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<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Thanks to all who answered my
questions or otherwise contributed to an understanding of the
concern.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">I pulled the torque specs from
my vintage race car maintenance log instead of the logs for my
street car or Bugeye, so, yes, they seem high for a normal
application. The race engine has a compression ratio of 11.0
to 1, it has been torqued to 60 lb/ft since I built the engine
a few years ago, so is appropriate for the application. It
also has 11 APT studs. The reason for the low torque on the
11th stud at the front of the head is that it is my
understanding that it goes thru the head into the water
jacket, like the thermostat studs do so doesn't have as much
thread engagement as those into the block.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">So, I will check the existing
torque settings with my beam torque wrench to see what they
are set at currently, assuming the DPO who built the engine
knew what he was doing. However, based on the condition of the
car when I got it, that might not be a safe assumption. In any
event, I plan to set the head torque at the factory specs for
a cast iron head and hope for the best.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Thanks again for all the
input.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Bob</font></font><br>
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