From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 01:20:57 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 02:20:57 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401082057.92A9F2E076@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those first faintly glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Thu Apr 1 15:53:24 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 17:53:24 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness In-Reply-To: References: <26902.91151.qm@web114101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <698668274AB048498439369EDB7BDC18@awtigerPC> <39999C26A1264F2A881ED1A7546BADAF@JIMPC> Message-ID: <000001cad1ee$23067d90$691378b0$@rr.com> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-1.jpg Believe it or not, found this on Craigs List. From the build sheet and blueprint information I received, the seller had $4600 into this short block. I got it for less than half of that. Will not even think of installation in my Tiger before spring next year. I have many more parts to buy. I also have lots of searching to do so that install goes without a hitch. More pictures with specifics soon. Duke B382002037 From sganz at pacbell.net Thu Apr 1 21:16:02 2010 From: sganz at pacbell.net (Sandy Ganz) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 21:16:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness In-Reply-To: <000001cad1ee$23067d90$691378b0$@rr.com> References: <26902.91151.qm@web114101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <698668274AB048498439369EDB7BDC18@awtigerPC> <39999C26A1264F2A881ED1A7546BADAF@JIMPC> <000001cad1ee$23067d90$691378b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <911276.74566.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Nice another Tiger getting a proper engine! Sandy ----- Original Message ---- From: wsamouce To: Tiger email list Sent: Thu, April 1, 2010 3:53:24 PM Subject: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-1.jpg Believe it or not, found this on Craigs List. From the build sheet and blueprint information I received, the seller had $4600 into this short block. I got it for less than half of that. Will not even think of installation in my Tiger before spring next year. I have many more parts to buy. I also have lots of searching to do so that install goes without a hitch. More pictures with specifics soon. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sganz at pacbell.net From drmayf at mayfco.com Thu Apr 1 22:46:45 2010 From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 22:46:45 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness In-Reply-To: <911276.74566.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <26902.91151.qm@web114101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <698668274AB048498439369EDB7BDC18@awtigerPC> <39999C26A1264F2A881ED1A7546BADAF@JIMPC> <000001cad1ee$23067d90$691378b0$@rr.com> <911276.74566.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BB584C5.3050303@mayfco.com> Good Evening, Sandy.. Interesting comment you made...just what might be considered a "proper engine".... I have been thinking that that might be a 363 CID World Products Man-O- War with AFR 225 cc heads, 9.5 comp turbo of course, lol.... what are you up to these days? mayf Sandy Ganz wrote: >Nice another Tiger getting a proper engine! > >Sandy > > > >----- Original Message >---- >From: wsamouce >To: Tiger email list > >Sent: Thu, April 1, 2010 3:53:24 PM >Subject: [Tigers] >A little 347 goodness >http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001.jpg >http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-1.jpg > >Believe it or not, >found this on Craigs List. From the build sheet and >blueprint information I >received, the seller had $4600 into this short >block. I got it for less than >half of that. > >Will not even think of installation in my Tiger before spring >next year. I >have many more parts to buy. I also have lots of searching to >do so that >install goes without a hitch. > >More pictures with specifics soon. >Duke >B382002037 From dave at munroe.ca Fri Apr 2 05:15:02 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Fri, 02 Apr 2010 09:15:02 -0300 Subject: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness In-Reply-To: <4BB584C5.3050303@mayfco.com> References: <26902.91151.qm@web114101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <698668274AB048498439369EDB7BDC18@awtigerPC> <39999C26A1264F2A881ED1A7546BADAF@JIMPC> <000001cad1ee$23067d90$691378b0$@rr.com> <911276.74566.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4BB584C5.3050303@mayfco.com> Message-ID: <108695121D0246AFB3DD343DE64F63E7@DavePC> Mayf; Sandy; I like your perspectives.....! ----- Original Message ----- From: "drmayf" To: "Sandy Ganz" Cc: Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 2:46 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness > Good Evening, Sandy.. > Interesting comment you made...just what might be considered a "proper > engine".... I have been thinking that that might be a 363 CID World > Products Man-O- War with AFR 225 cc heads, 9.5 comp turbo of course, > lol.... > > what are you up to these days? > > mayf > Sandy Ganz wrote: > >>Nice another Tiger getting a proper engine! >> >>Sandy >> >> >> >>----- Original Message >>---- >>From: wsamouce >>To: Tiger email list >> >>Sent: Thu, April 1, 2010 3:53:24 PM >>Subject: [Tigers] >>A little 347 goodness >>http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001.jpg >>http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-1.jpg >> >>Believe it or not, >>found this on Craigs List. From the build sheet and >>blueprint information I >>received, the seller had $4600 into this short >>block. I got it for less than >>half of that. >> >>Will not even think of installation in my Tiger before spring >>next year. I >>have many more parts to buy. I also have lots of searching to >>do so that >>install goes without a hitch. >> >>More pictures with specifics soon. >>Duke >>B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca From mgman71 at comcast.net Fri Apr 2 06:56:43 2010 From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 13:56:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Color ? and side clip ? In-Reply-To: <1792388814.1441991270216520505.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1744084814.1442461270216603061.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: "George Re" To: tiger at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 2, 2010 9:55:20 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Color ? and side clip ? Hello I know this has been asked before and I save the notes BUT I can not find my notes. Does anyone have the modern paint code for the BRG color? and also what clips and be used on the side moldings? Thanks Again George From rfraser at bluefrog.com Fri Apr 2 07:58:16 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 10:58:16 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Color ? and side clip ? In-Reply-To: <1744084814.1442461270216603061.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5AF47CD509D54315B89F6BEB90C71D8A@ronpc1> George I don't have a modern paint code for BRG; you could try contacting Dale's Shop or Doug Jennings. These are the numbers I have for BRG; one may help you: Ditzler # 43313 Lucite # 8421LH Dulux # 97191 Chrysler # 75242857 Berger code 404.2106 Side molding clips Sunbeam Specialties carries them and probably Classic Sunbeam Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Re Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 9:57 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Color ? and side clip ? ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: "George Re" To: tiger at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 2, 2010 9:55:20 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Color ? and side clip ? Hello I know this has been asked before and I save the notes BUT I can not find my notes. Does anyone have the modern paint code for the BRG color? and also what clips and be used on the side moldings? Thanks Again George _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2783 - Release Date: 04/02/10 06:32:00 From Rollright at aol.com Fri Apr 2 16:08:41 2010 From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 19:08:41 EDT Subject: [Tigers] engine Message-ID: <304f8.3c358f4f.38e7d2f9@aol.com> Duke, What a buy and what a monster ! It'll go sideways in each gear. Lucky you! Jim Armstrong Mk 1A 382002083 LRXFE From v8tracker at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 23:35:11 2010 From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 01:35:11 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness In-Reply-To: <000001cad1ee$23067d90$691378b0$@rr.com> References: <26902.91151.qm@web114101.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><698668274AB048498439369EDB7BDC18@awtigerPC><39999C26A1264F2A881ED1A7546BADAF@JIMPC> <000001cad1ee$23067d90$691378b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Duke, That's beautiful - I'd love to be there when you start it for the first time. Feel free to ignore the rest of this since you probably already know it, but just in case, here are a couple of comments. I expect that the paperwork with the engine shows how it was balanced - internally to zero or externally to 28 or 50 ounce/inches. That will determine what kind of flywheel and crankshaft balancer to use. You may want to think about converting to a serpentine belt system. The 96+ Explorer system supposedly shortens your engine by about 1.5 inches in front. This is what I am using on my Tracker and I can send you some pictures and measurements if you like. (The engine is in my garage ready to be disassembled, so it would be no trouble.) In any event, congratulations, you lucky, uhm, guy. Best regards, A. C. Tynes > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce > Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 5:53 PM > To: 'Tiger email list' > Subject: [Tigers] A little 347 goodness > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001.jpg > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-1.jpg > > Believe it or not, found this on Craigs List. From the build > sheet and blueprint information I received, the seller had > $4600 into this short block. I got it for less than half of that. > > Will not even think of installation in my Tiger before spring > next year. I have many more parts to buy. I also have lots > of searching to do so that install goes without a hitch. > > More pictures with specifics soon. > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com From rande at thecia.net Sat Apr 3 09:26:28 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 12:26:28 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Chrome H/L rims and mldg clips Message-ID: <4bb76c34.24d0.0@thecia.net> First, someone was looking for a source for Tiger side moulding fasteners. Assuming you're not looking for the very original rivets, and are drilling holes in the position the rivets were originally, one source, of course, is Rick at Sunbeam Specialties. If for some reason you can't wait for Rick's to ship, there's another local source. A very nice clip was used on most of the models of 1975 and 1976 Volkswagen Rabbits sold in the U.S. The VW part number is 155-853-585. It's identical to Ricks, with the added benefit that it has a rubber o-ring that, when pressed in, will seal against the hole that was drilled. I keep them in the same bin at home that I have Rick's. As for the individual (hanjan?), I thought their response was a little too categorical about chrome headlight rims without attribution, so I asked Brian Postle of Sunbeam Spares (and STOC). His own car, #605 (one of the Hartwell Six), has painted rims ( it was Orchid Green, now a metallic blue), but numbers 633 and 632 both have chrome headlight rims. These are, respectively, the highest and second highest I.D. number cars, near the very end of production. He said, as far as he could tell, he thought all Mark II's originally used the painted rim. Someone pointed out to me that there was just one part number in the January 1968 parts catalog covering 'first production Mark II' and the last 1,200 Alpine V's!!!!. No supercessions, no optional numbers, no 'second production Mark II'. As a side note, a seller from Quebec recently auctioned off a pair of slightly marred NOS chrome rims for $333.25. Ouch. I asked the seller, before the end of the auction, what the part number on these NOS rims was. He said they didn't come in a Rootes/Chrysler or Lucas package, but he quoted the Rootes number from the catalog. In other words, he didn't know. From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net Sat Apr 3 13:21:47 2010 From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin) Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2010 16:21:47 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] body mldg clips Message-ID: <000c01cad36b$49633400$0301a8c0@chesapeake4> Hi Listers, I tried using the VW clips, didn't work on my MK1A, got ones from SS and they worked correctly, anyone want some free VW ones, I have a hole box, Clyde From dsmtjoy at cox.net Sat Apr 3 15:03:11 2010 From: dsmtjoy at cox.net (Mountjoy) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 15:03:11 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Hagerty References: <597DDFF471C349DC992D932CF21FD6EF@computer> <4BAEA08A.1090007@socal.rr.com> <4BAEAD9F.8000602@cthompson.net> Message-ID: <29B918FEB510458DA52C42BA0B1AF5C7@computer> Chris- See my message to Steve ! Darrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Thompson" To: "Steve Laifman" Cc: ; "Mountjoy" Sent: Saturday, March 27, 2010 6:15 PM Subject: Hagerty > Hagerty (who insures my car collection) also seems to like the Tiger - > > http://www.hagerty.com/lifestyle/hobby_article.aspx?id=64810 > > Steve Laifman wrote: >> Tigers, >> >> I just went to Hagerty's site and asked for a >> quote for "Stated Value" $50,000 for my '65 Mk I and $25,000 for my 2005 >> Thunderbird. From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 3 15:51:48 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 18:51:48 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] body mldg clips In-Reply-To: <000c01cad36b$49633400$0301a8c0@chesapeake4> Message-ID: <2CBCF47E5A1C4396BE0E838959ABC9A4@ronpc1> Clyde Don't be too hasty about VW clips. I know I sent you a part number about this with a disclaimer that I did not know if it was correct number or not; it was not, my apologies. VW plastic clip 113-853-585C; VW 67 - 81 Auveco list this as part #10322 is the number I sent out; it is wrong but it was the only part I found in the Auveco catalog that looked similar to SS part. The VW part number is 155-853-585. This is the number Rande sent out and a Google search gives a picture very much like the part SS sells. Part numbers are important; always check them to make sure everyone is talking about the same part. Thank you Rande for providing a better number. When in doubt buy from the Sunbeam dealers; they have the correct parts and we need to support them. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clyde McLaughlin Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 4:22 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] body mldg clips Hi Listers, I tried using the VW clips, didn't work on my MK1A, got ones from SS and they worked correctly, anyone want some free VW ones, I have a hole box, Clyde _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2785 - Release Date: 04/02/10 06:32:00 From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Sat Apr 3 16:24:57 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 16:24:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Chrome H/L rims and mldg clips In-Reply-To: <4bb76c34.24d0.0@thecia.net> Message-ID: <304401.77645.qm@web111608.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> When I will put my side molding back on, I do what an old CAT tip recommended. Go down to the hardware store and buy small stainless machine screws whose head fits in the molding lot. Put the molding in place and slide the screws until you get to their hole. I added nuts with split ring washers and washers. I finger tightened verything until I was happy. Once happy I conched the nutts but not so hard to hurt the paint. You can get to all the nuts from inside the car. The only one that was a problem was the small strip on the front fender. I used a SS type fasteners I got at a VW dealer. New time I may use nylon machine screws. Their nuts look like they won't looser. Dave --- On Sat, 4/3/10, rande wrote: From: rande Subject: [Tigers] Chrome H/L rims and mldg clips To: tigers at autox.team.net Cc: alpines at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, April 3, 2010, 4:26 PM First, someone was looking for a source for Tiger side moulding fasteners. Assuming you're not looking for the very original rivets, and are drilling holes in the position the rivets were originally, one source, of course, is Rick at Sunbeam Specialties. If for some reason you can't wait for Rick's to ship, there's another local source. A very nice clip was used on most of the models of 1975 and 1976 Volkswagen Rabbits sold in the U.S. The VW part number is 155-853-585. It's identical to Ricks, with the added benefit that it has a rubber o-ring that, when pressed in, will seal against the hole that was drilled. I keep them in the same bin at home that I have Rick's. As for the individual (hanjan?), I thought their response was a little too categorical about chrome headlight rims without attribution, so I asked Brian Postle of Sunbeam Spares (and STOC). His own car, #605 (one of the Hartwell Six), has painted rims ( it was Orchid Green, now a metallic blue), but numbers 633 and 632 both have chrome headlight rims. These are, respectively, the highest and second highest I.D. number cars, near the very end of production. He said, as far as he could tell, he thought all Mark II's originally used the painted rim. Someone pointed out to me that there was just one part number in the January 1968 parts catalog covering 'first production Mark II' and the last 1,200 Alpine V's!!!!. No supercessions, no optional numbers, no 'second production Mark II'. As a side note, a seller from Quebec recently auctioned off a pair of slightly marred NOS chrome rims for $333.25. Ouch. I asked the seller, before the end of the auction, what the part number on these NOS rims was. He said they didn't come in a Rootes/Chrysler or Lucas package, but he quoted the Rootes number from the catalog. In other words, he didn't know. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From michael.s.king at gmail.com Sat Apr 3 16:37:38 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 09:37:38 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Chrome H/L rims and mldg clips In-Reply-To: <4bb76c34.24d0.0@thecia.net> References: <4bb76c34.24d0.0@thecia.net> Message-ID: > As a side note, a seller from Quebec recently auctioned off a pair of > slightly > marred NOS chrome rims for $333.25. Ouch. I asked the seller, before the > end > of the auction, what the part number on these NOS rims was. He said they > didn't > come in a Rootes/Chrysler or Lucas package, but he quoted the Rootes number > from the catalog. In other words, he didn't know. That price for the "MKII" rims was not to bad given recent prices.. as for being MKII.. we know they are the same casting but wrong finish. I have NOS chrome and painted in primer MKII rims, they both share the same part numbers on the back of the rim, that seller should have been able to give you the nu,ber off the rim. to see pics go to : http://catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=169 -- Regards Michael King From slaifman at socal.rr.com Mon Apr 5 13:41:52 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 12:41:52 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Chrome H/L rims and mldg clips In-Reply-To: <304401.77645.qm@web111608.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <304401.77645.qm@web111608.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BBA3D00.6080909@socal.rr.com> David, and Tigers (Alpines too, if this gets through to them - Maybe David can forward it) In this back-and-forth about fasteners, it awoke my memory. I purchased some stainless small screw, nuts, washers and split lock washers. I seem to recall 10-40, but check your existing holes. By careful filing, I made the head into a square, thin shape and thickness, that fit the rear most stainless slot access hole. Since these side pieces have an enlarged hole in the track back-side to install the original studs, I could insert the squared heads and then slide it into position where the fender/door holes are. I did this for every position that was accessible from the rear. The stainless nuts and washers were tightened snugly (not hard) with a small wrench or socket, from inside the car or trunk. Works great. Strips won't fall off in jarring over a rough road. Rust doesn't happen. That doesn't mean the original sheet metal won't rust, but painting the hole before installation can help. Steve David T Johnson wrote: > When I will put my side molding back on, I do what an old > CAT tip recommended. Go down to the hardware store and buy > small stainless machine screws whose head fits in the > molding lot. > > Put the molding in place and slide the screws until you > get to their hole. I added nuts with split ring washers and > washers. I finger tightened verything until I was happy. > Once happy I conched the nutts but not so hard to > hurt the paint. > > You can get to all the nuts from inside the car. The only > one that was a problem was the small strip on the front > fender. I used a SS type fasteners I got at a VW dealer. > > New time I may use nylon machine screws. Their > nuts look like they won't looser. > > Dave From s_ralsten at yahoo.com Wed Apr 7 11:22:06 2010 From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 10:22:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] just a test Message-ID: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> haven't seen anything in days From cmccann at lwpb.com Wed Apr 7 12:20:40 2010 From: cmccann at lwpb.com (Cullen McCann) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 13:20:40 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] just a test In-Reply-To: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4419C83983D4FB47AADD6847090647333BE1BFE494@LWPB-EX1.LWPB.local> Hi Steve, I read you. Agree it has been quiet... Subject: [Tigers] just a test haven't seen anything in days _______________________________________________ From marcsmall at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 12:27:51 2010 From: marcsmall at comcast.net (Marc James Small) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 14:27:51 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] just a test In-Reply-To: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100407192742.EFD2D18764F@autox.team.net> At 01:22 PM 4/7/2010, Steve Ralsten wrote: >haven't seen anything in days Didn't we tell you that you had been purged? Ah, so much for the efficiency of Internet communications! Marc msmall at aya.yale.edu Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! From drjev at dccnet.com Wed Apr 7 13:13:28 2010 From: drjev at dccnet.com (Drjev) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 12:13:28 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) Subject: [Tigers] just a test References: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4419C83983D4FB47AADD6847090647333BE1BFE494@LWPB-EX1.LWPB.local> Message-ID: <4BBCD955.000001.01276@DIANE-72F68793C> Got it here too. Thinkin the same this morning. John -------Original Message------- From: Cullen McCann Date: 4/7/2010 11:58:25 AM To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list Subject: Re: [Tigers] just a test Hi Steve, I read you. Agree it has been quiet... Subject: [Tigers] just a test haven't seen anything in days _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team net/mailman/options/tigers/drjev at dccnet.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of stampa_girl_line_en.gif] From atwittsend at verizon.net Wed Apr 7 13:23:22 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 12:23:22 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] just a test References: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: >>> haven't seen anything in days<<< With the tax deadline rapidly approaching (USA) possibly our hands, brains and potentially our wallets are exhaust. Tom From slaifman at socal.rr.com Wed Apr 7 13:29:23 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 12:29:23 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] How to Build a REAL tiger! Message-ID: <4BBCDD13.9060303@socal.rr.com> Many thanks to Mark L. (CoolVT at AOL.com) for sending a private enclosure to a great movie, which I cannot enclose to the list. It shows an artist painting images on the backs of nude models. You cannot see a view the model's front, so it could be rated PG. They then "assemble" themselves to show a great image of a Tiger head - in 3D. (3.1 MB WMV attachment). If Mark has an internet link to this movie, I am sure many Tiger Owners would like to see it. No objectionable (to some) views. However, I do have a Great Bookmark showing a Tiger head in lenticular 3D. Bought it for $5 while waiting for a prescription to be filled. AND it is GRRRRAETE! There were plenty of others, such as all our Planets in 3D. The link to the Artist/image is: http://www.magneticbookmark.com/shop/SiteSpecific/magneticbookmark/Upload/Products/16020.jpg and: http://www.magneticbookmark.com/shop/SiteSpecific/magneticbookmark/Upload/Products/16023.jpg Very Entertaining. Much better to hang on your mirror than "Fuzzy Dice" Steve From m_dangelo at verizon.net Wed Apr 7 14:24:07 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 15:24:07 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Engine Installation Techniques. Re: just a test Message-ID: <4058965.229956.1270671847132.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net> From jimboynton at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 14:34:34 2010 From: jimboynton at comcast.net (Jim Boynton) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 16:34:34 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] speed bleeders Message-ID: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> Has anyone used or installed the speed bleeders that I have seen for sale on ebay? From fastsage at cox.net Wed Apr 7 15:14:12 2010 From: fastsage at cox.net (Steve Sage) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 14:14:12 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] speed bleeders In-Reply-To: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> References: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> Message-ID: <4BBCF5A4.7090002@cox.net> On 4/7/2010 1:34 PM, Jim Boynton wrote: > Has anyone used or installed the speed bleeders that I have seen for sale on > ebay? > Hello Jim: I haven't installed them on my brakes yet as I haven't had a need to bleed them yet. I have installed it on my clutch slave and it works great. The slave cylinder is usually difficult to get all the air out from, but the speed bleeder made it an easy job. Steve Sage E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514) Database version: 6.14730 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From mark.rense at ge.com Wed Apr 7 15:20:02 2010 From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:20:02 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Motif Badge Retention Message-ID: Anyone have issues with the re-pop motif badges (Sunbeam V-8) not staying on? I bought the badges, motifs and little clips from SS and have lost one badge with the other two being loose. The clips seem to open up and the plastic tangs just slide out. I am considering using a soldering iron to flatten the backs of the plastic tangs once installed, although this is not what I would consider ideal. Any suggestions? Bugz From achd73 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 7 15:50:57 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 14:50:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Motif Badge Retention In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <781311.58438.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Mark- They make a glue just for holdng trim, badges etc to the car. Im not 100% but I believe there is a type that can be removed without damaging the paint if removing an item becomes necessary. Im sure it is sold by different dealers and independent retailers as well. Perhaps a member with previous experience might add more information. TtT --- On Wed, 4/7/10, Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) wrote: From: Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) Subject: [Tigers] Motif Badge Retention To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, April 7, 2010, 4:20 PM Anyone have issues with the re-pop motif badges (Sunbeam V-8) not staying on? I bought the badges, motifs and little clips from SS and have lost one badge with the other two being loose. The clips seem to open up and the plastic tangs just slide out. I am considering using a soldering iron to flatten the backs of the plastic tangs once installed, although this is not what I would consider ideal. Any suggestions? Bugz _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From m_dangelo at verizon.net Wed Apr 7 15:55:46 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 17:55:46 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally On a related topic, has anyone used a motorcycle jack to remove and reinstall the cross member? I understand there is some difficulty in balancing it on a normal jack. Being two parallel flat surfaces on the motorcycle/ATV jack, it seems like it might make the job easier. Anyone? Thanks a lot! On 4/7/10 1:22 PM, "Steve Ralsten" wrote: > haven't seen anything in days > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From rfraser at bluefrog.com Wed Apr 7 16:08:45 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 18:08:45 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Motif Badge Retention In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <6A18FF8081824633A92DFA0EA4D7164A@ronpc1> Bugz The re-pop motif badge holders are plastic? Are the barrel clips plastic or metal? I like to remove those badges now an then for cleaning. I might try gorilla snot first; you know that weather-strip contact cement that's hard to get off your fingers. Maybe a tight brass tube over the plastic tangs would give a better grip. Hard to say without parts in hand. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd) Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:20 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Motif Badge Retention Anyone have issues with the re-pop motif badges (Sunbeam V-8) not staying on? I bought the badges, motifs and little clips from SS and have lost one badge with the other two being loose. The clips seem to open up and the plastic tangs just slide out. I am considering using a soldering iron to flatten the backs of the plastic tangs once installed, although this is not what I would consider ideal. Any suggestions? Bugz _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2794 - Release Date: 04/07/10 06:32:00 From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Wed Apr 7 16:55:53 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:55:53 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: References: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B0684025C3CE3@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Removing the engine out the top can be done, just barely, if you have stock valve covers and oil pan. If you have taller valve covers, aluminum heads, and/or a road race pan with kickouts, then the engine will not go out the top without removing the crossmember. Removing the engine out the top also requires a hoist with a more-than-average amount of reach, and you'll at some point have a 500 pound assembly dangling six or seven feet in the air, above your car. Lots of potential for damage and personal injury if anything should go even slightly wrong, and things could go from slightly wrong to very wrong in a heartbeat. To remove the engine and transmission from underneath, you need to raise the entire car off the ground. 12 to 15" jackstands will do for the rear axle, but in front you need to eventually have the car high enough that the engine assembly can go either underneath the front valence or out through the fenderwell opening (there is more clearance there). I've done mine twice out and in through the bottom. Tried out the top, once, but that failed due to the oversize oil pan. I usually support the rear of the car under the leaf spring perches on the rear axle. I jack up the front of the car and support it under the forward outside ends of the X frame under the car. I remove the front suspension with rack attached as a unit after removing the wheel. Some people do it with wheels attached but I find it more manageable without the extra mass attached. I use a 1x6 that spans across the crossmember, basically from one fulcrum pin to the other, to lower the crossmember after removing the attaching bolts, disconnecting the steering U-joint, and the brake line. With the crossmember out of the way, and the rad removed, I disconnect the exhaust and loosen the headers. Support the engine (hood removed) from above with the hoist, then remove the engine mounts and the transmission mount (support the transmission with a jack from underneath) and take off the headers. Remove the shift linkage from inside the car. Then the engine can be slid forward and up, to get the tailshaft out of the center of the X member, then lower the tail of the transmission, then everything goes back a little to get the nose of the engine clear of the radiator crossmember and you can set the engine on the floor. It's preferable to set the engine on a rolling cradle that can support its weight... a creeper isn't good enough. At this point I use the hoist to pick up the front of the car and raise it higher to reset the jackstands, and then I can get the engine out the side or front of the car. (and in the finest Haynes manual fashion:) Installation is the reverse of removal. Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO > Sent: April 7, 2010 3:56 PM > To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list > Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test > > Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or > information. > I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and > install > engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that > the > procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, > removing > the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then > hoisting the > engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty > doable. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 16:57:31 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:57:31 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: References: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > The workshop manual shows that the > procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, > removing > the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting > the > engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. > Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so > difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? Mauro... are you taking the pi$$? have you seen the picture n the WSM of the engine coming out the top of the car? Its like a cherry picker.. you have to life the car that high... for a point in case.. thats how you take the engine out of an alpine... use this link to see how easy that is.. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2475513130054462410ohkwjg http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2053145830054462410TCfGoq http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2465933670054462410XKISct then think of the size difference/firewall issues with the tiger. drop the front cross member and slide the bugger out. -- Regards Michael King From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Wed Apr 7 17:22:39 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 18:22:39 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: References: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B0684025C3CE3@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B0684025C3CF0@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> I run a chain from one crossmember bolt location (underneath the frame rail) to the corresponding crossmember bolt location on the other frame rail, and then use the hoist on the chain to pick up the car. The reason for doing this is that in the process of removing the engine from the car, it's not helpful if the car is jacked way up in the air... you end up doing about half the work from above, and the other half from below, so if the nose is 'way up there, it's just hard to do the from-the-top stuff. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: MAURO D'ANGELO [mailto:m_dangelo at verizon.net] > Sent: April 7, 2010 5:16 PM > To: Smit, Theo; Tiger email list > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a > test > > Theo, Thanks very much for the detailed explanation. I have two > questions. > First, where do you connect the hoist to the body to lift it? Second, > why > do you have to reset the jack stands? Thanks a lot. Mauro > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net Wed Apr 7 17:20:13 2010 From: sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net (David Sosna) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 16:20:13 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] speed bleeders In-Reply-To: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> References: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> Message-ID: <4BBD132D.70602@cox.net> Hi Jim: Can't remember if I had 'em on my Tiger, but I've used 'em on my Miata and on my Toyota Pickup for both brakes and clutch. I like 'em a lot. There is a caveat--they're sold with some goop already on the threads--and a tube (or somesuch) of additional goop. Presumably the thread sealant wears off with time and use of the bleeders. So far I haven't had a problem with it. I'd highly recommend the system. Best Regards David Sosna Tigerless but still lurking Jim Boynton wrote: > Has anyone used or installed the speed bleeders that I have seen for sale on > ebay? > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5008 (20100407) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net Wed Apr 7 17:35:26 2010 From: sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net (David Sosna) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 16:35:26 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BBD16BE.1050808@cox.net> Hi Mauro: Mostly, it's that the engine and transmission together are looooong. So you need a lot of room above the car for them to dangle. And without a high-bay working area, it's easier to pull it out the bottom. If you've got a high-bay area, I don't see it as much of a problem, but my garage is only 8' high, with a gyp-board ceiling (condo above the garage), so I pulled the engine out the bottom. Best Regards David Sosna MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > Why is doing it from the top so > difficult? > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5008 (20100407) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From shutchin at netjets.com Wed Apr 7 17:40:22 2010 From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 19:40:22 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D40896631A@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> When I did it I took it out the bottom. Wasn't bad at all. I used a strap that I wrapped around the cowling braces and lifted the body. Take lots of pictures along the way so you know how to put it back together. I placed a board on the jack when I removed the cross member. I seem to recall I left the wheels on it and just rolled it out from under the front of the car. The car is on stands at that point. Then you jack the engine and unbolt it and the tranny and slide the whole package out through the left front wheel well. Somewhere there was a step by step list on how to do it. I think the issue with taking it out the top is vertical lift clearance. Have fun. ;). Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft Office 860.292.1191 Mobile 843.290.2805 *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. From bomber44 at comcast.net Wed Apr 7 18:10:06 2010 From: bomber44 at comcast.net (Rob Guerra) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:10:06 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <93F8881A-3B7C-47A4-BBCF-91BE3DCCF984@comcast.net> a few years back I posted a link to an engine removal tech tip I wrote for the stoa newsletter (march 05). Here is a link to a copy of that newsletter http://tigerengineering.net/stoa/download.htm hope this helps On Apr 7, 2010, at 2:55 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. > I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install > engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the > procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing > the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the > engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. > Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so > difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I > understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both > front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that > out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the > transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not > have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the > weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to > the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of > the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where > and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands > going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and > where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back > under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the > only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't > use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally From m_dangelo at verizon.net Wed Apr 7 18:14:18 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 20:14:18 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger All Four Wheels Up? In-Reply-To: <6A18FF8081824633A92DFA0EA4D7164A@ronpc1> Message-ID: Maybe I've led a really sheltered life, but I have only ever had a car on jackstands one axle at a time (either front of the car or the rear). I think I read somewhere that you should not put both axles on stands at the same time. Is this true? Is this dangerous? Has anyone ever had a Tiger on four jackstands at the same time? Is that safe? If this is possible, what's the best way to do it? Just curious. Thanks. From choffman9 at cinci.rr.com Wed Apr 7 18:24:27 2010 From: choffman9 at cinci.rr.com (Curt) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 20:24:27 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test References: Message-ID: There are all kinds of articles written on this subject and I remember writing one in the 80s. I have done both and strongly favor the lower method. I've done the lower way about 5 times. The once I did the upper way it scared the bejeezus out of me. The from the top requires a lot of head room with the engine way up in the air to clear the car. The tranny is generally attached and it is a long piece to get up and over the body with no damage. The lower method keeps everything relatively low to the ground and can be done in a low ceiling garage. I hike up the body with a hoist attached to a chain bolted to the body with the cross member bolts (actually similar ones from a hardware store) screwed in from teh top into the same holes. I leave the wheels on the cross member and just roll out the cross member supported on a jack. A motorcycle jack would work well I assume. I have one now but have not used it. I always just used a floor jack, but I didn't have the MC jack at the time. Next time I'll try it. Curt Hoffman ----- Original Message ----- From: "MAURO D'ANGELO" To: "Steve Ralsten" ; "Tiger email list" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:55 PM Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test > Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or > information. > I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install > engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that > the > procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, > removing > the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting > the > engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. > Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so > difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I > understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or > both > front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that > out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the > transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do > not > have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the > weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all > to > the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out > of > the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where > and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack > stands > going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and > where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is > back > under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the > only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't > use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally > > On a related topic, has anyone used a motorcycle jack to remove and > reinstall the cross member? I understand there is some difficulty in > balancing it on a normal jack. Being two parallel flat surfaces on the > motorcycle/ATV jack, it seems like it might make the job easier. Anyone? > Thanks a lot! From m_dangelo at verizon.net Wed Apr 7 18:26:26 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 20:26:26 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: <93F8881A-3B7C-47A4-BBCF-91BE3DCCF984@comcast.net> Message-ID: Rob, Thanks. I saved a copy of that. In the article, you mention that you would explain re-installation in a later issue. Would it be possible to have a link to that article too? Thanks! Mauro On 4/7/10 8:10 PM, "Rob Guerra" wrote: > a few years back I posted a link to an engine removal tech tip I wrote for > the stoa newsletter (march 05). Here is a link to a copy of that newsletter > > http://tigerengineering.net/stoa/download.htm > > hope this helps > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 2:55 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > >> Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. >> I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install >> engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the >> procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing >> the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the >> engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. >> Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so >> difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I >> understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both >> front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that >> out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the >> transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not >> have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the >> weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to >> the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of >> the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where >> and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands >> going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and >> where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back >> under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the >> only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't >> use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally From kentb at qualcomm.com Wed Apr 7 18:54:47 2010 From: kentb at qualcomm.com (Baker, Kent) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:54:47 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Sheet Metal and Sunbeam Supreme Message-ID: <361AD790290A5C489B652911BA4180D30412B881AF@NASANEXMB16.na.qualcomm.com> Third time trying to get this posted - I wondered what happened to the list. I apologize for asking again, but the acid dip is done, and it is time to replace the floorboards and boot floor. The current ones are not horrible, but there is enough pin hole rust down in the bottom of the foot wells to justify replacing them. I have tried many resources for new replacement floorboards, but no luck finding a pair. If anyone has a last guess who I might contact, it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, come next week, I will have to have a shop make a pair using the old ones as a templates, and that is going to be pricey but they will do it. One other option is Sunbeam Supreme in the UK. They seem to have a selection of sheet metal and other Tiger parts. Has anyone used them before? Thanks, Kent Baker '66 MKIA San Diego From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 19:56:28 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 11:56:28 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Sheet Metal and Sunbeam Supreme In-Reply-To: <361AD790290A5C489B652911BA4180D30412B881AF@NASANEXMB16.na.qualcomm.com> References: <361AD790290A5C489B652911BA4180D30412B881AF@NASANEXMB16.na.qualcomm.com> Message-ID: i think there is a guy named willet? with an email of oneoffive or somethig liek that.. he posts stuff on ebay often and is on the CAT board. He seems to have a selection of panels in stock, there maybe some connection to rob martell.. or there was (i could be wrong) but he seemed to keep a selection of parts. I know of sources in australia.. but given our AU$ is high at the moment. might not help someone in the USA.. but if you wer interested i can speak t the guy with patterns here. Another option would be Jan Sevities from the SAOCA boards.. On 8 April 2010 10:54, Baker, Kent wrote: > Third time trying to get this posted - I wondered what happened to the > list. > > I apologize for asking again, but the acid dip is done, and it is time to > replace the floorboards and boot floor. The current ones are not horrible, > but there is enough pin hole rust down in the bottom of the foot wells to > justify replacing them. I have tried many resources for new replacement > floorboards, but no luck finding a pair. If anyone has a last guess who I > might contact, it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, come next week, > I > will have to have a shop make a pair using the old ones as a templates, and > that is going to be pricey but they will do it. > > One other option is Sunbeam Supreme in the UK. They seem to have a > selection > of sheet metal and other Tiger parts. Has anyone used them before? > > Thanks, > > Kent Baker > '66 MKIA > San Diego > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King From sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com Wed Apr 7 20:06:04 2010 From: sixtysixtiger at hotmail.com (Arden Bedell) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 20:06:04 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Sheet Metal and Sunbeam Supreme In-Reply-To: <361AD790290A5C489B652911BA4180D30412B881AF@NASANEXMB16.na.qualcomm.com> References: <361AD790290A5C489B652911BA4180D30412B881AF@NASANEXMB16.na.qualcomm.com> Message-ID: I've bought panels from them; a front valence and lower rear fender patch panels. They were good quality and the service was excellent, but shipping from the U.K. is spendy. However, in the absence of alternatives, you have to go where you have to. -- Arden From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Wed Apr 7 20:08:06 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:08:06 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: References: <93F8881A-3B7C-47A4-BBCF-91BE3DCCF984@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000b01cad6c0$54aba380$fe02ea80$@rr.com> Has anyone tried putting weight in the trunk to help with lifting the body over the engine? I would think that 300lbs would do the trick and then you would not require to lift the front. Duke B382002037 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:26 PM To: Rob Guerra Cc: Tiger email list Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Rob, Thanks. I saved a copy of that. In the article, you mention that you would explain re-installation in a later issue. Would it be possible to have a link to that article too? Thanks! Mauro On 4/7/10 8:10 PM, "Rob Guerra" wrote: > a few years back I posted a link to an engine removal tech tip I wrote for > the stoa newsletter (march 05). Here is a link to a copy of that newsletter > > http://tigerengineering.net/stoa/download.htm > > hope this helps > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 2:55 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > >> Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. >> I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install >> engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the >> procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing >> the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the >> engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. >> Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so >> difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I >> understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both >> front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that >> out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the >> transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not >> have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the >> weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to >> the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of >> the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where >> and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands >> going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and >> where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back >> under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the >> only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't >> use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com From choffman9 at cinci.rr.com Wed Apr 7 20:12:01 2010 From: choffman9 at cinci.rr.com (Curt) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:12:01 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger All Four Wheels Up? References: Message-ID: My Tigers (I've had 3) have spent most of their lives up on stands with both front and rear on jack stands. It's the only way to go to work under cars. Can't imagine what would be any different than one axle at a time in terms of safety. Curt Hoffman ----- Original Message ----- From: "MAURO D'ANGELO" To: ; "'Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)'" ; Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:14 PM Subject: [Tigers] Tiger All Four Wheels Up? > Maybe I've led a really sheltered life, but I have only ever had a car on > jackstands one axle at a time (either front of the car or the rear). I > think I read somewhere that you should not put both axles on stands at the > same time. Is this true? Is this dangerous? Has anyone ever had a Tiger > on four jackstands at the same time? Is that safe? If this is possible, > what's the best way to do it? Just curious. Thanks. From gabbardalex at att.net Wed Apr 7 20:17:54 2010 From: gabbardalex at att.net (gabbardalex at att.net) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 02:17:54 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: References: <93F8881A-3B7C-47A4-BBCF-91BE3DCCF984@comcast.net> Message-ID: <040820100217.20572.4BBD3CCF000DC97C0000505C22243323629B0A02D29B9B0EBF980A040E0B9D0E0D0D0E09@att.net> The easy way: engine removal: 1. block up engine & trans as the car sits; use U shaped wood buck around oil pan. 2. disconnect drive shaft, trans & engine mounts, all lines, radiator hoses, exhaust-to-body couplings, etc 3. unbolt cross member 4. three strong guys lift front of car over engine, roll back done it! takes about 30 minutes engine installation: reverse of above done it! The easy way Alex Gabbard own 2 Tigers, 1 Alpine for about 40 years; parted out 1 Tiger, 1 Alpine -------------- Original message from MAURO D'ANGELO : -------------- > Rob, > > Thanks. I saved a copy of that. In the article, you mention that you would > explain re-installation in a later issue. Would it be possible to have a > link to that article too? Thanks! Mauro > > > On 4/7/10 8:10 PM, "Rob Guerra" wrote: > > > a few years back I posted a link to an engine removal tech tip I wrote for > > the stoa newsletter (march 05). Here is a link to a copy of that newsletter > > > > http://tigerengineering.net/stoa/download.htm > > > > hope this helps > > > > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 2:55 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > > > >> Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. > >> I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install > >> engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the > >> procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing > >> the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the > >> engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. > >> Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so > >> difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I > >> understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both > >> front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that > >> out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the > >> transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not > >> have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the > >> weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to > >> the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of > >> the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where > >> and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands > >> going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and > >> where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back > >> under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the > >> only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't > >> use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gabbardalex at att.net From MWood24020 at aol.com Wed Apr 7 20:17:49 2010 From: MWood24020 at aol.com (MWood24020 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 22:17:49 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Message-ID: <3c6a6.3e818ea9.38ee96cd@aol.com> Not to single out Mauro, who is asking a question all of us who've pulled the drivetrain out of our Tigers have contemplated, but isn't all of this type of stuff related to common procedures archived somewhere and (fairly) readily available? Seems that it would make sense, if it isn't being done already. btw, Mauro, putting a car on four jack stands, in and of itself is not dangerous. But, in the case of the Tiger, the balance point moves so far back after removing the engine and ancillary items that you will have a situation where you need to be careful...you literally can elevate the front end with one finger, if the rear jack stands are still under the rear axle. :-) In a message dated 4/7/2010 6:17:26 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, m_dangelo at verizon.net writes: Rob, Thanks. I saved a copy of that. In the article, you mention that you would explain re-installation in a later issue. Would it be possible to have a link to that article too? Thanks! Mauro On 4/7/10 8:10 PM, "Rob Guerra" wrote: > a few years back I posted a link to an engine removal tech tip I wrote for > the stoa newsletter (march 05). Here is a link to a copy of that newsletter > > http://tigerengineering.net/stoa/download.htm > > hope this helps > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 2:55 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > >> Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. >> I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install >> engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the >> procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing >> the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the >> engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. >> Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so >> difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I >> understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both >> front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that >> out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the >> transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not >> have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the >> weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to >> the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of >> the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where >> and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands >> going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and >> where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back >> under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the >> only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't >> use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mwood24020 at aol.com From jeffers at mwt.net Wed Apr 7 20:42:59 2010 From: jeffers at mwt.net (Jeffers) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 21:42:59 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] All Four Wheels Up? Message-ID: <4BBD42B3.2020106@mwt.net> Mauro I set this email out to to 2 list members about 2 years ago. I'll resend it to you so you can see the pictures. Tom It appears there are as many different ways to remove the engine as people who have done it. I have done this twice in the last year or so and I can share some pictures. Put the car up on jack stands about 16 to 20 inches and keep it level. See pictures. I have found that a piece of plywood about 20 inches square will balance the front cross member and still allow you to remove and replace the bolts. The balance point is easier to find with the cross member out so have several people helping when you remove it the first time. Again see pictures. When I lowered the engine and transmission to the ground I put it on 2 car dollys. See picture. I had to put a block of wood on the dolly under the oilpan to keep the front of the pan off the floor. You want it as close to the floor as possible and able to swivel 90 degrees to remove it from the wheel well. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100_1248.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100_1249.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100_1252.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_3536.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_3537.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of S4300129.JPG] From BuckTrippel at Verizon.net Wed Apr 7 21:04:02 2010 From: BuckTrippel at Verizon.net (Buck Trippel) Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2010 20:04:02 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: <000b01cad6c0$54aba380$fe02ea80$@rr.com> References: <93F8881A-3B7C-47A4-BBCF-91BE3DCCF984@comcast.net> <000b01cad6c0$54aba380$fe02ea80$@rr.com> Message-ID: <5A1666951B574DB1BEBD7F899766C2B9@BucksLaptop> Duke, That's Dan Walters' standard m.o. I think 200lbs will do it. Dan removes Tiger engines by himself in a little over 2 hours. No cherry picker - just a scissors jack and his custom engine dolly. The scissor is mainly used under the X-frame. Buck ----- Original Message ----- From: "wsamouce" To: "'MAURO D'ANGELO'" ; "'Rob Guerra'" Cc: "'Tiger email list'" Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:08 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques > Has anyone tried putting weight in the trunk to help with lifting the body > over the engine? I would think that 300lbs would do the trick and then > you > would not require to lift the front. > > Duke > B382002037 > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:26 PM > To: Rob Guerra > Cc: Tiger email list > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques > > Rob, > > Thanks. I saved a copy of that. In the article, you mention that you > would > explain re-installation in a later issue. Would it be possible to have a > link to that article too? Thanks! Mauro > > > On 4/7/10 8:10 PM, "Rob Guerra" wrote: > >> a few years back I posted a link to an engine removal tech tip I wrote > for >> the stoa newsletter (march 05). Here is a link to a copy of that > newsletter >> >> http://tigerengineering.net/stoa/download.htm >> >> hope this helps >> >> >> On Apr 7, 2010, at 2:55 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: >> >>> Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or > information. >>> I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and > install >>> engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that > the >>> procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, > removing >>> the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting > the >>> engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty >>> doable. >>> Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top > so >>> difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, > I >>> understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or > both >>> front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With > that >>> out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the >>> transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do > not >>> have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift >>> the >>> weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it >>> all > to >>> the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough >>> out > of >>> the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? >>> Where >>> and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack > stands >>> going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and >>> where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is > back >>> under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the >>> only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you >>> can't >>> use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/bucktrippel at verizon.net From rspontelli at earthlink.net Wed Apr 7 21:09:43 2010 From: rspontelli at earthlink.net (Ramon Spontelli) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 20:09:43 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <> Geez people! What's wrong with the old-fashioned/Missionary Position? From above? Just leave the tranny and bell housing in the car. If you want or need the tranny out too, then it's a snap with the engine out. Ramon From rfraser at bluefrog.com Wed Apr 7 22:22:02 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 00:22:02 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3C3DE812936444B4B322145CA963D6E4@ronpc1> Mauro The manual shows an engine picker that you might as well call a crane and you will need about 20' of clear head room to pull it out the top. Not impossible but maybe depending on your garage. Wow, it has been a very long time since I pulled the engine/ tran out the bottom. I removed the crossmember, exhaust, carb, valve covers, radiator, fan, pulleys, water pump, generator, oil filter system and bumpers. I had a very low dolly with a wood engine cradle. I lowered the body and engine onto the dolly and disconnected the engine mounts. A friend of mine happened to stop by at this time and we picked the front of the body up, pivoting on the rear wheels, roll it back off the engine. I reversed this procedure to install the engine. Use every convenience you have on hand to make the engine removal and installation as painless as possible. Ron -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:56 PM To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally On a related topic, has anyone used a motorcycle jack to remove and reinstall the cross member? I understand there is some difficulty in balancing it on a normal jack. Being two parallel flat surfaces on the motorcycle/ATV jack, it seems like it might make the job easier. Anyone? Thanks a lot! From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 22:29:54 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 14:29:54 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: <5A1666951B574DB1BEBD7F899766C2B9@BucksLaptop> References: <93F8881A-3B7C-47A4-BBCF-91BE3DCCF984@comcast.net> <000b01cad6c0$54aba380$fe02ea80$@rr.com> <5A1666951B574DB1BEBD7F899766C2B9@BucksLaptop> Message-ID: On 8 April 2010 13:04, Buck Trippel wrote: > Duke, > > That's Dan Walters' standard m.o. I think 200lbs will do it. > > Dan removes Tiger engines by himself in a little over 2 hours. > No cherry picker - just a scissors jack and his custom engine dolly. > The scissor is mainly used under the X-frame. > > Buck > I think there was a pictorial review of the *"down and out"* method in the CAT newsletter last year -- Regards Michael King From rfraser at bluefrog.com Wed Apr 7 22:38:12 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 00:38:12 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger All Four Wheels Up? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0B1EE24C4EAF487EAE02115A71CB0872@ronpc1> Mauro It can be dangerous to have a vehicle on 2 or 4 jack stands. It totally depends on how and where you place the jack stands. You must have sufficient weight on each jack so the vehicle does not rock. You must also have good jack stands. I have 4 that are rated at 5000 lbs each. I will not even consider some of the sheet metal jack stands I have seen on the market. Yes I have had the Tiger up on 4 jack stands. You simply have to be safety conscious when you do this. I also keep my 2 3/4 ton floor jack raised to a lifting point, just in case something slips. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: MAURO D'ANGELO [mailto:m_dangelo at verizon.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:14 PM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; 'Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Tiger All Four Wheels Up? Maybe I've led a really sheltered life, but I have only ever had a car on jackstands one axle at a time (either front of the car or the rear). I think I read somewhere that you should not put both axles on stands at the same time. Is this true? Is this dangerous? Has anyone ever had a Tiger on four jackstands at the same time? Is that safe? If this is possible, what's the best way to do it? Just curious. Thanks. No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2794 - Release Date: 04/07/10 06:32:00 From mk1a67 at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 22:54:06 2010 From: mk1a67 at gmail.com (Cliff Alexander) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:54:06 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] speed bleeders In-Reply-To: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> References: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> Message-ID: I recently put one on the rear brakes, as I had the axle out to install a posi, and found that it worked great. I'm waiting to install the fronts until needed. I bought a set manufactured by Russell from Summit Racing. As you probably already know the threat size is 3/8" X 24. Cliff On Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 1:34 PM, Jim Boynton wrote: > Has anyone used or installed the speed bleeders that I have seen for sale > on > ebay? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mk1a67 at gmail.com From mk1a67 at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 22:59:00 2010 From: mk1a67 at gmail.com (Cliff Alexander) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 21:59:00 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Fwd: Rootes Comps Department In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All-- I'm resending this because I didn't see it in my messages. Sorry if it's a duplicate. Cliff ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Cliff Alexander Date: Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 4:32 PM Subject: Rootes Comps Department To: Tiger List All-- I picked up a copy of the March 2010 Classic & Sports Car magazine and found a nice article titled The Garrads of Humber Road. It has quite a few vintage pictures and an interview with the family. Cliff From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 23:23:31 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:23:31 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger All Four Wheels Up? In-Reply-To: <0B1EE24C4EAF487EAE02115A71CB0872@ronpc1> References: <0B1EE24C4EAF487EAE02115A71CB0872@ronpc1> Message-ID: > Yes I have had the Tiger up on 4 jack stands. You simply have to be > safety conscious when you do this. I also keep my 2 3/4 ton floor jack > raised to a lifting point, just in case something slips. > > unless you have the cars wheels off ramps can be used.. i have had the car on all 4 with ramps.. if you have it on axel stands, wheels off.. place some old tyres on their side under the car so if it falls it might give you a chance. -- Regards Michael King From atwittsend at verizon.net Thu Apr 8 01:29:43 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 00:29:43 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger All Four Wheels Up? References: <0B1EE24C4EAF487EAE02115A71CB0872@ronpc1> Message-ID: <65980EA2545A446C813359C93DE1EF2D@student2> >>> Has anyone ever had a Tiger on four jackstands at the same time?<<< Six years and counting. It makes a great space to store all the parts I never have the time or money to install. FYI, I had my Turbo Coupe up on two jackstands (rearend dropped and lying on the ground) during the Northridge earthquake and its numerous aftershocks. I'm about 15 miles from the epicenter and it never toppeled. Jackstands - like real estate, location, Location, LOCATION. Tom From m_dangelo at verizon.net Thu Apr 8 04:47:38 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 06:47:38 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Here is the Solution to Disappearing Message Content! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Cliff, You may remember I was having the problem that none of my messages were showing up (to the point that some wise guy said something like he's heard of being a man a few words but I was being ridiculous). I researched the problem and HERE IS THE SOLUTION: USE ONLY PLAIN TEXT! If you are using Outlook or Entourage, go to format and remove any HTML formatting. I use Verizon and, when using web mail services, I think that defaults to HTML formatting too. In fact, I sent a message yesterday from web mail and it did not show up. I hope that helps everyone who's having this problem. It stinks when you spend a lot of time writing deep thoughts and they never show up. I suppose it could be viewed as a form of therapy, but it's still frustrating! Maybe they should update and upgrade the message server to accept HTML formatting. Until then, just do not use anything but plain text in your messages. Mauro On 4/8/10 12:59 AM, "Cliff Alexander" wrote: > All-- I'm resending this because I didn't see it in my messages. Sorry if > it's a duplicate. > Cliff > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Cliff Alexander > Date: Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 4:32 PM > Subject: Rootes Comps Department > To: Tiger List > > > All-- I picked up a copy of the March 2010 Classic & Sports Car magazine > and found a nice article titled The Garrads of Humber Road. It has quite a > few vintage pictures and an interview with the family. > Cliff > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From rande at thecia.net Thu Apr 8 05:26:21 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 07:26:21 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] is userlist doa, and jack stands Message-ID: <4bbdbd5d.2af0.0@thecia.net> 1/ If you thought the list was dead yesterday, what do you think this morning? 57 postings overnight for me, almost all Tiger folks.It's working. 2/ Four jack stands. For me, that's most of the time. Two just in front of the rear lower valance about four feet apart. Two in front on the flat area just behind where the wheel wells are, on each side. Drivetrain is out, crossmember, suspension/wheels and complete rear axle still on car. I only take it down when I have to reposition the car to move around stuff in front of it. For safety reasons, I'll add support from a floor jack on the end I'm working underneath if I'm hammering anything. And my stands are cast iron. I don't have a hoist, and I like the ground clearance I get from the stands when I'm trying to save time by having the stands already tested and in place. From CoolVT at aol.com Thu Apr 8 06:26:15 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:26:15 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Message-ID: <117fd.3c971a34.38ef2567@aol.com> LOL, it takes me 30 minutes to disconnect the hoses and pull my radiator out. Mark In a message dated 4/7/2010 10:51:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, gabbardalex at att.net writes: The easy way: engine removal: 1. block up engine & trans as the car sits; use U shaped wood buck around oil pan. 2. disconnect drive shaft, trans & engine mounts, all lines, radiator hoses, exhaust-to-body couplings, etc 3. unbolt cross member 4. three strong guys lift front of car over engine, roll back done it! takes about 30 minutes engine installation: reverse of above done it! The easy way Alex Gabbard own 2 Tigers, 1 Alpine for about 40 years; parted out 1 Tiger, 1 Alpine -------------- Original message from MAURO D'ANGELO : -------------- > Rob, > > Thanks. I saved a copy of that. In the article, you mention that you would > explain re-installation in a later issue. Would it be possible to have a > link to that article too? Thanks! Mauro > > > On 4/7/10 8:10 PM, "Rob Guerra" wrote: > > > a few years back I posted a link to an engine removal tech tip I wrote for > > the stoa newsletter (march 05). Here is a link to a copy of that newsletter > > > > http://tigerengineering.net/stoa/download.htm > > > > hope this helps > > > > > > On Apr 7, 2010, at 2:55 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > > > >> Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. > >> I noted that lots of people say that the easiest way to remove and install > >> engines into Tigers is from the bottom. The workshop manual shows that the > >> procedure is basically putting the front of the car on jack stands, removing > >> the hood and disconnecting a bunch of ancillary parts, and then hoisting the > >> engine together with the transmission from the top. Seems pretty doable. > >> Obviously, there are things I don't know. Why is doing it from the top so > >> difficult? What are the negatives to the factory way? From the bottom, I > >> understand the car should be put up on jack stands (only the front, or both > >> front and back?), and the front cross member should be removed. With that > >> out of the way, the engine should drop onto a dolly(s) with the > >> transmission. In theory, I understand this, but there are details I do not > >> have. First, I am assuming that a hoist will still be needed to lift the > >> weight of the engine to unbolt the engine mounts and then to lower it all to > >> the dolly. Is this correct? Second, how do you lift the body enough out of > >> the way to be able to roll the engine/tranny out from under there? Where > >> and how do you connect the hoist? Or...is having the car up on jack stands > >> going to give enough clearance? How tall should the jack stands be and > >> where should they be placed, exactly? Third, when the engine/tranny is back > >> under the car (having lifted the car again to get enough clearance), the > >> only way to lift it up is with an engine hoist, right? I mean, you can't > >> use a jack to lift the engine off the dolly, can you? Finally > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/gabbardalex at att.