
>>
>> John Logan
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>> --- 
>> --- 
>> --- 
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>> ---
>> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material  
>> for the sole
>> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended  
>> recipient, please
>> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this  
>> e-mail or
>> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in  
>> error,
>> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>>
>> Thank you for your cooperation.
>> ___________________________

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Jul 14 19:46:00 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 21:46:00 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache
In-Reply-To: <C863BE32.3F14%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <2811F624670D47B79F677C1AAB87AB0A@ronpc1>

	UNF; Unified Fine and UNC; Unified Coarse was established during
WWII to be compatible and interchangeable with SAE threads but there are
some slight differences between the threads.  An SAE 1/2 -20 should go right
into those threads without using a tap.  If there is a problem running the
bolt in from the bottom, run the bolt in from the top

	Any time I put an SAE tap through a Unified thread I cut metal and
the UNF bolt feels a bit loose in those threads.  An SAE thread chaser might
work OK but I have not tried.  I prefer not to cut the original threads more
than necessary.

	I prefer to cut grooves into the UNF bolt threads, making it it's
own tap and use it to clear Unified threads.   If that is not possible I
would take an SAE 1/2-20 bolt and cut grooves into it to make a thread
chaser.

Yes, UNF taps are available but I have mostly seem them in kits not
individually.

My notes indicate that the crossmember bolt is 3 1/4" UNF, Auto S - thread
length = 1.7", shank length = 1.55"
Auto S is the bolt grade, I think S denotes about a grade 8 but I can't find
my sheet about that right now.

I have purchased many bolt from a Caterpillar dealer but I don't remember if
I purchased any crossmember bolts.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 7:19 PM
To: Smit, Theo; Carmods at aol.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Crossmember Installation Headache


Here's a dumb question:  Since these bolts are such oddballs in the US,
what's to stop people from using a 1/2-20 SAE tap and just installing new
Grade 8 SAE 1/2-20 bolts?  Just curious.  If that's an insane idea, is there
a source for suitable and appropriate replacement crossmember bolts
anywhere?  Thanks.  M

From Rollright at aol.com  Thu Jul 15 13:46:12 2010
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 15:46:12 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers
Message-ID: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>

Hello,
 
After having four bumpers sitting in the basement for at least 10 years,  
Gary Fish called up Nuchrome in New Bedford, MA for me. I took over the  
interaction from there.
 
Bottom line: bumpers to be re chromed in 4 to 6 weeks at $ 250  per bumper. 
How about a deal on 4 of them? $ 8.00 off each. Some sort of tax  they will 
absorb. So, $ 250.
 
If you are local to CT, MA, NH, and So. ME, they pick up and deliver.  
Eventually. That saves a lot, it really does..
 
So, I'll let you know...
 

Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE

From mark.rense at ge.com  Thu Jul 15 15:06:18 2010
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd))
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 17:06:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers
In-Reply-To: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

Jim,
That's about right, I just had two fairly clean bumpers and the four
over-riders re-chromed for $500. Another $250 covered all the latches,
mirror stalk, door handles, cranks, pulls, post covers and badges. I
still have the rear tail lights and a few other bits to take over. It
sure ain't cheap putting one of these suckers back together!

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 3:46 PM
To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net
Cc: onegonefish at comcast.net; todbrown at roadrunner.com
Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers

Hello,

After having four bumpers sitting in the basement for at least 10 years,
Gary Fish called up Nuchrome in New Bedford, MA for me. I took over the
interaction from there.

Bottom line: bumpers to be re chromed in 4 to 6 weeks at $ 250  per
bumper.
How about a deal on 4 of them? $ 8.00 off each. Some sort of tax  they
will absorb. So, $ 250.

If you are local to CT, MA, NH, and So. ME, they pick up and deliver.
Eventually. That saves a lot, it really does..

So, I'll let you know...


Jim  Armstrong
Mk 1A 382002083
LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mark.rense at ge.com

From Tigerman67 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 15 16:37:31 2010
From: Tigerman67 at hotmail.com (Tiger Man)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 16:37:31 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>

I've always been curious about how much chroming costs, thanks for letting 
us know.

Does that include all the prep costs?  I've heard that the parts have to be 
looking perfect before they are chromed, or you will see it in the end 
result.  I am assuming then that 40+ year old previously chromed parts need 
some prep work before hand?

So do they still do true 'chroming'?  I though that the old process used 
some nasty chemicals and many places now offer some other finish or process 
that isn't quite as nasty to be around.

Just curious

Thanks,
Steve

> Jim,
> That's about right, I just had two fairly clean bumpers and the four
> over-riders re-chromed for $500. Another $250 covered all the latches,
> mirror stalk, door handles, cranks, pulls, post covers and badges. I
> still have the rear tail lights and a few other bits to take over. It
> sure ain't cheap putting one of these suckers back together!
>
> Bugz
>
> Hello,
>
> After having four bumpers sitting in the basement for at least 10 years,
> Gary Fish called up Nuchrome in New Bedford, MA for me. I took over the
> interaction from there.
>
> Bottom line: bumpers to be re chromed in 4 to 6 weeks at $ 250  per
> bumper.
> How about a deal on 4 of them? $ 8.00 off each. Some sort of tax  they
> will absorb. So, $ 250.
>
> If you are local to CT, MA, NH, and So. ME, they pick up and deliver.
> Eventually. That saves a lot, it really does..
>
> So, I'll let you know...
>
>
> Jim  Armstrong
> Mk 1A 382002083
> LRXFE

From laurin212 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 15 16:59:16 2010
From: laurin212 at yahoo.com (Peter Laurinaitis)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2010 18:59:16 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <9F6A75499B15482C94E45BD95E0B2DC1@PETERHOME>

sounds like a screaming bargain, assuming the quality is there.

the shop i used (that tim suddard from classic motorsports used for his 
tiger) charges like triple that, literally.

i tried working them down in price but couldnt get them to budge.  i either 
got robbed or got what i paid for...  =)

doug jennings says they look good, i havent seen them yet...



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)" <mark.rense at ge.com>
To: <Rollright at aol.com>; <tigers at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers


> Jim,
> That's about right, I just had two fairly clean bumpers and the four
> over-riders re-chromed for $500. Another $250 covered all the latches,
> mirror stalk, door handles, cranks, pulls, post covers and badges. I
> still have the rear tail lights and a few other bits to take over. It
> sure ain't cheap putting one of these suckers back together!

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Thu Jul 15 17:58:35 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 09:58:35 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] re-chroming bumpers
In-Reply-To: <BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>

On 16 July 2010 08:37, Tiger Man <Tigerman67 at hotmail.com> wrote:

>
> So do they still do true 'chroming'?  I though that the old process used
> some nasty chemicals and many places now offer some other finish or process
> that isn't quite as nasty to be around.
>
> Just curious
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
Its my understanding that all developed countries have ban the use of the
traditional chroming chemicals for OHS and reasons. Apparently this
diminished the ability to get as hard a finsh on the chrome and also makes
it harder to get a good finsh. I remember reading a good artcile about it
ina C&S about 6 years back when they started to phase all the chemicals out.

Long and the short of it, chroming is labour intenstive.. you need a very
straight well polished pats before you styart plating.. and then the finsh
depends hevaily on the amount of finshing and also what base layers they
use.. triple platiung chrome can mean several things.. it depends what those
3 layers are..

Apparently lots of the modern repro stuff is of very por quality and needs
to be rechromed before use.. the current wire wheels for brit cars and hub
caps/bumpers they do for VW's carry a warning they are suitable for summer
use only as the quality of the chroming is so low.

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Thu Jul 15 21:08:14 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 13:08:14 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] salvaged tiger?
Message-ID: <AANLkTilqqPTkT4tpXYFU4V_vljUyVAnckAFuZGcGqcao@mail.gmail.com>

For those who havent trawled Norms rootes1 site:
http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/pieces/tech1q.htm

looks like there might be some rusty parts to put to rest on land:
http://theage.drive.com.au/motor-news/great-cars-going-deep-20100715-10btu.html


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From rootes1 at earthlink.net  Fri Jul 16 17:20:05 2010
From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman C. Miller)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 16:20:05 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP
Message-ID: <E1OZuHe-0002Wf-8F@elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I'm looking for someone who has a copy of an old CAT Club photo 
calendar and can get me a high quality scan of the yellow Tiger 
depicted here.  In case you don't recognize the youngsters, that's 
Steve Sorenson on the left talking to Dan Walters.

  http://szwaxa.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGJ9Ue3z-S0_fK-eOrethIi8QB5mKxla_kj2MUTmlSI8kfx3Zz_RePyVeKdWh3ATMiNLtYClMeRqhnG_vdjg_AcpOK57C5RJx/boulware-request.jpg?psid=1

Thanks

Norm

From allanballard at att.net  Fri Jul 16 18:15:43 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:15:43 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>

I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~
3 decades of storage in a barn.

Current focus is on carburation.

It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.

Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a
restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It
looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly
gas in the
bottom of the carb.

Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the
carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died and
would not re-start.

I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
and no way it would start.

About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove
it onto the flatbed truck.

Does this make any sense to any one?

Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS
carb?

Allan

From tsmit at shaw.ca  Fri Jul 16 18:40:50 2010
From: tsmit at shaw.ca (Theo Smit)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 18:40:50 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Alpine bodyshell for sale
Message-ID: <4C40FC12.7020704@shaw.ca>

For anyone that's in dire need of chassis parts, I'm trying to free up 
some garage space:
<http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-Sunbeam-Alpine-Series-V-bodyshell-and-parts-W0QQAdIdZ217863406>

Thanks,

Theo

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Fri Jul 16 19:29:35 2010
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:29:35 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
Message-ID: <000301cb254f$841d54f0$8c57fed0$@rr.com>

Rebuild the Autolite 2100.  They are great carbs and won't let you down.

Duke
B382002037, running with a autolite 4100 and doing it very well.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:16 PM
To: michael king
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb

I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after
~
3 decades of storage in a barn.

Current focus is on carburation.

It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.

Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a
restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It
looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of
bubbly
gas in the
bottom of the carb.

Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the
carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died and
would not re-start.

I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
and no way it would start.

About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I
drove
it onto the flatbed truck.

Does this make any sense to any one?

Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS
carb?

Allan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Fri Jul 16 19:30:38 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 18:30:38 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
Message-ID: <4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>

Allan,

Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms?

If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything 
electrical was "it must be a loose wire" 

     (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations)

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Allan Ballard wrote:
> I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~
> 3 decades of storage in a barn.
>
> Current focus is on carburation.
>
> It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.
>
> Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a
> restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It
> looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of bubbly
> gas in the
> bottom of the carb.
>
> Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the
> carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
> died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died and
> would not re-start.
>
> I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
> carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
> and no way it would start.
>
> About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I drove
> it onto the flatbed truck.
>
> Does this make any sense to any one?
>
> Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS
> carb?
>
> Allan
> ______________________________________________

From allanballard at att.net  Fri Jul 16 19:35:48 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:35:48 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
	<4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>

Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel?


On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote:

> Allan,
>
> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms?
>
> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything
electrical was "it must be a loose wire"
>
> <confused.gif>     (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations)
>
> Steve
>
> Steve Laifman
> Editor
> http://TigersUnited.com
>
>
> Allan Ballard wrote:
>>
>> I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets
after ~
>> 3 decades of storage in a barn.
>>
>> Current focus is on carburation.
>>
>> It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.
>>
>> Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at
a
>> restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It
>> looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of
bubbly
>> gas in the
>> bottom of the carb.
>>
>> Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the
>> carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
>> died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died and
>> would not re-start.
>>
>> I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
>> carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
>> and no way it would start.
>>
>> About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I
drove
>> it onto the flatbed truck.
>>
>> Does this make any sense to any one?
>>
>> Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a
POS
>> carb?
>>
>> Allan
>> ______________________________________________

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Jul 16 20:04:49 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 22:04:49 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
Message-ID: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>

Allan, 
If it's boiling over Holly makes a "heat proof" spacer  that goes under the 
carb.  If that is truly what is happening, the spacer  will solve the 
problem. A few yrs. ago on the list someone else reported  symptoms similar to 
yours.....that is stalling while the car was running. This  might not be the 
boiling issue.  I would start by searching the archives 
_http://www.team.net/archive/tigers/_ (http://www.team.net/archive/tigers/) 
     to see what you find.  I'm sure someone else can chime in on  this.
Mark
 
In a message dated 7/16/2010 9:02:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
allanballard at att.net writes:

I m  sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets 
after  ~
3 decades of storage in a barn.

Current focus is on  carburation.

It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out  Motorcraft 2-bbl.

Recently it was running pretty good but after I  parked it to eat supper at 
a
restaurant recently, upon return to the car it  would not start. It
looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS  a half inch of 
bubbly
gas in the
bottom of the carb.

Subsequently  shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the
carb to  be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
died with the same  symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died and
would not  re-start.

I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and  looked down the
carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
and no way  it would start.

About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the  Sunbeam ranked so I 
drove
it onto the flatbed truck.

Does this make  any sense to any one?

Is there any way the coil could overheat and  cause this--or do I have a  
POS
carb?

Allan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Jul 16 20:10:08 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 22:10:08 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
Message-ID: <265ee.30ae8ec4.39726b00@aol.com>

Steve,
That could make sense.  If the float was stuck  open the pressure in the 
line could flood the carb even with the car  parked.
M
 
 
In a message dated 7/16/2010 10:06:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
slaifman at socal.rr.com writes:

Allan,

Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump  causing your symptoms?

If the ignition were cutting out, my father's  solution to everything 
electrical was "it must be a loose wire"  

(icon may be deleted by List Mail  limitations)

Steve

Steve  Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Allan  Ballard wrote:
> I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it  back on the streets 
after ~
> 3 decades of storage in a  barn.
>
> Current focus is on carburation.
>
> It has  a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.
>
>  Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper 
at  a
> restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start.  It
> looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch  of 
bubbly
> gas in the
> bottom of the carb.
>
>  Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced  
the
> carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic  it
> died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas  then died and
> would not re-start.
>
> I pushed it to the  side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
> carb--another a  pool of bubbly gas down there
> and no way it would  start.
>
> About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the  Sunbeam ranked so I 
drove
> it onto the flatbed truck.
>
>  Does this make any sense to any one?
>
> Is there any way the coil  could overheat and cause this--or do I have a 
POS
>  carb?
>
> Allan
>  ______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net  Fri Jul 16 20:13:09 2010
From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:13:09 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
	<4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
	<068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
Message-ID: <D6872B0023AF4631BB7DEB215F9E672F@your4dacd0ea75>

Have you checked to see if
1)  your needle is "junked up" & sticking?
2)  your Float level's OK?
3)  your carb's float still floats?

Finally, is the fuel simply boiling in the bowl
and overflowing the vents into the bore?

good luck,

Buck

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Ballard" <allanballard at att.net>
To: "Steve Laifman" <slaifman at socal.rr.com>
Cc: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb


> Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel?
>
>
> On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote:
>
>> Allan,
>>
>> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms?
>>
>> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything
> electrical was "it must be a loose wire"
>>
>> <confused.gif>     (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations)
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> Steve Laifman
>> Editor
>> http://TigersUnited.com
>>
>>
>> Allan Ballard wrote:
>>>
>>> I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets
> after ~
>>> 3 decades of storage in a barn.
>>>
>>> Current focus is on carburation.
>>>
>>> It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.
>>>
>>> Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper 
>>> at
> a
>>> restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It
>>> looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of
> bubbly
>>> gas in the
>>> bottom of the carb.
>>>
>>> Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced 
>>> the
>>> carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
>>> died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died 
>>> and
>>> would not re-start.
>>>
>>> I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
>>> carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
>>> and no way it would start.
>>>
>>> About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I
> drove
>>> it onto the flatbed truck.
>>>
>>> Does this make any sense to any one?
>>>
>>> Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a
> POS
>>> carb?
>>>
>>> Allan
>>> ______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________

From dave at munroe.ca  Fri Jul 16 20:30:02 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 23:30:02 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com><D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com><BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl><AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com><77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net><4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
	<068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
Message-ID: <D9939A78E8184EFEA49CC9FA488102AE@DavePC>

Allan:

I had the same problem with my re-built Holley. After way too much time 
wasted trying to get the carb sorted, I bought an Edelbrock 600 cfm 
replacement and had the same problem.

Eventually I got smart and put a pressure gauge on the fuel line to the 
carb - it was reading 14 psi. These carbs only need 5 to 6 psi. I got a new 
fuel pump that makes ~ 6 psi and have lived happily ever after.

Everyone has their own favorite carb. A new anything of the proper size is 
better than a rebuilt old one.

Best of luck,

Dave


Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb


> Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel?
>
>
> On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote:
>
>> Allan,
>>
>> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms?
>>
>> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything
> electrical was "it must be a loose wire"
>>
>> <confused.gif>     (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations)
>>
>> Steve

From csx2282 at sonic.net  Fri Jul 16 20:41:18 2010
From: csx2282 at sonic.net (csx2282)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:41:18 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number
Message-ID: <407DF132C4334445836D74D27F2F0F89@Cobra>

Hi all,

I'm trying to track down the part number and supplier of the original Tiger
water pump fans.  Perhaps there was more than one fan depending on the year
and model?  I would be interested in information on all of them.

Just to be clear, I'm not looking for an after market replacement or
alternatives, but info on the original fans.

Thanks,

Roland

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Jul 16 20:46:54 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:46:54 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>

As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas.  If this 
car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris.  If it is getting 
past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not 
allowing the float to close.  This might be the cause of the excess fuel.

 So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle & 
seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a 
none heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high.  Those would 
be the first things to check.

Tom 

From hallmotors at cox.net  Fri Jul 16 20:56:49 2010
From: hallmotors at cox.net (Hall Motors)
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:56:49 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
Message-ID: <00a601cb255b$b3d58e40$1b80aac0$@net>

Allan - I had a similar problem (intermittent flooding) with a HiPo Mustang
running its original (and rebuilt) Holley 4Bbl.  Turned out to be a float
that was fuel soaking and sinking.  If you didn't drive it for several weeks
it would "unsoak".  When driven, after a while it would soak and flood.  A
"new" float (actually a used one) fixed the problem.

Brad Hall
B3820000609LRXFE

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:16 PM
To: michael king
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb

I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after
~
3 decades of storage in a barn.

Current focus is on carburation.

It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.

Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a
restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It
looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of
bubbly
gas in the
bottom of the carb.

Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the
carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died and
would not re-start.

I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
and no way it would start.

About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I
drove
it onto the flatbed truck.

Does this make any sense to any one?

Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS
carb?

Allan
_______________________________________________
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From allanballard at att.net  Sat Jul 17 03:15:19 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 05:15:19 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
Message-ID: <03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>

Thanks everyone,

The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't know
whether they leak or if anything is
sticking.

Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok
...?

The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't
know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how
to tell?

There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb.

That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into the
system.  The fuel pump is a new reproduction of
the factory pump.

Allan



On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote:

> As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas.  If this
car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris.  If it is getting
past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not
allowing the float to close.  This might be the cause of the excess fuel.
>
> So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle &
seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a none
heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high.  Those would be the
first things to check.
>
> Tom _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sat Jul 17 05:26:07 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 07:26:07 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number
In-Reply-To: <407DF132C4334445836D74D27F2F0F89@Cobra>
Message-ID: <BC8C1557D7294C45847232B3454E0681@ronpc1>

Roland
	Original fan part number is C4JZ-8600-B; original hub part number is
B9ME-8553-A, a 1959 Mercury part.
The C4JZ number indicates it is a Ford Industrial Division supplied part.
My guess is that it is a Falcon part with the larger center hole.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of csx2282
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 10:41 PM
To: tigers
Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number


Hi all,

I'm trying to track down the part number and supplier of the original Tiger
water pump fans.  Perhaps there was more than one fan depending on the year
and model?  I would be interested in information on all of them.

Just to be clear, I'm not looking for an after market replacement or
alternatives, but info on the original fans.

Thanks,

Roland
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3009 - Release Date: 07/16/10
06:35:00

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Sat Jul 17 06:45:06 2010
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (garywinblad at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 12:45:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number
In-Reply-To: <BC8C1557D7294C45847232B3454E0681@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <19604685.148854.1279370706503.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hi Roland,

I have one on my Tiger if you want to see it.
But like Ron says, the Tiger has a "pushed back" hub so the center
hole of the fan is enlarged to 1", don't think Cobras have that.
BTW, even though it only has 4 blades, it really pushes a lot more
air than aftermarket flex fans, ask me how I know...

Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Fraser <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
To: 'csx2282' <csx2282 at sonic.net>, 'tigers' <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:26:07 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number

Roland
    Original fan part number is C4JZ-8600-B; original hub part number is
B9ME-8553-A, a 1959 Mercury part.
The C4JZ number indicates it is a Ford Industrial Division supplied part.
My guess is that it is a Falcon part with the larger center hole.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of csx2282
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 10:41 PM
To: tigers
Subject: [Tigers] Original Fan Part Number


Hi all,

I'm trying to track down the part number and supplier of the original Tiger
water pump fans.  Perhaps there was more than one fan depending on the year
and model?  I would be interested in information on all of them.

Just to be clear, I'm not looking for an after market replacement or
alternatives, but info on the original fans.

Thanks,

Roland

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sat Jul 17 07:08:37 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:08:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP
In-Reply-To: <E1OZuHe-0002Wf-8F@elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <6076F76215C74805B858A455C6DB31C1@ronpc1>

Norm
	That is the 1991 CAT calendar, Jan 1991.   Owner and photographer is
Michael Boulware, Arcadia, California.

Sorry I don't have a way to scan the picture.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Norman C. Miller
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2010 7:20 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP


I'm looking for someone who has a copy of an old CAT Club photo
calendar and can get me a high quality scan of the yellow Tiger
depicted here.  In case you don't recognize the youngsters, that's
Steve Sorenson on the left talking to Dan Walters.


http://szwaxa.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pGJ9Ue3z-S0_fK-eOrethIi8QB5mKxla_kj2MU
TmlSI8kfx3Zz_RePyVeKdWh3ATMiNLtYClMeRqhnG_vdjg_AcpOK57C5RJx/boulware-request
.jpg?psid=1

Thanks

Norm

From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul 17 07:42:17 2010
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 09:42:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" Carb
Message-ID: <4C41B339.4030302@roadrunner.com>

Allan:

I vote for a sticking float.  If it has been sitting for that long and 
you did not clean it out well, it would be remarkable if there were not 
some ancient residue in there.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

From wsamouce at kc.rr.com  Sat Jul 17 07:52:52 2010
From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 08:52:52 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach complete
In-Reply-To: <6076F76215C74805B858A455C6DB31C1@ronpc1>
References: <E1OZuHe-0002Wf-8F@elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<6076F76215C74805B858A455C6DB31C1@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <000501cb25b7$59bf6730$0d3e3590$@rr.com>

With some observations from Jim, I put the original needle on the tach and
it works great.

Check out the finish product -
http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/045.jpg

Love having the reliability of a modern tach.

Paul Breuhan did the silk screening of the auto meter face.

Duke
B382002037

From dave at munroe.ca  Sat Jul 17 08:28:12 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:28:12 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach complete
In-Reply-To: <000501cb25b7$59bf6730$0d3e3590$@rr.com>
References: <E1OZuHe-0002Wf-8F@elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net><6076F76215C74805B858A455C6DB31C1@ronpc1>
	<000501cb25b7$59bf6730$0d3e3590$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <E6E1A24929524CB8802543CB77AF3F53@DavePC>

Very impressive work, Duke.

And ditto to Paul.

Dave



Subject: [Tigers] AutoMeter Cobra 8000 Tach complete


> With some observations from Jim, I put the original needle on the tach and
> it works great.
>
> Check out the finish product -
> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/045.jpg
>
> Love having the reliability of a modern tach.
>
> Paul Breuhan did the silk screening of the auto meter face.
>
> Duke
> B382002037

From rootes1 at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 17 09:14:29 2010
From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman C. Miller)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 08:14:29 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] IMAGE HELP
In-Reply-To: <000901cb2585$517c2680$f4747380$@net>
References: <E1OZuHe-0002Wf-8F@elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<000901cb2585$517c2680$f4747380$@net>
Message-ID: <E1Oa966-0000mD-Ff@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Kirk,

Big thanks.  I knew someone would have this.

Norm

At 12:54 AM 7/17/2010, you wrote:
>Hi Norm,
>
>Just got home from work and saw your email.  I have that calendar.  Do you
>still need a scan, or did someone get it to you already?...snip..

From mark44124 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 17 10:43:15 2010
From: mark44124 at gmail.com (Mark44124)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 12:43:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <mailman.30327.1279374716.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ABEDIOPMGFPCKLEMKADNOEBFCOAA.mark44124@gmail.com>

I have had a lot of Holleys over the years, I choose to use them as really
cool paper weights now. If you need a good rebuild Ford 2100 get hold of
this character. I have bought several 2100 and a 4100 from him and they are
all good (hint - buy a bigger CFM one like a 1.14 or 1.23 for your Tiger).

http://stores.ebay.com/GOTTA-FISH-CARBURETORS

It really sounds like fuel boil over, but if it only takes 6 miles of
driving from cold start to shut-down, my bet is on either a bad float and/or
too much fuel pressure. Good hunting!

Bugz

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Sat Jul 17 10:50:23 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:50:23 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
Message-ID: <36629566E1574D3FAF338F7717E6D876@jerry>

Allan,


Drive the car for a while then shut it down. Then open the hood and watch to
see when and where the fuel is coming in from and pooling on top of the
butterflies.  It seems to me that if the fuel pressure was way too high you
wouldn't be able to drive 6 mi. it would be flooding from the start, or
running very rich.

I have been helping a friend with his 67 Shelby 350GT with a Paxton blower
and the rear floats (Holly) seemed to be sticking (gas everywhere).  I
removed both bowls didn't see any debris of any kind or sticking, put it
back together and it worked fine. Go figure.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

  


-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 4:15 AM
To: Thomas Witt
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb

Thanks everyone,

The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't
know
whether they leak or if anything is
sticking.

Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok
...?

The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't
know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how
to tell?

There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb.

That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into
the
system.  The fuel pump is a new reproduction of
the factory pump.

Allan



On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote:

> As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas.  If this
car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris.  If it is getting
past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not
allowing the float to close.  This might be the cause of the excess fuel.
>
> So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle &
seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a
none
heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high.  Those would be the
first things to check.
>
> Tom _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Sat Jul 17 12:00:37 2010
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 19:00:37 +0100
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>

i had issues with slowly sinking floats too.  its hard to reproduce but at
about 12 bucks for a new float its not worth guessing.

before installing a regulator, fuel pressure should be easy to just measure
with one of those cheap fluid filled mechanical gauges that go under the
bonnet.  take it out when you're done.  you need a gauge to set/check the
regulator anyhow.  i keep a mechanical gauge on a long line that can come
into the interior in my tool chest for testing/diagnosis.  actually two -
one for carbs and one higher range one for injection.

On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net>wrote:

> Thanks everyone,
>
> The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't
> know
> whether they leak or if anything is
> sticking.
>
> Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok
> ...?
>
> The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't
> know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how
> to tell?
>
> There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb.
>
> That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into
> the
> system.  The fuel pump is a new reproduction of
> the factory pump.
>
> Allan
>
>
>
> On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote:
>
> > As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas.  If
> this
> car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris.  If it is getting
> past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not
> allowing the float to close.  This might be the cause of the excess fuel.
> >
> > So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle &
> seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a
> none
> heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high.  Those would be
> the
> first things to check.
> >
> > Tom _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From allanballard at att.net  Sat Jul 17 12:36:40 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 14:36:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>

Thanks everyone.

I had planned to install a 4 bbl on a F4B manifold this winter but since the
Holly 2 bbl
became a problem, I moved up the 4 bbl installation to...next week.

I went by Summit Racing and picked up an Eldebrock Performance Carb, model
1404 with manual choke
and delivers 500 cfm.

The carb is new not remanufactured so it ought to work, right?

I am also moving the coil from the factory location on top of the intake
manifold near the gas line, to
a cooler and safer location near the generator.

Thanks again for your help,

Allan


On Jul 17, 2010, at 2:00 PM, Owain Lloyd wrote:

> i had issues with slowly sinking floats too.  its hard to reproduce but at
about 12 bucks for a new float its not worth guessing.
>
> before installing a regulator, fuel pressure should be easy to just measure
with one of those cheap fluid filled mechanical gauges that go under the
bonnet.  take it out when you're done.  you need a gauge to set/check the
regulator anyhow.  i keep a mechanical gauge on a long line that can come into
the interior in my tool chest for testing/diagnosis.  actually two - one for
carbs and one higher range one for injection.
>
> On Sat, Jul 17, 2010 at 10:15 AM, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net>
wrote:
> Thanks everyone,
>
> The fuel tanks have been redone; the floats are set correctly but I don't
know
> whether they leak or if anything is
> sticking.
>
> Since the the carb is new (remanufactured) hopefully the needle/seat is ok
> ...?
>
> The carb appears to have two spacers each about 1/2 inch thick but I don't
> know if either or both are non-heat absorbing---how
> to tell?
>
> There is a filter just prior to the fuel line connecting to the carb.
>
> That leaves fuel pressure; makes sense to insert a pressure regulator into
the
> system.  The fuel pump is a new reproduction of
> the factory pump.
>
> Allan
>
>
>
> On Jul 16, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Thomas Witt wrote:
>
> > As you said you drove a short 6 miles and there was bubbling gas.  If
this
> car sat for 30 years the gas tank may be full of debris.  If it is getting
> past the filter (is there a filter?) you could be having particles not
> allowing the float to close.  This might be the cause of the excess fuel.
> >
> > So, it is either the float bowls overfilling (particles in the needle &
> seat), overheating ( you need to insulate the carb from the intake with a
none
> heat absorbing spacer or your fuel pressure is too high.  Those would be
the
> first things to check.
> >
> > Tom _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Sat Jul 17 16:26:36 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 15:26:36 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
	<4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
	<068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
Message-ID: <4C422E1C.8010207@socal.rr.com>

Allan,

If the carb floats are sticking, or not shutting off when back-pressure 
is sensed by the fuel pump, it may starve the engine out, and leave an 
un-purged residue of gas.

I don't exactly understand what you mean by "a pool" of gas "inside the 
throat?"

Steve

With an F4B and quad 465 CFM Holley.

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Allan Ballard wrote:
> Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel?
>
>
> On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote:
>
>> Allan,
>>
>> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms?
>>
>> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything 
>> electrical was "it must be a loose wire" 
>>
>> <confused.gif>     (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations)
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> Steve Laifman
>>
>> Editor
>>
>> http://TigersUnited.com <http://TigersUnited.com/>
>>
>>
>>
>> Allan Ballard wrote:
>>> I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after ~
>>> 3 decades of storage in a barn.
>>>
>>> Current focus is on carburation.
>>>       

<====== snip ==========>

From allanballard at att.net  Sat Jul 17 16:49:41 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 18:49:41 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <4C422E1C.8010207@socal.rr.com>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
	<4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
	<068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
	<4C422E1C.8010207@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <E182F588-987A-42CA-8D65-4E6738B303C9@att.net>

Steve,

Sorry if I used less than the best terminology... :)

First let me say the fuel tanks have been professionally redone, and the Holly
is
a new <remanufactured> carb with less than 20 miles on it. I think the fuel
system is
pristine or close to it.

Between the Holly and the intake manifold are two metal spacers, each about
1.2 inch thick.

The fuel pump is a new re-pro from Classic Sunbeam, mounted in the stock
location.

To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location.

It has a filter just before the carb.

---With the air filter housing off, I simply looked down into the carb.

At the bottom of the carb was a pool of fuel that was bubbling.

A small minnow could swim in such a pool if it was water.

I assume the "bubbling" in reality was "boiling.'

The pool developed in two different circumstances.

First, while the car was parked after a run, and I was enjoying a restaurant
meal. I got
the engine cranked after much effort, but 2 blocks later -- pool of gas again
and that was that. Had to
call triple A.

The repair shop blamed the hot air choke mechanism, and replaced that part.

Shop then said car is ready and indeed it fired up and an ran great...for
about 6 miles.

Then it acted as if it was out of gas and died (had half a tank of gas).

I pushed it off the road, removed the air filter housing and...gas had pooled
again just as before.

After half an hour or so, I got it cranked and cancelled the tow.

Big mistake as it went a block then died again, also with the gas pooling in
the carb.

About that time I remembered cursing remanufactured Holly carbs back in the
day and decided to replace it
with the F4B intake and a 4bbl carb to match...Summit Racing had just what I
need...car is in the shop for an installation next week.

Normally I would do this myself but am recovering from a surgery and must not
use the left arm for a few more weeks...

