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<DIV>After some poor experiences with replacement electro-mechanical flasher
cans I switched to a digital unit and it works great except if a flasher is not
working it doesn't let you know like the old units did when they wouldn't
flash.</DIV>
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<DIV>In a message dated 08/07/2016 10:57:30 GMT Daylight Time,
spridgets@autox.team.net writes:</DIV>
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<DIV>Here's some interesting observations with flasher units.<BR>I recently
had the flasher unit in my '69 Sprite fail. It occurred during my trip back
from MG2016 from Louisville to St. Louis. The lights all worked, but
were on continually when using the stalk turn signal. That's not much of
a problem, however flipping the stalk switch on and off to mimic a flasher
gets annoying! <BR></DIV>Once I got back home, I ordered up a new,
correct flasher unit (8-512, square unit) from VB. I was surprised to
find that it also did not flash the lights - constant on when using the stalk
switch. The old unit was revived briefly by putting it back in the car
and tapping the side of the metal can. Works just like a broken fuel
pump! Turns out the new square unit would not flash, even after tapping,
hitting, dropping on floor, etc. The new units are only rated (as noted
on the metal can) to 47W max. Two old style tungsten lamps (original
style 1156 bulbs; 27W each) would draw 54W at 13V. As expected the new
square flasher got very hot while engaged in the circuit. I don't see
how these new units can possibly work unless you have lower amperage
lamps. <BR></DIV>I switched to a generic flasher unit from Riley; a DOT
522 round can flasher. It works great! Hope this saves someone on
the list some time.<BR></DIV>Happy 4th of July and may all your flashers
work!<BR></DIV>Bruce<BR></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>