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From mark.rense at ge.com Thu Apr 8 06:39:41 2010 From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:39:41 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: References: <864866.15596.qm@web114102.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mauro, I just removed the engine from one of my cars two weeks ago in preparation for the body shop. You really need to search all the Sunbeam sites, I amassed quite a few articles which I then compiled into a collection of wisdom. The short answer here is that I followed the bottom-out technique as per Theo's suggestions. It took me about four hours including re-installing the crossmember, I was by myself and I took my time to document. I used a 2 ton hoist and a transmission jack. The transmission jack is also very handy for crossmember removal, as you can strap it on to keep it from rotating as you unbolt it from the chassis. I set the engine down onto a low furniture moving dolly, ran a chain between the crossmember bolts, hoisted the body up and wheeled the engine/tranny straight out. Bugz -----Original Message----- From: MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:56 PM To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. From rfraser at bluefrog.com Thu Apr 8 07:13:52 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 09:13:52 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] is userlist doa, and jack stands In-Reply-To: <4bbdbd5d.2af0.0@thecia.net> Message-ID: <5B76581825414F71A1B7C958CAF76C62@ronpc1> Rande The key word here is safety. Always be safety conscious when you jack up any vehicle. I know I have been in a hurry with this at times. I've had floor jacks slip and I've been under cars when I noticed that a jack stand is leaning at an angle. Time to stop and reset the jack stands. Always think safety and work safely and use heavy duty jack stands and equipment. The life or limb you save might just be your own. For the most part I'm working alone and if anything went really wrong I probably would not be found in time. I therefore work as safely as I can, use good equipment and good common sense whenever I'm under a vehicle. Safety first and always Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rande Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:26 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] is userlist doa, and jack stands 1/ If you thought the list was dead yesterday, what do you think this morning? 57 postings overnight for me, almost all Tiger folks.It's working. 2/ Four jack stands. For me, that's most of the time. Two just in front of the rear lower valance about four feet apart. Two in front on the flat area just behind where the wheel wells are, on each side. Drivetrain is out, crossmember, suspension/wheels and complete rear axle still on car. I only take it down when I have to reposition the car to move around stuff in front of it. For safety reasons, I'll add support from a floor jack on the end I'm working underneath if I'm hammering anything. And my stands are cast iron. I don't have a hoist, and I like the ground clearance I get from the stands when I'm trying to save time by having the stands already tested and in place. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2796 - Release Date: 04/07/10 06:32:00 From CoolVT at aol.com Thu Apr 8 07:45:56 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 09:45:56 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test Message-ID: <1619f.5a6f6bac.38ef3814@aol.com> With the talk of engine dollies and the like, I might suggest that you build one or more of your own. If you ever hit flea markets look for dolly wheels with grease fittings. With fittings they will normally have bearings and will have a capacity of around 500 lb . per wheel. Nail/screw 3 pcs. of 1/2" plywood together and attach wheels (good place to use up your scrap plywood). You will have a dolly that will support any engine/transmission or support the front of your Tiger when the crossmember is removed. Build it longer if you want and it can even be used to support the engine and transmission. For an engine support I used 2x6" pcs of wood measured to fit the rim of the oil pan and mounted these to 1'2" plywood and then screwed that contraption to the above mentioned dolly. When finished with the engine, I unscrewed the contraption and had the dolly for other uses. Mark L In a message dated 4/8/2010 9:00:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mark.rense at ge.com writes: Mauro, I just removed the engine from one of my cars two weeks ago in preparation for the body shop. You really need to search all the Sunbeam sites, I amassed quite a few articles which I then compiled into a collection of wisdom. The short answer here is that I followed the bottom-out technique as per Theo's suggestions. It took me about four hours including re-installing the crossmember, I was by myself and I took my time to document. I used a 2 ton hoist and a transmission jack. The transmission jack is also very handy for crossmember removal, as you can strap it on to keep it from rotating as you unbolt it from the chassis. I set the engine down onto a low furniture moving dolly, ran a chain between the crossmember bolts, hoisted the body up and wheeled the engine/tranny straight out. Bugz -----Original Message----- From: MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:56 PM To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From cars at wt-inc.com Thu Apr 8 08:35:05 2010 From: cars at wt-inc.com (Lynn Wall) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 07:35:05 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: <1619f.5a6f6bac.38ef3814@aol.com> References: <1619f.5a6f6bac.38ef3814@aol.com> Message-ID: <007c01cad728$af0a1e20$0d1e5a60$@com> I could not agree more. I made a dolly for the crossmember. Best idea I have ever had since the center of gravity is inconveniently located in mid air. This can be made fairly high. I even added a centering "socket" for my jack. I just roll the jack in place and lift. Second best idea I had was to make a dolly for the engine. Make this one as low as possible so that you need to lift the car as little as possible. This is also a great work platform depending on what you are working on. I made mine stout enough to serve as a "run-in" stand for breaking in my motors before installing in the car. It paid for itself when I discovered the leaky rear main before I installed it in the car. The couple of hours required to make these two items will save you may more in my opinion. Good luck and keep some bandages close by. Lynn -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CoolVT at aol.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 6:46 AM To: mark.rense at ge.com; m_dangelo at verizon.net; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test With the talk of engine dollies and the like, I might suggest that you build one or more of your own. If you ever hit flea markets look for dolly wheels with grease fittings. With fittings they will normally have bearings and will have a capacity of around 500 lb . per wheel. Nail/screw 3 pcs. of 1/2" plywood together and attach wheels (good place to use up your scrap plywood). You will have a dolly that will support any engine/transmission or support the front of your Tiger when the crossmember is removed. Build it longer if you want and it can even be used to support the engine and transmission. For an engine support I used 2x6" pcs of wood measured to fit the rim of the oil pan and mounted these to 1'2" plywood and then screwed that contraption to the above mentioned dolly. When finished with the engine, I unscrewed the contraption and had the dolly for other uses. Mark L In a message dated 4/8/2010 9:00:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mark.rense at ge.com writes: Mauro, I just removed the engine from one of my cars two weeks ago in preparation for the body shop. You really need to search all the Sunbeam sites, I amassed quite a few articles which I then compiled into a collection of wisdom. The short answer here is that I followed the bottom-out technique as per Theo's suggestions. It took me about four hours including re-installing the crossmember, I was by myself and I took my time to document. I used a 2 ton hoist and a transmission jack. The transmission jack is also very handy for crossmember removal, as you can strap it on to keep it from rotating as you unbolt it from the chassis. I set the engine down onto a low furniture moving dolly, ran a chain between the crossmember bolts, hoisted the body up and wheeled the engine/tranny straight out. Bugz -----Original Message----- From: MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:56 PM To: Steve Ralsten; Tiger email list Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test Well, Steve, you asked for it! I am looking for advice and/or information. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cars at wt-inc.com From Carmods at aol.com Thu Apr 8 08:35:50 2010 From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 10:35:50 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Message-ID: <21aca.5242a03.38ef43c6@aol.com> Pulling an engine from a Tiger is like a religion. Once someone excepts and practices it a certain way, it generally becomes the only way. I am not trying to convert anyone, just explain why I do it from the top. I pretty much follow the Manual procedure except I don't remove the steering rack or washer bottle. You need the following; * The ability to jack the car up temporarily 2 feet high in the front and drop it after the tailshaft clears the tunnel. * A chain-fall with a hook that will go at least 6 ft off the ground. * A short lifting sling. * A come-a-long to level the engine once it clears the tunnel and is above the radiator support. .Here are some of the reasons why I pull from the top * I don't have to remove and reinstall the wheels. * I don't have to remove and reinstall the front crossmember. * I don't have to remove, then reinstall the steering column and realign the wheels. * I don't have to disconnect brake lines and then have to connect and bleed them. * I only need to disconnect and tie up the fuel line. * After the engine is out I can safely roll, steer and stop the car on all four of its wheels out of the way anytime I want without jacks or blocks. * I don't have to lift and roll the freshly restored body around without front wheels and risk dropping a it. This has happened in our family! * I can do the whole job by myself without help. John Logan From todbrown at roadrunner.com Thu Apr 8 09:47:47 2010 From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 11:47:47 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Jack Stands, etc. Message-ID: <4BBDFAA3.9000000@roadrunner.com> There have been times when I have had my Tiger up on four jack stands. As someone else said, it is all about location, location, location and keeping it level. If you take a wheel off, put it under the car. Better the car lands on the wheel than your head. Just be careful. Someone on the list once suggested using two standard Sunbeam jacks to lift the end of the car. DO NOT TRY THIS! The channels into which the jacks slide can easily be rotated, causing the car to come crashing down. I once, long ago, thought this would be a clever way to get one end of the car off the ground. I don't know what I was thinking. Luckily, all it cost was some extra detergent to wash my underwear. It is always best to use a sturdy floor jack and jack stands. I have a two car garage which is oversized, so I can squeeze three cars in it (during the Maine winter, which, as everyone knows, is 9 months long) if I put the Tiger in crosswise (and the GTI longitudinally). To do that, I have acquired a set of dollies and put them under the Tiger's wheels. I can, with some effort, move the Tiger around on the dollies. It also gets the Tiger up in the air enough so I can slide under a ways without having to put it up on stands. Very convenient for doing stuff underneath during the long winter days and nights. I haven't tried it, but having the car on the dollies might make it a bit easier to take the engine and gearbox out the bottom. I have also seen various designs for home-made engine dollies, often made from 2 x 6's and plywood. They work fine. The wheels off super market carts are ideal. In Maine, you can often liberate the remains of a shopping cart from the snow bank after the plow has cleared the parking lot at WalMart or Home Depot, ;>) Tod B382002384LRXFE From patrick at patmania.ch Thu Apr 8 12:42:44 2010 From: patrick at patmania.ch (Patrick) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 20:42:44 +0200 Subject: [Tigers] Front axle In-Reply-To: <4BBDFAA3.9000000@roadrunner.com> References: <4BBDFAA3.9000000@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <009401cad74b$4782bd70$d6883850$@ch> Hi gang This is probably a rather unusual question that I have. A friend of mine had a accident with his tiger and needed a new front axle. Since I had one left I gave it away. Now he asked me how much I ask for it. I have no idea, that's why I'm asking you guys. How much can I ask for??? Thanks patrick From atwittsend at verizon.net Thu Apr 8 13:15:25 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 12:15:25 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test References: <1619f.5a6f6bac.38ef3814@aol.com> Message-ID: <69070F4774984F28BE17CAE8B65C7192@student2> Years ago I was at Smitty's to pick up my Tiger. He had welded a contraption that bolted to the front end of a Tiger that had the engine, trans and crossmember out. It was basically 1/2" or 3/4" square tubing with about 3" caster wheels attached. It sure looked funny, but the car moved around like it was a shopping cart. David Sosna, I think you know what I'm talking about. It sure saves the trouble of putting the crossmember back in just to move the car about. Tom From Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com Thu Apr 8 13:22:04 2010 From: Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com (Paul.Tonizzo at sybase.com) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 15:22:04 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Fw: oil pipe adapter? - correction Message-ID: To correct my note from Mar 23: the Tiger remote oil pipes attach to the block adapter with INVERTED FLARE fittings not BSPP. I was able to source them locally. Just needed to talk to the right person. :') Paul On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 9:17 AM, wrote: Hi Gents, The Tiger remote oil pipe attaches to the block adapter with BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) fittings. I want to use the OEM block adapter because my old CAT headers are 1" from the block. Does anyone have a source for an adapter to change this to a NPT or dash8 which is common today? thanks, Paul From slaifman at socal.rr.com Thu Apr 8 13:42:46 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 12:42:46 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Here is the Solution to Disappearing Message Content! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BBE31B6.8050901@socal.rr.com> Mauro, There is yet another option. I use "Thunderbird" (free from Mozilla), and it allows sending in "Plain Text", "HTML", or both as an option. I usually use "Both" if I am sending a message to the List and also direct e-mail. Works fine. :-) Steve MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > Cliff, > > You may remember I was having the problem that none of my messages were > showing up (to the point that some wise guy said something like he's heard > of being a man a few words but I was being ridiculous). I researched the > problem and HERE IS THE SOLUTION: > > USE ONLY PLAIN TEXT! > > If you are using Outlook or Entourage, go to format and remove any HTML > formatting. I use Verizon and, when using web mail services, I think that > defaults to HTML formatting too. In fact, I sent a message yesterday from > web mail and it did not show up. > > I hope that helps everyone who's having this problem. It stinks when you > spend a lot of time writing deep thoughts and they never show up. I suppose > it could be viewed as a form of therapy, but it's still frustrating! Maybe > they should update and upgrade the message server to accept HTML formatting. > Until then, just do not use anything but plain text in your messages. > > Mauro From atwittsend at verizon.net Thu Apr 8 14:41:32 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 13:41:32 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Front axle References: <4BBDFAA3.9000000@roadrunner.com> <009401cad74b$4782bd70$d6883850$@ch> Message-ID: A few years back I got a complete set of (two each) spindles (front axle as you call it), rotor/hubs, calipers, backing plates and wheel bearings for $80. All I needed at the time was one spindle, but the "package" was all I could find. Shortly there after I found another spindle for $25. I also recall someone offering me a single spindle for $100. So, quite a broad range ($25-$100). How good of a friend is it you have??? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick" To: Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:42 AM Subject: [Tigers] Front axle > Hi gang > > This is probably a rather unusual question that I have. A friend of mine > had > a accident with his tiger and needed a new front axle. Since I had one > left > I gave it away. Now he asked me how much I ask for it. I have no idea, > that's why I'm asking you guys. > > How much can I ask for??? > > Thanks > > patrick > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2798 - Release Date: 04/08/10 06:32:00 From wseay at embarqmail.com Thu Apr 8 14:52:56 2010 From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 16:52:56 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] speed bleeders References: <002c01cad691$bc2a6f20$347f4d60$@net> Message-ID: Jim, I got a set of speed bleeders from the guy on ebay. According to him, you need three flavors of bleeders: one for front, one for rear, and one for clutch. They all have the same thread on them and I'm sure Girling had only one P/N for all. The ebay guy recognizes that you only need one bleeder for the rear, so a set for the car would be 2 front, 1 rear, 1, clutch. The set that he sent me included two bleeders for the rear instead of just one. That was fortunate because I found that the bleeders he supplied for the rear worked better on the front. The front bleeders work fine in the rear, and I haven't installed a bleeder for the clutch yet. The bleeders that he supplied for front were longer than those for the rear - don't know why. The long bleeders have a clearance problem, interfereing with the hose fitting on the caliper assembly. The shorter (for rear) bleeders had less of a clearance problem. I still found that I had to use an open-end wrench for the front bleeders because there was no clearance for a normal tubing wrench. All that said, the bleeders worked great after I did my front/rear swap. I also found it useful to temporarily install a bleader on the output side of the brake servo to bleed the servo. Will Seay ____________________ wseay at embarqmail.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Boynton" To: "Tigers " Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:34 PM Subject: [Tigers] speed bleeders > Has anyone used or installed the speed bleeders that I have seen for sale > on > ebay? > _______________________________________________ From sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net Thu Apr 8 15:03:47 2010 From: sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net (David Sosna) Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2010 14:03:47 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques Re: just a test In-Reply-To: <69070F4774984F28BE17CAE8B65C7192@student2> References: <1619f.5a6f6bac.38ef3814@aol.com> <69070F4774984F28BE17CAE8B65C7192@student2> Message-ID: <4BBE44B3.30403@cox.net> Hi Tom: I do. Don't know if I have any pictures around though. Had itty-bitty wheels--Okay for rolling around the shop, but probably not so good for asphalt. A lot to go through for a one-time deal (well, maybe not so much, but then I don't know how to weld--grin), but for somebody who works on Tigers and/or Alpines a lot and has to drop the crossmember regularly, it's pretty convenient. Best Regards David Thomas Witt wrote: > Years ago I was at Smitty's to pick up my Tiger. He had welded a > contraption that bolted to the front end of a Tiger that had the > engine, trans and crossmember out. It was basically 1/2" or 3/4" > square tubing with about 3" caster wheels attached. It sure looked > funny, but the car moved around like it was a shopping cart. David > Sosna, I think you know what I'm talking about. > > It sure saves the trouble of putting the crossmember back in just to > move the car about. > > Tom _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus > signature database 5011 (20100408) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5011 (20100408) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From michael.s.king at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 16:31:17 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 08:31:17 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Front axle In-Reply-To: References: <4BBDFAA3.9000000@roadrunner.com> <009401cad74b$4782bd70$d6883850$@ch> Message-ID: On 9 April 2010 06:41, Thomas Witt wrote: > A few years back I got a complete set of (two each) spindles (front axle as > you call it), rotor/hubs, calipers, backing plates and wheel bearings for > $80. All I needed at the time was one spindle, but the "package" was all I > could find. Shortly there after I found another spindle for $25. > > I also recall someone offering me a single spindle for $100. So, quite a > broad range ($25-$100). How good of a friend is it you have??? > Tom Depends if they are drop spindles... they are worth. -- Regards Michael King From hanjan2 at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 8 20:22:18 2010 From: hanjan2 at bellsouth.net (hanjan2) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:22:18 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques References: <21aca.5242a03.38ef43c6@aol.com> Message-ID: <009b01cad78b$7ac446f0$0402a8c0@maincomp> Way to go John ... thought I was the only one pulling from the top! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:35 AM Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques > Pulling an engine from a Tiger is like a religion. Once someone excepts > and > practices it a certain way, it generally becomes the only way. I am not > trying to convert anyone, just explain why I do it from the top. > > I pretty much follow the Manual procedure except I don't remove the > steering rack or washer bottle. > > You need the following; > * The ability to jack the car up temporarily 2 feet high in the front > and drop it after the tailshaft clears the tunnel. > * A chain-fall with a hook that will go at least 6 ft off the ground. > * A short lifting sling. > * A come-a-long to level the engine once it clears the tunnel and is > above the radiator support. > .Here are some of the reasons why I pull from the top > * I don't have to remove and reinstall the wheels. > * I don't have to remove and reinstall the front crossmember. > * I don't have to remove, then reinstall the steering column and > realign the wheels. > * I don't have to disconnect brake lines and then have to connect and > bleed them. > * I only need to disconnect and tie up the fuel line. > * After the engine is out I can safely roll, steer and stop the car > on all four of its wheels out of the way anytime I want without jacks or > blocks. > * I don't have to lift and roll the freshly restored body around > without front wheels and risk dropping a it. This has happened in our > family! > * I can do the whole job by myself without help. > John Logan > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hanjan2 at bellsouth.net From arado7 at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 8 23:32:01 2010 From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 22:32:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: <009b01cad78b$7ac446f0$0402a8c0@maincomp> Message-ID: <863912.61204.qm@web82702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- I pulled mine from the top. It was in 1986. A complete rebuild with new bore, new.40k over pistons, crank polish and inserts standard size.Original cam with new bearings. original followers. Reworked heads, replaced oil pump. Resurfaced flywheel and new clutch. New timing train as needed. Gearbox and rear end needed nothing. Put it back in car from the top. No problem. Used nothing but Mobil 1 20/50 and it's still in there and runs fine. I have a spare.. never used. Thanks john Logan. Gary, B9472283 tacted. From achd73 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 9 00:44:52 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 23:44:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: <863912.61204.qm@web82702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <822742.55144.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just out of curiosity---- has anyone pulled their engine from top or bottom while leaving one side or both headers on the engine. I have pulled more than my share of Tiger drive trains. For years from the top but I kept reading how easy out the bottom is. Well I dont think there is a lot of difference(unless my header question receives a YES response) It seems to me having the proper equipment is the secret. I would love to have a drawing of whatever invention allows the floor jack to lift the crossmember square and level. HINT< HINT< HINT. I have used an A frame on wheels with a 4 inch beam between the A legs w/ 2 trolleys with 1 ton chain falls and I use the intake plate-- the A-frame is taller than my rafters, so I have that much room to roll the engine/tranny the direction I plan plus the car can be rolled- I dont have a measurement in my head but with the intake plate, a shackle hooked to the hook on the chain fall, I have no problem rolling the car from under the pair. I do remove the wheels and jack up the car, placing GOOD jack stands in appropriate locations. Someone ask about using 4 jack stands, my rule applies to 2,4 or more. Once in place you should be able to shake the hell out of the car and have no worry about it falling. THEN, place floor jacks where they give extra protection. Most life insurance pays double in case of accidental death and a man just never knows when a female has decided to get even for that mistake you made 28 years earlier.Like elephants, they never forget- ANYTHING you did wrong. Not that I think that will ever happen but dont leave a good floor jack just setting beside a car you are in under. The same applies to tires and wheels. SAFETY FIRST From Carmods at aol.com Fri Apr 9 07:19:28 2010 From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:19:28 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy Message-ID: <5d134.3746ef89.38f08360@aol.com> About 30 years ago a supervisor in our shop killed himself when he accidentally kicked the release lever on the hydraulic jack he was using. Since then I have preached that there must always be some redundant method of keeping the car up if something fails. Hopefully after all these years, my son remembers my bitching. Besides extra jacks, I try to slide the wheel I take off under the car as just another redundancy. John Logan. From Carmods at aol.com Fri Apr 9 07:19:58 2010 From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:19:58 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Starters Message-ID: <5d1a9.72dc7392.38f0837e@aol.com> achd73 at yahoo.com writes: I did have trouble once getting a starter in after headers where on- sure hope that hi torque starter last a long time. Starter removal in a Tiger with headers is greatly improved by using the small Mustang starters that are now available. John Logan From owain.lloyd at gmail.com Fri Apr 9 11:54:33 2010 From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 19:54:33 +0200 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: <822742.55144.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <822742.55144.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Tony, I removed only one header when dropping the engine out the bottom. But with a good 1/4" uj and extesion it's easy enough to bolt/unbolt the headers. I used a motorcyle jack to support and lower the engine and wheel it out. No jig needed just some wood blocks. I agree about the crossmember... On 9 Apr 2010, at 08:44, Tony Somebody wrote: > Just out of curiosity---- has anyone pulled their engine from top or > bottom > while leaving one side or both headers on the engine. I have pulled > more than > my share of Tiger drive trains. For years from the top but I kept > reading how > easy out the bottom is. Well I dont think there is a lot of > difference(unless > my header question receives a YES response) It seems to me having > the proper > equipment is the secret. I would love to have a drawing of whatever > invention > allows the floor jack to lift the crossmember square and level. > HINT< HINT< > HINT. I have used an A frame on wheels with a 4 inch beam between > the A legs > w/ 2 trolleys with 1 ton chain falls and I use the intake plate-- > the A-frame > is taller than my rafters, so I have that much room to roll the > engine/tranny > the direction I plan plus the car can be rolled- I dont have a > measurement in > my head but with the intake plate, a shackle hooked to the hook on > the chain > fall, I have no problem rolling the car > from under the pair. I do remove the wheels and jack up the car, > placing GOOD > jack stands in appropriate locations. Someone ask about using 4 jack > stands, > my rule applies to 2,4 or more. Once in place you should be able to > shake the > hell out of the car and have no worry about it falling. THEN, place > floor > jacks where they give extra protection. Most life insurance pays > double in > case of accidental death and a man just never knows when a female > has decided > to get even for that mistake you made 28 years earlier.Like > elephants, they > never forget- ANYTHING you did wrong. Not that I think that will > ever happen > but dont leave a good floor jack just setting beside a car you are in > under. The same applies to tires and wheels. SAFETY FIRST > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com From atwittsend at verizon.net Fri Apr 9 14:19:54 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 13:19:54 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy References: <5d134.3746ef89.38f08360@aol.com> Message-ID: <6ACEE048134B425598D52794CBCF2F11@student2> >>>I try to slide the wheel I take off under the car as just another >>>redundancy.<<< Another lister mentioned this as well and I fully agree. This may sound a bit odd, but whenever I go under a car that has been elevated, I always plan my escape route. Am I quick enough??? Not sure (especially as I move towards my mid-50's) but perhaps it is the difference between a crushed ankle and a crushed skull. Tom From CoolVT at aol.com Fri Apr 9 15:05:42 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 17:05:42 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy Message-ID: <56a6b.91a7697.38f0f0a6@aol.com> The problem is can see unless I get tires wider than my 255's, the car is going to hit my belly before it hits the tire;-) In a message dated 4/9/2010 4:42:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, atwittsend at verizon.net writes: >>>I try to slide the wheel I take off under the car as just another >>>redundancy.<<< Another lister mentioned this as well and I fully agree. This may sound a bit odd, but whenever I go under a car that has been elevated, I always plan my escape route. Am I quick enough??? Not sure (especially as I move towards my mid-50's) but perhaps it is the difference between a crushed ankle and a crushed skull. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From s_ralsten at yahoo.com Fri Apr 9 17:24:47 2010 From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 16:24:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy In-Reply-To: <56a6b.91a7697.38f0f0a6@aol.com> References: <56a6b.91a7697.38f0f0a6@aol.com> Message-ID: <248141.71790.qm@web114105.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> So you suffer from Dunlops disease. Thats where your belly dunlops over your belt. Me too ________________________________ From: "CoolVT at aol.com" To: atwittsend at verizon.net; tigers at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, April 9, 2010 2:05:42 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy The problem is can see unless I get tires wider than my 255's, the car is going to hit my belly before it hits the tire;-) In a message dated 4/9/2010 4:42:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, atwittsend at verizon.net writes: >>>I try to slide the wheel I take off under the car as just another >>>redundancy.<<< Another lister mentioned this as well and I fully agree. This may sound a bit odd, but whenever I go under a car that has been elevated, I always plan my escape route. Am I quick enough??? Not sure (especially as I move towards my mid-50's) but perhaps it is the difference between a crushed ankle and a crushed skull. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten at yahoo.com From mmichels at socal.rr.com Fri Apr 9 17:52:29 2010 From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 16:52:29 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques In-Reply-To: References: <93F8881A-3B7C-47A4-BBCF-91BE3DCCF984@comcast.net> <000b01cad6c0$54aba380$fe02ea80$@rr.com> <5A1666951B574DB1BEBD7F899766C2B9@BucksLaptop> Message-ID: <004301cad83f$b736ed90$25a4c8b0$@rr.com> Tiger Tales had photos in the Jan/Feb 2009 issue. Dan helped with the remove and replace. Weight in the trunk definitely helped. He has a custom-made cradle that made things a big easier, but it's not absolutely necessary IMO. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael king Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:30 PM To: Buck Trippel Cc: email list; Tiger at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Engine Installation Techniques On 8 April 2010 13:04, Buck Trippel wrote: > Duke, > > That's Dan Walters' standard m.o. I think 200lbs will do it. > > Dan removes Tiger engines by himself in a little over 2 hours. > No cherry picker - just a scissors jack and his custom engine dolly. > The scissor is mainly used under the X-frame. > > Buck > I think there was a pictorial review of the *"down and out"* method in the CAT newsletter last year -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels at socal.rr.com From drmayf at mayfco.com Sat Apr 10 10:47:23 2010 From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:47:23 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Way OFF Topic: Ford Ranger Speed Parts Message-ID: <4BC0AB9B.4080000@mayfco.com> My youngest son has a 1997 Ford Ranger Splash that has the small 3.0L V6. I think this is the Probe motor from a few years ago. Are speed parts available for this puppy? Cam, lifters, headers, etc? Anyone point me to a web site which might have info? Yes, I know a zillion small block fords have been swapped in but I do not want to go in that direction. Turbo, maybe, lol... mayf From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 10 10:59:20 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 12:59:20 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine Color Message-ID: <0A3456A898064A3A86695BA5725682C2@ronpc1> FYI to all Mike Michels email on engine removal reminded me that there are color pictures of his Blue 260 engine, in the Jan/ Feb 2009 issue of Tiger Tails, which he believed to be the wrong shade of Blue. I have been looking at some pictures of the Blue paint on the Mk II 289 engines and they seem to have a similar shade of Blue. Ford changed engine color from Semi gloss Black to Blue for the 1966 model year which started in Aug 1965. This includes the last group of B19KC, 260 engines built in the fall of 1965 and all the Mk II, 289 engines. I can't say which is the correct Blue because pictures can have color shift due to lighting, age of paint or other making colors look different but I'm looking into this as I get time and chance to look at Mk II engines. I found this web site that at least has 3 Ford Blue colors compared: http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors To me even the first color chip on this site is darker than what I see on Mk II engine pictures and the color of Mike Michels' engine but it is close or similar to what I see in some pictures. I made a test sample of Plasti-Kote Ford Blue 205 and 224; 205 is the lighter blue, 224 is the dark blue. The Ford Blue 205 color on my sample looks to be between the 1st and 2nd chips on that web site. There again this is not a good way to compare the colors. It would be nice to have a collection of pictures of the original Blue painted Tiger engines somewhere on the Internet. I'm going to make some other paint samples and make better comparisons against a Mk II engine. Thanks for listening Ron Fraser From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 10 11:27:03 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 11:27:03 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] [Land-speed] Way OFF Topic: Ford Ranger Speed Parts In-Reply-To: <4BC0AB9B.4080000@mayfco.com> References: <4BC0AB9B.4080000@mayfco.com> Message-ID: <4BC0B4E7.8070805@bradakis.com> drmayf wrote: > My youngest son has a 1997 Ford Ranger Splash that has the small 3.0L > V6. I think this is the Probe motor from a few years ago. Are speed > parts available for this puppy? Cam, lifters, headers, etc? Anyone > point me to a web site which might have info? Yes, I know a zillion > small block fords have been swapped in but I do not want to go in that > direction. Turbo, maybe, lol... If memory serves me right this is the engine that was also used in the Mazda 6 sedans of the same time frame. And I believe there was a turbo version, so perhaps looking into Mazda tuners might help. mjb. From GRMTim at aol.com Mon Apr 5 07:23:38 2010 From: GRMTim at aol.com (GRMTim at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:23:38 EDT Subject: [Tigers] update on Classic Motorsports Mitty Message-ID: <4afbe.13312dac.38eb3e5a@aol.com> Sorry I haven't posted much lately. Been crazy busy, but have been lurking. Hope everyone has been enjoying the Tiger articles in Classic Motorsports. Don't usually like to barge lists, but as Peter Brock was so instrumental with the Shelby program, is our grand marshall and you will have plenty of face time with him at this event, I thought I should update you guys. Tim Suddard Publisher; Classic Motorsports and Grassroots Motorsports magazines www.classicmotorsports.net www.grassrootsmotorsports.com Phone: (386) 239-0523 Fax: (386) 239-0723 The MITTY Returns to Road Atlanta to Celebrate its 34th Year B B B B The oldest historic car race on the East Coast returns to Road Atlanta, April 29-May 2 with the Classic Motorsports MITTY presented by Mazda. B B B B Legendary auto figure Peter Brock is the Grand Marshal of this yearbs 34th annual festivities that will feature 28 races over three days featuring a lineup of more than 250 historic cars, offering something for every racing fan. B B B B Brock is a noted designer, builder and racer having stamped his legend by designing the World Championship Shelby Daytona Cobra and giving Datsun its first C Production National and Trans-Am 2.5 championships with his BRE stable of winning cars. He will be honored at a special dinner Thursday night at the track. B B B B bIbm greatly honored to be the grand marshal of the Mitty,b Brock said. bThis is the premier event of its kind. To have the history of BRE recognized is a great tribute and truly a walk down memory lane. Ibm looking forward to meeting with my old crew, the fans and seeing some old friends.b B B B B Brock has a long and storied history of excellence in the automotive industry. He began his career as a designer for General Motors where he penned the original Stingray concept. Later, Brock moved to the West Coast to work for Carroll Shelby, starting his School of High Performance Driving, which ultimately led to designing the Cobra Daytona Coupe. The still-young Brock continued his meteoric rise by creating Brock Racing Enterprises at the end of 1965. His team of BRE Datsun race cars quickly began winning trophies and championships across the country, proving to critics that these early Japanese imports could compete with the world. The BRE Datsuns won four national championships and had an unmistakable livery that is among the most recognizable in all of racing. Many fans, in fact, created BRE btributeb cars replicating the famous livery. On Saturday Brock will judge the best btributeb cars. B B B B B bHistoric Sportscar Racing has been bringing fans fantastic racing featuring some the great names in racing for two decades,b said Ken Fengler, HSR Vice President of Race Operations. bThis yearbs Mitty promises to offer fans some of the best racing ever among a broad variety of championship-winning cars and drivers.b Lotus will be a featured marque with a 20-lap Formula 5000 race at noon Sunday, May 2. Tony Adamowicz, the 1969 F5000 champion, will be among the competitors in his Eagle Mk5. In addition, spectators will be given free track laps in the all-new Lotus Evora during the weekend. B B B B Porsche will be in the spotlight with the Klub Sport Challenge which enters its 14th year of competition for all Porsches from the 1950s, 60s and 70s for 2.0-liter and 2.5-liter Porsche 911s, 914s, 356s and CP models. Additionally, the Cayman Interseries features 2009-2010 Caymans painted in historic racing paint schemes. B B B B Mazda fans will enjoy the SCCA Pro Racing Playboy Mazda MX-5 Cup, the only professional event of the weekend, which will be run Saturday afternoon. B B B B B In addition there will be seven other classes of racing including Vintage Production, Historic Production, Open Wheel, Historic GTP/Group C/WSC/DP, Championship of Makes, Historic Stock Cars and IMSA Historic GT.B B B B B B A vintage event for motorcycles will be held for nostalgic two-wheel marquees such as Norton, Triumph, Vincent and Matchless. They will race both Saturday and Sunday. B B B B Several non-racing activities will appeal to fans as well at the infield 2010 Speedfest. The Factory Five/Cobra Corral will be center stage of the infield vendor alley with car displays and vendor booths. More than 20 car clubs, including Jaguar, Porsche, Alfa Romeo, Cobra, Lotus and Fiat-Lancia, also will be on display in the infield. The Mazda ownerbs party Friday night is open to all Mazda owners who can attend by showing their car keys. The Saturday Night Party, sponsored by Moss Motors, will offer live entertainment with music by Wes Cobb. B B B An added bonus for fans will be the Concours dbLeMons, which puts a bitter twist on traditional Concours events by celebrating unloved and underappreciated classics, automotive oddities and cars whose owners arenbt afraid of a little self-deprecation. Judges will present several awards for cars that are especially foul, such as bMost Dangerous,b bWorst in Show,b and the b Biggest Loserb for the car with the greatest level of value depreciation. B B B B Among the top drivers competing in this yearbs MITTY will be George Robinson, Bill Adam, Butch Leitzinger and Travis Engen, all winners at the HSR season-opener in Sebring, Fla., as well as Elliott Forbes-Robinson, Jack Baldwin and Chip Robinson, to name a few.B B B B B B bThe variety of race cars competing includes everything from 1950s-era production models and sports cars to former IMSA and Trans-Am racers, NASCAR stock cars and current production Porsches. Many of the 250 entrants will sport vintage livery from the past that fans will readily recognize,b Fengler added. B B B B The Mitty is the second of eight races on the HSR 2010 schedule. For more information, go to www.themitty.com or www.hsrrace.com. # # # 04.01.2010 For more information, contact: Barbara J. Burns, BurnsGroup Unlimited 404.873.0772 phone or 770.329.7134 cell burnsgroup at aol.com From drmayf at mayfco.com Sat Apr 10 12:57:01 2010 From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 11:57:01 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Way OFF Topic: Ford Ranger Speed Parts In-Reply-To: <4BC0AB9B.4080000@mayfco.com> References: <4BC0AB9B.4080000@mayfco.com> Message-ID: <4BC0C9FD.8060405@mayfco.com> Hey, thanks everyone. I have enough places to start looking for now. mayf drmayf wrote: > My youngest son has a 1997 Ford Ranger Splash that has the small 3.0L > V6. I think this is the Probe motor from a few years ago. Are speed > parts available for this puppy? Cam, lifters, headers, etc? Anyone > point me to a web site which might have info? Yes, I know a zillion > small block fords have been swapped in but I do not want to go in that > direction. Turbo, maybe, lol... > > mayf > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com From alittlemoreink at hotmail.com Sat Apr 10 13:13:34 2010 From: alittlemoreink at hotmail.com (John Crawley) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:13:34 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi: One thing I learned as a kid was not to use cement blocks to hold a car up while you work under it. My Healy 3000 was just too heavy and the blocks crumpled. I was young and spry enough to get most of the way out from under when it went down but I was trapped for over an hour before my 75 year old neighbour heard me yelling for help. He came over with an old pumper jack and used it on the front wheel well. The jack nearly wrote the car off but I survived with remarkably little damage to me since when I took it the wheel off I had pushed it under the car! Jc _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Sat Apr 10 14:29:39 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:29:39 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] 67 Shelby Shocks Message-ID: List OK, off subject, but with all the knowledge out there I'm sure someone can help me. One of my friends is reassembling (restoring) a 67 GT-350 Shelby Mustang. The original front shocks (Autolite) have a disk (washer) welded just under the top rubber bushing and has four holes drilled in it (90degrees apart). He wants me to weld one of these round disks on each shock for originality. My question is, how was this used for adjustment, given the fact that you can only turn the top of the shock 180 degrees in either direction (the two bolts on top) however the disk has 4 holes in it? The pictures I've seen don't show the bottom of the shock. What went in any of those 4 holes? Thanks in advance. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 From achd73 at yahoo.com Sat Apr 10 14:40:33 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:40:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <653043.17218.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> GLAD you are still with us. Back in the day, those old blocks, commonly called "cinder blocks"didnt have much concrete in them and they did crumble easily.Im sure your nieghbor was scared, at his age he was scared or not the least bit excited ! TtT --- On Sat, 4/10/10, John Crawley wrote: From: John Crawley Subject: Re: [Tigers] Car Jacking Redundancy To: "LIST TIGER" Date: Saturday, April 10, 2010, 2:13 PM Hi: One thing I learned as a kid was not to use cement blocks to hold a car up while you work under it. My Healy 3000 was just too heavy and the blocks crumpled. I was young and spry enough to get most of the way out from under when it went down but I was trapped for over an hour before my 75 year old neighbour heard me yelling for help. He came over with an old pumper jack and used it on the front wheel well. The jack nearly wrote the car off but I survived with remarkably little damage to me since when I took it the wheel off I had pushed it under the car! Jc _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail & Messenger. Get them on your phone now. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724463 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From mmichels at socal.rr.com Sat Apr 10 14:41:44 2010 From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 13:41:44 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Engine Color In-Reply-To: <0A3456A898064A3A86695BA5725682C2@ronpc1> References: <0A3456A898064A3A86695BA5725682C2@ronpc1> Message-ID: <000001cad8ee$3c17a8c0$b446fa40$@rr.com> I'm not sure that the paint on my 260 was original. It seemed pretty light compared to the usual Ford Blue, but it was very aged. For what it's worth I ended up painting the new engine with Duplicolor 1606 Ford dark blue which seems to be closest to other Ford products of the era. It's pretty much a moot point for me since so little of the painted portion of the engine is visible in the engine bay. The only time I'm even aware that the engine is blue is when looking at the oil pan during an oil change! -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 9:59 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Engine Color FYI to all Mike Michels email on engine removal reminded me that there are color pictures of his Blue 260 engine, in the Jan/ Feb 2009 issue of Tiger Tails, which he believed to be the wrong shade of Blue. I have been looking at some pictures of the Blue paint on the Mk II 289 engines and they seem to have a similar shade of Blue. Ford changed engine color from Semi gloss Black to Blue for the 1966 model year which started in Aug 1965. This includes the last group of B19KC, 260 engines built in the fall of 1965 and all the Mk II, 289 engines. I can't say which is the correct Blue because pictures can have color shift due to lighting, age of paint or other making colors look different but I'm looking into this as I get time and chance to look at Mk II engines. I found this web site that at least has 3 Ford Blue colors compared: http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors To me even the first color chip on this site is darker than what I see on Mk II engine pictures and the color of Mike Michels' engine but it is close or similar to what I see in some pictures. I made a test sample of Plasti-Kote Ford Blue 205 and 224; 205 is the lighter blue, 224 is the dark blue. The Ford Blue 205 color on my sample looks to be between the 1st and 2nd chips on that web site. There again this is not a good way to compare the colors. It would be nice to have a collection of pictures of the original Blue painted Tiger engines somewhere on the Internet. I'm going to make some other paint samples and make better comparisons against a Mk II engine. Thanks for listening Ron Fraser _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels at socal.rr.com From motoys2001 at comcast.net Sat Apr 10 16:47:46 2010 From: motoys2001 at comcast.net (motoys2001 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 22:47:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] 67 Shelby Shocks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2050443950.5785491270939666520.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> These guys should have the answer for you: http://saacforum.com/index.php From kperr010 at odu.edu Sat Apr 10 13:39:55 2010 From: kperr010 at odu.edu (Kenneth Perry) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 15:39:55 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger question Message-ID: Classic Tiger, My name is Kenny Perry and I live in Portsmouth, VA. My father in law has a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger that he is looking to sell. However, he doesn't know much about computers, so I'm in charge of getting the car sold. I have had a really tough time trying to sell it on ebay, so I found you guys' website and I was hoping you might be able to provide some advice. In your opinion, what is the best venue, or the best way, to advertise his car for sale? Do you guys know any potential buyers who might be interested in his car? Here are some specs: it's an original 1966 Tiger, which has been repainted yellow. The paint job is practically immaculate. Leather interior, manual transmission. It runs well, and has around 83,000 miles on it. I can provide more details if you're interested. Any tips or advice you could provide about how to best sell the Tiger would be MUCH appreciated. Like I've said, it's been a frustrating ordeal trying to sell the car, and my in laws need money so they want to get it sold quickly. Thanks for your help! Kenny From todbrown at roadrunner.com Sat Apr 10 17:54:35 2010 From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 19:54:35 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Dunlops Disease Message-ID: <4BC10FBB.4070600@roadrunner.com> I have heard some Brits refer to this as "a porch over the toy store". Cheers, Tod B382002384LRXFE From slaifman at socal.rr.com Sat Apr 10 18:45:01 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 17:45:01 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Wrist Watch Message-ID: <4BC11B8D.6030609@socal.rr.com> This item is Sunbeam Tiger Mk II "289"named wristwatch. Japanese Quartz movement, chrome case and Stainless back and band, stop watch. About 6 days left at current bid $28.88. No! It is NOT a Rolex, but may satisfy a need. Or "custom graphics", or self-made graphics available http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUNBEAM-TIGER-MK-II-MARK-II-289-ENGINE-EMBLEM-ART-WATCH_W0QQitemZ280491364837QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRace_Car_Parts?hash=item414e9691e5 At this price, let them steal it! ;-) Steve From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Sat Apr 10 19:04:20 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:04:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Engine color Message-ID: <479598.6056.qm@web111601.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> In )ct, 2008, Ron Fraser did quite a bit of research out the color of our engines. The results: It all depends on the Ford Revision number when the engine was built. According Ford Microfich, Ford switched engine color from black to Corporate Dark Blue beginning with build revision 9 Engine B19KC. This was In the summer of 1965 in order to have engines for the new 1966 models. These engines were Corporate Dark Blue. DE1606. This means if your Tiger has a B19KC engine and built before the summer of 1965, its engine should be black. Accoring to the BON, the first Tiger built with a B19KC was 02/10/65 The first Tiger with B19KC Rev 9 was 08/14/65.Its engine was the new Corporate Dark Blue this mean some 1965 Tigers have black engines some blue. All Tigers with Rev 9 thru the end of the MKIA were dark blue. The MK II were the new Lighter blue introduced with the 289. Your color all depeneds on the build date of your Tiger with its Revison number This why you should keep your ID plate, Here the confusion: Say you have a 1966 Tiger but its engine is black. If your build date is 08/14/65 and your Rev nbr is before Rev 9, Black is correct. But given how the dealers titled the cars, your car may have a 1967 on its title. Say you have a 1966 Tiger you bought in 1966 and its engine is black. Your purchade date is not indictive when it was made. It could have Be made before 08/65 and then black is correct. Otherwise check the Rev nbr of the engine. All B19KC Tigers Rev 9, (first built 08/14/65) had the new dark blue. Confused. Me too. Goodnight. Dave on Aug 08, 1 From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sun Apr 11 09:07:00 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 11:07:00 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine color In-Reply-To: <479598.6056.qm@web111601.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Dave Good synopsis and yes there is confusion here and probably always will. Ford controlled the color of the engines. All engine blocks were painted black until the 1966 Ford model year; Aug 1965. The B19KC engine group spans the 1965 and 1966 Ford model years and were divided into 2 build periods. The engine ID tag for the 1965, 260 engines will have 65 and probably revision level 5, I have no entries in my study for the early B19KC engine group. The engine ID tag for the 1966 engines will have 66 and revision level 9. The later group of B19KC, 260 engines were built in the fall of 1966 and were painted blue. I have several engine entries in my study for this later group of B19KC engines with Oct 1966 build dates. The real confusion is with the Paint. Different shades of Ford Blue are rampant on the market. Many are called Old Ford Blue or Ford Blue but do not seem even close to the Blue color on Tiger engines. I don't know if there is a difference in the shade of Blue used for the last group of 260 engines and the Mk II, 289 engines. I would not think so but I usually get into trouble when I think too much. What is needed are color photos of original Tiger engines painted blue and historical color photos for comparison. My current position on what shade of Blue; 1- if it is know that the engine should be Blue; paint it Blue; 2- paint the engine the shade of Blue that appeals to you. I intend to keep looking into this subject and I hope other will too. My Original Tiger Engine Study includes all Tigers so feel free to contact me offline to participate or to just have your Ford casting numbers and date codes deciphered. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David T Johnson Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 9:04 PM To: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Engine color In )ct, 2008, Ron Fraser did quite a bit of research out the color of our engines. The results: It all depends on the Ford Revision number when the engine was built. According Ford Microfich, Ford switched engine color from black to Corporate Dark Blue beginning with build revision 9 Engine B19KC. This was In the summer of 1965 in order to have engines for the new 1966 models. These engines were Corporate Dark Blue. DE1606. This means if your Tiger has a B19KC engine and built before the summer of 1965, its engine should be black. Accoring to the BON, the first Tiger built with a B19KC was 02/10/65 The first Tiger with B19KC Rev 9 was 08/14/65.Its engine was the new Corporate Dark Blue this mean some 1965 Tigers have black engines some blue. All Tigers with Rev 9 thru the end of the MKIA were dark blue. The MK II were the new Lighter blue introduced with the 289. Your color all depeneds on the build date of your Tiger with its Revison number This why you should keep your ID plate, Here the confusion: Say you have a 1966 Tiger but its engine is black. If your build date is 08/14/65 and your Rev nbr is before Rev 9, Black is correct. But given how the dealers titled the cars, your car may have a 1967 on its title. Say you have a 1966 Tiger you bought in 1966 and its engine is black. Your purchade date is not indictive when it was made. It could have Be made before 08/65 and then black is correct. Otherwise check the Rev nbr of the engine. All B19KC Tigers Rev 9, (first built 08/14/65) had the new dark blue. Confused. Me too. Goodnight. Dave on Aug 08, 1 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2802 - Release Date: 04/10/10 06:32:00 From clydemclaughlin at verizon.net Sun Apr 11 12:19:14 2010 From: clydemclaughlin at verizon.net (Clyde McLaughlin) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 14:19:14 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] CENTRAL PA BASH Message-ID: <002501cad9a3$7e2d6000$0301a8c0@chesapeake4> Anyone from the dc md area going to the pa bash on fri want to drive up together ?? Clyde 410 562 2316 or reply to e-mail From v8tracker at gmail.com Sun Apr 11 15:44:29 2010 From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 16:44:29 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Ford four barrel manifold Message-ID: There is an ad for a stock four barrel manifold on the local Craigslist for $150. http://neworleans.craigslist.org/pts/1687194401.html I can go check it out if anyone is interested. Just let me know. A. C. Tynes New Orleans From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sun Apr 11 16:06:19 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 18:06:19 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine color In-Reply-To: <848fe.614d4159.38f3882d@aol.com> Message-ID: Mark This is one of those gray areas we may never fully understand. The Ford Industrial Division had a lot to do with organization and process of this Special Order of engines to Rootes but I don't have a clear perspective on their total role. As far as I know all the Tiger engines were built at the Cleveland Foundry. I believe the CF on the valve cover stickers means Cleveland Foundry. I'm assuming at this time that the color of the engine blocks followed the color of the rest of the engines built during this same period in accordance with Ford procedures. I also realize that with this Special Order a color variant but still a stock Ford color might have been applied to the Blue Tiger engines to make them stand out on the factory floor. It may or may not have been a nightmare for the Industrial Division to process the Tiger engine Order. My theory is that Ford built the Tiger Engines during slack times in their normal build cycles. To date the majority of Tiger engines were built between Jan through April and between Oct and Nov. Many castings were done Jan to March and also July. July, generally is a shut down period between model years. Please note that these are just the trends I see with the Engine Study; more information could change this. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com] Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 4:17 PM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; djoh797014 at yahoo.com; Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine color Ron, If the engines are supposedly from the "industrial" division, if would be interesting to see the color of some industrial engines. I believe "New Holland" farm equipment came from that division during that period. Mark L From bomber44 at comcast.net Sun Apr 11 17:06:53 2010 From: bomber44 at comcast.net (Rob Guerra) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 16:06:53 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Low Serial # Car's questions Message-ID: <49FC29F4-11F6-4400-94EA-C768EEAD3CA0@comcast.net> Hello all I am doing a research project and would like owners with cars whose serial are less than B9470250 LRXFE to contact me off the list. I have a couple of questions for you. tiger351w at comcast.net Rob From CoolVT at aol.com Sun Apr 11 17:14:36 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 19:14:36 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Engine color Message-ID: <2f964.7e212b6f.38f3b1dc@aol.com> A few years back I approached an old time New Holland dealer to see if their parts dept. could find Tiger pulleys. They said the #'s sounded familiar, but couldn't find any reference in their current books. It would be interesting if dealer had old books on hand if they could find any reference to the engine and parts that went on it. It normally takes finding an old timer who has been in the parts dept for 40 years. I found just that when I was looking for a part for a commercial carpet shampooer. I couldn't find one dealer on the internet who knew what I was talking about and when the factory parts dept didn't know, they finally put me in touch with a 45 yr. employee who knew the part # off the top of her head......and they had 3 of the parts left on their shelves....but under a new number. I'm still guessing some New Holland dealer has the old Tiger pulleys on the shelf somewhere. Mark In a message dated 4/11/2010 6:33:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rfraser at bluefrog.com writes: Mark This is one of those gray areas we may never fully understand. The Ford Industrial Division had a lot to do with organization and process of this Special Order of engines to Rootes but I don't have a clear perspective on their total role. As far as I know all the Tiger engines were built at the Cleveland Foundry. I believe the CF on the valve cover stickers means Cleveland Foundry. I'm assuming at this time that the color of the engine blocks followed the color of the rest of the engines built during this same period in accordance with Ford procedures. I also realize that with this Special Order a color variant but still a stock Ford color might have been applied to the Blue Tiger engines to make them stand out on the factory floor. It may or may not have been a nightmare for the Industrial Division to process the Tiger engine Order. My theory is that Ford built the Tiger Engines during slack times in their normal build cycles. To date the majority of Tiger engines were built between Jan through April and between Oct and Nov. Many castings were done Jan to March and also July. July, generally is a shut down period between model years. Please note that these are just the trends I see with the Engine Study; more information could change this. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com] Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 4:17 PM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; djoh797014 at yahoo.com; Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine color Ron, If the engines are supposedly from the "industrial" division, if would be interesting to see the color of some industrial engines. I believe "New Holland" farm equipment came from that division during that period. Mark L _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From alpdavegre at msn.com Sun Apr 11 21:55:16 2010 From: alpdavegre at msn.com (DAVID GREEN) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:55:16 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Midnight Blue # 58 Message-ID: Hello all, Anyone out there have a Tiger with color code #58 Midnight Blue?? Thanks Dave Green 2 Tigers, 14 Alpines From denismercier at telvic.net Mon Apr 12 04:15:33 2010 From: denismercier at telvic.net (denis mercier) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 06:15:33 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Midnight Blue # 58 References: Message-ID: <088D14EE61FC483AB9C89CC571F9D78F@D7F0WHF1> Dave. My MK1A is Midnight Blue # 58 with Azure Blue interior. Denis. B382000926LRXFE ----- Original Message ----- From: "DAVID GREEN" To: Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:55 PM Subject: [Tigers] Midnight Blue # 58 > Hello all, > > > > Anyone out there have a Tiger with color code #58 Midnight Blue?? > > Thanks > > Dave Green > > 2 Tigers, 14 Alpines > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/denismercier at telvic.net From srwick at hotmail.com Mon Apr 12 06:05:45 2010 From: srwick at hotmail.com (steve wick) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 05:05:45 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Midnight Blue # 58 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mine is code #58, but was painted Red by a previous owner. When I get around to restoring it, it will go back to blue. Steve > From: alpdavegre at msn.com > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 21:55:16 -0600 > Subject: [Tigers] Midnight Blue # 58 > > Hello all, > > > > Anyone out there have a Tiger with color code #58 Midnight Blue?? > > Thanks > > Dave Green > > 2 Tigers, 14 Alpines > _______________________________________________ From TIGEROOTES at aol.com Mon Apr 12 06:26:56 2010 From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com (TIGEROOTES at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 08:26:56 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Midnight Blue # 58 Message-ID: <7dbd5.30a3fbe4.38f46b90@aol.com> Dave, My Mk-1 is Midnight Blue. Jim From todbrown at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 12 07:33:14 2010 From: todbrown at roadrunner.com (Tod Brown) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 09:33:14 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Message-ID: <4BC3211A.3020503@roadrunner.com> I am the original owner of my Tiger which came off the Jensen line at the end of August, 1966. I bought it in October of that year and it was registered as a 1967 in NY. The serial no. is B382002384LRXFE, making it toward the end of the run of MkIA's. Early in its life, I removed the original intake manifold and two-barrel carb and replaced them with a new intake and four-barrel. I carefully placed the original carb and manifold on a shelf in my basement, where it resided for 30 years plus. When I retired and moved to Maine, the manifold and carb came with me. The surface of the manifold has become pretty rusty over the years so it is hard to discern the exact color of its original paint, but it is clearly blue. Better yet, however, is the carb spacer (made of aluminum) that still resides in its original location on top of the manifold. The original paint is still there. My recollection, when I was looking to match the paint color when I wanted to paint the engine, is that the color is called "Old Ford Blue" and that I was able to buy some rattle cans of paint of that color which matched pretty well. I have taken a couple of pics of the carb spacer with the original paint and will be happy to send them to anyone who wants them. Also, for those who care (maybe just Ron Fraser) the original aluminum Ford tag was still on the manifold. It is stamped 260 66 9 5-K 510 - J Cheers, Tod From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Mon Apr 12 11:26:45 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 12:26:45 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] LAT 4 Message-ID: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> List, Well, someone stepped up to the plate and paid $999.00 for an oil pan (LAT 4) on E-Bay. I thought I paid a lot when I bought mine for $100.00 (OK it's been many many years ago).HA. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Mon Apr 12 12:27:26 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:27:26 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] LAT 4 In-Reply-To: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> Message-ID: <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> I was watching that. Those pans look to be brittle and no baffling in them to prevent oil sloshing around. I would consider one if the price were ~$200 and it had baffling. I will be going with a Canton on my 347. $999 is crazy money. It can go in a glass case with the MKII grill. Duke B382002037 ---- "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" wrote: > List, > > > > Well, someone stepped up to the plate and paid $999.00 for an oil pan (LAT > 4) on E-Bay. I thought I paid a lot when I bought mine for $100.00 (OK it's > been many many years ago).HA. > > > > Jerry Christopherson > > 9473187 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com From m_dangelo at verizon.net Mon Apr 12 12:55:20 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 13:55:20 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 Message-ID: <14553349.195445.1271098520036.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Hi all. I am getting ready to buy a clutch for my 289 engine. The engine is built to produce about 300HP (or just a bit less), so I am guessing I'll need a clutch rated for more than stock power. I expect to drive the car occasionally and at least 99% on the street. The flywheel is the old stock 160 tooth flywheel, which has been resurfaced, by the way. So, I am a bit clueless as to which clutch kit to buy. First, is there anything special about the Sunbeam Tiger, in that it needs a special type of clutch? I am considering the RAM Musclecar clutch and the McLeod MCL75113 diaphram clutch from Summit Racing. I seem to remember Doug Jennings recommending a diaphragm clutch to me... David Kee Toploaders as a clutch made especially for Sunbeam Tigers, whatever that means. I would like to keep the expense of a clutch at or lower than the McLeod ($235). Does anyone have any experience with choosing a clutch for a Tiger? I would really appreciate your advice and opinions of the two clutch kits mentioned above (from Summit Racing), as well as the David Kee clutch. I also have to buy a pilot bearing and don't know if that was a special bearing for the Tiger only. Any idea? Thanks very much! Mauro From owain.lloyd at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 13:22:00 2010 From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:22:00 +0200 Subject: [Tigers] LAT 4 In-Reply-To: <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> References: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> Message-ID: they are not so brittle. mine survived the Morocco rally with a rather inadequate guard protecting it that got torn to shreds. i've bottomed it quite hard several times with no ill affects and its heavily notched on the corners by the crossmember. i'm amazed how tough it is actually. i have a separate windage tray bolted to the bearing caps. having seen that price, i'd would have put a steel pan for rallying again though! i did want to actually but couldn't find one with a sufficiently large capacity in the UK... On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 8:27 PM, wrote: > I was watching that. Those pans look to be brittle and no baffling in them > to prevent oil sloshing around. I would consider one if the price were > ~$200 and it had baffling. I will be going with a Canton on my 347. > > $999 is crazy money. It can go in a glass case with the MKII grill. > > > Duke > B382002037 > > > > > ---- "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" wrote: > > List, > > > > > > > > Well, someone stepped up to the plate and paid $999.00 for an oil pan > (LAT > > 4) on E-Bay. I thought I paid a lot when I bought mine for $100.00 (OK > it's > > been many many years ago).HA. > > > > > > > > Jerry Christopherson > > > > 9473187 > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com From shutchin at netjets.com Mon Apr 12 13:45:05 2010 From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 15:45:05 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <14553349.195445.1271098520036.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> References: <14553349.195445.1271098520036.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D408966378@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> Very happy with the Centerforce. I don't recall anything special about the throwout bearing or the pilot bearing. *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Apr 12 14:23:35 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:23:35 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <14553349.195445.1271098520036.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <7177469944724272BE59E308E820BCF5@ronpc1> Mauro The Tiger engine, clutch and transmission are all Ford parts. There is nothing special about the Tiger clutch. The difference is whether you have a 5 bolt engine or a 6 bolt engine block. The 5 bolt has a 10.5" flywheel and the 6 bolt has an 11" flywheel. Original pilot bearing - C2OA-7600-A I believe this bearing is used in all 289 engines also. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of m_dangelo at verizon.net Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 2:55 PM To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Cc: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 Hi all. I am getting ready to buy a clutch for my 289 engine. The engine is built to produce about 300HP (or just a bit less), so I am guessing I'll need a clutch rated for more than stock power. I expect to drive the car occasionally and at least 99% on the street. The flywheel is the old stock 160 tooth flywheel, which has been resurfaced, by the way. So, I am a bit clueless as to which clutch kit to buy. First, is there anything special about the Sunbeam Tiger, in that it needs a special type of clutch? I am considering the RAM Musclecar clutch and the McLeod MCL75113 diaphram clutch from Summit Racing. I seem to remember Doug Jennings recommending a diaphragm clutch to me... David Kee Toploaders as a clutch made especially for Sunbeam Tigers, whatever that means. I would like to keep the expense of a clutch at or lower than the McLeod ($235). Does anyone have any experience with choosing a clutch for a Tiger? I would really appreciate your advice and opinions of the two clutch kits mentioned above (from Summit Racing), as well as the David Kee clutch. I also have to buy a pilot bearing and don't know if that was a special bearing for the Tiger only. Any idea? Thanks very much! Mauro _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2804 - Release Date: 04/12/10 06:32:00 From owain.lloyd at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 13:54:18 2010 From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 21:54:18 +0200 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <14553349.195445.1271098520036.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> References: <14553349.195445.1271098520036.