<div dir="ltr">Of course you are correct, Rick. Pressure Differential warning whatever is just too much to type! I know I had one in my '77 Midget and I actually tried to figure it out. <div><br></div><div>My point for the post was to make sure Linda has everything she needs to do a first rate brake job.<br clear="all"><div><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div><br></div><div>Allen Hefner</div>
<div>Norristown, PA</div><div>Sun City Center, FL</div>
<div> </div>
<div><em>Current:</em></div>
<div>2016 Subaru outback somewhere</div><div>2006 Chebbie</div>
<div><em>Former:</em></div>
<div>1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series III</div>
<div>1967 Triumph TR4A IRS</div>
<div>1964 VW Type I</div>
<div>1967 VW Type II</div>
<div>1967 Rover 2000TC</div>
<div>1977 MG Midget (Sniff!)</div></div></div></div></div></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 4:10 PM Rick Fisk via Spridgets <<a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Just a small nit guys, but a couple of you have mentioned the brake "proportioning valve". No proportioning valve on a Spridget. The device you're refering to is the PDWA - Pressure Differential Warning Assembly. It simply turns on a light to tell you if the pressure is different between your front and rear brakes, no proportioning.<div><br></div><div>Linda's car does not have one, so ignore all of this Linda. :-)</div><div><br></div><div>Rick<br><br><div id="gmail-m_1820885294773007646AppleMailSignature" dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br>On Jun 29, 2019, at 3:05 PM, crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <<a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" target="_blank">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
<div style="font-size:10pt"><div dir="auto">Ok it works just fine...mine does. </div><div dir="auto">Everyone is seemingly skipping one valuable step. </div><div dir="auto">Loosen the bleeder screw, thrn close it just enough that it's closed but not tight! Attach the bleeder hose and pump up the mighty vav to as much vacume the gauge will read. Now ever so slightly crack the bleeder screw and watch the gauge on the mighty vav! Just before it reads ZERO shut the bleeder screw.</div><div dir="auto">Repete until you have a steady stream coming into the bleeder cup. Close the bleeder after the last pull of fluid and then snug it closed and if ya got one, put the rubber protective cap onto the bleeder nipple to keep dirt out of it and move to the next wheel.</div><div dir="auto">When bleeding a car without a proportioning valve start with the wheel FARTHEST from the master cylinder and work your way forward . if it has
a proportionong valve the same rule applies but you only do front as 1 circuit and then the front as 1 circuit and if the proportioning valve goes off center...recenter it.</div><div dir="auto">Then be certain the master cylinder is at a proper level install the master cylinder cap....</div><div dir="auto">Yer done!</div><div dir="auto">Chuck</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><div dir="auto" style="font-size:9pt"><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div>
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