Allan :
http://s826.photobucket.com/albums/zz184/allanballard/Sunbeam%20Tiger%20Mk1a/
stock

1966 Mk1a Tiger





On Jul 17, 2010, at 6:26 PM, Steve Laifman wrote:

> Allan,
>
> If the carb floats are sticking, or not shutting off when back-pressure is
sensed by the fuel pump, it may starve the engine out, and leave an un-purged
residue of gas.
>
> I don't exactly understand what you mean by "a pool" of gas "inside the
throat?"
>
> Steve
>
> With an F4B and quad 465 CFM Holley.
>
> Steve
>
> Steve Laifman
> Editor
> http://TigersUnited.com
>
>
> Allan Ballard wrote:
>>
>> Fuel pump meaning pumping too much fuel?
>>
>>
>> On Jul 16, 2010, at 9:30 PM, Steve Laifman wrote:
>>
>>> Allan,
>>>
>>> Do you think, maybe, that it is the SU fuel pump causing your symptoms?
>>>
>>> If the ignition were cutting out, my father's solution to everything
electrical was "it must be a loose wire"
>>>
>>> <confused.gif>     (icon may be deleted by List Mail limitations)
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>
>>> Steve Laifman
>>> Editor
>>> http://TigersUnited.com
>>>
>>>
>>> Allan Ballard wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets
after ~
>>>> 3 decades of storage in a barn.
>>>>
>>>> Current focus is on carburation.
>>>>
>
> <====== snip ==========>

From mai65tai at sonic.net  Sat Jul 17 17:42:18 2010
From: mai65tai at sonic.net (John Stithem)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 16:42:18 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 326
In-Reply-To: <mailman.30129.1279332740.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.30129.1279332740.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001201cb2609$b1bff6a0$153fe3e0$@net>

If you have an aftermarket fuel pump, you may need to either adjust the
pressure down or put a fuel pressure regulator in line. If the fuel pressure
is too high it will overflow the float bowls flood the carb.

John



Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 20:15:43 -0400
From: Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net>
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb

I m sorting my stock  MK1a Tiger, trying to get it back on the streets after
~
3 decades of storage in a barn.

Current focus is on carburation.

It has a remanufactured Holly to replace a worn-out Motorcraft 2-bbl.

Recently it was running pretty good but after I parked it to eat supper at a
restaurant recently, upon return to the car it would not start. It
looked flooded; I looked down the throat and saw aboutS a half inch of
bubbly
gas in the
bottom of the carb.

Subsequently shop guys replaced the choke spring mechanism, pronounced the
carb to be  cured but 6 miles later in Atlanta traffic it
died with the same symptoms.  It acted as it was out of gas then died and
would not re-start.

I pushed it to the side of the road, popped the hood and looked down the
carb--another a pool of bubbly gas down there
and no way it would start.

About 90 minutes later the tow truck arrived and the Sunbeam ranked so I
drove
it onto the flatbed truck.

Does this make any sense to any one?

Is there any way the coil could overheat and cause this--or do I have a POS
carb?

Allan

From marcsmall at comcast.net  Sat Jul 17 19:20:06 2010
From: marcsmall at comcast.net (Marc James Small)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 21:20:06 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <E182F588-987A-42CA-8D65-4E6738B303C9@att.net>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
	<4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
	<068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
	<4C422E1C.8010207@socal.rr.com>
	<E182F588-987A-42CA-8D65-4E6738B303C9@att.net>
Message-ID: <20100718012046.CA89318763E@autox.team.net>

At 06:49 PM 7/17/2010, Allan Ballard wrote:

 >To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location.
 >

Has the fuel line been replaced?

Marc


msmall at aya.yale.edu
Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!

From allanballard at att.net  Sun Jul 18 01:19:18 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 03:19:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <E182F588-987A-42CA-8D65-4E6738B303C9@att.net>
References: <2cc1d.3455fc4.3970bf84@aol.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A0495484C@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<BAY119-DS99536A4ED99FFD1AA48B4C1BB0@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTikDmpkCxFlbStgSgFratbmJMUZNExQDGogUSjjy@mail.gmail.com>
	<77F655E6-B4A8-4225-9935-0BBE2267142E@att.net>
	<4C4107BE.4020109@socal.rr.com>
	<068F2520-E827-435A-86CE-FA5A54CE2BC6@att.net>
	<4C422E1C.8010207@socal.rr.com>
	<E182F588-987A-42CA-8D65-4E6738B303C9@att.net>
Message-ID: <462D3758-140D-461A-971F-56015F58749A@att.net>

no...


On Jul 17, 2010, at 9:20 PM, Marc James Small wrote:

> At 06:49 PM 7/17/2010, Allan Ballard wrote:
>
> >To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location.
> >
>
> Has the fuel line been replaced?
>
> Marc
>
>
> msmall at aya.yale.edu
> Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Sun Jul 18 06:12:08 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 08:12:08 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <462D3758-140D-461A-971F-56015F58749A@att.net>
Message-ID: <C86867D8.3F8A%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Incidentally...   When installing the 289 engine, I had my first good look
at my fuel line. All the metal pipes look good and all the rubber hoses were
new.  Or so I thought.  I was truly shocked to find a 3.5 to 4 inch length
of really ratty, hardened, cloth covered fuel hose with the original double
wire hose bands on it. I think this was a factory bit. Just moving the fuel
line downward caused this to-this-point-unknown bit of fuel hose to crack.
It would certainly have leaked if I had not replaced it. This piece of hose
was just aft of the starter and conjoins two metal pipes.  Just FYI.  M


On 7/18/10 3:19 AM, "Allan Ballard" <allanballard at att.net> wrote:

> no...
> 
> 
> On Jul 17, 2010, at 9:20 PM, Marc James Small wrote:
> 
>> At 06:49 PM 7/17/2010, Allan Ballard wrote:
>> 
>>> To my knowledge, the fuel line remains in the factory location.
>>> 
>> 
>> Has the fuel line been replaced?
>> 
>> Marc
>> 
>> 
>> msmall at aya.yale.edu
>> Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir!
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Jul 18 08:34:13 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 10:34:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <C86867D8.3F8A%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <268D7D20EBF74C208C507EBD851F4614@ronpc1>

M
	Yes, that is the factory hose and clamps.   It does get exposed to
heat cycles and weather so it is something everyone should inspect on a
regular basis as should all the rubber hoses.

If you still have that hose and clamps about; I would like to see a picture.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:12 AM
To: Allan Ballard; Marc James Small
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb


Incidentally...   When installing the 289 engine, I had my first good look
at my fuel line. All the metal pipes look good and all the rubber hoses were
new.  Or so I thought.  I was truly shocked to find a 3.5 to 4 inch length
of really ratty, hardened, cloth covered fuel hose with the original double
wire hose bands on it. I think this was a factory bit. Just moving the fuel
line downward caused this to-this-point-unknown bit of fuel hose to crack.
It would certainly have leaked if I had not replaced it. This piece of hose
was just aft of the starter and conjoins two metal pipes.  Just FYI.  M

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Sun Jul 18 12:47:13 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 11:47:13 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <C868712D.3F8E%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <C868712D.3F8E%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4C434C31.8000305@socal.rr.com>

Thanks for your post, Mc Dangerous (M), and Allan,

I remembered that I, too, had some fiddling to do with the F4B/Holley 
installation. There was no tube on the carburettor to a attach to the 
distributer vacuum advance port. The available gaskets, with such a 
port, would stick the air filter through the LAT hood.

This wouldn't influence those that replaced the distributor with one 
that does not have vacuum advance. I wanted it "stock" but put the 
"Ignitor" kit in and had the advance curve tuned to the car with spring 
replacement.

So, I took the easiest approach possible. I replaced the carburettor 
butterfly lower unit with a new replacement part that did have a vacuum 
port.

No hood banging, and easy adaption. The thinnest composite gaskets with 
a vacuum port I could find were still too thick.

While then, a carb parts source would still have new pieces. Now, they 
probably have used pieces. Watch the shaft wear on used units.

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Would U. Believe wrote:
> Allan,
>
> Bottom line up front:  I would suggest you find and buy a Mustang Boss 302
> phenolic carburetor spacer (or any other thin phenolic spacer) with a vacuum
> port and try that.  Here's why...
>
> When I adopted my Tiger, it had a very heavy cast iron Ford four barrel
> intake manifold and a Holley 600CFM carburetor on it.  Sandwiched between
> these parts was a one inch thick aluminum spacer with a vacuum port.  One of
> the first things I did was to change over to an F4B and a 465 CFM
> carburetor.  Immediately, I noticed was that with the F4B being much taller
> than the Ford intake, the carburetor would not fit under the hood with the
> one-inch spacer.  So I eliminated the carb spacer.  You guessed it...the
> result was that I had the very same symptoms as the ones you describe.

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Sun Jul 18 15:30:50 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 17:30:50 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <4C434C31.8000305@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <C868EACA.3F99%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Steve,

I like to remain as stock as possible too.  Interestingly, the 465 CFM carb
I bought last year has a vacuum port for the distributor advance built into
the side just forward of the automatic heat activated choke.  It also has a
hot air tube that runs from the right hand exhaust manifold to the
carburetor for the automatic choke.  The port in the phenolic spacer is used
for...I can9t remember off the top of my head!  Anyway, I will be happy when
I9ve finalized the installation of the 289 and get this thing cranked over.
I plan to crank it with no gas or spark just to get the oil pressure up and
oil well distributed before I can finally start it.  As a short cut, I9ve
temporarily installed the old generator so that I can have a little positive
reinforcement and get the engine started.  I can9t bear the thought of
re-wiring this thing for the alternator.

I had a hiccup yesterday with an exhaust manifold I bought from a fellow
Lister.  One of the 3ears2 where a stud or bolt goes just cracked off!  This
forced me to lose a bunch of time to uninstall it and use another one
temporarily.  I9ll have to find a replacement manifold (right hand)
somewhere...  What a bummer!  Maybe the guy has another one for me.

Cheers to everyone.  M


On 7/18/10 2:47 PM, "Steve Laifman" <slaifman at socal.rr.com> wrote:

> Thanks for your post, Mc Dangerous (M), and Allan,
>
> I remembered that I, too, had some fiddling to do with the F4B/Holley
> installation.  There was no tube on the carburettor  to a  attach to the
> distributer vacuum advance port.  The available gaskets, with such a port,
> would stick the air filter through the  LAT hood.
>
> This  wouldn't influence those that replaced the distributor with one that
> does not have vacuum advance.  I wanted it "stock" but put the "Ignitor"
kit
> in and had the advance curve tuned to the car with spring replacement.
>
> So, I took the easiest approach possible. I replaced the carburettor
butterfly
> lower unit with a new replacement part that did have a vacuum port.
>
> No hood banging, and easy adaption.  The thinnest composite gaskets with a
> vacuum port I could find were still too thick.
>
> While then, a carb parts source would still have new pieces.  Now, they
> probably have used pieces. Watch the shaft wear on used units.
>
> Steve
>
> Steve Laifman
>
> Editor
>
> http://TigersUnited.com
>
>
> Would U. Believe wrote:
>>
>> Allan,
>>
>> Bottom line up front:  I would suggest you find and buy a Mustang Boss 302
>> phenolic carburetor spacer (or any other thin phenolic spacer) with a
vacuum
>> port and try that.  Here's why...
>>
>> When I adopted my Tiger, it had a very heavy cast iron Ford four barrel
>> intake manifold and a Holley 600CFM carburetor on it.  Sandwiched between
>> these parts was a one inch thick aluminum spacer with a vacuum port.  One
of
>> the first things I did was to change over to an F4B and a 465 CFM
>> carburetor.  Immediately, I noticed was that with the F4B being much
taller
>> than the Ford intake, the carburetor would not fit under the hood with the
>> one-inch spacer.  So I eliminated the carb spacer.  You guessed it...the
>> result was that I had the very same symptoms as the ones you describe.

From deiland1 at elp.rr.com  Sun Jul 18 16:41:07 2010
From: deiland1 at elp.rr.com (Dan Eiland)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 16:41:07 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Test Message
Message-ID: <09D4C29946B147D4A5905C7E17186EE2@yourae066c3a9b>

I'm in the process of moving from my old computer, built in the times of
Moses, to a newer computer built more recently. I'm trying to move my address
book from my old computer to my new computer and set up new folders for my car
lists. Just wondering if my emails are going through? I'm receiving just not
sure if I'm sending yet.

Dan Eiland
El Paso, TX

From deiland1 at elp.rr.com  Sun Jul 18 17:04:06 2010
From: deiland1 at elp.rr.com (Dan Eiland)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 17:04:06 -0600
Subject: [Tigers] Test All Confirmed, Thanks Everyone
Message-ID: <F268B533E473447B8A4A2AB659DDD55F@yourae066c3a9b>

Have now received confirmation from each list that I'm getting through, thanks
for helping.

Dan Eiland
El Paso, TX

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Sun Jul 18 18:19:59 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:19:59 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] B9471586LRXFE
Message-ID: <AANLkTimbqZwYjlaaq4ZKG-I4Z8Jff62MklvOAPCVJW86@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know anything about car B9471586LRXFE, it may have been owned by
Rich Tuttle of New Jersey in mid 2000's? Any history before or after would
be appreciated.

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From stubrennan at comcast.net  Sun Jul 18 18:28:40 2010
From: stubrennan at comcast.net (Stu Brennan)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 20:28:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] TE/AE United Tech Sessions
Message-ID: <000501cb26d9$568f4620$6601a8c0@Brennan>

Hi Gang:
 
We are looking for tech session presenters for the Tigers East/Alpines
East United in Rockland, Maine this October.  Sorry to bomb the list,
but so far requests in our newsletter and on our forum have not turned
up many volunteers.
 
Here's you chance to impress your friends with your expertise, show off
that clever little trick you discovered, and enjoy that warm feeling you
get when you know you have help others. All we need is a 10 or 15 minute
presentation, which is not at all as fearsome as is sounds.  We'll have
a LCD projector available, and may even have room to bring a car inside
for a quick demo.  
 
We also may assemble a panel of experts for a question and answer
session, volunteers needed here, too.
 
So Step Up, TE/AE!  United 2010 Needs You!  Contact me with your
generous offers of assistance.
 
Stu Brennan
stubrennan at comcast.net
Tech Session Coordinator
United 2010

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Sun Jul 18 18:55:34 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 20:55:34 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <4C434C31.8000305@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <C8691AC6.3F9E%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

Oh, I think the vacuum port in the phenolic spacer under the carb goes to
the PCV valve on the right valve cover...


On 7/18/10 2:47 PM, "Steve Laifman" <slaifman at socal.rr.com> wrote:

> Thanks for your post, Mc Dangerous (M), and Allan,
> 
> I remembered that I, too, had some fiddling to do with the F4B/Holley
> installation.  There was no tube on the carburettor  to a  attach to the
> distributer vacuum advance port.  The available gaskets, with such a port,
> would stick the air filter through the  LAT hood.
> 
> This  wouldn't influence those that replaced the distributor with one that
> does not have vacuum advance.  I wanted it "stock" but put the "Ignitor" kit
> in and had the advance curve tuned to the car with spring replacement.
> 
> So, I took the easiest approach possible. I replaced the carburettor butterfly
> lower unit with a new replacement part that did have a vacuum port.
> 
> No hood banging, and easy adaption.  The thinnest composite gaskets with a
> vacuum port I could find were still too thick.
> 
> While then, a carb parts source would still have new pieces.  Now, they
> probably have used pieces. Watch the shaft wear on used units.
> 
> Steve
> 
> Steve Laifman
> 
> Editor
> 
> http://TigersUnited.com
> 
> 
> Would U. Believe wrote:
>>  
>> Allan,
>> 
>> Bottom line up front:  I would suggest you find and buy a Mustang Boss 302
>> phenolic carburetor spacer (or any other thin phenolic spacer) with a vacuum
>> port and try that.  Here's why...
>> 
>> When I adopted my Tiger, it had a very heavy cast iron Ford four barrel
>> intake manifold and a Holley 600CFM carburetor on it.  Sandwiched between
>> these parts was a one inch thick aluminum spacer with a vacuum port.  One of
>> the first things I did was to change over to an F4B and a 465 CFM
>> carburetor.  Immediately, I noticed was that with the F4B being much taller
>> than the Ford intake, the carburetor would not fit under the hood with the
>> one-inch spacer.  So I eliminated the carb spacer.  You guessed it...the
>> result was that I had the very same symptoms as the ones you describe.

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Jul 18 19:07:05 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 21:07:05 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <C868EACA.3F99%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <B3DC130BFAE14088B8604B7EAB19AE58@ronpc1>

M
	Port in the phenolic spacer, must be a Boss 302 part, is for the PCV
hose.

Converting to an alternator is not that hard unless you are going for the MK
II stock look which would really require buying a MK II wire harness and the
correct relays and parts.  I did write up an article "Alternator conversions
for Dummies" and I am a dummy when it come to many electrical things.   The
wiring will look stock for a MK I but with an alternator.

Cast Iron exhaust manifolds can be welded.  I had to clean an clear the
threads in the manifold then made a brass bolt
to put in the threads and welded the crack with cast iron welding rod.  The
hard part was finding a welding supply shop that had cast iron welding rod
in stock that day.

Ron Fraser



-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Would U. Believe
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 5:31 PM
To: Steve Laifman
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb


Steve,

I like to remain as stock as possible too.  Interestingly, the 465 CFM carb
I bought last year has a vacuum port for the distributor advance built into
the side just forward of the automatic heat activated choke.  It also has a
hot air tube that runs from the right hand exhaust manifold to the
carburetor for the automatic choke.  The port in the phenolic spacer is used
for...I can9t remember off the top of my head!  Anyway, I will be happy when
I9ve finalized the installation of the 289 and get this thing cranked over.
I plan to crank it with no gas or spark just to get the oil pressure up and
oil well distributed before I can finally start it.  As a short cut, I9ve
temporarily installed the old generator so that I can have a little positive
reinforcement and get the engine started.  I can9t bear the thought of
re-wiring this thing for the alternator.

I had a hiccup yesterday with an exhaust manifold I bought from a fellow
Lister.  One of the 3ears2 where a stud or bolt goes just cracked off!  This
forced me to lose a bunch of time to uninstall it and use another one
temporarily.  I9ll have to find a replacement manifold (right hand)
somewhere...  What a bummer!  Maybe the guy has another one for me.

Cheers to everyone.  M

From allanballard at att.net  Mon Jul 19 06:37:18 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 08:37:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid
In-Reply-To: <B3DC130BFAE14088B8604B7EAB19AE58@ronpc1>
References: <B3DC130BFAE14088B8604B7EAB19AE58@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <E634365B-BDBB-4ED3-86FE-DD7CB4D68F07@att.net>

I have my servo off the car--it's being mailed to a rebuilder.

I see that the starter solenoid is mounted *beneath* the servo...

Once the booster goes back on...when/if the solenoid fails the servo will
have to be removed in order to replace the solenoid.

Having to open the brake lines to do an emergency roadside solenoid repair is
not the best idea.

So I'm thinking of relocating the solenoid---but to where?

Where is the "best" location?

Perhaps in the firewall to chassis corner on the driver's side similar to the
Alpine?

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 19 06:56:49 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 08:56:49 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid
In-Reply-To: <E634365B-BDBB-4ED3-86FE-DD7CB4D68F07@att.net>
References: <B3DC130BFAE14088B8604B7EAB19AE58@ronpc1>
	<E634365B-BDBB-4ED3-86FE-DD7CB4D68F07@att.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimJt6_Eds--YMV9w62cNYkjirg8LotFHaWlofg7@mail.gmail.com>

Allan,

You can replace the solenoid without having to remove the  servo. I've done
it; it's a bit tight but not difficult at all.

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 8:37 AM, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:

> I have my servo off the car--it's being mailed to a rebuilder.
>
> I see that the starter solenoid is mounted *beneath* the servo...
>
> Once the booster goes back on...when/if the solenoid fails the servo will
> have to be removed in order to replace the solenoid.
>
> Having to open the brake lines to do an emergency roadside solenoid repair
> is
> not the best idea.
>
> So I'm thinking of relocating the solenoid---but to where?
>
> Where is the "best" location?
>
> Perhaps in the firewall to chassis corner on the driver's side similar to
> the
> Alpine?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From racetig at verizon.net  Mon Jul 19 09:22:18 2010
From: racetig at verizon.net (Rob)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:22:18 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Need a part
Message-ID: <791833793.706049.1279552938090.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>


From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Mon Jul 19 10:13:25 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 11:13:25 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Need a part
In-Reply-To: <791833793.706049.1279552938090.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <791833793.706049.1279552938090.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CBD353@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

I've got some. Can you be more specific?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob
> Sent: July 19, 2010 9:22 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Need a part
>
>


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Mon Jul 19 11:14:40 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 12:14:40 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid
In-Reply-To: <E634365B-BDBB-4ED3-86FE-DD7CB4D68F07@att.net>
References: <B3DC130BFAE14088B8604B7EAB19AE58@ronpc1>
	<E634365B-BDBB-4ED3-86FE-DD7CB4D68F07@att.net>
Message-ID: <2730381834284BC292481FE197D46B91@jerry>

Go out and buy a high quality solenoid (Blue Streak by Standard is a good
one) and put it in before you get the servo back.  They usually last for
many many years anyway. Like Tom said it is possible to change one out with
the servo in.  

One suggestion I would have is to replace the #4 battey cable with #2 cable
it will allow far more current to the starter. I think I bought 15 ft of it
when I did mine (#2 welding cable). Be sure to use the #2 size for
EVERYTHING (batt to solenoid, solenoid to starter, and engine to frame and
of course batt to ground). It makes a big difference.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 7:37 AM
To: rfraser at bluefrog.com
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid

I have my servo off the car--it's being mailed to a rebuilder.

I see that the starter solenoid is mounted *beneath* the servo...

Once the booster goes back on...when/if the solenoid fails the servo will
have to be removed in order to replace the solenoid.

Having to open the brake lines to do an emergency roadside solenoid repair
is
not the best idea.

So I'm thinking of relocating the solenoid---but to where?

Where is the "best" location?

Perhaps in the firewall to chassis corner on the driver's side similar to
the
Alpine?
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From mark.rense at ge.com  Mon Jul 19 11:40:54 2010
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd))
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 13:40:54 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2><03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net><AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

Allan,
The "little" Edelbrock is a great choice for a mild 260/289. I have had
a 1403 (electric choke version) on one of my cars for seven years
without issues. I wound up changing the needle and spring combination on
the primaries and one step smaller jets in the secondaries to lean it
out slightly. Your engine may/will have different needs, especially if
you have tubular headers and a lumpy cam. I like them so much I just
bought a 1406 (600 CFM Electric choke) carb for my stroker project.

Buy the tuning calibration kit (part # 1486), it has all you need to get
the mixture dialed in. The stock SU fuel pump is marginal for this size
carb, I could drain the bowls on a hard third/fourth gear pull. I
switched to a Holley Red Head fuel pump and that cured the delivery
issue.

Be sure to carefully check your stack-up height with your new manifold,
some engine mounts are taller than others and with a F4B in place your
air cleaner might be interfering with the hood. Swipe some Playdoh from
the brat next door, put a ball of it onto the air cleaner and carefully
close your hood. You need a minimum of 1/4" clearance, more is better. I
had to go to a flathead screw for my air cleaner to gain enough room.

Have fun, go fast!

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Ballard
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 2:37 PM
To: owain.lloyd at gmail.com
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb

Thanks everyone.

I had planned to install a 4 bbl on a F4B manifold this winter but since
the Holly 2 bbl became a problem, I moved up the 4 bbl installation
to...next week.

I went by Summit Racing and picked up an Eldebrock Performance Carb,
model
1404 with manual choke
and delivers 500 cfm.

The carb is new not remanufactured so it ought to work, right?

I am also moving the coil from the factory location on top of the intake
manifold near the gas line, to a cooler and safer location near the
generator.

Thanks again for your help,

Allan

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Mon Jul 19 11:57:27 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 10:57:27 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2><03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net><AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <4C449207.60309@mayfco.com>

Another thought on measuring clearances... on the Sunbeam Salt Flats 
race car, everything is hand made with no clearances. My measuring 
technique is to grab a roll of aluminum foil, make a baseball size wad 
of it (loosly waded and rounded) and put it where I want to measure. 
Close the hood, door, deck lid, etc gently and firmly and viola! A good 
frame of reference for clearances. All without robbing the kid next door 
of his playdoh or modeling clay... And it holds angles as well. No 
sagging.  Can be used to measure other clearances as wll.

mayf
Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote:

>Allan,
>The "little" Edelbrock is a great choice for a mild 260/289. I have had
>a 1403 (electric choke version) on one of my cars for seven years
>without issues. I wound up changing the needle and spring combination on
>the primaries and one step smaller jets in the secondaries to lean it
>out slightly. Your engine may/will have different needs, especially if
>you have tubular headers and a lumpy cam. I like them so much I just
>bought a 1406 (600 CFM Electric choke) carb for my stroker project.
>
>Buy the tuning calibration kit (part # 1486), it has all you need to get
>the mixture dialed in. The stock SU fuel pump is marginal for this size
>carb, I could drain the bowls on a hard third/fourth gear pull. I
>switched to a Holley Red Head fuel pump and that cured the delivery
>issue.
>
>Be sure to carefully check your stack-up height with your new manifold,
>some engine mounts are taller than others and with a F4B in place your
>air cleaner might be interfering with the hood. Swipe some Playdoh from
>the brat next door, put a ball of it onto the air cleaner and carefully
>close your hood. You need a minimum of 1/4" clearance, more is better. I
>had to go to a flathead screw for my air cleaner to gain enough room.
>
>Have fun, go fast!
>
>Bugz
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Allan Ballard
>Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 2:37 PM
>To: owain.lloyd at gmail.com
>Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb
>
>Thanks everyone.
>
>I had planned to install a 4 bbl on a F4B manifold this winter but since
>the Holly 2 bbl became a problem, I moved up the 4 bbl installation
>to...next week.
>
>I went by Summit Racing and picked up an Eldebrock Performance Carb,
>model
>1404 with manual choke
>and delivers 500 cfm.
>
>The carb is new not remanufactured so it ought to work, right?
>
>I am also moving the coil from the factory location on top of the intake
>manifold near the gas line, to a cooler and safer location near the
>generator.
>
>Thanks again for your help,
>
>Allan
>_______________________________________________
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com

From dave at munroe.ca  Mon Jul 19 12:04:19 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:04:19 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2><03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net><AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com><E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <D0B43FA7722C424C97F6A469E4E777BA@DavePC>

Hey Bugz:

The 1403 Edelbrock w electric choke is the carb I put on my stroker 331.

The engine had a bit of hesitation going uphill on part throttle, and the 
tuning grid in the manual recommended specific changes which were possible 
using the tuning kit you recommended. These changes were spot on, and the 
hesitation disappeared.

As a bonus, my gas mileage went from  12 mpg to 25 mpg (Canadian Gallon) on 
long (1500 mile) trips, so you can imagine how much my ancient 600 cfm 
Holley was leaking.

BTW, on the dyno I got 317 hp @ 5200 rpm, with the torque running from 345 
to 349 ft lbs from 3,000 to 5,000 rpm. Flat as the desert in Az. Awesome 
street engine.

Its a great carb!

Dave



----- Original Message ----- 

Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb


> Allan,
> The "little" Edelbrock is a great choice for a mild 260/289. I have had
> a 1403 (electric choke version) on one of my cars for seven years
> without issues. I wound up changing the needle and spring combination on
> the primaries and one step smaller jets in the secondaries to lean it
> out slightly. Your engine may/will have different needs, especially if
> you have tubular headers and a lumpy cam. I like them so much I just
> bought a 1406 (600 CFM Electric choke) carb for my stroker project.
>
> Buy the tuning calibration kit (part # 1486), it has all you need to get
> the mixture dialed in. The stock SU fuel pump is marginal for this size
> carb, I could drain the bowls on a hard third/fourth gear pull. I
> switched to a Holley Red Head fuel pump and that cured the delivery
> issue.
>
> Be sure to carefully check your stack-up height with your new manifold,
> some engine mounts are taller than others and with a F4B in place your
> air cleaner might be interfering with the hood. Swipe some Playdoh from
> the brat next door, put a ball of it onto the air cleaner and carefully
> close your hood. You need a minimum of 1/4" clearance, more is better. I
> had to go to a flathead screw for my air cleaner to gain enough room.
>
> Have fun, go fast!
>
> Bugz

From mark.rense at ge.com  Mon Jul 19 12:05:50 2010
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd))
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:05:50 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <4C449207.60309@mayfco.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2><03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net><AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<4C449207.60309@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE590@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

Well yes, that could work as well, but did you consider the hysteretic
rebound factor upon compressive unload? It is significantly less for
Play-Doh (assuming, of course, the slump factor is constant)!

I would need to see your data.

:>)

Bugz

-----Original Message-----
From: drmayf [mailto:drmayf at mayfco.com]
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 1:57 PM
To: Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)
Cc: Allan Ballard; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb

Another thought on measuring clearances... on the Sunbeam Salt Flats
race car, everything is hand made with no clearances. My measuring
technique is to grab a roll of aluminum foil, make a baseball size wad
of it (loosly waded and rounded) and put it where I want to measure.
Close the hood, door, deck lid, etc gently and firmly and viola! A good
frame of reference for clearances. All without robbing the kid next door
of his playdoh or modeling clay... And it holds angles as well. No
sagging.  Can be used to measure other clearances as wll.

mayf
Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote:

>Allan,
>The "little" Edelbrock is a great choice for a mild 260/289. I have had

>a 1403 (electric choke version) on one of my cars for seven years
>without issues. I wound up changing the needle and spring combination
>on the primaries and one step smaller jets in the secondaries to lean
>it out slightly. Your engine may/will have different needs, especially
>if you have tubular headers and a lumpy cam. I like them so much I just

>bought a 1406 (600 CFM Electric choke) carb for my stroker project.
>
>Buy the tuning calibration kit (part # 1486), it has all you need to
>get the mixture dialed in. The stock SU fuel pump is marginal for this
>size carb, I could drain the bowls on a hard third/fourth gear pull. I
>switched to a Holley Red Head fuel pump and that cured the delivery
>issue.
>
>Be sure to carefully check your stack-up height with your new manifold,

>some engine mounts are taller than others and with a F4B in place your
>air cleaner might be interfering with the hood. Swipe some Playdoh from

>the brat next door, put a ball of it onto the air cleaner and carefully

>close your hood. You need a minimum of 1/4" clearance, more is better.
>I had to go to a flathead screw for my air cleaner to gain enough room.
>
>Have fun, go fast!
>
>Bugz
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Allan Ballard
>Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 2:37 PM
>To: owain.lloyd at gmail.com
>Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb
>
>Thanks everyone.
>
>I had planned to install a 4 bbl on a F4B manifold this winter but
>since the Holly 2 bbl became a problem, I moved up the 4 bbl
>installation to...next week.
>
>I went by Summit Racing and picked up an Eldebrock Performance Carb,
>model
>1404 with manual choke
>and delivers 500 cfm.
>
>The carb is new not remanufactured so it ought to work, right?
>
>I am also moving the coil from the factory location on top of the
>intake manifold near the gas line, to a cooler and safer location near
>the generator.
>
>Thanks again for your help,
>
>Allan
>_______________________________________________
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com

From mark.rense at ge.com  Mon Jul 19 12:37:35 2010
From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd))
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:37:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <4C449AD6.2020206@mayfco.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2><03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net><AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<4C449207.60309@mayfco.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE590@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<4C449AD6.2020206@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE633@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>

Curses...foiled again!

-----Original Message-----
From: drmayf [mailto:drmayf at mayfco.com]
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 2:35 PM
To: Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb

Ahh, Mark, but of course! I used special relativity tensor analysis
methods with special boundary conditons relating to the chaotic folding
of the ultra tin foil (actually, the foil can be better represented by
the multi universe parallel string model, but that is for another day).
Those analyses showed  that the stresses within the foil is
multidirectional, up to 11 dimensions and that they balance to zero. for
the same reasons there is thermal stability and using the new fourth law
of thermodynamics: "if it fits, it fits", I show that the clearances are
exact. Playdoh on the other hand is an analog for the cosmic expanion
goo and we all know, don't we, that the stuff is always expanding and
causing a mess of any predictive calculations for clearances. Stress are
non linear in all directions as well including the time dimension.  Plus
when the kid you stole it from in the first place is screaming bloody
murder and you have to give it back before the father, a well known NFL
linebacker, come over to put knots on your head, you loose the valuable
reference you just worked hard to acquire...

that's why I use foil... I don't like knots on my head....

mayf

Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote:

>Well yes, that could work as well, but did you consider the hysteretic
>rebound factor upon compressive unload? It is significantly less for
>Play-Doh (assuming, of course, the slump factor is constant)!
>
>I would need to see your data.
>
>:>)
>
>Bugz

From TIGEROOTES at aol.com  Mon Jul 19 12:42:23 2010
From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com (TIGEROOTES at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:42:23 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid
Message-ID: <abb81.30d43c0a.3975f68f@aol.com>

Allan,

I moved my solenoid inside the car using the same captive nuts in the 
firewall.  Now, it's hidden under the 'false-floor' plate.

