<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class="">First, using your “oh so shitty’ Mityvac, you did put some grease around the nipple being bled right? It’s important as air will come in through the threads. In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from the master if you ran out of fluid. I haven’t had much luck with Mityvacs either FWIW.<div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back on needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won’t help things.<br class=""><div class=""><div><br class=""></div><div>Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.</div><div><br class=""></div><div>Lester</div><div><br class=""></div><div><br class=""><blockquote type="cite" class=""><div class="">On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <<a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" class="">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=""><div dir="ltr" class="">List,<div class="">I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on any car project especially a Spridget.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will be leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our family in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to the passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still didn't have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don't fix what is not broken). </div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very squishy peddle.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed up last night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Questions: </div><div class="">1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything? I'll assume yes. </div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the good parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or put it back on during the bleeding procedure?</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class="">Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed with this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.</div><div class="">Linda</div><div class="">62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"</div><div class=""><br class=""></div><div class=""><br clear="all" class=""><div class=""><br class=""></div>-- <br class=""><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr" class=""><span style="font-size:small" class="">"Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br class=""></div></div></div></div>
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