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Yes, I saw that, I took a video of the inside, as far as I can tell, the throw out bearing is the same as what I took out, does anything look amiss in this? I am ready to pull it and replace the driven plate as needed? Is it possible to put the clutch plate
in backwards and have an issue like this?
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks, Phil</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 10, 2021, at 8:21 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Hi Phil,</div>
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<div dir="ltr">3/8" movement at the slave should be enough. Here is a video that I made a couple of years ago that shows a properly working clutch on a 1275.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Rick</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 10, 2021, at 11:08 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Well, Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a proper pedal. That bind
said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to
measure displacement at each end. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out bearing</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Any thoughts on where to look next? Time to get and adapter to used the smaller cylinder from the 1098? Has that been done by anyone who can share how they did it?<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks, Phil</div>
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<div id="x_AppleMailSignature" dir="ltr">On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:</div>
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<div dir="ltr"> Great question on the movement distance. I did not measure it and at this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did reuse the clips that hold
it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can. <br>
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks, Phil</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel <aseippel@austin.rr.com> wrote:<br>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release bearing arm?</span></p>
<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Arial",sans-serif">Jim</span></p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Spridgets <spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>
On Behalf Of </b>Phil Sarikas via Spridgets<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> spridgets@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch</p>
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<p style="margin:0in"><span style="font-size:8.5pt; font-family:"Helvetica Neue",serif">I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point,
everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car. </span></p>
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<p style="margin:0in; font-stretch:normal"><span style="font-size:8.5pt; font-family:"Helvetica Neue",serif">Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission,
and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. </span></p>
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<p style="margin:0in; font-stretch:normal"><span style="font-size:8.5pt; font-family:"Helvetica Neue",serif">Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to
pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried
it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. </span></p>
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<p style="margin:0in; font-stretch:normal"><span style="font-size:8.5pt; font-family:"Helvetica Neue",serif">I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master
but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller
cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover
from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? </span></p>
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<p style="margin:0in; font-stretch:normal"><span style="font-size:8.5pt; font-family:"Helvetica Neue",serif">Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting
movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. </span></p>
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<p style="margin:0in; font-stretch:normal"><span style="font-size:8.5pt; font-family:"Helvetica Neue",serif">Open to any and all input!</span></p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Helvetica Neue",serif">Thanks, Phil</span></p>
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<p class="x_MsoNormal">Thanks, Phil</p>
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