Jim Leach    Pacific Tiger Club  Seattle

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Mon Jul 19 13:33:31 2010
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:33:31 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Need a part
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CBD353@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <791833793.706049.1279552938090.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840595CBD353@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <002701cb2779$45f08db0$d1d1a910$@com>

All,

Rob R. emailed earlier with an empty message body due to a technical
difficulty posting messages to the list, but I spoke with him off line. He
is looking for what I would have called defroster vent plates, the sheet
metal slotted openings above the dash and below the windshield, got the
little screws holding them in place on both ends of the plate.... He is
waiting to install his windshield when he has these parts in hand, and cant
find his or doesn't have the set he thought he did. He says he has trouble
getting through to the list, and I recall from past posts that he does. If
you have a pair of these you can spare, email him directly or if you can't
reach him you can email me and I for some reason have no trouble getting to
him.

Cullen

From allanballard at att.net  Mon Jul 19 13:34:11 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:34:11 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid
In-Reply-To: <abb81.30d43c0a.3975f68f@aol.com>
References: <abb81.30d43c0a.3975f68f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <69CB47A3-6AF0-4871-8AC5-D3555063C0DD@att.net>

Great idea!!!!

Allan

On Jul 19, 2010, at 2:42 PM, TIGEROOTES at aol.com wrote:

> Allan,
>
> I moved my solenoid inside the car using the same captive nuts in the
> firewall.  Now, it's hidden under the 'false-floor' plate.
>
> Jim Leach    Pacific Tiger Club  Seattle
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From allanballard at att.net  Mon Jul 19 13:52:05 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:52:05 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE633@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2><03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net><AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE522@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<4C449207.60309@mayfco.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE590@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
	<4C449AD6.2020206@mayfco.com>
	<D9A0D0B7EA17564892B2C3A1AB0BB72A049FE633@CINMLVEM20.e2k.ad.ge.com>
Message-ID: <D0DD8DE3-5066-4CA0-90DD-5A67A6C25D46@att.net>

My Edelbrock F4B manifold has the center piece of the area for "carburetor
barrels" lowered a bit.

I read that this will add 6 or 7 BHP...

When installing the carb, does the spacer also need to have the center section
removed or does the spacer configuration make no difference?

Allan

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 19 15:40:37 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 17:40:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid
In-Reply-To: <2730381834284BC292481FE197D46B91@jerry>
References: <B3DC130BFAE14088B8604B7EAB19AE58@ronpc1>
	<E634365B-BDBB-4ED3-86FE-DD7CB4D68F07@att.net>
	<2730381834284BC292481FE197D46B91@jerry>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimk9cWdKSDaTYLb4LvumKxtu8vRZaVKzhQ73-pc@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Jerry!

Another thought if you want to spend the bucks: install a late Mustang 302
"mini"-starter. It draws less current than the big starter, and It has a
solenoid on the starter, so the original starter solenoid is used only to
"pick" the solenoid mounted on the starter. The current load on the firewall
mounted solenoid is much much lower, and the firewall mounted solenoid
should last forever.  And if you ever want to add headers, the smaller
starter is easier to remove.

Tom

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 1:14 PM, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <
JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net> wrote:

> Go out and buy a high quality solenoid (Blue Streak by Standard is a good
> one) and put it in before you get the servo back.  They usually last for
> many many years anyway. Like Tom said it is possible to change one out with
> the servo in.
>
> One suggestion I would have is to replace the #4 battey cable with #2 cable
> it will allow far more current to the starter. I think I bought 15 ft of it
> when I did mine (#2 welding cable). Be sure to use the #2 size for
> EVERYTHING (batt to solenoid, solenoid to starter, and engine to frame and
> of course batt to ground). It makes a big difference.
>
> Jerry Christopherson
> 9473187
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 7:37 AM
> To: rfraser at bluefrog.com
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] re-locating the starter solenoid
>
> I have my servo off the car--it's being mailed to a rebuilder.
>
> I see that the starter solenoid is mounted *beneath* the servo...
>
> Once the booster goes back on...when/if the solenoid fails the servo will
> have to be removed in order to replace the solenoid.
>
> Having to open the brake lines to do an emergency roadside solenoid repair
> is
> not the best idea.
>
> So I'm thinking of relocating the solenoid---but to where?
>
> Where is the "best" location?
>
> Perhaps in the firewall to chassis corner on the driver's side similar to
> the
> Alpine?
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From allanballard at att.net  Mon Jul 19 15:41:15 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 17:41:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Jobs added at highest level in 3 years between April and
 June - USATODAY.com
Message-ID: <BB21D881-C75A-4ACE-AAD2-0153C9B9D060@att.net>

http://www.usatoday.com/money/economy/2010-07-19-economy-outlook_N.htm

If Obama succeeds in priming the pump in time for the Fall elections....

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Mon Jul 19 15:44:14 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:44:14 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <C8691AC6.3F9E%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <C8691AC6.3F9E%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <4C44C72E.3030204@socal.rr.com>

McDangerous,

I am afraid we are talking at cross-purposes here.  The Holley has two 
"vacuum ports"

One is a small and about 1/4 inch OD that is connected directly to the 
distributer cannister top front distributer advance vacuum port.

The other is about 1/2 inch OD and connects directly from the valve 
cover right rear end (going through the inserted PCV valve.  This is the 
port that the 465 4 BBl Holley's  did not have.  My original Holley carb 
has a heat pipe from the heat riser on the exhaust manifold to the choke 
thermostat coil. 

While the original Holley bottom plate has no breather tube, the 
manifold had a threaded hole and elbow (for the Tiger Version) to vent 
the valve cover PCV to the intake manifold port (that was a blank 
casting for Non-Tiger applications.)

You can view this installation under the TigersUnited.com "LAT & Dealer 
Options" / LAT-1 Super Induction Kit/" (original Price was $66 dealer 
cost, $140 List Price (includes carb).

http://tigersunited.com/resources/parts_service/pp-lat1.asp  and the 
original "Installation Instruction data:

http://tigersunited.com/resources/parts_service/pp-lat1install.asp

This page must be "zoomed in" to read the instructions.  If you have a 
Mac, the key press is "CMD +".  The PC command set is not known.

I am enclosing the picture as a ".bmp", but only you will get enclosures 
(disallowed by our autox.team.net for keeping file sizes low)

Yes, I know this is grainy, and the yellowing pages and cracked edges 
speak to that. BUT, "original is original"

Bottom line, there is a vacuum distributor tube on the upper right side 
of the carburettor, there is NO place to put the PCV vent hole except 
through the
LAT modifications to the basic F4B manifold.  There would be no need for 
a spacer to allow connection (IF you have the original LAT, and not the 
normal Edelbrock carb.

I hope this puts that issue to bed.  If you do NOT have the original 
LAT, a little port drill/thread is required.

OR, that contemporaneous Holley Carb base can be used.  I have the 
original LAT, but the hose routing was plain "ugly" .  Also remember 
that the PCV valve must be installed.

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Would U. Believe wrote:
> Oh, I think the vacuum port in the phenolic spacer under the carb goes 
> to the PCV valve on the right valve cover...
>
>
> On 7/18/10 2:47 PM, "Steve Laifman" <slaifman at socal.rr.com> wrote:
>
>     Thanks for your post, Mc Dangerous (M), and Allan,
>
>     I remembered that I, too, had some fiddling to do with the
>     F4B/Holley installation.  There was no tube on the carburettor  to
>     a  attach to the distributer vacuum advance port.  The available
>     gaskets, with such a port, would stick the air filter through the
>      LAT hood.
>
>     This  wouldn't influence those that replaced the distributor with
>     one that does not have vacuum advance.  I wanted it "stock" but
>     put the "Ignitor" kit in and had the advance curve tuned to the
>     car with spring replacement.
>
>     So, I took the easiest approach possible. I replaced the
>     carburettor butterfly lower unit with a new replacement part that
>     did have a vacuum port.
>
>     No hood banging, and easy adaption.  The thinnest composite
>     gaskets with a vacuum port I could find were still too thick.
>
>     While then, a carb parts source would still have new pieces.  Now,
>     they probably have used pieces. Watch the shaft wear on used units.
>
>     Steve

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of exv3vh1a.bmp]

From allanballard at att.net  Mon Jul 19 15:47:22 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 17:47:22 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Jobs added at highest level in 3 years between April
 and June - USATODAY.com
In-Reply-To: <BB21D881-C75A-4ACE-AAD2-0153C9B9D060@att.net>
References: <BB21D881-C75A-4ACE-AAD2-0153C9B9D060@att.net>
Message-ID: <6304065E-0C25-46AA-B607-BACE087928CD@att.net>

OOPS--please delete!


On Jul 19, 2010, at 5:41 PM, Allan Ballard wrote:

> http://www.usatoday.com/money/economy/2010-07-19-economy-outlook_N.htm
>
> If Obama succeeds in priming the pump in time for the Fall elections....
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From jefferyrandall at gmail.com  Mon Jul 19 15:53:38 2010
From: jefferyrandall at gmail.com (Jeffery Randall)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 17:53:38 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Jobs added at highest level in 3 years between April
 and June - USATODAY.com
In-Reply-To: <6304065E-0C25-46AA-B607-BACE087928CD@att.net>
References: <BB21D881-C75A-4ACE-AAD2-0153C9B9D060@att.net>
	<6304065E-0C25-46AA-B607-BACE087928CD@att.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinRMMhcbtL6UKb7FXC-VCB2ME-D1FvV_CseIOS4@mail.gmail.com>

If Obama succeeds We ll all be on welfare

On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 5:47 PM, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:

> OOPS--please delete!
>
>
> On Jul 19, 2010, at 5:41 PM, Allan Ballard wrote:
>
> > http://www.usatoday.com/money/economy/2010-07-19-economy-outlook_N.htm
> >
> > If Obama succeeds in priming the pump in time for the Fall elections....
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net
>  _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jefferyrandall at gmail.com

From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Mon Jul 19 18:20:26 2010
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 20:20:26 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] summer get together Washington/Md Area
Message-ID: <003901cb27a1$5ae95490$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>

Hi Listers,  I have talked to Joe Parlanti and we thought it might be fun to
have a dinner social get tother before the Crab feast at Tom's,  I can arrange
a time at the Fleet Researve Club in Annapolis,  good food and cheap drinks,
if interested contact me at this e-mail,  are week ends better than week
nights??...I got in correct e-mail for Rick Kellett,  Dave Grainger,  and Jim
Sencindiver....feel free to forward to any Sunbeamers in the DC/MD/PA/VA/DE
area.....Clyde McLaughlin

From jliny5 at cox.net  Tue Jul 20 19:49:01 2010
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:49:01 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Test 2
Message-ID: <D37FB0899AD64F2BA6A8834532839E90@JPC>

Sorry to bother The List...Again but I seem to have screwed up an earlier test
email. I have not received any mail from the list in over 24 hours which, in
my short time as a participant is not normal. I thought I would check my
connectivity, if that is okay.

Thx,

Jim Lindner

From Rollright at aol.com  Wed Jul 21 14:17:40 2010
From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:17:40 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 334
Message-ID: <7244e.7c8df6cf.3978afe4@aol.com>

Works here
 
Jim Armstrong
 
 
In a message dated 7/21/2010 2:38:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tigers-request at autox.team.net writes:

Send  Tigers mailing list submissions to
tigers at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide  Web, visit
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers
or, via email, send a message  with subject or body 'help' to
tigers-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the  list at
tigers-owner at autox.team.net

When replying,  please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of  Tigers digest..."



Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html


Today's Topics:

1. Test 2 (James  Lindner)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message:  1
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:49:01 -0400
From: "James Lindner"  <jliny5 at cox.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Test 2
To:  <tigers at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:  <D37FB0899AD64F2BA6A8834532839E90 at JPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

Sorry to bother The List...Again but I seem to have  screwed up an earlier 
test
email. I have not received any mail from the  list in over 24 hours which, 
in
my short time as a participant is not  normal. I thought I would check my
connectivity, if that is  okay.

Thx,

Jim  Lindner


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Tigers  mailing  list
Tigers at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers


End  of Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue  334
**************************************

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Wed Jul 21 15:19:02 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:19:02 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
Message-ID: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>

List,

Some of you might remember some time ago there was a discussion about
batteries and chargers.  I made the comment about the cheap "float" charger
that Harbor Freight sells (I've seen as low as $4.99) that I have been using
for about 10 years.  This months Hot Rod magazine (Oct10) has an article
about "gel cells" and on page 76 you can see what I was talking about.  Some
good info on batts also.

 

Jerry Christopherson

9473187

From fordlandia at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 21 16:31:24 2010
From: fordlandia at sbcglobal.net (Bill Waite)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 15:31:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Pusher Electric Fan Help
In-Reply-To: <D37FB0899AD64F2BA6A8834532839E90@JPC>
References: <D37FB0899AD64F2BA6A8834532839E90@JPC>
Message-ID: <988110.47933.qm@web82702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tiger Listers...

Last August at Doug Jenning's place (TAC event and Dayton
British Car Show), 
there was a beautiful red Tiger (I believe a Mark 1A)
equipped with a  "Perma 
Cool" electric fan in front of the radiator.  He had
it hooked to a switch so he 
could use it in stop and go traffic, etc as
needed (may have also had it temp 
controlled by a thermostat... can't
recall).  I had made note of the model 
number of the fan and also the owner's
name... but as I am prone to do, lost the 
note.  The owner had a huge three
ring binder he had put together with the 
entire history of the car and all of
the modifications, etc.  As I recall, there 
was something unique about the
car's history... I believe it was used in a 
manufacturer's car show by Rootes
or something like that.

Anyone know who the owner of that Tiger is?  I'd like
to get some information 
from him regarding the fan and its hookup.
Alternately: can one of you guys point me to the correct model number and
style 
of Perma Cool pusher fan for fitment in a Tiger?  Their catalog is at
this link:
http://www.google.com/search?q=perma+cool&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-u
s:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe=


I am not sure if the fan is one of their "high
performance" or "standard" 
electric fans.  If one of you is using a Perma
Cool that works well, please let 
me know which model you used.

BTW: The only
cooling issue I've experienced was some overheating when we 
participated in a
4th of July parade on a very hot day... forced to crawl along 
at about 10 mph
(if that) for quite a while.  It is that type of situation (or 
stop & go on a
really hot day) I'd like to help with the electric fan.

Regards,

Bill Waite

From tgrrr at peoplepc.com  Wed Jul 21 16:39:08 2010
From: tgrrr at peoplepc.com (Bob Hokanson)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 15:39:08 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
References: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>
Message-ID: <8B670ECBC74C4327AD7D93D6B1387979@bob>

I picked up one of those Chicago Electric float chargers at Harbor Freight a 
couple of months ago. On the box it says OK for use on flooded or gel-cell 
batteries... BUT on the other side of the box it says, "Caution - Do not use 
on gel lead-acid or AGM type batteries." Since my Optima is an AGM, I guess 
I better not use it.
It also says to check battery voltage before use and not to use it if 
battery voltage is less than 12 Volts.
It was cheap but sometimes you get what you pay for.

Caveat Emptor

Bob H

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net>
To: <TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET>
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 2:19 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries


> List,
>
> Some of you might remember some time ago there was a discussion about
> batteries and chargers.  I made the comment about the cheap "float" 
> charger
> that Harbor Freight sells (I've seen as low as $4.99) that I have been 
> using
> for about 10 years.  This months Hot Rod magazine (Oct10) has an article
> about "gel cells" and on page 76 you can see what I was talking about. 
> Some
> good info on batts also.
>
>
>
> Jerry Christopherson
>
> 9473187

From sganz at pacbell.net  Wed Jul 21 17:31:44 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:31:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
In-Reply-To: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>
References: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>
Message-ID: <64736.21343.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I just got 2 of the  Harbor Freights for 7.99 on sale last week. Will see how 
they work. I also got a couple of high tech ones they sell for 29.99 but not 
sure how they will work, they are a combo charger and floater. 


One trend that I'm disturbed by on most of the high tech chargers is that that 
will not charge a flat dead battery. I have some Odyssey brand chargers and some 
Vector chargers and they will not charge a battery that is dead. I have to pull 
the 20 year old Schauer Charger on them to give them a start and the 'high tech' 
chargers can take over. 


Sandy




----- Original Message ----
From: Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net>
To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET
Sent: Wed, July 21, 2010 2:19:02 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries

List,

Some of you might remember some time ago there was a discussion about
batteries and chargers.  I made the comment about the cheap "float" charger
that Harbor Freight sells (I've seen as low as $4.99) that I have been using
for about 10 years.  This months Hot Rod magazine (Oct10) has an article
about "gel cells" and on page 76 you can see what I was talking about.  Some
good info on batts also.



Jerry Christopherson

9473187
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Wed Jul 21 18:46:37 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 17:46:37 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
In-Reply-To: <64736.21343.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>
	<64736.21343.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C4794ED.2060409@mayfco.com>

Sandy!  Your second paragraph is so very true, lol.  I have a Black and 
Decker (Vector) and for a long time I thought it was broke.  If the 
battery was down, it always wants to desulfate it forever. So I charge 
it up with my trusty old stand by and then if I hook up the B&D, it says 
full charge, lol... and still does nothing... maybe if the voltage is 
more than 12 volts...  which ones did you get for 29.99? I may need a 
couple of new ones..

mayf

Sandy Ganz wrote:

>I just got 2 of the  Harbor Freights for 7.99 on sale last week. Will see how 
>they work. I also got a couple of high tech ones they sell for 29.99 but not 
>sure how they will work, they are a combo charger and floater. 
>
>
>One trend that I'm disturbed by on most of the high tech chargers is that that 
>will not charge a flat dead battery. I have some Odyssey brand chargers and some 
>Vector chargers and they will not charge a battery that is dead. I have to pull 
>the 20 year old Schauer Charger on them to give them a start and the 'high tech' 
>chargers can take over. 
>
>
>Sandy
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message ----
>From: Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net>
>To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET
>Sent: Wed, July 21, 2010 2:19:02 PM
>Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
>
>List,
>
>Some of you might remember some time ago there was a discussion about
>batteries and chargers.  I made the comment about the cheap "float" charger
>that Harbor Freight sells (I've seen as low as $4.99) that I have been using
>for about 10 years.  This months Hot Rod magazine (Oct10) has an article
>about "gel cells" and on page 76 you can see what I was talking about.  Some
>good info on batts also.
>
>
>
>Jerry Christopherson
>
>9473187

From mmichels at socal.rr.com  Wed Jul 21 23:34:33 2010
From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:34:33 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel tank sending unit
Message-ID: <000001cb295f$90f9c0f0$b2ed42d0$@rr.com>

Anybody know a source for a Tiger fuel tank sending unit or how to rebuild
one? Mine gives an open circuit (zero voltage to the gauge) below about a
quarter of a tank and reads about two gallons low throughout the range above
that. According to Stu Brennan's very helpful article on gauges and sending
units, I'm quite sure the gauge itself is accurate. It may be that the float
is heavy, but I haven't taken things apart yet to check it.

From allanballard at att.net  Thu Jul 22 04:32:37 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 06:32:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel tank sending unit
In-Reply-To: <000001cb295f$90f9c0f0$b2ed42d0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb295f$90f9c0f0$b2ed42d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <2D0FF843-79CB-424D-9725-6F88AE6A1F8A@att.net>

I ordered one from UK a while back but lost the receipt; am pretty sure the
vendor is one of these:

http://www.anfh.co.uk/classics/sunbeam.htm

I believe it's the same sender as the Alpine fuel tank sender.

You can soak yours for a couple days in something strong like acetone or
chem-dip (carb cleaner)
and it might help, but beware fumes and wear rubber gloves.

Allan
Atlanta, GA



On Jul 22, 2010, at 1:34 AM, Mike Michels wrote:

> Anybody know a source for a Tiger fuel tank sending unit or how to rebuild
> one? Mine gives an open circuit (zero voltage to the gauge) below about a
> quarter of a tank and reads about two gallons low throughout the range
above
> that. According to Stu Brennan's very helpful article on gauges and sending
> units, I'm quite sure the gauge itself is accurate. It may be that the
float
> is heavy, but I haven't taken things apart yet to check it.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From rande at thecia.net  Thu Jul 22 05:23:36 2010
From: rande at thecia.net (rande)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 07:23:36 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] fuel tank sender
Message-ID: <4c482a38.508f.0@thecia.net>

Hi,

Failing a more reliable source for the Smiths petrol gauge tank unit, they occasionally
appear on both eBay sites(ebay.co.uk  is the other).

The Rootes part number is 1223569 for Alpine III-V up to 
B395009549 (GT) and B395009420 (sports tourer) and Tiger or Alpine V8 up to
B382002361. For later cars, the Rootes number is
1238848 and this number supercedes the earlier part number.

The only other number I have is a Smiths part number of
TFS9002/000 and it is said to cover Tiger/Alpine V8 production dates Oct. 1964
to May 1966.

If it doesn't come with your part, you should also get the sealing gasket (Rootes
number 5040662) and if needed, the locking ring (Rootes number 5040663).

Obviously, it's one of those parts where LHD and RHD don't matter.

From dave at munroe.ca  Thu Jul 22 08:33:48 2010
From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 11:33:48 -0300
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel tank sending unit
In-Reply-To: <000001cb295f$90f9c0f0$b2ed42d0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb295f$90f9c0f0$b2ed42d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <18341FE93B7948CA9F4359A8C3F6ECED@DavePC>

Mike:

One on eBay right now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sunbeam-Tiger-Fuel-Gauge-Sending-Unit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c5607bd66QQitemZ190421908838QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Dave



> Anybody know a source for a Tiger fuel tank sending unit or how to rebuild
> one? Mine gives an open circuit (zero voltage to the gauge) below about a
> quarter of a tank and reads about two gallons low throughout the range 
> above
> that. According to Stu Brennan's very helpful article on gauges and 
> sending
> units, I'm quite sure the gauge itself is accurate. It may be that the 
> float
> is heavy, but I haven't taken things apart yet to check it.

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Thu Jul 22 11:32:15 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 12:32:15 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Pusher Electric Fan Help
In-Reply-To: <988110.47933.qm@web82702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <D37FB0899AD64F2BA6A8834532839E90@JPC>
	<988110.47933.qm@web82702.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E45A340FD5B6489E8ABF26EBDA0FCA71@jerry>

When putting in an electric fan, the most important thing to consider is the
CFM rating.  Get the highest CFM rated fan you can get. When I did mine
years ago, I used a Haden "high power" 16" fan with a thermostat controller.
I could never tell when it came on (very quiet).  So, being the curious
type, I hooked up a small LED light to see when it came on and off.  What's
interesting is that, when I'm driving down the road, the fan turns from the
air stream and produces just enough current to light the LED faintly because
it turns into a generator. Be SURE to use a relay. I don't think the Tiger
switches should be called upon to handle the current the fans will draw.  It
could get smoky.  Use fans in the 2000CFM to 3000CFM or more if you can get
them in.  I opted to remove the "crank hole support" to get mine in and put
the fan in before the radiator.

Some fans are very loud; so, check the sound level before you install.  My
first fan was a 14" and was very loud (and totally useless).  The fan I'm
using now is so quiet I can't hear it running unless the engine is off. I'm
sorry I can't remember the part number.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187

PS This may sound very stupid, but make sure you wire the fan so it will run
in the proper direction. I've seen them wired wrong.
 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Waite
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 5:31 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Pusher Electric Fan Help

Tiger Listers...

Last August at Doug Jenning's place (TAC event and Dayton
British Car Show), 
there was a beautiful red Tiger (I believe a Mark 1A)
equipped with a  "Perma 
Cool" electric fan in front of the radiator.  He had
it hooked to a switch so he 
could use it in stop and go traffic, etc as
needed (may have also had it temp 
controlled by a thermostat... can't
recall).  I had made note of the model 
number of the fan and also the owner's
name... but as I am prone to do, lost the 
note.  The owner had a huge three
ring binder he had put together with the 
entire history of the car and all of
the modifications, etc.  As I recall, there 
was something unique about the
car's history... I believe it was used in a 
manufacturer's car show by Rootes
or something like that.

Anyone know who the owner of that Tiger is?  I'd like
to get some information 
from him regarding the fan and its hookup.
Alternately: can one of you guys point me to the correct model number and
style 
of Perma Cool pusher fan for fitment in a Tiger?  Their catalog is at
this link:
http://www.google.com/search?q=perma+cool&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-
u
s:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe=


I am not sure if the fan is one of their "high
performance" or "standard" 
electric fans.  If one of you is using a Perma
Cool that works well, please let 
me know which model you used.

BTW: The only
cooling issue I've experienced was some overheating when we 
participated in a
4th of July parade on a very hot day... forced to crawl along 
at about 10 mph
(if that) for quite a while.  It is that type of situation (or 
stop & go on a
really hot day) I'd like to help with the electric fan.

Regards,

Bill Waite
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From w_pierzga at msn.com  Thu Jul 22 11:37:24 2010
From: w_pierzga at msn.com (Wayne-MSN)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:37:24 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel tank sending unit
In-Reply-To: <000001cb295f$90f9c0f0$b2ed42d0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cb295f$90f9c0f0$b2ed42d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <COL121-DS141107CF16CF0221C788059FA20@phx.gbl>

Mike:

Before you pull hair rebuilding or locating a 'new' sender, remove it from
the tank. It is a little finicky but easy to do. The sender is held in place
by a metal pinch-ring. You need to twist the ring off counter-clockwise. I
use a wide flat-blade screwdriver positioned on one of the tabs on the ring
and tap the screwdriver with a block of wood. Keep at it and the ring will
twist off. Once off the sender can be removed - you may have to gently pry
it off the rubber seal - but dont tear the seal.

You will need to snake the sender out as the float is attached to an approx
12 inch long stiff-wire arm with a bend in it towards the float end.

I suspect you will find that the float is shot. Depending on which unit you
have the float will be either tin or plastic. I have had poor luck with the
plastic ones - they develop a crack along a seam, fill up and no longer
"float". The plastic ones simply snap into a hook at the end of the
stiff-wire arm. You can get a replacement plastic float from Nisonger's
BUT..... The last one I got from Nisonger's failed less than a year after I
installed it.

An alternative is to use a brass float from an old Ford. Suggested supplier
is MAC Antique Auto. Ford number is COAZ-9202-B ($5). MAC also sells a
slightly improved version - part number: COAZ-9202-SW ($12).

These brass floats are a close but not exact snap-in fit into the hook at
the end of the stiff-wire arm. Just take care when attaching so you dont
puncture the brass float. Check by putting the installed float in a pot of
warm water - look for bubbles.....

The tin float can be repaired with solder after thorough cleaning.

Once repaired I find it good practice to dip the repaired float into
RED-KOTE to seal it for good. Recommend refinishing gas tanks with red-kote
- have had great results for the past 12 years I have been using it.

The electrics of the sending unit are not too easy to repair. But they can
be cleaned easily. Remove the two screws that hold a cover plate on and
clean it with spray-on carburetor cleaner - don't use a brush or you might
break the tiny wire. You will understand once you take the cover plate off.
After cleaning, you can apply some electrical contact lubricant/cleaner
available from Radio Shack.

It is easy to confirm the unit is working with an ohm meter. Move the arm
and the resistance should change smoothly over the mechanical range.
Unfortunately, I dont recall the resistance range.

When reinstalling, suggest coating the rubber seal with some non-hardening
(white) gasket sealer.

Good luck,

Wayne


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Michels [mailto:mmichels at socal.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 1:35 AM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel tank sending unit

Anybody know a source for a Tiger fuel tank sending unit or how to rebuild
one? Mine gives an open circuit (zero voltage to the gauge) below about a
quarter of a tank and reads about two gallons low throughout the range above
that. According to Stu Brennan's very helpful article on gauges and sending
units, I'm quite sure the gauge itself is accurate. It may be that the float
is heavy, but I haven't taken things apart yet to check it.

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Thu Jul 22 12:10:49 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 13:10:49 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
In-Reply-To: <64736.21343.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>
	<64736.21343.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F518717B2C51404C8A2453253D3EE4CE@jerry>

Sandy and list,

The article in Hot Rod mag. explained how and why some chargers will not
charge a fully dead batt. The trick is to hook up another fully charged batt
in Parallel with the dead batt. then the charger would charge the dead batt.
just fine. 

I have an optima batt for 10 years now, and use the cheep Harbor Freight
float chargers, even though is says not to use on AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat)
Batteries. Their only good for KEEPING a batt full, NOT charging one.

Our Mustang club was invited to see a collection of Vipers (the car) at a
couples ranch not far from here (Arp, TX) a while back. I remember telling a
friend of mine that I couldn't afford the Battery Tenders, they have 50
Vipers!!

Jerry Christopherson
9473187    

-----Original Message-----
From: Sandy Ganz [mailto:sganz at pacbell.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 6:32 PM
To: Jerry & Maureen (Mo); TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Batteries

I just got 2 of the  Harbor Freights for 7.99 on sale last week. Will see
how 
they work. I also got a couple of high tech ones they sell for 29.99 but not

sure how they will work, they are a combo charger and floater. 


One trend that I'm disturbed by on most of the high tech chargers is that
that 
will not charge a flat dead battery. I have some Odyssey brand chargers and
some 
Vector chargers and they will not charge a battery that is dead. I have to
pull 
the 20 year old Schauer Charger on them to give them a start and the 'high
tech' 
chargers can take over. 


Sandy




----- Original Message ----
From: Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net>
To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET
Sent: Wed, July 21, 2010 2:19:02 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries

List,

Some of you might remember some time ago there was a discussion about
batteries and chargers.  I made the comment about the cheap "float" charger
that Harbor Freight sells (I've seen as low as $4.99) that I have been using
for about 10 years.  This months Hot Rod magazine (Oct10) has an article
about "gel cells" and on page 76 you can see what I was talking about.  Some
good info on batts also.



Jerry Christopherson

9473187
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From Carmods at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 12:14:19 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 14:14:19 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Fuel tank sending unit
Message-ID: <24b2a.451d9a5d.3979e47b@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/22/2010 2:40:05 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
@socal.rr.com writes:

I'm quite sure the gauge itself is accurate. It may be that  the float
is heavy, but I haven't taken things apart yet to check it.  

mmichels
 
I would recommend you take the sending unit out and look at  it. They are 
quite simple and usually easy to repair.


John Logan  

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Thu Jul 22 12:33:30 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 11:33:30 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
In-Reply-To: <4C4794ED.2060409@mayfco.com>
References: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>
	<64736.21343.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4C4794ED.2060409@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <4C488EFA.5040206@socal.rr.com>

Tigers,

For many years I had been using a battery charger (Sears) that is also 
supposed to be a trickle charger.

When I first got the Tiger it had the prevalent lead-acid battery.  When 
it needed replacement I purchased the Optima gel sealed battery.  
Warning, the Optima "Deep Cycle Marine Battery" is NOT recommended for 
auto use. It now costs about $150 (on line), but but it is worry free. 
At Summit Racing they carry various models from $160 and up.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Optima-Batteries

Read about "Trickle Charging":

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trickle_charging


I have now got all my cars using this red top Optima battery.  When not 
in daily use, I plug all of them into an "Battery Tender", NOT a 
"trickle charger" when parked in the garage. This device has a 
quick-disconnect in the line between  and the AC powered Battery 
Tender.  Just plug it in when in the garage.  (Oh, yes!  Disconnect it 
before you back out of the garage.  <8>).

It has been a great device.  
http://www.carbatterytricklecharger.com/images/charge5.jpg



Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



drmayf wrote:
> Sandy!  Your second paragraph is so very true, lol.  I have a Black 
> and Decker (Vector) and for a long time I thought it was broke.  If 
> the battery was down, it always wants to desulfate it forever. So I 
> charge it up with my trusty old stand by and then if I hook up the 
> B&D, it says full charge, lol... and still does nothing... maybe if 
> the voltage is more than 12 volts...  which ones did you get for 
> 29.99? I may need a couple of new ones..
>
> mayf
>
> Sandy Ganz wrote:
>
>> I just got 2 of the  Harbor Freights for 7.99 on sale last week. Will 
>> see how they work. I also got a couple of high tech ones they sell 
>> for 29.99 but not sure how they will work, they are a combo charger 
>> and floater.
>>
>> One trend that I'm disturbed by on most of the high tech chargers is 
>> that that will not charge a flat dead battery. I have some Odyssey 
>> brand chargers and some Vector chargers and they will not charge a 
>> battery that is dead. I have to pull the 20 year old Schauer Charger 
>> on them to give them a start and the 'high tech' chargers can take over.
>>
>> Sandy
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net>
>> To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET
>> Sent: Wed, July 21, 2010 2:19:02 PM
>> Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
>>
>> List,
>>
>> Some of you might remember some time ago there was a discussion about
>> batteries and chargers.  I made the comment about the cheap "float" 
>> charger
>> that Harbor Freight sells (I've seen as low as $4.99) that I have 
>> been using
>> for about 10 years.  This months Hot Rod magazine (Oct10) has an article
>> about "gel cells" and on page 76 you can see what I was talking 
>> about.  Some
>> good info on batts also.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jerry Christopherson
>>
>> 9473187

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Thu Jul 22 12:52:09 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 11:52:09 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
In-Reply-To: <4C4794ED.2060409@mayfco.com>
References: <CF3897B15F3A421BACD1556ADDCCC82F@jerry>
	<64736.21343.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4C4794ED.2060409@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <4C489359.5040508@socal.rr.com>

Here is the web site for the Deltran"Battery Tender Plus (12v)", 
including online ordering:


http://batterytender.com/chargers.html


Mine is the first one listed, at $64.95.   I purchased it at a Pep Boys 
store years ago, and in continuous use for 5 years on the same battery.

