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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 8pt"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT
size=3>Hi list, I guess it’s still customary to post an update every now and
again so here’s mine.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN></FONT><FONT
size=3>A couple of years ago I came across a W&P Sebring GT series 2
front.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3>
</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>I noticed the indicators weren’t a matching pair and
while one was a standard 69 unit the other turned out to be MGB with a clear
plastic indicator lense rather than the usual orange one you see on an
MGB.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3>
</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>Given the MGB lenses are plastic compared to the
glass of the Sprite/Midget, which also chip every time you tighten them, I
decided to convert my car to MGB indicators with clear indicator lenses . The
job was straightforward with a couple of holes needing to be drilled and a
rubber gasket made to go between the indicator and bodywork.</FONT><SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3> </FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>The fit
wasn’t perfect but the result looks ok to me and I got a useful weight saving
from the project.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3>
</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>One installation snag though, was the MGB indicator
wiring was shorter than the Sprite/Midget so I had to create extensions using
bullet connectors etc and taped them over.</FONT><SPAN
style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3> </FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>So fast
forward to the past couple of weeks when I removed the indicator and unsoldered
the original wires (a kind of mini-nipple soldered to the wire for the bulb
contacts) and made some longer ones.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT
size=3> </FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>I also got to use my new bullet
crimping tool, although I like to crimp and solder all bullet
connectors.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3>
</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>I also got to use my new heat gun on the heat shrink
sleeving I’d bought for the job and had new black plastic spiral cabling
protector over the top.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT
size=3> </FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>The longer cable also allowed me
to secure the cable along with the headlight cabling in a new s/s rubber lined P
clip.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3>
</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>The job didn’t end there in fact it didn’t begin
there, because I’d also made new headlamp loom wires – the existing looms date
back to about 1992 and heavy-duty gauge wiring to go with the 160W main and 100W
dipped bulbs.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3>
</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>So after more work with the heat gun, shrink wrap,
spiral cable protecting and testing the jobs are done and the grille
re-fitted.</FONT><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT size=3>
</FONT></SPAN><FONT size=3>Almost forgot, the other reason for replacing the
headlight looms was that every now and again when they were disconnected
(bodywork jobs normally – like a replacement front panel) a bullet would shear
off and so the wire got a bit shorter so the new looms are at least a couple of
inches longer to allow for repairs over time. </FONT></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 8pt"><FONT size=3
face=Calibri></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 8pt">Regards</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 8pt"> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 8pt"> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal
style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 8pt">Daniel<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>