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Hey Mike,<div>Sounds like several things are going on. A leak down will pinpoint valves or rings or head gasket. The rod knock will only go away with new rod bearings, assuming the gods smoked and the crank isn’t in need of a polish or turning. Wish I were closer - </div><div><br></div><div>Ron<br><br><br><a href="https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS">Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone</a><br><br><p class="yahoo-quoted-begin" style="font-size: 15px; color: #715FFA; padding-top: 15px; margin-top: 0">On Thursday, May 4, 2023, 3:34 AM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:</p><blockquote class="iosymail"><div id="yiv0547531779"><div>Took compression readings of the 1275 engine in my Bugeye as the start of the rod knock diagnosis. Not good. No 1 was 110 psi, No 2 - 90 psi, No 3 - 80 psi and No 4 was 110 psi. Which means none of them are up to snuff. Also found the spark plug wire for number 3 cylinder had fallen out if the distributor. I plugged it back in and started the engine. It idled smoother, but under acceleration the knock was still there and definitely coming from the block. All this with only 3 - 4 thousand miles since the swap from 948 to 1275. Next will be the oil in the cylinders and retake the compression test to see if the low compression is due to the valves. Might as well figure a head rebuild too. $$$$$$$$$$$$<div>Mike MacLean</div></div>
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