They make one that services two batteries at the same time, now.  I 
bought another when I upgraded another car to "Optima"

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com

From BOBCARNUT at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 12:57:33 2010
From: BOBCARNUT at aol.com (BOBCARNUT at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 14:57:33 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Pusher Electric Fan Help
Message-ID: <b2e59.36aac911.3979ee9d@aol.com>

I'd love to get another Tiger, but I can't afford one anymore.

From CoolVT at aol.com  Thu Jul 22 15:31:08 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:31:08 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Batteries
Message-ID: <36a37.5db1e928.397a129c@aol.com>

I've been using my Battery Tender for about 15 yrs.  with no problems.  
Works great in the North where vehicles are put away for  the winter....Tigers, 
garden tractors, motorcylces, etc.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 7/22/2010 4:30:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
slaifman at socal.rr.com writes:

Here is  the web site for the Deltran"Battery Tender Plus (12v)", 
including online  ordering:


http://batterytender.com/chargers.html


Mine is  the first one listed, at $64.95.   I purchased it at a Pep Boys  
store years ago, and in continuous use for 5 years on the same  battery.

They make one that services two batteries at the same time,  now.  I 
bought another when I upgraded another car to  "Optima"

Steve

Steve  Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Thu Jul 22 17:21:37 2010
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:21:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] fuel guage
Message-ID: <001601cb29f4$a24d8720$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>

Hi Listers,  before getting into the tank and sending unit which isn't easy,
I'd be sure to ck/repalce the voltage stabilizer for the guage system,  these
are often a problem and easier and cheaper than a sender unit...rpl'd one in
an XKE for a customer in the shop last week,  he had put a guage and two
sending units in himself,  the stabilizer was $35.00 from XK'S unlimited,
probably not the  same exact one for a Tiger,  but SS has them,  Clyde

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Jul 22 22:11:12 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:11:12 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] fuel gauge
References: <001601cb29f4$a24d8720$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
Message-ID: <5C07F0B24F0F466DB8E3C3989B397F64@student2>

Two issues I've had with senders (beyond a float - that doesn't):

1. The same varnish that can build in a carburator can build up on the wire 
resistor and act as an insulator. Lightly sanding it with fine paper 
restored contact.

2. I haven't seen the Tiger sender, but there have been times on other 
senders where the moving metal parts have been used to carry the electric 
signal - and at times won't.  A trick I learned racing slot cars back in the 
'70 was to solder a flexible wire near the wipe point on the arm to the 
connector that transfers the electric signal outside of the tank.
CAUTION use minimal heat I have also lost the seal doing this!  JB weld did 
the fix.

Tom 

From mmichels at socal.rr.com  Fri Jul 23 10:54:52 2010
From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 09:54:52 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] fuel guage
In-Reply-To: <001601cb29f4$a24d8720$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
References: <001601cb29f4$a24d8720$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
Message-ID: <002001cb2a87$c5d78ae0$5186a0a0$@rr.com>

Very good advice. I have the solid state one sold by MOSS Motors (and highly
recommend it) it's working fine as the temp gauge and a voltage check have
confirmed. 

I'll be pulling the sender out today and would not be surprised to see that
the float is leaking. 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Clyde McLaughlin
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 4:22 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] fuel guage

Hi Listers,  before getting into the tank and sending unit which isn't easy,
I'd be sure to ck/repalce the voltage stabilizer for the guage system,
these
are often a problem and easier and cheaper than a sender unit...rpl'd one in
an XKE for a customer in the shop last week,  he had put a guage and two
sending units in himself,  the stabilizer was $35.00 from XK'S unlimited,
probably not the  same exact one for a Tiger,  but SS has them,  Clyde
_______________________________________________
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From csx2282 at sonic.net  Fri Jul 23 18:32:26 2010
From: csx2282 at sonic.net (csx2282)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:32:26 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] My Opttima Battery
Message-ID: <E5F380EC2DE943A4960743A80E54EAB3@Cobra>

Thought I'd pass along my battery tale.

Over the years I've purchased numerous new batteries for my car which doesn't
get driven much.  None
of them lasted more than two or three years so I kept trying different brands
and finally purchased a Red
Top Optima at a Pep Boys' store.   A few weeks after the purchase I turned the
key to the start position, but no
cranking sound; in fact no sound at all.  The battery connections were all
snug and clean, so I measured
the voltage across the battery terminals- 1.5V.  Had my multimeter died?  I
measured the voltage across
the terminals of one of my other cars- 12.6V.  Sigh.

I eventually tracked the problem to a short in a solid state voltage regulator
I had installed a year or
so earlier in place of the original electro-mechanical unit.  Much to my
surprise, I found a Borg Warner
electro-mechanical regulator at Pep Boys which, except for the color of the
cover, looked like the original.
So at least that problem was taken care of.

I asked around about the likelihood of the Optima being resurrected.  The
general consensus was that it was
a total goner.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I connected an el cheapo
Midlands trickle charger to it that I
had bought at a Whitefront store in the '70s.  After several days of charging
it was up to about 11V.
Initially I was charging in stages because the charger got really hot after
half hour or so.  But at this point it
seemed to be maintaining a reasonable temperature so I left it connected full
time.  The good news was that
the charge was holding.  Eventually it reached a high enough voltage that I
felt it was worth a trying to crank
the engine.  The car started right up and I let the alternator do the rest of
the charging.

That was at least 5 years ago and the Optima still cranks the starter faster
than any other battery I've ever had in
the car.  I do use a Battery Tender Junior to maintain the charge between
drives.

I still see Optimas at Pep Boys stores and also some COSTCO stores.  Batteries
Plus sell Battery Tenders,
though they're probably a bit cheaper on-line.

Roland

From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Jul 23 20:20:29 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 22:20:29 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] My Opttima Battery
Message-ID: <10e48b.39e1ee90.397ba7ed@aol.com>

Roland,
Did you determine that over the years that the  batteries you were buying 
were junk or were all of the problems caused by the  defective voltage 
regulator?
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 7/23/2010 9:28:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
csx2282 at sonic.net writes:

Thought  I'd pass along my battery tale.

Over the years I've purchased numerous  new batteries for my car which 
doesn't
get driven much.  None
of  them lasted more than two or three years so I kept trying different  
brands
and finally purchased a Red
Top Optima at a Pep Boys'  store.   A few weeks after the purchase I turned 
the
key to the  start position, but no
cranking sound; in fact no sound at all.  The  battery connections were all
snug and clean, so I measured
the voltage  across the battery terminals- 1.5V.  Had my multimeter died?   
I
measured the voltage across
the terminals of one of my other cars-  12.6V.  Sigh.

I eventually tracked the problem to a short in a  solid state voltage 
regulator
I had installed a year or
so earlier in  place of the original electro-mechanical unit.  Much to my
surprise, I  found a Borg Warner
electro-mechanical regulator at Pep Boys which, except  for the color of the
cover, looked like the original.
So at least that  problem was taken care of.

I asked around about the likelihood of the  Optima being resurrected.  The
general consensus was that it was
a  total goner.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I connected an el  cheapo
Midlands trickle charger to it that I
had bought at a Whitefront  store in the '70s.  After several days of 
charging
it was up to about  11V.
Initially I was charging in stages because the charger got really hot  after
half hour or so.  But at this point it
seemed to be  maintaining a reasonable temperature so I left it connected  
full
time.  The good news was that
the charge was holding.   Eventually it reached a high enough voltage that I
felt it was worth a  trying to crank
the engine.  The car started right up and I let the  alternator do the rest 
of
the charging.

That was at least 5 years  ago and the Optima still cranks the starter 
faster
than any other battery  I've ever had in
the car.  I do use a Battery Tender Junior to  maintain the charge between
drives.

I still see Optimas at Pep Boys  stores and also some COSTCO stores.  
Batteries
Plus sell Battery  Tenders,
though they're probably a bit cheaper  on-line.

Roland
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From csx2282 at sonic.net  Fri Jul 23 20:45:38 2010
From: csx2282 at sonic.net (csx2282)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 19:45:38 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fw:  My Opttima Battery
Message-ID: <6F8E47E89002438982ECE66B463ED7E5@Cobra>

Ooops, guess I only sent this to Mark and not the entire list.

Roland
----- Original Message -----

The voltage regulator was only a one time issue.  Prior to that I always had
the original stock '60s vintage Borg Warner regulator.  The reason I replaced
it was that I had to have the alternator rebuilt.  It's always been my
practice to replace the voltage regulator whenever I replaced an alternator,
since often a failed alternator is the result of a failed voltage regulator.
I suspect the original voltage regulator, which I still have, is probably
okay.  I never had any of the previous batteries fail in a manner similar to
what I experienced with the one time Optima problem.  They just had slow
deaths.  Most commonly after a while they would no longer hold a charge.  In
one case a battery developed and internal short and sprayed acid all over the
engine compartment.  Took lots of baking soda to recover from that.

IMO, it was the batteries that were junk.  Sears batteries, GM batteries, etc.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
  From: CoolVT at aol.com


  Roland,
  Did you determine that over the years that the batteries you were buying
were junk or were all of the problems caused by the defective voltage
regulator?
  Mark L

  In a message dated 7/23/2010 9:28:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
csx2282 at sonic.net writes:
    Thought I'd pass along my battery tale.

    Over the years I've purchased numerous new batteries for my car which
doesn't
    get driven much.  None
    of them lasted more than two or three years so I kept trying different
brands
    and finally purchased a Red
    Top Optima at a Pep Boys' store.   A few weeks after the purchase I turned
the
    key to the start position, but no
    cranking sound; in fact no sound at all.  The battery connections were
all
    snug and clean, so I measured
    the voltage across the battery terminals- 1.5V.  Had my multimeter died?
I
    measured the voltage across
    the terminals of one of my other cars- 12.6V.  Sigh.

    I eventually tracked the problem to a short in a solid state voltage
regulator
    I had installed a year or
    so earlier in place of the original electro-mechanical unit.  Much to my
    surprise, I found a Borg Warner
    electro-mechanical regulator at Pep Boys which, except for the color of
the
    cover, looked like the original.
    So at least that problem was taken care of.

    I asked around about the likelihood of the Optima being resurrected.  The
    general consensus was that it was
    a total goner.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I connected an el cheapo
    Midlands trickle charger to it that I
    had bought at a Whitefront store in the '70s.  After several days of
charging
    it was up to about 11V.
    Initially I was charging in stages because the charger got really hot
after
    half hour or so.  But at this point it
    seemed to be maintaining a reasonable temperature so I left it connected
full
    time.  The good news was that
    the charge was holding.  Eventually it reached a high enough voltage that
I
    felt it was worth a trying to crank
    the engine.  The car started right up and I let the alternator do the rest
of
    the charging.

    That was at least 5 years ago and the Optima still cranks the starter
faster
    than any other battery I've ever had in
    the car.  I do use a Battery Tender Junior to maintain the charge between
    drives.

    I still see Optimas at Pep Boys stores and also some COSTCO stores.
Batteries
    Plus sell Battery Tenders,
    though they're probably a bit cheaper on-line.

    Roland

From garywinblad at comcast.net  Fri Jul 23 21:48:34 2010
From: garywinblad at comcast.net (garywinblad at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 03:48:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] My Opttima Battery
In-Reply-To: <E5F380EC2DE943A4960743A80E54EAB3@Cobra>
Message-ID: <56631603.466399.1279943314955.JavaMail.root@sz0064a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Well...
Contrary to Roland's good experience:
I bought a red top for my C5 Corvette after all the on-line Corvette guys
swore by them.
I went on a three week vacation.  During that time the properly functioning
computers and etc. drained it down.  It would jump start but never recovered.
I bought it at Costco for like $130 by far the most I ever spent on a battery and
it lasted just longer than the warantee (3 years IIRC).. 
Will probably buy another for the Tiger some day since I want to mount it on its
side, BUT never again for a "normal" car.
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: csx2282 <csx2282 at sonic.net>
To: tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 00:32:26 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] My Opttima Battery

Thought I'd pass along my battery tale.

Over the years I've purchased numerous new batteries for my car which doesn't
get driven much.  None
of them lasted more than two or three years so I kept trying different brands
and finally purchased a Red
Top Optima at a Pep Boys' store.   A few weeks after the purchase I turned the
key to the start position, but no
cranking sound; in fact no sound at all.  The battery connections were all
snug and clean, so I measured
the voltage across the battery terminals- 1.5V.  Had my multimeter died?  I
measured the voltage across
the terminals of one of my other cars- 12.6V.  Sigh.

I eventually tracked the problem to a short in a solid state voltage regulator
I had installed a year or
so earlier in place of the original electro-mechanical unit.  Much to my
surprise, I found a Borg Warner
electro-mechanical regulator at Pep Boys which, except for the color of the
cover, looked like the original.
So at least that problem was taken care of.

I asked around about the likelihood of the Optima being resurrected.  The
general consensus was that it was
a total goner.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I connected an el cheapo
Midlands trickle charger to it that I
had bought at a Whitefront store in the '70s.  After several days of charging
it was up to about 11V.
Initially I was charging in stages because the charger got really hot after
half hour or so.  But at this point it
seemed to be maintaining a reasonable temperature so I left it connected full
time.  The good news was that
the charge was holding.  Eventually it reached a high enough voltage that I
felt it was worth a trying to crank
the engine.  The car started right up and I let the alternator do the rest of
the charging.

That was at least 5 years ago and the Optima still cranks the starter faster
than any other battery I've ever had in
the car.  I do use a Battery Tender Junior to maintain the charge between
drives.

I still see Optimas at Pep Boys stores and also some COSTCO stores.  Batteries
Plus sell Battery Tenders,
though they're probably a bit cheaper on-line.

Roland
_

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 24 12:10:00 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 13:10:00 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?My_Opttima_Battery?=
Message-ID: <20100724180856.6AD23187655@autox.team.net>

Vettes are not 'normal' .;-)
 My buddy has a new Vette, btw, and says either you had a bum battery or a problem.  My suburban drained its batteries once when I left it laying about for several weeks. The culprit was the radio.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: garywinblad at comcast.net
Date: Fri, Jul 23, 2010 22:48
Subject: [Tigers] My Opttima Battery
To: "csx2282" <csx2282 at sonic.net>
Cc: "tigers" <tigers at autox.team.net>


Well...
Contrary to Roland's good experience:
I bought a red top for my C5 Corvette after all the on-line Corvette guys
swore by them.
I went on a three week vacation.  During that time the properly functioning
computers and etc. drained it down.  It would jump start but never recovered.
I bought it at Costco for like $130 by far the most I ever spent on a battery and
it lasted just longer than the warantee (3 years IIRC).. 
Will probably buy another for the Tiger some day since I want to mount it on its
side, BUT never again for a "normal" car.
Gary

----- Original Message -----
From: csx2282 <csx2282 at sonic.net>
To: tigers <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 00:32:26 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Tigers] My Opttima Battery

Thought I'd pass along my battery tale.

Over the years I've purchased numerous new batteries for my car which doesn't
get driven much.  None
of them lasted more than two or three years so I kept trying different brands
and finally purchased a Red
Top Optima at a Pep Boys' store.   A few weeks after the purchase I turned the
key to the start position, but no
cranking sound; in fact no sound at all.  The battery connections were all
snug and clean, so I measured
the voltage across the battery terminals- 1.5V.  Had my multimeter died?  I
measured the voltage across
the terminals of one of my other cars- 12.6V.  Sigh.

I eventually tracked the problem to a short in a solid state voltage regulator
I had installed a year or
so earlier in place of the original electro-mechanical unit.  Much to my
surprise, I found a Borg Warner
electro-mechanical regulator at Pep Boys which, except for the color of the
cover, looked like the original.
So at least that problem was taken care of.

I asked around about the likelihood of the Optima being resurrected.  The
general consensus was that it was
a total goner.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I connected an el cheapo
Midlands trickle charger to it that I
had bought at a Whitefront store in the '70s.  After several days of charging
it was up to about 11V.
Initially I was charging in stages because the charger got really hot after
half hour or so.  But at this point it
seemed to be maintaining a reasonable temperature so I left it connected full
time.  The good news was that
the charge was holding.  Eventually it reached a high enough voltage that I
felt it was worth a trying to crank
the engine.  The car started right up and I let the alternator do the rest of
the charging.

That was at least 5 years ago and the Optima still cranks the starter faster
than any other battery I've ever had in
the car.  I do use a Battery Tender Junior to maintain the charge between
drives.

I still see Optimas at Pep Boys stores and also some COSTCO stores.  Batteries
Plus sell Battery Tenders,
though they're probably a bit cheaper on-line.

Roland
_
_______________________________________________

From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Sat Jul 24 14:12:17 2010
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 16:12:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] battery
Message-ID: <007501cb2b6c$844d6c80$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>

Hi Guys,  just a note to look a little british and possibly a little OEM,  I
used an all black cased  Interstate and pealed off the lables,  got a really
"Cool"  Lucas decal from XK's Unlimited and put it on the battery...just an
idea...the Interstate guy said he hoped the Lucas wouldn't jinx it.  Ha Ha!!
Clyde

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Sat Jul 24 17:27:57 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 16:27:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] parts/cars
Message-ID: <558177.47508.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I recently traveled to central IL. to visit my granddaughter who is visiting
her two Grand Mothers- -My X and her Great G.M. Yes it was a treat seeing my
ten year old granddaughter but being around my X was like being force fed
draino- keep in mind I raised our kids from age 1.5 and 2.5, so my respect for
her is negative- ENOUGH- I did end up at a salvage yard that you pulled the
parts yourself. We have very few of those , unlike you guys in Ca. and other
states. I know of one about 100 miles from me I found the Concord tail shaft
for Dale to build the 5 speed with- otherwise- this is the first since then.
SO, I'm interested in knowing the cars that have the fans that we use (5
blade) on our Tigers and any other parts someone might think of. I also am in
need of a front clip and a passenger sun visor for a 1997 Nissan 240 SX 4 cyl.
w/  air- loaded with everything but leather interior- I cant find one anywhere
from St.Louis to Austin TX. if anyone can help, I would be glad to reward
them.
thanks in advance,
TonytheTiger

From Tiger at Sabr2th.com  Sat Jul 24 22:00:59 2010
From: Tiger at Sabr2th.com (Sabr2th)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 23:00:59 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
Message-ID: <C871212B.10%Tiger@Sabr2th.com>

Just replaced the Optima red top battery in my Tiger after 16 years.
Now an article in the latest Hot Rod shows how to get it to charge again.
Darn, probably could have gotten ever more time out of it.

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sat Jul 24 22:29:22 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:29:22 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] parts/cars
References: <558177.47508.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2955DFDB5D43453180E35FBC5F7A90C1@student2>

Tony, I believe you are referring to the 5 blade Volvo fan.   Below is a 
post I made a number of years ago. I'm repsting it for the general 
information.  I have three hanging on my garage wall since I found the 
desired Maverick fan.   Tom

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF THE VOLVO FAN?
The fan will bolt directly to the stock Tiger water pump hub (1") without
modification. HOWEVER, the center hole size on the Volvo fan is 1-1/8th
inch. To center the fan the bolts can be brought just touching the fan, then
with a second helper twist the fan in one direction and the hub in the other
and then tighten. This will self-center the fan on the outside edges of the
bolts. A second caution here. My fan comes very close to the rack so, if you
motor mounts are old or spacers are missing you may still have to trim.
   If you are budget minded another advantage is cost. The fans I've gotten
at Pick A Part have been $7 (compare that to the $$$ Maverick fan!). I
don't have the info in front of me, but I recall testing where the Volvo fan
was third behind the Derale and Maverick fans, but still ahead quite a bit
over the stock fan.

WHAT DOES THE VOLVO FAN LOOK LIKE?
The words Volvo and FRONT are on the center piece (hub as I call it). There
are all "safety yellow" (though many are "dirty" black). The blades are
offset in pairs of three and two (asymmetrical). There are three rivets per
blade. The center hub is thick steel and the blades appear to be stainless.

WHERE DO I FIND THE FAN?
Volvo's with the older push rod engine. Not all Volvo's of this time period
have the fan, in fact only a few. Most often it is the 142-144 (4cylinder)
or 162-164 (6 cylinder) models.
I did find a rare, but identical fan on an older Volvo 122.

WHAT ARE THE PART NUMBERS?
The more common number from the 140-160 series is 683541. The two I have
also have IMP #'s OF 69 34 and 73 10 respectively (likely a date code).
The fan from the 122 has a part number of 653841 and a secondary number of
9144580G69.

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Sun Jul 25 08:36:58 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 09:36:58 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
In-Reply-To: <C871212B.10%Tiger@Sabr2th.com>
References: <C871212B.10%Tiger@Sabr2th.com>
Message-ID: <57AE921E0A9D4CA99CE8D6C53B826047@jerry>

Ya, wouldn't it be nice if Optima would suggest to do what the Hot Rod
article suggested?  But no, they want to sell you a new one!!  Wouldn't you
think the "advertisement" of "16 years of Faithfull Service?" would, in the
long run, sell far more batts?? I'm just thinking.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sabr2th
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 11:01 PM
To: Tigers
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My Optima Battery

Just replaced the Optima red top battery in my Tiger after 16 years.
Now an article in the latest Hot Rod shows how to get it to charge again.
Darn, probably could have gotten ever more time out of it.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From Carmods at aol.com  Sun Jul 25 14:43:23 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 16:43:23 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
Message-ID: <1f7fe.6a34f430.397dfbeb@aol.com>

_Tiger at Sabr2th.com_ (mailto:Tiger at Sabr2th.com)  writes:
 
Just replaced the Optima red top battery in my Tiger after 16  years.
Now an article in the latest Hot Rod shows how to get it to charge  again.


Can someone tell us what the Hot Rod article  said?
 
John  Logan

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Sun Jul 25 15:42:35 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 17:42:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
In-Reply-To: <1f7fe.6a34f430.397dfbeb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E172A1965DE4C16AE468EB61388C8A4@ronpc1>

John
	The Hot Rod article states that most chargers will not sense a badly
discharged battery due to low voltage and will not charge it.   You hook up
a good battery in parallel with the discharged battery and put the charger
on.   The charger will sense the good battery and charge will go to the
discharged battery.   The good battery can be taken off the parallel circuit
once the other battery gets it's voltage up.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Carmods at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 4:43 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My Optima Battery


_Tiger at Sabr2th.com_ (mailto:Tiger at Sabr2th.com)  writes:

Just replaced the Optima red top battery in my Tiger after 16  years. Now an
article in the latest Hot Rod shows how to get it to charge  again.


Can someone tell us what the Hot Rod article  said?

John  Logan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3021 - Release Date: 07/22/10
06:36:00

From mmichels at socal.rr.com  Sun Jul 25 22:51:58 2010
From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 21:51:58 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <5C07F0B24F0F466DB8E3C3989B397F64@student2>
References: <001601cb29f4$a24d8720$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
	<5C07F0B24F0F466DB8E3C3989B397F64@student2>
Message-ID: <000501cb2c7e$47f0dca0$d7d295e0$@rr.com>

Thanks to all for helpful info. It turns out that the rheostat wires had
unraveled and were moving back and forth as the contact wiper travelled
across them. This resulted in dead spots and no wires at all at the "empty"
end of the travel. The sender is the type with a plastic float (which was in
fine shape) that clips into the wire arm. No evidence who made it. 

I was able to get a Smiths sending unit, the type with a much larger metal
float and counterweight. The rheostat and general construction of this type
is much more robust, and it works accurately.  

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Thomas Witt
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 9:11 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] fuel gauge

Two issues I've had with senders (beyond a float - that doesn't):

1. The same varnish that can build in a carburator can build up on the wire 
resistor and act as an insulator. Lightly sanding it with fine paper 
restored contact.

2. I haven't seen the Tiger sender, but there have been times on other 
senders where the moving metal parts have been used to carry the electric 
signal - and at times won't.  A trick I learned racing slot cars back in the

'70 was to solder a flexible wire near the wipe point on the arm to the 
connector that transfers the electric signal outside of the tank.
CAUTION use minimal heat I have also lost the seal doing this!  JB weld did 
the fix.

Tom 
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels at socal.rr.com

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 26 06:13:23 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 05:13:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
In-Reply-To: <1f7fe.6a34f430.397dfbeb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <702416.5662.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John- Sounds as tho you may have gotten 20 years if you had seen that article.
Its hard to imagine any item being made these days lasting beyond the
warranty- for a fact, most thing go south as soon as the warranty expires.That
is one good thing about Sears, you can keep renewing your warranty and they
continue to honor it. I had a lawn mowing business I started for my son when
he was ten, now there are a ton of zero turn mowers on trailers. When he was
16 I had to beg him to get him to mow, so I would mow, some years I would sub
the yards out but while waiting for my disability it kept food on the table
and the electric bill paid. A few years back my grandson came to live with me.
he is biracial, so he had a chip on his shoulder and was pretty lazy, until I
paid him, man did the cash ever motivate him, he had no idea how much money he
was making BUT I got burned out and retired the grasshopper. If my son would
have followed the "old mans" advice he
 would have a 150k business and wouldn't have to do anything but make sure the
yards where up to the standards I set as my business cards'Guranteed Services"
said if you weren't happy, it was free, so I had to go back and inspect the
weed eating to make sure whom ever was working for me did what I told them-
like every piece of grass that was suppose to  get weed eat-ed- DID.
NOW, I need an Optima that fits my Harley and my Tiger and IF I can get 8
years, I will be elated. I don't know how you manged to get 15 but they
should pay you to star in a commercial.Cheers,
TonytheTiger






--- On Sun, 7/25/10, Carmods at aol.com <Carmods at aol.com> wrote:


From: Carmods at aol.com <Carmods at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 3:43 PM


_Tiger at Sabr2th.com_ (mailto:Tiger at Sabr2th.com)  writes:

Just replaced the Optima red top battery in my Tiger after 16  years.
Now an article in the latest Hot Rod shows how to get it to charge  again.


Can someone tell us what the Hot Rod article  said?

John  Logan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From achd73 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 26 06:35:29 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 05:35:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
In-Reply-To: <57AE921E0A9D4CA99CE8D6C53B826047@jerry>
Message-ID: <99191.65597.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I (just thinking) believe that Saber Tooth should do the commercial and then
get free batts for life and for his Tiger BUDS as well. OK, maybe just him but
16 years deserves some attention.
TtT

--- On Sun, 7/25/10, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) <JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net> wrote:


, 9:36 AM


Ya, wouldn't it be nice if Optima would suggest to do what the Hot Rod
article suggested?  But no, they want to sell you a new one!!  Wouldn't you
think the "advertisement" of "16 years of Faithfull Service?" would, in the
long run, sell far more batts?? I'm just thinking.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sabr2th
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2010 11:01 PM
To: Tigers
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My Optima Battery

Just replaced the Optima red top battery in my Tiger after 16 years.
Now an article in the latest Hot Rod shows how to get it to charge again.
Darn, probably could have gotten ever more time out of it.
_______________________________________________
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From CoolVT at aol.com  Mon Jul 26 07:02:55 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:02:55 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] My Optima Battery
Message-ID: <10c27e.60e0fd4d.397ee17f@aol.com>

Tony,
The battery that came with my 03 Harley was still  going after 6 yrs when I 
sold it the bike.  I never had a bike battery that  went longer than 3 
yrs.....most went 2.  The newer was a gel battery.   Maybe that's what was the 
difference.  Funny, but the  warranty was the same as the old wet 
acid.....one  year.
Mark  
 
 
In a message dated 7/26/2010 8:33:23 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
achd73 at yahoo.com writes:

John-  Sounds as tho you may have gotten 20 years if you had seen that  
article.
Its hard to imagine any item being made these days lasting beyond  the
warranty- for a fact, most thing go south as soon as the warranty  
expires.That
is one good thing about Sears, you can keep renewing your  warranty and they
continue to honor it. I had a lawn mowing business I  started for my son 
when
he was ten, now there are a ton of zero turn mowers  on trailers. When he 
was
16 I had to beg him to get him to mow, so I would  mow, some years I would 
sub
the yards out but while waiting for my  disability it kept food on the table
and the electric bill paid. A few  years back my grandson came to live with 
me.
he is biracial, so he had a  chip on his shoulder and was pretty lazy, 
until I
paid him, man did the  cash ever motivate him, he had no idea how much 
money he
was making BUT I  got burned out and retired the grasshopper. If my son 
would
have followed  the "old mans" advice he
would have a 150k business and wouldn't have to do  anything but make sure 
the
yards where up to the standards I set as my  business cards'Guranteed 
Services"
said if you weren't happy, it was free,  so I had to go back and inspect the
weed eating to make sure whom ever was  working for me did what I told them-
like every piece of grass that was  suppose to  get weed eat-ed- DID.
NOW, I need an Optima that fits my  Harley and my Tiger and IF I can get 8
years, I will be elated. I don't  know how you manged to get 15 but they
should pay you to star in a  commercial.Cheers,
TonytheTiger






--- On Sun,  7/25/10, Carmods at aol.com <Carmods at aol.com> wrote:


From:  Carmods at aol.com <Carmods at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] My Optima  Battery
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, July 25, 2010, 3:43  PM


_Tiger at Sabr2th.com_ (mailto:Tiger at Sabr2th.com)   writes:

Just replaced the Optima red top battery in my Tiger after  16  years.
Now an article in the latest Hot Rod shows how to get it to  charge  again.


Can someone tell us what the Hot Rod  article  said?

John   Logan
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
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_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net  Tue Jul 27 18:03:30 2010
From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 20:03:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] august social md/va/de/pa
Message-ID: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>

Hi Listers,  I have planned a social dinner for the evening of august 14th at
the fleet researve club in annapolis at 100 compromise street,  annnapolis, md
21401....it's down town next to the Marriott Hotel and Pusser's Landing Bar,
7:00 pm is a good time,  food is good,  drinks are cheap, exellent location,
rsvp to this e-mail,  thanks,  Clyde

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Jul 27 18:23:29 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:23:29 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=UcWXiw_QFvmuL0Bs2K6TdpqkfAEACjr55JQcZ@mail.gmail.com>

I was reading this article on Norms site:

http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/tac/alert.htm
It got me thinking about thew whole re-body issue. Without getting into to
the alger debate, What are peoples thoughts on using a Tiger body to save
another tiger..?  Now in this issue you might say.. why would you need to..
if one is restorable.. then there is no need to swap parts, but what about a
car that no longer has ID's that is solid and a ID car that is a basket
case?

There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it on
another.. and then there is the issue of misrepresenting the hsitory of a
car.. what are peoples thoughts of placing the ID's of a deceased Tiger on a
proper Tiger without ID? I guess int ehory the ultimate Tiger ID swap.


-- 
Regards

Michael King

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Tue Jul 27 18:26:52 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 17:26:52 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] august social md/va/de/pa
In-Reply-To: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
References: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
Message-ID: <4C4F794C.7050705@mayfco.com>

Clyde, sorry, but the Mayfield Clan will not be able to attend the gala 
event.  Especially since we live in Pahrump, Nevada.  But, thanks for 
the invite: we appreciate it!

mayf
worlds fastest sunbeam (wannabe at 186.192 mph so far)


Clyde McLaughlin wrote:

>Hi Listers,  I have planned a social dinner for the evening of august 14th at
>the fleet researve club in annapolis at 100 compromise street,  annnapolis, md
>21401....it's down town next to the Marriott Hotel and Pusser's Landing Bar,
>7:00 pm is a good time,  food is good,  drinks are cheap, exellent location,
>rsvp to this e-mail,  thanks,  Clyde
>_______________________________________________
>Tigers at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Tue Jul 27 19:03:11 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 18:03:11 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=UcWXiw_QFvmuL0Bs2K6TdpqkfAEACjr55JQcZ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=UcWXiw_QFvmuL0Bs2K6TdpqkfAEACjr55JQcZ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C4F81CF.3060805@socal.rr.com>

Michael,

This is a subject akin to "Angels", "dancing" and "pin heads"

I can address the legal restrictions in California.  It is NOT legal to 
remove a VIN from a car without express permission of the Highway 
Patrol.  And this is only for authorized Auto Body Shops, and then only 
to allow restoration of the body, and replacement on the same vehicle it 
was taken from.

Are there exceptions?  Not to my knowledge - except some 50 years ago 
when it was perfectly legal to remove the section of the Ford Frame with 
the serial number stamped in, and re-welded to a chassis of another 
frame (thus hot rods were born.  The concern here was traceability of 
the car's history.

