<div dir="ltr">Look for marine grade SS. It has a higher chromium and nickel content and is more corrosion resistant. The better SS products will not attract a magnet.<div><br></div><div>Kent</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Dec 12, 2016 at 5:22 PM, WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" target="_blank">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
<div id="m_-2863916024846382434role_body" style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;COLOR:#000000"><font id="m_-2863916024846382434role_document" color="#000000" size="2" face="Arial">
<div>Hi list,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>The last will be first etc. I don't have anything to sell and if I
did I think the shipping might be excessive. I think the list/my response
gave a couple of listers the impression I did when I commented on a previous
post about a 1275 and box being the best parts etc.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>So, onto a brand new question and probably never asked before on the
list. I run 8" drums on the rear of my Sprite to balance out the big discs
on the front and so I can perform 'parking brake turns' when the mood takes
me... Consequently I also originally had modified handbrake rods to work
with the 8" drums. When the holes in the clevis ends was worn more than I
liked and made the cotter pins sloppy I replaced them with new rods. The
new rods are for 'unisex' by which I mean they are designed to work with steel
wheel or wire wheel axle casings being adjustable in length. The
adjustment is at the drum end by way of the rod being threaded (metric M6 I
think ...) and a threaded clevis fork. Having recently swapped my
handbrake (photo attached and yes I realise I need to paint the inside of the
holes black) I decided to adjust the rods. One rod wasn't adjust that well
and when I put the rod in the vice and put a wrench on the nut I sheared the
rod. OK new rods on order + an extra long clevis end and an M6 die so I
may be able to salvage the old rod by threading past the break.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>However, it occurred to me that if the rod hadn't rusted the nut wouldn't
have jammed and the rod sheared. So, I'm pondering making a pair of
replacement rods in stainless steel. Since this stainless steel isn't to
the ARP grade of stainless and it is loaded in tension is it likely to be strong
enough? Probably I'll make a stainless rod anyway and find out.
However, I figure the standard steel rod wasn't that great a quality of steel
and yanking on the handbrake and loading the rod in tension ought to not break
even stainless bar, or will it.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Thanks</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div>Daniel</div></font></div><br>------------------------<br>
<br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div>Kent</div><div>1960 Bugeye</div><div>1983 Garage full of spridget parts!</div><div>2010 Arrow shed full of excess spridget parts!!!</div><div> </div></div>
</div>