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Oh my. I think so, but now that you ask, I will have to check. I can, pry open the inspection port and put a small camera in there this week to confirm. I will start that Tuesday night<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks, Phil</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Hi Phil,</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Rick</div>
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<div><image0.jpeg></div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
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I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned
the car. </p>
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Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system. </p>
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Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the
path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change. </p>
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I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder.
As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic
part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a <span dir="ltr">7/16</span> fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be
female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? </p>
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Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine
from the transmission. </p>
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Open to any and all input!</p>
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Thanks, Phil</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks, Phil</div>
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