Even as late as the mid-70's, when we built our Red Toi fiberglass car: 
(Have your sound on!)

 < http://tigersunited.com/articles/sl-mc/stevelaifman5.asp >

We met the requirements by actually building the car on my licensed VW 
the  within the existing laws, as the chassis S/N was retained.  A few 
years later the engine was replaced with a Pontiac Fiero V-6, we were 
required to get it inspected and tested for the emissions requirement 
for the year of the engine.

Other states may have other rules.  The TAC rules do not care whether a 
Tiger has a Ford Engine, or anything else a "Concours" car must have.  
Their requirement is that the Chassis rolled of the Tiger Jensen 
Assembly Line, as was all original Tigers.  they have their own experts 
with a lot of knowledge, and a secret list  of what the differences were 
between  an Alpine and a Tiger.  So, in their eyes, the replacement of a 
VIN from a Tiger, onto a car originally a Tiger would be acceptable.

Contact Tom Hall for details.  <modtiger at comcast.net>

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



michael king wrote:
> I was reading this article on Norms site:
>
> http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/tac/alert.htm
> It got me thinking about thew whole re-body issue. Without getting into to
> the alger debate, What are peoples thoughts on using a Tiger body to save
> another tiger..?  Now in this issue you might say.. why would you need to..
> if one is restorable.. then there is no need to swap parts, but what about a
> car that no longer has ID's that is solid and a ID car that is a basket
> case?
>
> There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it on
> another.. and then there is the issue of misrepresenting the hsitory of a
> car.. what are peoples thoughts of placing the ID's of a deceased Tiger on a
> proper Tiger without ID? I guess int ehory the ultimate Tiger ID swap.

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Tue Jul 27 19:10:13 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 11:10:13 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
In-Reply-To: <4C4F81CF.3060805@socal.rr.com>
References: <AANLkTi=UcWXiw_QFvmuL0Bs2K6TdpqkfAEACjr55JQcZ@mail.gmail.com>
	<4C4F81CF.3060805@socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTins_8gFWdCoXJ+jWyhzT2tPVzBcqFTGSYpOjZSx@mail.gmail.com>

 Steve,

I know the car can still be TAC's.. as it is a real Tiger.. not sure the TAC
guys would find that behaviour "acceptable" though.


> The TAC rules do not care whether a Tiger has a Ford Engine, or anything
> else a "Concours" car must have.  Their requirement is that the Chassis
> rolled of the Tiger Jensen Assembly Line, as was all original Tigers.  they
> have their own experts with a lot of knowledge, and a secret list  of what
> the differences were between  an Alpine and a Tiger.  So, in their eyes, the
> replacement of a VIN from a Tiger, onto a car originally a Tiger would be
> acceptable.
>
> Steve
>
>  Steve Laifman
>
> Editor
>
> http://TigersUnited.com <http://tigersunited.com/>
>

-- 
Regards

Michael King

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Jul 28 05:10:51 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 07:10:51 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
Message-ID: <8D500146-852B-4CF1-AAB8-9AE18E864E75@att.net>

Just a note in followup--the Edelbrock carb is now installed on an Edelbrock
F4B with stock air filter and so far so good. I've
driven it maybe ten miles...

The fuel filter has some dark orange flakes in it and will be swapped for a
new one but so far so good.


Allan Ballard

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Jul 28 05:15:59 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 07:15:59 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
Message-ID: <FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>

Three gauges quit working yesterday - fuel, temp and tach.

They were on and off for a while, then off.

I checked the fuse box but found nothing loose and no bad fuse.

Is there another central location for a loose wire or short to cause the three
gauges to stop working?

Thanks in advance,

Allan Ballard
Mk1a Tiger

From CoolVT at aol.com  Wed Jul 28 05:28:24 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 07:28:24 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
Message-ID: <23183a.12ffb9f8.39816e58@aol.com>

The ground wire on many of the gauges is looped from  one gauge to the 
next.  If the ground wire is loose at the end, all of  those gauges could stop 
working. 
Also a fuse making bad contact would create the same  symptoms.  I had that 
problem, cleaned up the fuses and fuse contacts and  problem went away.
I think the most likely is the fuse problem unless  you've been messing 
around under the dash lately.
Mark L
 
 
In a message dated 7/28/2010 7:22:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
allanballard at att.net writes:

Three  gauges quit working yesterday - fuel, temp and tach.

They were on and  off for a while, then off.

I checked the fuse box but found nothing  loose and no bad fuse.

Is there another central location for a loose  wire or short to cause the 
three
gauges to stop working?

Thanks in  advance,

Allan Ballard
Mk1a  Tiger
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Wed Jul 28 07:59:19 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 08:59:19 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <23183a.12ffb9f8.39816e58@aol.com>
References: <23183a.12ffb9f8.39816e58@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD63C@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

One of the most insidious kinds of failure is traceable to the daisy-chained
ground wires. If the ground wire becomes disconnected from the chassis, then
the gauges can still return current through the filaments of the light bulbs.
So the gauges will still sorta-kinda work, except when you turn on the panel
lights... then they go dead. And the panel lights also don't work.

Besides that, the three gauges you describe are fed from the solid-green
colored wire under the dash and off the fuse block. If it becomes disconnected
from the fuse block or the at one of the Lucar bullet connectors then it will
take out all three gauges at once.

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CoolVT at aol.com
> Sent: July 28, 2010 5:28 AM
> To: allanballard at att.net
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
>
> The ground wire on many of the gauges is looped from  one gauge to the
> next.  If the ground wire is loose at the end, all of  those gauges
> could stop
> working.
> Also a fuse making bad contact would create the same  symptoms.  I had
> that
> problem, cleaned up the fuses and fuse contacts and  problem went away.
> I think the most likely is the fuse problem unless  you've been messing
> around under the dash lately.
> Mark L
>
>
> In a message dated 7/28/2010 7:22:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> allanballard at att.net writes:
>
> Three  gauges quit working yesterday - fuel, temp and tach.
>
> They were on and  off for a while, then off.
>


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 08:03:23 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:03:23 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinkbe8CnnBDvdkdvO=yS1kgEyokZQ=nfMww9+zL@mail.gmail.com>

There's a voltage stabilizer behind the dash that's supposed to keep the
voltage constant at @ 12v (see the service manual for the exact voltage).
You might look at he voltage input on one of the failing gauges with a volt
meter and follow the yellow brick road (wiring diagram) if the voltage is
missing or out of spec.

Tom

On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 7:15 AM, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:

> Three gauges quit working yesterday - fuel, temp and tach.
>
> They were on and off for a while, then off.
>
> I checked the fuse box but found nothing loose and no bad fuse.
>
> Is there another central location for a loose wire or short to cause the
> three
> gauges to stop working?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Allan Ballard
> Mk1a Tiger
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Wed Jul 28 08:21:05 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 09:21:05 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinkbe8CnnBDvdkdvO=yS1kgEyokZQ=nfMww9+zL@mail.gmail.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com><DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2><03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net><AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com><E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net><FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>
	<AANLkTinkbe8CnnBDvdkdvO=yS1kgEyokZQ=nfMww9+zL@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD64A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

The stabilizer only regulates the fuel and temperature gauges (to 10 volts
average); the tach has its own internal regulation. However, a failure of the
stabilizer that shorted the (green) circuit to ground would disable all three
gauges.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Parker
> Sent: July 28, 2010 8:03 AM
> To: Allan Ballard
> Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
>
> There's a voltage stabilizer behind the dash that's supposed to keep
> the
> voltage constant at @ 12v (see the service manual for the exact
> voltage).
> You might look at he voltage input on one of the failing gauges with a
> volt
> meter and follow the yellow brick road (wiring diagram) if the voltage
> is
> missing or out of spec.
>
> Tom
>


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 28 08:29:03 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 07:29:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] "POS" carb
In-Reply-To: <8D500146-852B-4CF1-AAB8-9AE18E864E75@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<8D500146-852B-4CF1-AAB8-9AE18E864E75@att.net>
Message-ID: <963321.38032.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Alex

Those dark flakes in the filter are pieces of the coating
coating coming
off the inside of the tanks.  Say thank you
to the EPA idiots requiring
alcohol in the gas.

1,  You MUST remove the tanls and have them coated.
     
Easy but messy to do.  The ist has talked about this often.
      Eastwwod
sells kit, so does JC Whitney.
2.  If you are still driving the car, you
should install a filter
     in the fiel line before the pump.  This will
protect the pump.
    A filter after the pump is too late.

Eventually the
flakes will pump the line and your out of gas.  Also
the flakes can jam the
pump mechanisms.

So Alex, join us all with coated tanks.

Dave
________________________________
From: Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net>
To: Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net>
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed,
July 28, 2010 7:10:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] "POS" carb

Just a note in
followup--the Edelbrock carb is now installed on an Edelbrock
F4B with stock
air filter and so far so good. I've
driven it maybe ten miles...

The fuel
filter has some dark orange flakes in it and will be swapped for a
new one but
so far so good.


Allan Ballard
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com  Wed Jul 28 08:38:43 2010
From: Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com (Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:38:43 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.34420.1280325754.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>

Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to what is being 
claimed here.
It is certainly an interesting theory...
http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm

Paul

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 08:38:49 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:38:49 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD64A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>
	<AANLkTinkbe8CnnBDvdkdvO=yS1kgEyokZQ=nfMww9+zL@mail.gmail.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD64A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikb8oQ+s_vdyU+1M1NPq4O3Fx1uLk1ZyhER3kcT@mail.gmail.com>

True. (I looked at the Mark 2 diagram). Grounding is simple to check, so's
voltage. I suspect but don't know, that a short in the stabilizer would
awaken the smoke gods or blow the fuse.

Anyhow, schedule the Chiropractor and take a look. A jumper clipped to frame
ground and the back mounting stud of a gauge verifies the grounding, a meter
verifies the voltage stabilizer. There's always the possibility of multiple
failures (In electronics it's much more common than one might think...), so
take it one gauge at a time.

God hunting, Allan!

Tom

On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 10:21 AM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>wrote:

> The stabilizer only regulates the fuel and temperature gauges (to 10 volts
> average); the tach has its own internal regulation. However, a failure of
> the stabilizer that shorted the (green) circuit to ground would disable all
> three gauges.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Parker
> > Sent: July 28, 2010 8:03 AM
> > To: Allan Ballard
> > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
> >
> > There's a voltage stabilizer behind the dash that's supposed to keep
> > the
> > voltage constant at @ 12v (see the service manual for the exact
> > voltage).
> > You might look at he voltage input on one of the failing gauges with a
> > volt
> > meter and follow the yellow brick road (wiring diagram) if the voltage
> > is
> > missing or out of spec.
> >
> > Tom
> >
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
> sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this
> e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in
> error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.

From wseay at embarqmail.com  Wed Jul 28 08:51:28 2010
From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:51:28 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <23183a.12ffb9f8.39816e58@aol.com>
References: <23183a.12ffb9f8.39816e58@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cb2e64$5c61c630$15255290$@com>

The lights in those gauges rely on the same (daisy-chained) ground to work.
If the instruments will light when the panel light switch is ON then the
problem can't be the ground.  If they won't light, it almost has to be the
ground.

Will

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CoolVT at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:28 AM
To: allanballard at att.net
Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working

The ground wire on many of the gauges is looped from  one gauge to the 
next.  If the ground wire is loose at the end, all of  those gauges could
stop 
working. 
Also a fuse making bad contact would create the same  symptoms.  I had that 
problem, cleaned up the fuses and fuse contacts and  problem went away.
I think the most likely is the fuse problem unless  you've been messing 
around under the dash lately.
Mark L

://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wseay at embarqmail.com

From fastsage at cox.net  Wed Jul 28 09:40:16 2010
From: fastsage at cox.net (Steve Sage)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 08:40:16 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <000001cb2e64$5c61c630$15255290$@com>
References: <23183a.12ffb9f8.39816e58@aol.com>
	<000001cb2e64$5c61c630$15255290$@com>
Message-ID: <4C504F60.8070002@cox.net>

If the three gauges stopped functioning it almost has to be the voltage 
stabilizer. If you've ever looked at that piece out from behind the 
dash, it is a very fragile item. When mine went bad several years ago I 
bought an intermittent wiper "tube" with a built in solid state voltage 
stabilizer from Ed Esslinger in Alabama. It eliminates the factory 
piece. It's worked perfectly ever since, plus, on the rare occasions it 
does rain here in the Arizona desert, it's cool to be able to set your 
wiper speed to your liking.

Ed, are you on the Tiger list these days and still making those?

Steve Sage






=======
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From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 09:46:58 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 11:46:58 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Prestige AutoWood Dash
Message-ID: <AANLkTikDbzH7x1mqkB5HW0Pmo3+_NUSKW67o2=xWUmG9@mail.gmail.com>

As part of the complete rebuild of my Mark 2 Tiger I ordered a new wood dash
from Randy Keller at Prestige AutoWood. I think Randy supplies Rick at
Sunbeam Specialties, but don't know if they're the "Elite" dashes he offers
direct from his shop.

First observations: The dash is beautiful. The front is burled walnut
veneer, the body is birch plywood, all the edges of the recesses on the back
are rounded off (no sharp corners) and the front and back are finished to a
mirror sheen. No loose laminations or splinters as on the original dash.
Definitely a show quality dash. By far the best part of the old Kitty (She's
had a hard life, was resurrected from the grave by my guru in New Hampshire
and will never be a coucours car...)

So... if you're looking, consider Perstige AutoWood. There's a website built
by a friend, but you'll have to call him direct to order.

www.*prestigeautowood*.com/

Tom

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Jul 28 09:47:56 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 11:47:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikb8oQ+s_vdyU+1M1NPq4O3Fx1uLk1ZyhER3kcT@mail.gmail.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>
	<AANLkTinkbe8CnnBDvdkdvO=yS1kgEyokZQ=nfMww9+zL@mail.gmail.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD64A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<AANLkTikb8oQ+s_vdyU+1M1NPq4O3Fx1uLk1ZyhER3kcT@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0ACE5C34-2DBD-4E5F-BF5D-EED73705D5ED@att.net>

Mike, everyone,

voila!  :)

One side of fuse box needed "treatment" with a small file--now the gauges are
working again...

Thanks,

Allan


On Jul 28, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Tom Parker wrote:

> True. (I looked at the Mark 2 diagram). Grounding is simple to check, so's
voltage. I suspect but don't know, that a short in the stabilizer would awaken
the smoke gods or blow the fuse.
>
> Anyhow, schedule the Chiropractor and take a look. A jumper clipped to frame
ground and the back mounting stud of a gauge verifies the grounding, a meter
verifies the voltage stabilizer. There's always the possibility of multiple
failures (In electronics it's much more common than one might think...), so
take it one gauge at a time.
>
> God hunting, Allan!
>
> Tom
>
> On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 10:21 AM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
wrote:
> The stabilizer only regulates the fuel and temperature gauges (to 10 volts
average); the tach has its own internal regulation. However, a failure of the
stabilizer that shorted the (green) circuit to ground would disable all three
gauges.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Parker
> > Sent: July 28, 2010 8:03 AM
> > To: Allan Ballard
> > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
> >
> > There's a voltage stabilizer behind the dash that's supposed to keep
> > the
> > voltage constant at @ 12v (see the service manual for the exact
> > voltage).
> > You might look at he voltage input on one of the failing gauges with a
> > volt
> > meter and follow the yellow brick road (wiring diagram) if the voltage
> > is
> > missing or out of spec.
> >
> > Tom
> >
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this
e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in
error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.

From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 28 09:57:42 2010
From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 08:57:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Check your rivets
Message-ID: <370383.95994.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

"There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it on
another.."
 
You can't even remove it and place it back on the same car without causing
"legal" problems with some state's DMV.  I was watching a collector car show
last week ( don't remember the show or hosts name.  only that his garage is in
the northeast and has white hair and moustace. the show may have been on the
Discovery channel. )  The guy went to a well known auction to sell a few high
end cars and the auction was raided by the local DMV. Around 15 cars where
pulled from auction because the DMV said the vin tags had been removed and
replaced with the wrong rivets among other things. 
 
 
                                                     Jeff 

From jteepen at usatoday.com  Wed Jul 28 10:04:41 2010
From: jteepen at usatoday.com (Teepen, Jere)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:04:41 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <0ACE5C34-2DBD-4E5F-BF5D-EED73705D5ED@att.net>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>
	<AANLkTinkbe8CnnBDvdkdvO=yS1kgEyokZQ=nfMww9+zL@mail.gmail.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD64A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<AANLkTikb8oQ+s_vdyU+1M1NPq4O3Fx1uLk1ZyhER3kcT@mail.gmail.com>
	<0ACE5C34-2DBD-4E5F-BF5D-EED73705D5ED@att.net>
Message-ID: <E4CE827F20FD96468B9A6743B6E155442EF31171@ENT-MOCEXCMB05.us.ad.gannett.com>

Fuses can also be bad and look as though they should be okay.  On older fuses
the fuse material can become dislodged inside the end cap and make
intermittent contact.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 8:48 AM
To: Tom Parker
Cc: Smit, Theo; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working

Mike, everyone,

voila!  :)

One side of fuse box needed "treatment" with a small file--now the gauges are
working again...

Thanks,

Allan


On Jul 28, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Tom Parker wrote:

> True. (I looked at the Mark 2 diagram). Grounding is simple to check, so's
voltage. I suspect but don't know, that a short in the stabilizer would
awaken
the smoke gods or blow the fuse.
>
> Anyhow, schedule the Chiropractor and take a look. A jumper clipped to
frame
ground and the back mounting stud of a gauge verifies the grounding, a meter
verifies the voltage stabilizer. There's always the possibility of multiple
failures (In electronics it's much more common than one might think...), so
take it one gauge at a time.
>
> God hunting, Allan!
>
> Tom
>
> On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 10:21 AM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
wrote:
> The stabilizer only regulates the fuel and temperature gauges (to 10 volts
average); the tach has its own internal regulation. However, a failure of the
stabilizer that shorted the (green) circuit to ground would disable all three
gauges.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Parker
> > Sent: July 28, 2010 8:03 AM
> > To: Allan Ballard
> > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
> >
> > There's a voltage stabilizer behind the dash that's supposed to keep
> > the
> > voltage constant at @ 12v (see the service manual for the exact
> > voltage).
> > You might look at he voltage input on one of the failing gauges with a
> > volt
> > meter and follow the yellow brick road (wiring diagram) if the voltage
> > is
> > missing or out of spec.
> >
> > Tom

From CoolVT at aol.com  Wed Jul 28 10:12:25 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:12:25 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
Message-ID: <247523.ae84a65.3981b0e9@aol.com>

Yup,  same problem and cure that I had.  
 
 
In a message dated 7/28/2010 11:54:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
allanballard at att.net writes:

Mike,  everyone,

voila!  :)

One side of fuse box needed  "treatment" with a small file--now the gauges 
are
working  again...

Thanks,

Allan


On Jul 28, 2010, at 10:38 AM,  Tom Parker wrote:

> True. (I looked at the Mark 2 diagram).  Grounding is simple to check, 
so's
voltage. I suspect but don't know, that  a short in the stabilizer would 
awaken
the smoke gods or blow the  fuse.
>
> Anyhow, schedule the Chiropractor and take a look. A  jumper clipped to 
frame
ground and the back mounting stud of a gauge  verifies the grounding, a 
meter
verifies the voltage stabilizer. There's  always the possibility of multiple
failures (In electronics it's much more  common than one might think...), so
take it one gauge at a  time.
>
> God hunting, Allan!
>
> Tom
>
>  On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 10:21 AM, Smit, Theo  <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
wrote:
> The stabilizer only  regulates the fuel and temperature gauges (to 10 
volts
average); the tach  has its own internal regulation. However, a failure of 
the
stabilizer that  shorted the (green) circuit to ground would disable all  
three
gauges.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original  Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom  Parker
> > Sent: July 28, 2010 8:03 AM
> > To: Allan  Ballard
> > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re:  [Tigers] 3 gauges stopped working
> >
> > There's a voltage  stabilizer behind the dash that's supposed to keep
> > the
>  > voltage constant at @ 12v (see the service manual for the exact
>  > voltage).
> > You might look at he voltage input on one of the  failing gauges with a
> > volt
> > meter and follow the  yellow brick road (wiring diagram) if the voltage
> > is
> >  missing or out of spec.
> >
> > Tom
>  >
>
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
---
>  This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for  
the
sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended  recipient,
please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or  use of this
e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received  this e-mail in
error, please contact the sender and delete all  copies.
>
> Thank you for your  cooperation.
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From v8tracker at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 10:25:04 2010
From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 11:25:04 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
In-Reply-To: <OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>
References: <mailman.34420.1280325754.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
	<OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>
Message-ID: <6EA1BD4F7AF342D78A4E45395154D30A@DellD4700>

Group,

Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good. Perhaps, too
good to be true.

I would love to see some independent test results. Since the "inventor" has
gone to the trouble and expense of getting a U. S. patent, I find it hard to
believe that he has been unable to afford to get properly controlled tests
done anywhere in the world. There must be thousands of dynos and labs that
could and would do the work.

The anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done nothing
to stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as dramatic as is
claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using it. What racer would
not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower? 

What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do you think Singh grooves would this put you well
into the 200 mph club?

A. C. Tynes
New Orleans

 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:39 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
> 
> Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to 
> what is being claimed here.
> It is certainly an interesting theory...
> http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm
> 
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com
> 
> Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.839 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3005 - Release 
> Date: 07/14/10 13:36:00

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Jul 28 10:25:48 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:25:48 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=UcWXiw_QFvmuL0Bs2K6TdpqkfAEACjr55JQcZ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <05F9D38425644718852A8DE18B053EDA@ronpc1>

Michael
	There are way too many legal and moral issues here.   I would not do
an ID swap but I would check with the DMV for their take on this; there
might just be a process in your State. Once you ask, you do open the door
for investigation; maybe the information is available online in your State.
A State issued Vin number would make a good Tiger story too.

If the original engine number tag or JAL tag is still with the Tiger without
ID; you might be able to work back to the Original Vin number.   You might
be able to research and document the original Vin to go with the Tiger.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of michael king
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 8:23 PM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID


I was reading this article on Norms site:

http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/tac/alert.htm
It got me thinking about thew whole re-body issue. Without getting into to
the alger debate, What are peoples thoughts on using a Tiger body to save
another tiger..?  Now in this issue you might say.. why would you need to..
if one is restorable.. then there is no need to swap parts, but what about a
car that no longer has ID's that is solid and a ID car that is a basket
case?

There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it on
another.. and then there is the issue of misrepresenting the hsitory of a
car.. what are peoples thoughts of placing the ID's of a deceased Tiger on a
proper Tiger without ID? I guess int ehory the ultimate Tiger ID swap.


--
Regards

Michael King

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Wed Jul 28 10:30:17 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 09:30:17 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
References: <OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>
Message-ID: <A12219E8F8C14C87867CCD0D423BC9CD@student2>

Yes!  It was a rather heated discussing over on the ALLPAR web site about 
two years ago. One guy (a very knowledgeable contributor) was very opposed 
to the concept. He said it was far better to round off the sharp edges from 
the chamber to the "squish" area than to cut these Singh/Somender grooves. 
If you go to the ALLPAR site and do a search you should find all you need on 
the debate.

I'd like to see real dyno numbers, temperature results and a long term 
durability.

Tom




> Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to what is being
> claimed here.
> It is certainly an interesting theory...
> http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm
>
> Paul

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Jul 28 10:35:12 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:35:12 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
In-Reply-To: <05F9D38425644718852A8DE18B053EDA@ronpc1>
References: <05F9D38425644718852A8DE18B053EDA@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <AB6B9C83-F673-41EA-9816-028ADFBEAD7F@att.net>

Alternately the TAC guys could offer a special "VIN" plate stating that, in
their view, the vehicle is
genuine, and could assign a synthetic VIN on their special plate, which in
turn could be designed to
resemble closely a factory VIN plate...

Just my 0.02$ worth...

Allan Ballard


On Jul 28, 2010, at 12:25 PM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Michael
> 	There are way too many legal and moral issues here.   I would not do
> an ID swap but I would check with the DMV for their take on this; there
> might just be a process in your State. Once you ask, you do open the door
> for investigation; maybe the information is available online in your State.
> A State issued Vin number would make a good Tiger story too.
>
> If the original engine number tag or JAL tag is still with the Tiger
without
> ID; you might be able to work back to the Original Vin number.   You might
> be able to research and document the original Vin to go with the Tiger.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of michael king
> Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 8:23 PM
> To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
> Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
>
>
> I was reading this article on Norms site:
>
> http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/tac/alert.htm
> It got me thinking about thew whole re-body issue. Without getting into to
> the alger debate, What are peoples thoughts on using a Tiger body to save
> another tiger..?  Now in this issue you might say.. why would you need to..
> if one is restorable.. then there is no need to swap parts, but what about
a
> car that no longer has ID's that is solid and a ID car that is a basket
> case?
>
> There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it on
> another.. and then there is the issue of misrepresenting the hsitory of a
> car.. what are peoples thoughts of placing the ID's of a deceased Tiger on
a
> proper Tiger without ID? I guess int ehory the ultimate Tiger ID swap.
>
>
> --
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/allanballard at att.net

From tigger at missiongranite.com  Wed Jul 28 10:35:25 2010
From: tigger at missiongranite.com (Alan Zeni)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 09:35:25 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fw:  head grooves?
Message-ID: <000701cb2e72$e1bbc5c0$d7a2d748@mgserver>

There was an article on this in, I believe, Popluar Science a few years ago.
I believe that the inventor was in India (makes sense with the name).  I
recall that there was going to be a motor car company backing him.  It
should be searchable on the net somewhere.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker at gmail.com>
To: <Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] head grooves?


> Group,
>
> Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good. Perhaps,
too
> good to be true.
>
> I would love to see some independent test results. Since the "inventor"
has
> gone to the trouble and expense of getting a U. S. patent, I find it hard
to
> believe that he has been unable to afford to get properly controlled tests
> done anywhere in the world. There must be thousands of dynos and labs that
> could and would do the work.
>
> The anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done nothing
> to stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as dramatic as
is
> claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using it. What racer would
> not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower?
>
> What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do you think Singh grooves would this put you well
> into the 200 mph club?
>
> A. C. Tynes
> New Orleans
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> > Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:39 AM
> > To: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
> >
> > Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to
> > what is being claimed here.
> > It is certainly an interesting theory...
> > http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm
> >
> > Paul
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com
> >
> > Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 9.0.839 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3005 - Release
> > Date: 07/14/10 13:36:00
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tigger at missiongranite.com

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Wed Jul 28 10:35:15 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 09:35:15 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Check your rivets
References: <370383.95994.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F8FB87A1A30E4B83B855F42FA7985D7C@student2>

I saw that show too.  My first thought when the DMV showed up was that they 
would have a "field day" with  Tigers.  Actually it would have been very 
interesting to a see an Alger BEING PASSED OFF as a real Tiger and getting 
nailed.  Just to put the fear into a forger!
Tom


----- Original Message ----- 

> "There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it 
> on
> another.."
>
> You can't even remove it and place it back on the same car without causing
> "legal" problems with some state's DMV.  I was watching a collector car 
> show
> last week ( don't remember the show or hosts name.  only that his garage 
> is in
> the northeast and has white hair and moustace. the show may have been on 
> the
> Discovery channel. )  The guy went to a well known auction to sell a few 
> high
> end cars and the auction was raided by the local DMV. Around 15 cars where
> pulled from auction because the DMV said the vin tags had been removed and
> replaced with the wrong rivets among other things.
>
>
>                                                     Jeff
> _______________________________________________

From CoolVT at aol.com  Wed Jul 28 10:39:45 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:39:45 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Check your rivets
Message-ID: <249b8a.1f5857a1.3981b751@aol.com>

Think these guys actually get trained on rivets!  
 
 
In a message dated 7/28/2010 11:57:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jxnichols at sbcglobal.net writes:

"There  is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it  
on
another.."

You can't even remove it and place it back on the same  car without causing
"legal" problems with some state's DMV.  I was  watching a collector car 
show
last week ( don't remember the show or hosts  name.  only that his garage 
is in
the northeast and has white hair and  moustace. the show may have been on 
the
Discovery channel. )  The guy  went to a well known auction to sell a few 
high
end cars and the auction  was raided by the local DMV. Around 15 cars where
pulled from auction  because the DMV said the vin tags had been removed and
replaced with the  wrong rivets among other things. 


Jeff  
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Wed Jul 28 10:43:32 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 09:43:32 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
References: <AANLkTi=UcWXiw_QFvmuL0Bs2K6TdpqkfAEACjr55JQcZ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0EA53F1B87834FC98445B2275735C2C7@student2>

If your dad was Paul Revere and you were his son with the same name would it 
be appropriate to say you made the "Midnight Ride?"

Each Tiger was given a number for one unique purpose - to distinguish it 
from any other Tiger.  I feel your pain for the scenario you present. It 
seems very tempting. But in the end you have not added anything to the real 
Tiger without I.D.  At some point it seems a TAC sticker would give a Tiger 
more value than the original I.D. tag and no TAC sticker.
Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
To: "Tiger Talk List Tiger" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 5:23 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID


>I was reading this article on Norms site:
>
> http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/tac/alert.htm
> It got me thinking about thew whole re-body issue. Without getting into to
> the alger debate, What are peoples thoughts on using a Tiger body to save
> another tiger..?  Now in this issue you might say.. why would you need 
> to..
> if one is restorable.. then there is no need to swap parts, but what about 
> a
> car that no longer has ID's that is solid and a ID car that is a basket
> case?
>
> There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it 
> on
> another.. and then there is the issue of misrepresenting the hsitory of a
> car.. what are peoples thoughts of placing the ID's of a deceased Tiger on 
> a
> proper Tiger without ID? I guess int ehory the ultimate Tiger ID swap.
>
>
> -- 
> Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3029 - Release Date: 07/26/10 
06:36:00

From owain.lloyd at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 10:44:15 2010
From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 17:44:15 +0100
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: head grooves?
In-Reply-To: <000701cb2e72$e1bbc5c0$d7a2d748@mgserver>
References: <000701cb2e72$e1bbc5c0$d7a2d748@mgserver>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik3yx+WcipXuWBTwURo-0EPAdJnmC-Zy0V_GvUg@mail.gmail.com>

i don't know, but just taking off and old gunked up head and cleaning up
everything including the valves would produce some of these improvements.
makes me wonder why i bothered just having some metal rearrangements
smoothed out in the combustion chamber of a head that snapped a valve....

On Wed, Jul 28, 2010 at 5:35 PM, Alan Zeni <tigger at missiongranite.com>wrote:

> There was an article on this in, I believe, Popluar Science a few years
> ago.
> I believe that the inventor was in India (makes sense with the name).  I
> recall that there was going to be a motor car company backing him.  It
> should be searchable on the net somewhere.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker at gmail.com>
> To: <Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] head grooves?
>
>
> > Group,
> >
> > Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good. Perhaps,
> too
> > good to be true.
> >
> > I would love to see some independent test results. Since the "inventor"
> has
> > gone to the trouble and expense of getting a U. S. patent, I find it hard
> to
> > believe that he has been unable to afford to get properly controlled
> tests
> > done anywhere in the world. There must be thousands of dynos and labs
> that
> > could and would do the work.
> >
> > The anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done
> nothing
> > to stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as dramatic as
> is
> > claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using it. What racer
> would
> > not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower?
> >
> > What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do you think Singh grooves would this put you
> well
> > into the 200 mph club?
> >
> > A. C. Tynes
> > New Orleans
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> > > Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:39 AM
> > > To: tigers at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
> > >
> > > Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to
> > > what is being claimed here.
> > > It is certainly an interesting theory...
> > > http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm
> > >
> > > Paul
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com
> > >
> > > Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > Version: 9.0.839 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3005 - Release
> > > Date: 07/14/10 13:36:00
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tigger at missiongranite.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com

From drmayf at mayfco.com  Wed Jul 28 10:56:01 2010
From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 09:56:01 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
In-Reply-To: <6EA1BD4F7AF342D78A4E45395154D30A@DellD4700>
References: <mailman.34420.1280325754.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
	<OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>
	<6EA1BD4F7AF342D78A4E45395154D30A@DellD4700>
Message-ID: <4C506121.4090405@mayfco.com>

The other factor involved is given less attention here. He milled the 
heads 0.060. That makes the squish area physicaly thinner maybe more 
effective all by itself.  Increasing the compresson ratio because of 
that also helps power output.  Now, it may be that for sure he hit on 
something simple that does work. But, does it work for all motors?  I 
too would like to see some additional data.  I would actually like to 
hear the story of why he thought that would work in the first place. Or 
some analyses showing that it would work.