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <45BEC032-32C7-437D-9A12-EF6A256BD16E@gmail.com> I'm happy with my 10" centreforce 2. Had lots of positive feedback from the list a couple of years back which is why I chose it. Very nice feel - easy and smooth - and I track the car and drive it hard with a similar amount of power. Tried the ford king cobra 10.5" and it was very stiff and I destroyed it. I used a brass pilot bushing and centreforce release bearing. All from summit and not expensive. I did use a new billet steel mcleod flywheel though as having an aluminum bellhousing I wanted a little more security. Personally I wouldn't use a stock cast flywheel without a scattershield if you drive the stones out of it. Can send part numbers if you need... On 12 Apr 2010, at 20:55, m_dangelo at verizon.net wrote: > Hi all. I am getting ready to buy a clutch for my 289 engine. The > engine is > built to produce about 300HP (or just a bit less), so I am guessing > I'll need > a clutch rated for more than stock power. I expect to drive the car > occasionally and at least 99% on the street. The flywheel is the old > stock 160 > tooth flywheel, which has been resurfaced, by the way. So, I am a bit > clueless as to which clutch kit to buy. First, is there anything > special > about the Sunbeam Tiger, in that it needs a special type of clutch? > I am > considering the RAM Musclecar clutch and the McLeod MCL75113 > diaphram clutch > from Summit Racing. I seem to remember Doug Jennings recommending a > diaphragm > clutch to me... David Kee Toploaders as a clutch made especially > for Sunbeam > Tigers, whatever that means. I would like to keep the expense of a > clutch at > or lower than the McLeod ($235). Does anyone have any experience with > choosing a clutch for a Tiger? I would really appreciate your > advice and > opinions of the two clutch kits mentioned above (from Summit > Racing), as well > as the David Kee clutch. I also have to buy a pilot bearing and > don't know if > that was a special bearing for the Tiger only. Any idea? Thanks > very much! > Mauro > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com From atwittsend at verizon.net Mon Apr 12 15:43:03 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 14:43:03 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Book of Norman price poll (results) Message-ID: A number of weeks ago I offered to tabulate the price that was paid for the Book of Norman. I had only 14 respondents. Some were guessing on the price and others included a final price with tax and shipping, but no breakdown. Regardless, here are the results: Six people responded that they had paid $58 which I believe to be the original asking price. Three people stated they each paid $55, $60 and $70 respectively. This probably equates to the $58 plus some form of shipping, tax or a rough guess estimate. One person stated they believe they paid $25. One person said they paid $48, but they had giving information to the author and were discounted for that. On the higher end two people replied with $200 and $400 payments. Lastly, one respondent stated that the Book of Norman cost them $45,857.73. Any guesses??? So, there you have it. Not much of a poll. Well we tried. And..., no thanks I'd rather not do it twice (too much going on). Closing thoughts: Frankly I can think of no other investment I have ever made (including real estate) that on a percentage basis has appreciated more than the $310 I paid for my Book of Norman. More so, even in bad times it is still in demand and doesn't require a broker to sell. Thanks to all who participated. Regards, Tom From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Mon Apr 12 15:54:05 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:54:05 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron In-Reply-To: References: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> Message-ID: <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> I would like to say this happened years ago but it was this last Saturday. I have been having issues with the 7" Girling brake booster for about 2 years now. My car was missing the booster when I bought it and I bought one from a great guy (name withheld). This booster has been off my car three times and back to (the guy) for rebuild and adjustment to try to get it working correctly. It kept applying slight pressure to the brakes which is really bad for gas mileage and brake pads and shoes. The brakes started dragging again shortly after putting it back on the car, I called the guy and told him I give up and am going to buy a new Lockheed booster. He tells me he will send me a 5" Girling booster to replace the 7" booster. I say OK . I received the booster last week and installed it on Saturday. I did some other mild work replacing a brake cylinder and the line that fed it. So, the new booster is on the car and ready for pressure bleeding. I use the Motive pressure bleeder. I pumped the bleeder up to 15 psi and went to bleed the first caliper....gurgle, gurgle.the pressure bleeder just went dry..WTH? There was at least three pints of brake fluid in it too???? I figure that the new booster is bad and all of the fluid went into the "can" of the booster. I pull the "new" booster off and put on a bypass line. I then bleed the brakes with no issues. Now I need to send both boosters back. I then try to start the engine, it cranked and then locks! WTF! The engine hydrolocked, all of the brake fluid was pumped through the booster, up the vacuum line, into the manifold and then the cylinders. I am seriously pissed at this point. I then pulled all of the spark plugs so I can get the damn brake fluid out of the engine. I put lots and lots of paper towels by each hole to hopefully catch the fluid as it is expelled. I hit the starter and with nothing short of explosions, brake fluid is blown all over me, the engine, engine compartment and the front half of the car. I lose it at this point and yell bad things so loud that my son comes out of the house to check on me. Not only am I worried that the engine is damaged but now have a clock ticking of ruining just about all of the paint on my car. A emergency wash down takes place, then soap and water..install the plugs, start the engine (smokes like hell), engine sound Ok..drive directly to the car wash where I spend $10 pressure washing every part of the car. Turns out, engine is OK and I believe all of the paint is safe. Time will tell on that. I changed the oil and filter. Purchased the new Lockheed booster from SS today. Lessoned learned. 1. Disconnect the vacuum line to the manifold when bleeding the system 2. Hand crank the engine if this ever happens again. Duke B382002037 From CoolVT at aol.com Mon Apr 12 16:18:09 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:18:09 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Book of Norman price poll (results) Message-ID: <1026a.1e02524d.38f4f621@aol.com> Tom, If you can come up with about 10 more at your $310 price, I'd like to invest. I pay the shipping. M In a message dated 4/12/2010 6:13:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, atwittsend at verizon.net writes: A number of weeks ago I offered to tabulate the price that was paid for the Book of Norman. I had only 14 respondents. Some were guessing on the price and others included a final price with tax and shipping, but no breakdown. Regardless, here are the results: Six people responded that they had paid $58 which I believe to be the original asking price. Three people stated they each paid $55, $60 and $70 respectively. This probably equates to the $58 plus some form of shipping, tax or a rough guess estimate. One person stated they believe they paid $25. One person said they paid $48, but they had giving information to the author and were discounted for that. On the higher end two people replied with $200 and $400 payments. Lastly, one respondent stated that the Book of Norman cost them $45,857.73. Any guesses??? So, there you have it. Not much of a poll. Well we tried. And..., no thanks I'd rather not do it twice (too much going on). Closing thoughts: Frankly I can think of no other investment I have ever made (including real estate) that on a percentage basis has appreciated more than the $310 I paid for my Book of Norman. More so, even in bad times it is still in demand and doesn't require a broker to sell. Thanks to all who participated. Regards, Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From MWood24020 at aol.com Mon Apr 12 16:42:36 2010 From: MWood24020 at aol.com (MWood24020 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:42:36 EDT Subject: [Tigers] LAT 4 Message-ID: <220d4.7cfcf0e7.38f4fbdc@aol.com> At least MKII grills don't leak... ;-) In a message dated 4/12/2010 12:15:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, wsamouce at kc.rr.com writes: I was watching that. Those pans look to be brittle and no baffling in them to prevent oil sloshing around. I would consider one if the price were ~$200 and it had baffling. I will be going with a Canton on my 347. $999 is crazy money. It can go in a glass case with the MKII grill. Duke B382002037 ---- "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" wrote: > List, > > > > Well, someone stepped up to the plate and paid $999.00 for an oil pan (LAT > 4) on E-Bay. I thought I paid a lot when I bought mine for $100.00 (OK it's > been many many years ago).HA. > > > > Jerry Christopherson > > 9473187 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mwood24020 at aol.com From marcsmall at comcast.net Mon Apr 12 16:52:25 2010 From: marcsmall at comcast.net (Marc James Small) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:52:25 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron In-Reply-To: <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> References: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20100412225223.81773187671@autox.team.net> At 05:54 PM 4/12/2010, wsamouce wrote: >I would like to say this happened years ago but it was this last Saturday. > >I have been having issues with the 7" Girling brake booster for about 2 >years now. My car was missing the booster when I bought it and I bought one >from a great guy (name withheld). > >This booster has been off my car three times and back to (the guy) for >rebuild and adjustment to try to get it working correctly. It kept applying >slight pressure to the brakes which is really bad for gas mileage and brake >pads and shoes. I have rebuilt a number of the Girling Boosters, in both sizes, and I think I know what the fellow was doing wrong. These things are pretty simple to overhaul and the only requirements are the proper rebuilt kit, a lot of caution, and even more attention to detail. Of the dozen or so I have rebuilt, one did maintain residual pressure -- I took it apart and found that I had not properly cleaned the can, so that the piston was snagging slightly. A complete cleaning, five minutes with some ultra-fine sandpaper, and another complete cleaning, then reassembly and it worked fine. Girling boosters are really not that hard to overhaul, sort of on the same order as a Bosch K-Jetronic fuel-injection system. Surgical cleanliness is really necessary. Beyond that, though, it is not rocket science. But, yes, I would go for the Lockheed booster today -- the Girling Boosters were last made years back, I believe, and, unless you find a NIB example, the new unit is bound to be more reliable. Marc msmall at aya.yale.edu Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! From rande at thecia.net Mon Apr 12 16:59:57 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:59:57 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] clutch Message-ID: <4bc3a5ed.6bf5.0@thecia.net> I'd take the advice of getting the Centerforce. I haven't used one but all the feedback I've heard is that it's the way to go with a built motor. I used a McLeod setup in my Oregon Mustang days ('65 2+2 289-4V twice pipes) but I didn't beat on it, as I took it 50 miles each way to work a few days a week. It had the 10.4" clutch disc that Tiger Mark II's and some Mark I's use (164 tooth flywheel). You might ask others with the 347 motor what they used for a clutch. By the way, Ron included the right part number for the Ford pilot bushing. Someone from Ford gave me a number for a later actual pilot bearing that he said superceeds the brass? bushing. The number is D8TZ-7600-A I have one ready to install in my Tiger 1A (the motor is a 4/67 289 C (2bbl). Has anyone used the newer pilot bearing in their cars? From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Mon Apr 12 17:21:03 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:21:03 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <7177469944724272BE59E308E820BCF5@ronpc1> References: <14553349.195445.1271098520036.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net> <7177469944724272BE59E308E820BCF5@ronpc1> Message-ID: <15F508DC00A04AF0959FE454EF93D63F@jerry> Mauro, You can upgrade to a more modern needle pilot bearing too. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 3:24 PM To: m_dangelo at verizon.net; TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Cc: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 Mauro The Tiger engine, clutch and transmission are all Ford parts. There is nothing special about the Tiger clutch. The difference is whether you have a 5 bolt engine or a 6 bolt engine block. The 5 bolt has a 10.5" flywheel and the 6 bolt has an 11" flywheel. Original pilot bearing - C2OA-7600-A I believe this bearing is used in all 289 engines also. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of m_dangelo at verizon.net Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 2:55 PM To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Cc: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 Hi all. I am getting ready to buy a clutch for my 289 engine. The engine is built to produce about 300HP (or just a bit less), so I am guessing I'll need a clutch rated for more than stock power. I expect to drive the car occasionally and at least 99% on the street. The flywheel is the old stock 160 tooth flywheel, which has been resurfaced, by the way. So, I am a bit clueless as to which clutch kit to buy. First, is there anything special about the Sunbeam Tiger, in that it needs a special type of clutch? I am considering the RAM Musclecar clutch and the McLeod MCL75113 diaphram clutch from Summit Racing. I seem to remember Doug Jennings recommending a diaphragm clutch to me... David Kee Toploaders as a clutch made especially for Sunbeam Tigers, whatever that means. I would like to keep the expense of a clutch at or lower than the McLeod ($235). Does anyone have any experience with choosing a clutch for a Tiger? I would really appreciate your advice and opinions of the two clutch kits mentioned above (from Summit Racing), as well as the David Kee clutch. I also have to buy a pilot bearing and don't know if that was a special bearing for the Tiger only. Any idea? Thanks very much! Mauro _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2804 - Release Date: 04/12/10 06:32:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From m_dangelo at verizon.net Mon Apr 12 17:30:56 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 19:30:56 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <15F508DC00A04AF0959FE454EF93D63F@jerry> Message-ID: Thanks for the information. I noticed nobody talked about the McLeod or Ram clutches. Are the Centerforce clutches better than these for some reason? Thanks. Mauro B382001355LRXFE On 4/12/10 7:21 PM, "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" wrote: > Mauro, > You can upgrade to a more modern needle pilot bearing too. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Ron Fraser > Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 3:24 PM > To: m_dangelo at verizon.net; TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Cc: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > > Mauro > The Tiger engine, clutch and transmission are all Ford parts. There > is nothing special about the Tiger clutch. > The difference is whether you have a 5 bolt engine or a 6 bolt engine block. > The 5 bolt has a 10.5" flywheel and the 6 bolt has an 11" flywheel. > > Original pilot bearing - C2OA-7600-A I believe this bearing is used in > all 289 engines also. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of m_dangelo at verizon.net > Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 2:55 PM > To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Cc: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > > > Hi all. I am getting ready to buy a clutch for my 289 engine. The engine > is built to produce about 300HP (or just a bit less), so I am guessing I'll > need a clutch rated for more than stock power. I expect to drive the car > occasionally and at least 99% on the street. The flywheel is the old stock > 160 tooth flywheel, which has been resurfaced, by the way. So, I am a bit > clueless as to which clutch kit to buy. First, is there anything special > about the Sunbeam Tiger, in that it needs a special type of clutch? I am > considering the RAM Musclecar clutch and the McLeod MCL75113 diaphram clutch > from Summit Racing. I seem to remember Doug Jennings recommending a > diaphragm > clutch to me... David Kee Toploaders as a clutch made especially for > Sunbeam > Tigers, whatever that means. I would like to keep the expense of a clutch > at or lower than the McLeod ($235). Does anyone have any experience with > choosing a clutch for a Tiger? I would really appreciate your advice and > opinions of the two clutch kits mentioned above (from Summit Racing), as > well as the David Kee clutch. I also have to buy a pilot bearing and don't > know if that was a special bearing for the Tiger only. Any idea? Thanks > very much! Mauro _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2804 - Release Date: 04/12/10 > 06:32:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Mon Apr 12 17:32:50 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:32:50 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] LAT 4 In-Reply-To: <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> References: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> Message-ID: <4CE1F2FD090F424E870E8C85FBE529F5@jerry> You are right on the baffle thing, when I installed mine I had baffles welded in before installation. I could see right away that it wouldn't work very well without them. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce at kc.rr.com Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 1:27 PM To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Subject: Re: [Tigers] LAT 4 I was watching that. Those pans look to be brittle and no baffling in them to prevent oil sloshing around. I would consider one if the price were ~$200 and it had baffling. I will be going with a Canton on my 347. $999 is crazy money. It can go in a glass case with the MKII grill. Duke B382002037 ---- "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" wrote: > List, > > > > Well, someone stepped up to the plate and paid $999.00 for an oil pan (LAT > 4) on E-Bay. I thought I paid a lot when I bought mine for $100.00 (OK it's > been many many years ago).HA. > > > > Jerry Christopherson > > 9473187 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Mon Apr 12 17:37:49 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:37:49 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: References: <15F508DC00A04AF0959FE454EF93D63F@jerry> Message-ID: Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just fine. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: MAURO D'ANGELO [mailto:m_dangelo at verizon.net] Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 6:31 PM To: Jerry & Maureen (Mo); rfraser at bluefrog.com; TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 Thanks for the information. I noticed nobody talked about the McLeod or Ram clutches. Are the Centerforce clutches better than these for some reason? Thanks. Mauro B382001355LRXFE On 4/12/10 7:21 PM, "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" wrote: > Mauro, > You can upgrade to a more modern needle pilot bearing too. > > Jerry Christopherson > 9473187 > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Ron Fraser > Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 3:24 PM > To: m_dangelo at verizon.net; TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Cc: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > > Mauro > The Tiger engine, clutch and transmission are all Ford parts. There > is nothing special about the Tiger clutch. > The difference is whether you have a 5 bolt engine or a 6 bolt engine block. > The 5 bolt has a 10.5" flywheel and the 6 bolt has an 11" flywheel. > > Original pilot bearing - C2OA-7600-A I believe this bearing is used in > all 289 engines also. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of m_dangelo at verizon.net > Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 2:55 PM > To: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Cc: TIGERS at AUTOX.TEAM.NET > Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > > > Hi all. I am getting ready to buy a clutch for my 289 engine. The engine > is built to produce about 300HP (or just a bit less), so I am guessing I'll > need a clutch rated for more than stock power. I expect to drive the car > occasionally and at least 99% on the street. The flywheel is the old stock > 160 tooth flywheel, which has been resurfaced, by the way. So, I am a bit > clueless as to which clutch kit to buy. First, is there anything special > about the Sunbeam Tiger, in that it needs a special type of clutch? I am > considering the RAM Musclecar clutch and the McLeod MCL75113 diaphram clutch > from Summit Racing. I seem to remember Doug Jennings recommending a > diaphragm > clutch to me... David Kee Toploaders as a clutch made especially for > Sunbeam > Tigers, whatever that means. I would like to keep the expense of a clutch > at or lower than the McLeod ($235). Does anyone have any experience with > choosing a clutch for a Tiger? I would really appreciate your advice and > opinions of the two clutch kits mentioned above (from Summit Racing), as > well as the David Kee clutch. I also have to buy a pilot bearing and don't > know if that was a special bearing for the Tiger only. Any idea? Thanks > very much! Mauro _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2804 - Release Date: 04/12/10 > 06:32:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From s_ralsten at yahoo.com Mon Apr 12 17:44:52 2010 From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:44:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron In-Reply-To: <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> References: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> Message-ID: <190018.58463.qm@web114114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Thanks for the story. I certainly pull dumbshits from time to time also, usually right after the foolish thought passes through me that "I hardly ever make mistakes" At least your mistake was not related to a fatal jack stand/hydraulic jack error ________________________________ From: wsamouce To: TIGERS at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, April 12, 2010 2:54:05 PM Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron I would like to say this happened years ago but it was this last Saturday. I have been having issues with the 7" Girling brake booster for about 2 years now. My car was missing the booster when I bought it and I bought one from a great guy (name withheld). This booster has been off my car three times and back to (the guy) for rebuild and adjustment to try to get it working correctly. It kept applying slight pressure to the brakes which is really bad for gas mileage and brake pads and shoes. The brakes started dragging again shortly after putting it back on the car, I called the guy and told him I give up and am going to buy a new Lockheed booster. He tells me he will send me a 5" Girling booster to replace the 7" booster. I say OK . I received the booster last week and installed it on Saturday. I did some other mild work replacing a brake cylinder and the line that fed it. So, the new booster is on the car and ready for pressure bleeding. I use the Motive pressure bleeder. I pumped the bleeder up to 15 psi and went to bleed the first caliper....gurgle, gurgle.the pressure bleeder just went dry..WTH? There was at least three pints of brake fluid in it too???? I figure that the new booster is bad and all of the fluid went into the "can" of the booster. I pull the "new" booster off and put on a bypass line. I then bleed the brakes with no issues. Now I need to send both boosters back. I then try to start the engine, it cranked and then locks! WTF! The engine hydrolocked, all of the brake fluid was pumped through the booster, up the vacuum line, into the manifold and then the cylinders. I am seriously pissed at this point. I then pulled all of the spark plugs so I can get the damn brake fluid out of the engine. I put lots and lots of paper towels by each hole to hopefully catch the fluid as it is expelled. I hit the starter and with nothing short of explosions, brake fluid is blown all over me, the engine, engine compartment and the front half of the car. I lose it at this point and yell bad things so loud that my son comes out of the house to check on me. Not only am I worried that the engine is damaged but now have a clock ticking of ruining just about all of the paint on my car. A emergency wash down takes place, then soap and water..install the plugs, start the engine (smokes like hell), engine sound Ok..drive directly to the car wash where I spend $10 pressure washing every part of the car. Turns out, engine is OK and I believe all of the paint is safe. Time will tell on that. I changed the oil and filter. Purchased the new Lockheed booster from SS today. Lessoned learned. 1. Disconnect the vacuum line to the manifold when bleeding the system 2. Hand crank the engine if this ever happens again. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten at yahoo.com From milward at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 12 17:45:57 2010 From: milward at roadrunner.com (Bill Rogers Motorsport Memories) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] TBON Message-ID: The last three copies to sell on Ebay fetched between $825 and $900. There is currently one up for auction with another day and a half to go; it is at $575 and has not yet reached the reserve. BillRo From m_dangelo at verizon.net Mon Apr 12 17:53:46 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 19:53:46 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] clutch In-Reply-To: <4bc3a5ed.6bf5.0@thecia.net> Message-ID: ...Speaking of which, how do I know if I should use a 10 inch or 10.5 inch clutch? Someone mentioned 11 inches, but I don't know about that. The flywheel on my engine has bolt holes spaced just over 11 inches. Does a 10.5 inch clutch have more grabbing power than a 10 inch? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, does anyone have a part number for the needle roller pilot bearing? Thanks! Mauro B382001355LRXFE. On 4/12/10 6:59 PM, "rande" wrote: > I'd take the advice of getting the Centerforce. I haven't used one but all the > feedback I've heard is that it's the way to go with a built motor. > > I used a McLeod setup in my Oregon Mustang days ('65 2+2 289-4V > twice pipes) but I didn't beat on it, as I took it 50 miles each way to work > a few days a week. > > It had the 10.4" clutch disc that Tiger Mark II's and some Mark I's use (164 > tooth flywheel). You might ask others with the 347 motor what they used for > a clutch. > > By the way, Ron included the right part number for the Ford pilot bushing. > Someone > from Ford gave me a number for a later actual pilot bearing that he said > superceeds > the brass? bushing. > The number is D8TZ-7600-A I have one ready to install in my Tiger 1A (the > motor is a 4/67 289 C (2bbl). Has anyone used the newer pilot bearing in their > cars? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From srwick at hotmail.com Mon Apr 12 17:56:19 2010 From: srwick at hotmail.com (steve wick) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 16:56:19 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Book of Norman price poll (results) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I would guess they got it with the purchase of their Tiger. Do I win anything? Steve > Lastly, one respondent stated that the Book of Norman cost them $45,857.73. > Any guesses??? > > > Regards, Tom From arado7 at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 12 18:12:53 2010 From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:12:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron In-Reply-To: <20100412225223.81773187671@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <238544.32604.qm@web82703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Rebuilt mine in 1986. Use Dot5 silicon fluid. It's still as clean and sweet as then. Works flawlessly. gary B9472283 --- On Mon, 4/12/10, Marc James Small wrote: From: Marc James Small Subject: Re: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron To: "wsamouce" , tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 10:52 PM At 05:54 PM 4/12/2010, wsamouce wrote: >I would like to say this happened years ago but it was this last Saturday. > >I have been having issues with the 7" Girling brake booster for about 2 >years now. My car was missing the booster when I bought it and I bought one >from a great guy (name withheld). > >This booster has been off my car three times and back to (the guy) for >rebuild and adjustment to try to get it working correctly. It kept applying >slight pressure to the brakes which is really bad for gas mileage and brake >pads and shoes. I have rebuilt a number of the Girling Boosters, in both sizes, and I think I know what the fellow was doing wrong. These things are pretty simple to overhaul and the only requirements are the proper rebuilt kit, a lot of caution, and even more attention to detail. Of the dozen or so I have rebuilt, one did maintain residual pressure -- I took it apart and found that I had not properly cleaned the can, so that the piston was snagging slightly. A complete cleaning, five minutes with some ultra-fine sandpaper, and another complete cleaning, then reassembly and it worked fine. Girling boosters are really not that hard to overhaul, sort of on the same order as a Bosch K-Jetronic fuel-injection system. Surgical cleanliness is really necessary. Beyond that, though, it is not rocket science. But, yes, I would go for the Lockheed booster today -- the Girling Boosters were last made years back, I believe, and, unless you find a NIB example, the new unit is bound to be more reliable. Marc msmall at aya.yale.edu Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7 at sbcglobal.net From sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net Mon Apr 12 18:16:20 2010 From: sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net (David Sosna) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 17:16:20 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron In-Reply-To: <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> References: <1C7633BCA2364E008980EAC2F65B13CA@jerry> <20100412182726.7AOF6.181870.root@hrndva-web13-z01> <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BC3B7D4.2030308@cox.net> Duke: Whew! Reading your e-mail I had a mental image of you moving at about 90% of lightspeed to get the paint cleaned off. I'm glad there was no damage. Best Regards David Sosna wsamouce wrote: > I would like to say this happened years ago but it was this last Saturday. > > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5023 (20100412) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From tcprager at hotmail.com Mon Apr 12 18:21:34 2010 From: tcprager at hotmail.com (Tom Prager) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:21:34 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Brake booster Message-ID: I had my original booster rebuilt by White Post Restoration as they offer a lifetime warranty. Tom 9472154 Sent from my iPhone From michael.s.king at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 18:23:43 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:23:43 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: References: <15F508DC00A04AF0959FE454EF93D63F@jerry> Message-ID: On 13 April 2010 09:37, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: > Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block > was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just > fine. Well the AC Cobras and TVR's were probably a fair bit lighter... but i think clutch life largely depends on how hard you are leaning on the car and how you take off from the lights.. if driven normally most clutches will give good service.. if driven "sportingly" i'd go for the stronger options.. as a side note.. Mauro dont fret about the $235 on the clutch.. after you have pulled your motor out through the top of the car and put it back in i am sure you will decide that a few more $ for the clucth is worth more than having to go through a Tiger engine pull sonner than need be. -- Regards Michael King From m_dangelo at verizon.net Mon Apr 12 18:58:05 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 20:58:05 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Thanks. I agree about other cars (TVR and Cobra) weighing less than the Tiger. I understood that Jerry was probably thinking of classic American cars that also used the SBF, like Fairlane, Galaxie, Falcon, Mustang, etc. I have not decided whether to pull the engine from the top or the bottom yet, actually. Either way, please don9t forget that my own time and effort costs me nothing (financially), so until I can afford my own Aston Martin, I plan to rule my own budget with an iron fist, but intelligently. If I can get away with $179 or $235 for a clutch that does absolutely everything I need it to do anything more would just be overkill -- then it makes no sense to spend any more (the world according to Mauro). Mind you, I9m not talking about skimping where skimping would affect the quality of the build. On the contrary. If you had any idea how much I have in the engine itself, you might be surprised. Incidentally, the reason I decided to press forward with the installation of the 289 is that the clutch on my 260 has begun to slip (takes a while to grab). I9m kind of bummed because the 260 is running fine. I think it9s due to the close ratio transmission paired with the tall rear gear. In this regard, is there any adjustment in the clutch of the Tiger? If I could shorten the rod a bit, it might help. Also, I was wondering, is there ANY way to replace a Tiger9s clutch without removing the engine? I9d do that for the time being if I could. Any ideas? Thanks. Mauro On 4/12/10 8:23 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 13 April 2010 09:37, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: >> Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block >> was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just >> fine. > > Well the AC Cobras and TVR's were probably a fair bit lighter... but i think > clutch life largely depends on how hard you are leaning on the car and how you > take off from the lights.. if driven normally most clutches will give good > service.. if driven "sportingly" i'd go for the stronger options.. as a side > note.. > > Mauro dont fret about the $235 on the clutch.. after you have pulled your > motor out through the top of the car and put it back in i am sure you will > decide that a few more $ for the clucth is worth more than having to go > through a Tiger engine pull sonner than need be. > > From CoolVT at aol.com Mon Apr 12 20:27:12 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 22:27:12 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 Message-ID: <1ebd8.5bf450da.38f53080@aol.com> Maurao, I would suggest you talk with Tom Hall _ModTiger at comcast.net_ (mailto:ModTiger at comcast.net) regarding the clutch rod length. He supplied me with a custom rod that increased my throw a little and solved my problem. mark In a message dated 4/12/2010 10:00:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, m_dangelo at verizon.net writes: Thanks. I agree about other cars (TVR and Cobra) weighing less than the Tiger. I understood that Jerry was probably thinking of classic American cars that also used the SBF, like Fairlane, Galaxie, Falcon, Mustang, etc. I have not decided whether to pull the engine from the top or the bottom yet, actually. Either way, please don9t forget that my own time and effort costs me nothing (financially), so until I can afford my own Aston Martin, I plan to rule my own budget with an iron fist, but intelligently. If I can get away with $179 or $235 for a clutch that does absolutely everything I need it to do anything more would just be overkill -- then it makes no sense to spend any more (the world according to Mauro). Mind you, I9m not talking about skimping where skimping would affect the quality of the build. On the contrary. If you had any idea how much I have in the engine itself, you might be surprised. Incidentally, the reason I decided to press forward with the installation of the 289 is that the clutch on my 260 has begun to slip (takes a while to grab). I9m kind of bummed because the 260 is running fine. I think it9s due to the close ratio transmission paired with the tall rear gear. In this regard, is there any adjustment in the clutch of the Tiger? If I could shorten the rod a bit, it might help. Also, I was wondering, is there ANY way to replace a Tiger9s clutch without removing the engine? I9d do that for the time being if I could. Any ideas? Thanks. Mauro On 4/12/10 8:23 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 13 April 2010 09:37, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: >> Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block >> was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just >> fine. > > Well the AC Cobras and TVR's were probably a fair bit lighter... but i think > clutch life largely depends on how hard you are leaning on the car and how you > take off from the lights.. if driven normally most clutches will give good > service.. if driven "sportingly" i'd go for the stronger options.. as a side > note.. > > Mauro dont fret about the $235 on the clutch.. after you have pulled your > motor out through the top of the car and put it back in i am sure you will > decide that a few more $ for the clucth is worth more than having to go > through a Tiger engine pull sonner than need be. > > _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Apr 12 20:47:59 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 22:47:59 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron In-Reply-To: <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> Message-ID: <3C5A668CFB934F64BDB3A10DA9572F89@ronpc1> Duke Nothing worse then having a bad day on the Tiger. Most of us have been there at one time or another. If you have clear coat on the paint; the brake fluid might not even touch it. I would recommend you drive the Tiger for at least 20 minuets to make sure all the brake fluid is out of the engine and exhaust system. You may have already done this; if so then kick back with a cold one. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 5:54 PM To: TIGERS at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron I would like to say this happened years ago but it was this last Saturday. I have been having issues with the 7" Girling brake booster for about 2 years now. My car was missing the booster when I bought it and I bought one from a great guy (name withheld). This booster has been off my car three times and back to (the guy) for rebuild and adjustment to try to get it working correctly. It kept applying slight pressure to the brakes which is really bad for gas mileage and brake pads and shoes. The brakes started dragging again shortly after putting it back on the car, I called the guy and told him I give up and am going to buy a new Lockheed booster. He tells me he will send me a 5" Girling booster to replace the 7" booster. I say OK . I received the booster last week and installed it on Saturday. I did some other mild work replacing a brake cylinder and the line that fed it. So, the new booster is on the car and ready for pressure bleeding. I use the Motive pressure bleeder. I pumped the bleeder up to 15 psi and went to bleed the first caliper....gurgle, gurgle.the pressure bleeder just went dry..WTH? There was at least three pints of brake fluid in it too???? I figure that the new booster is bad and all of the fluid went into the "can" of the booster. I pull the "new" booster off and put on a bypass line. I then bleed the brakes with no issues. Now I need to send both boosters back. I then try to start the engine, it cranked and then locks! WTF! The engine hydrolocked, all of the brake fluid was pumped through the booster, up the vacuum line, into the manifold and then the cylinders. I am seriously pissed at this point. I then pulled all of the spark plugs so I can get the damn brake fluid out of the engine. I put lots and lots of paper towels by each hole to hopefully catch the fluid as it is expelled. I hit the starter and with nothing short of explosions, brake fluid is blown all over me, the engine, engine compartment and the front half of the car. I lose it at this point and yell bad things so loud that my son comes out of the house to check on me. Not only am I worried that the engine is damaged but now have a clock ticking of ruining just about all of the paint on my car. A emergency wash down takes place, then soap and water..install the plugs, start the engine (smokes like hell), engine sound Ok..drive directly to the car wash where I spend $10 pressure washing every part of the car. Turns out, engine is OK and I believe all of the paint is safe. Time will tell on that. I changed the oil and filter. Purchased the new Lockheed booster from SS today. Lessoned learned. 1. Disconnect the vacuum line to the manifold when bleeding the system 2. Hand crank the engine if this ever happens again. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2804 - Release Date: 04/12/10 06:32:00 From michael.s.king at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 22:20:39 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:20:39 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Confessions of a moron In-Reply-To: <3C5A668CFB934F64BDB3A10DA9572F89@ronpc1> References: <000301cada8a$ac47f760$04d7e620$@rr.com> <3C5A668CFB934F64BDB3A10DA9572F89@ronpc1> Message-ID: You can always look at it in a positive light.. you gave the car a good wash... you decoked the valves (though you did the heads recently) and you got some good cardio exercise -- Regards Michael King From marcsmall at comcast.net Mon Apr 12 23:49:24 2010 From: marcsmall at comcast.net (Marc James Small) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 01:49:24 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Brake booster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20100413055202.6AC38187671@autox.team.net> At 08:21 PM 4/12/2010, Tom Prager wrote: >I had my original booster rebuilt by White Post Restoration as they >offer a lifetime warranty. > >Tom >9472154 Great folks. Expensive but, what the hey, perfection costs money. Marc msmall at aya.yale.edu Cha robh b`s fir gun ghr`s fir! From michael.s.king at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 00:41:45 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 16:41:45 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Brake booster In-Reply-To: <20100413055202.6AC38187671@autox.team.net> References: <20100413055202.6AC38187671@autox.team.net> Message-ID: > Great folks. Expensive but, what the hey, perfection costs money. > > Marc > Expensive is a comparative term.. much cheaper to have to do something only once.. the pain of the price is forgoten after years of faithful service... that said i dont run boosters on either of my sunbeams. -- Regards Michael King From Greg.Koss at TRW.COM Tue Apr 13 06:20:44 2010 From: Greg.Koss at TRW.COM (Greg Koss) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:20:44 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC4295B.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> Yes, the clutch can be replaced without removing the engine. During my "no money " college days, I replaced the clutch in my driveway, by myself, lying on the ground. The shifter and linkage must be removed from the transmission, the trans must be separated from the bell housing. I believe I may have cut holes in tunnel to access top bolts. Boy! Toploaders are heavy lying on your back. >>> MAURO D'ANGELO 4/12/2010 8:58 PM >>> Thanks. I agree about other cars (TVR and Cobra) weighing less than the Tiger. I understood that Jerry was probably thinking of classic American cars that also used the SBF, like Fairlane, Galaxie, Falcon, Mustang, etc. I have not decided whether to pull the engine from the top or the bottom yet, actually. Either way, please don9t forget that my own time and effort costs me nothing (financially), so until I can afford my own Aston Martin, I plan to rule my own budget with an iron fist, but intelligently. If I can get away with $179 or $235 for a clutch that does absolutely everything I need it to do anything more would just be overkill -- then it makes no sense to spend any more (the world according to Mauro). Mind you, I9m not talking about skimping where skimping would affect the quality of the build. On the contrary. If you had any idea how much I have in the engine itself, you might be surprised. Incidentally, the reason I decided to press forward with the installation of the 289 is that the clutch on my 260 has begun to slip (takes a while to grab). I9m kind of bummed because the 260 is running fine. I think it9s due to the close ratio transmission paired with the tall rear gear. In this regard, is there any adjustment in the clutch of the Tiger? If I could shorten the rod a bit, it might help. Also, I was wondering, is there ANY way to replace a Tiger9s clutch without removing the engine? I9d do that for the time being if I could. Any ideas? Thanks. Mauro On 4/12/10 8:23 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 13 April 2010 09:37, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: >> Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block >> was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just >> fine. > > Well the AC Cobras and TVR's were probably a fair bit lighter... but i think > clutch life largely depends on how hard you are leaning on the car and how you > take off from the lights.. if driven normally most clutches will give good > service.. if driven "sportingly" i'd go for the stronger options.. as a side > note.. > > Mauro dont fret about the $235 on the clutch.. after you have pulled your > motor out through the top of the car and put it back in i am sure you will > decide that a few more $ for the clucth is worth more than having to go > through a Tiger engine pull sonner than need be. > > _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/greg.koss at trw.com From twojohnsons at cox.net Tue Apr 13 06:54:36 2010 From: twojohnsons at cox.net (Alvin Johnson) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:54:36 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] In the Clutch References: <15F508DC00A04AF0959FE454EF93D63F@jerry> Message-ID: <4E9F7BD7976D4960841FE57512DA7ADD@3bfd27b5ca44402> The attached observation is just not so---especially if you're still stuck running those damned stupid 288 rear ends---it's like starting in second gear, and when my Tiger was a daily driver, I went through clutches regularly. I once ordered a Ford clutch & pressure plate from McLeod only to have it quickly fail. When I called to complain, their tech guy said that I should've ordered a Sunbeam Tiger clutch---there was some sort of difference in the weights on the pressure plate. They warranteed the Ford piece & the Tiger replacement worked just fine---may still be, for all I know. >> Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block >> was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just >> fine. From mark.rense at ge.com Tue Apr 13 07:07:28 2010 From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:07:28 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mauro, Here are my recommendations based on many years of building SB Fords. I prefer the Centerforce systems because they work, they last and there is considerably LESS effort at the pedal, something my gimped left hip truly appreciates. These numbers are for any Tiger with 157 tooth flywheel. Centerforce I - good up to 250HP Pressure Plate Part # CF360030 Summit Racing price = $134.95 Centerforce II - for 300+ HP Pressure Plate Part # CFT360030 Summit Racing price = $154.50 Both use the same friction plate: Disc #280490 Summit Racing price = $87.75 Always replace your throw-out bearing: N1439 Summit Racing price = $34.75 Unless you have an old transmission input shaft handy, buy the alignment tool 52010 Summit Racing price = $7.99 If your 289 is going to spin past 6500 RPM, I strongly suggest a racing flywheel, as the OEM cast units can shatter. Bugz -----Original Message----- From: MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Monday, April 12, 2010 8:58 PM To: michael king; Jerry & Maureen (Mo) Cc: TIGERS at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 I have not decided whether to pull the engine from the top or the bottom yet, actually. Either way, please don9t forget that my own time and effort costs me nothing (financially), so until I can afford my own Aston Martin, I plan to rule my own budget with an iron fist, but intelligently. If I can get away with $179 or $235 for a clutch that does absolutely everything I need it to do anything more would just be overkill -- then it makes no sense to spend any more (the world according to Mauro). Mind you, I9m not talking about skimping where skimping would affect the quality of the build. On the contrary. If you had any idea how much I have in the engine itself, you might be surprised. Incidentally, the reason I decided to press forward with the installation of the 289 is that the clutch on my 260 has begun to slip (takes a while to grab). I9m kind of bummed because the 260 is running fine. I think it9s due to the close ratio transmission paired with the tall rear gear. In this regard, is there any adjustment in the clutch of the Tiger? If I could shorten the rod a bit, it might help. Also, I was wondering, is there ANY way to replace a Tiger9s clutch without removing the engine? I9d do that for the time being if I could. Any ideas? Thanks. Mauro From Carmods at aol.com Tue Apr 13 07:25:11 2010 From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:25:11 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Clutch Pilot Bearing Message-ID: rande at thecia.net writes: Has anyone used the newer pilot bearing in their cars? I have always used the ball type pilot bearing. They last much longer and are easier on the transmission input shaft. John Logan From CoolVT at aol.com Tue Apr 13 07:25:27 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:25:27 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 Message-ID: I think the CAT notes had an article that gave the exact locations to drill holes to get at the top bolts. M In a message dated 4/13/2010 9:00:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Greg.Koss at TRW.COM writes: Yes, the clutch can be replaced without removing the engine. During my "no money " college days, I replaced the clutch in my driveway, by myself, lying on the ground. The shifter and linkage must be removed from the transmission, the trans must be separated from the bell housing. I believe I may have cut holes in tunnel to access top bolts. Boy! Toploaders are heavy lying on your back. >>> MAURO D'ANGELO 4/12/2010 8:58 PM >>> Thanks. I agree about other cars (TVR and Cobra) weighing less than the Tiger. I understood that Jerry was probably thinking of classic American cars that also used the SBF, like Fairlane, Galaxie, Falcon, Mustang, etc. I have not decided whether to pull the engine from the top or the bottom yet, actually. Either way, please don9t forget that my own time and effort costs me nothing (financially), so until I can afford my own Aston Martin, I plan to rule my own budget with an iron fist, but intelligently. If I can get away with $179 or $235 for a clutch that does absolutely everything I need it to do anything more would just be overkill -- then it makes no sense to spend any more (the world according to Mauro). Mind you, I9m not talking about skimping where skimping would affect the quality of the build. On the contrary. If you had any idea how much I have in the engine itself, you might be surprised. Incidentally, the reason I decided to press forward with the installation of the 289 is that the clutch on my 260 has begun to slip (takes a while to grab). I9m kind of bummed because the 260 is running fine. I think it9s due to the close ratio transmission paired with the tall rear gear. In this regard, is there any adjustment in the clutch of the Tiger? If I could shorten the rod a bit, it might help. Also, I was wondering, is there ANY way to replace a Tiger9s clutch without removing the engine? I9d do that for the time being if I could. Any ideas? Thanks. Mauro On 4/12/10 8:23 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 13 April 2010 09:37, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: >> Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block >> was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just >> fine. > > Well the AC Cobras and TVR's were probably a fair bit lighter... but i think > clutch life largely depends on how hard you are leaning on the car and how you > take off from the lights.. if driven normally most clutches will give good > service.. if driven "sportingly" i'd go for the stronger options.. as a side > note.. > > Mauro dont fret about the $235 on the clutch.. after you have pulled your > motor out through the top of the car and put it back in i am sure you will > decide that a few more $ for the clucth is worth more than having to go > through a Tiger engine pull sonner than need be. > > _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/greg.koss at trw.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 07:38:02 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:38:02 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Best_Clutch_Kit_289?= Message-ID: <20100413133802.BC290187654@autox.team.net> Yeah, we all did that trick. At least twice. Then we got a hoist and a lift!! Best, ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Greg Koss" Date: Tue, Apr 13, 2010 07:20 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 To: Yes, the clutch can be replaced without removing the engine. During my "no money " college days, I replaced the clutch in my driveway, by myself, lying on the ground. The shifter and linkage must be removed from the transmission, the trans must be separated from the bell housing. I believe I may have cut holes in tunnel to access top bolts. Boy! Toploaders are heavy lying on your back. >>> MAURO D'ANGELO 4/12/2010 8:58 PM >>> Thanks. I agree about other cars (TVR and Cobra) weighing less than the Tiger. I understood that Jerry was probably thinking of classic American cars that also used the SBF, like Fairlane, Galaxie, Falcon, Mustang, etc. I have not decided whether to pull the engine from the top or the bottom yet, actually. Either way, please don9t forget that my own time and effort costs me nothing (financially), so until I can afford my own Aston Martin, I plan to rule my own budget with an iron fist, but intelligently. If I can get away with $179 or $235 for a clutch that does absolutely everything I need it to do anything more would just be overkill -- then it makes no sense to spend any more (the world according to Mauro). Mind you, I9m not talking about skimping where skimping would affect the quality of the build. On the contrary. If you had any idea how much I have in the engine itself, you might be surprised. Incidentally, the reason I decided to press forward with the installation of the 289 is that the clutch on my 260 has begun to slip (takes a while to grab). I9m kind of bummed because the 260 is running fine. I think it9s due to the close ratio transmission paired with the tall rear gear. In this regard, is there any adjustment in the clutch of the Tiger? If I could shorten the rod a bit, it might help. Also, I was wondering, is there ANY way to replace a Tiger9s clutch without removing the engine? I9d do that for the time being if I could. Any ideas? Thanks. Mauro On 4/12/10 8:23 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 13 April 2010 09:37, Jerry & Maureen (Mo) wrote: >> Seeing as the Tiger is probably the lightest vehicle that the small block >> was ever put in, just about any pressure & clutch plate would work just >> fine. > > Well the AC Cobras and TVR's were probably a fair bit lighter... but i think > clutch life largely depends on how hard you are leaning on the car and how you > take off from the lights.. if driven normally most clutches will give good > service.. if driven "sportingly" i'd go for the stronger options.. as a side > note.. > > Mauro dont fret about the $235 on the clutch.. after you have pulled your > motor out through the top of the car and put it back in i am sure you will > decide that a few more $ for the clucth is worth more than having to go > through a Tiger engine pull sonner than need be. > > _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/greg.koss at trw.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Tue Apr 13 07:58:46 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:58:46 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <4BC4295B.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> References: <4BC4295B.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEBEEE@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Greg, Did you ever own B382002705? It had two or three big holes cut into the transmission tunnel... I welded patches back in. Not the prettiest job but it's better than the unstoppable draft from the engine compartment. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Koss > Sent: April 13, 2010 6:21 AM > To: TIGERS at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > > Yes, the clutch can be replaced without removing the engine. During my > "no > money " college days, I replaced the clutch in my driveway, by myself, > lying > on the ground. The shifter and linkage must be removed from the > transmission, > the trans must be separated from the bell housing. I believe I may > have cut > holes in tunnel to access top bolts. Boy! Toploaders are heavy lying > on your > back. > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From Greg.Koss at TRW.COM Tue Apr 13 08:11:50 2010 From: Greg.Koss at TRW.COM (Greg Koss) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:11:50 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEBEEE@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> References: <4BC4295B.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEBEEE@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: <4BC44363.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> No, still have all my tigers. >>> "Smit, Theo" 4/13/2010 9:58 AM >>> Greg, Did you ever own B382002705? It had two or three big holes cut into the transmission tunnel... I welded patches back in. Not the prettiest job but it's better than the unstoppable draft from the engine compartment. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Koss > Sent: April 13, 2010 6:21 AM > To: TIGERS at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > > Yes, the clutch can be replaced without removing the engine. During my > "no > money " college days, I replaced the clutch in my driveway, by myself, > lying > on the ground. The shifter and linkage must be removed from the > transmission, > the trans must be separated from the bell housing. I believe I may > have cut > holes in tunnel to access top bolts. Boy! Toploaders are heavy lying > on your > back. > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Tue Apr 13 08:59:03 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 9:59:03 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> I check the archives and did not find a good answer (for me) on this. My 1991 347 has been balanced to 28 oz with a flexplate. The flexplate has a 1" X 2" weight welded to it with some of the material drilled out. I have a 65 6 bolt aluminum bell housing that I will have modified for my toploader. I have the following questions - 1. Is a 157 tooth flywheel correct for this application? 2. I want use a centerforce flywheel, which would be best? 3. Does the engine need to be re-balanced with a flywheel vs. the flexplate? 4. Do I use a 10.5 or 11" clutch? TIA! Duke B382002037 From rootes1 at earthlink.net Tue Apr 13 09:59:20 2010 From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman C. Miller) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:59:20 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] HONORING Message-ID: http://gvoqra.bay.livefilestore.com/y1px6er4wLbvfyMeHrmlZzkTwk7MuU1rARISqJHe29HKdJfrnR_tv8WQPVWWfeolmnR8Xsziq7hzY2LOfU8mua_yJEdjCPSern0/memorial.jpg Norm From spmdr at juno.com Tue Apr 13 10:24:14 2010 From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:24:14 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Clutch notes Message-ID: <20100413.092439.328.0.spmdr@juno.com> One thing to keep an eye on is the thickness of the disc. If the disc is too thick (squeezable) you run out of travel with the hydraulic system and the clutch engages at the floor. And, Yes, you can change the clutch in the car without pulling the engine. Headers complicate the job, but it's doable. DW ____________________________________________________________ Bad Celebrity surgery! You don't need injections. Look younger with doctor-designed formulas. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc49af77bfe63e445m07vuc From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Tue Apr 13 10:39:36 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:39:36 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion In-Reply-To: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> References: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEBFA9@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> If the 28 oz-in. flexplate was properly in spec (i.e. it has the right mass at the right angular offset relative to the way the crank bolt holes are drilled) then you should be able to substitute a 28 oz-in. flywheel without problems. Balancing the engine requires it to be fully disassembled, so unless you have a reason to think it might not be as specified, it's certainly more excpedient to put it together as-is and see... Then again, it's just a short block at this point, right? If you're not in a rush and want to be sure everything is up to snuff then it's not a lot of extra work to pull it apart. I used an aluminum RAM 157 tooth flywheel on my 5.0. I think that for any uprated application (and really, given the Tiger's flywheel location relative to your feet, it's a good idea for every rebuild) an SFI rated steel or aluminum flywhweel is a must... your choice as to weight. On the 157 tooth flywheel a 10.5" clutch is standard, although some might be drilled with a dual pattern so you can use an 11 inch clutch. I have the Ford Motorsports Cobra clutch on mine and it's heavier than I'd like... Theo > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From owain.lloyd at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 10:40:32 2010 From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 18:40:32 +0200 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion In-Reply-To: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> References: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Message-ID: based on my own experience (for what its worth...): yes, 157 unless you have a particularly odd bell housing. do you have the part no? no need to rebalance if you are sure its balanced well for 28"oz. not sure about centreforce, but the mcleod flyweels have removable weights for zero, 28, 50"oz balance. billet steel works well unless you really want aluminum. aluminum makes driving the car quite hard, especially with the tiger pedals and your size - better for all out race cars i think. its easier to rev match down shifts with a steel flywheel. i have a steel one and the engine still revs extremely quickly as it breaths well. use a 10" or 10.5" clutch. 10" is actually fine on the tiger but i found the mcleod flywheel was only drilled for 10.5" dowels. it had holes tapped for the 10" pressure plate though so i used it without dowels. it has no vibrations and is smooth. it's taken a good beating for a couple of years (Centreforce II) and is still fine. check the flywheel holes but 10.5" is more common. 10" is stock tiger. no sure about 11" - it might not even fit on a 157 tooth flywheel. On Tue, Apr 13, 2010 at 4:59 PM, wrote: > I check the archives and did not find a good answer (for me) on this. > > My 1991 347 has been balanced to 28 oz with a flexplate. The flexplate has > a 1" X 2" weight welded to it with some of the material drilled out. I have > a 65 6 bolt aluminum bell housing that I will have modified for my > toploader. > > I have the following questions - > > 1. Is a 157 tooth flywheel correct for this application? > 2. I want use a centerforce flywheel, which would be best? > 3. Does the engine need to be re-balanced with a flywheel vs. the > flexplate? > 4. Do I use a 10.5 or 11" clutch? > > TIA! > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com From rfraser at bluefrog.com Tue Apr 13 11:08:30 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:08:30 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion In-Reply-To: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Message-ID: Duke I have never gone through the balancing process but I highly recommend it. I suggest you talk to a shop that does that kind of work. Early V8s were balanced to 28 oz; beginning in 1985 balance was changed to 50 oz. My 260 flywheel has a casting # C3OE-6380B and the ring gear is 13.25" OD, Ford P/N is C4OZ-6375-A clutch disc is 10" OD, Ford P/N is C3OZ-7550-A I don't have much information about flywheels and bellhousings; so I suggest you assemble the flywheel and bellhousing on the engine and see if the starter engages the flywheel. Actually you can do this with the flywheel, clutch cover plate and the starter. If the starter will engage the ring gear correctly your OK; if not you need a different flywheel. Hope this helps some. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce at kc.rr.com Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 10:59 AM To: TIGERS at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion I check the archives and did not find a good answer (for me) on this. My 1991 347 has been balanced to 28 oz with a flexplate. The flexplate has a 1" X 2" weight welded to it with some of the material drilled out. I have a 65 6 bolt aluminum bell housing that I will have modified for my toploader. I have the following questions - 1. Is a 157 tooth flywheel correct for this application? 2. I want use a centerforce flywheel, which would be best? 3. Does the engine need to be re-balanced with a flywheel vs. the flexplate? 4. Do I use a 10.5 or 11" clutch? TIA! Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/13/10 06:32:00 From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Tue Apr 13 11:55:18 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:55:18 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion - MORE INFO In-Reply-To: <4BC44363.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> References: <4BC4295B.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEBEEE@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> <4BC44363.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> Message-ID: <000001cadb32$7ad11150$707333f0$@rr.com> Here are the two document I received with the engine. This should answer some questions. http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Image16.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Image17.jpg Thanks! Duke B382002037 From atwittsend at verizon.net Tue Apr 13 12:12:54 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:12:54 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] HONORING References: Message-ID: I never personally met Dick Barker. I did however have correspondence with him when I bought my Tiger. The car had been stored at Smitty's and he was familiar with it. Dick took the time to relay a rather amusing story of how this near basket case was brought to Smitty's and the PO had thought $5,000 would have restored it. Thus, when Dick found out the car had gotten into my hands he seemed to take an interest in this extensive project. I certainly appreciated his encouragement knowing the task that lay ahead. Even after he left the list as a regular I sporadically heard from him and again his words encouraged. My condolences to his family and friends who knew him well. Tom From slaifman at socal.rr.com Tue Apr 13 12:56:36 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:56:36 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] HONORING Dick Barker In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC4BE64.6020509@socal.rr.com> Thanks to Norman for the honorarium to a great Tiger Enthusiast, Dick Barker. The his car shown is the Tiger Le Mans Mule test bed. TigersUnited.com has a great many references to Dick, which can be found with the SEARCH magnifying glass at the header bar. Just enter his name. Here is one link by Dick, amongst many: http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/barker_d/default.asp Dick, it was a genuine pleasure in knowing you. Steve Laifman Norman C. Miller wrote: > http://gvoqra.bay.livefilestore.com/y1px6er4wLbvfyMeHrmlZzkTwk7MuU1rARISqJHe29HKdJfrnR_tv8WQPVWWfeolmnR8Xsziq7hzY2LOfU8mua_yJEdjCPSern0/memorial.jpg > > > Norm From mgman71 at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 13:10:11 2010 From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:10:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Rubber plugs? Message-ID: <239454409.5551151271185811169.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hello has anyone come up with a list of what size holes are in the body and need to be pluged and how any of each size? Thanks George From sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net Tue Apr 13 13:28:29 2010 From: sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net (David Sosna) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 12:28:29 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] HONORING In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC4C5DD.6090000@cox.net> Norm: That was a nice thing you did. Best Regards David Sosna Norman C. Miller wrote: > http://gvoqra.bay.livefilestore.com/y1px6er4wLbvfyMeHrmlZzkTwk7MuU1rARISqJHe29HKdJfrnR_tv8WQPVWWfeolmnR8Xsziq7hzY2LOfU8mua_yJEdjCPSern0/memorial.jpg > > > Norm > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5026 (20100413) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From mgman71 at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 15:40:08 2010 From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:40:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. Message-ID: <645980585.5632691271194808155.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken does anyone know if there are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made does anyone know of a spring shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. Thanks Again George From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Tue Apr 13 16:17:23 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 17:17:23 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion In-Reply-To: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> References: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Message-ID: <10278A872F0C441D852C6566731EF616@jerry> I also have a 1991 engine (roller blocks the only way to go); I used the stock 50oz weight. The only problem I see with yours is when it was balanced they may have drilled on the flexplate to get the balance correct (as evidenced by fresh drilling on the offset weight bar) if that is the case then installing a flywheel would upset the balance as the new wheel would not have the new "balance" as the flexplate did. As another lister suggested you might be better off to have it rebalanced with the flywheel this time. Something I had done when mine was balanced was to balance everything in the engine first without the pressure plate (clutchplate), and then balance with the pressureplate on and any differences in weight was taken off the pressureplate. That way whenever I change the clutch out it would not have as much effect on the balance of the engine. Granted a new pressureplate might be a little off, but it's been on there 10 years so far. It would be nice if the "balancers" had a way of balancing a clutchplate by itself to "0" that way you would have no problem on changing out clutchplates. Hope this helps Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce at kc.rr.com Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:59 AM To: TIGERS at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion I check the archives and did not find a good answer (for me) on this. My 1991 347 has been balanced to 28 oz with a flexplate. The flexplate has a 1" X 2" weight welded to it with some of the material drilled out. I have a 65 6 bolt aluminum bell housing that I will have modified for my toploader. I have the following questions - 1. Is a 157 tooth flywheel correct for this application? 2. I want use a centerforce flywheel, which would be best? 3. Does the engine need to be re-balanced with a flywheel vs. the flexplate? 4. Do I use a 10.5 or 11" clutch? TIA! Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From michael.s.king at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 17:06:52 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 09:06:52 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion - MORE INFO In-Reply-To: <000001cadb32$7ad11150$707333f0$@rr.com> References: <4BC4295B.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEBEEE@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> <4BC44363.880C.0076.1@TRW.COM> <000001cadb32$7ad11150$707333f0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Duke, Which scat crank and which rods? On 14 April 2010 03:55, wsamouce wrote: > Here are the two document I received with the engine. > > This should answer some questions. > > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Image16.jpg > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/Image17.jpg > > Thanks! > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Apr 13 17:17:31 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 23:17:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion In-Reply-To: <10278A872F0C441D852C6566731EF616@jerry> Message-ID: <1149243265.11383471271200650805.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> you don't need a full rebalance no matter what. only the harmonic, crank, flywheel. if you don't spot drilling use the wheel as is. you might want to call wherever the crate engine came from and ask if they did any stuff to the wheel. Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry & Maureen (Mo)" To: wsamouce at kc.rr.com, TIGERS at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:17:23 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion I also have a 1991 engine (roller blocks the only way to go); I used the stock 50oz weight. The only problem I see with yours is when it was balanced they may have drilled on the flexplate to get the balance correct (as evidenced by fresh drilling on the offset weight bar) if that is the case then installing a flywheel would upset the balance as the new wheel would not have the new "balance" as the flexplate did. As another lister suggested you might be better off to have it rebalanced with the flywheel this time. Something I had done when mine was balanced was to balance everything in the engine first without the pressure plate (clutchplate), and then balance with the pressureplate on and any differences in weight was taken off the pressureplate. B That way whenever I change the clutch out it would not have as much effect on the balance of the engine. Granted a new pressureplate might be a little off, but it's been on there 10 years so far. It would be nice if the "balancers" had a way of balancing a clutchplate by itself to "0" that way you would have no problem on changing out clutchplates. Hope this helps Jerry Christopherson 9473187 B B B B -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce at kc.rr.com Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:59 AM To: TIGERS at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion I check the archives and did not find a good answer (for me) on this. My 1991 347 has been balanced to 28 oz with a flexplate. B The flexplate has a 1" X 2" weight welded to it with some of the material drilled out. B I have a 65 6 bolt aluminum bell housing that I will have modified for my toploader. I have the following questions - 1. Is a 157 tooth flywheel correct for this application? 2. I want use a centerforce flywheel, which would be best? 3. Does the engine need to be re-balanced with a flywheel vs. the flexplate? 4. Do I use a 10.5 or 11" clutch? TIA! Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From m_dangelo at verizon.net Tue Apr 13 17:57:48 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:57:48 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Long or diaphragm clutch pressure plate??? In-Reply-To: <10278A872F0C441D852C6566731EF616@jerry> Message-ID: Hi all, OK, so I am getting closer to deciding on a clutch for my Tiger... Now I have just two questions left. First, is anyone running a diaphragm pressure plate? I think Doug Jennings recommended that over the stock Long one. I meant to call him today but did not have a chance. Anyone have any idea if the diaphragm is better than the stock Long type? Second question: I'm looking at the RAM Muscle Car clutch (Long) and the McLeod 75113 (diaphragm) at Summit Racing. The Ram has a 10.5 inch disc, and the McLeod a 10 inch disc. Will the 10.5 inch work with my stock 160 (157) tooth flywheel? Is there any noticeable benefit to going with the larger disc? I wish this were an easy decision! Thanks a lot for the help! Mauro From jim at island.net Tue Apr 13 19:05:04 2010 From: jim at island.net (Jim) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 18:05:04 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Long or diaphragm clutch pressure plate??? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mauro I highly recommend the Centerforce dual friction diaphram . Less pedal pressure than the 'long' style . I've had mine for 2 Years... 1 year with stock 2.32 top Loader... 1 year with 2.95 T 5... No problem at all ! Stock flywheel with 157T ring gear and 400 hp Jim Sent from my iPhone On 2010-04-13, at 4:57 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > Hi all, > > OK, so I am getting closer to deciding on a clutch for my Tiger... > Now I > have just two questions left. First, is anyone running a diaphragm > pressure > plate? I think Doug Jennings recommended that over the stock Long > one. I > meant to call him today but did not have a chance. Anyone have any > idea if > the diaphragm is better than the stock Long type? > > Second question: I'm looking at the RAM Muscle Car clutch (Long) > and the > McLeod 75113 (diaphragm) at Summit Racing. The Ram has a 10.5 inch > disc, > and the McLeod a 10 inch disc. Will the 10.5 inch work with my > stock 160 > (157) tooth flywheel? Is there any noticeable benefit to going with > the > larger disc? I wish this were an easy decision! > > Thanks a lot for the help! > > Mauro > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jim at island.net From rfraser at bluefrog.com Tue Apr 13 19:35:53 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:35:53 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Long or diaphragm clutch pressure plate??? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Mauro It is my understanding that the diaphragm style applies more even pressure to the disc, works better over a larger rpm range and has a lighter clutch action. The long style has 3 arms that release the clutch disc; can be stiff to clutch at high rpm and generally has a heavier clutch action. The diaphragm style clutch is the current choice in most of today's cars. Pressure plate is generally the same diameter and the disc plate; measure your pressure plate. A larger disc has more surface area and will handle more Torque. I would go for a diaphragm style if I was replacing my clutch and most likely the Centerforce kit. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 7:58 PM To: TIGERS at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Long or diaphragm clutch pressure plate??? Hi all, OK, so I am getting closer to deciding on a clutch for my Tiger... Now I have just two questions left. First, is anyone running a diaphragm pressure plate? I think Doug Jennings recommended that over the stock Long one. I meant to call him today but did not have a chance. Anyone have any idea if the diaphragm is better than the stock Long type? Second question: I'm looking at the RAM Muscle Car clutch (Long) and the McLeod 75113 (diaphragm) at Summit Racing. The Ram has a 10.5 inch disc, and the McLeod a 10 inch disc. Will the 10.5 inch work with my stock 160 (157) tooth flywheel? Is there any noticeable benefit to going with the larger disc? I wish this were an easy decision! Thanks a lot for the help! Mauro _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/13/10 06:32:00 From rfraser at bluefrog.com Tue Apr 13 19:37:23 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:37:23 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rubber plugs? In-Reply-To: <239454409.5551151271185811169.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: George I believe Sunbeam Specialties sell a kit that covers just about all of the holes Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Re Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 3:10 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Rubber plugs? Hello has anyone come up with a list of what size holes are in the body and need to be pluged and how any of each size? Thanks George _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/13/10 06:32:00 From rfraser at bluefrog.com Tue Apr 13 19:42:57 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:42:57 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. In-Reply-To: <645980585.5632691271194808155.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0A7786FB3841465A903DDC82A72A5660@ronpc1> George As long as the main spring is OK; any spring shop can probably help you. I believe Dale's Restoration has springs and sometimes CAT has them in stock, if you're a member. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Re Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:40 PM To: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken does anyone know if there are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made does anyone know of a spring shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. Thanks Again George _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/13/10 06:32:00 From michael.s.king at gmail.com Tue Apr 13 21:13:26 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:13:26 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. In-Reply-To: <0A7786FB3841465A903DDC82A72A5660@ronpc1> References: <645980585.5632691271194808155.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <0A7786FB3841465A903DDC82A72A5660@ronpc1> Message-ID: I have dale's, he offers 2 versions of uprated spring. Tom Hall modtiger also supplies springs IIRC On 14 April 2010 11:42, Ron Fraser wrote: > George > As long as the main spring is OK; any spring shop can probably help > you. > I believe Dale's Restoration has springs and sometimes CAT has them in > stock, if you're a member. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of George Re > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:40 PM > To: Tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. > > > Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken > does anyone know if there > are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made > does anyone know of a spring > shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. > > > Thanks Again > George > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/13/10 > 06:32:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King From AAAGLASSS at aol.com Tue Apr 13 21:27:43 2010 From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 23:27:43 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Fulcrum Pins Message-ID: Who has the best ones??? From rjw at wengco.com Wed Apr 14 05:18:44 2010 From: rjw at wengco.com (Robert J. Wanty) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 07:18:44 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. Message-ID: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B08107C@weco1.wengco.com> I bought a pair from I believe it was Victoria British but they seem over sprung by an inch or two. Bob B382001318 -----Original Message----- From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 11:13 PM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. I have dale's, he offers 2 versions of uprated spring. Tom Hall modtiger also supplies springs IIRC On 14 April 2010 11:42, Ron Fraser wrote: > George > As long as the main spring is OK; any spring shop can probably help > you. > I believe Dale's Restoration has springs and sometimes CAT has them in > stock, if you're a member. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of George Re > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:40 PM > To: Tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. > > > Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken > does anyone know if there > are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made > does anyone know of a spring > shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. > > > Thanks Again > George > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/13/10 > 06:32:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rjw at wengco.com From walmenke at bigpond.net.au Wed Apr 14 05:27:39 2010 From: walmenke at bigpond.net.au (Wally Menke) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 21:27:39 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] In the Clutch In-Reply-To: <4E9F7BD7976D4960841FE57512DA7ADD@3bfd27b5ca44402> References: <15F508DC00A04AF0959FE454EF93D63F@jerry> <4E9F7BD7976D4960841FE57512DA7ADD@3bfd27b5ca44402> Message-ID: <000901cadbc5$7daf9660$790ec320$@net.au> The problems not the 2.88 rear end, it's the close ratio gears in the box that makes 1st hard to get off the line and go forever. For normal driving this is not real suitable. The solution is to fit the wide ratio gears like the MkII, which are easy to find. You can sell the close ratio gears to the vintage racers who will pay good $$. Wally Menke -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alvin Johnson Sent: Tuesday, 13 April 2010 10:55 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] In the Clutch The attached observation is just not so---especially if you're still stuck running those damned stupid 288 rear ends---it's like starting in second gear, and when my Tiger was a daily driver, I went through clutches regularly. __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5027 (20100414) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From walmenke at bigpond.net.au Wed Apr 14 05:34:49 2010 From: walmenke at bigpond.net.au (Wally Menke) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 21:34:49 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion In-Reply-To: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> References: <20100413145903.EFOYN.413856.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Message-ID: <000a01cadbc6$7e1b5b10$7a521130$@net.au> Duke With a 347 go with the 164? bigger flywheel that the 11" clutch will fit to. The extra size will make a long term difference with the increase in torque you will get. You will need the bigger / later bell housing as well. It all fits into the car. Wally Menke -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce at kc.rr.com Sent: Wednesday, 14 April 2010 12:59 AM To: TIGERS at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Balancing and flywheel confusion I check the archives and did not find a good answer (for me) on this. My 1991 347 has been balanced to 28 oz with a flexplate. The flexplate has a 1" X 2" weight welded to it with some of the material drilled out. I have a 65 6 bolt aluminum bell housing that I will have modified for my toploader. I have the following questions - 1. Is a 157 tooth flywheel correct for this application? 2. I want use a centerforce flywheel, which would be best? 3. Does the engine need to be re-balanced with a flywheel vs. the flexplate? 4. Do I use a 10.5 or 11" clutch? TIA! Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/walmenke at bigpond.net.au __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5027 (20100414) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5027 (20100414) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 14 08:39:00 2010 From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 07:39:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Leaf Springs Message-ID: <92689.50940.qm@web81501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi, Which springs are broken? On my car it was the main leaf spring and was broken above the axel on both sides. According to people I talked to it was unusual to have broken leaf springs. I think it happened because of axel hop when accelerating. My car doesn't have traction bars. Depending on what vin you have, Alpine springs are used on the Tiger. Later vins used a different spring from the Alpine according to the parts book. My car has springs from Dale Azk.... and they work well. They are stiffer than stock and have a extra half leaf to eliminate axel hop. Victoria British sells leaf springs for the Tiger and are very well made and look very much like stock springs. Those are made in the UK by British Spring. Jeff From jteepen at usatoday.com Wed Apr 14 09:25:31 2010 From: jteepen at usatoday.com (Teepen, Jere) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:25:31 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. In-Reply-To: <0A7786FB3841465A903DDC82A72A5660@ronpc1> References: <645980585.5632691271194808155.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <0A7786FB3841465A903DDC82A72A5660@ronpc1> Message-ID: CAT does not have rear springs, or front springs. Only pedal springs... lots of them. Dale's Restorations has a few options on rear springs as does Tom Hall and Rob Guerra via Mod Tiger. Jere -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 6:43 PM To: 'George Re'; Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. George As long as the main spring is OK; any spring shop can probably help you. I believe Dale's Restoration has springs and sometimes CAT has them in stock, if you're a member. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Re Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:40 PM To: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken does anyone know if there are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made does anyone know of a spring shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. Thanks Again George From jmartiniii at yahoo.com Wed Apr 14 12:07:13 2010 From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:07:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] 130 Gunmetal (Metallic) Message-ID: <326832.20142.qm@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does anyone have a car painted with paint code 130 Gunmetal (Metallic) that they could share some pictures and the PPG paint code? Thanks Joel Martin From jmartiniii at yahoo.com Wed Apr 14 12:28:05 2010 From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 11:28:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again Message-ID: <895726.16249.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The links to the Ford Engine Colors was excellent as well as the Mustang Monthly article, thanks for that. http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0308_paints_engines/index.html My motor seems to be a hybrid of sorts. 6 bolt - 1965 or 1966 block with the 3/8" rod bolts, 1964 intake, 1963 Autolite 4100 600 CFM carb. Appears to be 289 HiPo configuration, screw in studs and spring seats in the head. The transmission was a 1964 close ratio but has been changed to wide ratio 2,3,4 and counter with a new larger bearing retainer cover to fit the 8 bolt alumiumn bell housing. 4 holes will have to be drilled and tapped to accomodate the 1964 transmission case for the bell housing. My best guess at this point is the Old Ford Dark Blue - Duplicolor DE 1601 (According to BON) based on MK 1 from ~ B382000601 to end. My question is this: Do you paint based on the year of the car or the year of the motor? Thanks martjr From rfraser at bluefrog.com Wed Apr 14 14:38:04 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 16:38:04 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] 130 Gunmetal (Metallic) In-Reply-To: <326832.20142.qm@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <559979A30EF8424EA18BF69AD49B70EC@ronpc1> Joel Here are the numbers I have for this color. 130 Gunmetal metallic Ditzler # 32712 Chrysler # 75242896 Berger Code 404.3504 Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 2:07 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] 130 Gunmetal (Metallic) Does anyone have a car painted with paint code 130 Gunmetal (Metallic) that they could share some pictures and the PPG paint code? Thanks Joel Martin _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2808 - Release Date: 04/14/10 06:31:00 From rfraser at bluefrog.com Wed Apr 14 15:08:28 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 17:08:28 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again In-Reply-To: <895726.16249.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2932AEC129B74980958D3C9837E06662@ronpc1> Joel The color of the engines in the B19KC engine group was determined by Ford. The Original engine ID tag would indicate if it was a 65 build painted black or a 66 build painted blue. I believe your engine number puts it well into the 66 build painted blue. I have seen pictures of B19KC engines that appear to be much darker than DE-1601 and I have seen pictures that the blue looks much lighter. I do not have a clear determination of the original blue paint on the B19KC engines. It is your Tiger, paint the engine the color you like best. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 2:28 PM To: Tiger List Serve Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again The links to the Ford Engine Colors was excellent as well as the Mustang Monthly article, thanks for that. http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0308_paints_engines/index.html My motor seems to be a hybrid of sorts. 6 bolt - 1965 or 1966 block with the 3/8" rod bolts, 1964 intake, 1963 Autolite 4100 600 CFM carb. Appears to be 289 HiPo configuration, screw in studs and spring seats in the head. The transmission was a 1964 close ratio but has been changed to wide ratio 2,3,4 and counter with a new larger bearing retainer cover to fit the 8 bolt alumiumn bell housing. 4 holes will have to be drilled and tapped to accomodate the 1964 transmission case for the bell housing. My best guess at this point is the Old Ford Dark Blue - Duplicolor DE 1601 (According to BON) based on MK 1 from ~ B382000601 to end. My question is this: Do you paint based on the year of the car or the year of the motor? Thanks martjr _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2808 - Release Date: 04/14/10 06:31:00 From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 14 16:36:43 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:36:43 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] 130 Gunmetal (Metallic) In-Reply-To: <326832.20142.qm@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <326832.20142.qm@web38105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joel, I have some pics of some alpines and tigers in gunmetal.. nice colour esp with red interior! On 15 April 2010 04:07, Joel Martin wrote: > Does anyone have a car painted with paint code 130 Gunmetal (Metallic) that > they could share some pictures and the PPG paint code? > > Thanks > Joel Martin > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 14 20:04:11 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 19:04:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again In-Reply-To: <895726.16249.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <710381.60670.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Check the BON again. Old Ford Blue (corporate Ford Blue) is DE 1606. --- On Wed, 4/14/10, Joel Martin wrote: From: Joel Martin Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again To: "Tiger List Serve" Date: Wednesday, April 14, 2010, 6:28 PM The links to the Ford Engine Colors was excellent as well as the Mustang Monthly article, thanks for that. http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0308_paints_engines/index.html My motor seems to be a hybrid of sorts. 6 bolt - 1965 or 1966 block with the 3/8" rod bolts, 1964 intake, 1963 Autolite 4100 600 CFM carb. Appears to be 289 HiPo configuration, screw in studs and spring seats in the head. The transmission was a 1964 close ratio but has been changed to wide ratio 2,3,4 and counter with a new larger bearing retainer cover to fit the 8 bolt alumiumn bell housing. 4 holes will have to be drilled and tapped to accomodate the 1964 transmission case for the bell housing. My best guess at this point is the Old Ford Dark Blue - Duplicolor DE 1601 (According to BON) based on MK 1 from ~ B382000601 to end. My question is this: Do you paint based on the year of the car or the year of the motor? Thanks martjr _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From tgrrr at peoplepc.com Wed Apr 14 21:49:48 2010 From: tgrrr at peoplepc.com (Bob Hokanson) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 20:49:48 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 References: Message-ID: <73662932B19B4531BD4A5B1CD3CB7141@bob> If you're going to get serious about performance, I highly recommend a blowproof (scattershield) bellhousing. Take a look sometime at how close your right foot is to that thin piece of tin that separates you from the soft aluminum bellhousing containing that 13 in diameter cast iron buzz saw disguised as a flywheel. Remember it the next time you side step the clutch at 6500 rpm. Or, if you're the type who would rather dote on the proper hose clamp, disregard. Bob H > If your 289 is going to spin past 6500 RPM, I strongly suggest a racing > flywheel, as the OEM cast units can shatter. From m_dangelo at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 04:24:44 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 06:24:44 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <73662932B19B4531BD4A5B1CD3CB7141@bob> Message-ID: Hello. My 289 engine will only give me about 300 horsepower the way it is built. I really do not plan to race this car because, personally, I don't consider the Tiger chassis to be a very agile or reliable. In fact, I would likely choose one of my Porsche cars to race, if and when I ever do decide to race again. The Porsche 911 has a truly great chassis. The Porsche, unlike the Tiger, is a car that feels like it becomes "a part" of me, which makes it very intuitive to drive. Add to that that I live in a small town where there are only eight local cops who are extremely vigilant and strictly mind the low speed limits. While I have some original English hose clamps, I prefer to use modern hose clamps. In my own case, I think the risk of a fuel leak and fire is probably higher than a disintegrating flywheel! Cheers. Mauro On 4/14/10 11:49 PM, "Bob Hokanson" wrote: > If you're going to get serious about performance, I highly recommend a > blowproof (scattershield) bellhousing. > Take a look sometime at how close your right foot is to that thin piece of > tin that separates you from the soft aluminum bellhousing containing that 13 > in diameter cast iron buzz saw disguised as a flywheel. Remember it the next > time you side step the clutch at 6500 rpm. > Or, if you're the type who would rather dote on the proper hose clamp, > disregard. > > Bob H > >> If your 289 is going to spin past 6500 RPM, I strongly suggest a racing >> flywheel, as the OEM cast units can shatter. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From Robin02 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 15 07:47:38 2010 From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:47:38 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: <73662932B19B4531BD4A5B1CD3CB7141@bob> Message-ID: Some time before I owned my car, it had the clutch explode. The passenger side of the tunnel was badly torn and distorted to the point the false floor would not fit. The PO did a poor repair on the tunnel but installed a Lakewood scatter shield. I have since corrected the damage and take a lot of comfort in knowing the scatter shield is in place. Robin Young If you're going to get serious about performance, I highly recommend a blowproof (scattershield) bellhousing. Take a look sometime at how close your right foot is to that thin piece of tin that separates you from the soft aluminum bellhousing containing that 13 in diameter cast iron buzz saw disguised as a flywheel. Remember it the next time you side step the clutch at 6500 rpm. Or, if you're the type who would rather dote on the proper hose clamp, disregard. Bob H > If your 289 is going to spin past 6500 RPM, I strongly suggest a racing > flywheel, as the OEM cast units can shatter. _______________________________________________ From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Thu Apr 15 07:54:44 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:54:44 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 In-Reply-To: References: <73662932B19B4531BD4A5B1CD3CB7141@bob> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC36D@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Hi Mauro, Don't forget that 300 horsepower is double what the original 260 put out. In that situation, the best place for an original cast-iron flywheel is inside the box that your new steel flywheel came in. If you've spent money on your engine (and it sounds like you have, based on a previous post) then the extra $250 to $400 for a brand-new steel or aluminum flywheel is cheap insurance against a Very Bad thing. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO > Sent: April 15, 2010 4:25 AM > To: Bob Hokanson; Tigers > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > > Hello. My 289 engine will only give me about 300 horsepower the way it > is > built. I really do not plan to race this car because, personally, I > don't > consider the Tiger chassis to be a very agile or reliable. In fact, I > would > likely choose one of my Porsche cars to race, if and when I ever do > decide > to race again. The Porsche 911 has a truly great chassis. The Porsche, > unlike the Tiger, is a car that feels like it becomes "a part" of me, > which > makes it very intuitive to drive. Add to that that I live in a small > town > where there are only eight local cops who are extremely vigilant and > strictly mind the low speed limits. While I have some original English > hose > clamps, I prefer to use modern hose clamps. In my own case, I think > the > risk of a fuel leak and fire is probably higher than a disintegrating > flywheel! Cheers. > > Mauro ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From CoolVT at aol.com Thu Apr 15 08:51:21 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:51:21 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints Message-ID: <56702.61be5b08.38f881e9@aol.com> There has been lots of chatter on exploding flywheels, but almost nothing on failed driveshaft u-joints. Some time back a lister was explaining the dangers of the front u-joint letting go. If you look at that location you can see that a loose, rattling driveshaft will have a very good chance of tearing out the brake and fuel line. It's something I'd like to address this summer. So, what have people used for solutions? Mark From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Thu Apr 15 09:53:49 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 10:53:49 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints In-Reply-To: <56702.61be5b08.38f881e9@aol.com> References: <56702.61be5b08.38f881e9@aol.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC3DA@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Larry Paulick , I'm sure among others, has installed a driveshaft safety loop. http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/PaulickShaftLoop/pt-PaulickShaftLoop1.as p Theo From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com] Sent: April 15, 2010 8:51 AM To: Smit, Theo; m_dangelo at verizon.net; tgrrr at peoplepc.com; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints There has been lots of chatter on exploding flywheels, but almost nothing on failed driveshaft u-joints. Some time back a lister was explaining the dangers of the front u-joint letting go. If you look at that location you can see that a loose, rattling driveshaft will have a very good chance of tearing out the brake and fuel line. It's something I'd like to address this summer. So, what have people used for solutions? Mark ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From CoolVT at aol.com Thu Apr 15 10:04:55 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:04:55 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints Message-ID: <5bfe4.648b2da8.38f89327@aol.com> >From the picture on the first page it seems the universal could still hit the gas/brake lines in event of failure. Maybe the picture is misleading? At 1/4" it's certainly strong enough to prevent it dropping to the ground. I know of a new car that had that happen within the first few hundred miles. M In a message dated 4/15/2010 11:53:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com writes: Larry Paulick , Ibm sure among others, has installed a driveshaft safety loop. _http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/PaulickShaftLoop/pt-PaulickShaftLoop1. asp_ (http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/PaulickShaftLoop/pt-PaulickShaftLoop1.a sp) Theo From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com] Sent: April 15, 2010 8:51 AM To: Smit, Theo; m_dangelo at verizon.net; tgrrr at peoplepc.com; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints There has been lots of chatter on exploding flywheels, but almost nothing on failed driveshaft u-joints. Some time back a lister was explaining the dangers of the front u-joint letting go. If you look at that location you can see that a loose, rattling driveshaft will have a very good chance of tearing out the brake and fuel line. It's something I'd like to address this summer. So, what have people used for solutions? Mark ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Thu Apr 15 10:26:09 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:26:09 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints In-Reply-To: <5bfe4.648b2da8.38f89327@aol.com> References: <5bfe4.648b2da8.38f89327@aol.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC3F2@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> The hard part about doing a driveshaft loop is that you need to leave enough clearance around the driveshaft, so that you have some allowance for engine/trans and suspension movement. The pragmatic solution is to reroute the fuel and brake lines so theybre away from the immediate destruction zone, and then put in the loop to contain the driveshaft. Alternatively, you can put in the loop the way Larry did, and then add a secondary shield (possibly made of thinner material) right at the U-joint location to keep the lines protected. If you were to add a shield of say 1/8b plate by about 3 inches wide to extend from the top of the tunnel down to a few inches below the fuel and brake lines, then that would likely protect the lines for the amount of time it took you to come to a stop. When I re-plumbed the fuel system for 3/8b lines (feed and return) for the EFI system, I initially ran both fuel lines and the brake line through the tunnel. It turned out that the lines were just way too close to the U-jointb& even a slight amount of sideways movement of the transmission would have caused the lines to get hit by the U-joint. When I re-did the lines again, I moved the feed line so it runs about a foot inboard of the passenger rocker panel. Given the overall clearances in the tunnel for the brake line and the fuel return line I should have moved everything out there. Maybe the next time I have that part of the car substantially in pieces Ibll do that. Back on the scattershield thing, Quicktime has probably the best parts out there right now, from a Tiger perspective. They have multiple units to fit various engine/transmission combinations, and they fit closely around the clutch so that you have more header and transmission tunnel clearance. Havenbt got one myself, yet, but it looks like a very worthwhile upgrade. Theo From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com] Sent: April 15, 2010 10:05 AM To: Smit, Theo; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints >From the picture on the first page it seems the universal could still hit the gas/brake lines in event of failure. Maybe the picture is misleading? At 1/4" it's certainly strong enough to prevent it dropping to the ground. I know of a new car that had that happen within the first few hundred miles. M In a message dated 4/15/2010 11:53:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com writes: Larry Paulick , Ibm sure among others, has installed a driveshaft safety loop. http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/PaulickShaftLoop/pt-PaulickShaftLoop1.asp Theo From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com] Sent: April 15, 2010 8:51 AM To: Smit, Theo; m_dangelo at verizon.net; tgrrr at peoplepc.com; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints There has been lots of chatter on exploding flywheels, but almost nothing on failed driveshaft u-joints. Some time back a lister was explaining the dangers of the front u-joint letting go. If you look at that location you can see that a loose, rattling driveshaft will have a very good chance of tearing out the brake and fuel line. It's something I'd like to address this summer. So, what have people used for solutions? Mark -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From Robin02 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 15 10:35:41 2010 From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:35:41 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints In-Reply-To: <56702.61be5b08.38f881e9@aol.com> Message-ID: Larry Paulick did some nice engineering on this subject and posted his fix on TIgersunited. RObin There has been lots of chatter on exploding flywheels, but almost nothing on failed driveshaft u-joints. Some time back a lister was explaining the dangers of the front u-joint letting go. If you look at that location you can see that a loose, rattling driveshaft will have a very good chance of tearing out the brake and fuel line. It's something I'd like to address this summer. So, what have people used for solutions? Mark From dave at munroe.ca Thu Apr 15 10:37:00 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:37:00 -0300 Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC36D@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> References: <73662932B19B4531BD4A5B1CD3CB7141@bob> <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC36D@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: You guys are scaring me half to death with your tales of flywheel explosions, and brought back some traumatic memories. Back in the days of my mis-spent youth, I used to drag race motorcycles. At my home strip, they would bracket-run the fastest car against the fastest bike at the end of the day. I occasionally was riding the fastest bike. One day I was bracket racing against a street rod. Typically, fast bikes back then would come out of the hole and get 3/4 of the way down the strip before the fast rods would get on the boil. Then, when the line was in sight, the bike would be nearly tapped out when the rod would go by so fast it would just about suck the rider off the seat. On this fateful day, just before the rod was about to blow by me, the flywheel let go. He had a 180 scatter shield installed, which likely saved his life, but the lower half was unprotected, and the steel shrapnel hit the pavement and flew off just behind me. I was lucky: one of the spectators hanging along the fence was not. He took a piece right in the center of his forehead, and was never the same again. If you are playing with high revs and big horsepower, you never want to see what happens when a cast wheel decides to let go. Now I have to go and ponder my decisions related to my flywheel. Thanks ( I think) for the reminder! Dave From: "Smit, Theo" To: "MAURO D'ANGELO" ; "Bob Hokanson" ; "Tigers" <> Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 10:54 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 > Hi Mauro, > Don't forget that 300 horsepower is double what the original 260 put out. > In > that situation, the best place for an original cast-iron flywheel is > inside > the box that your new steel flywheel came in. > > If you've spent money on your engine (and it sounds like you have, based > on a > previous post) then the extra $250 to $400 for a brand-new steel or > aluminum > flywheel is cheap insurance against a Very Bad thing. > > Cheers, > Theo From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Thu Apr 15 10:49:07 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:49:07 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) In-Reply-To: References: <73662932B19B4531BD4A5B1CD3CB7141@bob> <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC36D@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC40B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> I haven't seen a flywheel explode, but I've seen a couple of blown clutch pressure plates, a driveshaft pretzeled, and a brake disc failure. Seen pictures of damage done by a fan that shed blades. I don't recall what damage the pressure plate did to the car (besides leading them to DNF again and leaving a bunch of totally heat-checked shrapnel under the car), but the driveshaft failure was caused by the transmission somehow engaging two gears when the car was at about 90 or 100 MPH on the front straight at Race City. The driveshaft buckled, kicked the entire passenger floor up about four or five inches, and then locked up the rear end, which sent the car into the grass just beyond the end of the pit wall. Ten yards earlier and he would have hit the wall. The brake disc was machined beyond any reasonable thickness limit, and when it got hot and the brakes were applied, a piece let go and locked the disc to the caliper. The strut was nearly ripped right off the car (240Z). If rotating stuff is suddenly made to stop, or if it can shed pieces, it will do a lot of damage... Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From huffb at southslope.net Thu Apr 15 11:45:46 2010 From: huffb at southslope.net (Brad Huff) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:45:46 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Paint color behind the grille Message-ID: Can anyone advise me the proper color of the front side of the radiator core support and the area behind the grille should be on a 65 Mk !A. The entire area was repainted red and I am now wishing to restore it to original. I believe it is probably supposed to be black and if so, how far forward does the black come before it returns to the body color? Thank you in advance.-Brad From alpdavegre at msn.com Thu Apr 15 11:49:10 2010 From: alpdavegre at msn.com (DAVID GREEN) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:49:10 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] (no subject) Message-ID: Hello from Tucson, Does anyone have the paint color formula for Midnight Blue #58 and any pictures of a car with this color so we can see what it looks like. Thanks Dave green 14 Alpines 2 Mk1 Tigers From m_dangelo at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 12:03:16 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:03:16 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) Message-ID: <1375645668.2357328.1271354596542.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Hi. This is all very interesting, but how common a problem is this in reality, statistically? I mean, how many cars are out there (Tiger/TVR/Cobra/Mustang/Fairlane/Galaxie/Falcon, etc.) that are still running their original flywheels? Are they all really in danger? If one were planning to drag race a car like these, of course it would seem to make sense to change out the flywheel, but for street cars, when was the last time anyone heard of a flywheel disintegrating? I honestly can say that I have never even heard of such an incident on a street. I think it would be interesting to understand how grave an issue this really is before spending money to buy a new flywheel. Regarding the scattershield, is this a replacement for the bell housing, or is it something like a bell housing helmet, covering it? How many of you out there have scattershields on your cars? How many of you have ever seen a scattershield? I never have, but my experience with American motors is relatively short (outside of Jeeps). Thanks. Mauro Apr 15, 2010 12:46:34 PM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com wrote: I haven't seen a flywheel explode, but I've seen a couple of blown clutch pressure plates, a driveshaft pretzeled, and a brake disc failure. Seen pictures of damage done by a fan that shed blades. I don't recall what damage the pressure plate did to the car (besides leading them to DNF again and leaving a bunch of totally heat-checked shrapnel under the car), but the driveshaft failure was caused by the transmission somehow engaging two gears when the car was at about 90 or 100 MPH on the front straight at Race City. The driveshaft buckled, kicked the entire passenger floor up about four or five inches, and then locked up the rear end, which sent the car into the grass just beyond the end of the pit wall. Ten yards earlier and he would have hit the wall. The brake disc was machined beyond any reasonable thickness limit, and when it got hot and the brakes were applied, a piece let go and locked the disc to the caliper. The strut was nearly ripped right off the car (240Z). If rotating stuff is suddenly made to stop, or if it can shed pieces, it will do a lot of damage... Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From maliburevue at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 12:29:34 2010 From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:29:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC40B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: <835426.70067.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> To all, I suggest we distinguish between drivetrain failures that occasionally happen on the race course where the engine/drivetrain is running consistently between 4000-7000 rpms for long durations and those failures that rarely happen during the occasional spirited drive on a windy road. Some people are unnecessarily worried they're going to lose a leg picking up groceries. Gary From rebelojoseph at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 13:02:06 2010 From: rebelojoseph at yahoo.com (Joseph Rebelo) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 12:02:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Anybody know more about the white RHD Tiger on ebay? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <261532.73243.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Im hoping to verify its authenticity to some degree at least. From dave at munroe.ca Thu Apr 15 13:54:47 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:54:47 -0300 Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) In-Reply-To: <835426.70067.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <835426.70067.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <44AB5583D78C4A16AF4C3DDE4FD355C2@DavePC> " Some people are unnecessarily worried they're going to lose a leg picking up groceries". Gary: That pretty much sums it up....very eloquently too I might add. Dave From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Thu Apr 15 14:06:18 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:06:18 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) In-Reply-To: <835426.70067.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC40B@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> <835426.70067.qm@web33207.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC47E@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> That's a fair point. The probability (or eventuality) of failure goes up dramatically as you increase the RPM range that the engine is operated at, and it may be that if you never exceed, say, 4000 RPM, and some given torque loading, that the life expectancy for the flywheel is essentially infinite. My point to Mauro was that today's engines are easily capable of operating at power levels and RPM ranges that significantly exceed the design limits for the original engine, and even with a quite insignificant chance of failure, you have to weigh that against the quite severe consequences. A $500 scattershield and $400 flywheel are cheap compared to the potential bodywork required to either the car or its occupants... This is a hypothetical question: Has anyone ever calculated what the theoretical destruction speed for the flywheel is, purely based on the yield strength of cast iron? It would be interesting to know what is the safety factor for a 'perfect' flywheel. Theo PS to Mauro: A scattershield such as the McLeod, Lakewood, or Quicktime pieces, entirely replaces the bellhousing. I've previously owned, but never installed, a McLeod and a Wedge scattershield. > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary > Sent: April 15, 2010 12:30 PM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) > > To all, > > I suggest we distinguish between drivetrain failures that occasionally > happen > on the race course where the engine/drivetrain is running consistently > between > 4000-7000 rpms for long durations and those failures that rarely happen > during > the occasional spirited drive on a windy road. Some people are > unnecessarily > worried they're going to lose a leg picking up groceries. > > Gary ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From atwittsend at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 14:21:09 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 13:21:09 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Best Clutch Kit 289 (etc. revisions of the original post) References: Message-ID: I hope everyone can understand I realize an exploding flywheel is a serious issue. That said I still appreciate the subtle humor regarding the hose clamps (it made me chuckle). So, I'll add that should one change back to English style clamps at the expense of a needed flywheel replacement - keep your old (new style) clamps. They can make an excellent tourniquet when your foot gets severed! In the end a scattershield is like fire/flood insurance. Most people will never use it, but when you do there is no discounting how important it is. Just like where you live dictates the importance of insurance, so does how you drive precludes the need for a scattershield. Tom From m_dangelo at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 14:32:52 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 15:32:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) Message-ID: <1125745567.2365899.1271363572263.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> From rfraser at bluefrog.com Thu Apr 15 15:25:39 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:25:39 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) In-Reply-To: <1375645668.2357328.1271354596542.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <40E7F1B8452D41CF82928310CE434835@ronpc1> Mauro The only flywheel explosions I know of happened at a race track. The stock flywheel was designed for daily street use not race application. The scattershield is a bell housing replacement made of steel. There are shrapnel blankets, for lack of a better or correct term, that are used on dragsters; A/T wrap and blower tie down come to mind. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of m_dangelo at verizon.net Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 2:03 PM To: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) Hi. This is all very interesting, but how common a problem is this in reality, statistically? I mean, how many cars are out there (Tiger/TVR/Cobra/Mustang/Fairlane/Galaxie/Falcon, etc.) that are still running their original flywheels? Are they all really in danger? If one were planning to drag race a car like these, of course it would seem to make sense to change out the flywheel, but for street cars, when was the last time anyone heard of a flywheel disintegrating? I honestly can say that I have never even heard of such an incident on a street. I think it would be interesting to understand how grave an issue this really is before spending money to buy a new flywheel. Regarding the scattershield, is this a replacement for the bell housing, or is it something like a bell housing helmet, covering it? How many of you out there have scattershields on your cars? How many of you have ever seen a scattershield? I never have, but my experience with American motors is relatively short (outside of Jeeps). Thanks. Mauro Apr 15, 2010 12:46:34 PM, Theo.Smit at dynastream.com wrote: I haven't seen a flywheel explode, but I've seen a couple of blown clutch pressure plates, a driveshaft pretzeled, and a brake disc failure. Seen pictures of damage done by a fan that shed blades. I don't recall what damage the pressure plate did to the car (besides leading them to DNF again and leaving a bunch of totally heat-checked shrapnel under the car), but the driveshaft failure was caused by the transmission somehow engaging two gears when the car was at about 90 or 100 MPH on the front straight at Race City. The driveshaft buckled, kicked the entire passenger floor up about four or five inches, and then locked up the rear end, which sent the car into the grass just beyond the end of the pit wall. Ten yards earlier and he would have hit the wall. The brake disc was machined beyond any reasonable thickness limit, and when it got hot and the brakes were applied, a piece let go and locked the disc to the caliper. The strut was nearly ripped right off the car (240Z). If rotating stuff is suddenly made to stop, or if it can shed pieces, it will do a lot of damage... Theo ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2812 - Release Date: 04/15/10 06:31:00 From rfraser at bluefrog.com Thu Apr 15 15:31:51 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:31:51 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] (no subject) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1421B84EF134477B993075363ED8A0B3@ronpc1> Dave These are the numbers I have for that color. Code #58 Midnight Blue Ditzler # 12633 DuLux enamel 97365 Chrysler # 75242838 Berger code 404.1710 ICI 2983 Maybe one of them will help you Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVID GREEN Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 1:49 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] (no subject) Hello from Tucson, Does anyone have the paint color formula for Midnight Blue #58 and any pictures of a car with this color so we can see what it looks like. Thanks Dave green 14 Alpines 2 Mk1 Tigers _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2812 - Release Date: 04/15/10 06:31:00 From achd73 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 15:35:02 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 14:35:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fw: Re: Flywheel explosoins (was Best Clutch Kit 289) Message-ID: <750335.93767.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> IF your pockets are deep enough you fly first class when flying to your destination- I suggest the same for your Tiger. Given the HP and the possibility you might decide to see just how big your nads might be or your brain might not be- IF your pockets are deep enough, why ever set in coach when first class in this case is excellent insurance- especially if your flywheel has a made date letter of 60 something. Poor guys gamble, guys not classified as poor are nuts for ignoring the safety factor as I'm sure if things did go bad at high rpms and or speeds in a Tiger, the odds of not getting hurt are very low.I bet we have no members who do race or have extremely high HP engines have safety around the clutch and flywheel and if they don't- maybe a tape measure would be a great gift. IMO of course. TtT From denismercier at telvic.net Thu Apr 15 15:41:02 2010 From: denismercier at telvic.net (denis mercier) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:41:02 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] (no subject) References: Message-ID: <76B4671D2CA44FF08547FE2B10F6FD35@D7F0WHF1> Dave. Il just send you some pictures of my Midnight Blue # 58 MK1A. For the paint color formula ask to your local car paint shop. Ask sample from different suppliers ( Sherwin Williams, Dupont........) they can be slightly different. Denis Canada B382000926LRXFE ----- Original Message ----- From: "DAVID GREEN" To: Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 1:49 PM Subject: [Tigers] (no subject) > Hello from Tucson, > > > > Does anyone have the paint color formula for Midnight Blue #58 and any > pictures of a car with this color so we can see what it looks like. > > Thanks > > Dave green > > > > 14 Alpines 2 Mk1 Tigers > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/denismercier at telvic.net From lpaulick at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 03:43:45 2010 From: lpaulick at comcast.net (Larry Paulick) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 05:43:45 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Clutch-Driveshaft U-joints In-Reply-To: <56702.61be5b08.38f881e9@aol.com> References: <56702.61be5b08.38f881e9@aol.com> Message-ID: <4BC83151.6060209@comcast.net> See the article on Tigers United. Larry CoolVT at aol.com wrote: > There has been lots of chatter on exploding flywheels, but almost nothing > on failed driveshaft u-joints. Some time back a lister was explaining the > dangers of the front u-joint letting go. If you look at that location you can > see that a loose, rattling driveshaft will have a very good chance of > tearing out the brake and fuel line. It's something I'd like to address this > summer. So, what have people used for solutions? > Mark > _______________________________________________ From rfraser at bluefrog.com Thu Apr 15 15:45:24 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:45:24 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Paint color behind the grille In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <335A101E622C4FE899DEA56FF23039C7@ronpc1> Brad First you need to have all the trim pieces; the upper eye brow and the lower piece. I painted black from the centerline of the lower piece and to the metal roll edge of the upper to the radiator. I believe the black should have gone a little further under the upper eye brow to cover the paint edge. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Huff Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 1:46 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Paint color behind the grille Can anyone advise me the proper color of the front side of the radiator core support and the area behind the grille should be on a 65 Mk !A. The entire area was repainted red and I am now wishing to restore it to original. I believe it is probably supposed to be black and if so, how far forward does the black come before it returns to the body color? Thank you in advance.-Brad _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2812 - Release Date: 04/15/10 06:31:00 From m_dangelo at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 15:53:12 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:53:12 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel explosions (was Best Clutch Kit 289) Message-ID: <18118284.443750.1271368392060.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net> Gary, Thanks for putting it so eloquently.B That is exactly what I was driving at in a roundabout way.B I really think there is a huge difference between a race car, or a car used to race, and a car that's driven on a street, even in a very spirited manner.B My logic is simply that race engines generally get consumed very quickly, while street engines can be reliable for many years.B In the same way, components of engines, i.e. cast iron flywheels, pistons, rings, rods bearings, etc., can usually remain reliable for a very long time in a street car.B Flywheels will normally be swapped out if grooved or corroded, but not because they were reduced to shrapnel.B Am I wrong here?B Just imagine the danger to life and limb of owners of all classic cars powered by small block Ford engines.B I would think that if this were truly a problem, I would be reading about it in newspapers and magazines (even Hagerty would probably put out warnings).B Right?B Mauro Apr 15, 2010 02:31:55 PM, maliburevue at yahoo.com wrote: To all, I suggest we distinguish between drivetrain failures that occasionally happen on the race course where the engine/drivetrain is running consistently between 4000-7000 rpms for long durations and those failures that rarely happen during the occasional spirited drive on a windy road. Some people are unnecessarily worried they're going to lose a leg picking up groceries. Gary _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 17:39:34 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:39:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again Message-ID: <180062.2889.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Joel now I'm cinfused. Ron Fraser...can you help out. My Tiger B382002668 was built is Dec 1996.. it has the 18KC engine with Rev 9. I'm about to paint it in a few weeks. I asuumed from the earlier discussion it should be DE 1606. I'm covering was is a very dark blue. Since my car is near the end of MK IA, did Sunbeam use DE1606 oer perhaps DE 1601. My question is: Is DE 1601 the lig --- On Thu, 4/15/10, Joel Martin wrote: From: Joel Martin Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again To: "David T Johnson" Date: Thursday, April 15, 2010, 1:42 PM David I do not see where the BON indicates the actual number. I show DE1606 is Ford Dark Blue for 1969 - 1981. Old Ford Blue for 1963 (some) - 1965 was the DE1601 and Crop Ford Blue 1966-1968 as DE1621. Still not too sure if color is based on year of engine or year of car. Joel From: David T Johnson To: Tiger List Serve ; Joel Martin Sent: Wed, April 14, 2010 10:04:11 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again Check the BON again. Old Ford Blue (corporate Ford Blue) is DE 1606. --- On Wed, 4/14/10, Joel Martin wrote: From: Joel Martin Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again To: "Tiger List Serve" Date: Wednesday, April 14, 2010, 6:28 PM The links to the Ford Engine Colors was excellent as well as the Mustang Monthly article, thanks for that. http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0308_paints_engines/index.html My motor seems to be a hybrid of sorts. 6 bolt - 1965 or 1966 block with the 3/8" rod bolts, 1964 intake, 1963 Autolite 4100 600 CFM carb. Appears to be 289 HiPo configuration, screw in studs and spring seats in the head. The transmission was a 1964 close ratio but has been changed to wide ratio 2,3,4 and counter with a new larger bearing retainer cover to fit the 8 bolt alumiumn bell housing. 4 holes will have to be drilled and tapped to accomodate the 1964 transmission case for the bell housing. My best guess at this point is the Old Ford Dark Blue - Duplicolor DE 1601 (According to BON) based on MK 1 from ~ B382000601 to end. My question is this: Do you paint based on the year of the car or the year of the motor? Thanks martjr _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 15 18:11:49 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:11:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fulcrum pins Message-ID: <490499.92227.qm@web111617.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> With all the traffic about flywheels, broken u-loints, exploding ball joints I have never heard much more about my and John Logan's tech tip about his fulcrum pin fix. It should be required for everyone. Go to TEAE.org or their website teae at aol.com. and read all about it. and then DO IT!! If your cross member is off, do it before putting it back on. Time to lease my soapbox. Dave survivor of two fulcrum pin failures. and a 5 way bypass. The pins were the scariest. From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 15 18:26:03 2010 From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 17:26:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business Message-ID: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it was brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap while backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road driving) , now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force of a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most life and limb threating vehicles on the road. Jeff From rande at thecia.net Thu Apr 15 19:06:09 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:06:09 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] from the wiki paint chart Message-ID: <4bc7b801.5aba.0@thecia.net> 'Corporate Ford Blue 1966-1968 Orig Ford PN: EP-2075-C Duplicolor DE 1621 (Old Ford Blue) PPG DAR 13358' www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors Dave, This is the info on the top of the page. If you look at the bottom info, where they mention all colors by year, they've listed 1965 289 as black block and heads and WHITE rocker covers? My first '65 was black with GOLD rocker covers and air filter housing, and the 289HP (the 'K' motor) was black with CHROME rocker covers and air filter housing. Makes me wonder about the first part of the list. From bob at rjosten.com Thu Apr 15 19:06:29 2010 From: bob at rjosten.com (Bob Josten) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:06:29 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] car lift Message-ID: Awhile ago someone asked the list for car lift advice. If someone has too much money and not enough space maybe this 'subterranean lift' would be the solution. http://www.vasari-lifts.com/ Bob From atwittsend at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 19:21:11 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:21:11 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business References: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <53149FA4632E4BA48341E5C3745F6C3D@student2> You forgot to mention rivets (and screws) that make for removable I.D.. Why you can have the fraud squad haul your Tiger off in the middle of the night straight into the jaws of a crusher!!! And that devastation can occur with the car standing still. Then there is Lucas..., but that would be a whole subject for Fright Night II. But for my real "Fear Factor" I drive a '73 Pinto. 2.3 turbo and a T-5 help me cheat death as I attempt to out run the flames. :-) Tom >A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, > First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it > was > brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap > while > backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road > driving) , > now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force > of > a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone > reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most > life and limb threating vehicles on the road. > > > Jeff From m_dangelo at verizon.net Thu Apr 15 19:22:31 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:22:31 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: As a matter of fact, I am one of those people, and I do not fully trust my car yet because of all of this talk. I really love my Tiger, but I feel so much more comfortable (and safe) in my Porsche because I know it won't try to kill or maim me. If something were to happen in that car, it would more likely be caused by human error, not mechanical failure. I strongly suggest to you all to clearly distinguish between necessary racing modifications and normal street use. I'd wager that the majority of owners never race their cars to the point that serious mods are necessary anyway. The fear problem is compounded by all the Kool-Aid that's been flowing through the list. On 4/15/10 8:26 PM, "Jeffrey Nichols" wrote: > A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, > First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it was > brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap while > backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road driving) , > now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force of > a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone > reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most > life and limb threating vehicles on the road. > > > Jeff > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From ron.young at cox.net Thu Apr 15 19:26:17 2010 From: ron.young at cox.net (Ron Young) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:26:17 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <84E256CD513D4060BA70C2ACFB5A3941@YoungPC> So, Jeff, does this mean that you want to sell yours cheap?!?! Ron Dana Point, CA "Lurker" that has always wanted a Tiger since they were new. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey Nichols" To: Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 5:26 PM Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business >A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, > First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it > was > brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap > while > backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road > driving) , > now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force > of > a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone > reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most > life and limb threating vehicles on the road. > > > Jeff > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/ron.young at cox.net From stubrennan at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 19:35:29 2010 From: stubrennan at comcast.net (Stu Brennan) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 21:35:29 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cadd05$1c1a2190$6501a8c0@Brennan> Be safe, Buy a Toyota. Stu -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Nichols Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:26 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it was brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap while backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road driving) , now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force of a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most life and limb threating vehicles on the road. Jeff _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/stubrennan at comcast.net From michael.s.king at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 20:09:47 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 12:09:47 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: References: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 16 April 2010 11:22, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > As a matter of fact, I am one of those people, and I do not fully trust my > car yet because of all of this talk. I really love my Tiger, but I feel so > much more comfortable (and safe) in my Porsche because I know it won't try > to kill or maim me. > Not sure what year porsche you have but they were know as the "widow makers" especially the early 930 (911 turbo) .. though as with all cars.. genrally accidents happen due to the drivers skill base/aspirations not matching the cars potential.... and i have driven more porsches than most... -- Regards Michael King From Robin02 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 15 21:04:01 2010 From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 23:04:01 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Newbies get a lot of good advice here.....I was a newbie once ten years ago and over the years have appreciated my scatter shield, added the Logan/Johnson fulcrum pin fix, Dales Ackerman fix, did the Crawley cross member strengthening, added the Paulick 3" conduit to the exhaust pass throughs, used Derrick Whites dual brake master cylinder, hardened the valve seats, solved the overheating problem with 300HP, got tips on investment painting form Tim Ronack, and how to locate Martha for interior work. Thanks guys.....I really enjoy spinning the tires but don't drive over 80 MPH just in case something was overlooked. RObin -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Nichols Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:26 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it was brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap while backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road driving) , now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force of a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most life and limb threating vehicles on the road. From rfraser at bluefrog.com Thu Apr 15 21:55:12 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 23:55:12 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again In-Reply-To: <180062.2889.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4972EA927D5448C1804D870B62B4149E@ronpc1> Dave I wish I could help here. I don't have the information needed to confirm the correct shade of Blue. Tod Brown sent me a picture of the original blue engine paint on his car and he states that DE 1606 matches. I have also seen pictures that look like medium blue and some pictures look even lighter. The problem is I do not have any original B19KC blue in hand to compare. I made a paint stick with DE 1601, the lighter shade, and DE 1621, medium shade, but it is impossible to compare my paint stick to a picture; way too many variables. http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors This is the best site I have found that at least shows the 3 shades of blue together. I have to shine a light on my paint stick to come close to the shades represented on that page. I wish I had a better answer. This is a case where Tiger owners with B19KC engines painted blue needed to check the shade of blue on their engines. It is also possible that the 289 engines in the MK II are painted a different shade of blue. I simply can not make that determination. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David T Johnson Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:40 PM To: Joel Martin Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again Joel now I'm cinfused. Ron Fraser...can you help out. My Tiger B382002668 was built is Dec 1996.. it has the 18KC engine with Rev 9. I'm about to paint it in a few weeks. I asuumed from the earlier discussion it should be DE 1606. I'm covering was is a very dark blue. Since my car is near the end of MK IA, did Sunbeam use DE1606 oer perhaps DE 1601. My question is: Is DE 1601 the lig --- On Thu, 4/15/10, Joel Martin wrote: From tsmit at shaw.ca Thu Apr 15 22:17:45 2010 From: tsmit at shaw.ca (Theo Smit) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 22:17:45 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC7E4E9.9080103@shaw.ca> Mauro, you shouldn't be leery of driving your car, so long as you know everything is up to date as far as maintenance is concerned. But a Tiger is a 60's car, and it was not designed to last forever. I wonder what anyone driving a pre-1970's Porsche (or even into the 70's, so that we can include the 930) thinks about while they go down the road. I think there are a couple of reasons that there's a constant flow of vivid what-if disaster scenarios being presented. Part of it is that many of us on the list have an engineering or other technical background, and worrying about failure is an important part of our profession. Part of it is that all of our cars are 45 years old or thereabouts, and they've thereby outlasted many of the people that created them, and several generations worth of technological advances in vehicle design and component engineering. It's pretty safe to say that no one at Rootes ever suspected that their little monster would still be a going concern today, and for sure they didn't design the chassis or suspension to take anywhere near the amount of pounding that most Tigers have received at this point. And part of it is that pretty much everything we've discussed, HAS happened to people in Tigers, and mostly on the road. Fan blades have come off and gone through the hood. Fulcrum pins have sheared, in parking lots, but also on public roads. Old tires have exploded while traveling on the highway. Poor replacement components (specifically fulcrum pins and ball joints) have made people's best attempts at preventive maintenance worse than useless. Through it all, Tiger owners and the people making Tiger maintenance parts have worked to keep the cars going and to weed out the bad and unsafe stuff from the good. The reason you can get all the horror stories at the drop of a hat, is because we're generally past that, most owners are aware of the critical items in Tiger construction, and are just spreading the word. Cheers, Theo MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > As a matter of fact, I am one of those people, and I do not fully trust my > car yet because of all of this talk. I really love my Tiger, but I feel so > much more comfortable (and safe) in my Porsche because I know it won't try > to kill or maim me. If something were to happen in that car, it would more > likely be caused by human error, not mechanical failure. I strongly suggest > to you all to clearly distinguish between necessary racing modifications and > normal street use. I'd wager that the majority of owners never race their > cars to the point that serious mods are necessary anyway. The fear problem > is compounded by all the Kool-Aid that's been flowing through the list. From tkparker1941 at gmail.com Thu Apr 15 23:15:43 2010 From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 01:15:43 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again In-Reply-To: <4972EA927D5448C1804D870B62B4149E@ronpc1> References: <180062.2889.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4972EA927D5448C1804D870B62B4149E@ronpc1> Message-ID: I'm looking at the picture of the engine when I pulled it out of the car. It's a Tiger 2, #105 (very early). The block is C5AE-6015E, so it was cast in '65 as a 289. The block was Ford Black. Hard to tell from the picture, but I cleaned it off before I tore it down. It was black. However, the heads, intake manifold, timing cover, and the Toploader were "Old Ford Blue." I got what I thought was the correct color from Year One, but it was the newer, bluer "Corporate" blue. Duplicolor had the correct blue, labeled "Old Ford Blue". It was a very close match to what was on the manifold and transmission, given that paint was 40 years old at the time. Hard to tell what color was used where. All I can speak to is the engine I have; I've owned the car since '76. What happened to it before that I can't say. Tom On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 11:55 PM, Ron Fraser wrote: > Dave > I wish I could help here. I don't have the information needed to > confirm the correct shade of Blue. > Tod Brown sent me a picture of the original blue engine paint on his car > and > he states that DE 1606 matches. I have also seen pictures that look like > medium blue and some pictures look even lighter. > > The problem is I do not have any original B19KC blue in hand to > compare. I made a paint stick with DE 1601, the lighter shade, and DE > 1621, > medium shade, but it is impossible to compare my paint stick to a picture; > way too many variables. > > http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors > This is the best site I have found that at least shows the 3 shades of blue > together. I have to shine a light on my paint stick to come close to the > shades represented on that page. > > I wish I had a better answer. This is a case where Tiger owners with B19KC > engines painted blue needed to check the shade of blue on their engines. > It is also possible that the 289 engines in the MK II are painted a > different shade of blue. I simply can not make that determination. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of David T Johnson > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:40 PM > To: Joel Martin > Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again > > > Joel now I'm cinfused. > Ron Fraser...can you help out. > > My Tiger B382002668 was built is Dec 1996.. it has the 18KC engine with Rev > 9. I'm about to paint it in a few weeks. I asuumed from the earlier > discussion it should be DE 1606. I'm covering was is a very dark blue. > Since my car is near the end of MK IA, did Sunbeam use DE1606 oer perhaps > DE > 1601. My question is: Is DE 1601 the lig > > --- On Thu, 4/15/10, Joel Martin wrote: > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Apr 15 23:17:48 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 05:17:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1082859088.12449851271395068842.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> hmmmmmmmm well, i have raced the tigger on the track, auto crossed it, used it as a daily driver, and run it at the drags, then hauled ass down the freeway on 650 mile trips. no fan blade decapatations, no pogo stick action by the little 18" driveshaft, no ball joint grenades, no broken fulcrum pins, no bombs disguised as flywheels.......in fact, the darn thing just goes like hell.B since 1974 when i got it.B through various permutations of small blocks. boy, i am gonna stop driving it and turn it into a salad bar; it is just toooooooooo dangerous!! sheesh. Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "MAURO D'ANGELO" To: "Jeffrey Nichols" , tigers at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 8:22:31 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [Tigers] Risky Business As a matter of fact, I am one of those people, and I do not fully trust my car yet because of all of this talk. B I really love my Tiger, but I feel so much more comfortable (and safe) in my Porsche because I know it won't try to kill or maim me. B If something were to happen in that car, it would more likely be caused by human error, not mechanical failure. B I strongly suggest to you all to clearly distinguish between necessary racing modifications and normal street use. B I'd wager that the majority of owners never race their cars to the point that serious mods are necessary anyway. B The fear problem is compounded by all the Kool-Aid that's been flowing through the list. On 4/15/10 8:26 PM, "Jeffrey Nichols" wrote: > A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, > First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it was > brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap while > backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road driving) , > now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the B force of > a small bomb cutting off limbs or B converting you to a gelding. B Anyone > reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most > life and limb threating vehicles on the road. > B > B B B B B B B B B > B B B B B B Jeff > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From michael.s.king at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 01:23:58 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 17:23:58 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Anybody know more about the white RHD Tiger on ebay? In-Reply-To: <261532.73243.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <261532.73243.qm@web58608.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290424115688&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en On 16 April 2010 05:02, Joseph Rebelo wrote: > Im hoping to verify its authenticity to some degree at least. > Joe, as this auction ended early.. and on the day you asked about its authenticity.. im guessing you may now own it? It looked a reasonably honest car.. there are people around the area that may know it.. you might want to check the registry for it too... question is.. where do you live? -- Regards Michael King From m_dangelo at verizon.net Fri Apr 16 04:12:57 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 06:12:57 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Right. As I said, if something were to happen in one of my 911s, it would be because of human error, not mechanical failure. My point was simply that all the talk of the extreme lack of confidence in the Tiger's chassis and drivetrain components is very scary and probably not at all helpful in attracting or maintaining interest in the car. On the contrary. Also, for those cars that stay off the track, all or most of that talk is irrelevant and therefore highly unproductive. Neither of my 911s is a 930 or Turbo. The 930 was called the widow maker. Also, the 930 (Turbo) was known as the car that killed the most sports stars. You may also know that the original 930 is the car that caused the coining of the term, 3turbo lag2, which was the initial quality/behavior that caused many drivers to be caught by surprise when the power all finally kicked in, to freak out, overcompensate, lose control of their cars and end up off the street. Mauro On 4/15/10 10:09 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 16 April 2010 11:22, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: >> As a matter of fact, I am one of those people, and I do not fully trust my >> car yet because of all of this talk. I really love my Tiger, but I feel so >> much more comfortable (and safe) in my Porsche because I know it won't try >> to kill or maim me. > Not sure what year porsche you have but they were know as the "widow makers" > especially the early 930 (911 turbo) .. though as with all cars.. genrally > accidents happen due to the drivers skill base/aspirations not matching the > cars potential.... and i have driven more porsches than most... > From arado7 at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 16 05:03:27 2010 From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 04:03:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <678156.96776.qm@web82705.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If the Tiger had no allusion of danger it would not be as much fun. gary B9472283 --- On Fri, 4/16/10, Jeffrey Nichols wrote: From: Jeffrey Nichols Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 12:26 AM A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it was brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap while backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road driving) , now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force of a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most life and limb threating vehicles on the road. Jeff _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7 at sbcglobal.net From shutchin at netjets.com Fri Apr 16 05:39:14 2010 From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:39:14 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663BB@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> I think the biggest risk you run in the Tiger is that of someone else hitting you. Goes for just about any car of the tigers size made in the sixties. In terms of safety equipment not much has changed since the sixties in airplanes, and for the most part what has been mandated has been required to be installed in existing equipment, but the automobile has undergone a revolution. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft Office 860.292.1191 Mobile 843.290.2805 *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. From m_dangelo at verizon.net Fri Apr 16 08:21:39 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 09:21:39 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business Message-ID: <1512980198.2003676.1271427699230.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> Gary, Believe me, I am all about adrenaline rushes and taking lots of calculated risks. I love to seek the edge of physics, to get to it without crossing the limit. That's exactly what I thrive on the most. But that adventurism, in this case, requires my complete faith in the integrity of the machine I am driving. Without that, it is quite impossible to seek the edge of physics without pulling back, even if it's just a bit, for fear that the car will betray me and cause grave harm to me and/or itself. The issue with the way many of you are portraying the Tiger, in my own humble opinion, is that there is a [false] sense that the car is prone to random, catastrophic failures, which can easily injure or kill you. The operative word here is "random". How can one calculate risks when there is a variable and random element in that calculation? It's not possible and only cause insecurity. I mean, come on. If you rev the engine at 6500 RPM, your flywheel may explode and buzz saw your feet off! Oh no!!! If you back up in a parking lot, or drive down the street, your fulcrum pin will fail, causing you to careen into a telephone pole without warning. Smash!!! Your U-joint may fail in your drive shaft, causing you to either be pole vaulted onto your head or, even better, cause you to lose your brakes and catch fire at the same time. Crash Boom!!! Your ball joints may explode; even if you thought you were doing preventive maintenance, you have pulled the pin on a hand grenade in your front suspension. Screech Kaboom!!! It's all really quite absurd. I'm truly surprised that all you engineers do not understand how damaging this is to the reputation of this car. Can you imagine what would happen to public confidence in helicopters if engineers were to explain how many of the myriad simultaneously moving components could possibly fail? What's more surprising is that no one is saying that these problems are not only tied to our cool Tigers, but to all or most classic cars of the era, to include Cobras and other highly sought muscle cars. But go to a Mustang or Cobra forum and you won't find these dire warnings of impending doom. Let's try to at least put strong caveats above our warnings. Right? Mauro Apr 16, 2010 06:42:42 AM, arado7 at sbcglobal.net wrote: If the Tiger had no allusion of danger it would not be as much fun. gary B9472283 --- On Fri, 4/16/10, Jeffrey Nichols wrote: From: Jeffrey Nichols Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 12:26 AM A newbie to this list may wonder what type of nut drives a Sunbeam Tiger, First we had discussion on "exploding ball joints" a while back , then it was brought up that these cars have suspension fulcrum points ready to snap while backing out of your driveway (if you are lucky and not on the road driving) , now we have flywheels and clutch assemblies that "explode" with the force of a small bomb cutting off limbs or converting you to a gelding. Anyone reading this list has to conclude that the Tiger has to be one of the most life and limb threating vehicles on the road. Jeff _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7 at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From mikeflbmer at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 08:29:55 2010 From: mikeflbmer at yahoo.com (mike schreiner) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 07:29:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks Message-ID: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear? Mike From spmdr at juno.com Fri Apr 16 09:37:18 2010 From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:37:18 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Exploding Flywheels Message-ID: <20100416.083719.2480.1.spmdr@juno.com> FYI Several years ago, one of the Cobras at the Willow open track Had the flywheel explode! He said he couldn't have been doing more than 5000 RPM! The good news is he had an iron Ford bellhousing and it contained the mess! The point is, it can happen ANY time! The NEWest original Tiger flywheel is 42 years old! Meal fatigue is cumulative! NEW steel flywheels are out there for a little over $100! www.themustangdepot.com For the cost of surfacing and mag testing, it's a "No Brainer"! DW ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Soaring 3000% Sign up for Free to find out what the next 3000% Stock Winner Is! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc88469a84ce4cc72m07vuc From simer.frank at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 09:39:54 2010 From: simer.frank at gmail.com (Frank Simer) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:39:54 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks In-Reply-To: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Fire yikes... I got rid of that crossover tube straight away... and have a firewall built in my trunk...when I stripped my tiger down and saw that pipe behind that 25 pound bumper I freaked.... funny it did not bother me when driving a tiger in 76-78.... it did now that I am no longer in my bullet-proof 20's... other than being eaten as some large animal's meal - fire is my next feared item of 'consumption" Frank On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 9:29 AM, mike schreiner wrote: > What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, > my fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening > from the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever > heaqrd of a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear? Mike > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/simer.frank at gmail.com From cars at wt-inc.com Fri Apr 16 09:41:49 2010 From: cars at wt-inc.com (Lynn Wall) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Fulcrum pins Tiger Gas Tanks, exploding flywheel, spontaneous combustion In-Reply-To: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cadd7b$54640f40$fd2c2dc0$@com> Oh my hell....... people get a grip!!!!! I tell you what. I am willing to take all the tigers off your hands right now. However we will need to make a slight price adjustment considering all the extreme risk I am assuming. It will be a win win for of us since I have an obvious death wish and you folks will no longer stay awake at night trying to figure out at which RPM a flywheel will explode. This way you can all get back to safe activities like walking around the back side of a horse, standing on the top level of a ladder and fly fishing with your zipper down... Sorry to vent. Lynn From rfraser at bluefrog.com Fri Apr 16 09:45:22 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:45:22 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks In-Reply-To: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1D5EC474AB974839A1E4D3AA4DF72A71@ronpc1> Mike There have been several rear end collisions with no fire. For the most part if you see it coming your right foot can move you out of the way. You could fabricate a metal shield between the fuel tanks and the cockpit. It is possible Dale's Restoration Shop already has them for the race cars he works on. Another item to consider might be an inertia switch in the fuel pump harness to shut it off. I pulled one out of a Ford Focus and it even has a rubber weather shield over the button. I soft wired this switch into my Tiger and it worked fine. I just need to find a connector so I can hard wire it into the harness. If you grab an inertia switch from a scrap yard be sure to take the connector and length of wire too. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike schreiner Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 10:30 AM To: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear? Mike _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2812 - Release Date: 04/16/10 06:31:00 From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Fri Apr 16 09:47:41 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:47:41 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks In-Reply-To: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100416154741.6ZZJZ.230131.root@hrndva-web13-z01> OMG PEOPLE....................just sell your Tigers and walk. Then again, you might get hit by a meteor or bus. Give it a rest. Duke B382002037 (ready to kill me at any moment and I love it) ---- mike schreiner wrote: > What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear? Mike > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com From cars at wt-inc.com Fri Apr 16 09:48:33 2010 From: cars at wt-inc.com (Lynn Wall) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 08:48:33 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Fulcrum pins Tiger Gas Tanks, exploding flywheel, spontaneous combustion In-Reply-To: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <260446.9717.qm@web54305.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000101cadd7c$4580e9c0$d082bd40$@com> Oh my hell....... people get a grip!!!!! I tell you what. I am willing to take all the tigers off your hands right now. However we will need to make a slight price adjustment considering all the extreme risk I am assuming. It will be a win win for of us since I have an obvious death wish and you folks will no longer stay awake at night trying to figure out at which RPM a flywheel will explode. This way you can all get back to safe activities like walking around the back side of a horse, standing on the top level of a ladder and fly fishing with your zipper down... Sorry to vent. Lynn From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 10:43:11 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:43:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] Exploding Flywheels In-Reply-To: <20100416.083719.2480.1.spmdr@juno.com> Message-ID: <147862614.12632631271436191715.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> several years ago, a guy was struck by lightening as he sat in his basement. i guess you guys don't fly much.B if you knew what a dangerous environment you were in when in flight in a jet.... stuff happens.B you can't round off all the corners.B take what precautions seem sane, forget the rest...B Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: spmdr at juno.com To: tigers at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 10:37:18 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: [Tigers] Exploding Flywheels FYI Several years ago, one of the Cobras at the Willow open track Had the flywheel explode! He said he couldn't have been doing more than 5000 RPM! The good news is he had an iron Ford bellhousing and it contained the mess! The point is, it can happen ANY time! The NEWest original Tiger flywheel is 42 years old! Meal fatigue is cumulative! NEW steel flywheels are out there for a little over $100! www.themustangdepot.com For the cost of surfacing and mag testing, it's a "No Brainer"! DW ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Soaring 3000% Sign up for Free to find out what the next 3000% Stock Winner Is! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc88469a84ce4cc72m07vuc _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Fri Apr 16 10:59:28 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:59:28 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Exploding and fiery list content Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC620@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> In retrospect (hopefully we can let this die down) I think that the message should be: Have fun with your Tiger  its why you bought it. In stock form, its no more intrinsically dangerous than any other high powered 60s British car that was engineered on a tight budget. If there are things about it that make you uneasy from a safety or reliability point of view, then get those things checked out by someone whose judgment you value. If stuff needs repair, then use the best parts and procedures you can afford, consistent with how you plan to use your car. Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From modtiger at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 11:00:00 2010 From: modtiger at comcast.net (Tom Hall) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:00:00 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <1512980198.2003676.1271427699230.JavaMail.root@vms182.mail srvcs.net> References: <1512980198.2003676.1271427699230.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <7.0.0.16.2.20100416084250.025e9968@comcast.net> At 07:21 AM 4/16/2010, you wrote: >... I'm truly surprised that all you engineers do not understand how >damaging this is to the reputation of this car. > >... What's more surprising is that no one is saying that these >problems are not only tied to our cool Tigers, but to all or most >classic cars of the era, to include Cobras and other highly sought >muscle cars. But go to a Mustang or Cobra forum and you won't find >these dire warnings of impending doom. Let's try to at least put >strong caveats above our warnings. Right? > >Mauro Let me get this straight, You think it's advisable, to advance the reputation of the marque, that those of us with historic understanding of certain design limitations and or possible shortcomings, should remain silent on these subjects. I think that Toyota is currently proving that this direction is not the best alternative. Most of us "engineers" have recognized and discussed these risk situations and are advising that mitigating them requires some action on the part of owners that for the most part, request the help and advice from the list. Relative "Risk" is a very personal interpretation. If you ask for advise and I scare you with stories of component failure, and you buy my Chassis Reinforcement Kit to strengthen your frame, or you direct your restoration to replace components that have been historically subject to cyclic fatigue failures, have I helped you or hurt you? Do you smoke? Can you believe that anyone, given the state of knowledge of that risk, would ever even consider smoking? How do they even manage to sell cigarettes? As a Professional Engineer, I consider that advising fellow Tiger owners of risk factors that I have historical, direct or even peripheral and specific knowledge of, to be my social responsibility. Same goes for "authenticity". If my TAC activities keep you from buying a car that was not manufactured as a Tiger by Rootes, I'm also reducing your risk factor, even if it is simply financial. You have to judge your own level of acceptable risk. Asking other to remain silent or severely muted, is not really helpful in my opinion. Anyone driving a 40 year old car has a much different perspective on driving safety than the general public. Most of the contributors on this list are simply trying to share their enjoyment and help others enjoy their Tigers to the fullest while acknowledging certain common problems. Tom Hall ModTiger Engineering LLC www.tigerengineering.net From jmartiniii at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 11:25:47 2010 From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:25:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again In-Reply-To: <4972EA927D5448C1804D870B62B4149E@ronpc1> References: <4972EA927D5448C1804D870B62B4149E@ronpc1> Message-ID: <100140.68977.qm@web38106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Dave/Ron I am leaning towards following the advice found in the Ford Engine colors guide link supplied. With a B19KC motor designation for a 1966 MK 1A, this guide indicates for 1966 - 1968 Corporate Ford Blue or Duplicolor DE 1621 (Old Ford Blue). BON just indicates 'Old Ford Dark Blue'. The guide use verbage Old Ford Blue DE1601 for 63-65, Corporate Ford Blue DE 1621 (Old Ford Blue) for 1966-1968 and Ford Blue DE 1606 (Ford Dark Blue) for 1969-1981. None of the DE descriptions uses "all" the verbage from BON of 'Old Ford Dark Blue'. Not the low road (lighter DE1601) or the high/darker road DE1606 but straight down the middle - DE1621 based on the year 1966 from the Ford Engine Colors guide and BON (Guess) that B382000601 to end is Old Ford Dark Blue - what ever that is based on Duplicolor descriptions. Joel ----- Original Message ---- From: Ron Fraser To: David T Johnson ; Joel Martin Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, April 15, 2010 11:55:12 PM Subject: RE: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again Dave I wish I could help here. I don't have the information needed to confirm the correct shade of Blue. Tod Brown sent me a picture of the original blue engine paint on his car and he states that DE 1606 matches. I have also seen pictures that look like medium blue and some pictures look even lighter. The problem is I do not have any original B19KC blue in hand to compare. I made a paint stick with DE 1601, the lighter shade, and DE 1621, medium shade, but it is impossible to compare my paint stick to a picture; way too many variables. http://www.fordification.com/bumpwiki/index.php?title=Ford_Engine_Colors This is the best site I have found that at least shows the 3 shades of blue together. I have to shine a light on my paint stick to come close to the shades represented on that page. I wish I had a better answer. This is a case where Tiger owners with B19KC engines painted blue needed to check the shade of blue on their engines. It is also possible that the 289 engines in the MK II are painted a different shade of blue. I simply can not make that determination. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David T Johnson Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 7:40 PM To: Joel Martin Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again Joel now I'm cinfused. Ron Fraser...can you help out. My Tiger B382002668 was built is Dec 1996.. it has the 18KC engine with Rev 9. I'm about to paint it in a few weeks. I asuumed from the earlier discussion it should be DE 1606. I'm covering was is a very dark blue. Since my car is near the end of MK IA, did Sunbeam use DE1606 oer perhaps DE 1601. My question is: Is DE 1601 the lig --- On Thu, 4/15/10, Joel Martin wrote: From achd73 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 11:43:41 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 10:43:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks In-Reply-To: <20100416154741.6ZZJZ.230131.root@hrndva-web13-z01> Message-ID: <700242.29713.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Wait Duke- of all the stuff mentioned, Mike brought up the most dangerous. Under the right conditions one gallon of gasoline( back when it was truely gasoline that is) is equal to more than a stick of dynamite. I was told in a safety meeting at work by the instructor that 1 gallon was equal to 8 sticks BUT Im having a hard time believing that- I have seen gasoline explode tho and the earth shook as did I afterwards- I was amazed. I agree, many good points have been covered and depending on the car, each procedure should be addressd in the order of NEVER needing a scatershield to the fulcrum pins which should be addressed immeadiately if not alredy changed out. By the way LIST. My Tiger had pin failure but Im not certain he (PO) used new and improved or used pins to replace them with. Is there any way I can tell by a visual inspection- this has been on my mind way before someone tried to get our latest newbie to sell his Tiger CHEAP. LOL and teasing of course. Cheers, TtT --- On Fri, 4/16/10, wsamouce at kc.rr.com wrote: From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks To: Tigers at autox.team.net, "mike schreiner" Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 10:47 AM OMG PEOPLE....................just sell your Tigers and walk. Then again, you might get hit by a meteor or bus. Give it a rest. Duke B382002037 (ready to kill me at any moment and I love it) ---- mike schreiner wrote: > What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear? Mike > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From rfraser at bluefrog.com Fri Apr 16 11:50:13 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:50:13 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again In-Reply-To: <100140.68977.qm@web38106.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joel It your Tiger. We know that the original 260 engine was painted Blue so paint it the shade of Ford Blue you like best. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: Joel Martin [mailto:jmartiniii at yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 1:26 PM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; David T Johnson Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Engine Paint Colors - again Dave/Ron I am leaning towards following the advice found in the Ford Engine colors guide link supplied. With a B19KC motor designation for a 1966 MK 1A, this guide indicates for 1966 - 1968 Corporate Ford Blue or Duplicolor DE 1621 (Old Ford Blue). BON just indicates 'Old Ford Dark Blue'. The guide use verbage Old Ford Blue DE1601 for 63-65, Corporate Ford Blue DE 1621 (Old Ford Blue) for 1966-1968 and Ford Blue DE 1606 (Ford Dark Blue) for 1969-1981. None of the DE descriptions uses "all" the verbage from BON of 'Old Ford Dark Blue'. Not the low road (lighter DE1601) or the high/darker road DE1606 but straight down the middle - DE1621 based on the year 1966 from the Ford Engine Colors guide and BON (Guess) that B382000601 to end is Old Ford Dark Blue - what ever that is based on Duplicolor descriptions. Joel From cars at wt-inc.com Fri Apr 16 12:23:46 2010 From: cars at wt-inc.com (Lynn Wall) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:23:46 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Exploding and fiery list content In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC620@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> References: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC620@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: <003601cadd91$f49089b0$ddb19d10$@com> I agree. As things need repair fix it with the best stuff you can and get the best advice in doing so. But some of the hysterics don't add up to reality. If we knew the actual risk of things we do every day we would sit in our houses in the fetal position. Everybody knows or has heard about something happening to somebody that is really scary. Personally I think you have more risk of personal harm telling your wife your opinion of her new hair style then driving a Tiger (even aggressively). Lynn (watching his words when his wife asks "does this dress make me look fat?" yet still nailing the throttle of his tiger on every on ramp) -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Smit, Theo Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 9:59 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Exploding and fiery list content In retrospect (hopefully we can let this die down) I think that the message should be: Have fun with your Tiger  its why you bought it. In stock form, its no more intrinsically dangerous than any other high powered 60s British car that was engineered on a tight budget. If there are things about it that make you uneasy from a safety or reliability point of view, then get those things checked out by someone whose judgment you value. If stuff needs repair, then use the best parts and procedures you can afford, consistent with how you plan to use your car. Theo ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cars at wt-inc.com From maliburevue at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 12:30:34 2010 From: maliburevue at yahoo.com (Gary) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:30:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <322042.35887.qm@web33201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Once again, more car than the average driver can handle. It only takes money to buy one, not driving skills. --- On Fri, 4/16/10, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: From: MAURO D'ANGELO Subject: Re: [Tigers] Risky Business To: "michael king" Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 3:12 AM Right. As I said, if something were to happen in one of my 911s, it would be because of human error, not mechanical failure. My point was simply that all the talk of the extreme lack of confidence in the Tiger's chassis and drivetrain components is very scary and probably not at all helpful in attracting or maintaining interest in the car. On the contrary. Also, for those cars that stay off the track, all or most of that talk is irrelevant and therefore highly unproductive. Neither of my 911s is a 930 or Turbo. The 930 was called the widow maker. Also, the 930 (Turbo) was known as the car that killed the most sports stars. You may also know that the original 930 is the car that caused the coining of the term, 3turbo lag2, which was the initial quality/behavior that caused many drivers to be caught by surprise when the power all finally kicked in, to freak out, overcompensate, lose control of their cars and end up off the street. Mauro On 4/15/10 10:09 PM, "michael king" wrote: > > > On 16 April 2010 11:22, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: >> As a matter of fact, I am one of those people, and I do not fully trust my >> car yet because of all of this talk. I really love my Tiger, but I feel so >> much more comfortable (and safe) in my Porsche because I know it won't try >> to kill or maim me. > Not sure what year porsche you have but they were know as the "widow makers" > especially the early 930 (911 turbo) .. though as with all cars.. genrally > accidents happen due to the drivers skill base/aspirations not matching the > cars potential.... and i have driven more porsches than most... > _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/maliburevue at yahoo.com From slaifman at socal.rr.com Fri Apr 16 12:51:56 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 11:51:56 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <7.0.0.16.2.20100416084250.025e9968@comcast.net> References: <1512980198.2003676.1271427699230.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net> <7.0.0.16.2.20100416084250.025e9968@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4BC8B1CC.3050407@socal.rr.com> Tigers, Be very, very, thankful to those with the technical expertise and experience, like Tom Hall, Dan Walters, Theo Smit, and many, many others for sharing their knowledge and experience with us. OR Wish you had after you got in trouble. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Tom Hall wrote: > At 07:21 AM 4/16/2010, you wrote: >> ... I'm truly surprised that all you engineers do not understand how >> damaging this is to the reputation of this car. >> >> ... What's more surprising is that no one is saying that these >> problems are not only tied to our cool Tigers, but to all or most >> classic cars of the era, to include Cobras and other highly sought >> muscle cars. But go to a Mustang or Cobra forum and you won't find >> these dire warnings of impending doom. Let's try to at least put >> strong caveats above our warnings. Right? >> >> Mauro > > Let me get this straight, You think it's advisable, to advance the > reputation of the marque, that those of us with historic understanding > of certain design limitations and or possible shortcomings, should > remain silent on these subjects. I think that Toyota is currently > proving that this direction is not the best alternative. Most of us > "engineers" have recognized and discussed these risk situations and > are advising that mitigating them requires some action on the part of > owners that for the most part, request the help and advice from the list. > > Relative "Risk" is a very personal interpretation. If you ask for > advise and I scare you with stories of component failure, and you buy > my Chassis Reinforcement Kit to strengthen your frame, or you direct > your restoration to replace components that have been historically > subject to cyclic fatigue failures, have I helped you or hurt you? > > Do you smoke? Can you believe that anyone, given the state of > knowledge of that risk, would ever even consider smoking? How do they > even manage to sell cigarettes? > > As a Professional Engineer, I consider that advising fellow Tiger > owners of risk factors that I have historical, direct or even > peripheral and specific knowledge of, to be my social responsibility. > Same goes for "authenticity". If my TAC activities keep you from > buying a car that was not manufactured as a Tiger by Rootes, I'm also > reducing your risk factor, even if it is simply financial. You have > to judge your own level of acceptable risk. Asking other to remain > silent or severely muted, is not really helpful in my opinion. Anyone > driving a 40 year old car has a much different perspective on driving > safety than the general public. Most of the contributors on this list > are simply trying to share their enjoyment and help others enjoy their > Tigers to the fullest while acknowledging certain common problems. > > > Tom Hall > ModTiger Engineering LLC > www.tigerengineering.net From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 16 14:02:49 2010 From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:02:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! Message-ID: <653684.45124.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> "What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear?" Don't drive a 1960's Mustang if fire worries you. The floor of a Mustang trunk is the top of the gas tank with only the rear seat back as a firewall. Back in the day the worker inserted the gas tank through the trunk opening. It was done that way to make it easier to install the gas tank while the car moved down the assembly line. Face it, these old cars are more dangerous to drive than todays cars. Jeff From rfraser at bluefrog.com Fri Apr 16 14:05:14 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:05:14 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Exploding and fiery list content In-Reply-To: <003601cadd91$f49089b0$ddb19d10$@com> Message-ID: <5F327ABBC9AE4F8A81A159CE5DB8FE29@ronpc1> Careful there was a house out in the country here that recently blew up due to a propane leak so your not safe at home either. Watching a guy drive by you on an interstate with both hands on the pizza he is stuffing into his mouth or the guy reading the newspaper on the way to work is way more scarier. I say drive your Tiger and enjoy the experience. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lynn Wall Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 2:24 PM To: 'Smit, Theo'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Exploding and fiery list content I agree. As things need repair fix it with the best stuff you can and get the best advice in doing so. But some of the hysterics don't add up to reality. If we knew the actual risk of things we do every day we would sit in our houses in the fetal position. Everybody knows or has heard about something happening to somebody that is really scary. Personally I think you have more risk of personal harm telling your wife your opinion of her new hair style then driving a Tiger (even aggressively). Lynn (watching his words when his wife asks "does this dress make me look fat?" yet still nailing the throttle of his tiger on every on ramp) -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Smit, Theo Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 9:59 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Exploding and fiery list content In retrospect (hopefully we can let this die down) I think that the message should be: Have fun with your Tiger  its why you bought it. In stock form, its no more intrinsically dangerous than any other high powered 60s British car that was engineered on a tight budget. If there are things about it that make you uneasy from a safety or reliability point of view, then get those things checked out by someone whose judgment you value. If stuff needs repair, then use the best parts and procedures you can afford, consistent with how you plan to use your car. Theo ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/cars at wt-inc.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2812 - Release Date: 04/16/10 06:31:00 From spmdr at juno.com Fri Apr 16 14:14:38 2010 From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:14:38 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] no good deed... Message-ID: <20100416.131438.3452.0.spmdr@juno.com> ...goes unpunished! DW ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc8c578b16334e038m07vuc From gpointer at telusplanet.net Fri Apr 16 14:20:12 2010 From: gpointer at telusplanet.net (Pointers) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:20:12 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT Message-ID: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> Listers with engine experience, pls weigh in. Have been following and benefited tremendously from this list for a decade...now I need you guys to come thru in spades, or it'll be a long summer! Near the end of a morning outing where I was just warming up the oil for changing, running it up to 60 MPH on hard acceleration (not high revs), thought I heard something ticking at the stop light. When back home, sure enough, there was a tick/knock coming from the passenger bank. Best I can describe is not a real tick, but not a solid bottom end knock either. Something in-between that, mid-block (if I'm making any sense), quite audible. Anyhow, parked it while I sought advice and searched the net. Got varied info. Summer ended (Canada). Was going to trailer it to storage (`10 miles), but thought I'd fire it up, and low and behold, no noise! None whatsoever. After about 5 miles, no prob, so applied full throttle to 60 MPH, and the exact same noise was present again. Time to park the dog sled team, fetch the car from storage and tackle the issue. All suggestions appreciated. The winning recommendation gets to share the bill! (My wish is for a simple remedy...engine cleaner oil additive...that sort of thing. Anything requiring more time + $ may not get done soon). Engine = 302 with stock internals. Gary Pointer St. Albert, Alberta From mark.rense at ge.com Fri Apr 16 14:30:00 2010 From: mark.rense at ge.com (Rense, Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:30:00 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <4BC8B1CC.3050407@socal.rr.com> References: <1512980198.2003676.1271427699230.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net><7.0.0.16.2.20100416084250.025e9968@comcast.net> <4BC8B1CC.3050407@socal.rr.com> Message-ID: It's all about perspective. I used to hold an AMA National Number and raced 250GP and Superbikes in the early '80's. To me my stroker-engined Tigers are relatively safe! Bugz From spmdr at juno.com Fri Apr 16 14:39:10 2010 From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:39:10 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Flywheels Message-ID: <20100416.133911.3452.1.spmdr@juno.com> Let's take a walk in MY shoes. I see a guy wanting to save some money with his stroker kit. ...and he wants to use his Original flywheel. What do I tell him... NOT a thing? ...I'll JUST keep MY FEET out of his car..thank you very much! ...but it's hard to see the (old) flywheel from the drivers seat. My point WAS they are NOT that expensive! ...for now... And, yes, lighting season is winding down... :-( But, the BIG ONE is coming! ...I'm getting the popcorn and soda ready! :-) DW ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc8cb2fd7d594e211m07vuc From spmdr at juno.com Fri Apr 16 14:42:16 2010 From: spmdr at juno.com (spmdr at juno.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:42:16 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] The hardest thing... Message-ID: <20100416.134217.3452.3.spmdr@juno.com> The hardest thing to explain is the glaringly evident which everybody had decided not to see. Ayn Rand DW ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc8cbe55af974e23fm07vuc From slaifman at socal.rr.com Fri Apr 16 14:55:11 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:55:11 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! In-Reply-To: <653684.45124.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <653684.45124.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BC8CEAF.3000605@socal.rr.com> Jeff, I can get you a great deal on a slightly used Toyota. If you wait long enough, they'll pay you to get them off their lot. ;-) Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Jeffrey Nichols wrote: > "What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my > fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from > the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of > a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear?" > > Don't drive a 1960's Mustang if fire worries you. The floor of a Mustang > trunk is the top of the gas tank with only the rear seat back as a > firewall. Back in the day the worker inserted the gas tank through the trunk > opening. It was done that way to make it easier to install the gas tank > while the car moved down the assembly line. Face it, these old cars are more > dangerous to drive than todays cars. > > > Jeff From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 14:58:21 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:58:21 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Fire_in_the_hole=2C_=2E=2E=2Ecar!?= Message-ID: <20100416205821.8F99318764B@autox.team.net> Run! Run for your lives! Leave the keys.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jeffrey Nichols" Date: Fri, Apr 16, 2010 16:02 Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! To: "What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear?" Don't drive a 1960's Mustang if fire worries you. The floor of a Mustang trunk is the top of the gas tank with only the rear seat back as a firewall. Back in the day the worker inserted the gas tank through the trunk opening. It was done that way to make it easier to install the gas tank while the car moved down the assembly line. Face it, these old cars are more dangerous to drive than todays cars. Jeff _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From prbreuhan at hotmail.com Fri Apr 16 15:27:53 2010 From: prbreuhan at hotmail.com (Paul R. Breuhan) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 17:27:53 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! In-Reply-To: <653684.45124.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <653684.45124.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: In high school, a friend's VW Bug had its back seat catch on fire while we were driving to school one morning. Also personal experience tells me a burst remote oil filter line and header wrap are not a good thing on a Tiger. Paul > Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:02:49 -0700 > From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! > > "What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my > fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from > the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of > a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear?" > > Don't drive a 1960's Mustang if fire worries you. The floor of a Mustang > trunk is the top of the gas tank with only the rear seat back as a > firewall. Back in the day the worker inserted the gas tank through the trunk > opening. It was done that way to make it easier to install the gas tank > while the car moved down the assembly line. Face it, these old cars are more > dangerous to drive than todays cars. > > > Jeff _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Fri Apr 16 15:29:41 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:29:41 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT In-Reply-To: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> References: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC700@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> A rocker stud might have come out of adjustment (i.e. loose) or pulled from the head, and depending on some factors, the rocker is hitting the baffle in the valve cover? Do you have the aluminum LAT valve covers or the chromed steel ones? Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pointers > Sent: April 16, 2010 2:20 PM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT > > Listers with engine experience, pls weigh in. Have been following and > benefited tremendously from this list for a decade...now I need you > guys to > come thru in spades, or it'll be a long summer! > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From John.Dillman at PUBLICANS.com Fri Apr 16 15:39:40 2010 From: John.Dillman at PUBLICANS.com (John Dillman) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:39:40 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business Message-ID: I think that Laifman guy has some good points from time to time, too ;) John Dillman Subject: Re: [Tigers] Risky Business To: Tom Hall Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Message-ID: <4BC8B1CC.3050407 at socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Tigers, Be very, very, thankful to those with the technical expertise and experience, like Tom Hall, Dan Walters, Theo Smit, and many, many others for sharing their knowledge and experience with us. OR Wish you had after you got in trouble. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com From s_ralsten at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 15:40:45 2010 From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 14:40:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: References: <1512980198.2003676.1271427699230.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net><7.0.0.16.2.20100416084250.025e9968@comcast.net> <4BC8B1CC.3050407@socal.rr.com> Message-ID: <78465.67557.qm@web114118.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Agent 99... But Max if you drive that Tiger in every show the flywheel could explode or the fulcrum pins could break. The gas tank might explode or even the u joint could break. You'll be alone and in great danger every moment. Max.... "and loving it" From gabbardalex at att.net Fri Apr 16 15:52:50 2010 From: gabbardalex at att.net (gabbardalex at att.net) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 21:52:50 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] drim to disc conversion Message-ID: <041620102152.24148.4BC8DC31000DF6EB00005E5422243323629B0A02D29B9B0EBF980A040E0B9D0E0D0D0E09@att.net> Any recommendations/advice concerning converting rear drums to discs? Anybody done it? If so, what parts are needed? Also, any advice on converting the solid front disc brakes to vented rotors? Anybody done it? From TIGEROOTES at aol.com Fri Apr 16 16:02:42 2010 From: TIGEROOTES at aol.com (TIGEROOTES at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:02:42 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Tiger Gas Tanks Message-ID: <11cb2.56a3e2f9.38fa3882@aol.com> Mike, I have five photos taken in rapid sequence of a Tiger on a California racetrack in about 1969 on fire, apparently do to a burst fuel tank. I also made an animated .gif from those photos. Not a pretty sight. The car is currently owned by Bob Ground, who will be restoring it. If there's interest from anyone here in seeing these photos, drop me a note off-list and I'll zap them to all at the same time. Jim Leach Pacific Tiger Club Seattle From hokey at oasisol.com Fri Apr 16 16:10:48 2010 From: hokey at oasisol.com (Mike Hokanson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:10:48 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Flywheel Explosions/Fire/Havoc Message-ID: Seems were getting to the paranoid stage. Toyotas keep going... and going... and going even when you don't want them to. Worst case scenario is the high-maintenance inattentive soccer-mom wrecklessly running through every intersection in the country in her SUV with a cell phone planted in her ear. Seems to be the most dangerous situation there is. Doesn't matter what you're driving - the Sunbeam, Mustang, F150, etc. - she's still gonna hammer ya and it's gonna hurt. If we're gonna be uneasy about cruising in the Sunbeam, just think about all the poor souls who invested in the Corvair who rolled them over. Best thing to do is install a set of 6' patio doors in your dining room and roll the Tiger into the house. Safest place for it and you won't worry about the issues. Don't need to wash it anymore and it'll always be pristine as it sits under the big screen on the wall. You can sleep well knowing your sports car won't hurt you. Other option is to enjoy the car, drive the hell out of it and quit being a wuss about what may never happen. Bottom line - driving a car such as a Tiger is a risk that you should enjoy. If it all goes wrong, at least you had a big smile on your face. Mike Hokanson From m_dangelo at verizon.net Fri Apr 16 16:23:18 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:23:18 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <7.0.0.16.2.20100416084250.025e9968@comcast.net> Message-ID: Tom, First of all, I would like for you to know that I was not singling you out at all. I also was not saying that those with experience should not let people know where the car's shortcomings are. I used to be the fleet manager of an airline (years ago), so I happen to be highly attuned to the notion of safety and preventive maintenance. What I am saying is quite simple: I do not think it is at all helpful to scare people with stories of getting their feet buzz sawed off by their flywheels -- unless you specify that you are talking about cars that are being raced. My point -- and I really do not think you can argue with me on it -- is that for the most part, cars being driven on the street are probably not candidates for self destruction. Thank you. Mauro On 4/16/10 1:00 PM, "Tom Hall" wrote: > At 07:21 AM 4/16/2010, you wrote: >> ... I'm truly surprised that all you engineers do not understand how >> damaging this is to the reputation of this car. >> >> ... What's more surprising is that no one is saying that these >> problems are not only tied to our cool Tigers, but to all or most >> classic cars of the era, to include Cobras and other highly sought >> muscle cars. But go to a Mustang or Cobra forum and you won't find >> these dire warnings of impending doom. Let's try to at least put >> strong caveats above our warnings. Right? >> >> Mauro > > Let me get this straight, You think it's advisable, to advance the > reputation of the marque, that those of us with historic > understanding of certain design limitations and or possible > shortcomings, should remain silent on these subjects. I think that > Toyota is currently proving that this direction is not the best > alternative. Most of us "engineers" have recognized and discussed > these risk situations and are advising that mitigating them requires > some action on the part of owners that for the most part, request the > help and advice from the list. > > Relative "Risk" is a very personal interpretation. If you ask for > advise and I scare you with stories of component failure, and you buy > my Chassis Reinforcement Kit to strengthen your frame, or you direct > your restoration to replace components that have been historically > subject to cyclic fatigue failures, have I helped you or hurt you? > > Do you smoke? Can you believe that anyone, given the state of > knowledge of that risk, would ever even consider smoking? How do > they even manage to sell cigarettes? > > As a Professional Engineer, I consider that advising fellow Tiger > owners of risk factors that I have historical, direct or even > peripheral and specific knowledge of, to be my social > responsibility. Same goes for "authenticity". If my TAC activities > keep you from buying a car that was not manufactured as a Tiger by > Rootes, I'm also reducing your risk factor, even if it is simply > financial. You have to judge your own level of acceptable > risk. Asking other to remain silent or severely muted, is not really > helpful in my opinion. Anyone driving a 40 year old car has a much > different perspective on driving safety than the general > public. Most of the contributors on this list are simply trying to > share their enjoyment and help others enjoy their Tigers to the > fullest while acknowledging certain common problems. > > > Tom Hall > ModTiger Engineering LLC > www.tigerengineering.net From m_dangelo at verizon.net Fri Apr 16 16:36:05 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:36:05 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: Message-ID: ...at least any more than other classic cars. (further to my previous email) On 4/16/10 6:23 PM, "MAURO D'ANGELO" wrote: > Tom, > > First of all, I would like for you to know that I was not singling you out at > all. I also was not saying that those with experience should not let people > know where the car's shortcomings are. I used to be the fleet manager of an > airline (years ago), so I happen to be highly attuned to the notion of safety > and preventive maintenance. What I am saying is quite simple: I do not think > it is at all helpful to scare people with stories of getting their feet buzz > sawed off by their flywheels -- unless you specify that you are talking about > cars that are being raced. My point -- and I really do not think you can > argue with me on it -- is that for the most part, cars being driven on the > street are probably not candidates for self destruction. Thank you. Mauro > > > On 4/16/10 1:00 PM, "Tom Hall" wrote: > >> At 07:21 AM 4/16/2010, you wrote: >>> ... I'm truly surprised that all you engineers do not understand how >>> damaging this is to the reputation of this car. >>> >>> ... What's more surprising is that no one is saying that these >>> problems are not only tied to our cool Tigers, but to all or most >>> classic cars of the era, to include Cobras and other highly sought >>> muscle cars. But go to a Mustang or Cobra forum and you won't find >>> these dire warnings of impending doom. Let's try to at least put >>> strong caveats above our warnings. Right? >>> >>> Mauro >> >> Let me get this straight, You think it's advisable, to advance the >> reputation of the marque, that those of us with historic >> understanding of certain design limitations and or possible >> shortcomings, should remain silent on these subjects. I think that >> Toyota is currently proving that this direction is not the best >> alternative. Most of us "engineers" have recognized and discussed >> these risk situations and are advising that mitigating them requires >> some action on the part of owners that for the most part, request the >> help and advice from the list. >> >> Relative "Risk" is a very personal interpretation. If you ask for >> advise and I scare you with stories of component failure, and you buy >> my Chassis Reinforcement Kit to strengthen your frame, or you direct >> your restoration to replace components that have been historically >> subject to cyclic fatigue failures, have I helped you or hurt you? >> >> Do you smoke? Can you believe that anyone, given the state of >> knowledge of that risk, would ever even consider smoking? How do >> they even manage to sell cigarettes? >> >> As a Professional Engineer, I consider that advising fellow Tiger >> owners of risk factors that I have historical, direct or even >> peripheral and specific knowledge of, to be my social >> responsibility. Same goes for "authenticity". If my TAC activities >> keep you from buying a car that was not manufactured as a Tiger by >> Rootes, I'm also reducing your risk factor, even if it is simply >> financial. You have to judge your own level of acceptable >> risk. Asking other to remain silent or severely muted, is not really >> helpful in my opinion. Anyone driving a 40 year old car has a much >> different perspective on driving safety than the general >> public. Most of the contributors on this list are simply trying to >> share their enjoyment and help others enjoy their Tigers to the >> fullest while acknowledging certain common problems. >> >> >> Tom Hall >> ModTiger Engineering LLC >> www.tigerengineering.net From tkparker1941 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 16:43:26 2010 From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:43:26 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT In-Reply-To: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> References: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> Message-ID: This'll be fun to listen to... Gary, How many miles on the engine? You could try a tune up... plugs, points, etc. and check the timing. And an oil change with good oil. I'll assume you know what a rod and main knock sound like, and what a wrist pin knock sounds like (much higher pitched...) You can probably eliminate for the moment piston slap; that normally happens when the engine is cold. Assuming that you do, what's left in the engine? Lifters, sticky valves. valve springs. Maybe spark knock if the fuel is really old or the timing's out. First suggestion, drive the car without over-reving it. Maybe an easy fifty MPH or so (around 2,000 rpm if you have close to stock tires on it... the diameter's the thing... @ 23 - 24"). See if it "ticks" at you when the engine's good and warm. If it does, try and locate the cylinder with a stethascope (or long screwdriver, but be safe!) If it doesn't, recreate the noise at higher revs and try to isolate it. If it's a lifter, any good oil additive (except STP... too darn thick!) may help. STP gas treatment, Wynns, Bardahl (I'm showing my age; are they still around?). Maybe some Marvel Mystery Oil added to the oil on the next change. The point is first you have to isolate it. Frequently that's not an easy thing to do. Good hunting. Tom On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 4:20 PM, Pointers wrote: > Listers with engine experience, pls weigh in. Have been following and > benefited tremendously from this list for a decade...now I need you guys to > come thru in spades, or it'll be a long summer! > > Near the end of a morning outing where I was just warming up the oil for > changing, running it up to 60 MPH on hard acceleration (not high revs), > thought I heard something ticking at the stop light. When back home, sure > enough, there was a tick/knock coming from the passenger bank. Best I can > describe is not a real tick, but not a solid bottom end knock either. > Something in-between that, mid-block (if I'm making any sense), quite > audible. > Anyhow, parked it while I sought advice and searched the net. Got varied > info. > Summer ended (Canada). Was going to trailer it to storage (`10 miles), but > thought I'd fire it up, and low and behold, no noise! None whatsoever. > After > about 5 miles, no prob, so applied full throttle to 60 MPH, and the exact > same > noise was present again. > > Time to park the dog sled team, fetch the car from storage and tackle the > issue. All suggestions appreciated. The winning recommendation gets to > share > the bill! (My wish is for a simple remedy...engine cleaner oil > additive...that > sort of thing. Anything requiring more time + $ may not get done soon). > > Engine = 302 with stock internals. > > Gary Pointer > St. Albert, Alberta > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com From m_dangelo at verizon.net Fri Apr 16 16:48:03 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:48:03 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 In-Reply-To: <11cb2.56a3e2f9.38fa3882@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi all. I have been told that the dimensions of the water pump in the workshop manual are incorrect. Argh. The manual says 5.4 inches or 13.8 centimeters from the mounting surface to the face of the fan hub. So, does anyone know the correct measurement from the fan hub face (where the fan bolts on) to the mounting surface on the later type of water pump on the Mark 2's 289 engine? This information would be very helpful to me. Thanks. Mauro From tkparker1941 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 16:53:20 2010 From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:53:20 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] drim to disc conversion In-Reply-To: <041620102152.24148.4BC8DC31000DF6EB00005E5422243323629B0A02D29B9B0EBF980A040E0B9D0E0D0D0E09@att.net> References: <041620102152.24148.4BC8DC31000DF6EB00005E5422243323629B0A02D29B9B0EBF980A040E0B9D0E0D0D0E09@att.net> Message-ID: Dale's. Both counts. (But he ain't cheap!) Tom On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 5:52 PM, wrote: > Any recommendations/advice concerning converting rear drums to discs? > Anybody done it? If so, what parts are needed? > > Also, any advice on converting the solid front disc brakes to vented > rotors? Anybody done it? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Fri Apr 16 17:00:44 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:00:44 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] drim to disc conversion In-Reply-To: <041620102152.24148.4BC8DC31000DF6EB00005E5422243323629B0A02D29B9B0EBF980A040E0B9D0E0D0D0E09@att.net> References: <041620102152.24148.4BC8DC31000DF6EB00005E5422243323629B0A02D29B9B0EBF980A040E0B9D0E0D0D0E09@att.net> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC742@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> The most straightforward thing, is to talk to Dale Akuszewski at Dale's Restorations in San Diego, figure out which setup you want to go with, and give him your credit card number. There are any number of different 'other' ways it can be done, but all of them require a decent amount of research and custom part fabrication. It depends on your skill set and tool availability. I did my own, along with a dual master cylinder and balance bar setup, but by the time it was done I probably spent nearly as much money and lots more time, compared to getting Dale's setup. My work on the rear brakes: http://members.shaw.ca/tsmit/5boltwheels/wheels.html Dale's webpage: www.dalesresto.com Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gabbardalex at att.net > Sent: April 16, 2010 3:53 PM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] drim to disc conversion > > Any recommendations/advice concerning converting rear drums to discs? > Anybody done it? If so, what parts are needed? > > Also, any advice on converting the solid front disc brakes to vented > rotors? Anybody done it? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From s_ralsten at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 17:12:46 2010 From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:12:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! In-Reply-To: References: <653684.45124.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <865226.39821.qm@web114114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> In high school my Cortina caught fire on the freeway. Burning smell then thick smoke from under dash I could just barely see well enought to get to the shoulder. Elec short burnt the whole wire harness. Steve ________________________________ From: Paul R. Breuhan To: Jeff Nichols ; Tigers Den Sent: Fri, April 16, 2010 2:27:53 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! In high school, a friend's VW Bug had its back seat catch on fire while we were driving to school one morning. Also personal experience tells me a burst remote oil filter line and header wrap are not a good thing on a Tiger. Paul > Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:02:49 -0700 > From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! > > "What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my > fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from > the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of > a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear?" > > Don't drive a 1960's Mustang if fire worries you. The floor of a Mustang > trunk is the top of the gas tank with only the rear seat back as a > firewall. Back in the day the worker inserted the gas tank through the trunk > opening. It was done that way to make it easier to install the gas tank > while the car moved down the assembly line. Face it, these old cars are more > dangerous to drive than todays cars. > > > Jeff _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten at yahoo.com From michael.s.king at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 17:50:04 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:50:04 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT In-Reply-To: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> References: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> Message-ID: > Near the end of a morning outing where I was just warming up the oil for > changing, running it up to 60 MPH on hard acceleration (not high revs), > thought I heard something ticking at the stop light. When back home, sure > enough, there was a tick/knock coming from the passenger bank. Best I can > describe is not a real tick, but not a solid bottom end knock either. > Something in-between that, mid-block (if I'm making any sense), quite > audible. > You say its sort of a ticking noise?.. and comes from mid block.. its hard to know without hearing.. but if enigne is running as normal.. perhaps an exhaust leak at the heads where the manifolds mount.. do you have headers? -- Regards Michael King From gpointer at telusplanet.net Fri Apr 16 17:52:54 2010 From: gpointer at telusplanet.net (Pointers) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:52:54 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT Message-ID: Appreciate the quick responses. Answers consolidated: Theo: Chromed steel covers Kirk: Yes, hydraulic lifters Tom: - # miles on the engine unknown. - No, not experienced to tune in the diff between rod & main vs wrist pin knocks. - Believe I had isolated it to either #2 or #3 cylinders, via long screw driver to ear. - Re: additives. The guy who brokered the sale of the car 15 yrs ago, swore by Rislone Engine Treatment and suggested I run it through. I bought a litre at that time. Still sitting in the garage, as it has run great until this. Maybe I'll run it through. From alittlemoreink at hotmail.com Fri Apr 16 18:19:31 2010 From: alittlemoreink at hotmail.com (John Crawley) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 00:19:31 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Boy you guys think the TIGER is dangerous . . . try driving a 56 year old MGTF  suicide doors held closed with funny little cast door latches that usually only hook on the first notch, a body that is made of more wood than tin, floor boards that really are boards, no seat belts, a steering column that is solid and aimed at the centre of your chest. So little power it can not get out of the way of its own shadow and brakes that might (or might not) stop a soapbox derby car. Top all this off with a bonnet (held in place with a couple of > inch long wood screws) and then consider that if you run into a discarded marshmallow or a stray mushroom on the road the bonnet will most likely break loose and be aimed at the spot that your head and body are connected. And remember also that the windscreen is DESIGNED to fold down and in the case of a rollover the highest point in the car is a spot about 4 inches above you navel. So do we care? Na drive em all till the road wears out. :-) Jc _________________________________________________________________ Got a phone? Get Hotmail & Messenger for mobile! http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9724464 From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 18:37:24 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 17:37:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! In-Reply-To: <865226.39821.qm@web114114.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <829334.48011.qm@web111605.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> What another English car with electrical issure. The Prince rules. The VW was prone to back seat fires if you did not use a battery that had a cover over the positive post. Sit down and the seat springs would touch the positive post and voila A hot seat. I've heard of many hard hits on the Tigers rear with no gas tanks problems. Uncle Wally's hit was so hard that his rear end was hit so hard that the engine mounts broke. No leakage. Its like the fenders protect the tanks. Dave --- On Fri, 4/16/10, Steve Ralsten wrote: From: Steve Ralsten Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! To: "Paul R. Breuhan" , "Jeff Nichols" , "Tigers Den" Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 11:12 PM In high school my Cortina caught fire on the freeway. Burning smell then thick smoke from under dash I could just barely see well enought to get to the shoulder. Elec short burnt the whole wire harness. Steve ________________________________ From: Paul R. Breuhan To: Jeff Nichols ; Tigers Den Sent: Fri, April 16, 2010 2:27:53 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! In high school, a friend's VW Bug had its back seat catch on fire while we were driving to school one morning. Also personal experience tells me a burst remote oil filter line and header wrap are not a good thing on a Tiger. Paul > Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 13:02:49 -0700 > From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Fire in the hole, ...car! > > "What about the gas tanks......Located in the fenders and crossover tubes, my > fear has always been getting hit in rear with a fire...also the opening from > the trunk to the cockpit (with the top up) scares me....Anyone ever heaqrd of > a sunbeam exploding in flames when hit in rear?" > > Don't drive a 1960's Mustang if fire worries you. The floor of a Mustang > trunk is the top of the gas tank with only the rear seat back as a > firewall. Back in the day the worker inserted the gas tank through the trunk > opening. It was done that way to make it easier to install the gas tank > while the car moved down the assembly line. Face it, these old cars are more > dangerous to drive than todays cars. > > > Jeff _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From rsdslp at juno.com Fri Apr 16 20:06:13 2010 From: rsdslp at juno.com (Robert Dobrowski) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 19:06:13 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT Message-ID: <20100416.190621.-456849.1.rsdslp@juno.com> Lifter isn't pumping up On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:20:12 -0500 "Pointers" writes: > Listers with engine experience, pls weigh in. Have been following and > benefited tremendously from this list for a decade...now I need you > guys to > come thru in spades, or it'll be a long summer! > > Near the end of a morning outing where I was just warming up the oil > for > changing, running it up to 60 MPH on hard acceleration (not high > revs), > thought I heard something ticking at the stop light. When back home, > sure > enough, there was a tick/knock coming from the passenger bank. Best > I can > describe is not a real tick, but not a solid bottom end knock > either. > Something in-between that, mid-block (if I'm making any sense), > quite audible. > Anyhow, parked it while I sought advice and searched the net. Got > varied info. > Summer ended (Canada). Was going to trailer it to storage (`10 > miles), but > thought I'd fire it up, and low and behold, no noise! None > whatsoever. After > about 5 miles, no prob, so applied full throttle to 60 MPH, and the > exact same > noise was present again. > > Time to park the dog sled team, fetch the car from storage and > tackle the > issue. All suggestions appreciated. The winning recommendation gets > to share > the bill! (My wish is for a simple remedy...engine cleaner oil > additive...that > sort of thing. Anything requiring more time + $ may not get done > soon). > > Engine = 302 with stock internals. > > Gary Pointer > St. Albert, Alberta > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rsdslp at juno.com > > ____________________________________________________________ 3.44% APR - Refinance Now $200,000 Mortgage for $898/Month! No Hidden Fees. Refi & Save w/DPR! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc917c0d43c47469m07duc From tkparker1941 at gmail.com Fri Apr 16 20:24:43 2010 From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 22:24:43 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 In-Reply-To: References: <11cb2.56a3e2f9.38fa3882@aol.com> Message-ID: Mauro, If you're looking to replace the water pump you might order one from Rick at SS. It says "cast iron" but it isn't. Aluminum, I think, very light compared to the old Ford pump I had on the car. It fits the 289 timing cover exactly. I measure 5 1/4" from the mounting surface to the front of the hub - pulley & fan removed. With everything installed - fan, crank pulley, alternator - the belt lines up exactly (as opposed to the Ford pump which had the flange too far forward so the belt was out of alignment). Tom On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:48 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: > Hi all. I have been told that the dimensions of the water pump in the > workshop manual are incorrect. Argh. The manual says 5.4 inches or 13.8 > centimeters from the mounting surface to the face of the fan hub. So, does > anyone know the correct measurement from the fan hub face (where the fan > bolts on) to the mounting surface on the later type of water pump on the > Mark 2's 289 engine? This information would be very helpful to me. > Thanks. > Mauro > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com From m_dangelo at verizon.net Fri Apr 16 20:28:45 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 22:28:45 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Thanks a lot. I appreciate that. Mauro On 4/16/10 10:24 PM, "Tom Parker" wrote: > Mauro, > > If you're looking to replace the water pump you might order one from Rick at > SS. It says "cast iron" but it isn't. Aluminum, I think, very light compared > to the old Ford pump I had on the car. It fits the 289 timing cover exactly. > > I measure 5 1/4" from the mounting surface to the front of the hub - pulley & > fan removed. With everything installed - fan, crank pulley, alternator - the > belt lines up exactly (as opposed to the Ford pump which had the flange too > far forward so the belt was out of alignment). > > Tom > > On Fri, Apr 16, 2010 at 6:48 PM, MAURO D'ANGELO wrote: >> Hi all. I have been told that the dimensions of the water pump in the >> workshop manual are incorrect. Argh. The manual says 5.4 inches or 13.8 >> centimeters from the mounting surface to the face of the fan hub. So, does >> anyone know the correct measurement from the fan hub face (where the fan >> bolts on) to the mounting surface on the later type of water pump on the >> Mark 2's 289 engine? This information would be very helpful to me. Thanks. >> Mauro >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com From hallmotors at cox.net Fri Apr 16 20:34:06 2010 From: hallmotors at cox.net (Hall Motors) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 21:34:06 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag Message-ID: <007201caddd6$73e04d60$5ba0e820$@net> Rear shoes (especially driver side) stay engaged against drum (i.e. drag/lock) after engaging the brakes with the brake pedal. Even after adjusting the shoes off the drum via the square head brake adjuster bolt on the vacuum plate, engaging brakes with pedal will reintroduce the drag/lock condition. The brake system (actually the whole car) is original configuration. The car has sit for several months at a time over the last two years. I've inspected the shoes (fine) and bled the system. I'm thinking there may be some crystallized fluid (due to moisture absorption) in the wheel cylinders, but wanted to know if any of you guys have had the same problem or have other ideas before I tear into the cylinders. Thanks, Brad Hall B382000609LRXFE From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 16 20:44:29 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 19:44:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Exploding Flywheels In-Reply-To: <20100416.083719.2480.1.spmdr@juno.com> Message-ID: <172320.5975.qm@web111601.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I've got my engine on the ground and this thread has been great. Years ago I had my flywheel surfaced when I replaced the clutch. Rick McLeod had a returned special built McCloed clutch that he saold me very reasonably as it was used. McClouid had replaced every other spring with a softer spring. The 1800lb clutch became about 1400 lbs. It has lasted for 25+ years. Easier on my left foot and clutch fork. Question about exploding clutches. I don't know how such a flat speel steel plate explodes. Was it really the flywheen bolts breaking and the flywheel moving. Or did the toothed ring come loose from the flywheel?? When I resurfaced my flywheel the machinist insisted I use new bolts specifcally made for the application. He said 'Never reuse flywheel bolts. Maybe he knew something and I should thank him Dave --- On Fri, 4/16/10, spmdr at juno.com wrote: From: spmdr at juno.com Subject: [Tigers] Exploding Flywheels To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 3:37 PM FYI Several years ago, one of the Cobras at the Willow open track Had the flywheel explode! He said he couldn't have been doing more than 5000 RPM! The good news is he had an iron Ford bellhousing and it contained the mess! The point is, it can happen ANY time! The NEWest original Tiger flywheel is 42 years old! Meal fatigue is cumulative! NEW steel flywheels are out there for a little over $100! www.themustangdepot.com For the cost of surfacing and mag testing, it's a "No Brainer"! DW ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Soaring 3000% Sign up for Free to find out what the next 3000% Stock Winner Is! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc88469a84ce4cc72m07vuc _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From MWood24020 at aol.com Fri Apr 16 21:26:50 2010 From: MWood24020 at aol.com (MWood24020 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 23:26:50 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT Message-ID: <272f8.49ca7f75.38fa847a@aol.com> I'd guess lifter, too. In a message dated 4/16/2010 7:58:54 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rsdslp at juno.com writes: Lifter isn't pumping up On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 15:20:12 -0500 "Pointers" writes: > Listers with engine experience, pls weigh in. Have been following and > benefited tremendously from this list for a decade...now I need you > guys to > come thru in spades, or it'll be a long summer! > > Near the end of a morning outing where I was just warming up the oil > for > changing, running it up to 60 MPH on hard acceleration (not high > revs), > thought I heard something ticking at the stop light. When back home, > sure > enough, there was a tick/knock coming from the passenger bank. Best > I can > describe is not a real tick, but not a solid bottom end knock > either. > Something in-between that, mid-block (if I'm making any sense), > quite audible. > Anyhow, parked it while I sought advice and searched the net. Got > varied info. > Summer ended (Canada). Was going to trailer it to storage (`10 > miles), but > thought I'd fire it up, and low and behold, no noise! None > whatsoever. After > about 5 miles, no prob, so applied full throttle to 60 MPH, and the > exact same > noise was present again. > > Time to park the dog sled team, fetch the car from storage and > tackle the > issue. All suggestions appreciated. The winning recommendation gets > to share > the bill! (My wish is for a simple remedy...engine cleaner oil > additive...that > sort of thing. Anything requiring more time + $ may not get done > soon). > > Engine = 302 with stock internals. > > Gary Pointer > St. Albert, Alberta > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rsdslp at juno.com > > ____________________________________________________________ 3.44% APR - Refinance Now $200,000 Mortgage for $898/Month! No Hidden Fees. Refi & Save w/DPR! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc917c0d43c47469m07duc _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mwood24020 at aol.com From atwittsend at verizon.net Fri Apr 16 22:16:52 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 21:16:52 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT References: <8772C4D637A24A2189153D3E5E3EE3F9@TIGERV8> Message-ID: I vote for a lifter. My Mazda 323, if it sits more than 48 hours gets a lifter tick. It can last for hours..., and eventually goes away. As long as I drive it within 24 hours or so (which I normally do) it never comes back. It has done this for years. Tom From walmenke at bigpond.net.au Fri Apr 16 22:23:09 2010 From: walmenke at bigpond.net.au (Wally Menke) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:23:09 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business In-Reply-To: <000001cadd05$1c1a2190$6501a8c0@Brennan> References: <594511.21197.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000001cadd05$1c1a2190$6501a8c0@Brennan> Message-ID: <001201cadde5$af911290$0eb337b0$@net.au> The boredom will send you to sleep soundly every night! Wally Menke -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stu Brennan Sent: Friday, 16 April 2010 11:35 AM To: 'Jeffrey Nichols'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Risky Business Be safe, Buy a Toyota. Stu __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5035 (20100416) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From RSSmithIQ at cs.com Sat Apr 17 05:46:54 2010 From: RSSmithIQ at cs.com (Randy Smith) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 07:46:54 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag In-Reply-To: <007201caddd6$73e04d60$5ba0e820$@net> References: <007201caddd6$73e04d60$5ba0e820$@net> Message-ID: <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> Brad- Take my word for this one. I had the same problem and replaced everything trying to fix it. Turned out to be the one thing I didn't replace. It's the flex line between the brake line on the car and the line on the rear axle. They look perfect on the outside, but swell shut on the inside and start to act like a one-way valve. Replace it and you'll be back in business. -Randy On 4/16/2010 10:34 PM, Hall Motors wrote: > Rear shoes (especially driver side) stay engaged against drum (i.e. > drag/lock) after engaging the brakes with the brake pedal. Even after > adjusting the shoes off the drum via the square head brake adjuster bolt on > the vacuum plate, engaging brakes with pedal will reintroduce the drag/lock > condition. The brake system (actually the whole car) is original > configuration. The car has sit for several months at a time over the last > two years. I've inspected the shoes (fine) and bled the system. I'm > thinking there may be some crystallized fluid (due to moisture absorption) > in the wheel cylinders, but wanted to know if any of you guys have had the > same problem or have other ideas before I tear into the cylinders. > > > > Thanks, > > Brad Hall > > B382000609LRXFE > -- Randy Smith INNER QUEST, Inc. 34752 Charles Town Pike Purcellville, VA 20132 703-478-1078 540-668-6699 540-668-6253 fax InnerQuestOnline.com RSSmithIQ at cs.com Tiger- B382000189 From hallmotors at cox.net Sat Apr 17 06:27:06 2010 From: hallmotors at cox.net (Hall Motors) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 07:27:06 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag In-Reply-To: <136436.84948.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <007201caddd6$73e04d60$5ba0e820$@net> <136436.84948.