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<span class="s1">First, I would like the thank the group for all of the input, questions, suggestions and advice. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>it really helped me stay focused and active</span></p>
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<span class="s1">in summary</span></p>
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<li class="li1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="s1">the movement on the clutch was sufficient to work properly</span></li><li class="li1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="s1">the system was bled every why I knew how (at the time at least)</span></li><li class="li1" style="margin: 0px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"><span class="s1">it still did not shift even close to properly</span></li></ol>
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<span class="s1">at the time I pulled the engine, my leading theory was that the driven plate was backwards, to know, i had to pull the engine, so out it came. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Sadly, it was in correctly so I started to look at the
clutch fork and then noted that the TO bearing was in the process of disintegrating. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am not one to ride the clutch so I don’t think it was heat. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I only replaced the TO
bearing because the existing one seemed about 1/2 way worn down but was otherwise good, the car was shifting well but seemed like the thing to do as it was apart and only $20 or so for the part. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>the driven plate
had more than 50% life left, as best as I could judge and I really don’t know what to look at on the pressure plate but it did not show any discoloration from heat or slip so I used it again. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It did have some play
in the surface that the TO bearing rides against but did not cause me any concern. </span></p>
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<span class="s1">since it was all apart (again!) I replaced all the wear parts, the TO the driven plate and the pressure plate. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>took me 2 nights to get it back in and it shifted but still was not exactly what I wanted. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>A
colleague that owns a Lotus that is apparently also impossible to bleed told me he had used a new approach someone hard shared on you tube where they used a long tube from the bleeder valve all the way back to the master cylinder reservoir and cracked the
bleeder and slowly, using only 1/2 pumps, pushed fluid all the way back (with lots of stops to add fluid to the tiny reservoir on my clutch) and while I saw exactly 0 bubbles, </span></p>
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks, Phil</div>
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<div id="AppleMailSignature" dir="ltr">Post Script: I was able to attend the Austin Healey Club of oregon event and have put over 250 miles on it without any issues. </div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:48 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr"><span>As fas as the clutch, I press it as little as possible. I am to lazy to leave my foot on it at a red light and I am off of it as quickly as I can be. I was warned to not rest my hand on the shift lever as well so have never picked up that
habit. </span><br>
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<span>Thanks, Phil</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:45 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001]</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Thanks, Phil</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Forgot the pictures Phil. :-)</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure
plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Rick</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span> So, the engine is out and …. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works
tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a
picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving?</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice!</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Hi Phil,</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Rick</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over
the 20 years I have owned the car.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic
system.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it
into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and
none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter
pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need
to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf?</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement
to fully disengage the engine from the transmission.</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Open to any and all input!</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Thanks, Phil</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Thanks, Phil</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>------------------------</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>spridgets@autox.team.net</span><br>
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<blockquote type="cite"><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk@chartermi.net</span><br>
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