I won't do it to my aluminum heads on the race car though, lol.

mayf

A. C. Tynes wrote:

>Group,
>
>Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good. Perhaps, too
>good to be true.
>
>I would love to see some independent test results. Since the "inventor" has
>gone to the trouble and expense of getting a U. S. patent, I find it hard to
>believe that he has been unable to afford to get properly controlled tests
>done anywhere in the world. There must be thousands of dynos and labs that
>could and would do the work.
>
>The anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done nothing
>to stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as dramatic as is
>claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using it. What racer would
>not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower? 
>
>What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do you think Singh grooves would this put you well
>into the 200 mph club?
>
>A. C. Tynes
>New Orleans
>
> 
>
>  
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
>>[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
>>Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com
>>Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:39 AM
>>To: tigers at autox.team.net
>>Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
>>
>>Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to 
>>what is being claimed here.
>>It is certainly an interesting theory...
>>http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm
>>
>>Paul
>>_______________________________________________

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 28 11:01:14 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:01:14 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?head_grooves=3F?=
Message-ID: <20100728170010.ED2C518764C@autox.team.net>

Although I can't be sure, that head looks like a mg c head. The quench area design on a Ford small block, and the c is very different. 
Technically what is written may be true, but my thoughts are that the gains would be small. I would think the groove might fill with carbon , too. 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com
Date: Wed, Jul 28, 2010 09:38
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>

Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to what is being 
claimed here.
It is certainly an interesting theory...
http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm

Paul
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net

From tigger at missiongranite.com  Wed Jul 28 11:17:28 2010
From: tigger at missiongranite.com (Alan Zeni)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:17:28 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Fw:  Fw:  head grooves?
Message-ID: <004f01cb2e78$c187d950$d7a2d748@mgserver>

Found the article.....
http://www.popsci.com/cars/article/2004-09/obsession-mr-singhs-search-holy-grail
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Zeni" <tigger at missiongranite.com>
To: "tiger" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:35 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Fw: head grooves?


> There was an article on this in, I believe, Popluar Science a few years
ago.
> I believe that the inventor was in India (makes sense with the name).  I
> recall that there was going to be a motor car company backing him.  It
> should be searchable on the net somewhere.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "A. C. Tynes" <v8tracker at gmail.com>
> To: <Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] head grooves?
>
>
> > Group,
> >
> > Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good. Perhaps,
> too
> > good to be true.
> >
> > I would love to see some independent test results. Since the "inventor"
> has
> > gone to the trouble and expense of getting a U. S. patent, I find it
hard
> to
> > believe that he has been unable to afford to get properly controlled
tests
> > done anywhere in the world. There must be thousands of dynos and labs
that
> > could and would do the work.
> >
> > The anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done
nothing
> > to stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as dramatic as
> is
> > claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using it. What racer
would
> > not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower?
> >
> > What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do you think Singh grooves would this put you
well
> > into the 200 mph club?
> >
> > A. C. Tynes
> > New Orleans
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> > > Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:39 AM
> > > To: tigers at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
> > >
> > > Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to
> > > what is being claimed here.
> > > It is certainly an interesting theory...
> > > http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm
> > >
> > > Paul
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com
> > >
> > > Internal Virus Database is out of date.
> > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > Version: 9.0.839 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3005 - Release
> > > Date: 07/14/10 13:36:00
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tigger at missiongranite.com
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
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From todbrown at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul 28 11:27:15 2010
From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 13:27:15 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Check Your Rivets
Message-ID: <4C506873.5000304@roadrunner.com>

"I was watching a collector car show
last week ( don't remember the show or hosts name.  only that his garage is in
the northeast and has white hair and moustace. the show may have been on the
Discovery channel. )  The guy went to a well known auction to sell a few high
end cars and the auction was raided by the local DMV. Around 15 cars where
pulled from auction because the DMV said the vin tags had been removed and
replaced with the wrong rivets among other things."

The show is called "Chasing Classic Cars" and I see it on HDTV (maybe also on the Discovery Channel).  The guy's name is Wayne Carini and he runs a shop called F40 Motors in Portland, CT.  I think there is more info onhttp://turbo.com   I have recently seen a promo for the show in which Wayne makes a pitch for acquiring Tigers and compares them to Cobras, just cheaper.

Tod
B382002384LRXFE

Don't forget to register for RootesUnited 2010 in Rockland, Maine in October.  Gotohttp://RootesAmerica.org  for more info.

From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 28 11:32:56 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 10:32:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Check your rivets
In-Reply-To: <370383.95994.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <370383.95994.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <212080.91124.qm@web111601.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I can't believe you guys let a state agency rull your lives.
Fire the idiots
at the ballot box and let them know.
Who does the BMV think they are, hassling
owners of\classic cars?

My Tiger was repainted 40 years ago after an
accident.  Yes the
ID plate was remove, but the JAL TAG was left alone.  IL
did
not care to even check the VIN.  The cop just checked that the
VIN matched
the title.  Gave IL some money and the Title is
in my name.  I noted to Norm
Miller that the ID had screws not
rivets.  It has been TAC'd without problems.
In 1970 one of the founders of the old Chicago Tiger club had his
car painted
a beautiful metallic siver and blacked out the chrome
The painter lost the
tags.  Then he moved to Texas.  There the
Supercops Police declared that
without VIN tags, they would
not title it in Texasand considered it stolen and
subject to
confication a stolen property.

What would you do?  He called on
the old Sunbeam group.  We
had junked a unrestorable Tiger (rus you would not
believe) and
I kept the VIN and ID TAGS. and matching IL Title. I also got the
 cross member with rack, steering extention, gauges, etc.  The hulk
is in a
bean field in Northern IL.  The MKIA  ID number was within
 100 of the Texas
Tiger.  A donation to the club got a new title, ID, 
and Tag for the Texas
Tiger.  A simple switch and now the Supercops
were convinced it was a legit
car BTW I reported the orginal Texas 
number to Norm as junked.  I don't think
many and tell the difference
in two Tigers that were made so closely apart.
Yes the Texas Tiger looks great and has been TAC'd.

Just last week, I was
watching a very upset man, angry because he
could not get a plate for his
homemade trailer he had been using
for years.  With a title IN considered is
stolen.  Outside I saw
him ranting and raving,  I told him 'Play the game. 
Get someone
like your brother give you a fake bill of sale, date it 3 weeka
ago,
and try again next week.  I saw him at Walmart and asked how
it went.  He
said no big deal.  The BMV took the bill of sale and
he had to pay sales tax
on $5.  He then was issued a trailer plate.

As I said.  Play the game.  If
they want a bill of same, make one,
and go somewhere else.  If they want pop
rivets,  get some
rivets and make trhem look used and then pop rivet you
Plate.Most 
supercops can't tell what a correct rivet looks like.

Remember
the guys are public servants.  Don't let them rule tou
lives.  In Indiana BMV
is now making a big issue of ID caused
by the wonderless Homeland Security
Group.  No picture ID
at the BMV, they must be mailed to your verified
address.
If you go to your local AAA office, they have an exemption
from the
Homeland requirements.  They offer licenses, title,
and plates with no hassle
at all.

For everyone else...move to Indiana.

Dave




 
________________________________
From: Jeffrey Nichols
<jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010
11:57:42 AM
Subject: [Tigers] Check your rivets

"There is an issue legally
that you can not remove a cars ID and place it on
another.."

You can't even
remove it and place it back on the same car without causing
"legal" problems
with some state's DMV.  I was watching a collector car show
last week ( don't
remember the show or hosts name.  only that his garage is in
the northeast and
has white hair and moustace. the show may have been on the
Discovery channel.
)  The guy went to a well known auction to sell a few high
end cars and the
auction was raided by the local DMV. Around 15 cars where
pulled from auction
because the DMV said the vin tags had been removed and
replaced with the wrong
rivets among other things. 


                                               
    Jeff 
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Jul 28 11:49:35 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 13:49:35 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
In-Reply-To: <4C506121.4090405@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <42C0A0A454F5491A8576AA9A24FF385F@ronpc1>

	As an engineer type I would like to see a side be side study of 2
identical engines with baseline study and single step data to support all
the claims.   It is too easy to throw a bunch of time and money at this and
say look what I found and look at the gains, using seat of the pants
reckoning.   I can't say this does not work but I would like to see a
structured study with repeatable results.

	Much like the magnet on the fuel line would give you 5 to 10%
mileage increase; if you read the instructions for that product you put new
spark plugs in and a number of other tune up items then put the magnet on
and bingo you get better gas mileage because of the magnet on the fuel line.
Did you notice the diamond tip spark plugs or what ever they are call in the
picture; they are suppose to increase mileage by themselves.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of drmayf
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 12:56 PM
To: A. C. Tynes
Cc: Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] head grooves?


The other factor involved is given less attention here. He milled the
heads 0.060. That makes the squish area physicaly thinner maybe more
effective all by itself.  Increasing the compresson ratio because of
that also helps power output.  Now, it may be that for sure he hit on
something simple that does work. But, does it work for all motors?  I
too would like to see some additional data.  I would actually like to
hear the story of why he thought that would work in the first place. Or
some analyses showing that it would work.

I won't do it to my aluminum heads on the race car though, lol.

mayf

A. C. Tynes wrote:

>Group,
>
>Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good. Perhaps,
>too good to be true.
>
>I would love to see some independent test results. Since the "inventor"
>has gone to the trouble and expense of getting a U. S. patent, I find
>it hard to believe that he has been unable to afford to get properly
>controlled tests done anywhere in the world. There must be thousands of
>dynos and labs that could and would do the work.
>
>The anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done
>nothing to stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as
>dramatic as is claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using
>it. What racer would not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower?
>
>What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do you think Singh grooves would this put you
>well into the 200 mph club?
>
>A. C. Tynes
>New Orleans

From Heiko.Boesling at heikoboesling.de  Wed Jul 28 12:15:02 2010
From: Heiko.Boesling at heikoboesling.de (Heiko.Boesling at heikoboesling.de)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 18:15:02 +0000
Subject: [Tigers] AUTOREPLY Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 345
Message-ID: <00005FE5.4C508FC6@192.168.135.4>

Vielen Danke fr Ihre Nachricht.
Ich befinde mich bis einschlielich 13.08.2010 im Urlaub.

Mit freundlichen Gren

Heiko Bsling
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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: head grooves? ( Ron Fraser)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 13:49:35 -0400
From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser at bluefrog.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] head grooves?
To: <drmayf at mayfco.com>, "'A. C. Tynes'" <v8tracker at gmail.com>
Cc: Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com, tigers at autox.team.net
	As an engineer type I would like to see a side be side study of 2
identical engines with baseline study and single step data to support all
the claims.   It is too easy to throw a bunch of time and money at this and
say look what I found and look at the gains, using seat of the pants
reckoning.   I can't say this does not work but I would like to see a
structured study with repeatable results.

	Much like the magnet on the fuel line would give you 5 to 10%
mileage increase; if you read the instructions for that product you put new
spark plugs in and a number of other tune up items then put the magnet on
and bingo you get better gas mileage because of the magnet on the fuel line.
Did you notice the diamond tip spark plugs or what ever they are call in the
picture; they are suppose to increase mileage by themselves.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of drmayf
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 12:56 PM
To: A. C. Tynes
Cc: Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] head grooves?


The other factor involved is given less attention here. He milled the
heads 0.060. That makes the squish area physicaly thinner maybe more
effective all by itself.  Increasing the compresson ratio because of
that also helps power output.  Now, it may be that for sure he hit on
something simple that does work. But, does it work for all motors?  I
too would like to see some additional data.  I would actually like to
hear the story of why he thought that would work in the first place. Or
some analyses showing that it would work.

I won't do it to my aluminum heads on the race car though, lol.

mayf

A. C. Tynes wrote:

>Group,
>
>Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good. Perhaps,
>too good to be true.
>
>I would love to see some independent test results. Since the "inventor"
>has gone to the trouble and expense of getting a U. S. patent, I find
>it hard to believe that he has been unable to afford to get properly
>controlled tests done anywhere in the world. There must be thousands of
>dynos and labs that could and would do the work.
>
>The anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done
>nothing to stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as
>dramatic as is claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using
>it. What racer would not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower?
>
>What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do you think Singh grooves would this put you
>well into the 200 mph club?
>
>A. C. Tynes
>New Orleans


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
Tigers mailing list
Tigers at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers


End of Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 345
**************************************

To: tigers at autox.team.net

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 28 12:18:32 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 13:18:32 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Tiger_ID?=
Message-ID: <20100728181730.1CED418764C@autox.team.net>

I'm not certain this analogy is correct.  I will say though, that if you are selling a car overseas, you had better not send it with POP rivets. The eu won't let it in.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>
Date: Wed, Jul 28, 2010 11:43
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>

If your dad was Paul Revere and you were his son with the same name would it be appropriate to say you made the "Midnight Ride?"

Each Tiger was given a number for one unique purpose - to distinguish it from any other Tiger.  I feel your pain for the scenario you present. It seems very tempting. But in the end you have not added anything to the real Tiger without I.D.  At some point it seems a TAC sticker would give a Tiger more value than the original I.D. tag and no TAC sticker.
Tom

----- Original Message ----- From: "michael king" <michael.s.king at gmail.com>
To: "Tiger Talk List Tiger" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 5:23 PM
Subject: [Tigers] Tiger ID


>I was reading this article on Norms site:
>
> http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/tac/alert.htm
> It got me thinking about thew whole re-body issue. Without getting into to
> the alger debate, What are peoples thoughts on using a Tiger body to save
> another tiger..?  Now in this issue you might say.. why would you need > to..
> if one is restorable.. then there is no need to swap parts, but what about > a
> car that no longer has ID's that is solid and a ID car that is a basket
> case?
>
> There is an issue legally that you can not remove a cars ID and place it > on
> another.. and then there is the issue of misrepresenting the hsitory of a
> car.. what are peoples thoughts of placing the ID's of a deceased Tiger on > a
> proper Tiger without ID? I guess int ehory the ultimate Tiger ID swap.
>
>
> -- > Regards
>
> Michael King
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From sganz at pacbell.net  Wed Jul 28 12:20:16 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 11:20:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
In-Reply-To: <OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>
References: <OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>
Message-ID: <667261.13590.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Looks like a good way to ruin a set of heads.

Sandy



----- Original Message ----
From: "Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com" <Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010 7:38:43 AM
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?

Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to what is being 
claimed here.
It is certainly an interesting theory...
http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm

Paul
_______________________________________________
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 28 12:21:26 2010
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 13:21:26 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Check_your_rivets?=
Message-ID: <20100728182023.0E87418764C@autox.team.net>

It's all hoops the morons make us jump through. Play the game.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "David T Johnson" <djoh797014 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, Jul 28, 2010 12:32
Subject: [Tigers] Check your rivets
To: "Jeffrey Nichols" <jxnichols at sbcglobal.net>, <tigers at autox.team.net>

I can't believe you guys let a state agency rull your lives.
Fire the idiots
at the ballot box and let them know.
Who does the BMV think they are, hassling
owners of\classic cars?

My Tiger was repainted 40 years ago after an
accident.  Yes the
ID plate was remove, but the JAL TAG was left alone.  IL
did
not care to even check the VIN.  The cop just checked that the
VIN matched
the title.  Gave IL some money and the Title is
in my name.  I noted to Norm
Miller that the ID had screws not
rivets.  It has been TAC'd without problems.
In 1970 one of the founders of the old Chicago Tiger club had his
car painted
a beautiful metallic siver and blacked out the chrome
The painter lost the
tags.  Then he moved to Texas.  There the
Supercops Police declared that
without VIN tags, they would
not title it in Texasand considered it stolen and
subject to
confication a stolen property.

What would you do?  He called on
the old Sunbeam group.  We
had junked a unrestorable Tiger (rus you would not
believe) and
I kept the VIN and ID TAGS. and matching IL Title. I also got the
 cross member with rack, steering extention, gauges, etc.  The hulk
is in a
bean field in Northern IL.  The MKIA  ID number was within
 100 of the Texas
Tiger.  A donation to the club got a new title, ID, 
and Tag for the Texas
Tiger.  A simple switch and now the Supercops
were convinced it was a legit
car BTW I reported the orginal Texas 
number to Norm as junked.  I don't think
many and tell the difference
in two Tigers that were made so closely apart.
Yes the Texas Tiger looks great and has been TAC'd.

Just last week, I was
watching a very upset man, angry because he
could not get a plate for his
homemade trailer he had been using
for years.  With a title IN considered is
stolen.  Outside I saw
him ranting and raving,  I told him 'Play the game. 
Get someone
like your brother give you a fake bill of sale, date it 3 weeka
ago,
and try again next week.  I saw him at Walmart and asked how
it went.  He
said no big deal.  The BMV took the bill of sale and
he had to pay sales tax
on $5.  He then was issued a trailer plate.

As I said.  Play the game.  If
they want a bill of same, make one,
and go somewhere else.  If they want pop
rivets,  get some
rivets and make trhem look used and then pop rivet you

From jd.sencindiver at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 12:34:26 2010
From: jd.sencindiver at gmail.com (Jim Sencindiver)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 14:34:26 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] august social md/va/de/pa
In-Reply-To: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
References: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikBgswocEOEwy85Jjz_2s4ATQ0tPVbJxVFnBrEP@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

Unfortunately, I already have plans for that day and will not be able to
attend.  Have fun and drive safe!

Keep on Tigering!
Jim Sencindiver

B382100451/TAC 448
http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp


On Tue, Jul 27, 2010 at 8:03 PM, Clyde McLaughlin <
clydemclaughlin at verizon.net> wrote:

> Hi Listers,  I have planned a social dinner for the evening of august 14th
> at
> the fleet researve club in annapolis at 100 compromise street,  annnapolis,
> md
> 21401....it's down town next to the Marriott Hotel and Pusser's Landing
> Bar,
> 7:00 pm is a good time,  food is good,  drinks are cheap, exellent
> location,
> rsvp to this e-mail,  thanks,  Clyde
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jd.sencindiver at gmail.com

From sganz at pacbell.net  Wed Jul 28 12:36:22 2010
From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 11:36:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
In-Reply-To: <4C506121.4090405@mayfco.com>
References: <mailman.34420.1280325754.914.tigers@autox.team.net>
	<OF56A4362B.784C2D30-ON8525776E.00504551-8525776E.00507312@sybase.com>
	<6EA1BD4F7AF342D78A4E45395154D30A@DellD4700>
	<4C506121.4090405@mayfco.com>
Message-ID: <224773.2270.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yeah, milling the heads and clear rebuilds will be the power gain and likely a
proper tune. BTW see if you find these groves on any Nascar motor... Anything
that has edges in the chambers is also bad, IMO. It's like the use of gapless
rings in the engine, some say they are worse then regular rings some say they
are not, but I have not seen anyone do A/B testing so it's not conclusive they
are any better. If Scientific repeatable testing is not done, it's all
speculation.

<sarcastic>

I do know that I can rebuild my motor by putting
these tablets in my gas tank 
and pouring this special solution in the oil and
my engine will rebuild while it 
drives

Cow magnets on my fuel line too, just
to be sure.

</sarcstic>

Lots of fun, but don't wreck a set of heads would be
my guess...

Sandy 


----- Original Message ----
From: drmayf
<drmayf at mayfco.com>
To: A. C. Tynes <v8tracker at gmail.com>
Cc:
Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com; tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, July 28, 2010
9:56:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] head grooves?

The other factor involved is
given less attention here. He milled the 
heads 0.060. That makes the squish
area physicaly thinner maybe more 
effective all by itself.  Increasing the
compresson ratio because of 
that also helps power output.  Now, it may be
that for sure he hit on 
something simple that does work. But, does it work
for all motors?  I 
too would like to see some additional data.  I would
actually like to 
hear the story of why he thought that would work in the
first place. Or 
some analyses showing that it would work.

I won't do it to
my aluminum heads on the race car though, lol.

mayf

A. C. Tynes wrote:
>Group,
>
>Like many things, it seems to make sense and sounds very good.
Perhaps, too
>good to be true.
>
>I would love to see some independent test
results. Since the "inventor" has
>gone to the trouble and expense of getting
a U. S. patent, I find it hard to
>believe that he has been unable to afford
to get properly controlled tests
>done anywhere in the world. There must be
thousands of dynos and labs that
>could and would do the work.
>
>The
anecdotal evidence also indicates that the "inventor" has done nothing
>to
stop anyone from trying out his idea. If the effect is as dramatic as is
>claimed, I can't believe that no major racer is using it. What racer would
>not try such a cheap way to gain horsepower? 
>
>What say you, Dr. Mayf? Do
you think Singh grooves would this put you well
>into the 200 mph club?
>
>A.
C. Tynes
>New Orleans
>
> 
>
>  
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:
tigers-bounces at autox.team.net 
>>[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of 
>>Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com
>>Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 9:39 AM
>>To: tigers at autox.team.net
>>Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
>>
>>Has anyone
else heard of this or think there's any truth to 
>>what is being claimed
here.
>>It is certainly an interesting theory...
>>http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm
>>
>>Paul
>>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate:
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From Carmods at aol.com  Wed Jul 28 13:17:26 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 15:17:26 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] head grooves?
Message-ID: <93521.6fc5770b.3981dc46@aol.com>

_Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com_ (mailto:Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com)   writes:
 
Has anyone else heard of this or think there's any truth to what is  being 
claimed here.
It is certainly an interesting  theory...
http://www.mgccars.com/groove_101.htm

Paul


I wonder if this is the same Somender  Singh  who has  $35 million waiting 
for me in  Punjab!  
 
John Logan

From lpaulick1 at verizon.net  Wed Jul 28 14:23:50 2010
From: lpaulick1 at verizon.net (Larry Paulick)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 16:23:50 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] august social md/va/de/pa
In-Reply-To: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
References: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
Message-ID: <4C5091D6.5040309@verizon.net>

Larry & Kim Paulick.

On 7/27/10 8:03 PM, Clyde McLaughlin wrote:
> Hi Listers,  I have planned a social dinner for the evening of august 14th at
> the fleet researve club in annapolis at 100 compromise street,  annnapolis, md
> 21401....it's down town next to the Marriott Hotel and Pusser's Landing Bar,
> 7:00 pm is a good time,  food is good,  drinks are cheap, exellent location,
> rsvp to this e-mail,  thanks,  Clyde
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/lpaulick1 at verizon.net

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Wed Jul 28 15:55:15 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 14:55:15 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Re (Tigers) 3 gauges stopped working
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikb8oQ+s_vdyU+1M1NPq4O3Fx1uLk1ZyhER3kcT@mail.gmail.com>
References: <26268.3a91703a.397269c1@aol.com>
	<DC0EB7EF800644E5A8955DEF8BF8E2B8@student2>
	<03DB6261-96C1-4C7A-92B3-EC960384CA89@att.net>
	<AANLkTikZ_ofPnyVeB3NLWjEpS8_LYzEgGtadjBfpK4Oa@mail.gmail.com>
	<E9412FD7-6BF4-4B03-B5FA-E1A38C0FBE22@att.net>
	<FD021032-6457-4CEC-9499-79B02DD743CA@att.net>
	<AANLkTinkbe8CnnBDvdkdvO=yS1kgEyokZQ=nfMww9+zL@mail.gmail.com>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD64A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<AANLkTikb8oQ+s_vdyU+1M1NPq4O3Fx1uLk1ZyhER3kcT@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C50A743.4060503@socal.rr.com>

Tom,

I checked with my chiropractor, and she said (after looking at the car 
in the parking lot) "That is very like the Medieval Torture Rack used to 
"persuade" the confessions to the crime charged.  No human being is ever 
meant to endure such pain". 

She recommend removing the seats, then getting my teen-aged son to get 
under.  Anyway, that's what I did.

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Tom Parker wrote:
> True. (I looked at the Mark 2 diagram). Grounding is simple to check, so's
> voltage. I suspect but don't know, that a short in the stabilizer would
> awaken the smoke gods or blow the fuse.
>
> Anyhow, schedule the Chiropractor and take a look. A jumper clipped to frame
> ground and the back mounting stud of a gauge verifies the grounding, a meter
> verifies the voltage stabilizer. There's always the possibility of multiple
> failures (In electronics it's much more common than one might think...), so
> take it one gauge at a time.
>
> God hunting, Allan!

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Wed Jul 28 17:03:13 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:03:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Prestige AutoWood Dash
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikDbzH7x1mqkB5HW0Pmo3+_NUSKW67o2=xWUmG9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C8762F71.40BB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

I agree wholeheartedly.  Randy makes a very nice dash indeed.  M


On 7/28/10 11:46 AM, "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941 at gmail.com> wrote:

> As part of the complete rebuild of my Mark 2 Tiger I ordered a new wood dash
> from Randy Keller at Prestige AutoWood. I think Randy supplies Rick at
> Sunbeam Specialties, but don't know if they're the "Elite" dashes he offers
> direct from his shop.
> 
> First observations: The dash is beautiful. The front is burled walnut
> veneer, the body is birch plywood, all the edges of the recesses on the back
> are rounded off (no sharp corners) and the front and back are finished to a
> mirror sheen. No loose laminations or splinters as on the original dash.
> Definitely a show quality dash. By far the best part of the old Kitty (She's
> had a hard life, was resurrected from the grave by my guru in New Hampshire
> and will never be a coucours car...)
> 
> So... if you're looking, consider Perstige AutoWood. There's a website built
> by a friend, but you'll have to call him direct to order.
> 
> www.*prestigeautowood*.com/
> 
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From jliny5 at cox.net  Wed Jul 28 17:31:40 2010
From: jliny5 at cox.net (James Lindner)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:31:40 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] august social md/va/de/pa
In-Reply-To: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
References: <006b01cb2de8$504c2060$0201a8c0@chesapeake4>
Message-ID: <A8CC7F3F604B4F6B80D086C97FC06655@JPC>

Hi, Jim Lindner here. I am new to the list and a brand new Tiger owner. I 
live in Alexandria, VA. Unfortunately, I can not make the event on the 14th, 
but I look forward to future gatherings.

Thx, Jim
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Clyde McLaughlin" <clydemclaughlin at verizon.net>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 8:03 PM
Subject: [Tigers] august social md/va/de/pa


> Hi Listers,  I have planned a social dinner for the evening of august 14th 
> at
> the fleet researve club in annapolis at 100 compromise street, 
> annnapolis, md
> 21401....it's down town next to the Marriott Hotel and Pusser's Landing 
> Bar,
> 7:00 pm is a good time,  food is good,  drinks are cheap, exellent 
> location,
> rsvp to this e-mail,  thanks,  Clyde
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jliny5 at cox.net

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Jul 28 17:32:25 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 19:32:25 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <247523.ae84a65.3981b0e9@aol.com>
References: <247523.ae84a65.3981b0e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <31D72DED-3743-4ACC-8099-EC05E44B76B0@att.net>

While doing a "test drive" tonight my Mk1a's 44 year old exhaust became
history :) .

Looking at the online catalogs for Classic Sunbeam and Sunbeam Specialties, I
see
that both offer a stainless system from header to tailpipe.

I suspect both are the same diameter as factory-- 1 3/4 inches (I think).

Does anyone have any info on these two systems?

Except for price, is their a difference?

Allan Ballard

From michael.s.king at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 19:45:27 2010
From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 11:45:27 +1000
Subject: [Tigers] TIGER ID PART 02
Message-ID: <AANLkTin2uag32s1RGq4zcJzZbrKPh7L1VxjFcW8sHW+9@mail.gmail.com>

Hello everyone,

The other day i posed a question for peoples opinions in regards to the
switching of VIN numbers between two Tigers. I had my disclaimer at the
start acknowledging that as far as i know no country would normally allow
this and it is illegal.

There was some good points made in the discussion and i recieved many
private emails on the subject.. so to bring the debate a little further
forward:

1. Dont worry everyone, I'm not thinking of doing this and don't happen to
have a spare Tiger shell sitting around.
2. There have been some good points re: what the context of the car is and
then the fact that both ARE Tigers.
3. My real concern in a scenario like this lies with the missing VIN.

The scenario was 1 basket case with ID and one car without ID but a true
Tiger.
1. Now in theory as long as the cars have no historical value (ex-works etc)
the value of this car is not being increased/decreased.
2. It is still a real Tiger, but the problem remains.. what was its ID and
more importantly where is it now, is it in use.. or will it be used.

Now if one can assertain the original ID of the "john doe" car then you
could either list with the regisrty that the numbers had been changed and 1
VIN could be listed as no longer valid. Seems like a good outcome, Car gets
an ID but its not correct.

If the ID can be sourced perhaps the TAC guys can inspect and the car can be
re-issued with its original VIN.. only issue here might be, will local
authorities accept this?

The catch here is.. where is the original ID? If its still in use you have 2
cars with the same VIN (as what happened per my reference in the original
post: http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/tac/alert.htm )

This is bad.. and the question is.. is the car with the wrong ID a real
Tiger or not.. If the ID is not in use.. but still exists then the potential
for it to be "reborn" exists.

Lastly, i guess is the correspondence i have recieved privately from many
guys (which i guess shows this is a touchy subject) this is both a
moral/ethical issues as well as basic VIN/registration issue...   I guess if
one was suspecting this was about to happen do they:

A. Discuss it with the person and talk them throgh the pros and cons?
B. Just ignore the issue and know that everytime they see that car that its
not the true identity.
C. Let sleeping dogs lie.. not my cars not my problem?
D. What happens if i ever saw a car with what i know was one of the VINs in
question, do i inform that owner?

 --
Regards

Michael King

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Wed Jul 28 20:39:27 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:39:27 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <31D72DED-3743-4ACC-8099-EC05E44B76B0@att.net>
Message-ID: <9E5419419B4A4C03B7CD47893C36DB3A@ronpc1>

Allan
	SS exhaust system states it is a 1 3/4" system.   I would guess that
Classic Sunbeam also has a 1 3/4" system but you can verify that by
contacting them directly.

I had a 2" system made for my Tiger by a shop that was also fixing a few
other problems I had with the Tiger.   They could get the stainless pipe for
a good price and the cost of the whole system installed was reasonable.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:32 PM
To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system


While doing a "test drive" tonight my Mk1a's 44 year old exhaust became
history :) .

Looking at the online catalogs for Classic Sunbeam and Sunbeam Specialties,
I see that both offer a stainless system from header to tailpipe.

I suspect both are the same diameter as factory-- 1 3/4 inches (I think).

Does anyone have any info on these two systems?

Except for price, is their a difference?

Allan Ballard
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3029 - Release Date: 07/28/10
08:37:00

From allanballard at att.net  Wed Jul 28 22:37:50 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 00:37:50 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <9E5419419B4A4C03B7CD47893C36DB3A@ronpc1>
References: <9E5419419B4A4C03B7CD47893C36DB3A@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <B24C3598-662E-4259-8BEC-68671B28A173@att.net>

Ron,

Thanks.

Did the 2" pipe fit through the X member?

Allan

On Jul 28, 2010, at 10:39 PM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Allan
> 	SS exhaust system states it is a 1 3/4" system.   I would guess that
> Classic Sunbeam also has a 1 3/4" system but you can verify that by
> contacting them directly.
>
> I had a 2" system made for my Tiger by a shop that was also fixing a few
> other problems I had with the Tiger.   They could get the stainless pipe
for
> a good price and the cost of the whole system installed was reasonable.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:32 PM
> To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
> Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
>
>
> While doing a "test drive" tonight my Mk1a's 44 year old exhaust became
> history :) .
>
> Looking at the online catalogs for Classic Sunbeam and Sunbeam Specialties,
> I see that both offer a stainless system from header to tailpipe.
>
> I suspect both are the same diameter as factory-- 1 3/4 inches (I think).
>
> Does anyone have any info on these two systems?
>
> Except for price, is their a difference?
>
> Allan Ballard
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3029 - Release Date: 07/28/10
> 08:37:00

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 29 09:37:27 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 08:37:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] S1 on Bring a Trailer
Message-ID: <2906.79287.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I receive a daily email from "Bring a Trailer". A while back there was a Tiger
but I fogot to post it to the List. This isnt quite the norm but I thought
someone might know the car. I posted it to the Alpine List as well since it is
an Alpine. Just click on the http- it worked for me.
Cheers,
TonytheTiger
 
http://us.mc304.mail.yahoo.com/mc/welcome?.gx=1&.tm=1280379063&.rand=422nlve7
9kn5j#_pg=showMessage&sMid=3&&filterBy=&.rand=1404825353&midIndex=3&mid=1_230
84139_AGjIjkQAAIi3TFF3BQVBzlPyJIM&fromId=mail at bringatrailer.com&m=1_23085721_
AGvIjkQAALCMTFGHTApknyYhECs,1_23084915_AGrIjkQAALitTFF%2FeQQTJFEXhxI,1_230832
82_AGrIjkQAAXd7TFFz6wJHq2PSJhs,1_23084139_AGjIjkQAAIi3TFF3BQVBzlPyJIM,1_23082
627_AGvIjkQAACbdTFFaAAEGBm%2FSc3Q,1_23081506_AG7IjkQAAAL1TFEbMQPh%2FW9A87s,1_
23077866_AGrIjkQAAX%2BATFDj3gwR9Gss2Iw,1_23076746_AGzIjkQAAVpZTFDVdgooGz0T1x8
,1_23073890_AG3IjkQAAW3fTFCUtQgHLTqvXtQ,&sort=date&order=down&startMid=0&hash
=8e74cdbfea9ea50ccd6289b625a8f49d&.jsrand=7157456

From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Thu Jul 29 10:00:59 2010
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Clarkwgriswold)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 11:00:59 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] S1 on Bring a Trailer
In-Reply-To: <2906.79287.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <2906.79287.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FF875812-56A3-4725-AF43-D5023C9D73E6@gmail.com>

The car belongs to our own Andy walker. He didn't post the BaT listing.
Someone else did. Funny, I sent that to him this morning and he was a bit
surprised.... Lol. Now everyone knows!!!!

