<div dir="ltr"><div>You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. <br></div><div>Mike<br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk <<a href="mailto:refisk@chartermi.net">refisk@chartermi.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Hi Mike,<br>
<br>
Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.<br>
<br>
Rick<br>
<br>
> On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <<a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" target="_blank">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas?<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
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