[Tigers] Frame jig

Al Fudge allfudge1635 at gmail.com
Mon Dec 20 17:16:18 MST 2010


Clarke,

We are thinking along the same lines.  I may be at overkill with building
the frame out of 6 x 4 tubing.  I have been thinking about making it longer
than the car so I can put it on the rotisserie, and also have teh option to
place it on legs.  I'll probably have the materials all sut and then deliver
to a machine shop so I can be sure it's set up true.  I haven't started the
design yet: I'd love to see your images.  They probably won't be allowed on
the Tiger list but if your so inclined you could send them to al at airtest.us,
my alter ego.

Thanks,

Al

On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 3:15 AM, Clarkwgriswold <clarkwgriswold2nd at gmail.com
> wrote:

> Hi Al, I do have some thoughts on how a good frame jig should be built. I
> had some help when my Tiger had some sheet metal work done, saw it on it's
> frame jig, and now I'm building a frame jig myself to make some similar body
> panel repairs to my Pantera, also a monocoque car. In my opinion, a good
> frame jig is first and foremost square and level to high degree of
> precision. I would say within a 32nd of an inch across it's plane. Its
> footprint size should be large enough that you can weld directly to the
> table or jig and build a support for the car about anywhere, even to the
> outside of the body. I think for me it will be about 12 inches larger than
> the car in each direction.  I will start by building a frame out if 2x4 or
> so .120 wall rectangular tubing, with legs of the same material about 24 to
> 30 inches tall. The legs should be triangulated and braced against flex it
> movement. Some would have a whole other frame outline near the bottom of the
> legs and diagonal braces in each side opening. The main thing a frame table
> or jig table needs to do is obviously support the car and be stronger than
> the cars tendency to flex when critical panels are removed it when heat is
> applied through welding to it. Lastly, some will top the table with a thick
> plate, often 3/4 or even 1" thick steel plate, and true it to the frame.
> This is hard because the cold rolled steel plate will have a natural bow to
> it, and it will weigh a huge amount, potentially a thousand pounds....but
> with welding it to the table properly you can use a Porto power and such to
> true it up to tolerance. Lastly I would have super heavy duty locking
> casters so you can roll it around. I will actual  have like 1" all thread
> threaded rod just to the inside of the legs that will have feet that can
> adjust down lower than the casters to make it immobile and also level the
> table. Off the floor.
>
> That's how I would do it. I have a few images I created of one I built on a
> computer model, and would be happy to send you if you like.
>
> I have a few more thoughts but gotta run. Will chat again later.
>
>
>
> Sent from my mobile...
>
> On Dec 19, 2010, at 7:24 PM, Al Fudge <allfudge1635 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > All,
> >
> > The more I look at my Tiger the more I realize I'll need a frame jig to
> > support the body as I make the repairs.  Does anyone have any sources or
> > ideas about the construction of a jig?  I have a few thoughts about the
> > construction of the jig and I have lots of time now to continue thinking
> as
> > I just had rotator cuff surgery a few weeks ago.  Any sources or thoughts
> > about a frame jig are much appreciated.
> >
> > Al
> > B9471635
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