<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Thanks for the mention, Rick.<div><br></div><div>Due to some minimum quantity requirements, I have just a few of the 948/1098 and 1275 kits still available. </div><div><br></div><div>Provided there’s not so much wear on the main cap/half moon that the tolerance is beyond the scroll function working correctly, setting up a Smiths PCV will indeed help minimize, if not cure the leak while the engine is running. Otherwise, an align bore to restore air gap tolerance is the only remedy until it wears again. </div><div><br></div><div>The issue with the other kits commonly available is that the air gap, which should only be a couple thousandths, is increased to over 1/4” (over the diameter). In other words, the scroll function is completely discarded/not functional. At some point, the lip seal becomes overwhelmed with oil and internal pressure pushes the oil out anyway. My design not only retains the scroll function but also restores the correct tolerance without machining. There are several other superior design features that improves fit and function.</div><div><br></div><div>An extensive review, explanation of installation, and endorsement is available at the link below.</div><div><br></div><div>Anyone interested can send me an email for more information or interest in acquiring one.</div><div><br></div><div>Gerard<br><br><a href="https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-midget-forum.3/gerards-garage-a-series-rear-seal-kit.2681890/#msg-2681890">https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-midget-forum.3/gerards-garage-a-series-rear-seal-kit.2681890/#msg-2681890</a><br><br><div id="AppleMailSignature" dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br>On Nov 26, 2021, at 11:00 AM, <a href="mailto:spridgets-request@autox.team.net">spridgets-request@autox.team.net</a> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><span>Message: 3</span><br><span>Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2021 10:34:17 -0500</span><br><span>From: Rick Fisk <<span><a href="mailto:refisk@chartermi.net">refisk@chartermi.net</a></span>></span><br><span>To: David Doiron <<span><a href="mailto:ddoiron@cox.net">ddoiron@cox.net</a></span>></span><br><span>Cc: Spridgets <<span><a href="mailto:Spridgets@autox.team.net">Spridgets@autox.team.net</a></span>></span><br><span>Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Rear main seal</span><br><span>Message-ID: <<span><a href="mailto:F094FDBA-F911-45E7-896A-785DC4A96834@chartermi.net">F094FDBA-F911-45E7-896A-785DC4A96834@chartermi.net</a></span>></span><br><span>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8</span><br><span></span><br><span>Hi David,</span><br><span></span><br><span>The kits from MED engineering in England work. But they are quite pricey and require removal and machining of the rear main cap. The kits from Gerard's Garage work well and are also pricey. I ran one of his kits on one of my race engines and it worked well. But Gerard quit making them a few years ago. He came out of retirement a few weeks ago and said he was going to produce another batch, but I believe it's too late to get in on this run. The other kit for sale out there and sold by Moss, Spridgetmania, etc. all come from the same supplier in England. They slow the leak down, but don't really stop it. I have one of those on another engine.</span><br><span></span><br><span>I also have a well built properly ventilated engine with the nothing but the factory eyebrow piece and it doesn't leak. My last street Midget was a '72 with the factory PCV system functioning properly and it didn't leak. :-)</span><br><span></span><br><span>Rick</span></div></blockquote></div></body></html>