Cullen
1452 LROFE

Sent from my mobile...

On Jul 29, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Tony Somebody <achd73 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I receive a daily email from "Bring a Trailer". A while back there was a
Tiger
> but I fogot to post it to the List. This isnt quite the norm but I thought
> someone might know the car. I posted it to the Alpine List as well since it
is
> an Alpine. Just click on the http- it worked for me.
> Cheers,
> TonytheTiger

From allanballard at att.net  Thu Jul 29 10:27:14 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:27:14 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <9E5419419B4A4C03B7CD47893C36DB3A@ronpc1>
References: <9E5419419B4A4C03B7CD47893C36DB3A@ronpc1>
Message-ID: <2A662FD8-C54B-4A53-B1C0-5FD0E235AE1A@att.net>

I checked a local shop and they are able and willing for  reasonable price to
make a 2" exhaust from factory header back.

Still trying to determine what blew out yesterday and now fear that a head
gasket blew.

A sound like the sound produced by a hole in an old muffler comes from the
vicinity of the right side head but
I haven't gotten under the car yet; might be that side's down-pipe....

Allan Ballard
Atlanta, GA



On Jul 28, 2010, at 10:39 PM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Allan
> 	SS exhaust system states it is a 1 3/4" system.   I would guess that
> Classic Sunbeam also has a 1 3/4" system but you can verify that by
> contacting them directly.
>
> I had a 2" system made for my Tiger by a shop that was also fixing a few
> other problems I had with the Tiger.   They could get the stainless pipe
for
> a good price and the cost of the whole system installed was reasonable.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:32 PM
> To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
> Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
>
>
> While doing a "test drive" tonight my Mk1a's 44 year old exhaust became
> history :) .
>
> Looking at the online catalogs for Classic Sunbeam and Sunbeam Specialties,
> I see that both offer a stainless system from header to tailpipe.
>
> I suspect both are the same diameter as factory-- 1 3/4 inches (I think).
>
> Does anyone have any info on these two systems?
>
> Except for price, is their a difference?
>
> Allan Ballard
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3029 - Release Date: 07/28/10
> 08:37:00

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Thu Jul 29 10:34:10 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 11:34:10 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <2A662FD8-C54B-4A53-B1C0-5FD0E235AE1A@att.net>
References: <9E5419419B4A4C03B7CD47893C36DB3A@ronpc1>
	<2A662FD8-C54B-4A53-B1C0-5FD0E235AE1A@att.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD900@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

The shop will have to flatten the 2" pipes somewhat where they pass through
the frame, but it can be done with no rattles. If they claim that they can't
do it without cutting out the frame passthroughs or that they have to pass the
pipes underneath, go somewhere else.

Head gasket symptoms are white smoke out the exhaust, and/or water in the oil,
or vice versa. The car will also run poorly.

Your noise sounds like you probably just took out the exhaust manifold flange
gasket.

Cheers,
Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent: July 29, 2010 10:27 AM
> To: rfraser at bluefrog.com
> Cc: 'Tiger Talk List Tiger'
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust system
>
> I checked a local shop and they are able and willing for  reasonable
> price to
> make a 2" exhaust from factory header back.
>
> Still trying to determine what blew out yesterday and now fear that a
> head
> gasket blew.
>
> A sound like the sound produced by a hole in an old muffler comes from
> the
> vicinity of the right side head but
> I haven't gotten under the car yet; might be that side's down-pipe....
>
> Allan Ballard
> Atlanta, GA
>
>


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From denismercier at telvic.net  Thu Jul 29 11:25:36 2010
From: denismercier at telvic.net (denis mercier)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 13:25:36 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Need help
Message-ID: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>

Hi listers.
I use my Tiger with 205/60/13, traction is good but suspension stiff, i would
like to have a smoother ride, if 185/70/13 Michelin are better ?
             Thanks !
             Denis.
             B382000926LRXFE

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Thu Jul 29 11:53:30 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:53:30 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] ***SPAM***  Need help
In-Reply-To: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

The sidewall height of the 185-70's is going to be (theoretically) about 5%
more than the 205-60's. So that will get you a little more compliance. The
bigger difference, if any, will come from differences in the tire
construction. Are the 205's you have performance oriented? If so, then going
to a street-type tire will help.

I found a large difference in ride quality from removing the traction masters
and going to Dan Walters' torque arm; and from changing the front swaybar to
have proper bearing blocks and attaching them to the control arm only at the
outboard ends. The stock suspension flexes the swaybar even on normal bump and
rebound, and that and the friction in the OEM swaybar mounts makes the front
suspension harsh.

I'm also running 205/45-16 tires, and 450 pound per inch front springs. CAT
springs and Koni's in the rear.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of denis mercier
> Sent: July 29, 2010 11:26 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help
>
> Hi listers.
> I use my Tiger with 205/60/13, traction is good but suspension stiff, i
> would
> like to have a smoother ride, if 185/70/13 Michelin are better ?
>              Thanks !
>              Denis.
>              B382000926LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 29 13:04:23 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:04:23 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] ***SPAM*** Need help
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=F3+WDdaXn1J8dpdNoNU5=PCMGB5xZPuq0KVwn@mail.gmail.com>

Theo,

You read my mind! Which sway bar did you use, and where did you fasten it ?
(I'm considering finding a bar I can fasten to the frame rails and the lower
A arms close to the ball joints as in most other cars I've seen.)

Tom

On Thu, Jul 29, 2010 at 1:53 PM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>wrote:

> The sidewall height of the 185-70's is going to be (theoretically) about 5%
> more than the 205-60's. So that will get you a little more compliance. The
> bigger difference, if any, will come from differences in the tire
> construction. Are the 205's you have performance oriented? If so, then
> going
> to a street-type tire will help.
>
> I found a large difference in ride quality from removing the traction
> masters
> and going to Dan Walters' torque arm; and from changing the front swaybar
> to
> have proper bearing blocks and attaching them to the control arm only at
> the
> outboard ends. The stock suspension flexes the swaybar even on normal bump
> and
> rebound, and that and the friction in the OEM swaybar mounts makes the
> front
> suspension harsh.
>
> I'm also running 205/45-16 tires, and 450 pound per inch front springs. CAT
> springs and Koni's in the rear.
>
> Theo
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of denis mercier
> > Sent: July 29, 2010 11:26 AM
> > To: tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help
> >
> > Hi listers.
> > I use my Tiger with 205/60/13, traction is good but suspension stiff, i
> > would
> > like to have a smoother ride, if 185/70/13 Michelin are better ?
> >              Thanks !
> >              Denis.
> >              B382000926LRXFE
> > _______________________________________________
> > Tigers at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
> sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
> or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net  Thu Jul 29 13:09:58 2010
From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo))
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 14:09:58 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Need help
In-Reply-To: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
Message-ID: <8764AA3A843D4EBEBD59215E5F4FF12E@jerry>

One thing I noticed when I changed from 205/60/13 to 185/70/13 (in the
front) was the big difference in the amount of effort in steering, like when
backing up then driving off.  Very noticeable.

Jerry Christopherson
9473187 

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of denis mercier
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 12:26 PM
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Need help

Hi listers.
I use my Tiger with 205/60/13, traction is good but suspension stiff, i
would
like to have a smoother ride, if 185/70/13 Michelin are better ?
             Thanks !
             Denis.
             B382000926LRXFE
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net

From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 29 13:23:29 2010
From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:23:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] VIN yard
Message-ID: <305816.40369.qm@web81502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

"Now if one can assertain the original ID of the "john doe" car then you
could either list with the regisrty that the numbers had been changed and 1
VIN could be listed as no longer valid. Seems like a good outcome, Car gets
an ID but its not correct."
 
There doesn't seem to be VIN number stamping on the car frame or body parts to
match the Rootes VIN from what I've seen, if that is what you are asking
about.  Some cars have VIN stampings on various body parts or chassis and you
can tie the VIN with the car itself. In theory, you can trade VIN plates all
you want until the DMV comes knocking.   Although you may have a problem
swapping a VIN plate from a MK1 to a MK1a or MK2 and  vice versa.
 
                                        Jeff

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Thu Jul 29 13:36:35 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:36:35 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] Need help
In-Reply-To: <8764AA3A843D4EBEBD59215E5F4FF12E@jerry>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
	<8764AA3A843D4EBEBD59215E5F4FF12E@jerry>
Message-ID: <4C51D843.7000608@socal.rr.com>

Here is a picture of Jerry & Maureen VanderPool's car.  A real beauty.


http://tigersunited.com/car_show/vanderpool_j/default.asp

and Tires:

http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-wheel.asp

A real beauty!

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote:
> One thing I noticed when I changed from 205/60/13 to 185/70/13 (in the
> front) was the big difference in the amount of effort in steering, like when
> backing up then driving off.  Very noticeable.
>
> Jerry Christopherson
> 9473187 

From slaifman at socal.rr.com  Thu Jul 29 13:56:32 2010
From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 12:56:32 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] VIN yard
In-Reply-To: <305816.40369.qm@web81502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <305816.40369.qm@web81502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4C51DCF0.2050802@socal.rr.com>

Jeff (and Michael)

As I pointed out, in a previous post, Removing and Replacing a VIN, in 
California, is legal - with certain prerequisites.

    * The car must already be registered in the state
    * Highway Patrol permission must be given before the work is done.
    * The VIN is the original VIN for that vehicle.
    * A licensed and authorized Body Shop must make the application.

How do I know this to be true?  I've done it a couple of times to get 
good under-hood paint repairs/refurbishment that required it, over many 
years.

Some other States do not regulate this, and some disallow it completely.

Check out your local laws.

Oh, yes.  If you are doing this to a Tiger, the rivets holding the VIN 
plate to the dash are very unique, and noticeable to a observant owner.

Steve

Steve Laifman

Editor

http://TigersUnited.com



Jeffrey Nichols wrote:
> "Now if one can assertain the original ID of the "john doe" car then you
> could either list with the regisrty that the numbers had been changed and 1
> VIN could be listed as no longer valid. Seems like a good outcome, Car gets
> an ID but its not correct."
>  
> There doesn't seem to be VIN number stamping on the car frame or body parts to
> match the Rootes VIN from what I've seen, if that is what you are asking
> about.  Some cars have VIN stampings on various body parts or chassis and you
> can tie the VIN with the car itself. In theory, you can trade VIN plates all
> you want until the DMV comes knocking.   Although you may have a problem
> swapping a VIN plate from a MK1 to a MK1a or MK2 and  vice versa.
>  
>                                         Jeff

From CoolVT at aol.com  Thu Jul 29 16:29:04 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 18:29:04 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] VIN yard
Message-ID: <32e47.2d66c224.39835ab0@aol.com>

In Vermont any car coming in from another state has to  have the vin 
checked by a "law enforcement official".  There is a state  verification form to 
be signed.  Someone can go to a "one-horse-town" (in  Vermont meaning a very 
small town) and get either a deputy sheriff or constable  to check the vin 
and sign the form.  I can guarantee that these  part time officials have 
never had any training on rivets;-)  If the rivets  were all chewed up or the 
screws had what looked like recent gouges in them  it might be a red flag, but 
otherwise it will get  signed.
 
Seems there is a  price to pay for living in  a progressive, politically 
correct and left leaning state like some of you  inhabit;-)
Mark 

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Thu Jul 29 16:42:11 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:42:11 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] VIN yard
References: <32e47.2d66c224.39835ab0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6C8C36006B3E41B6B6AC7BA58A27F038@student2>

Back when I arrived in California (1967) "left leaning" referred to the fact 
that we were suppose to fall off into the Pacific ocean!   In those days it 
was global crumbling, not warming they were concern about. How times have 
changed.   :-)
Tom

> Seems there is a  price to pay for living in  a progressive, politically
> correct and left leaning state like some of you  inhabit;-)
> Mark

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 29 16:52:41 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:52:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] S1 on Bring a Trailer
In-Reply-To: <FF875812-56A3-4725-AF43-D5023C9D73E6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <122177.42886.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, I hope it helps Andy to sell his car. It is sharp and I imangine runs well and handles even better.
TtT

From djoh797014 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 29 21:59:57 2010
From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson)
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 20:59:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] VIN yard
In-Reply-To: <6C8C36006B3E41B6B6AC7BA58A27F038@student2>
References: <32e47.2d66c224.39835ab0@aol.com>
	<6C8C36006B3E41B6B6AC7BA58A27F038@student2>
Message-ID: <72002.59925.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

There are work arounds for the BMV in most states.  The
biggest problem we
have the Homeland Security Gestapo.
Last air show I was at, the rumor was that
Homeland Security
was going to require the same security check for all
passengers
on the For Tri Motor as on any other passenger aircraft
seating 12
people.

Don't even think about the hassles the Conf Air Force is
getting
about the B25 and wonderful B17 they fly. You can
imagine the thought process
of the Homeland security idiots
about trying to protect us from these flying
museums. Thesee
planes are really bombers.  What if the CAF was going to
bomb DC and restart the Civil War?

I can remember when America was free and
unregulated.

Dave  rapidly becoming a cynic.


 
________________________________
From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
To: tigers at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 29, 2010 6:42:11 PM
Subject: Re:
[Tigers] VIN yard

Back when I arrived in California (1967) "left leaning"
referred to the fact 
that we were suppose to fall off into the Pacific
ocean!  In those days it was 
global crumbling, not warming they were concern
about. How times have changed.  
:-)
Tom

> Seems there is a  price to pay for
living in  a progressive, politically
> correct and left leaning state like
some of you  inhabit;-)
> Mark
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 05:38:56 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:38:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <72002.59925.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C8783210.40FB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

OK, so I finally finished up the installation of the 289 engine and wide
ratio transmission into my MK1A.  This was a lot more trouble than I
imagined, to be honest.  People warned me how complicated the installation
of a Porsche engine would be, but I did that in no time and with no problems
at all when compared to shoehorning a SBF into a Sunbeam engine bay.  This,
on the other hand, was hell.  They really should give some kind of a medal
of honor to Carroll Shelby for never giving up and getting this done
initially! I chipped up my hands and arms to the point that it looked like I
must have been the survivor of a train wreck. Not only that, but just about
every technical hiccup or hold-up that could have happened, happened along
the way.  For example, reinstalling the crossmember was such a hassle that I
would probably never drop the engine from the bottom again. I still have
nightmares about that!  How frustrating it was.  Anyway, I am really happy
that it's in and finally over!

So, with it all finally in and ready to go, the fresh engine fired up
immediately and ran its first 20 minutes with no problem.  It sounds amazing
when compared to the 260.  I had said before that the stainless exhaust sold
by Sunbeam Specialties did not scratch my itch, but I may take that back.
On the 289, it sounds very nice indeed.  Of course, the story does not end
here. The clutch pedal feels really good with the new diaphragm clutch
suggested by Doug Jennings.  A huge improvement over the three-finger
design, IMHO.  H

HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running.  I can only get
it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the gears clash.
This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think the
issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch fork
far enough to disengage.  Keep in mind that the slave is the same one used
on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork (lever)
are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been adjusted
in any way.  I have not had time to get under the car again to check now,
but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end of
the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.  So
the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can or
should make?  If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?

Thanks very much in advance for any and all advice!!!

M

From rjw at wengco.com  Fri Jul 30 05:44:56 2010
From: rjw at wengco.com (Robert J. Wanty)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:44:56 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up
Message-ID: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0F82FE@weco1.wengco.com>

I rebuilt the brakes, master cylinder and booster,  put about 5000 miles
on them with no problems. Now the left front is not releasing completely
so cleaned the contact points of the pad and nothing changed. I switched
the front pads and now both are not releasing completely. Thinking that
the booster was keeping pressure on the system I opened the bleeder to
release the pressure and there was no change; Any Ideas?





Bob

B382001318

From TMorton at bma1915.com  Fri Jul 30 05:53:30 2010
From: TMorton at bma1915.com (Terry Morton)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:53:30 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up
In-Reply-To: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0F82FE@weco1.wengco.com>
References: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0F82FE@weco1.wengco.com>
Message-ID: <3CB8B4340F95574EB94BC8370752ADA0011ECA48@bmadata1.bmi1915.priv>

Bob,
Did you replace the brake hoses at the calipers when you did your
rebuild? I've had deteriorated hoses keep the fluid from returning to
the master cylinder properly. Just a thought.
Terry.

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert J. Wanty
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 7:45 AM
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up

I rebuilt the brakes, master cylinder and booster,  put about 5000 miles
on them with no problems. Now the left front is not releasing completely
so cleaned the contact points of the pad and nothing changed. I switched
the front pads and now both are not releasing completely. Thinking that
the booster was keeping pressure on the system I opened the bleeder to
release the pressure and there was no change; Any Ideas?





Bob

B382001318
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
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From RSSmithIQ at cs.com  Fri Jul 30 06:04:37 2010
From: RSSmithIQ at cs.com (Randy Smith)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:04:37 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up
In-Reply-To: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0F82FE@weco1.wengco.com>
References: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0F82FE@weco1.wengco.com>
Message-ID: <4C52BFD5.4010402@cs.com>

  Since it's just one side, it sounds like a caliper sticking or an old 
hose which is collapsed inside and working like a one-way valve.  I 
would recommend replacing all three hoses in the system if you haven't 
already.  If that's not it, then rebuild the caliper.

-Randy

On 7/30/2010 7:44 AM, Robert J. Wanty wrote:
> I rebuilt the brakes, master cylinder and booster,  put about 5000 miles
> on them with no problems. Now the left front is not releasing completely
> so cleaned the contact points of the pad and nothing changed. I switched
> the front pads and now both are not releasing completely. Thinking that
> the booster was keeping pressure on the system I opened the bleeder to
> release the pressure and there was no change; Any Ideas?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> B382001318
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rssmithiq at cs.com
>
>

-- 

Randy Smith
INNER QUEST, Inc.
34752 Charles Town Pike
Purcellville, VA  20132
703-478-1078
540-668-6699
540-668-6253 fax

InnerQuestOnline.com <http://www.innerquestonline.com/>
RSSmithIQ at cs.com
Tiger- B382000189

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 07:12:41 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:12:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up
Message-ID: <1463854237.1051619.1280495562024.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>

I agree.  It sounds to me like a flexible brake hose that is swollen inside to the point that it allows the pressurized brake fluid to pass to the caliper, but is tight enough inside that the unpressurized return flow can't  make it back to allow the caliper to release.  I had this very problem on my old 911.  It's an easy,. cheap fix.  Even if it turns out to be a corroded caliper piston, the cost of the hoses is minimal -- and it's a good idea to keep those parts as fresh as possible.  M

Jul 30, 2010 07:15:42 AM, RSSmithIQ at cs.com wrote:

  Since it's just one side, it sounds like a caliper sticking or an old 
hose which is collapsed inside and working like a one-way valve.  I 
would recommend replacing all three hoses in the system if you haven't 
already.  If that's not it, then rebuild the caliper.

-Randy

On 7/30/2010 7:44 AM, Robert J. Wanty wrote:
> I rebuilt the brakes, master cylinder and booster,  put about 5000 miles
> on them with no problems. Now the left front is not releasing completely
> so cleaned the contact points of the pad and nothing changed. I switched
> the front pads and now both are not releasing completely. Thinking that
> the booster was keeping pressure on the system I opened the bleeder to
> release the pressure and there was no change; Any Ideas?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> B382001318
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rssmithiq at cs.com
>
>

-- 

Randy Smith
INNER QUEST, Inc.
34752 Charles Town Pike
Purcellville, VA  20132
703-478-1078
540-668-6699
540-668-6253 fax

InnerQuestOnline.com 
RSSmithIQ at cs.com
Tiger- B382000189
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Jul 30 08:00:02 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:00:02 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up
In-Reply-To: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0F82FE@weco1.wengco.com>
Message-ID: <BB417F69F2E9493D823DB03F1ADCFD8D@ronpc1>

Bob
	You state that you switched front pads and now both are not
releasing.   I believe you are stating that you swapped pads from Left to
Right side.(?)

	This sounds like the brake pad itself is not sliding in the caliper.
The metal backing plate needs to have clearance to move within the caliper.
Check the backing plates;  you may need to grind the metal edges on the pads
down some to gain clearance for the them to move freely.   The pads should
easily slide into position on the caliper; if you have to force them at all
they are too tight and will not move freely.

	If the pads are moving freely and you still have this problem; then
the pad material might be too thick and there is no room for the caliper to
move.   Make sure with the caliper pistons pushed in all the way that there
is a gap between the pads and the rotor.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Robert J. Wanty
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 7:45 AM
To: Tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up


I rebuilt the brakes, master cylinder and booster,  put about 5000 miles on
them with no problems. Now the left front is not releasing completely so
cleaned the contact points of the pad and nothing changed. I switched the
front pads and now both are not releasing completely. Thinking that the
booster was keeping pressure on the system I opened the bleeder to release
the pressure and there was no change; Any Ideas?





Bob

B382001318
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From sigmaengr at carolina.rr.com  Fri Jul 30 08:13:13 2010
From: sigmaengr at carolina.rr.com (Sigma Engineering)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:13:13 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] VIN yard
References: <32e47.2d66c224.39835ab0@aol.com><6C8C36006B3E41B6B6AC7BA58A27F038@student2>
	<72002.59925.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <54CA45B0F706488D90FA122F6EB85868@D32K5JC1>

And this all happened during our right leaning administration...oh the 
irony.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David T Johnson" <djoh797014 at yahoo.com>
To: "Thomas Witt" <atwittsend at verizon.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] VIN yard


> There are work arounds for the BMV in most states.  The
> biggest problem we
> have the Homeland Security Gestapo.
> Last air show I was at, the rumor was that
> Homeland Security
> was going to require the same security check for all
> passengers
> on the For Tri Motor as on any other passenger aircraft
> seating 12
> people.
>
> Don't even think about the hassles the Conf Air Force is
> getting
> about the B25 and wonderful B17 they fly. You can
> imagine the thought process
> of the Homeland security idiots
> about trying to protect us from these flying
> museums. Thesee
> planes are really bombers.  What if the CAF was going to
> bomb DC and restart the Civil War?
>
> I can remember when America was free and
> unregulated.
>
> Dave  rapidly becoming a cynic.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Thomas Witt <atwittsend at verizon.net>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thu, July 29, 2010 6:42:11 PM
> Subject: Re:
> [Tigers] VIN yard
>
> Back when I arrived in California (1967) "left leaning"
> referred to the fact
> that we were suppose to fall off into the Pacific
> ocean!  In those days it was
> global crumbling, not warming they were concern
> about. How times have changed.
> :-)
> Tom
>
>> Seems there is a  price to pay for
> living in  a progressive, politically
>> correct and left leaning state like
> some of you  inhabit;-)
>> Mark
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
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> http://www.team.net/archive
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> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sigmaengr at carolina.rr.com

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Jul 30 08:21:34 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:21:34 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <C8783210.40FB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <72002.59925.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<C8783210.40FB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADAA8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

If you had 3/4 inch of play between the pushrod end and the release lever when
the slave cylinder's piston is pushed all the way into its bore, then you
should get a longer pushrod. For the purpose of testing, you can easily make
one from a 3/8" or larger diameter bolt - just cut it to length and grind the
ends roughly spherical. The hydraulic setup will self-adjust within a
reasonably large limit so you don't need to have the length of the rod exactly
right, but if the rod is way too short then you run the risk of popping the
piston out of the slave cylinder bore when you press the pedal to the floor.
You have bled the master cylinder at the pipe connection, right?

If the clutch release lever is getting full travel and the transmission still
doesn't shift properly, then there is something wrong with the way that the
clutch assembly is put together. The clutch disc could be bent, the disc might
be incompatible with the diaphragm clutch (too thick or too much marcel
squish) or something strange with the release bearing.

Engine removal and replacement goes much faster the second time. ;)

Good luck,
Theo

> HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running.  I can only
> get
> it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the gears
> clash.
> This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
> Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think
> the
> issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch
> fork
> far enough to disengage.  Keep in mind that the slave is the same one
> used
> on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork
> (lever)
> are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been
> adjusted
> in any way.  I have not had time to get under the car again to check
> now,
> but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end
> of
> the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.
> So
> the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can
> or
> should make?  If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
> pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?
>


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From Carmods at aol.com  Fri Jul 30 08:21:45 2010
From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:21:45 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] Brake hang-up
Message-ID: <146e4.65dd63da.398439f9@aol.com>

Bob,
 
I've heard Tiger owners complain about getting new master cylinders  with 
the actuating rod being too long and not allowing the fluid to return  to the 
reservoir.  
 
John Logan

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 30 08:48:34 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:48:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADAA8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <123149.42311.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I just read Theos post but it sounds to me that you put the clutch plate in
backwards. Its marked FLYWHEEL SIDE but it is easy to get turned around. It
wont engage completely, thus the clutch linkage travel wont bottom out and it
wont allow you to shift gears with the engine running. As Theo said, RandR is
much faster the second time.
TtT

--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com> wrote:


From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
To: "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous at verizon.net>, "tigers at autox.team.net"
<tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 9:21 AM


If you had 3/4 inch of play between the pushrod end and the release lever
when
the slave cylinder's piston is pushed all the way into its bore, then you
should get a longer pushrod. For the purpose of testing, you can easily make
one from a 3/8" or larger diameter bolt - just cut it to length and grind the
ends roughly spherical. The hydraulic setup will self-adjust within a
reasonably large limit so you don't need to have the length of the rod
exactly
right, but if the rod is way too short then you run the risk of popping the
piston out of the slave cylinder bore when you press the pedal to the floor.
You have bled the master cylinder at the pipe connection, right?

If the clutch release lever is getting full travel and the transmission still
doesn't shift properly, then there is something wrong with the way that the
clutch assembly is put together. The clutch disc could be bent, the disc
might
be incompatible with the diaphragm clutch (too thick or too much marcel
squish) or something strange with the release bearing.

Engine removal and replacement goes much faster the second time. ;)

Good luck,
Theo

> HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running.  I can only
> get
> it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the gears
> clash.
> This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
> Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think
> the
> issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch
> fork
> far enough to disengage.  Keep in mind that the slave is the same one
> used
> on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork
> (lever)
> are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been
> adjusted
> in any way.  I have not had time to get under the car again to check
> now,
> but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end
> of
> the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.
> So
> the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can
> or
> should make?  If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
> pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?
>


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any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.
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From allanballard at att.net  Fri Jul 30 08:49:04 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 10:49:04 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADAA8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <72002.59925.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<C8783210.40FB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADAA8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <C4D832C2-BA33-4206-B69D-58F28F09F121@att.net>

Maybe the slave is mounted on the wrong side of the bell-housing.


On Jul 30, 2010, at 10:21 AM, Smit, Theo wrote:

> If you had 3/4 inch of play between the pushrod end and the release lever
when
> the slave cylinder's piston is pushed all the way into its bore, then you
> should get a longer pushrod. For the purpose of testing, you can easily
make
> one from a 3/8" or larger diameter bolt - just cut it to length and grind
the
> ends roughly spherical. The hydraulic setup will self-adjust within a
> reasonably large limit so you don't need to have the length of the rod
exactly
> right, but if the rod is way too short then you run the risk of popping the
> piston out of the slave cylinder bore when you press the pedal to the
floor.
> You have bled the master cylinder at the pipe connection, right?
>
> If the clutch release lever is getting full travel and the transmission
still
> doesn't shift properly, then there is something wrong with the way that the
> clutch assembly is put together. The clutch disc could be bent, the disc
might
> be incompatible with the diaphragm clutch (too thick or too much marcel
> squish) or something strange with the release bearing.
>
> Engine removal and replacement goes much faster the second time. ;)
>
> Good luck,
> Theo
>
>> HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running.  I can only
>> get
>> it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the gears
>> clash.
>> This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
>> Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think
>> the
>> issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch
>> fork
>> far enough to disengage.  Keep in mind that the slave is the same one
>> used
>> on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork
>> (lever)
>> are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been
>> adjusted
>> in any way.  I have not had time to get under the car again to check
>> now,
>> but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end
>> of
>> the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.
>> So
>> the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can
>> or
>> should make?  If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
>> pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?
>>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
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> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From wwwdg at webtv.net  Fri Jul 30 08:50:26 2010
From: wwwdg at webtv.net (David or Gary)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:50:26 GMT
Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
Message-ID: <BAY148-ds10CFF8F3C15571DE8DE6BAADAA0@phx.gbl>

You might also have a loose spark plug, or exhaust manifold bolt to the
head. Get a small dia. rubber hose (like distributor vacuum line) Put
one end into your ear and use the other end to listen where you think it
is leaking. 
David Franchi

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 09:15:51 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 08:15:51 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
References: <C8783210.40FB%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <891CDB4F305149698B52CC6F154611A0@student2>

>>>They really should give some kind of a medal of honor to Carroll Shelby 
>>>for never giving up and getting this done initially!<<<

Actually the medal of honor should got to George Boskoff.  He did all the 
work, - Shelby collected the cash.

 Glad to hear you got it done, enjoy.
Tom 

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 30 10:16:08 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:16:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <C4D832C2-BA33-4206-B69D-58F28F09F121@att.net>
Message-ID: <199896.12812.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Exxcellent point.
TtT

--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net> wrote:


From: Allan Ballard <allanballard at att.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" <tigers at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 9:49 AM


Maybe the slave is mounted on the wrong side of the bell-housing.


On Jul 30, 2010, at 10:21 AM, Smit, Theo wrote:

> If you had 3/4 inch of play between the pushrod end and the release lever
when
> the slave cylinder's piston is pushed all the way into its bore, then you
> should get a longer pushrod. For the purpose of testing, you can easily
make
> one from a 3/8" or larger diameter bolt - just cut it to length and grind
the
> ends roughly spherical. The hydraulic setup will self-adjust within a
> reasonably large limit so you don't need to have the length of the rod
exactly
> right, but if the rod is way too short then you run the risk of popping the
> piston out of the slave cylinder bore when you press the pedal to the
floor.
> You have bled the master cylinder at the pipe connection, right?
>
> If the clutch release lever is getting full travel and the transmission
still
> doesn't shift properly, then there is something wrong with the way that the
> clutch assembly is put together. The clutch disc could be bent, the disc
might
> be incompatible with the diaphragm clutch (too thick or too much marcel
> squish) or something strange with the release bearing.
>
> Engine removal and replacement goes much faster the second time. ;)
>
> Good luck,
> Theo
>
>> HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running.  I can only
>> get
>> it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the gears
>> clash.
>> This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
>> Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think
>> the
>> issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch
>> fork
>> far enough to disengage.  Keep in mind that the slave is the same one
>> used
>> on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork
>> (lever)
>> are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been
>> adjusted
>> in any way.  I have not had time to get under the car again to check
>> now,
>> but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end
>> of
>> the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.
>> So
>> the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can
>> or
>> should make?  If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
>> pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?
>>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 10:16:37 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:16:37 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
References: <123149.42311.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0C09E60897B44751A28DC4DC645F9BDA@student2>

Tony,
  Is it even possible to put the disc in backwards??? I don't know, that is 
why I'm asking. I'm not looking at a Ford unit, but it seems likely that the 
hub center would hit the flywheel near the pilot hole. Or, I'm thinking that 
it might not even be possible to bolt on the pressure plate if the 
cushioning spring section is hitting the flywheel before the lining.

Years ago I broke a pressure plate bolt on my Daganham (4 Sp.) Ranchero even 
with the disc in correctly.  It didn't take much to break the bolt given the 
forces involved from the plate.  So, I'm thinking that just about any 
obstruction (reversed disc) would have been obvious in assembly. But, like I 
said, I'm not looking at a Ford unit and am only visualizing a generic 
flywheel, disc, pressure plate setup.
Tom 

From rfraser at bluefrog.com  Fri Jul 30 10:18:04 2010
From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:18:04 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADAA8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <07764F91FBBF4BC7BC5755E8C606C847@ronpc1>

	The Rootes parts List show 2 part numbers for the pushrod; that
indicates that there is a difference and very possibly it is the length of
the pushrod.  I have never compared these parts so I don't know the
differences.  A longer pushrod should fix the problem.

	SS only list one pushrod.  You would need to contact them to find
out if it is a universal part that can fix MK I and MK II.