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <008001cade29$4b2c2490$e1846db0$@net> Hey Tony - Thanks for the info/experience. The attempted adjustment I reference was done with the brake booster off the car (booster in/out lines are hooked together with tubing/fittings), but I didn't drive it, just spun the wheels and applied the brakes with the car off the ground. The booster is off the car due to the fact that it went out and all the fluid was sucked out of the master cylinder into the manifold (or the booster vacuum chamber) and I had no brakes (no duh). I sent the booster to CA this week for a rebuild. Maybe the booster problem caused the rear brakes to stay engaged, but if so I'm confused by the following 1) why didn't/doesn't the issue show up with the front calipers as well, and 2) why does the issue continue with the back shoes after bleeding and adjustment with the booster off the car. I'm copying the list again with this add'l info. Thanks again, Brad Hall B382000609LRXFE From: Tony Somebody [mailto:achd73 at yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 10:50 PM To: Hall Motors Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag Brad- one thing the brake booster does is not release the brakes after using them or it sucks the brake fluid thru the vaccum hose and into the engine. You can disconnect the brake booster from the vaccum and the prolem will go away- to do it properly they sell a by pass hose. I have a S6 which hasnt been dive much since I bought it and the first thing it did was the booster started holdin the brakes on- You can kill the vaccum, so the brakes release by pumping the brakes with the engine off- so IF I have to stop, I use the e-brake and downshit OR if I have to use the brakes in addition, I kill the engine, pump like hell, restart and go again- I have used them at road speed and killed the engine- put it in neutral and pump the brakes- restart- downshift to proper gear and drive BUT the car hasnt been drivien in a long time- that needs fixed as I paid big bucks for this S5- its tha nice- orginally a Ca. car. Just have to many beams and medical problems - do good just keeping the Tiger going BUT Im going to win the lotto and my $$$ probelms will be over and someone else can fix my toys. LOL Of course if you dot have a booster than this is all moot but thats how my stuck brakes on more than one beam have reacted etc. Cheers, TonytheTiger --- On Fri, 4/16/10, Hall Motors wrote: From: Hall Motors Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 16, 2010, 9:34 PM Rear shoes (especially driver side) stay engaged against drum (i.e. drag/lock) after engaging the brakes with the brake pedal. Even after adjusting the shoes off the drum via the square head brake adjuster bolt on the vacuum plate, engaging brakes with pedal will reintroduce the drag/lock condition. The brake system (actually the whole car) is original configuration. The car has sit for several months at a time over the last two years. I've inspected the shoes (fine) and bled the system. I'm thinking there may be some crystallized fluid (due to moisture absorption) in the wheel cylinders, but wanted to know if any of you guys have had the same problem or have other ideas before I tear into the cylinders. Thanks, Brad Hall B382000609LRXFE _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Apr 17 06:35:06 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 06:35:06 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Advice_req=27d_on_engine_noise_-_URGENT?= Message-ID: <20100417123507.0E4E918764B@autox.team.net> Try s quart of rislone in the engine to free up the lifter. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Thomas Witt" Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 00:16 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT To: I vote for a lifter. My Mazda 323, if it sits more than 48 hours gets a lifter tick. It can last for hours..., and eventually goes away. As long as I drive it within 24 hours or so (which I normally do) it never comes back. It has done this for years. Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From m_dangelo at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 06:56:23 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 08:56:23 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag In-Reply-To: <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> Message-ID: Brad, I think Randy is right that this could be the answer. I had the same symptoms, which only got worse as time passed, on the front calipers on another car. Replacing the rubber hoses cured the problem immediately. Basically, the idea is that fluid can make it through the hose to the caliper or brake cylinder because it's pressured by the master cylinder. But since the pressure is "one way", the fluid needs a clear path to return toward the master cylinder in order to release the brake. With an internally swollen hose, the pressure gets stuck at the brake. I hope that makes sense. Hoses are cheap and the job is not hard unless you have a lot of corrosion to deal with. Cheers. Mauro On 4/17/10 7:46 AM, "Randy Smith" wrote: > Brad- > > Take my word for this one. I had the same problem and replaced > everything trying to fix it. Turned out to be the one thing I didn't > replace. It's the flex line between the brake line on the car and the > line on the rear axle. They look perfect on the outside, but swell shut > on the inside and start to act like a one-way valve. Replace it and > you'll be back in business. > > -Randy > > On 4/16/2010 10:34 PM, Hall Motors wrote: >> Rear shoes (especially driver side) stay engaged against drum (i.e. >> drag/lock) after engaging the brakes with the brake pedal. Even after >> adjusting the shoes off the drum via the square head brake adjuster bolt on >> the vacuum plate, engaging brakes with pedal will reintroduce the drag/lock >> condition. The brake system (actually the whole car) is original >> configuration. The car has sit for several months at a time over the last >> two years. I've inspected the shoes (fine) and bled the system. I'm >> thinking there may be some crystallized fluid (due to moisture absorption) >> in the wheel cylinders, but wanted to know if any of you guys have had the >> same problem or have other ideas before I tear into the cylinders. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Brad Hall >> >> B382000609LRXFE From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 17 07:01:37 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:01:37 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <22A6B43A8485431CBF0EB63E1A7BD04E@ronpc1> Mauro The distance from the pump face to the hub is Tiger specific. See the Shop Manual then check your pump. Please note the numbers for this distance are NOT correct in the Manual, so check your pump. Also check that when the pump is on the engine that the fan belt is straight between all the pulleys. This is another indication that you have the original parts or at least the right distance. Distance in the Manual 260 5.15" 289 5.43" Correct Numbers 4.875" 5.1" The source of the correct numbers is "The Sunbeam Survivor" from TE/AE. I encourage everyone to check the pulley alignment on their Tiger. This tells you whether or not someone has replaced parts and knew what they were doing or if anything else might have been changed. 2nd - you know the water pump hub is in the correct position or not; you can rebuild your water pump or buy a new one and put the hub to the correct distance. See the Shop Manual about measuring the distance. Note; the water pump hub B9ME-8553-A could be a unique Tiger part. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:48 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 Hi all. I have been told that the dimensions of the water pump in the workshop manual are incorrect. Argh. The manual says 5.4 inches or 13.8 centimeters from the mounting surface to the face of the fan hub. So, does anyone know the correct measurement from the fan hub face (where the fan bolts on) to the mounting surface on the later type of water pump on the Mark 2's 289 engine? This information would be very helpful to me. Thanks. Mauro _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2814 - Release Date: 04/16/10 06:31:00 From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 17 07:33:41 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:33:41 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag In-Reply-To: <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> Message-ID: <170769198E4D43F28D9966392473474E@ronpc1> Randy You make a valid point; rubber brake hoses can do this. Been there, experienced that on another car. I have the stainless steel style hoses on my Tiger now. I also had another car that I could not get the rear drum brakes to not drag after repeated attempts at adjusting them. I finally realized the problem when I pulled the drum off and the brake material fell off the backer plate. I suggest you carefully inspect everything. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Smith Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 7:47 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag Brad- Take my word for this one. I had the same problem and replaced everything trying to fix it. Turned out to be the one thing I didn't replace. It's the flex line between the brake line on the car and the line on the rear axle. They look perfect on the outside, but swell shut on the inside and start to act like a one-way valve. Replace it and you'll be back in business. -Randy On 4/16/2010 10:34 PM, Hall Motors wrote: > Rear shoes (especially driver side) stay engaged against drum (i.e. > drag/lock) after engaging the brakes with the brake pedal. Even after > adjusting the shoes off the drum via the square head brake adjuster > bolt on the vacuum plate, engaging brakes with pedal will reintroduce > the drag/lock condition. The brake system (actually the whole car) is > original configuration. The car has sit for several months at a time > over the last two years. I've inspected the shoes (fine) and bled the > system. I'm thinking there may be some crystallized fluid (due to > moisture absorption) in the wheel cylinders, but wanted to know if any > of you guys have had the same problem or have other ideas before I > tear into the cylinders. > > > > Thanks, > > Brad Hall > > B382000609LRXFE > -- Randy Smith INNER QUEST, Inc. 34752 Charles Town Pike Purcellville, VA 20132 703-478-1078 540-668-6699 540-668-6253 fax InnerQuestOnline.com RSSmithIQ at cs.com Tiger- B382000189 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2814 - Release Date: 04/17/10 06:31:00 From Carmods at aol.com Sat Apr 17 07:36:03 2010 From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:36:03 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT Message-ID: <6e4a.79f2440c.38fb1343@aol.com> _gpointer at telusplanet.net_ (mailto:gpointer at telusplanet.net) writes: thought I heard something ticking at the stop light. All suggestions appreciated. The winning recommendation gets to share the bill! Hi Gary, Here are two "simple fix" suggestions. 1. I would vote for a lifter problem, however, since it starts quiet ,then gets noisy that would indicate low oil pressure to the lifter if it only happens at idle. If it's a high mileage engine, maybe it could be fixed with a heavier oil or higher idle speed. 2. I had a similar but opposite problem a few years ago. There was a noise that sounded like a tick or knock coming from the right side of the engine at start up but went away as it warmed up. After a lot of fretting and consternation, I found that it was coming from the exhaust header connection to the tail pipe. The problem went away by simply relocating and tightening a clamp. I hope you will be that lucky. John Logan From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Apr 17 08:25:21 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 08:25:21 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Dimensions_of_Water_pump_for_289?= Message-ID: <20100417142521.D677118765F@autox.team.net> As I recall, the hub is a unit from another Ford product, pressed on backwards. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: " Ron Fraser" Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 09:01 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 To: "'MAURO D'ANGELO'" , Mauro The distance from the pump face to the hub is Tiger specific. See the Shop Manual then check your pump. Please note the numbers for this distance are NOT correct in the Manual, so check your pump. Also check that when the pump is on the engine that the fan belt is straight between all the pulleys. This is another indication that you have the original parts or at least the right distance. Distance in the Manual 260 5.15" 289 5.43" Correct Numbers 4.875" 5.1" The source of the correct numbers is "The Sunbeam Survivor" from TE/AE. I encourage everyone to check the pulley alignment on their Tiger. This tells you whether or not someone has replaced parts and knew what they were doing or if anything else might have been changed. 2nd - you know the water pump hub is in the correct position or not; you can rebuild your water pump or buy a new one and put the hub to the correct distance. See the Shop Manual about measuring the distance. Note; the water pump hub B9ME-8553-A could be a unique Tiger part. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MAURO D'ANGELO Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 6:48 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 Hi all. I have been told that the dimensions of the water pump in the workshop manual are incorrect. Argh. The manual says 5.4 inches or 13.8 centimeters from the mounting surface to the face of the fan hub. So, does anyone know the correct measurement from the fan hub face (where the fan bolts on) to the mounting surface on the later type of water pump on the Mark 2's 289 engine? This information would be very helpful to me. Thanks. Mauro _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2814 - Release Date: 04/16/10 06:31:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From mark44124 at gmail.com Sat Apr 17 08:32:04 2010 From: mark44124 at gmail.com (Mark44124) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 10:32:04 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I remember pulling into the garage once and hearing a very audible ticking. Thinking it was a lifter or loose rocker I pulled off the valve cover and checked all the pushrods. Everything was tight. Started up the engine and noticed the ticking was the same volume and timbre when cold. Turns out that a plug wire had worked loose enough to form a gap between the plug end and the connector. The sound was the arcing of the spark across the gap. A new set of wires cured that easily. Sometimes it is the easy stuff. If you do determine that it is a lifter and not a rocker and the Risoline does not cure it, installing a high volume (NOT high pressure) oil pump can usually cure that. Bugz --------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 18:52:54 -0500 From: "Pointers" Subject: Re: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT To: Cc: Theo Smit Appreciate the quick responses. Answers consolidated: Theo: Chromed steel covers Kirk: Yes, hydraulic lifters Tom: - # miles on the engine unknown. - No, not experienced to tune in the diff between rod & main vs wrist pin knocks. - Believe I had isolated it to either #2 or #3 cylinders, via long screw driver to ear. - Re: additives. The guy who brokered the sale of the car 15 yrs ago, swore by Rislone Engine Treatment and suggested I run it through. I bought a litre at that time. Still sitting in the garage, as it has run great until this. Maybe I'll run it through. From dave at munroe.ca Sat Apr 17 08:36:15 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 11:36:15 -0300 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 In-Reply-To: <22A6B43A8485431CBF0EB63E1A7BD04E@ronpc1> References: <22A6B43A8485431CBF0EB63E1A7BD04E@ronpc1> Message-ID: <065F66F25B7647FD877281EB969AEC3B@DavePC> Ron and all; Correct after-market water pumps for the Tiger, (Rick's at SS notwithstanding) are difficult to source. There are many advertised for 1964-69 289 +++ SBF, but their advertised pump mounting surface to fan mounting dimensions are all over the map. Beyond the importance of correctly aligning the pulleys, the distance from the pump mounting surface to the oversize rad I have fitted is 6". Pump suppliers do not advertise the overall dimension from the pump mounting surface to the end of the pump shaft. Many of the pumps advertised for our engines are actually longer than 6" ! So for sure they won't fit on my car. The only pump I could find that was close to the original pump dimensions was the Stewart Stage 1 #16103 which is an alloy pump w/o a rear cover. It shows the pump mounting surface to fan flange surface at 5.09", which matches with the "Sunbeam Survivor" dimensions. (5.1") The only problem is the shaft is 3/8" longer than stock. I have ordered one of these pumps with the plan of shortening the shaft to the original pump dimensions. My original pump is the one with the dreaded pressed steel impeller. Since I have my engine out now, it seemed a good time to replace it with a more modern, efficient pump. This Stewart pump has a 3/4" ball bearing, and a high flow impeller. Just what the doctor ordered. Nothing is simple with these cars. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Fraser" April 17, 2010 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 Mauro The distance from the pump face to the hub is Tiger specific. See the Shop Manual then check your pump. Please note the numbers for this distance are NOT correct in the Manual, so check your pump. Also check that when the pump is on the engine that the fan belt is straight between all the pulleys. This is another indication that you have the original parts or at least the right distance. Distance in the Manual 260 5.15" 289 5.43" Correct Numbers 4.875" 5.1" The source of the correct numbers is "The Sunbeam Survivor" from TE/AE. I encourage everyone to check the pulley alignment on their Tiger. This tells you whether or not someone has replaced parts and knew what they were doing or if anything else might have been changed. 2nd - you know the water pump hub is in the correct position or not; you can rebuild your water pump or buy a new one and put the hub to the correct distance. See the Shop Manual about measuring the distance. Note; the water pump hub B9ME-8553-A could be a unique Tiger part. Ron Fraser From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 17 09:01:47 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 11:01:47 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 In-Reply-To: <20100417072631.85BB3F5@dm0211.mta.everyone.net> Message-ID: B9ME-8553-A is a 1959 Mercury part number The real question is was it modified for the Tiger; without parts in hand to compare I can't say. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net [mailto:spook01 at comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 10:27 AM To: Ron Fraser; 'MAURO D'ANGELO'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 As I recall, the hub is a unit from another Ford product, pressed on backwards. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone From hallmotors at cox.net Sat Apr 17 09:42:36 2010 From: hallmotors at cox.net (Hall Motors) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 10:42:36 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag In-Reply-To: <170769198E4D43F28D9966392473474E@ronpc1> References: <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> <170769198E4D43F28D9966392473474E@ronpc1> Message-ID: <008501cade44$9aea01d0$d0be0570$@net> Thanks to all; I've had the drums off and inspected the shoes, etc., but hadn't considered the flexible line. All three (2 up front and 1 in back) are the stainless steel style and I don't know when they were installed (I've had the car for two years). Do the stainless style flexible lines have rubber liners; if not, are they still subject to the same constriction problem? Thanks Again, Brad Hall B382000609LRXFE -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fraser Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 8:34 AM To: 'Randy Smith'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag Randy You make a valid point; rubber brake hoses can do this. Been there, experienced that on another car. I have the stainless steel style hoses on my Tiger now. I also had another car that I could not get the rear drum brakes to not drag after repeated attempts at adjusting them. I finally realized the problem when I pulled the drum off and the brake material fell off the backer plate. I suggest you carefully inspect everything. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Smith Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 7:47 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag Brad- Take my word for this one. I had the same problem and replaced everything trying to fix it. Turned out to be the one thing I didn't replace. It's the flex line between the brake line on the car and the line on the rear axle. They look perfect on the outside, but swell shut on the inside and start to act like a one-way valve. Replace it and you'll be back in business. -Randy On 4/16/2010 10:34 PM, Hall Motors wrote: > Rear shoes (especially driver side) stay engaged against drum (i.e. > drag/lock) after engaging the brakes with the brake pedal. Even after > adjusting the shoes off the drum via the square head brake adjuster > bolt on the vacuum plate, engaging brakes with pedal will reintroduce > the drag/lock condition. The brake system (actually the whole car) is > original configuration. The car has sit for several months at a time > over the last two years. I've inspected the shoes (fine) and bled the > system. I'm thinking there may be some crystallized fluid (due to > moisture absorption) in the wheel cylinders, but wanted to know if any > of you guys have had the same problem or have other ideas before I > tear into the cylinders. > > > > Thanks, > > Brad Hall > > B382000609LRXFE > -- Randy Smith INNER QUEST, Inc. 34752 Charles Town Pike Purcellville, VA 20132 703-478-1078 540-668-6699 540-668-6253 fax InnerQuestOnline.com RSSmithIQ at cs.com Tiger- B382000189 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2814 - Release Date: 04/17/10 06:31:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hallmotors at cox.net From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Apr 17 10:02:39 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 10:02:39 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Dimensions_of_Water_pump_for_289?= Message-ID: <20100417160239.C20FC18766A@autox.team.net> Are the dimensions different between a tiger pump for the 260, 289 and 302 engines? Are the open and closed impellor measurements the same? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Munroe" Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 10:36 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 To: , "'MAURO D'ANGELO'" , Ron and all; Correct after-market water pumps for the Tiger, (Rick's at SS notwithstanding) are difficult to source. There are many advertised for 1964-69 289 +++ SBF, but their advertised pump mounting surface to fan mounting dimensions are all over the map. Beyond the importance of correctly aligning the pulleys, the distance from the pump mounting surface to the oversize rad I have fitted is 6". Pump suppliers do not advertise the overall dimension from the pump mounting surface to the end of the pump shaft. Many of the pumps advertised for our engines are actually longer than 6" ! So for sure they won't fit on my car. The only pump I could find that was close to the original pump dimensions was the Stewart Stage 1 #16103 which is an alloy pump w/o a rear cover. It shows the pump mounting surface to fan flange surface at 5.09", which matches with the "Sunbeam Survivor" dimensions. (5.1") The only problem is the shaft is 3/8" longer than stock. I have ordered one of these pumps with the plan of shortening the shaft to the original pump dimensions. My original pump is the one with the dreaded pressed steel impeller. Since I have my engine out now, it seemed a good time to replace it with a more modern, efficient pump. This Stewart pump has a 3/4" ball bearing, and a high flow impeller. Just what the doctor ordered. Nothing is simple with these cars. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Fraser" April 17, 2010 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 Mauro The distance from the pump face to the hub is Tiger specific. See the Shop Manual then check your pump. Please note the numbers for this distance are NOT correct in the Manual, so check your pump. Also check that when the pump is on the engine that the fan belt is straight between all the pulleys. This is another indication that you have the original parts or at least the right distance. Distance in the Manual 260 5.15" 289 5.43" Correct Numbers 4.875" 5.1" The source of the correct numbers is "The Sunbeam Survivor" from TE/AE. I encourage everyone to check the pulley alignment on their Tiger. This tells you whether or not someone has replaced parts and knew what they were doing or if anything else might have been changed. 2nd - you know the water pump hub is in the correct position or not; you can rebuild your water pump or buy a new one and put the hub to the correct distance. See the Shop Manual about measuring the distance. Note; the water pump hub B9ME-8553-A could be a unique Tiger part. Ron Fraser _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 17 10:04:01 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 12:04:01 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag In-Reply-To: <008501cade44$9aea01d0$d0be0570$@net> Message-ID: <19CA547BF4F349DD9FC6A7F7073AC34E@ronpc1> Brad The stainless steel hoses should not have this problem as far as I know. Check to make sure the rear wheel cylinders can float. They are in a slot and are suppose to float back and forth some. I would also bled the lines and make sure there is no contamination in the fluid. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: Hall Motors [mailto:hallmotors at cox.net] Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 11:43 AM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; 'Randy Smith'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag Thanks to all; I've had the drums off and inspected the shoes, etc., but hadn't considered the flexible line. All three (2 up front and 1 in back) are the stainless steel style and I don't know when they were installed (I've had the car for two years). Do the stainless style flexible lines have rubber liners; if not, are they still subject to the same constriction problem? Thanks Again, Brad Hall B382000609LRXFE From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 17 10:13:15 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 12:13:15 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 In-Reply-To: <20100417090349.F6DFB0F8@dm0208.mta.everyone.net> Message-ID: Generally the 260 stock water pump is an aluminum casting and the 289 stock water pump is cast iron. They are not interchangeable and there are various little differences. I believe the 302 water pump is cast iron. The water pump on my 5.0 Mustang is aluminum. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net [mailto:spook01 at comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 12:04 PM To: Dave Munroe; rfraser at bluefrog.com; 'MAURO D'ANGELO'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dimensions of Water pump for 289 Are the dimensions different between a tiger pump for the 260, 289 and 302 engines? Are the open and closed impellor measurements the same? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone From jim at island.net Sat Apr 17 10:37:40 2010 From: jim at island.net (Jim) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:37:40 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag In-Reply-To: <008501cade44$9aea01d0$d0be0570$@net> References: <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> <170769198E4D43F28D9966392473474E@ronpc1> <008501cade44$9aea01d0$d0be0570$@net> Message-ID: Hi Brad I'm pretty sure that SS braided brake lines are Teflon lined... I know mine are. All my other (larger) ones are 'rubber' lined... Jim B382000446 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hall Motors Sent: April 17, 2010 8:43 AM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com; 'Randy Smith'; tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag Thanks to all; I've had the drums off and inspected the shoes, etc., but hadn't considered the flexible line. All three (2 up front and 1 in back) are the stainless steel style and I don't know when they were installed (I've had the car for two years). Do the stainless style flexible lines have rubber liners; if not, are they still subject to the same constriction problem? Thanks Again, Brad Hall B382000609LRXFE From jim at island.net Sat Apr 17 10:58:48 2010 From: jim at island.net (Jim) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 09:58:48 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... In-Reply-To: <008501cade44$9aea01d0$d0be0570$@net> References: <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> <170769198E4D43F28D9966392473474E@ronpc1> <008501cade44$9aea01d0$d0be0570$@net> Message-ID: As just about everything else that can blow up has been discussed. I might as well bring up tires (again) too ! It's getting tougher to find 13", 14" and even some 15" tires, especially the 'wide & short' variety. I hate admit that the 245/50-14's on the back of my Tiger are date coded 1981 and 1982 although they mustn't of seen much UV as they're not showing any cracks . Unfortunately, BFG stopped making them 20+ years ago and even Coker hasn't made them lately although I'm hearing that they are just now putting together a batch of 245's and 265's for the Australian market where they are very much in demand... So... if you want to know how old yours are, this link tells all... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 I've read some scary articles on this subject but can't say as I know anyone that has actually had a problem ... now you guys have got me thinking about my stock flywheel bolted up to the 400hp 5.0L ... but at least it's inside a Lakewood... ;) Jim B382000446 From mikeflbmer at yahoo.com Sat Apr 17 11:47:40 2010 From: mikeflbmer at yahoo.com (mike schreiner) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 10:47:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tire Blow out Message-ID: <417044.2984.qm@web54303.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I once had a right rear tire blow out in my Tiger at 75MPH, passing a semi on I 95 (coming back to florida from Charleston SC meet......Very scary....I threw my cold beer on the floor an weld on....no one hit me and I came to a rest on the shoulder with foot on the brake,both hands on the wheel and stalled in gear....just 22 of my feet from the tree line....most of tire was 50 yards behing in the road....shredded wire from the belt took off paint on the fender lip.....I was shacky for an hour after that, but dug out my spare and went on home...problem is I had discover a nail and plugged that tire and added the liguid sealer...when florida sun heated everything up it blew...I will NEVER plug a tire again! mike From gpointer at telusplanet.net Sat Apr 17 14:26:31 2010 From: gpointer at telusplanet.net (Pointers) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 15:26:31 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT References: <6e4a.79f2440c.38fb1343@aol.com> Message-ID: Update & good news! Brought it out of storage. No engine noise. Not on startup, nor during the 10 mile drive home. So seems something gets out of kilter at higher revs, then settles once the engine is off (and not just for a short period). Best web search matchs: - Lifter pump-up: Occurs in the top 25% of the rev range, creating negative valve clearance so the valve cannot close, which may interfere with the piston. - Sticky lifter: (Various explanations). For lack of a better approach, oil additive is the Rx of the day. My NAPA guy recommended "Kleen-Flo - Kleen Valves and Lifters". I've added that to Castrol GTX, which claims "unique Anti-Sludge formula" and "superior detergency action", ( plus was 30% off). I'll avoid the run-ups to 4500 RPM and log some leisurely miles, then swap out the oil again and see how it goes. Good excuse for the first cruise of the year, on a day with far above average temperature. PS (I received 7 replies from listers in less than a day, and appreciate that input. I'm good for now). Gary. From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Apr 17 14:38:45 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:38:45 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Tire_Blow_out?= Message-ID: <20100417203845.93CE318766C@autox.team.net> Yeah, but did you spill the beer? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "mike schreiner" Date: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 13:47 Subject: [Tigers] Tire Blow out To: I once had a right rear tire blow out in my Tiger at 75MPH, passing a semi on I 95 (coming back to florida from Charleston SC meet......Very scary....I threw my cold beer on the floor an weld on....no one hit me and I came to a rest on the shoulder with foot on the brake,both hands on the wheel and stalled in gear....just 22 of my feet from the tree line....most of tire was 50 yards behing in the road....shredded wire from the belt took off paint on the fender lip.....I was shacky for an hour after that, but dug out my spare and went on home...problem is I had discover a nail and plugged that tire and added the liguid sealer...when florida sun heated everything up it blew...I will NEVER plug a tire again! mike _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From scattt at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 15:32:06 2010 From: scattt at verizon.net (Scattt) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:32:06 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag References: <007201caddd6$73e04d60$5ba0e820$@net> <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> Message-ID: <2064D230B4E941ECBB61C5B51D81DD70@NicksDellPC> I have had the same problem with the flexable lines. While you are at it I would replace all three to save you a lot of future problems. Nick ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Smith" To: Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 7:46 AM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Brake Shoe Drag > Brad- > > Take my word for this one. I had the same problem and replaced > everything trying to fix it. Turned out to be the one thing I didn't > replace. It's the flex line between the brake line on the car and the > line on the rear axle. They look perfect on the outside, but swell shut > on the inside and start to act like a one-way valve. Replace it and > you'll be back in business. > > -Randy > > On 4/16/2010 10:34 PM, Hall Motors wrote: >> Rear shoes (especially driver side) stay engaged against drum (i.e. >> drag/lock) after engaging the brakes with the brake pedal. Even after >> adjusting the shoes off the drum via the square head brake adjuster bolt >> on >> the vacuum plate, engaging brakes with pedal will reintroduce the >> drag/lock >> condition. The brake system (actually the whole car) is original >> configuration. The car has sit for several months at a time over the >> last >> two years. I've inspected the shoes (fine) and bled the system. I'm >> thinking there may be some crystallized fluid (due to moisture >> absorption) >> in the wheel cylinders, but wanted to know if any of you guys have had >> the >> same problem or have other ideas before I tear into the cylinders. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Brad Hall >> >> B382000609LRXFE >> > -- > > Randy Smith > INNER QUEST, Inc. > 34752 Charles Town Pike > Purcellville, VA 20132 > 703-478-1078 > 540-668-6699 > 540-668-6253 fax > > InnerQuestOnline.com > RSSmithIQ at cs.com > Tiger- B382000189 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/scattt at verizon.net From atwittsend at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 15:45:07 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 14:45:07 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Engine gaskets Message-ID: Ever the scavenger that I am, I picked up a complete SB Ford engine gasket set (P/N 95-1176) for $5. The manufacturer is Mc Cord. I can't find anything about them on the internet. The box states they are a Clevite Co., but that leads nowhere. I was wondering if any of the "old timers" here can comment on Mc Cord quality. Side note: Sometimes these "old finds" have an advantage. With my Valliant's 318, an old gasket set will have the gasket fire ring sized for the 318 and not the larger 360 bore. Today the only gaskets you can get for the 318 are a "Uni gasket" sized for the 360 bore. Thanks, Tom From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Sat Apr 17 16:20:29 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 17:20:29 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT In-Reply-To: References: <6e4a.79f2440c.38fb1343@aol.com>, Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D51FF8@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Glad to hear it seems to be OK... For anyone in the south-central Alberta area, I'm planning to go to the Spring Thaw show tomorrow at Deerfoot Mall in Calgary... if you're in the area, swing by! I'll try to be there from about 10 Am to maybe 1 PM or so. Theo ________________________________________ From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pointers [gpointer at telusplanet.net] Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 2:26 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Advice req'd on engine noise - URGENT Update & good news! Brought it out of storage. No engine noise. Not on startup, nor during the 10 mile drive home. So seems something gets out of kilter at higher revs, then settles once the engine is off (and not just for a short period). Best web search matchs: - Lifter pump-up: Occurs in the top 25% of the rev range, creating negative valve clearance so the valve cannot close, which may interfere with the piston. - Sticky lifter: (Various explanations). For lack of a better approach, oil additive is the Rx of the day. My NAPA guy recommended "Kleen-Flo - Kleen Valves and Lifters". I've added that to Castrol GTX, which claims "unique Anti-Sludge formula" and "superior detergency action", ( plus was 30% off). I'll avoid the run-ups to 4500 RPM and log some leisurely miles, then swap out the oil again and see how it goes. Good excuse for the first cruise of the year, on a day with far above average temperature. PS (I received 7 replies from listers in less than a day, and appreciate that input. I'm good for now). Gary. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From rfraser at bluefrog.com Sat Apr 17 16:51:17 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:51:17 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Engine gaskets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <645130966B174170A1620703A2655783@ronpc1> Tom Try McCord Gaskets; I got 59,000 hits. I used a McCord gasket kit when I put my 260 together; P/N OH 6902M2. McCord is one of the leading gasket makers as far as I know. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Witt Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 5:45 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Engine gaskets Ever the scavenger that I am, I picked up a complete SB Ford engine gasket set (P/N 95-1176) for $5. The manufacturer is Mc Cord. I can't find anything about them on the internet. The box states they are a Clevite Co., but that leads nowhere. I was wondering if any of the "old timers" here can comment on Mc Cord quality. Side note: Sometimes these "old finds" have an advantage. With my Valliant's 318, an old gasket set will have the gasket fire ring sized for the 318 and not the larger 360 bore. Today the only gaskets you can get for the 318 are a "Uni gasket" sized for the 360 bore. Thanks, Tom _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2814 - Release Date: 04/17/10 06:31:00 From atwittsend at verizon.net Sat Apr 17 17:14:17 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 16:14:17 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Engine gaskets References: <645130966B174170A1620703A2655783@ronpc1> Message-ID: Ron, Thanks, I didn't use capitalization (mc cord -vs- McCord) and only got 33,000 that were limited in value. I guess I am getting lazy from texting my kids. The 7th hit down appears to be an endorsement for McCord quality. Nice set I got. While complete, it also included three sets of intake gaskets and more waterpump gaskets than I ever hope to need (about 5). Strange, I went to the Mopar Spring Fling in Van Nuys, CA and I got a complete gasket set ($5) and a new oil pump shaft ($1) for a SB Ford. I Guess the Rootes/Chrysler connection was on my side. Also of interest, - Leno was there with the Chrysler Turbine car. Thanks, Tom > Tom > Try McCord Gaskets; I got 59,000 hits. > > I used a McCord gasket kit when I put my 260 together; P/N OH 6902M2. > > McCord is one of the leading gasket makers as far as I know. > > Ron Fraser > > > > Ever the scavenger that I am, I picked up a complete SB Ford engine gasket > set (P/N 95-1176) for $5. The manufacturer is Mc Cord. I can't find > anything about them on the internet. The box states they are a Clevite > Co., > > but that leads nowhere. I was wondering if any of the "old timers" here > can > > comment on Mc Cord quality. > > Side note: Sometimes these "old finds" have an advantage. With my > Valliant's 318, an old gasket set will have the gasket fire ring sized for > the 318 and not the larger 360 bore. Today the only gaskets you can get > for > > the 318 are a "Uni gasket" sized for the 360 bore. > > Thanks, Tom -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tsmit at shaw.ca Sat Apr 17 18:30:06 2010 From: tsmit at shaw.ca (Theo Smit) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:30:06 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... In-Reply-To: References: <4BC99FAE.3060101@cs.com> <170769198E4D43F28D9966392473474E@ronpc1> <008501cade44$9aea01d0$d0be0570$@net> Message-ID: <4D2DB7FD-3787-4205-914C-E075AAA44AEC@shaw.ca> There was a couple driving home from SUNI 3 that had a blowout on the interstate. Major damage to the tiger and the woman spent months in recovery - offhand I don't remember if she made a full recovery at all. I think the list archive would probably be able to provide details. Theo Sent from my iPhone On 2010-04-17, at 10:58 AM, Jim wrote: ... > > I've read some scary articles on this subject but can't say as I know > anyone that has actually had a problem ... now you guys have got me > thinking > about my stock flywheel bolted up to the 400hp 5.0L ... but at least > it's > inside a Lakewood... ;) > > Jim > B382000446 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca From mikeflbmer at yahoo.com Sat Apr 17 19:30:38 2010 From: mikeflbmer at yahoo.com (mike schreiner) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 18:30:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Blow out Message-ID: <857732.5389.qm@web54301.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I saw pictures of that wreck, nothing left of the car ans woman driver severly injured...He had weathered tires , let his girlfreind drive it...when tire blew, she got in the median and turned sideways and iit rolle dseveral times, then hit an oncoming old pick up on a tow dolly...It stuck in my mind when I saw those pics...(a preminition maybe) when it happened to me, what flashed thru my mide was KEEP IT OUT OF THE GRASS!...I was headed for the median, jerked it across 3 lanes, then was headed (it kept wanting to go sideways) for the grass on the outside....jerked it straight with a hard brake and wheel....and it stopped on the shoulder...I was actually shaking...thought I was going to die...but love a tiger and still drive one....(no tire plugs tho)mike From hallmotors at cox.net Sat Apr 17 19:40:40 2010 From: hallmotors at cox.net (Hall Motors) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 20:40:40 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Paint color behind the grille In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009101cade98$27193880$754ba980$@net> On B382000609 the area behind the grill is black forward to the bottom grill piece (slanted side pieces are black as well) and the front of the radiator support is black as well, but may (or may not) have more of a satin/semi-flat finish. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Huff Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 12:46 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Paint color behind the grille Can anyone advise me the proper color of the front side of the radiator core support and the area behind the grille should be on a 65 Mk !A. The entire area was repainted red and I am now wishing to restore it to original. I believe it is probably supposed to be black and if so, how far forward does the black come before it returns to the body color? Thank you in advance.-Brad _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/hallmotors at cox.net From lpaulick at comcast.net Sun Apr 18 20:22:14 2010 From: lpaulick at comcast.net (Larry Paulick) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 22:22:14 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <857732.5389.qm@web54301.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <857732.5389.qm@web54301.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BCBBE56.1040502@comcast.net> Yes, and those were original tires if I remember. Frankly, that is just asking for an accident. Tires over 6 years old, are old tires, regardless of the tread left on the tires. So, $400 or so for a new set of tires vs a real problem. Do you know how old your tires are, that is the production date molded on the tire, not when your purchased it. Larry mike schreiner wrote: > I saw pictures of that wreck, nothing left of the car ans woman driver severly injured...He had weathered tires , let his girlfreind drive it...when tire blew, she got in the median and turned sideways and iit rolle dseveral times, then hit an oncoming old pick up on a tow dolly...It stuck in my mind when I saw those pics...(a preminition maybe) when it happened to me, what flashed thru my mide was KEEP IT OUT OF THE GRASS!...I was headed for the median, jerked it across 3 lanes, then was headed (it kept wanting to go sideways) for the grass on the outside....jerked it straight with a hard brake and wheel....and it stopped on the shoulder...I was actually shaking...thought I was going to die...but love a tiger and still drive one....(no tire plugs tho)mike > _______________________________________________ From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 18 11:40:19 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 10:40:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... In-Reply-To: <4D2DB7FD-3787-4205-914C-E075AAA44AEC@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <558138.57161.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Theo The incident occurred in Southern Missouri The owner boyfriend was in the passenger seat. I don't think they know exactly what happened. The Tiger swerved from the right shoulder and then spun across to the left, rolled several times across the median flipped into the air and landed on top of a restored 1955 Chevy being trailered to a show. Imagine that. The owner was not badly hurt. His girlfriend suffered severe injuries. As you said, she may still be recovering years later. Interestingly, the windshield did not collapse and acted as a roll bar saving everyone's life I have been told that it is more dangerous to have a rear blowout than a front one. Most people don't know to handle it. They say your best tire should go on the back not front. Now for smethin g less dangerous. Changing a plugged fuel filter on a Blazer. I thnik there is 10 gallons in the tank and all I have is my trusty jack. Dave Match anyone? Dave --- On Sun, 4/18/10, Theo Smit wrote: From: Theo Smit Subject: Re: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... To: "Jim" Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 12:30 AM There was a couple driving home from SUNI 3 that had a blowout on the interstate. Major damage to the tiger and the woman spent months in recovery - offhand I don't remember if she made a full recovery at all. I think the list archive would probably be able to provide details. Theo Sent from my iPhone On 2010-04-17, at 10:58 AM, Jim wrote: ... > > I've read some scary articles on this subject but can't say as I know > anyone that has actually had a problem ... now you guys have got me thinking > about my stock flywheel bolted up to the 400hp 5.0L ... but at least it's > inside a Lakewood... ;) > > Jim > B382000446 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 18 12:06:17 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:06:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <857732.5389.qm@web54301.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <404034.17622.qm@web111602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> When my right front lower fulcrum pin broke, I was driving with my iwfe and son on QE2 in Ontario at about 65-70. Suddenly, Bam! The right front dropped and the car swerved right. It took all I could to steer it straight. It took both hands. As soon as I got it straight, it would go back right. I remember mising a semi on the right shoulder Finnaly the Tiger slowed enough that I could take my left arm and pull the hand brake. The right wheel had tilted in and was at a 45 degree angle in. My family and I were very lucky. Though luck or driving skill had only a little to do with it. I too shook when the car stopped. On repair I found rack and pinion had many deep marks where I kept forcing the car left. I can still see that semi. Probably will forever. That's why I have this thing about fulcrum pins. Another example? My son was driving to the Brit Car FEst not 1 mile from my house. He was at a light ready to go up a ramp, when the right lower pin snapped. One of the new 4140 super strong pins. The Tiger took an immedaite right into the drivers door of an Explorer and rolled it over. The car bounced off and went down the on ramp into a lamp post. Hit is dead center, knocked it over. The car, spun around and landed in a ditch. The Tiger was 'totalled' but my son wasn't hurt. I'm just about done fixing my Tiger. This time I'm putting on John Logan's fix. It should be required for all Tiger owners. Dave Dave From: mike schreiner Subject: [Tigers] Blow out To: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 1:30 AM I saw pictures of that wreck, nothing left of the car ans woman driver severly injured...He had weathered tires , let his girlfreind drive it...when tire blew, she got in the median and turned sideways and iit rolle dseveral times, then hit an oncoming old pick up on a tow dolly...It stuck in my mind when I saw those pics...(a preminition maybe) when it happened to me, what flashed thru my mide was KEEP IT OUT OF THE GRASS!...I was headed for the median, jerked it across 3 lanes, then was headed (it kept wanting to go sideways) for the grass on the outside....jerked it straight with a hard brake and wheel....and it stopped on the shoulder...I was actually shaking...thought I was going to die...but love a tiger and still drive one....(no tire plugs tho)mike _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 18 12:10:13 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:10:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <4BCBBE56.1040502@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6008.583.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I agree. But where can you buy decent 13 in tires. I'm looking for 185x70x13. I need 5 for me Pie Mags. I have Firestone after intensive web searches. Any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. Dave --- On Mon, 4/19/10, Larry Paulick wrote: From: Larry Paulick Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: "mike schreiner" Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 2:22 AM Yes, and those were original tires if I remember. Frankly, that is just asking for an accident. Tires over 6 years old, are old tires, regardless of the tread left on the tires. So, $400 or so for a new set of tires vs a real problem. Do you know how old your tires are, that is the production date molded on the tire, not when your purchased it. Larry mike schreiner wrote: > I saw pictures of that wreck, nothing left of the car ans woman driver severly injured...He had weathered tires , let his girlfreind drive it...when tire blew, she got in the median and turned sideways and iit rolle dseveral times, then hit an oncoming old pick up on a tow dolly...It stuck in my mind when I saw those pics...(a preminition maybe) when it happened to me, what flashed thru my mide was KEEP IT OUT OF THE GRASS!...I was headed for the median, jerked it across 3 lanes, then was headed (it kept wanting to go sideways) for the grass on the outside....jerked it straight with a hard brake and wheel....and it stopped on the shoulder...I was actually shaking...thought I was going to die...but love a tiger and still drive one....(no tire plugs tho)mike > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From drmayf at mayfco.com Sun Apr 18 12:24:04 2010 From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:24:04 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... In-Reply-To: <558138.57161.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <558138.57161.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BCB4E44.1060704@mayfco.com> Sadly, we here in Pahrump, NV see many accidents exactly like this. Pahrump is a bedroom community for lots of folk who to and fro from jobs in Las Vegas. The primary reason for an accident, at least in this neck of the woods, like this is having the car wander off the pavement on the right side of the road and the driver over correcting and trying to get the car back on the pavement without slowing down. That generally causes the the right front tire to snag on the pavement edge causing massive left turn oversteer and throwing the car to the left where they almost certainly overturn and roll. We had a few each year due to this. Most are single car roll overs that wind up in the opposite lanes or median. A great many, unfortunately, also do not wear their seat belts and the driver and passenger are ejected and killed. Many roads have no verge or rumble strip on the outer edge with generally just a while line marking the edge. All it takes is for a single moment for the driver to be distracted or a case where the driver removes one hand from the steering wheel. That is ofter enough to initiate an accident like this. Coupled with generally high speeds and you get deadly results. mayf David T Johnson wrote: >Theo > >The incident occurred in Southern Missouri The owner boyfriend >was in the passenger seat. I don't think they know exactly what >happened. The Tiger swerved from the right shoulder and then >spun across to the left, rolled several times across the median >flipped into the air and landed on top of a restored 1955 Chevy >being trailered to a show. Imagine that. > >The owner was not badly hurt. His girlfriend suffered severe >injuries. As you said, she may still be recovering years later. > >Interestingly, the windshield did not collapse and acted as >a roll bar saving everyone's life > >I have been told that it is more dangerous to have a rear blowout >than a front one. Most people don't know to handle it. They >say your best tire should go on the back not front. > >Now for smethin g less dangerous. Changing a plugged fuel >filter on a Blazer. I thnik there is 10 gallons in the tank >and all I have is my trusty jack. > >Dave Match anyone? > > > >Dave >--- On Sun, 4/18/10, Theo Smit wrote: > > >From: Theo Smit >Subject: Re: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... >To: "Jim" >Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" >Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 12:30 AM > > >There was a couple driving home from SUNI 3 that had a blowout on the >interstate. Major damage to the tiger and the woman spent months in recovery - >offhand I don't remember if she made a full recovery at all. >I think the list archive would probably be able to provide details. >Theo > >Sent from my iPhone > >On 2010-04-17, at 10:58 AM, Jim wrote: > >... > > >>I've read some scary articles on this subject but can't say as I know >>anyone that has actually had a problem ... now you guys have got me >> >> >thinking > > >>about my stock flywheel bolted up to the 400hp 5.0L ... but at least it's >>inside a Lakewood... ;) >> >>Jim >>B382000446 >>_______________________________________________ >>Tigers at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca >_______________________________________________ >Tigers at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Tigers at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com From drmayf at mayfco.com Sun Apr 18 12:25:45 2010 From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:25:45 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... In-Reply-To: <558138.57161.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <558138.57161.qm@web111620.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BCB4EA9.7020303@mayfco.com> Sadly, we here in Pahrump, NV see many accidents exactly like this. Pahrump is a bedroom community for lots of folk who to and fro from jobs in Las Vegas. The primary reason for an accident, at least in this neck of the woods, like this is having the car wander off the pavement on the right side of the road and the driver over correcting and trying to get the car back on the pavement without slowing down. That generally causes the the right front tire to snag on the pavement edge causing massive left turn oversteer and throwing the car to the left where they almost certainly overturn and roll. We had a few each year due to this. Most are single car roll overs that wind up in the opposite lanes or median. A great many, unfortunately, also do not wear their seat belts and the driver and passenger are ejected and killed. Many roads have no verge or rumble strip on the outer edge with generally just a while line marking the edge. All it takes is for a single moment for the driver to be distracted or a case where the driver removes one hand from the steering wheel. That is ofter enough to initiate an accident like this. Coupled with generally high speeds and you get deadly results. mayf David T Johnson wrote: >Theo > >The incident occurred in Southern Missouri The owner boyfriend >was in the passenger seat. I don't think they know exactly what >happened. The Tiger swerved from the right shoulder and then >spun across to the left, rolled several times across the median >flipped into the air and landed on top of a restored 1955 Chevy >being trailered to a show. Imagine that. > >The owner was not badly hurt. His girlfriend suffered severe >injuries. As you said, she may still be recovering years later. > >Interestingly, the windshield did not collapse and acted as >a roll bar saving everyone's life > >I have been told that it is more dangerous to have a rear blowout >than a front one. Most people don't know to handle it. They >say your best tire should go on the back not front. > >Now for smethin g less dangerous. Changing a plugged fuel >filter on a Blazer. I thnik there is 10 gallons in the tank >and all I have is my trusty jack. > >Dave Match anyone? > > > >Dave >--- On Sun, 4/18/10, Theo Smit wrote: > > >From: Theo Smit >Subject: Re: [Tigers] ...speaking of scary stuff... >To: "Jim" >Cc: "tigers at autox.team.net" >Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 12:30 AM > > >There was a couple driving home from SUNI 3 that had a blowout on the >interstate. Major damage to the tiger and the woman spent months in recovery - >offhand I don't remember if she made a full recovery at all. >I think the list archive would probably be able to provide details. >Theo > >Sent from my iPhone > >On 2010-04-17, at 10:58 AM, Jim wrote: > >... > > >>I've read some scary articles on this subject but can't say as I know >>anyone that has actually had a problem ... now you guys have got me >> >> >thinking > > >>about my stock flywheel bolted up to the 400hp 5.0L ... but at least it's >>inside a Lakewood... ;) >> >>Jim >>B382000446 >>_______________________________________________ >>Tigers at autox.team.net >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit at shaw.ca >_______________________________________________ >Tigers at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Tigers at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drmayf at mayfco.com From mmichels at socal.rr.com Sun Apr 18 14:10:54 2010 From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:10:54 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. In-Reply-To: <645980585.5632691271194808155.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <645980585.5632691271194808155.JavaMail.root@sz0112a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <007501cadf33$4089a890$c19cf9b0$@rr.com> If you are looking for something more-or-less stock. I had pretty good results with those sold by Victoria British. For something stiffer, many folks like the ones from Dale A. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Re Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 2:40 PM To: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken does anyone know if there are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made does anyone know of a spring shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. Thanks Again George _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels at socal.rr.com From mmichels at socal.rr.com Sun Apr 18 14:12:34 2010 From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:12:34 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. In-Reply-To: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B08107C@weco1.wengco.com> References: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B08107C@weco1.wengco.com> Message-ID: <007601cadf33$7c216550$74642ff0$@rr.com> Same here. But a pair of one inch lowering blocks took care of it. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert J. Wanty Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 4:19 AM To: michael king; rfraser at bluefrog.com Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. I bought a pair from I believe it was Victoria British but they seem over sprung by an inch or two. Bob B382001318 -----Original Message----- From: michael king [mailto:michael.s.king at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 11:13 PM To: rfraser at bluefrog.com Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. I have dale's, he offers 2 versions of uprated spring. Tom Hall modtiger also supplies springs IIRC On 14 April 2010 11:42, Ron Fraser wrote: > George > As long as the main spring is OK; any spring shop can probably help > you. > I believe Dale's Restoration has springs and sometimes CAT has them in > stock, if you're a member. > > Ron Fraser > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of George Re > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:40 PM > To: Tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. > > > Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken > does anyone know if there > are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made > does anyone know of a spring > shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. > > > Thanks Again > George > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2806 - Release Date: 04/13/10 > 06:32:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rjw at wengco.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels at socal.rr.com From slaifman at socal.rr.com Sun Apr 18 14:24:42 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:24:42 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <6008.583.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <6008.583.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BCB6A8A.20701@socal.rr.com> Dave, I purchased a set of Michelin X steel belt radial tires (185-70 R13) at Costco. I believe these are specially made by Michelin for Costco. It is a fine road tire, and grips well. Some experience on wet streets, and none on snow/ice. I am positive that modern designs are better performers, but they do not come in 13" sizes. Here's some nice wheel pics, including mine with the Michelin's. http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-wheel.asp Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com David T Johnson wrote: > I agree. But where can you buy decent 13 in tires. > I'm looking for 185x70x13. I need 5 for me Pie Mags. > I have Firestone after intensive web searches. > > Any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. > > Dave From chris at cthompson.net Sun Apr 18 14:40:58 2010 From: chris at cthompson.net (chris at cthompson.net) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:40:58 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out Message-ID: <842588393-1271623862-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-879235350-@bda503.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> It was a good friend of mine who was the technical expert on the lawsuit the woman brought against the tire company (she lost). He said EVERYONE should know that five years is the max life of a tire.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From dave at munroe.ca Sun Apr 18 15:53:58 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:53:58 -0300 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <4BCB6A8A.20701@socal.rr.com> References: <6008.583.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4BCB6A8A.20701@socal.rr.com> Message-ID: <2DDCF7F0AA2E487488617592D7028FAC@DavePC> Steve: Thanks for the wheel pics. I put 15" Minilites on my Tiger, with Yokohama 60's on the front and 50's on the rear. Zero clearance problems. They look nice, and stick like glue to the road. However, there is a price to pay for the increased performance. They severely stiffen up the ride, particularly over the bumps and potholes we have to live with here in the east. I have Konis on all four corners, and have worked my way back to full soft on the damping adjustment, and the ride is still extremely uncomfortable on long trips over not-so-smooth roads. The large sidewalls on the original 13" wheels provide a much more compliant, "honey-in-the-other-seat-approved" ride. I would advise anyone who plans to put new wheels on their car to consider the use to which it will be put. If actually driving it on long trips with a critical co-pilot is in the plans, choose accordingly. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Laifman" To: "David T Johnson" ; "Tiger's Den" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 5:24 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out > Dave, > > I purchased a set of Michelin X steel belt radial tires (185-70 R13) at > Costco. I believe these are specially made by Michelin for Costco. > > It is a fine road tire, and grips well. Some experience on wet streets, > and none on snow/ice. I am positive that modern designs are better > performers, but they do not come in 13" sizes. > > Here's some nice wheel pics, including mine with the Michelin's. > > http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-wheel.asp > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > > > > David T Johnson wrote: >> I agree. But where can you buy decent 13 in tires. >> I'm looking for 185x70x13. I need 5 for me Pie Mags. >> I have Firestone after intensive web searches. >> >> Any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. >> >> Dave > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Sun Apr 18 16:41:43 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 17:41:43 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <6008.583.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <4BCBBE56.1040502@comcast.net>, <6008.583.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D51FF9@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Hi Dave, My latest issue of Grassroots Motorsports (thanks Tim!) has an ad for Tire Rack where they show the Sumitomo HTR200 in 175/70R-13 and 185/60R-13. They're both a little shorter than your 185/70, but there ya go... They also have a 195/60R-13 which will be close to the 185/70 in diameter. They should still mount up OK on the LAT9 wheels. For wide and short 13 and 14's look at the Ventus Z214... if the car is being driven little enough that the tires are going to age out before they wear out, you might as well get some tires that you can have fun with. Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 18 17:26:16 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 16:26:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. In-Reply-To: <007501cadf33$4089a890$c19cf9b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <588483.15585.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Try your local spring shop. In Chicago its Chicago Spring. They can make springs for any car from any year. They usually make springs for semis and buses but will work on your car. Drive in Drive out service. My Tiger was sagging a bit in the rear. (Parts of me are saqging too) They wound up just re-arching the whole spring pack. They made some new bolts too. The shop guys loved the Tiger. Look traction bars! They're too short and on the wrong side of the axle. The owner said the old straight axle 'Vets ahd the same problem. The fix is simple: make the secondary almost as long as the primary. Has anyone tried this? Dave --- On Sun, 4/18/10, Mike Michels wrote: From: Mike Michels Subject: Re: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. To: "'George Re'" , Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 8:10 PM If you are looking for something more-or-less stock. I had pretty good results with those sold by Victoria British. For something stiffer, many folks like the ones from Dale A. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Re Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 2:40 PM To: Tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Looking for reas springs. Hi group I have started work on my rear springs and found some leafs broken does anyone know if there are new available or do I need to get them made? If they need to be made does anyone know of a spring shop some where around the Dutchess County,NY area. Thanks Again George _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels at socal.rr.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From dave at munroe.ca Sun Apr 18 17:34:55 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:34:55 -0300 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <869359.8030.qm@web33203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <869359.8030.qm@web33203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Heh heh....! Spoken like a man with experience. --- On Sun, 4/18/10, Dave Munroe wrote: From: Dave Munroe Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: "Steve Laifman" , "David T Johnson" , "Tiger's Den" Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 2:53 PM Steve: Thanks for the wheel pics. I put 15" Minilites on my Tiger, with Yokohama 60's on the front and 50's on the rear. Zero clearance problems. They look nice, and stick like glue to the road. However, there is a price to pay for the increased performance. They severely stiffen up the ride, particularly over the bumps and potholes we have to live with here in the east. I have Konis on all four corners, and have worked my way back to full soft on the damping adjustment, and the ride is still extremely uncomfortable on long trips over not-so-smooth roads. The large sidewalls on the original 13" wheels provide a much more compliant, "honey-in-the-other-seat-approved" ride. I would advise anyone who plans to put new wheels on their car to consider the use to which it will be put. If actually driving it on long trips with a critical co-pilot is in the plans, choose accordingly. Dave From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Sun Apr 18 19:13:11 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 20:13:11 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Clutches Message-ID: <8EDAA72963134CE48FCD64FBBAAC124D@jerry> List, Those of you discussing clutches check out Hot Rod Magazine May 2010 there is an article "What's New in Clutches" (pg 88) that should answer most of your questions and help in deciding what will be best for your application. You'll even learn what "Marcel" means. Ha. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 01:27:21 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 01:27:21 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Blow_out?= Message-ID: <20100419072721.D6C1E187676@autox.team.net> Hate to bust your bubble, but you buddy is absolutely incorrect in that assertion. It all depends on how tires are stored and used. That brownish stuff, btw, that you scrub off your tires to keep them nice and black keeps uv from damaging them. If you like, I can have my friend who is a tire engineer for a major manufacturer re post what he said to the mg list a couple of years ago. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: chris at cthompson.net Date: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 15:40 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out To: "Larry Paulick" , , "mike schreiner" Cc: It was a good friend of mine who was the technical expert on the lawsuit the woman brought against the tire company (she lost). He said EVERYONE should know that five years is the max life of a tire.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From achd73 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 06:47:42 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 05:47:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <20100419072721.D6C1E187676@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <967705.88354.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Mon, 4/19/10, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: From: spook01 at comcast.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: chris at cthompson.net, "Larry Paulick" , tigers-bounces at autox.team.net, "mike schreiner" Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 2:27 AM Hate to bust your bubble, but you buddy is absolutely incorrect in that assertion. It all depends on how tires are stored and used. That brownish stuff, btw, that you scrub off your tires to keep them nice and black keeps uv from damaging them. If you like, I can have my friend who is a tire engineer for a major manufacturer re post what he said to the mg list a couple of years ago. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: chris at cthompson.net Date: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 15:40 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out To: "Larry Paulick" , , "mike schreiner" Cc: It was a good friend of mine who was the technical expert on the lawsuit the woman brought against the tire company (she lost). He said EVERYONE should know that five years is the max life of a tire.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From s_ralsten at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 09:48:40 2010 From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:48:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tranmissions made simple Message-ID: <480564.82815.qm@web114106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> a classic http://home.comcast.net/~steveham21/turbo.mpg From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 09:54:29 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 08:54:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <967705.88354.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <794634.19609.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Everyone should do what Anthony Hopkins did in World's Fastest Indian use black shoe polish to cover cracks and make the tire shine. Dave --- On Mon, 4/19/10, Tony Somebody wrote: From: Tony Somebody Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: chris at cthompson.net, "Larry Paulick" , tigers-bounces at autox.team.net, "mike schreiner" , "spook01 at comcast.net" Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 12:47 PM --- On Mon, 4/19/10, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: From: spook01 at comcast.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: chris at cthompson.net, "Larry Paulick" , tigers-bounces at autox.team.net, "mike schreiner" Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 2:27 AM Hate to bust your bubble, but you buddy is absolutely incorrect in that assertion. It all depends on how tires are stored and used. That brownish stuff, btw, that you scrub off your tires to keep them nice and black keeps uv from damaging them. If you like, I can have my friend who is a tire engineer for a major manufacturer re post what he said to the mg list a couple of years ago. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: chris at cthompson.net Date: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 15:40 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out To: "Larry Paulick" , , "mike schreiner" Cc: It was a good friend of mine who was the technical expert on the lawsuit the woman brought against the tire company (she lost). He said EVERYONE should know that five years is the max life of a tire.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 19 10:02:25 2010 From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:02:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Tires for 13 inch wheels Message-ID: <514370.15466.qm@web81501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Try this company: http://www.gt1tire.com/servlet/Categories?category=Car+Tires%3A13+inch+Tires% 3A185%2F70%2F13 Jeff From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Mon Apr 19 10:12:48 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 16:12:48 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Rear bearing replacement (not hub-pull content) In-Reply-To: <480564.82815.qm@web114106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20100419161248.1ZWIB.464535.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Happy Monday all, Just ran through he archives again reference the rear bearing replacement. I have the bearing and seals from SS. I am picking up a hub-pulling tool I had made at lunch. Here are the questions that are still not clear. Once the axle is out (I have a HUGE slid-hammer), how do I get the old bearing off the axle? I plan on using the freezer and boiling water to put the new bearing on. I also plan on using in the same spacers that come off each axle to go right back on with the new bearings. Installing the axle with new bearing, how does one "press" the axle back in? Thanks for any clarity here, I want to do a minor road trip on Saturday but don't what to screw up my car not be able to make it. Duke B382002037 From jmartiniii at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 10:54:13 2010 From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 09:54:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Front Cross Member Repairs Message-ID: <596060.39223.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Throughout all the recent emails regarding 'safety' issues, it has been mentioned that the front cross member should be repaired, updated. What specifically should be done? What is the John Logan's fulcrum pin fix? I have purchased the ModTiger Engineering brackets for the one bolt hole per side to be welded in. Other areas to pay particular attention to? Thanks Joel Martin From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Mon Apr 19 10:57:20 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 11:57:20 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Rear bearing replacement (not hub-pull content) In-Reply-To: <20100419161248.1ZWIB.464535.root@hrndva-web10-z02> References: <480564.82815.qm@web114106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <20100419161248.1ZWIB.464535.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC848@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Hi Duke, http://www.tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/wsmG4.asp The manual says "use a press". What you can also do, if you don't have a bearing press, is to CAREFULLY use an angle grinder to grind about 90% through the bearing inner race. If you go too far and nick the bearing shaft, then that creates a weak spot that may eventually cause the axle to fail (i.e. break in two). When you've gone as far as you dare, use a cold chisel and hammer to strike the groove you've created, in a tangential direction. This will cause the bearing shell to split and then you can easily drive it off. Besides the angle grinder caution, you also have to be very careful with the chisel, since that process may cause pieces of the bearing race to splinter off in random directions and (from my experience) they can go right through a smock and T-shirt, and embed themselves in your skin... face and body protection is a must. I've done this on Toyota rear axles, not Sunbeam ones. To press things back on you'll need appropriately sized drifts. If you have a metal shop nearby, search them for some tubing that will engage the inner race but clear the axle OD, and for some tubing that will engage the outer race. The outer bearing should only be a light press fit in the axle tube, I think. You should expect the axle endfloat to change with the new bearings, so you may want to get some shim stock and cut that into the appropriate shape before you start. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce at kc.rr.com > Sent: April 19, 2010 10:13 AM > To: Tiger email list > Subject: [Tigers] Rear bearing replacement (not hub-pull content) > > Happy Monday all, ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Mon Apr 19 11:09:19 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:09:19 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Rear bearing replacement (not hub-pull content) In-Reply-To: <20100419161248.1ZWIB.464535.root@hrndva-web10-z02> References: <480564.82815.qm@web114106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <20100419161248.1ZWIB.464535.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: Duke, Heating the bearing to put it on is a good idea, but don't do it in water put it in hot oil instead (boiling). Water and bearings DO NOT MIX. Removing the bearing from the axle is done with a bearing separator. If you don't have the tools just take to a shop that does it. It won't be very expensive; they also can put the new one on. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce at kc.rr.com Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 11:13 AM To: Tiger email list Subject: [Tigers] Rear bearing replacement (not hub-pull content) Happy Monday all, Just ran through he archives again reference the rear bearing replacement. I have the bearing and seals from SS. I am picking up a hub-pulling tool I had made at lunch. Here are the questions that are still not clear. Once the axle is out (I have a HUGE slid-hammer), how do I get the old bearing off the axle? I plan on using the freezer and boiling water to put the new bearing on. I also plan on using in the same spacers that come off each axle to go right back on with the new bearings. Installing the axle with new bearing, how does one "press" the axle back in? Thanks for any clarity here, I want to do a minor road trip on Saturday but don't what to screw up my car not be able to make it. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From atwittsend at verizon.net Mon Apr 19 11:10:10 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:10:10 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Rear bearing replacement (not hub-pull content) References: <20100419161248.1ZWIB.464535.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: >>> Once the axle is out (I have a HUGE slid-hammer), how do I get the old >>> bearing off the axle? I plan on using the freezer and boiling water to >>> put the new bearing on.<<< Freeze, heat should sure help. I used a press and a bearing support tool for the on/off of the bearing. >>> I also plan on using in the same spacers that come off each axle to go >>> right back on with the new bearings.<<< That will probably be ok. HOWEVER, I highly recommend you get an end play reading BEFORE you pull the axles. This way you know what is was if anything seems wrong during the reinstallation. A dial indicator and a support base are needed. There are paper gaskets that may/may not survive the removal. These factor in to the play. In the end I had to make my own. I'm not sure where they are available. FYI, I had .004 not the .006-.008 I recall being the play specified. But, lacking any more shims... . >>> Installing the axle with new bearing, how does one "press" the axle back >>> in?<<< The bearing seemingly goes in backwards compared to many other methods. Ideally it will just press in from tightening the plate sequentially. Be careful not to distort anything if it gets tight. That said, I had such a hard time getting my axles out of the rear end (See http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/WittResto101/rt-WittResto101A.asp Page 4) that I honed the bearing cups. >>> Thanks for any clarity here, I want to do a minor road trip on Saturday >>> but don't what to screw up my car not be able to make it.<<< All the best. I'm sure others will have more/better advice. It was 9 years ago I did mine under distress which clouds the process at times. . > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2820 - Release Date: 04/19/10 06:31:00 From v8tracker at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 11:18:20 2010 From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:18:20 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Tranmissions made simple In-Reply-To: <480564.82815.qm@web114106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <480564.82815.qm@web114106.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8984CC441E4A4F5992218438B16C2659@DellD4700> I, too, am sure the government will buy it. After all, they bought GM and Chrysler, didn't they? A. C. Tynes > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ralsten > Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 10:49 AM > To: Tiger email list > Subject: [Tigers] Tranmissions made simple > > a classic > > http://home.comcast.net/~steveham21/turbo.mpg > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com From atwittsend at verizon.net Mon Apr 19 11:28:57 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:28:57 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Rear bearing replacement (not hub-pull content) References: <20100419161248.1ZWIB.464535.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: Duke, >>> Once the axle is out (I have a HUGE slid-hammer), how do I get the old bearing off the axle? I plan on using the freezer and boiling water to put the new bearing on.<<< Freeze, heat should sure help. I used a press and a bearing support tool for the on/off of the bearing. >>> I also plan on using in the same spacers that come off each axle to go right back on with the new bearings.<<< That will probably be ok. HOWEVER, I highly recommend you get an end play reading BEFORE you pull the axles. This way you know what is was if anything seems wrong during the reinstallation. A dial indicator and a support base are needed. There are paper gaskets that may/may not survive the removal. These factor in to the play. In the end I had to make my own. I'm not sure where they are available. FYI, I had .004 not the .006-.008 I recall being the play specified. But, lacking any more shims... . >>> Installing the axle with new bearing, how does one "press" the axle back in?<<< The bearing seemingly goes in backwards compared to many other methods. Ideally it will just press in from tightening the plate sequentially. Be careful not to distort anything if it gets tight. That said, I had such a hard time getting my axles out of the rear end (See http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/WittResto101/rt-WittResto101A.asp Page 4) that I honed the bearing cups. >>> Thanks for any clarity here, I want to do a minor road trip on Saturday but don't what to screw up my car not be able to make it.<<< All the best. I'm sure others will have more/better advice. It was 9 years ago I did mine under distress which clouds the process at times. Tom From BEAU2EVE at aol.com Mon Apr 19 11:36:40 2010 From: BEAU2EVE at aol.com (BEAU2EVE at aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 13:36:40 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 163 Message-ID: <7f0ce.702cef6a.38fdeea8@aol.com> Lifter is not holding it's pressure, it is draining out. Will have to be replaced for the cure Beau From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Mon Apr 19 11:46:18 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:46:18 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Ready now for the hub removal assault. In-Reply-To: <596060.39223.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <596060.39223.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301cadfe8$37473260$a5d59720$@rr.com> http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-2.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-2.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/003-1.jpg The slide hammer WILL NOT be used for hub removal. It will be used to pull the axles once the hubs are loose. I got the slide hammer on Craig slits for practically nothing. It is a complete kit with many attachments. I just need to find the hardware to thread on to the hub studs that I can then thread with bolts through the puller. I will back off the castle nut until it is flush with the axle and then use even torque to pup the hub loose. That's the plan anyway. Duke B382002037 From John.Dillman at PUBLICANS.com Mon Apr 19 11:48:49 2010 From: John.Dillman at PUBLICANS.com (John Dillman) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 12:48:49 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Risky Business Message-ID: The MGTF comment made my wind wander back . . . Dad had a MGTD bought from a friend who worked our (formerly) rich Uncle in some clandestine capacity. He had to leave the country quickly and sold Dad the car. My first memories of an engine fire come from a trip to elementary school in that car. We used some rags to put it out, tightened up a fitting on an SU and I was barely even late. Haven't used the Tiger enough (yet) to have had my life threatened by that, but my '65 Vette seems to have taken an oath to kill me. Between a locked up wheel (bad flex line) and small grease fire with that, brown recluse spider bite from working on it, a messed up foot from brake bleeding and a lost knock off wheel, I could get really suspicious . . . Even so, it is a member of the family . . . Nobody makes it out alive, and seeing the ex in her new Prius reminds me that living well is the best revenge . . . John Dillman From sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net Mon Apr 19 12:02:56 2010 From: sosnaenergyconsulting at cox.net (David Sosna) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 11:02:56 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <20100419072721.D6C1E187676@autox.team.net> References: <20100419072721.D6C1E187676@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4BCC9AD0.5060302@cox.net> Yes, thanks--I'd like to read that. Best Regards David Sosna spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Hate to bust your bubble, but you buddy is absolutely incorrect in that assertion. > It all depends on how tires are stored and used. > That brownish stuff, btw, that you scrub off your tires to keep them nice and black keeps uv from damaging them. > If you like, I can have my friend who is a tire engineer for a major manufacturer re post what he said to the mg list a couple of years ago. > > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: chris at cthompson.net > Date: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 15:40 > Subject: [Tigers] Blow out > To: "Larry Paulick" , , "mike schreiner" > Cc: > > > It was a good friend of mine who was the technical expert on the lawsuit the woman brought against the tire company (she lost). He said EVERYONE should know that five years is the max life of a tire.... > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5041 (20100419) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From achd73 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 12:37:20 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 11:37:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Blow out In-Reply-To: <794634.19609.qm@web111603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <833482.23269.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Dave- that will work BUT only with KIWI shoe polish and Im not sure the older type is avaiable these days as Made in the USA will be important when using Kiwi to pass tire inspection. For anyone who has not seen thet movie I heavily reccomend it. Based on a true story, Hopkins did a heck of job in the movie. IF the real story was as good as his movie is, then he was tough SOB riding that Indian. I would add he could fix anything but the term I would use may get me called bad names. TtT --- On Mon, 4/19/10, David T Johnson wrote: From: David T Johnson Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: chris at cthompson.net, "Larry Paulick" , tigers-bounces at autox.team.net, "mike schreiner" , "spook01 at comcast.net" , "Tony Somebody" Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 10:54 AM Everyone should do what Anthony Hopkins did in World's Fastest Indian use black shoe polish to cover cracks and make the tire shine. Dave --- On Mon, 4/19/10, Tony Somebody wrote: From: Tony Somebody Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: chris at cthompson.net, "Larry Paulick" , tigers-bounces at autox.team.net, "mike schreiner" , "spook01 at comcast.net" Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 12:47 PM --- On Mon, 4/19/10, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: From: spook01 at comcast.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Blow out To: chris at cthompson.net, "Larry Paulick" , tigers-bounces at autox.team.net, "mike schreiner" Cc: Tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 2:27 AM Hate to bust your bubble, but you buddy is absolutely incorrect in that assertion. It all depends on how tires are stored and used. That brownish stuff, btw, that you scrub off your tires to keep them nice and black keeps uv from damaging them. If you like, I can have my friend who is a tire engineer for a major manufacturer re post what he said to the mg list a couple of years ago. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: chris at cthompson.net Date: Sun, Apr 18, 2010 15:40 Subject: [Tigers] Blow out To: "Larry Paulick" , , "mike schreiner" Cc: It was a good friend of mine who was the technical expert on the lawsuit the woman brought against the tire company (she lost). He said EVERYONE should know that five years is the max life of a tire.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Apr 19 14:19:42 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 16:19:42 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Front Cross Member Repairs In-Reply-To: <596060.39223.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joel I think Tom Hall originally wrote up a Tech Tip regarding the front cross member. Basically welding some areas for strength and re-enforcement. I'm not sure if it is online or not; it definitely should be. John Logan's fulcrum fix can be found on Tigers United web site. It's purpose is to only let the A-arm drop a little if the fulcrum pin breaks. http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/LoganFulcrum/pt-LoganFulcrum1.asp Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 12:54 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Front Cross Member Repairs Throughout all the recent emails regarding 'safety' issues, it has been mentioned that the front cross member should be repaired, updated. What specifically should be done? What is the John Logan's fulcrum pin fix? I have purchased the ModTiger Engineering brackets for the one bolt hole per side to be welded in. Other areas to pay particular attention to? Thanks Joel Martin _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2818 - Release Date: 04/19/10 06:31:00 From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Apr 19 14:28:18 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 20:28:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Tigers] tires In-Reply-To: <8984CC441E4A4F5992218438B16C2659@DellD4700> Message-ID: <407730349.13712641271708898878.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hi all, I have written to my tire engineer buddy, asking him to restate useful life of tires, along with some storage tips, etc.B He did so for the MG guysB at my behest about a year ago. As soon as I hear back from him, I will post it. B Energy Management is the hallmark of a professional pilot From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Mon Apr 19 14:50:35 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 15:50:35 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Front Cross Member Repairs In-Reply-To: References: <596060.39223.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409BEC921@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> As John's note mentions, you may have clearance problems if you run an oil pan with kickouts (eg. an Aviaid or Canton or other racing oil pan). I made up a reinforcement arrangement for the rear end of the pin that braces it to the crossmember up and outboard, so that the clearance to the pan is not affected. A good starting point is to first remove the crossmember from the car and strip the (remaining) paint off, especially around the lower fulcrum pin mounts, the upper tower welds, and the rack mounts. If you see any stress cracks in any of these locations, then it might be worth getting the entire crossmember dye checked or Magnafluxed. Alternatively you can buy one of the reinforced crossmembers that periodically show up on eBay (or contact Tom to see if he has any ready to go). Removing the springs can be done without a spring compressor but a good spring compressor isn't very expensive... Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From achd73 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 16:55:02 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 15:55:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Ready now for the hub removal assault. In-Reply-To: <000301cadfe8$37473260$a5d59720$@rr.com> Message-ID: <917011.73267.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Duke- I had slide hammers out my butt- none fit. I had a broken lug bolt to start, so getting it out was a piece of cake- I removed the oppisite corner. 2 pieces of all thread. One end goes in the holes of the axle housing- after the outer coverw/ seal is removed.3 nuts on the all thread and if memory serves I used 1 flat washer to go against the back side of the axle. After the all thread is in place I use 2 wrenches to lock 2 nuts(jam them against each other) and they are by the axle housing- with them jammed you can hold the roll- so when you run the 1st nut off and against the inside of the axle, the all thread cant turn as you are holding THAT roll using the 2 nuts jammed together- then just remove the nut off the end of the all thread- having 2 pieces(one on oppisite corners) it pushes the axle out easier than any puller will- I havent seen your puller but I will bet a cold beer to use it a special foot will have to be made to bolt it to the lug bolts- remember that castle nut- what does it screw onto? Threads right in the middle of a 4.25 circle- doesnt leave room to get the puller on- basically what I did was use the end of the axle housing , 2 pieces of all thread and length doesnt matter as they go thru the lug bolt holes 2 of them- long enough to tighten the nuts behind the axles end. You have to remove the brake lines and the backing plate on both sides as well. I hope youre puller works but I am telling you a much easier way to pull the axles and I own a puller- went to auto zone and rented one with all kinds of feet, then to a mechanic friends to get his snap on set- none fit the Tiger axle BUT one isnt needed- its easier the way I did it and the axle comes right out. Now this was while Im trying to get the car redy to go to SUNI last yeaar. I had had little sleep and had eaten way more pain meds than my Dr. reccomends- so I might have a detail wrong but if you have a foot long piece of 5/16- maybe 3/8 as I used the nuts that hold the axle in, you can easily pull the axles- when you tighten the 4 nuts it pushes the axle in AFTER you get it inside the rearend, so the splines are lined up. Good luck, TonytheTiger Dam keyboard doesnt want to make an a- hope I didnt mipell to many words. From: wsamouce Subject: [Tigers] Ready now for the hub removal assault. To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 12:46 PM http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-2.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-2.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/003-1.jpg The slide hammer WILL NOT be used for hub removal. It will be used to pull the axles once the hubs are loose. I got the slide hammer on Craig slits for practically nothing. It is a complete kit with many attachments. I just need to find the hardware to thread on to the hub studs that I can then thread with bolts through the puller. I will back off the castle nut until it is flush with the axle and then use even torque to pup the hub loose. That's the plan anyway. Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From michael.s.king at gmail.com Mon Apr 19 23:11:18 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:11:18 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] road racing tigers Message-ID: Apart from the HSC 55 Tiger the other Tiger that caught my imagination when i was younger was the images of Jackie Cochraines car on the isle of man classic TT as featured in 1996 C&S magazine.. anyway.. here is some ffotage of it racing in ireland i assume. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--xMccLaKhI&feature=related -- Regards Michael King From Carmods at aol.com Tue Apr 20 07:12:03 2010 From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:12:03 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Fulcrum Fix part # 1 Message-ID: <62825.e29517d.38ff0223@aol.com> jmartiniii at yahoo.com writes: Throughout all the recent emails regarding 'safety' issues, it has been mentioned that the front cross member should be repaired, updated. What specifically should be done? What is the John Logan's fulcrum pin fix? Hi Joel, Attached is an article on my fulcrum fix. I will send it in two parts. If anyone else on the list wants a copy, let me know. John Logan [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/rtf which had a name of The Fulcrum Pin Fix With Pic.Part 1.rtf] From rjw at wengco.com Tue Apr 20 07:49:12 2010 From: rjw at wengco.com (Robert J. Wanty) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:49:12 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Body Height Message-ID: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0810A7@weco1.wengco.com> I put new springs on the car and I think that it is too high, can anyone tell me the front and rear dimensions from the pavement to a point on the body? Thanks Bob B382001318 From atwittsend at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 10:53:56 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 09:53:56 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Body Height References: <9710CD40E7A1FF4AA23488B1167FA34B0810A7@weco1.wengco.com> Message-ID: Bob, At what point did you tightened the suspension up when you replaced your springs? Assuming you have the stock type bushings if you tightened things up with the suspension in full droop, that can account for added height. Because of the twisting nature of the rubber bushings they will resist the forces of gravity to allow the suspension to rest at its appropriate location. Simply loosen (don't let the car drop on you) and then retighten the suspension bearing its weight. If you have more modern, free floating bushings this will not be the case. FYI, I bought CAT springs for my car (2000) and they were way too high. I eventually cut them to get the ride "looking right" with weight simulating a driver, light weight passenger, battery, spare and a half full (I think) tank of gas. While ride height from others can be "in the ball park" remember that different tire sizes, springs replaced by others (higher or lower), or springs not replace (sagging) can all result in different numbers. Sorry to say my car is/has been on four jackstands for some time. Also the current 215-60-13" would likely read high. Regards, Tom From Rollright at aol.com Tue Apr 20 12:50:55 2010 From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:50:55 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Message-ID: Hello, My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression 260 (though recently rebuilt). Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than averagely pleased with what they have? Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong From shutchin at netjets.com Tue Apr 20 13:23:55 2010 From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:23:55 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> Very happy with the Optima. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft Office 860.292.1191 Mobile 843.290.2805 *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. From CoolVT at aol.com Tue Apr 20 13:52:13 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:52:13 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Message-ID: Jim, I live where it never gets really warm and I put my car away for the winter so it never gets either of the extremes. I measure how large of a space I have for a battery and how long the cables are and then get the biggest thing that will fit. For years I automatically bought Sears Die Hards just because I've had good luck with them. Over the past few years when Consumer Reports did tests, two of the best batteries were the ones sold at WalMart (believe it or not) and ones sold at Costco. They are both less than $90 and there are plenty of stores around. Consumer reports tested them in both cold and hot extremes. Apparently the ones for the north have a "N" in the code and a "S" for the lower states. Mark L In a message dated 4/20/2010 3:21:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Rollright at aol.com writes: Hello, My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression 260 (though recently rebuilt). Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than averagely pleased with what they have? Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From m_dangelo at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 13:53:08 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:53:08 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Message-ID: <2001071971.54659.1271793188262.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> I'll be honest with you, I really like the Optima yellow top battery. I've used them in my Porsche cars and think they would be great in a Tiger with a generator because they (the ones with the yellow top) can deep cycle with no ill effects on the batteries capacity to hold a charge. The red top is also great, but can't deep cycle like the yellow top. These batteries are not much more expensive than most normal batteries. Mauro Apr 20, 2010 02:19:50 PM, Rollright at aol.com wrote: Hello, My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression 260 (though recently rebuilt). Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than averagely pleased with what they have? Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From owain.lloyd at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 14:14:27 2010 From: owain.lloyd at gmail.com (Owain Lloyd) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:14:27 +0200 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> References: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> Message-ID: Optima all the way! Streets ahead. i won't repeat all the benefits - you can read about them on their website. its all true from my experience. On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 9:23 PM, Scott Hutchinson wrote: > Very happy with the Optima. > > Scott Hutchinson > Director of Operations > NetJets Large Aircraft > > Office 860.292.1191 > Mobile 843.290.2805 > > *** ******* > This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. > Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), > you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information > contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please > advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/owain.lloyd at gmail.com From Robin02 at mindspring.com Tue Apr 20 14:19:29 2010 From: Robin02 at mindspring.com (Robin Young) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:19:29 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> Message-ID: I too like the Optima. RObin From jd.sencindiver at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 14:45:28 2010 From: jd.sencindiver at gmail.com (jd.sencindiver at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:45:28 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> Message-ID: <001485f897f2686dec0484b128ac@google.com> I just replaced my 8 year old Optima in my Tiger with another Optima (red top). Heartily concur. Keep on Tigering! Jim Sencindiver B382100451/TAC 448 http://www.tigersunited.com/car_show/sencindiver_j/default.asp On Apr 20, 2010 3:23pm, Scott Hutchinson wrote: > Very happy with the Optima. > Scott Hutchinson > Director of Operations > NetJets Large Aircraft > Office 860.292.1191 > Mobile 843.290.2805 From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Tue Apr 20 15:19:54 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:19:54 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've had my Optima for 10 yrs. wouldn't change a thing. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rollright at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 1:51 PM To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Hello, My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression 260 (though recently rebuilt). Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than averagely pleased with what they have? Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From dave at munroe.ca Tue Apr 20 15:20:44 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 21:20:44 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> References: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> Message-ID: <484616614-1271798449-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1582489311-@bda237.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I second the motion on the Optima - can't kill it with a stick. Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network -----Original Message----- From: Scott Hutchinson Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:23:55 To: ; Subject: Re: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Very happy with the Optima. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft Office 860.292.1191 Mobile 843.290.2805 *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca From m_dangelo at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 14:55:45 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (m_dangelo at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:55:45 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 Message-ID: <1324945363.57555.1271796945810.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> OK, so I don't understand if this was a bogus April fools joke, but the cover of the Rootes Review has a story about a 2010 Mark 3 Tiger, which is supposed to be being built by a company based on Long Island. Supposedly, the company bought the rights from Chrysler (for an undisclosed amount of money). The article says the car will have all the appeal of the 1966 Mk1A (my car!), but with all the technology available today, and drive like a Mini Cooper S on steroids. Sounds really cool, but I don't know if this has any foundation in truth. Has anyone else heard of this? I'm curious to know! Thanks. Mauro From slaifman at socal.rr.com Tue Apr 20 15:27:13 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:27:13 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCE1C31.30206@socal.rr.com> Jim, I use an Optima "RedTop" in all my cars. (These are NOT the higher priced, shorter warranty batteries made for Marine application.) First, they are sealed from leakage and corrosion that ensues. The "Red Top" side and top terminal are a bit pricey. retails for $150 +. Then, they last a long time, especially when left on the car,while garaged. http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Optima-Batteries/Product-Line/Optima-RedTop-Starting-12-Volt-Batteries/?autoview=SKU Then there is the "Deltran Battery Tender Plus". It is about $45-$60, and It's worked well for extended "garage time" No "overcharging or heating". http://www.autogeek.net/batterytender.html http://www.batterymart.com/p-del-021-0128.html They say: /"What is a Battery Tender? It's a device that plugs into a standard AC outlet and transfers power in the form of amps to your 12 V battery to keep it operational over long periods of inactivity. Battery Tender battery chargers are essential if you have seasonal vehicles that sit for months without being used. With a Battery Tender, your vehicle's battery will still be as fresh as the day you left it." / This is NOT a "charger" (no matter what the ad might say) but a very compact charge maintainer. If you don't use your car as a "daily driver", this is a needed expenditure. Don't think of the initial cost, alone. Estimate the cost of lead-acid battery, and how often you will be replacing it. Additionally, have you priced the costs of replacing the corroded trunk floor (either a piece or entirely). The source in Canada for repo steel is out of business, and the Alpine doesn't have the correct fittings for the trunk, only under the "battery box" lid. As the Brits say: "Spend the pence so you don't have to spend the pound!" Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Rollright at aol.com wrote: > Hello, > > My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. > > I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression > 260 (though recently rebuilt). > > Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than > averagely pleased with what they have? > > > Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) > > Jim Armstrong From tcprager at hotmail.com Tue Apr 20 15:41:29 2010 From: tcprager at hotmail.com (Thomas Prager) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:41:29 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> <484616614-1271798449-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1582489311-@bda237.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663D7@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> <484616614-1271798449-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1582489311-@bda237.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: I have been very disappointed with my red top Optima. It has only lasted seven years, with the help of a trickle charger. In fact it is still working well. tom 9472154 From Rollright at aol.com Tue Apr 20 16:15:04 2010 From: Rollright at aol.com (Rollright at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:15:04 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Battery final tally Message-ID: <1b1e.5d6b7b9b.38ff8168@aol.com> Friends, The score is about 10 for Optima and 1 for 'other' . The path seems obvious, and thanks to all that responded. Guys, this is like a Consumer Report on Tigers, on demand. You just gotta love this list !!! Thanks for what you do. Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong From Tigerman67 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 20 16:28:22 2010 From: Tigerman67 at hotmail.com (Tiger Man) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:28:22 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <4BCE1C31.30206@socal.rr.com> References: <4BCE1C31.30206@socal.rr.com> Message-ID: I remember an interesting tip I read somewhere along time ago for batteries (cars) that are going to be stored or not used much. In addition to buying a decent battery 'tender' charger that's not suppose to overcharge in the first place, use a outlet timer and only turn the charger on for a short period of time per day. I set mine up this winter to only charge 30 minutes per day, and seems to work great as a second insurance policy to reduce the chance of overcharging. Steve -------------------------------------------------- From: "Steve Laifman" Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 3:27 PM To: Cc: Subject: Re: [Tigers] Battery replacement time > Jim, > > I use an Optima "RedTop" in all my cars. (These are NOT the higher > priced, shorter warranty batteries made for Marine application.) > > First, they are sealed from leakage and corrosion that ensues. The "Red > Top" side and top terminal are a bit pricey. retails for $150 +. Then, > they last a long time, especially when left on the car,while garaged. > > > http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Optima-Batteries/Product-Line/Optima-RedTop-Starting-12-Volt-Batteries/?autoview=SKU > > > Then there is the "Deltran Battery Tender Plus". It is about $45-$60, > and It's worked well for extended "garage time" No "overcharging or > heating". > > http://www.autogeek.net/batterytender.html > > > http://www.batterymart.com/p-del-021-0128.html > > They say: > > /"What is a Battery Tender? It's a device that plugs into a standard AC > outlet and transfers power in the form of amps to your 12 V battery to > keep it operational over long periods of inactivity. Battery Tender > battery chargers are essential if you have seasonal vehicles that sit > for months without being used. With a Battery Tender, your vehicle's > battery will still be as fresh as the day you left it." > / > This is NOT a "charger" (no matter what the ad might say) but a very > compact charge maintainer. If you don't use your car as a "daily > driver", this is a needed expenditure. Don't think of the initial cost, > alone. Estimate the cost of lead-acid battery, and how often you will > be replacing it. Additionally, have you priced the costs of replacing > the corroded trunk floor (either a piece or entirely). The source in > Canada for repo steel is out of business, and the Alpine doesn't have > the correct fittings for the trunk, only under the "battery box" lid. > > As the Brits say: "Spend the pence so you don't have to spend the pound!" > > Steve > > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > > > > Rollright at aol.com wrote: >> Hello, >> >> My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. >> >> I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard >> compression >> 260 (though recently rebuilt). >> >> Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than >> averagely pleased with what they have? >> >> >> Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) >> >> Jim Armstrong > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tigerman67 at hotmail.com From achd73 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 20 16:57:10 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 15:57:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <2001071971.54659.1271793188262.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <803809.85285.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Mauro- a generator and a deep cycle battery have nothing in common as far as a Tiger is concerned. A genertor takes higher rpm before it actually recharges the battery. For example at idle the battery will discharge while with an alternator ir will charge. A deep cycyle battery is used when a low but constant drain will be on the battery- like a trolling motor on a bass boat and too, the deep cycle recharges at a lower charge, so that by the next morning it has recharged and ready to use to run the trolling motor for the day again. I cant quote numbrs but I doubt a deep cycle has as many cranking amps while having more actual amps- one meant to have a slow drain and the other to have high amps, used to start the bass boats engine- often 150 to 200 HP. Hope this helps. TtT --- On Tue, 4/20/10, m_dangelo at verizon.net wrote: From: m_dangelo at verizon.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Battery replacement time To: Rollright at aol.com Cc: tigers at Autox.Team.Net Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 2:53 PM I'll be honest with you, I really like the Optima yellow top battery. I've used them in my Porsche cars and think they would be great in a Tiger with a generator because they (the ones with the yellow top) can deep cycle with no ill effects on the batteries capacity to hold a charge. The red top is also great, but can't deep cycle like the yellow top. These batteries are not much more expensive than most normal batteries. Mauro Apr 20, 2010 02:19:50 PM, Rollright at aol.com wrote: Hello, My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression 260 (though recently rebuilt). Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than averagely pleased with what they have? Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From atwittsend at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 17:06:03 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:06:03 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 References: <1324945363.57555.1271796945810.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <15DE495146D9414087BE6A800F86C1D9@student2> A quick scan of the internet didn't show anything. This type off "New Tiger" information has arisen about 2 or 3 times in the 10 years I've been on the list. That said, it could always be a possibility. Frankly my hope is that a "new" Tiger never comes about. I like the uniqueness of our 3 year run, 45+ year old car. In the long run any reiteration of the Tiger will come..., - and then go. Then our cars will forever be linked to it. Maybe because the new one wasn't good, or maybe because it was better and our old cars couldn't measure up. In either case I see it tarnishing our original Tigers. This is just my opinion, but honestly it is how I feel. I'm sure others will disagree. Tom >>> OK, so I don't understand if this was a bogus April fools joke, but the >>> cover of the Rootes Review has a story about a 2010 Mark 3 Tiger, which >>> is supposed to be being built by a company based on Long Island. >>> Supposedly, the company bought the rights from Chrysler (for an >>> undisclosed amount of money). The article says the car will have all >>> the appeal of the 1966 Mk1A (my car!), but with all the technology >>> available today, and drive like a Mini Cooper S on steroids. Sounds >>> really cool, but I don't know if this has any foundation in truth. Has >>> anyone else heard of this? I'm curious to know! Thanks. Mauro<<< From s_ralsten at yahoo.com Tue Apr 20 17:29:12 2010 From: s_ralsten at yahoo.com (Steve Ralsten) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:29:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 In-Reply-To: <15DE495146D9414087BE6A800F86C1D9@student2> References: <1324945363.57555.1271796945810.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> <15DE495146D9414087BE6A800F86C1D9@student2> Message-ID: <726582.81879.qm@web114119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Agreed, the Tiger was what it was for better or worse. Don't screw with the name again. Whats next a new Mini or Mustang or Bug or Camero ? Steve ________________________________ From: Thomas Witt To: tigers at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, April 20, 2010 4:06:03 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 A quick scan of the internet didn't show anything. This type off "New Tiger" information has arisen about 2 or 3 times in the 10 years I've been on the list. That said, it could always be a possibility. Frankly my hope is that a "new" Tiger never comes about. I like the uniqueness of our 3 year run, 45+ year old car. In the long run any reiteration of the Tiger will come..., - and then go. Then our cars will forever be linked to it. Maybe because the new one wasn't good, or maybe because it was better and our old cars couldn't measure up. In either case I see it tarnishing our original Tigers. This is just my opinion, but honestly it is how I feel. I'm sure others will disagree. Tom >>> OK, so I don't understand if this was a bogus April fools joke, but the cover of the Rootes Review has a story about a 2010 Mark 3 Tiger, which is supposed to be being built by a company based on Long Island. Supposedly, the company bought the rights from Chrysler (for an undisclosed amount of money). The article says the car will have all the appeal of the 1966 Mk1A (my car!), but with all the technology available today, and drive like a Mini Cooper S on steroids. Sounds really cool, but I don't know if this has any foundation in truth. Has anyone else heard of this? I'm curious to know! Thanks. Mauro<<< _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten at yahoo.com From shutchin at netjets.com Tue Apr 20 17:37:11 2010 From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 19:37:11 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663DC@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> I guess I am the poster boy for battery abuser. Bought a yellow top eight years ago. Stuck it in tiger. No battery tender. No trickle charger. Car not driven from october to may. Not started in winter. Driven infrequently in the summer. 260 with 9 something compression and ignition fairly advanced. Car starts everytime. One of these days I should get around to buying one of those tender things. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft Office 860.292.1191 Mobile 843.290.2805 ----- Original Message ----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net To: Rollright at aol.com ; m_dangelo at verizon.net Cc: tigers at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Tue Apr 20 18:57:10 2010 Subject: Re: [Tigers] Battery replacement time Mauro- a generator and a deep cycle battery have nothing in common as far as a Tiger is concerned. A genertor takes higher rpm before it actually recharges the battery. For example at idle the battery will discharge while with an alternator ir will charge. A deep cycyle battery is used when a low but constant drain will be on the battery- like a trolling motor on a bass boat and too, the deep cycle recharges at a lower charge, so that by the next morning it has recharged and ready to use to run the trolling motor for the day again. I cant quote numbrs but I doubt a deep cycle has as many cranking amps while having more actual amps- one meant to have a slow drain and the other to have high amps, used to start the bass boats engine- often 150 to 200 HP. Hope this helps. TtT --- On Tue, 4/20/10, m_dangelo at verizon.net wrote: From: m_dangelo at verizon.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] Battery replacement time To: Rollright at aol.com Cc: tigers at Autox.Team.Net Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 2:53 PM I'll be honest with you, I really like the Optima yellow top battery. I've used them in my Porsche cars and think they would be great in a Tiger with a generator because they (the ones with the yellow top) can deep cycle with no ill effects on the batteries capacity to hold a charge. The red top is also great, but can't deep cycle like the yellow top. These batteries are not much more expensive than most normal batteries. Mauro Apr 20, 2010 02:19:50 PM, Rollright at aol.com wrote: Hello, My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression 260 (though recently rebuilt). Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than averagely pleased with what they have? Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/shutchin at netjets.com *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 20 17:46:08 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:46:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Battery final tally In-Reply-To: <1b1e.5d6b7b9b.38ff8168@aol.com> Message-ID: <310158.50177.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> At Doug Jennings last summer, a gut showed with a Minx ? with a newr Lucas Battery. No vent caps. Upon further examination, the guy said it was a NAPA battery. He peeled off the NAPA stickers and replaced them with LUCAS stickers. Voila A LUCAS battery. Shortly after replacing the battery, guess whose car wouldn'tt start! Lord Lucas is alive! True story. --- On Tue, 4/20/10, Rollright at aol.com wrote: From: Rollright at aol.com Subject: [Tigers] Battery final tally To: tigers at Autox.Team.Net Date: Tuesday, April 20, 2010, 10:15 PM Friends, The score is about 10 for Optima and 1 for 'other' . The path seems obvious, and thanks to all that responded. Guys, this is like a Consumer Report on Tigers, on demand. You just gotta love this list !!! Thanks for what you do. Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From chris at cthompson.net Tue Apr 20 18:03:40 2010 From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:03:40 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 In-Reply-To: <726582.81879.qm@web114119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1324945363.57555.1271796945810.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> <15DE495146D9414087BE6A800F86C1D9@student2> <726582.81879.qm@web114119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BCE40DC.9050100@cthompson.net> APRIL FOOLS! TE/AE has had some great April Fools stories in the past, too. There is a lot of fodder...... Steve Ralsten wrote: > Agreed, the Tiger was what it was for better or worse. Don't screw with the > name again. > Whats next a new Mini or Mustang or Bug or Camero ? > > Steve > ________________________________ From AAAGLASSS at aol.com Tue Apr 20 18:07:31 2010 From: AAAGLASSS at aol.com (AAAGLASSS at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:07:31 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Battery final tally Message-ID: This is a no brainer. But will I loose points at the car show? What color Optima? In a message dated 4/20/2010 3:34:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, Rollright at aol.com writes: Friends, The score is about 10 for Optima and 1 for 'other' . The path seems obvious, and thanks to all that responded. Guys, this is like a Consumer Report on Tigers, on demand. You just gotta love this list !!! Thanks for what you do. Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/aaaglasss at aol.com From m_dangelo at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 18:10:23 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:10:23 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: <4BCE1C31.30206@socal.rr.com> Message-ID: ...these are cheaper at Costco! Mauro On 4/20/10 5:27 PM, "Steve Laifman" wrote: > Jim, > > I use an Optima "RedTop" in all my cars. (These are NOT the higher > priced, shorter warranty batteries made for Marine application.) > > First, they are sealed from leakage and corrosion that ensues. The "Red > Top" side and top terminal are a bit pricey. retails for $150 +. Then, > they last a long time, especially when left on the car,while garaged. > > > http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Optima-Batteries/Product-Line/Optima- > RedTop-Starting-12-Volt-Batteries/?autoview=SKU > > > Then there is the "Deltran Battery Tender Plus". It is about $45-$60, > and It's worked well for extended "garage time" No "overcharging or > heating". > > http://www.autogeek.net/batterytender.html > > > http://www.batterymart.com/p-del-021-0128.html > > They say: > > /"What is a Battery Tender? It's a device that plugs into a standard AC > outlet and transfers power in the form of amps to your 12 V battery to > keep it operational over long periods of inactivity. Battery Tender > battery chargers are essential if you have seasonal vehicles that sit > for months without being used. With a Battery Tender, your vehicle's > battery will still be as fresh as the day you left it." > / > This is NOT a "charger" (no matter what the ad might say) but a very > compact charge maintainer. If you don't use your car as a "daily > driver", this is a needed expenditure. Don't think of the initial cost, > alone. Estimate the cost of lead-acid battery, and how often you will > be replacing it. Additionally, have you priced the costs of replacing > the corroded trunk floor (either a piece or entirely). The source in > Canada for repo steel is out of business, and the Alpine doesn't have > the correct fittings for the trunk, only under the "battery box" lid. > > As the Brits say: "Spend the pence so you don't have to spend the pound!" > > Steve > > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com > > > > Rollright at aol.com wrote: >> Hello, >> >> My battery is getting soggy and needs to be replaced. >> >> I have a Delco Freedom in there now, and a relatively standard compression >> 260 (though recently rebuilt). >> >> Is there any "go to" battery out there these days? Anybody more than >> averagely pleased with what they have? >> >> >> Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) >> >> Jim Armstrong > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From michael.s.king at gmail.com Tue Apr 20 18:26:07 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 10:26:07 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 In-Reply-To: <726582.81879.qm@web114119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1324945363.57555.1271796945810.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> <15DE495146D9414087BE6A800F86C1D9@student2> <726582.81879.qm@web114119.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 21 April 2010 09:29, Steve Ralsten wrote: > Agreed, the Tiger was what it was for better or worse. Don't screw with the > name again. > Whats next a new Mini or Mustang or Bug or Camero ? > > Steve > Actually.. the new mercedes gullwing... not fogetting the early 2000's bmw z8 (507 homage).. -- Regards Michael King From m_dangelo at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 18:38:49 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:38:49 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 In-Reply-To: <4BCE40DC.9050100@cthompson.net> Message-ID: Pretty funny... I just looked at the newsletter more closely. The car's proposed specs should have tipped me off (if I had looked at them it would have been better). For instance, the 'kerb weight' is 71,500 stones (1,001,000 lbs). The BHP is 640 calorie/hour. Now that I look at it, it's too obvious. Toooooooo baaaaaaad. Mauro On 4/20/10 8:03 PM, "Chris Thompson" wrote: > APRIL FOOLS! > > TE/AE has had some great April Fools stories in the past, too. There is > a lot of fodder...... > > Steve Ralsten wrote: >> Agreed, the Tiger was what it was for better or worse. Don't screw with the >> name again. >> Whats next a new Mini or Mustang or Bug or Camero ? >> >> Steve >> ________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/m_dangelo at verizon.net From FHSLOTH13 at aol.com Tue Apr 20 18:39:27 2010 From: FHSLOTH13 at aol.com (FHSLOTH13 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:39:27 EDT Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 Message-ID: <19713.443cf6f0.38ffa33f@aol.com> April Fools from your editorial staff at the Rootes Review. Remember last year's story about Ed Esslinger being a glider pilot in WWII? April Fools again. Fred Baum Richard Fritz With April Fools contributions by John Logan,Sr. In a message dated 4/20/2010 5:51:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, m_dangelo at verizon.net writes: OK, so I don't understand if this was a bogus April fools joke, but the cover of the Rootes Review has a story about a 2010 Mark 3 Tiger, which is supposed to be being built by a company based on Long Island. Supposedly, the company bought the rights from Chrysler (for an undisclosed amount of money). The article says the car will have all the appeal of the 1966 Mk1A (my car!), but with all the technology available today, and drive like a Mini Cooper S on steroids. Sounds really cool, but I don't know if this has any foundation in truth. Has anyone else heard of this? I'm curious to know! Thanks. Mauro _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhsloth13 at aol.com From m_dangelo at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 18:46:37 2010 From: m_dangelo at verizon.net (MAURO D'ANGELO) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:46:37 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 In-Reply-To: <19713.443cf6f0.38ffa33f@aol.com> Message-ID: Ha! And I also notice that BridgeWerks is a company that makes model trains. I was ready to order one! Thanks! Mauro On 4/20/10 8:39 PM, "FHSLOTH13 at aol.com" wrote: > April Fools from your editorial staff at the Rootes Review. Remember last > year's story about Ed Esslinger being a glider pilot in WWII? April Fools > again. > > Fred Baum > Richard Fritz > With April Fools contributions by John Logan,Sr. > > In a message dated 4/20/2010 5:51:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > m_dangelo at verizon.net writes: >> OK, so I don't understand if this was a bogus April fools joke, but the >> cover of the Rootes Review has a story about a 2010 Mark 3 Tiger, which is >> supposed to be being built by a company based on Long Island. Supposedly, >> the company bought the rights from Chrysler (for an undisclosed amount of >> money). The article says the car will have all the appeal of the 1966 Mk1A >> (my car!), but with all the technology available today, and drive like a >> Mini Cooper S on steroids. Sounds really cool, but I don't know if this has >> any foundation in truth. Has anyone else heard of this? I'm curious to >> know! Thanks. Mauro >> _______________________________________________ >> Tigers at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/fhsloth13 at aol.com From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Apr 20 18:47:43 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:47:43 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?2010_Tiger_Mk=2E3?= Message-ID: <20100421004743.3040718764E@autox.team.net> Uhhhh. They are all here! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Steve Ralsten" Date: Tue, Apr 20, 2010 18:29 Subject: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 To: "Thomas Witt" , Agreed, the Tiger was what it was for better or worse. Don't screw with the name again. Whats next a new Mini or Mustang or Bug or Camero ? Steve ________________________________ From: Thomas Witt To: tigers at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, April 20, 2010 4:06:03 PM Subject: Re: [Tigers] 2010 Tiger Mk.3 A quick scan of the internet didn't show anything. This type off "New Tiger" information has arisen about 2 or 3 times in the 10 years I've been on the list. That said, it could always be a possibility. Frankly my hope is that a "new" Tiger never comes about. I like the uniqueness of our 3 year run, 45+ year old car. In the long run any reiteration of the Tiger will come..., - and then go. Then our cars will forever be linked to it. Maybe because the new one wasn't good, or maybe because it was better and our old cars couldn't measure up. In either case I see it tarnishing our original Tigers. This is just my opinion, but honestly it is how I feel. I'm sure others will disagree. Tom >>> OK, so I don't understand if this was a bogus April fools joke, but the cover of the Rootes Review has a story about a 2010 Mark 3 Tiger, which is supposed to be being built by a company based on Long Island. Supposedly, the company bought the rights from Chrysler (for an undisclosed amount of money). The article says the car will have all the appeal of the 1966 Mk1A (my car!), but with all the technology available today, and drive like a Mini Cooper S on steroids. Sounds really cool, but I don't know if this has any foundation in truth. Has anyone else heard of this? I'm curious to know! Thanks. Mauro<<< _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/s_ralsten at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From stubrennan at comcast.net Tue Apr 20 18:54:46 2010 From: stubrennan at comcast.net (Stu Brennan) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 20:54:46 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Battery final tally In-Reply-To: <1b1e.5d6b7b9b.38ff8168@aol.com> Message-ID: <000001cae0ed$3f5d4ab0$6501a8c0@Brennan> OK, lets think about this. I buy whatever Autozone (or whoever) has on the shelf, and get 6, maybe 7+ years out of it. I'm on pretty much the same schedule as Scott, parked from Nov to spring. I usually remember to throw the charger on, all day, on the day of the Daytona 500. So how many years did folks say an Optima lasts? And how much more do they cost? Anybody break it down to dollars per year? Stu From rande at thecia.net Tue Apr 20 19:15:16 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 21:15:16 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] new cat - new Gullwing Message-ID: <4bce51a4.4c3c.0@thecia.net> I think the idea behind the cover story in Rootes Review went like this: Let's put the issue in the mail , say, three weeks late, you know no one ever looks at the date, shoot a couple of pix of a red model Tiger close to the ground, gin up the specs of a 2010, and no one will be the wiser. Speaking of gullwing, I've temporarily taken down the Cobra 289 Mark II poster in my den, and replaced it with one of a SLS AMG. Seriously, there are two great YouTube films, one from MB with Michael Schumacher driving it into a tunnel and up the sides of the tunnel(DO NOT TRY THIS ON LAS VIRGENES RD). The second film is (who else?) Leno borrowing an SLS, bopping down Mulholland, taking a right down Laurel Cyn, taking a right on Sunset, and coming towards Mulholland again via Beverly Glen. As I queried Tom Witt, doesn't this have a day job? He's having entirely too much fun From glowboy at starstream.net Tue Apr 20 19:53:50 2010 From: glowboy at starstream.net (DERRICK SCHMIDT) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:53:50 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Battery final tally Message-ID: <201004201853.AA488046626@mail.starstream.net> When I bought my last Optima for my F-150, the guys at wherever parts store said it wasn't so hot for the occasionally driven. It was PERFECT for my '91 Taurus SHO because I was cleaning the terminals practically monthly and never had to do it again with the Optima. I haven't had one long enough to have to replace one yet. I'm not so good about checking the acid in the battery, so from that stand point they are also good. I like 'em, but like anything else "high tech" they are certainly not necessary. JMO. Derrick >OK, lets think about this. I buy whatever Autozone (or whoever) has on >the shelf, and get 6, maybe 7+ years out of it. I'm on pretty much the >same schedule as Scott, parked from Nov to spring. I usually remember >to throw the charger on, all day, on the day of the Daytona 500. > >So how many years did folks say an Optima lasts? And how much more do >they cost? Anybody break it down to dollars per year? > >Stu ________________________________________________________________ Sent via the WebMail system at mail.starstream.net From twotigers at verizon.net Tue Apr 20 20:26:09 2010 From: twotigers at verizon.net (Kirk Smith) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 19:26:09 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] batteries Message-ID: <000001cae0fa$0142eed0$03c8cc70$@net> I'm pretty sure I hold the record for a conventional battery in a Tiger. Driven on average a couple of times a month, my generator equipped Tiger got 18 years from a Champion battery that was rated 925 CCA. No special attention or topping off. 18 years. Unbelievable! From PhastPhill at aol.com Tue Apr 20 20:38:28 2010 From: PhastPhill at aol.com (PhastPhill at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:38:28 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Blow out Message-ID: <48271.259b6c96.38ffbf24@aol.com> I use Sumitomo 195-60 13 on the front and 205-60-13 on the rear. Modern tire works fine for street use From huffb at southslope.net Tue Apr 20 22:12:23 2010 From: huffb at southslope.net (Brad Huff) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 23:12:23 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] another paint and trim question Message-ID: <4E03C54B3DE344129CECA62B1F1AAD96@brad78b6f70f51> Does the flat trim piece that is on the bottom of the grill opening have any finishing pieces or caps on the ends or does it just fit in between the bottoms of the curved chrome piece? My body man thought that it would look unfinished if it was just pop rivited in the bottom of the opening. Also concerning the interior of the cowel vents at the base of the windshield (outside)--should they be painted the body color or are they supposed to be black? I know that the vent grilles themselves are the body color but what about underneath? Thank you in advance.-Brad From drmayf at mayfco.com Tue Apr 20 23:50:03 2010 From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 22:50:03 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... Message-ID: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> It appears that I have been disabled or kicked off the Tiger list. Why? I do not know. Said the list owner disabled it and was for bounced messages. Which is kinda interesting since I haven't sent any lately and it appears that I have been getting them ok. Oh well, 18 or so years on the list down the drain. good bye drmayf From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 01:28:28 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 17:28:28 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] another paint and trim question In-Reply-To: <4E03C54B3DE344129CECA62B1F1AAD96@brad78b6f70f51> References: <4E03C54B3DE344129CECA62B1F1AAD96@brad78b6f70f51> Message-ID: Inside the cowl vents is body colour (even on the MKIA/II's i think) i dont thin there are finshers on the bottom trim peice. On 21 April 2010 14:12, Brad Huff wrote: > Does the flat trim piece that is on the bottom of the grill opening have > any > finishing pieces or caps on the ends or does it just fit in between the > bottoms of the curved chrome piece? My body man thought that it would look > unfinished if it was just pop rivited in the bottom of the opening. Also > concerning the interior of the cowel vents at the base of the windshield > (outside)--should they be painted the body color or are they supposed to be > black? I know that the vent grilles themselves are the body color but what > about underneath? Thank you in advance.-Brad > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King From walmenke at bigpond.net.au Wed Apr 21 05:34:22 2010 From: walmenke at bigpond.net.au (Wally Menke) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 21:34:22 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Battery final tally In-Reply-To: <1b1e.5d6b7b9b.38ff8168@aol.com> References: <1b1e.5d6b7b9b.38ff8168@aol.com> Message-ID: <001701cae146$9683a290$c38ae7b0$@net.au> Also available downunder is an excellent identical copy of the Optima called a 'Pulse' battery, which I have. A bit cheaper and also excellent after 3 1/2 years. Wally Menke Friends, The score is about 10 for Optima and 1 for 'other' . The path seems obvious, and thanks to all that responded. Guys, this is like a Consumer Report on Tigers, on demand. You just gotta love this list !!! Thanks for what you do. Best regards to all, (except Tod Brown) Jim Armstrong __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5046 (20100421) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From shutchin at netjets.com Wed Apr 21 05:34:44 2010 From: shutchin at netjets.com (Scott Hutchinson) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 07:34:44 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... Message-ID: <8137B53CC678E1428DCF860CE08E33D4089663DF@cmhprdexc03.netjets.com> Is there any chance your e-mail software or the service you use has decided the tiger list e-mails are spam and is bouncing them back? Is the Tiger List in your e-mail address book? Don't think anybody here wants you to go. Scott Hutchinson Director of Operations NetJets Large Aircraft Office 860.292.1191 Mobile 843.290.2805 ----- Original Message ----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net To: tigers at autox.team.net Sent: Wed Apr 21 01:50:03 2010 Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... It appears that I have been disabled or kicked off the Tiger list. Why? I do not know. Said the list owner disabled it and was for bounced messages. Which is kinda interesting since I haven't sent any lately and it appears that I have been getting them ok. Oh well, 18 or so years on the list down the drain. good bye drmayf _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/shutchin at netjets.com *** ******* This message contains information which may be confidential and privileged. Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), you may not use, copy or disclose to anyone the message or any information contained in the message. If you have received the message in error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail and delete the message. From rfraser at bluefrog.com Wed Apr 21 06:51:14 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 08:51:14 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] another paint and trim question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <61615E57B48E4854817FE75AF61EE879@ronpc1> Underneath the cowl vents in front of the windshield; it is body color. The trim piece just sits in the opening; no finishers at the ends. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael king Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 3:28 AM To: Brad Huff Cc: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] another paint and trim question Inside the cowl vents is body colour (even on the MKIA/II's i think) i dont thin there are finshers on the bottom trim peice. On 21 April 2010 14:12, Brad Huff wrote: > Does the flat trim piece that is on the bottom of the grill opening > have any finishing pieces or caps on the ends or does it just fit in > between the bottoms of the curved chrome piece? My body man thought > that it would look unfinished if it was just pop rivited in the bottom > of the opening. Also concerning the interior of the cowel vents at the > base of the windshield (outside)--should they be painted the body > color or are they supposed to be black? I know that the vent grilles > themselves are the body color but what about underneath? Thank you in > advance.-Brad _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2822 - Release Date: 04/20/10 06:31:00 From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Wed Apr 21 07:57:18 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 08:57:18 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... In-Reply-To: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> References: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D92B15@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Hi Mayf, Same thing happened to me a few years back... I talked with Mark Bradakis at the time and it turned out to be some temporary routing glitch. Nothing I could do about it, not much he can do about it either. With the amount of mail his servers send out, if his servers didn't automatically cull addresses that bounced, team.net would grind to a halt pretty quickly. I, for one, would be sorry to see you go. Just reading the Bonneville results isn't the same without hearing about all the struggles behind the scenes. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of drmayf > Sent: April 20, 2010 11:50 PM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... > > It appears that I have been disabled or kicked off the Tiger list. Why? > I do not know. Said the list owner disabled it and was for bounced > messages. Which is kinda interesting since I haven't sent any lately ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Wed Apr 21 08:00:52 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:00:52 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] another paint and trim question In-Reply-To: <61615E57B48E4854817FE75AF61EE879@ronpc1> References: <61615E57B48E4854817FE75AF61EE879@ronpc1> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D92B17@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> The flat piece isn't pop-riveted... there are some screws with rectangular heads that slide in the trim piece from behind and nuts underneath the valence that hold it down. Theo > > Does the flat trim piece that is on the bottom of the grill opening > > have any finishing pieces or caps on the ends or does it just fit in > > between the bottoms of the curved chrome piece? My body man thought > > that it would look unfinished if it was just pop rivited in the > bottom > > of the opening. Also concerning the interior of the cowel vents at ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Wed Apr 21 08:48:48 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:48:48 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] FW: another paint and trim question Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D92B37@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> I've been corrected on the method of attachment of the lower trim strip. More special rivets! Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: Peter Stanisavljevich [mailto:pete_stanisavljevich at valpak.com] > Sent: April 21, 2010 8:42 AM > To: Smit, Theo > Subject: RE: [Tigers] another paint and trim question > > Theo, > > That actually is not true. The eyebrow trim does use that method, but > the bottom finished uses a larger version of the side trim rivets. The > trim then snaps over the head of the rivet. > > ps > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Smit, Theo > Sent: 2010/04/21 10:01 > To: 'Brad Huff' > Cc: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] another paint and trim question > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 21 10:14:12 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 09:14:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] another paint and trim question In-Reply-To: <4E03C54B3DE344129CECA62B1F1AAD96@brad78b6f70f51> Message-ID: <825384.99927.qm@web111610.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Brad two tips (1) the cowl grills: There is an old tech tip about putting fibreglass and aluminum screening under the grill plates. Keeps the maple tree seeds and other objects from getting into the blower fan. The constant buzz from a seed caught was driving me battier. Barely noticable. The area under the grill was body color in my car. I used fiberglass screen scraps, cut to fit, attached by sticking through the hold down pegs on the grill. (2) Lower grill finisher: It fits tight against the chrome grill surround. Go to any parts store and look for GM side trim clips. The have a screw with two metal springs attached. Snip off the springs and it slides nicely into the finisher. Because the are not round, they self hold against the slides of the finisher when to tighten or loose them. Use plastic or nylon nuts. Remember the tin worm. The original big head pop riivets are getting harder to find and aren't cheap. Dave --- On Wed, 4/21/10, Brad Huff wrote: From: Brad Huff Subject: [Tigers] another paint and trim question To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, April 21, 2010, 4:12 AM Does the flat trim piece that is on the bottom of the grill opening have any finishing pieces or caps on the ends or does it just fit in between the bottoms of the curved chrome piece? My body man thought that it would look unfinished if it was just pop rivited in the bottom of the opening. Also concerning the interior of the cowel vents at the base of the windshield (outside)--should they be painted the body color or are they supposed to be black? I know that the vent grilles themselves are the body color but what about underneath? Thank you in advance.-Brad _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From v8tracker at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 10:58:47 2010 From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 11:58:47 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... In-Reply-To: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> References: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> Message-ID: <56AAF563C72E441B85D06E4A76DEC852@DellD4700> You can't leave - how will I get my vicarious adrenaline rush when you hit 200 mph? A. C. Tynes > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of drmayf > Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 12:50 AM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... > > It appears that I have been disabled or kicked off the Tiger > list. Why? > I do not know. Said the list owner disabled it and was for > bounced messages. Which is kinda interesting since I haven't > sent any lately and it appears that I have been getting them > ok. Oh well, 18 or so years on the list down the drain. > > good bye > > drmayf > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com From rootes1 at earthlink.net Wed Apr 21 12:07:59 2010 From: rootes1 at earthlink.net (Norman C. Miller) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 08:07:59 -1000 Subject: [Tigers] registry input - B382002488 LRXFE In-Reply-To: <1272.73db9527.390015ef@aol.com> References: <1272.73db9527.390015ef@aol.com> Message-ID: Geoffrey, Sorry, but you're mistaken. The Registry does have an entry for your car dated 4/09. However, as is explained in the text, you won't find it listed with the authenticated Tigers until it has been inspected and assigned a TAC number. If you follow this link, I'm sure you will see it in the chronicle of '66 Tigers. http://classictiger.com/mudge/web-pg-work/reg_page_1.htm Norm At 10:48 PM 4/20/2010, you wrote: >norm, >on 4/25/2009 I sent you information on my tiger MK 1A ... > 1966 > Jal 662504 > vin B382002488LRXFE > Engine 6691 B19KC >Checking the international tiger registry I noticed my car was not >included. Please let me know why. > > Geoffrey Prendergast > >PS car was bought in Hawaii by Frank Prendergast From crbernardino at mac.com Wed Apr 21 12:24:41 2010 From: crbernardino at mac.com (Rob Bernardino) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:24:41 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] xkcd: Circuit Diagram Message-ID: <8D36DD72-84AA-4890-88D0-16F2F2FE4279@mac.com> Saw this link as a lucas electrics diagram. Enjoy. http://xkcd.com/ Rob in CT 1966 Mk1A Tiger B382000262 LRXFE JAL660245 Color Code 39: Carnival Red From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Wed Apr 21 13:32:07 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 14:32:07 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger (not mine) at Spring Thaw in Calgary Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D92C6A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Hi all, I just noticed this pic up on FLickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/sherlock77/4537042114/in/photostream/ He probably didnt photograph my Tiger (or at least, didnt post it) because I came in looking like a salt lick. I got caught in some light rain and on soaked pavement on the way in and it left way more of a mess than I was going to try to rectify in the parking lot it took about 45 minutes at home afterwards, to get all the dust and salt off the car. Anyway, does anyone know whose this is? I didnt notice it on my walkabouts during the event. Theo ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From rande at thecia.net Wed Apr 21 13:45:56 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:45:56 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rob's diagram Message-ID: <4bcf55f4.38e2.0@thecia.net> 'Saw this link as a lucas electrics diagram. Enjoy. http://xkcd.com/ Rob in CT' Is this one part physician humor, nine parts Rootes field service update? From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Wed Apr 21 14:25:06 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:25:06 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Rob's diagram In-Reply-To: <4bcf55f4.38e2.0@thecia.net> References: <4bcf55f4.38e2.0@thecia.net> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D92CBE@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> It has the magic smoke required in a Lucas electrical system, but you know it's not genuine Lucas unless it has two (and only two) fuses. Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rande > Sent: April 21, 2010 1:46 PM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Rob's diagram > > 'Saw this link as a lucas electrics diagram. > Enjoy. > > http://xkcd.com/ > > > > Rob in CT' > > Is this one part physician humor, nine parts Rootes field service > update? > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/theo.smit at dynastream.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From v8tracker at gmail.com Wed Apr 21 14:55:05 2010 From: v8tracker at gmail.com (A. C. Tynes) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:55:05 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] xkcd: Circuit Diagram In-Reply-To: <8D36DD72-84AA-4890-88D0-16F2F2FE4279@mac.com> References: <8D36DD72-84AA-4890-88D0-16F2F2FE4279@mac.com> Message-ID: <58F9DF2517B2479FB4DB06C9EDD93998@DellD4700> I thought at first it was just a joke - then I saw the container of magic smoke and knew it was for real. A. C. Tynes > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob Bernardino > Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 1:25 PM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] xkcd: Circuit Diagram > > Saw this link as a lucas electrics diagram. > Enjoy. > > http://xkcd.com/ > > > > Rob in CT > 1966 Mk1A Tiger > B382000262 LRXFE > JAL660245 > Color Code 39: Carnival Red > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/v8tracker at gmail.com From dave at munroe.ca Wed Apr 21 15:06:30 2010 From: dave at munroe.ca (Dave Munroe) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 18:06:30 -0300 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger (not mine) at Spring Thaw in Calgary In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D92C6A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> References: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B068409D92C6A@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: Don't know the car but its obviously a "real" one. It has the proof under the overflow tube from the rad tank...... heh heh...... Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Smit, Theo" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 4:32 PM Subject: [Tigers] Tiger (not mine) at Spring Thaw in Calgary > Hi all, > I just noticed this pic up on FLickr > http://www.flickr.com/photos/sherlock77/4537042114/in/photostream/ > > He probably didnt photograph my Tiger (or at least, didnt post it) > because I > came in looking like a salt lick. I got caught in some light rain and on > soaked pavement on the way in and it left way more of a mess than I was > going > to try to rectify in the parking lot it took about 45 minutes at home > afterwards, to get all the dust and salt off the car. > > Anyway, does anyone know whose this is? I didnt notice it on my > walkabouts > during the event. > > Theo > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > --- > This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the > sole > use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, > please > be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail > or > any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, > please contact the sender and delete all copies. > > Thank you for your cooperation. > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/dave at munroe.ca From slaifman at socal.rr.com Wed Apr 21 16:03:53 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:03:53 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Battery replacement time In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCF7649.9060906@socal.rr.com> Mauro, I believe you are correct. However there are "Googled" links on the net that claim these batteries are: 1. Those that didn't meet normal Q.C. inspection. 2. Are not the same design as other dealers. These are remarks that are not based on any evidence. Costco (and other mass merchandisers) quantity purchases often use their own part number to make comparison difficult. Other than special part numbers, and maybe the lowest featured model of the manufacturer's line, Costco gives you a no-hassle return if you are dissatisfied. The manufacturer stands behind the product warranty. If you want a more deluxe model of anything (cost not being an object) there are plenty of retailers wanting you. Have yet to hear that this product is not as represented. However, a search of their on-line catalog does not list them, and Google search for comments reveals 2003 as the latest comment. I believe these are stocked by store option. Neither do they list "BatteryTender", or "Battery Tender" on their on-line catalog. Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com */MAURO D'ANGELO wrote:/* > */...these are cheaper at Costco! Mauro/* > > <===== snip =====> From slaifman at socal.rr.com Wed Apr 21 16:33:45 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:33:45 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... In-Reply-To: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> References: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> Message-ID: <4BCF7D49.3020103@socal.rr.com> Mayf, Now that doesn't sound like the Dr. Mayfield I remember. At Vandenberg AFB he would get what he needed, regardless of the resistance from the bureaucracy of others. Nor, the one that says: "Why can't I get it to go even FASTER. Why can't I just turbocharge a supercharger?" He was the one who is very personable, knowledgeable. So, a clerical error got in the way. This is not the first time this has happened, but an email, or catch this page: http://www.team.net/tn-mail.html or, http://www.team.net/www/report.html or, you could just re-subscribe with the same e-mail address - since they don't think you did????? Go get 'em, tiger! XOXOXO Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com drmayf wrote: > It appears that I have been disabled or kicked off the Tiger list. > Why? I do not know. Said the list owner disabled it and was for > bounced messages. Which is kinda interesting since I haven't sent any > lately and it appears that I have been getting them ok. Oh well, 18 or > so years on the list down the drain. > good bye > > drmayf > _______________________________________________ From drmayf at mayfco.com Wed Apr 21 16:59:06 2010 From: drmayf at mayfco.com (drmayf) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 15:59:06 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Disabled Membership... In-Reply-To: <4BCF7D49.3020103@socal.rr.com> References: <4BCE920B.8010506@mayfco.com> <4BCF7D49.3020103@socal.rr.com> Message-ID: <4BCF833A.1090804@mayfco.com> It would appear that this has been fixed sans effort on my part..except for aggravation with respect to the list owner and the server owner. And a query to my ISp. Incidentally none have replied, lol... Yes, I do end arounds quite frequently. I did on this one also. Speaking of going faster.... Some will remember that I did fabricate a hardware in the loop simulator. I used that simulation to run a number of scenarios to determine if the electronics were the culprit in the 5500 rpm limiting. I can happily report that the answer to that is no. I ran last yeras tune to 8000 rpm with hesitation or glitch from the electronics or harness subsystems. I did determine that the default for the mass air flow system should it fail is gonna be fun! NOT!. It defaults to less than half the air flow and that wont be good as it will be geting way more than that. That table has been maxed out so I am keeping my finger crossed. Not being an electronics failure means that it is mechanical in some form. I believe it/was the boost control system. Way back when, I used twin turbos and that system had two waste gates. The exhaust plumbing was not cross connected at that time. Now I have one large turbo and still two waste gates with cross connection. One controller has a smaller spring internally. So for this year I have added a second controller and both waste gates are controlled separately. One is set to 15 psig and the other to 18. It is go or blow time. I also added a 13 gallon ice/water intercooler system and a new blow through mass air meter. And slowed the steering down by a factor of two. Hopefully that wont bite me in the posterior. And this year we are only going to World Of Speed in September. The August meet is a zoo and hotel prices are very high. Hotel alone last year cost me 1300 bucks! I must have spent 4000 bucks last year on that one meet alone. We are headed to a chassis dyno somewhere in May or June. Hopefully I do not kill the motor then or there will a long pause before next meet... Oh, on turbocharging a supercharger.. considered it...no room, lol..... mayf Steve Laifman wrote: > Mayf, > > Now that doesn't sound like the Dr. Mayfield I remember. At > Vandenberg AFB he would get what he needed, regardless of the > resistance from the bureaucracy of others. > > Nor, the one that says: "Why can't I get it to go even FASTER. Why > can't I just turbocharge a supercharger?" He was the one who is very > personable, knowledgeable. > > So, a clerical error got in the way. This is not the first time this > has happened, but an email, or catch this page: > > http://www.team.net/tn-mail.html > > > or, > > http://www.team.net/www/report.html > > > or, you could just re-subscribe with the same e-mail address - since > they don't think you did????? > > Go get 'em, tiger! > > XOXOXO > > Steve > > Steve Laifman > > Editor > > http://TigersUnited.com From rande at thecia.net Thu Apr 22 20:33:27 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 22:33:27 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Book of... Message-ID: <4bd106f7.3b9.0@thecia.net> For those looking for a possibly cheaper copy of Book of Norman, there's a rather ratty one on eBay US that you may want to follow bidding. No, I'm not selling it and I don't know who the seller is but let's hope it goes to a good home and at a more reasonable price. From bobdixon at frii.com Thu Apr 22 21:35:32 2010 From: bobdixon at frii.com (Bob Dixon) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:35:32 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Tiger for sale on craigslist References: <4bd106f7.3b9.0@thecia.net> Message-ID: <3DC7340C8E474103AC5252AC19E624DA@BobsDell> Not mine but saw this on Bring A Trailer: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/1694468690.html -Bob From alpdavegre at msn.com Thu Apr 22 22:18:37 2010 From: alpdavegre at msn.com (DAVID GREEN) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 22:18:37 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] LAT 9 Center Caps Message-ID: Hello all, I have 4 LAT 9 Pie Cut Mags that I need 4 center caps for. Any avalible? Dave Green 2 Mk1 Tigers Bunch of Alpines From achd73 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 22 22:53:43 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 21:53:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] LAT 9 Center Caps In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <266846.7234.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I need 4 as well IF someone knows where there are 8- David ask first so I would expct him to receive first approval if someone kept some back when they where available. TtT --- On Thu, 4/22/10, DAVID GREEN wrote: From: DAVID GREEN Subject: [Tigers] LAT 9 Center Caps To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010, 11:18 PM Hello all, I have 4 LAT 9 Pie Cut Mags that I need 4 center caps for. Any avalible? Dave Green 2 Mk1 Tigers Bunch of Alpines _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 24 23:13:58 2010 From: amberlychamberlain at sbcglobal.net (Amberly Chamberlain) Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 22:13:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] No emails prompts email Message-ID: <500357.39536.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just wanting to see if others have been taken off list. No emails for over a week. cheers frank From cmccann at lwpb.com Sun Apr 25 02:48:56 2010 From: cmccann at lwpb.com (Cullen McCann) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 03:48:56 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] No emails prompts email In-Reply-To: <500357.39536.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <500357.39536.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Frank, I'm still here, and there had been quite a bit of duscussion the last week... I think you aren't getting all the messages. Cullen > Just wanting to see if others have been taken off list. No emails > for over a > week. > > cheers > > frank > _______________________________________________ From achd73 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 25 05:13:01 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 04:13:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] No emails prompts email In-Reply-To: <500357.39536.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <703353.27544.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Frank- U might want to send an email to one of the addresses at the bottom of the page and let the guy know. Others have had some problems but Ive received lots of mail this past week but the weekends are usually dead. Check those addresses and maybe someone can tell ya which one you should send a message to.TtT --- On Sun, 4/25/10, Amberly Chamberlain wrote: From: Amberly Chamberlain Subject: [Tigers] No emails prompts email To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, April 25, 2010, 12:13 AM Just wanting to see if others have been taken off list. No emails for over a week. cheers frank _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/achd73 at yahoo.com From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Sun Apr 25 09:36:09 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 10:36:09 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Lockheed Booster installed In-Reply-To: <266846.7234.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <266846.7234.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000601cae48d$079e3190$16da94b0$@rr.com> Morning List, If you recall my adventures of the Girling boosters that include hydro locking my engine with brake fluid with the ensuing brake fluid shower of my car, you will know that I soon after bought a Lockheed booster from SS. I installed it yesterday. I tried the accepted method of the can towards the firewall. I fabbed up a bracket with cardboard and soon figured out that my LAT hood would not close with it in that position. The pictures below show how I skinned the cat. The two clamps I used are aircraft grade and were used to secure wires or fuel lines on a UH-1. I have had them for years and knew that someday I would use them. I have two more I anyone is interested. The brakes work great BTW, the pedal moves smoothly and with linear resistant with no "steps". http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-3.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-3.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/003-2.jpg Duke B382002037 From mmichels at socal.rr.com Sun Apr 25 14:45:06 2010 From: mmichels at socal.rr.com (Mike Michels) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 13:45:06 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Lockheed Booster installed In-Reply-To: <000601cae48d$079e3190$16da94b0$@rr.com> References: <266846.7234.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000601cae48d$079e3190$16da94b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <000601cae4b8$30df81f0$929e85d0$@rr.com> Duke, how would you compare the amount of assist for the Lockheed unit vs. Girling. If I'm not mistaken, the Girling is supposed to be 3:1 and various Lockheed units are either approx. 1.9:1 or 2.2:1. -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wsamouce Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:36 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Lockheed Booster installed Morning List, If you recall my adventures of the Girling boosters that include hydro locking my engine with brake fluid with the ensuing brake fluid shower of my car, you will know that I soon after bought a Lockheed booster from SS. I installed it yesterday. I tried the accepted method of the can towards the firewall. I fabbed up a bracket with cardboard and soon figured out that my LAT hood would not close with it in that position. The pictures below show how I skinned the cat. The two clamps I used are aircraft grade and were used to secure wires or fuel lines on a UH-1. I have had them for years and knew that someday I would use them. I have two more I anyone is interested. The brakes work great BTW, the pedal moves smoothly and with linear resistant with no "steps". http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-3.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-3.jpg http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/003-2.jpg Duke B382002037 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/mmichels at socal.rr.com From lpaulick at comcast.net Sun Apr 25 16:12:55 2010 From: lpaulick at comcast.net (Larry Paulick) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 18:12:55 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Lockheed Booster installed In-Reply-To: <000601cae48d$079e3190$16da94b0$@rr.com> References: <266846.7234.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000601cae48d$079e3190$16da94b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BD4BE67.7020803@comcast.net> Duke, I also used the brace, but welded a triangular bracket to bolt the booster, when I put it together about 10 years ago. Larry wsamouce wrote: > Morning List, > > If you recall my adventures of the Girling boosters that include hydro > locking my engine with brake fluid with the ensuing brake fluid shower of my > car, you will know that I soon after bought a Lockheed booster from SS. > > I installed it yesterday. I tried the accepted method of the can towards > the firewall. I fabbed up a bracket with cardboard and soon figured out > that my LAT hood would not close with it in that position. The pictures > below show how I skinned the cat. The two clamps I used are aircraft grade > and were used to secure wires or fuel lines on a UH-1. I have had them for > years and knew that someday I would use them. I have two more I anyone is > interested. > > The brakes work great BTW, the pedal moves smoothly and with linear > resistant with no "steps". > > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/001-3.jpg > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/002-3.jpg > http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy249/samouce/003-2.jpg > > Duke > B382002037 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN0993.JPG] From slaifman at socal.rr.com Sun Apr 25 17:49:49 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:49:49 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Lockheed Booster installed In-Reply-To: <000601cae4b8$30df81f0$929e85d0$@rr.com> References: <266846.7234.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000601cae48d$079e3190$16da94b0$@rr.com> <000601cae4b8$30df81f0$929e85d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4BD4D51D.8090708@socal.rr.com> I replaced my leaking Girling booster with a 7" *Girling* MK IIA . It was rebuilt, and failed soon. I replaced that with a Mk II *Tiger* unit, it with fairly large diameter, and an end plate, including Smitty's servo check valve. I'll check part umbers, if anyone wants them. The MAJOR "trick" is to have someone who knows what they are doing, and where special assembly is needed. I was extremely happy with Smitty in San Diego, based on a recommendation from Norman. He even had the rebuildable core. This was in November, 2004, and performing fine still. LOREN SMITH 2985 "K" STREET SAN DIEGO, CA 92101 (619) 233-7937 Norman has a story and pictures on his web site: *http://www.classictiger.com/mudge/pieces/tech1m.htm* Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com Mike Michels wrote: > Duke, how would you compare the amount of assist for the Lockheed unit vs. > Girling. If I'm not mistaken, the Girling is supposed to be 3:1 and various > Lockheed units are either approx. 1.9:1 or 2.2:1. > > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of wsamouce > Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:36 AM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: [Tigers] Lockheed Booster installed > <==== snip ====> From alpdavegre at msn.com Sun Apr 25 22:45:41 2010 From: alpdavegre at msn.com (DAVID GREEN) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:45:41 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps Message-ID: Hi, The only one to reply from our list was Tonythetiger and we both need center caps. I was told by one Tiger person who said the centers were cast into the wheel. Is this correct?? Anyone have a comment? Dave Green Tucson Az. 2 Tiger Mk1's From macdonald49 at shaw.ca Sun Apr 25 23:39:20 2010 From: macdonald49 at shaw.ca (Peter MacDonald) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 22:39:20 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] SLS Mercedes video Message-ID: There seem to be a few different versions on Youtube. If you see the one with the bridge in it, that is the Alexandria bridge in the Fraser Canyon. The tunnel is close to Boston Bar, but there are quite a few of these in the Canyon, some longer than others. These replaced the old cantilevered and other styles of wooden "bridges" that went around the outside edges of the rock cliffs. This was filmed here in BC but knew nothing about it until someone sent me a video - must have kept it quiet somehow! Peter From achd73 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 26 03:48:57 2010 From: achd73 at yahoo.com (Tony Somebody) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 02:48:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Last years SUNI Message-ID: <663810.29243.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In the parts room at Suni to the right of Doug Jennings Jr.(facing Doug) was a guy with a few different parts and several undrilled LAT 9 Pie mags. The hole pattern was undrilled for anyone having installed other than stock wheel patterns- most likely for rear disc that didnt match stock. He was with his wife an it seems they lived in Ok. or the southern part of the states. IF he receives LIST mail or if anyone has his contact information, please email me of list.regards to ALL. TonytheTiger From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Apr 26 05:08:46 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 07:08:46 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Dave According to TBON; the LAT 9 wheel has a closed center cap; also stated - many had the center cap off or made removable to aid tire replacement. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVID GREEN Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 12:46 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps Hi, The only one to reply from our list was Tonythetiger and we both need center caps. I was told by one Tiger person who said the centers were cast into the wheel. Is this correct?? Anyone have a comment? Dave Green Tucson Az. 2 Tiger Mk1's _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2834 - Release Date: 04/25/10 06:31:00 From djoh797014 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 26 10:15:57 2010 From: djoh797014 at yahoo.com (David T Johnson) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:15:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <800195.77844.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Ron is correct. The LAT-9 had the Tiger cast into the wheel. I can't imagine why. Mounting and balancing must have been a problem. Mounting can be done at any tire store that has a machine which does not require a center hole. Balancing can't be done. I used an old Walter P Chrysler gearhead who runs an alignment shop. He used a Strobe light balancer to balance them on the car. That worked great while I was living in Il. Now I'm in Indy. I found a 5th LAT-9 with the head cut off and I also had a Tiger head relacement/repair from somewhere in time In my car repair efforts, I dismounted the tires and had the LAT 9s cleaned and polished. I had the repair head welded back in position and the wheel remachined so you can't tell from the outside. Now I have 5 LAT-9s in case I break one. I called Hunter Inc and found they still make strobe light balancers. Their mfg rep said that are used to balance large truck wheels that don't fit on machines. He gave me a number of a customer. I called and yes he can balance my LAT 9s. My PC had a crash and I'm using my Office PC. I can only read and respond during lunch. Dave --- On Mon, 4/26/10, Ron Fraser wrote: From: Ron Fraser Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps To: "'DAVID GREEN'" , tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 11:08 AM Dave According to TBON; the LAT 9 wheel has a closed center cap; also stated - many had the center cap off or made removable to aid tire replacement. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVID GREEN Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 12:46 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps Hi, The only one to reply from our list was Tonythetiger and we both need center caps. I was told by one Tiger person who said the centers were cast into the wheel. Is this correct?? Anyone have a comment? Dave Green Tucson Az. 2 Tiger Mk1's _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2834 - Release Date: 04/25/10 06:31:00 _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/djoh797014 at yahoo.com From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Apr 26 11:05:19 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:05:19 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?water_pumps?= Message-ID: <20100426170519.7B75618767E@autox.team.net> Which hi-po aftermarket water pump did we decide could be used with a 302 in a tiger? Thanks guys, in advance...... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "David T Johnson" Date: Mon, Apr 26, 2010 11:15 Subject: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps To: "'DAVID GREEN'" , , Ron is correct. The LAT-9 had the Tiger cast into the wheel. I can't imagine why. Mounting and balancing must have been a problem. Mounting can be done at any tire store that has a machine which does not require a center hole. Balancing can't be done. I used an old Walter P Chrysler gearhead who runs an alignment shop. He used a Strobe light balancer to balance them on the car. That worked great while I was living in Il. Now I'm in Indy. I found a 5th LAT-9 with the head cut off and I also had a Tiger head relacement/repair from somewhere in time In my car repair efforts, I dismounted the tires and had the LAT 9s cleaned and polished. I had the repair head welded back in position and the wheel remachined so you can't tell from the outside. Now I have 5 LAT-9s in case I break one. I called Hunter Inc and found they still make strobe light balancers. Their mfg rep said that are used to balance large truck wheels that don't fit on machines. He gave me a number of a customer. I called and yes he can balance my LAT 9s. My PC had a crash and I'm using my Office PC. I can only read and respond during lunch. Dave --- On Mon, 4/26/10, Ron Fraser wrote: From: Ron Fraser Subject: Re: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps To: "'DAVID GREEN'" , tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 11:08 AM Dave According to TBON; the LAT 9 wheel has a closed center cap; also stated - many had the center cap off or made removable to aid tire replacement. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVID GREEN Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 12:46 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Lat 9 center caps Hi, The only one to reply from our list was Tonythetiger and we both need center caps. I was told by one Tiger person who said the centers were cast into the wheel. Is this correct?? Anyone have a comment? Dave Green Tucson Az. From rfraser at bluefrog.com Mon Apr 26 14:32:47 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 16:32:47 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] water pumps In-Reply-To: <20100426170519.7B75618767E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Edelbrock p/n's 8841 Backing Plate 8842 No Backing Plate Stewart Stage 1 #16103 which is an alloy pump w/o a rear cover. These are the numbers that pop up. Any time you have a different set of parts be sure to check the position of the hub, check the belt alignment and fan to radiator clearance. Make any adjustments before starting the engine. Different parts will have slightly different dimensions with different tolerances which could stack up and cause a problem. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 1:05 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Tigers] water pumps Which hi-po aftermarket water pump did we decide could be used with a 302 in a tiger? Thanks guys, in advance...... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone From jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk Mon Apr 26 14:51:16 2010 From: jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk (Jeff Howarth) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 21:51:16 +0100 Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? Message-ID: Hi Everyone, I have been looking at carnauba wax polishes to keep the tiger shiny. they seem to range form $30 to over $300. does anyone have Any experience or recommendations ? Have used autoglym up to date with good effects but I am wondering if its worth the difference?? regards -- Jeff Howarth From sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net Mon Apr 26 15:02:47 2010 From: sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net (Paul R Sheahan) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 14:02:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <24381.44432.qm@web83712.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Jeff, Go to the Zaino Brothers website and look at that product. I have used it for years and have gotten excellent results. Their wax, clay bar system, leather/vinyl cleaner and dressing products are outstanding. Paul Paul R Sheahan --- On Mon, 4/26/10, Jeff Howarth wrote: From: Jeff Howarth Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 4:51 PM Hi Everyone, I have been looking at carnauba wax polishes to keep the tiger shiny. they seem to range form $30 to over $300. does anyone have Any experience or recommendations ? Have used autoglym up to date with good effects but I am wondering if its worth the difference?? regards -- Jeff Howarth _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sunbeamtiger at prodigy.net From arado7 at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 15:13:07 2010 From: arado7 at sbcglobal.net (arado7 at sbcglobal.net) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 14:13:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <445375.9340.qm@web82701.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I use Turtle wax ICE on everything. No white residue on black parts. Gary B9472283 Still in Spies Hecker Acrylic red lacquer. 1987.... --- On Mon, 4/26/10, Jeff Howarth wrote: From: Jeff Howarth Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? To: tigers at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 8:51 PM Hi Everyone, I have been looking at carnauba wax polishes to keep the tiger shiny. they seem to range form $30 to over $300. does anyone have Any experience or recommendations ? Have used autoglym up to date with good effects but I am wondering if its worth the difference?? regards -- Jeff Howarth _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/arado7 at sbcglobal.net From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Mon Apr 26 15:15:05 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 21:15:05 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100426211505.UUU44.177097.root@hrndva-web07-z02> I use GlossHaus Perfect Carnauba Wax. I only use GlossHaus products and they are amazing. A friend of mine started the company several years back and it is now being managed by another but the products are the best I have used in ~25 years of car rubbin and showin. Get the stuff here - http://www.shop-atlantic-euro.com/servlet/the-10/GlossHaus-Complete-Kit-%28without/Detail Duke B382002037 ---- Jeff Howarth wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I have been looking at carnauba wax polishes to keep the tiger shiny. > > they seem to range form $30 to over $300. > > does anyone have Any experience or recommendations ? > > Have used autoglym up to date with good effects but I am wondering if > its worth the difference?? > > > regards > > -- > Jeff Howarth > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com From w_pierzga at msn.com Mon Apr 26 16:28:29 2010 From: w_pierzga at msn.com (Wayne-MSN) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 18:28:29 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Girling Brake Booster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thought I would toss in this suggestion regarding the Girling Brake Booster. I have rebuilt numerous units over the years (probably close to 10). All worked without incident. A problem I encountered in each unit I rebuilt concerned the inside of the vacuum canister. As you all know, leaking hydraulic seals in the booster cause brake fluid to get sucked into the vacuum canister. Dot 3/4 fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water). Water contaminated fluid is absorbed by the leather seal fitted to the large piston in the vacuum canister. If the car is not driven frequently (exercising the brakes) the water attacks the inside of the vacuum canister especially on the bottom. The resulting rust/pitting can be severe, which will introduce vacuum leaks and further reduce the performance of already leaky the booster. My solution has been to chrome plate the INSIDE of the vacuum canister (actually the whole thing gets chromed), and convert to Silicon brake fluid, which is non-hydroscopic. Typically, I then powder-coat the steel canister/cover, and metal tube so all looks original. Two of the units I rebuilt this way have been in service without any issues for more than 10 years. [18 months ago I rebuild a unit where I powder coated the inside/outside of the canister rather than chrome plate it. Powder coat is very hard, nonporous and "immune" to brake fluid. Seems to be working fine but don't have enough time/miles on the rebuild to know how durable this solution will be.] Wayne From mai65tai at sonic.net Mon Apr 26 18:38:24 2010 From: mai65tai at sonic.net (John Stithem) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:38:24 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] TU XXXII Update Message-ID: <000301cae5a1$f1f48630$d5dd9290$@net> It is getting down to the wire if you want to attend Tigers United at a lower cost. Starting May 1st, if you register the cost will go up (see the registration form). To update what to expect at TU XXXII in Santa Rosa, CA June 17 - 20, 2010. Thursday June 17th. Check in at hotel. Registration. Tech car. Clean up car for those that drove to the event. Visit the vendor and hospitality suite. Friday June 18th. Late registration. Autocross at the Sonoma county Airport. Tech inspection at the airport. Mandatory drivers meeting at the airport. Lunch at the autocross. Saturday June 19th. Car rally. 1st car out at 9:15. Tiger quiz in the afternoon. Saturday evening optional guest speaker dinner off-site. Jim Adams (driver of the Hollywood Sport Cars #55 car) will be reunited with the car he drove. Dave Stone will bring the beautifully restored #55 car. Doane Spencer's daughters (Donna and Wendy) will be in attendance along with Chris Vandagriff who played an instrumental role in the rebirth of the #55 car. Two other HSC cars will be at TU XXXII this year, the 1966 McLearn Mk1 and the 1976 Dekon Monza. If that is not enough for you---Randy Riggs, the owner of Vintage Motorsport magazine will be there to cover Tiger's United for the magazine. Sunday June 20th. Concours de Elegance. This year will be a little different than past years. We are joining an annual car show that takes place in Santa Rosa. The Sunbeam Tiger will be the marquee car and have it's own show area. We will be joining 300+ hot rods, classic cars and motorcycles. There will be food and refreshments (did I say "beer") available during the show. This venue should attract many individuals and should be an excellent way to educate the public about Rootes Groups cars and particularly the Sunbeam Tiger. Sunday evening will be the usual awards banquet. If you have any questions about TU XXXII, please contact me at mai65tai at sonic.net --- if you have questions directly related to registration, please contact Cliff Alexander at mk1a67 at gmail.com From alpdavegre at msn.com Mon Apr 26 23:43:04 2010 From: alpdavegre at msn.com (DAVID GREEN) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 23:43:04 -0600 Subject: [Tigers] Re Lat 9 Wheel center caps Message-ID: Many thanks to Dave & Ron for the info. Now I need a loose cap sample to see if we can make some out of aluminum. Anyone out there have one I can borrow or buy?? Dave Green 2 Mk1 Tigers From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Tue Apr 27 12:38:01 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 18:38:01 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Small-Block Intake Manifold Survey In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100427183801.A96UM.326287.root@hrndva-web21-z01> Not sure if this is a repost or not. Great artical from 1988 on comparing 10 intake manifolds to include the "Cobra/F4B" and the "Tiger/low rise". I am happy to say that I have a Weiand 7515 on my 260 and it makes the most power. http://web.archive.org/web/20080415204031/http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/intakes/intakes.htm Duke B382002037 From atwittsend at verizon.net Tue Apr 27 14:13:05 2010 From: atwittsend at verizon.net (Thomas Witt) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 13:13:05 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Small-Block Intake Manifold Survey References: <20100427183801.A96UM.326287.root@hrndva-web21-z01> Message-ID: Interesting..., I put the garden variety Performer side by side with the often sought after F4B. I also threw in the Stock intake as a comparison to the winner in each of the RPM ranges. Hopefully the format will display correctly with the plain text requirement. Based on this test: Performer vs F4B (and Stock intake comparison) RPM HP difference (gain) Stock (over/under PFR vs F4B) 2750 F4B 1.9 + 3.1 3000 PFR 4.0 + 4 3250 PFR 0.4 + 1.9 3500 F4B 2.8 -6.7 3750 F4B 0.5 -8.2 4000 F4B 4.4 -11 4250 F4B 1.7 -13.9 4500 PRF 4.2 -18.6 4750 F4B 4.1 -23.8 5000 F4B 9.2 -19 5250 F4B 30.7 -21.5 The stock manifold was best up to 3250 RPM. The Performer and the F4B see-saw back and forth. Up to 4750 RPM there is no more than a 4.4 HP difference. The Performers greatest benefits seem to be at 3000 and 4500 RPM. The F4Bs greatest benefit is above 4750 RPM with a noticeable 30.7 HP gain at 5250 RPM. An interesting final note is that the F4B never hit the maximum HP the Performer did (233.7 at 4500 RPM). The F4B topped out at 231 HP at 4750 RPM. Conclusion (based on these test): The Performer or F4B are an improvement on the stock intake from 3250 and up RPMs. The difference between the Performer and F4B are only about 4 HP up to 4750 RPM. The Performer actually beat the F4B in total HP by a small amount (2.7 HP) and at a lower RPM. The F4B was the clear winner above 4750 RPM offering as much as a 30.7 HP gain at 5500 RPM. Note, while I use the term "gain" it is more like "sustain" in that the HP did not drop off as much. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 11:38 AM Subject: [Tigers] Small-Block Intake Manifold Survey > Not sure if this is a repost or not. > > Great artical from 1988 on comparing 10 intake manifolds to include the > "Cobra/F4B" and the "Tiger/low rise". > > I am happy to say that I have a Weiand 7515 on my 260 and it makes the > most power. > > > http://web.archive.org/web/20080415204031/http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/intakes/intakes.htm > > Duke > B382002037 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2838 - Release Date: 04/27/10 06:27:00 From wsamouce at kc.rr.com Tue Apr 27 14:51:36 2010 From: wsamouce at kc.rr.com (wsamouce at kc.rr.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 20:51:36 +0000 Subject: [Tigers] Small-Block Intake Manifold Survey In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100427205136.HK6BY.328136.root@hrndva-web21-z01> I have a F4B for sale if anyone is interested. I also have a cast iron 2V 289 intake. Make and offer. Duke B382002037 ---- Thomas Witt wrote: > Interesting..., I put the garden variety Performer side by side with the > often sought after F4B. I also threw in the Stock intake as a comparison to > the winner in each of the RPM ranges. Hopefully the format will display > correctly with the plain text requirement. Based on this test: > > Performer vs F4B (and Stock intake comparison) > > RPM HP difference (gain) Stock (over/under PFR vs F4B) > 2750 F4B 1.9 + 3.1 > 3000 PFR 4.0 + 4 > 3250 PFR 0.4 + 1.9 > 3500 F4B 2.8 -6.7 > 3750 F4B 0.5 -8.2 > 4000 F4B 4.4 -11 > 4250 F4B 1.7 -13.9 > 4500 PRF 4.2 -18.6 > 4750 F4B 4.1 -23.8 > 5000 F4B 9.2 -19 > 5250 F4B 30.7 -21.5 > > The stock manifold was best up to 3250 RPM. > > The Performer and the F4B see-saw back and forth. Up to 4750 RPM there is > no more than a 4.4 HP difference. > > The Performers greatest benefits seem to be at 3000 and 4500 RPM. > > The F4Bs greatest benefit is above 4750 RPM with a noticeable 30.7 HP gain > at 5250 RPM. > > An interesting final note is that the F4B never hit the maximum HP the > Performer did (233.7 at 4500 RPM). The F4B topped out at 231 HP at 4750 RPM. > > Conclusion (based on these test): > > The Performer or F4B are an improvement on the stock intake from 3250 and > up RPMs. > > The difference between the Performer and F4B are only about 4 HP up to 4750 > RPM. > > The Performer actually beat the F4B in total HP by a small amount (2.7 HP) > and at a lower RPM. > > The F4B was the clear winner above 4750 RPM offering as much as a 30.7 HP > gain at 5500 RPM. Note, while I use the term "gain" it is more like > "sustain" in that the HP did not drop off as much. > > Tom > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 11:38 AM > Subject: [Tigers] Small-Block Intake Manifold Survey > > > > Not sure if this is a repost or not. > > > > Great artical from 1988 on comparing 10 intake manifolds to include the > > "Cobra/F4B" and the "Tiger/low rise". > > > > I am happy to say that I have a Weiand 7515 on my 260 and it makes the > > most power. > > > > > > http://web.archive.org/web/20080415204031/http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/intakes/intakes.htm > > > > Duke > > B382002037 > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/atwittsend at verizon.net > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2838 - Release Date: 04/27/10 > 06:27:00 > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/wsamouce at kc.rr.com From jkfqualbldg at cox.net Tue Apr 27 15:54:06 2010 From: jkfqualbldg at cox.net (Jeff Francis) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:54:06 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Intake Manifold Plumbing Message-ID: <00c101cae654$28a42d90$6d01a8c0@qualitydell> I just swapped out manifolds with my '77 Bronco since the Bronco had a Performer 289 on it and I need to get an insulating spacer on it as I'm boiling gas in the bowls of the tiger.... Anyway, the tiger had the temp. sender by the thermostat and the heater hose connection by the driverside head, and the Bronco was the other way. Which way is "correct"? Seems to me that you would get a more accurate temp. reading from both heads with the sender by the thermostat. Imput would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff Francis - VA Beach, VA From michael.s.king at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 17:19:32 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:19:32 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Intake Manifold Plumbing In-Reply-To: <00c101cae654$28a42d90$6d01a8c0@qualitydell> References: <00c101cae654$28a42d90$6d01a8c0@qualitydell> Message-ID: The temp sender on the stock tiger setup is in a T block in the hoses, many thermostat housings have the provision for the sender.. but the stock location is in the T fitting.. i do remember chat some time ago as to why thats not great.. but cant remember the reason. On 28 April 2010 07:54, Jeff Francis wrote: > I just swapped out manifolds with my '77 Bronco since the Bronco had a > Performer 289 on it and I need to get an insulating spacer on it as I'm > boiling gas in the bowls of the tiger.... Anyway, the tiger had the temp. > sender by the thermostat and the heater hose connection by the driverside > head, and the Bronco was the other way. Which way is "correct"? Seems to > me > that you would get a more accurate temp. reading from both heads with the > sender by the thermostat. Imput would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff > Francis > - VA Beach, VA > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King From tkparker1941 at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 18:19:13 2010 From: tkparker1941 at gmail.com (Tom Parker) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 20:19:13 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Intake Manifold Plumbing In-Reply-To: References: <00c101cae654$28a42d90$6d01a8c0@qualitydell> Message-ID: On my Tiger 2 - 289 the temp sender is located on the manifold coolant runner to the left side (driver's side) head directly behind the distributor. The sender is a big one (same thread size as the heater hose). When I installed the performer manifold the sender location moved closer to the head on the same runner, was smaller than the heater hose fitting. The 260 manifold may have been different. Tom On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 7:19 PM, michael king wrote: > The temp sender on the stock tiger setup is in a T block in the hoses, many > thermostat housings have the provision for the sender.. but the stock > location is in the T fitting.. i do remember chat some time ago as to why > thats not great.. but cant remember the reason. > > On 28 April 2010 07:54, Jeff Francis wrote: > > > I just swapped out manifolds with my '77 Bronco since the Bronco had a > > Performer 289 on it and I need to get an insulating spacer on it as I'm > > boiling gas in the bowls of the tiger.... Anyway, the tiger had the > temp. > > sender by the thermostat and the heater hose connection by the driverside > > head, and the Bronco was the other way. Which way is "correct"? Seems > to > > me > > that you would get a more accurate temp. reading from both heads with the > > sender by the thermostat. Imput would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff > > Francis > > - VA Beach, VA > > _______________________________________________ > > Tigers at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > > > > > > -- > Regards > > Michael King > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tkparker1941 at gmail.com From terrytoolman at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 00:23:56 2010 From: terrytoolman at gmail.com (TERRY MORRIS) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 23:23:56 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Trans gear for speedo Message-ID: How many teeth should the speedo gear have for a Mk1a. The one I took out had 17r stamped on it. The teeth were worn out. I replaced it with a new one but it didn't last a block. I'm thinking it has always had the wrong tooth count since I've owned it. In SS catalog it has a 16 listed but says it should have a 15 but not available. Will the 16 work? From rfraser at bluefrog.com Wed Apr 28 07:22:54 2010 From: rfraser at bluefrog.com ( Ron Fraser) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:22:54 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Trans gear for speedo In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <6E6F0BDF7D4148869EAE11AE47BFE55A@ronpc1> Terry Original gear - C3OA-17271-A has 15 teeth and is marked 15R; it is no longer available. The 16 tooth gear that SS sells is a better match with today's tire sizes. Different tooth gears from 16 to 21 are used to correct for tire size and axle ratios. The 17r gear should have worked OK but given a speedometer error depending on your tire size and axle ratio. These gears work with the stock parts; Ford 4 speed transmission with the speedo cable going into the left side of the transmission. Ron Fraser -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY MORRIS Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 2:24 AM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Trans gear for speedo How many teeth should the speedo gear have for a Mk1a. The one I took out had 17r stamped on it. The teeth were worn out. I replaced it with a new one but it didn't last a block. I'm thinking it has always had the wrong tooth count since I've owned it. In SS catalog it has a 16 listed but says it should have a 15 but not available. Will the 16 work? _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/rfraser at bluefrog.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2838 - Release Date: 04/27/10 06:27:00 From Carmods at aol.com Wed Apr 28 07:29:26 2010 From: Carmods at aol.com (Carmods at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:29:26 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Trans gear for speedo Message-ID: <2b400.228cb93e.39099236@aol.com> "In SS catalog it has a 16 listed but says it should have a 15 but not available. Will the 16 work? " Hi Terry, A 16 tooth gear will work but the speedometer and odometer will read low. This may be good or bad depending on the tires you have. If you broke a gear driving one block then you must have a bound up speedometer head or cable. John From dsmtjoy at cox.net Wed Apr 28 09:08:15 2010 From: dsmtjoy at cox.net (Mountjoy) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 08:08:15 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 184 References: Message-ID: <2B07C801F1BA4FAB97CAE07D44598B58@computer> Jeff, You brought up an interesting point (as an incidental). As a Tiger owner I also have two Early Broncos, a '69 and a '73. I also know other Tiger owners who have EBs. Any listers care to chime in on their ownership of both marques? Darrell ----- Original Message ----- > > Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 17:54:06 -0400 > From: "Jeff Francis" > Subject: [Tigers] Intake Manifold Plumbing > To: > Message-ID: <00c101cae654$28a42d90$6d01a8c0 at qualitydell> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I just swapped out manifolds with my '77 Bronco since the Bronco had a > Performer 289 on it and I need to get an insulating spacer on it as I'm > boiling gas in the bowls of the tiger.... Anyway, the tiger had the > temp. > sender by the thermostat and the heater hose connection by the driverside > head, and the Bronco was the other way. Which way is "correct"? Seems to > me > that you would get a more accurate temp. reading from both heads with the > sender by the thermostat. Imput would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff > Francis > - VA Beach, VA > ------------------------------ From cmccann at lwpb.com Wed Apr 28 09:33:55 2010 From: cmccann at lwpb.com (Cullen McCann) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:33:55 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 4, Issue 184 In-Reply-To: <2B07C801F1BA4FAB97CAE07D44598B58@computer> References: <2B07C801F1BA4FAB97CAE07D44598B58@computer> Message-ID: <4419C83983D4FB47AADD6847090647333BE9D80373@LWPB-EX1.LWPB.local> Hey Darrell, Great minds think alike, and have common taste maybe? I have a 69 also! And while I haven't experienced the issue that Jeff speaks about with fuel boiling in the carb, I agree the sender is probably more accurate at the manifold where the coolant cant get an average temp at a more centralized location rather than in just one bank, but honestly it probably doesn't matter much. But I don't know which is "correct" on the Tiger, as my Tiger is *still* apart, and I bought it without motor and transmission. My early bronco has the heater hose with the flow valve to the heater in the upper hose that comes off the manifold just behind the thermostat housing, and the lower heater hose is off the water pump. I'm pretty sure its OEM setup, if that helps. I don't recall off the top of my head where the sender is on the truck from the factory. Jeff, if you need a photo of the motor bay on the bronco undisturbed, I have a shot of my truck prior to restoration from under the hood, and its pretty clear...that doesn't help your Tiger but EB's I can help with! BTW, I highly recommend the old broncos as an enthusiasts interpretation on a function vintage ford utility. They are just cool all day long to me......IMHO.... ;) Cullen Tiger 1452 Bronco 69' Pantera 3925 Jeff, You brought up an interesting point (as an incidental). As a Tiger owner I also have two Early Broncos, a '69 and a '73. I also know other Tiger owners who have EBs. Any listers care to chime in on their ownership of both marques? Darrell > I just swapped out manifolds with my '77 Bronco since the Bronco had a > Performer 289 on it and I need to get an insulating spacer on it as I'm > boiling gas in the bowls of the tiger.... Anyway, the tiger had the > temp. > sender by the thermostat and the heater hose connection by the driverside > head, and the Bronco was the other way. Which way is "correct"? Seems to > me > that you would get a more accurate temp. reading from both heads with the > sender by the thermostat. Imput would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff > Francis > - VA Beach, VA From mai65tai at sonic.net Wed Apr 28 10:34:29 2010 From: mai65tai at sonic.net (John Stithem) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:34:29 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Tigers United Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601cae6f0$ad2d7f20$07887d60$@net> TU XXXII Update It is getting down to the wire if you want to attend Tigers United at a lower cost. Starting May 1st, the register the cost goes up (see the registration form). To update what to expect at TU XXXII in Santa Rosa, CA June 17 - 20, 2010. Thursday June 17th. Check in at hotel. Registration. Tech car. Clean up car for those that drove to the event. Visit the vendor and hospitality suite. Friday June 18th. Late registration. Autocross at the Sonoma county Airport. Tech inspection at the airport. Mandatory drivers meeting at the airport. Lunch at the autocross. Saturday June 19th. Car rally. 1st car out at 9:15. Tiger quiz in the afternoon. Saturday evening optional guest speaker dinner off-site. Jim Adams (driver of the Hollywood Sport Cars #55 car) will be reunited with the car he drove. Dave Stone will bring the beautifully restored #55 car. Doane Spencer's daughters (Donna and Wendy) will be in attendance along with Chris Vandagriff who played an instrumental role in the rebirth of the #55 car. Two other HSC cars will be at TU XXXII this year, the 1966 McLearn Mk1 and the 1976 Dekon Monza. If that is not enough for you---Randy Riggs, the owner of Vintage Motorsport magazine will be there to cover Tiger's United for the magazine. Sunday June 20th. Concours de Elegance. This year will be a little different than past years. We are joining an annual car show that takes place in Santa Rosa. The Sunbeam Tiger will be the marquee car and have it's own show area. We will be joining 300+ hot rods, classic cars and motorcycles. There will be food and refreshments (did I say "beer") available during the show. This venue should attract many individuals and should be an excellent way to educate the public about Rootes Groups cars and particularly the Sunbeam Tiger. Sunday evening will be the usual awards banquet. (Special note: Trailer parking is an issue at the hotel. There are a limited number of spaces available. Please be assured, anyone that needs a place to park their trailer, will have a secure spot, without charge, to park. It may not be at the hotel, but you will have a spot.) Any questions about the event should be directed to me: John Stithem mai65tai at sonic.net Any questions about registration should be directed to: Cliff Alexander mk1a67 at gmail.com See ya all in June!!! From jmartiniii at yahoo.com Wed Apr 28 10:43:58 2010 From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:43:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger Message-ID: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for TR2, TR3 MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit without drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. Thanks Joel Martin From dsmtjoy at cox.net Wed Apr 28 15:05:12 2010 From: dsmtjoy at cox.net (Mountjoy) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 14:05:12 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger References: Message-ID: Joel, You're losing me here. I think a little semantic refining is in order. BRITISH AMERICAN Bonnet = front hood Hood = soft top Boot = trunk Or maybe I lost it in that you really meant the TR2/TR3 front hood hinges for the trunk of the Tiger? Darrell ----- Original Message ----- Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:43:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Joel Martin Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger To: Tiger List Serve Message-ID: <941763.69153.qm at web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for TR2, TR3 MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit without drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. Thanks Joel Martin ------------------------------ From awtiger at cox.net Wed Apr 28 16:14:02 2010 From: awtiger at cox.net (awtiger) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 17:14:02 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2A123EDE64A243B0AF7073A4E320F2AB@awtigerPC> Yeah, Darrell...I think he's wondering if the chrome hinges for either the bonnet or the boot will fit the Tiger's boot. Frankly, I don't know, but it's a good question. Maybe a Triumphisti can enlighten us... Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE TAC #740 B9006857LRX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mountjoy" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 4:05 PM Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger > Joel, > > You're losing me here. I think a little semantic refining is in order. > > BRITISH AMERICAN > Bonnet = front hood > Hood = soft top > Boot = trunk > > Or maybe I lost it in that you really meant the TR2/TR3 front hood hinges > for the trunk of the Tiger? > > Darrell > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:43:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Joel Martin > Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger > To: Tiger List Serve > Message-ID: <941763.69153.qm at web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for TR2, TR3 > MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit without > drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. > > Thanks > Joel > Martin > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger at cox.net From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 16:35:02 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 08:35:02 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I know the TR's have hionges on the bonnet that are external.. as for if the holes are the same, i do not know.. but i know they wount have the receptical for the hardtop pins.. if that doesnt bother you the ones from a hillman minx and singer gazelle will work.. they are slightly longer in the body but the holes line up.. again though.. no provision for hardtop mounting On 29 April 2010 02:43, Joel Martin wrote: > Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for TR2, TR3 > MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit without > drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. > > Thanks > Joel > Martin > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/michael.s.king at gmail.com > > -- Regards Michael King From ross_hulse at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 28 18:37:28 2010 From: ross_hulse at sbcglobal.net (Ross) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 17:37:28 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1E9474440A714F229050BC69497084A3@ROSS> An alternative source is Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam. We should support these suppliers instead of looking for alternative ways to save a buck and down grade the cars. Ross "Commodore Blues" Hulse Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for TR2, TR3 MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit without drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. Thanks Joel Martin From drarmacost at pmlights.com Wed Apr 28 18:53:34 2010 From: drarmacost at pmlights.com (Armacost, Don Jr.) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 19:53:34 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: <1E9474440A714F229050BC69497084A3@ROSS> References: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1E9474440A714F229050BC69497084A3@ROSS> Message-ID: Couldn't agree more. We are just wrapping up our restoration. One original hinge was great the other had wear issues. The repo is a sand casting rather than diecast as the original. However they are nicely finished on the surface and identical to the originals when mounted. We have used an original and a repo and you can't tell the difference. Sent from my iPhone Don Armacost Jr President -CEO Peterson Manufacturing Co. 816-765-2000 drarmacost at pmlights.com On Apr 28, 2010, at 7:40 PM, "Ross" wrote: > An alternative source is Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam. We > should > support these suppliers instead of looking for alternative ways to > save a > buck and down grade the cars. > > Ross "Commodore Blues" Hulse > > > > > Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for > TR2, TR3 > MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit > without > drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. > > Thanks > Joel > Martin > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/drarmacost at pmlights.com > This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the Recipient. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute, copy or alter this email. Any views or opinions presented in this email are solely those of the author and might not represent those of Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) . Warning: Although Peterson Manufacturing and subsidiaries (Maxi-Seal Harness, Mission Plastics North/Arkansas, Transworld, Vector Tool) has taken reasonable precautions to ensure no viruses are present in this email, the company cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage arising from the use of this email or attachments. From michael.s.king at gmail.com Wed Apr 28 19:00:49 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 11:00:49 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: References: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1E9474440A714F229050BC69497084A3@ROSS> Message-ID: A friend just instaled the SS boot hinges.. as mentioned.. VERY GOOD quality.. but 2 things.. 1. The bolts in the repros are metric! 2. The washers supplied are to small and thin. overall though.. easily worth the price -- Regards Michael King From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 19:30:37 2010 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 19:30:37 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Tigers] =?utf-8?q?Trunk_Hinges_for_MK1A_Tiger?= Message-ID: <20100429013037.AD26A187669@autox.team.net> The trumpet hinges don't have the hardtop mount hole. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "awtiger" Date: Wed, Apr 28, 2010 17:14 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger To: "Mountjoy" , , Yeah, Darrell...I think he's wondering if the chrome hinges for either the bonnet or the boot will fit the Tiger's boot. Frankly, I don't know, but it's a good question. Maybe a Triumphisti can enlighten us... Andy Walker Edmond, OK B382001600LRXFE TAC #740 B9006857LRX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mountjoy" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 4:05 PM Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger > Joel, > > You're losing me here. I think a little semantic refining is in order. > > BRITISH AMERICAN > Bonnet = front hood > Hood = soft top > Boot = trunk > > Or maybe I lost it in that you really meant the TR2/TR3 front hood hinges > for the trunk of the Tiger? > > Darrell > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 09:43:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Joel Martin > Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger > To: Tiger List Serve > Message-ID: <941763.69153.qm at web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for TR2, TR3 > MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit without > drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. > > Thanks > Joel > Martin > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Tigers at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/awtiger at cox.net _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/spook01 at comcast.net From rande at thecia.net Thu Apr 29 06:34:43 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 08:34:43 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] trunk/boot hinges Message-ID: <4bd97ce3.4f88.0@thecia.net> 'An alternative source is Sunbeam Specialties or Classic Sunbeam. We should support these suppliers instead of looking for alternative ways to save a buck and down grade the cars. Ross "Commodore Blues" Hulse' I think Ross and others make a very good point. If for some reason you can't use SS or Classic, another option is eBay, where these hinges show up fairly often. And don't forget to buy new hinge gaskets (again a SS or Classic thing) so that the paint isn't scratched when you install the hinges. They come in a four piece kit. From jmartiniii at yahoo.com Thu Apr 29 13:30:02 2010 From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:30:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <948994.66271.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Ok, did not realize this would illicit such a strong response. I know many car manufactures use the same suppliers and use existing parts for their cars in order to try and hold down costs as opposed to new design and tooling. GM for years has done does this - alternator for Chevy $60, same exact alternator for Cadillac $300. It was just a question to see if one British Car Company - British Leyland and Rootes might have done the same. $178 plus pads or $49 including pads - it was just a thought. The point about No hardtop mounting provision is the kind of thing I would not have thought about since the car is now in pieces. Oh and boot = trunk, I think, backside = booty - yea that's right. Anyway, thanks for the responses. Joel From Theo.Smit at dynastream.com Thu Apr 29 13:53:00 2010 From: Theo.Smit at dynastream.com (Smit, Theo) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 14:53:00 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: <948994.66271.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <948994.66271.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840A848E61@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> There was much component re-use among various Rootes cars, (and I'm sure also much re-use within the BL brands) but I wouldn't expect it between Rootes and BL. That would have been like Chevy using Ford parts. Cheers, Theo > -----Original Message----- > From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joel Martin > Sent: April 29, 2010 1:30 PM > To: tigers at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger > > Ok, did not realize this would illicit such a strong response. I know > many > car manufactures use the same suppliers and use existing parts for > their cars > in order to try and hold down costs as opposed to new design and > tooling. GM > for years has done does this - alternator for Chevy $60, same exact > alternator > for Cadillac $300. It was just a question to see if one British Car > Company - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender and delete all copies. Thank you for your cooperation. From jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk Thu Apr 29 15:52:23 2010 From: jeff at v8tiger.demon.co.uk (Jeff Howarth) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:52:23 +0100 Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi everyone, thanks for the responses I received. Being in the UK I have limited choice but I found a clay system and carnauba wax form auto glym and the results thus far are excellent. I am also going to try the mothers California gold system on my daily driver - I have ordered off the web but it will take a while to get here. Zaino was another recommendation but I cant get it here - are they missing on a market ? regards Jeff In message , Jeff Howarth writes >Hi Everyone, > >I have been looking at carnauba wax polishes to keep the tiger shiny. > >they seem to range form $30 to over $300. > >does anyone have Any experience or recommendations ? > >Have used autoglym up to date with good effects but I am wondering if >its worth the difference?? > > >regards > -- Jeff Howarth From michael.s.king at gmail.com Thu Apr 29 17:11:44 2010 From: michael.s.king at gmail.com (michael king) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 09:11:44 +1000 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger In-Reply-To: <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840A848E61@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> References: <948994.66271.qm@web38103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <47A9A7829443AE49853415B6D05B06840A848E61@OLE2K7CCR1.ad.garmin.com> Message-ID: > but I wouldn't expect it between Rootes and > BL. That would have been like Chevy using Ford parts. > > Cheers, > Theo Well there sort of is.. via sub-contract... lots of the lucas parts are cross referenced. EG: SI-3 alpine indocator lights are comon to Mini, Triumph, Healey. -- Regards Michael King From CoolVT at aol.com Thu Apr 29 17:26:01 2010 From: CoolVT at aol.com (CoolVT at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 19:26:01 EDT Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger Message-ID: <9dfa7.77926071.390b6f89@aol.com> And some brake parts. In a message dated 4/29/2010 7:18:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, michael.s.king at gmail.com writes: > but I wouldn't expect it between Rootes and > BL. That would have been like Chevy using Ford parts. > > Cheers, > Theo Well there sort of is.. via sub-contract... lots of the lucas parts are cross referenced. EG: SI-3 alpine indocator lights are comon to Mini, Triumph, Healey. -- Regards Michael King _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt at aol.com From wseay at embarqmail.com Thu Apr 29 18:10:50 2010 From: wseay at embarqmail.com (Will Seay) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:10:50 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Trunk Hinges for MK1A Tiger References: <941763.69153.qm@web38101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <223AAD2EECBC4FF1BF71A0E5D7C50EC1@xpseay> Joel, Don't know about the Triumph hinges, but if you're interested in repros, you might want to try these guys: http://www.rootesparts.com/id103.htm Will Seay - B382001570 ____________________ wseay at embarqmail.com ----- Original Message ----- > Does anyone know if the BONNET HINGE KITS or TRUNK HINGE KITS for TR2, TR3 > MODELS are the same for the MK1A tiger trunk hinge and would fit without > drilling any new holes? Just thinking of a alternative source. From chris at cthompson.net Thu Apr 29 19:16:13 2010 From: chris at cthompson.net (Chris Thompson) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 21:16:13 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BDA2F5D.3020709@cthompson.net> Zaino is what I use on all my good cars. Beats the heck out of the waxes IMHO. Don't know why they couldn't ship it across the pond to you..... Jeff Howarth wrote: > Hi everyone, > > > thanks for the responses I received. > > Being in the UK I have limited choice but I found a clay system and > carnauba wax form auto glym and the results thus far are excellent. > > I am also going to try the mothers California gold system on my daily > driver - I have ordered off the web but it will take a while to get here. > > Zaino was another recommendation but I cant get it here - are they > missing on a market ? > > regards > > Jeff From JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net Fri Apr 30 11:30:25 2010 From: JCMC2006 at suddenlink.net (Jerry & Maureen (Mo)) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:30:25 -0500 Subject: [Tigers] Girling Brake Booster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: List, Wayne has a good idea with the chroming and power coating of the inside of the canister. I'll just add what I did, and that was to send the canister off and had it coated with Teflon from one of those piston coating companies. That was 10 years ago and no problems so far. Jerry Christopherson 9473187 -----Original Message----- From: tigers-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne-MSN Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 5:28 PM To: tigers at autox.team.net Subject: [Tigers] Girling Brake Booster Thought I would toss in this suggestion regarding the Girling Brake Booster. I have rebuilt numerous units over the years (probably close to 10). All worked without incident. A problem I encountered in each unit I rebuilt concerned the inside of the vacuum canister. As you all know, leaking hydraulic seals in the booster cause brake fluid to get sucked into the vacuum canister. Dot 3/4 fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water). Water contaminated fluid is absorbed by the leather seal fitted to the large piston in the vacuum canister. If the car is not driven frequently (exercising the brakes) the water attacks the inside of the vacuum canister especially on the bottom. The resulting rust/pitting can be severe, which will introduce vacuum leaks and further reduce the performance of already leaky the booster. My solution has been to chrome plate the INSIDE of the vacuum canister (actually the whole thing gets chromed), and convert to Silicon brake fluid, which is non-hydroscopic. Typically, I then powder-coat the steel canister/cover, and metal tube so all looks original. Two of the units I rebuilt this way have been in service without any issues for more than 10 years. [18 months ago I rebuild a unit where I powder coated the inside/outside of the canister rather than chrome plate it. Powder coat is very hard, nonporous and "immune" to brake fluid. Seems to be working fine but don't have enough time/miles on the rebuild to know how durable this solution will be.] Wayne _______________________________________________ Tigers at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jcmc2006 at suddenlink.net From rande at thecia.net Fri Apr 30 12:55:53 2010 From: rande at thecia.net (rande) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 14:55:53 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Rootes using BMC stuff Message-ID: <4bdb27b9.3584.0@thecia.net> There is the often repeated thought from Sunbeam book writers that Rootes could hardly wait to find another supplier for Alpine carbs other than SU, as Rootes didn't want to feed BMC coffers, and that supposedly is the main reason the Alpine Ser. V was switched to Zeniths. But, I have a question. Who supplied the original Tiger fuel pumps?. If it's Smiths or SU, weren't there other manufacturers to turn to, as well? From slaifman at socal.rr.com Fri Apr 30 13:03:01 2010 From: slaifman at socal.rr.com (Steve Laifman) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 12:03:01 -0700 Subject: [Tigers] Carnauba wax - experiences ? In-Reply-To: <4BDA2F5D.3020709@cthompson.net> References: <4BDA2F5D.3020709@cthompson.net> Message-ID: <4BDB2965.7040901@socal.rr.com> A great many years ago, as a summer job, I worked for a Pep Boys store in Glendale. They sold a pint can of "car wax" in liquid form with big letters "Carnuba Wax". Well, it was a suspension of waxy like materials that one would apple, let film over, then polish out with cheese cloth. Wasn't a bad product, BUT they also had some REAL carnuba wax for demo purposes. This was an entirely different animal, looking like a bar of yellow soap, with hardening of the arteries. You could rub it on the counter top, and polish it out. However, it was almost impossible to use in that form. But, it really did shine on a Bakelite counter surface. The modern products seem to need a power tool to polish it out, and should only be done after you've learned how to apply and buff it on a car you don't care about. ;-) It may need re-buffing after some exposure and weather. Here are some sources of the "Griot's Garage" products: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car%20care/car%20waxing/car%20waxes%20and%20sealants/best%20of%20show%20wax.do?code=PPC01&gclid=CP3aguyMr6ECFQ5biAod3l2SDg http://www.superiorcarcare.net/griots-carnauba-wax-stick.html Steve Steve Laifman Editor http://TigersUnited.com From jxnichols at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 30 20:05:28 2010 From: jxnichols at sbcglobal.net (Jeffrey Nichols) Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 22:05:28 -0400 Subject: [Tigers] Looking for info on B382001884 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Does anyone on this list own B382001884? I was wondering if it ever went through a TAC inspection. Yes, I checked the TAC list and its not on it. Nothing sinister, just curious. Jeff