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Smit, Theo
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:22 AM
To: Would U. Believe; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)


If you had 3/4 inch of play between the pushrod end and the release lever
when the slave cylinder's piston is pushed all the way into its bore, then
you should get a longer pushrod. For the purpose of testing, you can easily
make one from a 3/8" or larger diameter bolt - just cut it to length and
grind the ends roughly spherical. The hydraulic setup will self-adjust
within a reasonably large limit so you don't need to have the length of the
rod exactly right, but if the rod is way too short then you run the risk of
popping the piston out of the slave cylinder bore when you press the pedal
to the floor. You have bled the master cylinder at the pipe connection,
right?

If the clutch release lever is getting full travel and the transmission
still doesn't shift properly, then there is something wrong with the way
that the clutch assembly is put together. The clutch disc could be bent, the
disc might be incompatible with the diaphragm clutch (too thick or too much
marcel
squish) or something strange with the release bearing.

Engine removal and replacement goes much faster the second time. ;)

Good luck,
Theo

> HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running.  I can only
> get it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the
> gears clash.
> This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
> Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think
> the
> issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch
> fork
> far enough to disengage.  Keep in mind that the slave is the same one
> used
> on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork
> (lever)
> are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been
> adjusted
> in any way.  I have not had time to get under the car again to check
> now,
> but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end
> of
> the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.
> So
> the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can
> or
> should make?  If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
> pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?
>


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Thank you for your cooperation.
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06:34:00

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 11:06:03 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:06:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
Message-ID: <1808889125.1059814.1280509563129.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>


From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 11:07:33 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:07:33 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
Message-ID: <1814555612.1059860.1280509653942.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>

I don't think it's possible.  There is a hub on the disc that would prevent this possibility, if I remember correctly.  M


Jul 30, 2010 11:34:08 AM, atwittsend at verizon.net wrote:

Tony,
  Is it even possible to put the disc in backwards??? I don't know, that is 
why I'm asking. I'm not looking at a Ford unit, but it seems likely that the 
hub center would hit the flywheel near the pilot hole. Or, I'm thinking that 
it might not even be possible to bolt on the pressure plate if the 
cushioning spring section is hitting the flywheel before the lining.

Years ago I broke a pressure plate bolt on my Daganham (4 Sp.) Ranchero even 
with the disc in correctly.  It didn't take much to break the bolt given the 
forces involved from the plate.  So, I'm thinking that just about any 
obstruction (reversed disc) would have been obvious in assembly. But, like I 
said, I'm not looking at a Ford unit and am only visualizing a generic 
flywheel, disc, pressure plate setup.
Tom 
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com  Fri Jul 30 11:38:04 2010
From: clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com (Cullen McCann)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:38:04 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <1814555612.1059860.1280509653942.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <1814555612.1059860.1280509653942.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <004501cb300d$f7bbf6f0$e733e4d0$@com>

Ford units are definitely that way...cannot put the disc in backwards, the
spring housing will hit the flywheel by a 1/4" or so before the disc ever
lays flat...so it would be obviously incorrect.


I don't think it's possible.  There is a hub on the disc that would prevent
this possibility, if I remember correctly.  M





Jul 30, 2010 11:34:08 AM, atwittsend at verizon.net wrote:

Tony,
  Is it even possible to put the disc in backwards??? I don't know, that is 
why I'm asking. I'm not looking at a Ford unit, but it seems likely that the

hub center would hit the flywheel near the pilot hole. Or, I'm thinking that

it might not even be possible to bolt on the pressure plate if the 
cushioning spring section is hitting the flywheel before the lining.

Years ago I broke a pressure plate bolt on my Daganham (4 Sp.) Ranchero even

with the disc in correctly.  It didn't take much to break the bolt given the

forces involved from the plate.  So, I'm thinking that just about any 
obstruction (reversed disc) would have been obvious in assembly. But, like I

said, I'm not looking at a Ford unit and am only visualizing a generic 
flywheel, disc, pressure plate setup.
Tom 

From denismercier at telvic.net  Fri Jul 30 11:48:17 2010
From: denismercier at telvic.net (denis mercier)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 13:48:17 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] ***SPAM***  Need help
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <00643F79027A4681BD9A97FE3F54D3A1@D7F0WHF1>

Theo.
My car has bolt-on traction bar,what is Dan Walters torque arm ?
         Thanks.
         Denis.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
To: "denis mercier" <denismercier at telvic.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:53 PM
Subject: RE: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help


The sidewall height of the 185-70's is going to be (theoretically) about 5% 
more than the 205-60's. So that will get you a little more compliance. The 
bigger difference, if any, will come from differences in the tire 
construction. Are the 205's you have performance oriented? If so, then going 
to a street-type tire will help.

I found a large difference in ride quality from removing the traction 
masters and going to Dan Walters' torque arm; and from changing the front 
swaybar to have proper bearing blocks and attaching them to the control arm 
only at the outboard ends. The stock suspension flexes the swaybar even on 
normal bump and rebound, and that and the friction in the OEM swaybar mounts 
makes the front suspension harsh.

I'm also running 205/45-16 tires, and 450 pound per inch front springs. CAT 
springs and Koni's in the rear.

Theo

> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of denis mercier
> Sent: July 29, 2010 11:26 AM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help
>
> Hi listers.
> I use my Tiger with 205/60/13, traction is good but suspension stiff, i
> would
> like to have a smoother ride, if 185/70/13 Michelin are better ?
>              Thanks !
>              Denis.
>              B382000926LRXFE
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the 
sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, 
please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this 
e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in 
error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation. 

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Jul 30 12:12:05 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 13:12:05 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Need help
In-Reply-To: <00643F79027A4681BD9A97FE3F54D3A1@D7F0WHF1>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<00643F79027A4681BD9A97FE3F54D3A1@D7F0WHF1>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADBB1@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Hi Denis,
I've attached a link to the description of a similar product...

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/datasheets/TA2F9-33_DS_WEB.pdf

Dan's setup is designed to bolt onto the rear axle housing using four of the
rear cover bolts, and a ring surrounding the pinion bearing snout. The arm
itself fits closely beside the driveshaft and is located at the forward end
using a rubber bushing, inside a mount that you bolt/weld onto the rear center
of the X frame. Installation time was maybe two hours, tops, after I'd painted
the pieces.

The torque arm completely eliminates axle tramp due to leaf spring windup,
while also avoiding the suspension binding caused by the use of the traction
masters. I guess you could say that it still does introduce an extra
constraint because the pinion angle is fixed by the torque arm, but the torque
arm is a much more effective solution for leaf spring windup than the traction
masters.

Dan (spmdr at juno.com, IIRC) makes them in small batches... you'll have to talk
to him, for answers to 'when' and 'how much'.

Theo



> -----Original Message-----
> From: denis mercier [mailto:denismercier at telvic.net]
> Sent: July 30, 2010 11:48 AM
> To: Smit, Theo; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help
>
> Theo.
> My car has bolt-on traction bar,what is Dan Walters torque arm ?
>          Thanks.
>          Denis.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.

Thank you for your cooperation.

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 30 12:38:16 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:38:16 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] Need help
In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADBB1@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<00643F79027A4681BD9A97FE3F54D3A1@D7F0WHF1>
	<47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADBB1@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=tj6f6uDZyb2VT6njo8Oys9PNxEMayvoyws5wK@mail.gmail.com>

If the front dogbone pivots as the description states how does that
eliminate spring wrap? The diagram shows the dogbone with a bearing on the
bottom. If there is also one at the top it doesn't just go up and down, it
also has the capacity to move front to back. Am I missing something here?

Tom

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 2:12 PM, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>wrote:

> Hi Denis,
> I've attached a link to the description of a similar product...
>
> http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/download/datasheets/TA2F9-33_DS_WEB.pdf
>
> Dan's setup is designed to bolt onto the rear axle housing using four of
> the
> rear cover bolts, and a ring surrounding the pinion bearing snout. The arm
> itself fits closely beside the driveshaft and is located at the forward end
> using a rubber bushing, inside a mount that you bolt/weld onto the rear
> center
> of the X frame. Installation time was maybe two hours, tops, after I'd
> painted
> the pieces.
>
> The torque arm completely eliminates axle tramp due to leaf spring windup,
> while also avoiding the suspension binding caused by the use of the
> traction
> masters. I guess you could say that it still does introduce an extra
> constraint because the pinion angle is fixed by the torque arm, but the
> torque
> arm is a much more effective solution for leaf spring windup than the
> traction
> masters.
>
> Dan (spmdr at juno.com, IIRC) makes them in small batches... you'll have to
> talk
> to him, for answers to 'when' and 'how much'.
>
> Theo
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: denis mercier [mailto:denismercier at telvic.net]
> > Sent: July 30, 2010 11:48 AM
> > To: Smit, Theo; tigers at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help
> >
> > Theo.
> > My car has bolt-on traction bar,what is Dan Walters torque arm ?
> >          Thanks.
> >          Denis.
>
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---
> This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
> sole
> use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
> please
> be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail
> or
> any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please contact the sender and delete all copies.
>
> Thank you for your cooperation.
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com  Fri Jul 30 12:50:55 2010
From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 13:50:55 -0500
Subject: [Tigers] Need help
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=tj6f6uDZyb2VT6njo8Oys9PNxEMayvoyws5wK@mail.gmail.com>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1><47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com><00643F79027A4681BD9A97FE3F54D3A1@D7F0WHF1><47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADBB1@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<AANLkTi=tj6f6uDZyb2VT6njo8Oys9PNxEMayvoyws5wK@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965ADBB6@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>

Hi Tom,
In that setup, the dogbone allows forwards, rearwards, tilt, and side-to-side
compliance, but it constrains the pinion angle to an arc around the dogbone's
location on the chassis, which is what you want. When a forward driving torque
is applied to the rear wheels, it has the effect of applying an upward force
to the forward end of the torque arm, which then causes the rear tires to get
planted with a force that's proportional to the applied torque.

Dan's setup uses a donut-shaped rubber bushing in place of the dogbone, which
is still very effective while being substantially cheaper, as well as limiting
the lateral play in the torque arm so it won't hit the driveshaft.
Theo

From: Tom Parker [mailto:tkparker1941 at gmail.com]
Sent: July 30, 2010 12:38 PM
To: Smit, Theo
Cc: denis mercier; tigers at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Need help

If the front dogbone pivots as the description states how does that eliminate
spring wrap? The diagram shows the dogbone with a bearing on the bottom. If
there is also one at the top it doesn't just go up and down, it also has the
capacity to move front to back. Am I missing something here?

Tom


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole
use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please
be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or
any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
please contact the sender and delete all copies.



Thank you for your cooperation.

From achd73 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 30 13:45:45 2010
From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 12:45:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <004501cb300d$f7bbf6f0$e733e4d0$@com>
Message-ID: <378199.46379.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I cant say positive either way but it seems years ago I put one together
backwards BUT I have had lots of things that have created memory loss- like
being dead for 33 minutes and I used to smoke those funny smelling cigarettes-
yeah, I know, no one else ever did that- at least I wasn't a drunk. LOL Next
time I have the chance I will see IF it can be done and Report back to the
LIST. I know a S5 Alpine can be installed backwards, as my Irish friend who
has restored a beautiful S2, using a  ton of my parts, including a 1725 with
an almost brand new head. I told him DID NOT go with the engine- he used it
anyway. The Irish guys have a way of making you feel like its your fault, at
least my friend Hughie does and stories, I cant wait for everyone to meet him,
see his S2 and listen to his stories from being in the military and fighting
with the UK chaps. He isn't very big but I have witnessed him out lift and out
work men twice his size while I was setting
 in the crane. He was rebuilding 25 ton long wall shields, used to hold up the
roof while the long wall system rips the coal from the face, he came to work
with a tool box with tools much like what you would buy your child in first
grade. He was a blast to listen to. One morning a chap didn't show up, so he
told one of the guys friend to"go knock him up"! The guy looked at him and
replied if he knocked him up that not only would his girlfriend be really
pissed, his Dad would kick his arse. There where many other sayings he had,
all funnier than the one before.
 
For any golfer there is a tournament going on at the Greenbrier Hotel  in
White Sulphur Springs WVa.(Televised) I went to Greenbrier Military Sch.in
Lewisburg, about 6 miles from the Brier and we had our final ball (prom) in
the big ball room(they had 3) at the Greenbrier- if you have time, check it
out, they show shots of the whole place every so often. The President had a
bunker there, underground in case of nuclear attack- for years it was owned by
CanO railroad but they closed it down and a guy name Jim Justice bought it for
20 million. I think he was a graduate of GMS, my almamatta BUT, I have to ask
to confirm that, I  thought I read it in a newsletter BUT we are back to the
memory thing again.
Cheers to ALL.
TtT

From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 13:58:59 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (mcdangerous at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:58:59 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
Message-ID: <222080042.1065893.1280519939203.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>

I don't think it is possible to install the disc backwards because the disc has a sort of hub on one side of it, if I remember correctly.  I do remember being happy that it was sort of idiot-proof.  I think my issue has to do with the length of the pushrod, the bleeding of the system, or the installation of the slave cylinder.  I wish I could see a picture of a Mk2 slave cylinder setup.  Does anyone have a picture for me?  Thanks.  M

Jul 30, 2010 11:34:08 AM, atwittsend at verizon.net wrote:

Tony,
  Is it even possible to put the disc in backwards??? I don't know, that is 
why I'm asking. I'm not looking at a Ford unit, but it seems likely that the 
hub center would hit the flywheel near the pilot hole. Or, I'm thinking that 
it might not even be possible to bolt on the pressure plate if the 
cushioning spring section is hitting the flywheel before the lining.

Years ago I broke a pressure plate bolt on my Daganham (4 Sp.) Ranchero even 
with the disc in correctly.  It didn't take much to break the bolt given the 
forces involved from the plate.  So, I'm thinking that just about any 
obstruction (reversed disc) would have been obvious in assembly. But, like I 
said, I'm not looking at a Ford unit and am only visualizing a generic 
flywheel, disc, pressure plate setup.
Tom 
_______________________________________________
Tigers at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mcdangerous at verizon.net

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 30 14:08:29 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 16:08:29 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <378199.46379.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <004501cb300d$f7bbf6f0$e733e4d0$@com>
	<378199.46379.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTik7GH=hni_HMpztgCVyhVCSWNv06CFu7EyX-n9=@mail.gmail.com>

You can't put the disk in backwards and bolt up the pressure plate. The
center of the disk is raised about an inch on the rear facing side to house
the springs. It has to face the pressure plate. I've put a lot of things
together backwards over the years, but assembling a clutch is almost
foolproof (as long as you remember to torque the bolts...)

Y'all have me a bit nervous. I replaced my old pressure plate with a
diaphragm plate during the rebuild and haven't adjusted the system, so I
can't say whether the new clutch rod will be long enough. Guess I'll have to
get out and get under tonight. I'm gonna hate to have to pull the engine
again; I had the same cross member problems reported by a couple other guys
here.

Tom

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 3:45 PM, Tony Somebody <achd73 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I cant say positive either way but it seems years ago I put one together
> backwards BUT I have had lots of things that have created memory loss- like
> being dead for 33 minutes and I used to smoke those funny smelling
> cigarettes-
> yeah, I know, no one else ever did that- at least I wasn't a drunk. LOL
> Next
> time I have the chance I will see IF it can be done and Report back to the
> LIST. I know a S5 Alpine can be installed backwards, as my Irish friend who
> has restored a beautiful S2, using a  ton of my parts, including a 1725
> with
> an almost brand new head. I told him DID NOT go with the engine- he used it
> anyway. The Irish guys have a way of making you feel like its your fault,
> at
> least my friend Hughie does and stories, I cant wait for everyone to meet
> him,
> see his S2 and listen to his stories from being in the military and
> fighting
> with the UK chaps. He isn't very big but I have witnessed him out lift and
> out
> work men twice his size while I was setting
>  in the crane. He was rebuilding 25 ton long wall shields, used to hold up
> the
> roof while the long wall system rips the coal from the face, he came to
> work
> with a tool box with tools much like what you would buy your child in first
> grade. He was a blast to listen to. One morning a chap didn't show up, so
> he
> told one of the guys friend to"go knock him up"! The guy looked at him and
> replied if he knocked him up that not only would his girlfriend be really
> pissed, his Dad would kick his arse. There where many other sayings he had,
> all funnier than the one before.
>
> For any golfer there is a tournament going on at the Greenbrier Hotel  in
> White Sulphur Springs WVa.(Televised) I went to Greenbrier Military Sch.in
> Lewisburg, about 6 miles from the Brier and we had our final ball (prom) in
> the big ball room(they had 3) at the Greenbrier- if you have time, check it
> out, they show shots of the whole place every so often. The President had a
> bunker there, underground in case of nuclear attack- for years it was owned
> by
> CanO railroad but they closed it down and a guy name Jim Justice bought it
> for
> 20 million. I think he was a graduate of GMS, my almamatta BUT, I have to
> ask
> to confirm that, I  thought I read it in a newsletter BUT we are back to
> the
> memory thing again.
> Cheers to ALL.
> TtT
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com

From bob at rjosten.com  Fri Jul 30 14:58:07 2010
From: bob at rjosten.com (Bob Josten)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 13:58:07 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] new ford
Message-ID: <AANLkTingZmr+yVdfhj-zTfhHaVSYQMMdczLA=8L7=q_r@mail.gmail.com>

Several days ago Ford was a couple blocks away from me introducing the new
Explorer on the beach here in Venice.
One thing the ford pr guys should rethink is whether it's smart to park your
new vehicle right next to giant compelling sand sculptures that end up
stealing the show.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/yovenice/sets/72157624605036168/show/

Bob J.

From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 30 15:35:45 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:35:45 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <222080042.1065893.1280519939203.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <222080042.1065893.1280519939203.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTin_4bA=Kp9Cz27hOTKDHe2x0qTA45kbuG34u99Y@mail.gmail.com>

Couldn't wait. Out and Under... Being retired has its benefits.

I have the original Mark 2 push rod and the new adjustable one I bought from
Rick.

THEY ARE NOT THE SAME LENGTH. The Mark 1 Adjustable push rod is 4 1/4" long
fully extended; the original Mark 2 push rod is fixed at  4 3/4" long. The
half-inch apparently matters.

The parts catalog lists two part numbers for the push rod: 6100278 for the
Mark 1 and 6100856 for the Mark 2. Of course they don't say what the
difference is, but - assuming my old rod is the original - we know: 1/2" in
length. Rick only lists one part number for the push rod, it's the
adjustable Mark 1 push rod. There is only one part number for the slave
cylinder in the parts catalog.

The first item in C.A.T. Service Notes (P. D-1) says don't adjust the rod
anyway. It's dated 1965; apparently they fixed the length in the Mark 2.

The slave bracket mounts on the transmission side of the bell housing.
There's only one way to put it in; two bolts on the side, one on the bottom.
That puts it closest to the pivot arm. The slave mounts to the engine side
of the bracket. It'll only go in one way also.

Tom

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 3:58 PM, <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:

> I don't think it is possible to install the disc backwards because the disc
> has a sort of hub on one side of it, if I remember correctly.  I do remember
> being happy that it was sort of idiot-proof.  I think my issue has to do
> with the length of the pushrod, the bleeding of the system, or the
> installation of the slave cylinder.  I wish I could see a picture of a Mk2
> slave cylinder setup.  Does anyone have a picture for me?  Thanks.  M
>
> Jul 30, 2010 11:34:08 AM, atwittsend at verizon.net wrote:
>
> Tony,
>  Is it even possible to put the disc in backwards??? I don't know, that is
> why I'm asking. I'm not looking at a Ford unit, but it seems likely that
> the
> hub center would hit the flywheel near the pilot hole. Or, I'm thinking
> that
> it might not even be possible to bolt on the pressure plate if the
> cushioning spring section is hitting the flywheel before the lining.
>
> Years ago I broke a pressure plate bolt on my Daganham (4 Sp.) Ranchero
> even
> with the disc in correctly.  It didn't take much to break the bolt given
> the
> forces involved from the plate.  So, I'm thinking that just about any
> obstruction (reversed disc) would have been obvious in assembly. But, like
> I
> said, I'm not looking at a Ford unit and am only visualizing a generic
> flywheel, disc, pressure plate setup.
> Tom
> _______________________________________________
> Tigers at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From CoolVT at aol.com  Fri Jul 30 15:55:38 2010
From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:55:38 EDT
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
Message-ID: <daa98.384f7a71.3984a45a@aol.com>

The  first item in C.A.T. Service Notes (P. D-1) says don't adjust the  rod
 
I think that's assuming you haven't changed any clutch  parts, bellhousing  
or the clutch fork.  To my thinking, one way or  another you have to have 
the proper clearance between the end of the rod and the  fork to begin with.
M

From jrv309 at charter.net  Fri Jul 30 16:17:53 2010
From: jrv309 at charter.net (jrv309 at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:17:53 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] ***SPAM***  Need help
In-Reply-To: <00643F79027A4681BD9A97FE3F54D3A1@D7F0WHF1>
References: <3DAE15D18384469BABE7ACC0DB5DC7AE@D7F0WHF1><47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068405965AD95E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com>
	<00643F79027A4681BD9A97FE3F54D3A1@D7F0WHF1>
Message-ID: <058CFB02D9DE44B2B4CC010DD579A778@NewDell>

Denis;  We have the Dan Walters torque arm and are very pleased.  We use the 
bolt-on traction bar hook ups on the rear leave spring as tie down points 
for our trailer.  Jerry and Marlene with the Candy Apple Tiger in Oregon.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "denis mercier" <denismercier at telvic.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:48 AM
To: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] ***SPAM***  Need help

> Theo.
> My car has bolt-on traction bar,what is Dan Walters torque arm ?
>         Thanks.
>         Denis.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Smit, Theo" <Theo.Smit at dynastream.com>
> To: "denis mercier" <denismercier at telvic.net>; <tigers at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:53 PM
> Subject: RE: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help
>
>
> The sidewall height of the 185-70's is going to be (theoretically) about 
> 5% more than the 205-60's. So that will get you a little more compliance. 
> The bigger difference, if any, will come from differences in the tire 
> construction. Are the 205's you have performance oriented? If so, then 
> going to a street-type tire will help.
>
> I found a large difference in ride quality from removing the traction 
> masters and going to Dan Walters' torque arm; and from changing the front 
> swaybar to have proper bearing blocks and attaching them to the control 
> arm only at the outboard ends. The stock suspension flexes the swaybar 
> even on normal bump and rebound, and that and the friction in the OEM 
> swaybar mounts makes the front suspension harsh.
>
> I'm also running 205/45-16 tires, and 450 pound per inch front springs. 
> CAT springs and Koni's in the rear.
>
> Theo
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-
>> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of denis mercier
>> Sent: July 29, 2010 11:26 AM
>> To: tigers at autox.team.net
>> Subject: ***SPAM*** [Tigers] Need help
>>
>> Hi listers.
>> I use my Tiger with 205/60/13, traction is good but suspension stiff, i
>> would
>> like to have a smoother ride, if 185/70/13 Michelin are better ?
>>              Thanks !
>>              Denis.
>>              B382000926LRXFE
>> _______________________________________________
>> Tigers at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com
>
>
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> please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this 
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> Thank you for your cooperation. 
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From tkparker1941 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 30 16:20:18 2010
From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:20:18 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <daa98.384f7a71.3984a45a@aol.com>
References: <daa98.384f7a71.3984a45a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimA2u-wm1PMJWEvpSJkRPsR2CSN4VLJkNVW1rko@mail.gmail.com>

Yup!

For the group: With the original push rod installed in a new slave cylinder
and bolted to the bell housing mount, there is some movement of the push rod
into the slave cylinder (that is, the piston is not bottomed in the
cylinder). I'd guess about 1/4", but that's a guess. I suspect it has to be
there so the throwout bearing isn't forced on to the clutch fingers by the
slave cylinder. I can attest that a sticking slave or master cylinder can
eat up a clutch. Been there.

Thanks to all; if it hadn't been mentioned I'd be right there with a
transmission that wouldn't shift with the engine running. A lot easier to
fix with cold headers.

Tom



On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 5:55 PM, <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:

>  **
>
>
> The first item in C.A.T. Service Notes (P. D-1) says don't adjust the rod
>
> **
> *I think that's assuming you haven't changed any clutch parts, bellhousing
>  or the clutch fork.  To my thinking, one way or another you have to have
> the proper clearance between the end of the rod and the fork to begin with.
> M*

From Robin02 at mindspring.com  Fri Jul 30 16:55:07 2010
From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:55:07 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] FW:  Exhaust system
Message-ID: <E1OeyU6-0008Qg-BS@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Allen, the collector on the headers will have to transition down to whatever
pipe size you go with. The guy I used said a crossover tube 17" minimum back
from the exhaust ports on equal length headers helps them scavenge and
reduces back pressure. It happens that there is room ahead of the cruciform
and behind the reducer for a 1 1/4" cross over pipe. I bought welding
flanges and gaskets for this from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty for a 0-200
Continental engine.

Just a consideration....Robin Young B9471769



Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exhaust system

I checked a local shop and they are able and willing for  reasonable price
to
make a 2" exhaust from factory header back.

Still trying to determine what blew out yesterday and now fear that a head
gasket blew.

A sound like the sound produced by a hole in an old muffler comes from the
vicinity of the right side head but
I haven't gotten under the car yet; might be that side's down-pipe....

Allan Ballard
Atlanta, GA



On Jul 28, 2010, at 10:39 PM, Ron Fraser wrote:

> Allan
> 	SS exhaust system states it is a 1 3/4" system.   I would guess that
> Classic Sunbeam also has a 1 3/4" system but you can verify that by
> contacting them directly.
>
> I had a 2" system made for my Tiger by a shop that was also fixing a few
> other problems I had with the Tiger.   They could get the stainless pipe
for
> a good price and the cost of the whole system installed was reasonable.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Allan Ballard
> Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:32 PM
> To: Tiger Talk List Tiger
> Subject: [Tigers] Exhaust system
>
>
> While doing a "test drive" tonight my Mk1a's 44 year old exhaust became
> history :) .
>
> Looking at the online catalogs for Classic Sunbeam and Sunbeam
Specialties,
> I see that both offer a stainless system from header to tailpipe.
>
> I suspect both are the same diameter as factory-- 1 3/4 inches (I think).
>
> Does anyone have any info on these two systems?
>
> Except for price, is their a difference?
>
> Allan Ballard

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Fri Jul 30 17:02:50 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 16:02:50 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
References: <222080042.1065893.1280519939203.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>
	<AANLkTin_4bA=Kp9Cz27hOTKDHe2x0qTA45kbuG34u99Y@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4B5A180AD844DF5AC9A98DB5CA9B9F4@student2>

For those who like to tinker..., a spare, thin brake shoe adjuster might 
also be the start of a home made clutch adjuster.  Obviously to have a lathe 
would be nice, but if you have a drill press and a file and time ... .  If 
it is not long enough get a proper length bolt, cut the head off etc.. Don't 
forget the jam nut.
Tom (Witt)
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Tom Parker
  To: mcdangerous at verizon.net
  Cc: atwittsend at verizon.net ; tigers at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 2:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)


  Couldn't wait. Out and Under... Being retired has its benefits.

  I have the original Mark 2 push rod and the new adjustable one I bought 
from Rick.

  THEY ARE NOT THE SAME LENGTH. The Mark 1 Adjustable push rod is 4 1/4" 
long fully extended; the original Mark 2 push rod is fixed at  4 3/4" long. 
The half-inch apparently matters.

  The parts catalog lists two part numbers for the push rod: 6100278 for the 
Mark 1 and 6100856 for the Mark 2. Of course they don't say what the 
difference is, but - assuming my old rod is the original - we know: 1/2" in 
length. Rick only lists one part number for the push rod, it's the 
adjustable Mark 1 push rod. There is only one part number for the slave 
cylinder in the parts catalog.

  The first item in C.A.T. Service Notes (P. D-1) says don't adjust the rod 
anyway. It's dated 1965; apparently they fixed the length in the Mark 2.

  The slave bracket mounts on the transmission side of the bell housing. 
There's only one way to put it in; two bolts on the side, one on the bottom. 
That puts it closest to the pivot arm. The slave mounts to the engine side 
of the bracket. It'll only go in one way also.

  Tom


  On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 3:58 PM, <mcdangerous at verizon.net> wrote:

    I don't think it is possible to install the disc backwards because the 
disc has a sort of hub on one side of it, if I remember correctly.  I do 
remember being happy that it was sort of idiot-proof.  I think my issue has 
to do with the length of the pushrod, the bleeding of the system, or the 
installation of the slave cylinder.  I wish I could see a picture of a Mk2 
slave cylinder setup.  Does anyone have a picture for me?  Thanks.  M

    Jul 30, 2010 11:34:08 AM, atwittsend at verizon.net wrote:

    Tony,
     Is it even possible to put the disc in backwards??? I don't know, that 
is
    why I'm asking. I'm not looking at a Ford unit, but it seems likely that 
the
    hub center would hit the flywheel near the pilot hole. Or, I'm thinking 
that
    it might not even be possible to bolt on the pressure plate if the
    cushioning spring section is hitting the flywheel before the lining.

    Years ago I broke a pressure plate bolt on my Daganham (4 Sp.) Ranchero 
even
    with the disc in correctly.  It didn't take much to break the bolt given 
the
    forces involved from the plate.  So, I'm thinking that just about any
    obstruction (reversed disc) would have been obvious in assembly. But, 
like I
    said, I'm not looking at a Ford unit and am only visualizing a generic
    flywheel, disc, pressure plate setup.
    Tom

    _______________________________________________
    Tigers at autox.team.net
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    Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From mcdangerous at verizon.net  Sat Jul 31 17:30:32 2010
From: mcdangerous at verizon.net (Would U. Believe)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 19:30:32 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimA2u-wm1PMJWEvpSJkRPsR2CSN4VLJkNVW1rko@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C87A2A58.4159%mcdangerous@verizon.net>

I thought I should report the solution to the List.  I figured out what was
going on.  I got my wife to press the clutch pedal and it turns out that one
of the bolts holding the slave in place only looked tight.  In reality, the
slave cylinder flexed toward the engine when the pedal was pressed.  I
tightened that bolt and the problem was resolved.  I also readjusted the
shifter just in case.  I finally got to drive the car today for the first
time with the new setup.  What a difference.  It feels like a new car.  So
happy...  Thanks a lot.  M


On 7/30/10 6:20 PM, "Tom Parker" <tkparker1941 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yup!
>
> For the group: With the original push rod installed in a new slave cylinder
> and bolted to the bell housing mount, there is some movement of the push
rod
> into the slave cylinder (that is, the piston is not bottomed in the
cylinder).
> I'd guess about 1/4", but that's a guess. I suspect it has to be there so
the
> throwout bearing isn't forced on to the clutch fingers by the slave
cylinder.
> I can attest that a sticking slave or master cylinder can eat up a clutch.
> Been there.
>
> Thanks to all; if it hadn't been mentioned I'd be right there with a
> transmission that wouldn't shift with the engine running. A lot easier to
fix
> with cold headers.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 5:55 PM,  <CoolVT at aol.com> wrote:
>>  
>>  
>>> The  first item in C.A.T. Service Notes (P. D-1) says don't adjust the
rod
>>  
>> I think that's assuming you haven't changed any clutch parts, bellhousing
 or
>> the clutch fork.  To my thinking, one way or another you have to have the
>> proper clearance between the end of the rod and the fork to begin with.
>> M
>>>
>>>  

From allanballard at att.net  Sat Jul 31 20:07:55 2010
From: allanballard at att.net (Allan Ballard)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 22:07:55 -0400
Subject: [Tigers] 289 heads
In-Reply-To: <C87A2A58.4159%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
References: <C87A2A58.4159%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <972C4EA5-11D1-44DA-9031-EB0A23A04135@att.net>

Is there any performance advantage to 289 heads on a stock 260 Tiger motor?

I need to redo my valves to be ready for current unleaded gas, and thought to
rebuild 289 heads
instead off a 64 1/2 5 bolt 289 motor if there is any performance
advantage...

If not, might as well redo the valves on the 260 heads.

Thanks in avance,

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sat Jul 31 21:32:18 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:32:18 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] 289 heads
References: <C87A2A58.4159%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<972C4EA5-11D1-44DA-9031-EB0A23A04135@att.net>
Message-ID: <889DB98F1C254CF6B8F5B8FAA20F7144@student2>

You might want to look at this link.  What I read it seems there is little 
difference.  However, others may have experience to the contrary.  I can 
tell you that neither have hardened seats.
Tom


> Is there any performance advantage to 289 heads on a stock 260 Tiger 
> motor?

From atwittsend at verizon.net  Sat Jul 31 21:34:18 2010
From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:34:18 -0700
Subject: [Tigers] 289 heads (opps, the link)
References: <C87A2A58.4159%mcdangerous@verizon.net>
	<972C4EA5-11D1-44DA-9031-EB0A23A04135@att.net>
Message-ID: <D36DE31F4270438F9E11A01721740EBA@student2>

Opps..., the link http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange5.html



> Is there any performance advantage to 289 heads on a stock 260 Tiger 
> motor?