<div dir="ltr">Bob,<div><br></div><div>This can be a dangerous swap if not done correctly! Here are a few notes from Peter and Frank on the subject :</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>From Peter C:</div><div><br></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">The minimum parts required are:</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">1. Spindle or swivel axle, as it has the caliper attachment bolt holes that the BE spindle doesn't have.</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">2. </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">Kingpin</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">, as it is a different diameter to fit the spindle</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">3. The caliper and all its attachments</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">4. Hub and </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> rotor.</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">But, this gives you an opportunity to use the best a-frame and lower trunion pin between the early and late. The A-frame might or will have provision for a sway bar that you might want. You might want to use the newer springs if your BE ones are fading. Given the difficulties associated with removing the lower trunion pin, the most expeditious method is often to just swap out the Aframe with </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">kingpin</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> and spindle attached. There is less disassembly involved. You don't even need to remove the hubs or anything. Do check for play in wheel bearings first, and also in the king pin and trunion. Leave the steering arms attached to the spindle, and undo the connection at the tierod end. You also need to move the steel </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> line a little.</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> </span><br></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">From Frank:</span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">What Peter said and buy new rubber </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> hoses, don't even think about using the ones from the 70 unless you can see a date code on the hose and it is 5 years old or less.</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">Never ever use rubber </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> hoses 10 years old or older. They all have a date of manufacture on them, if it has no date, it's</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">PRE 1976 and will fail when you need it most during that panic stop.</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">Also I have run across </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">disc</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> conversions on Bugeyes where the PO just put the </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">disc</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> spindles on the drum </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> king pin.</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">The top of the pin and the top hole in the spindle are the same and it looks like it works but the lower end of a </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">disc</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> king pin is much thicker, if you just drop the later spindle on a Bugeye king pin it will work but when (not if) it fails, it will be catastrophic.</span><br style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">Similar to the failing of a 30 year old rubber </span><span class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">brake</span><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"> hose ;)</span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">Be careful.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">Kevin V.</span></div><div><span style="font-size:12.8000001907349px">Tuscarora, Pa</span><br></div><div><div class="" style="font-size:12.8000001907349px"><div id=":346" class="" tabindex="0"><img class="" src="https://ssl.gstatic.com/ui/v1/icons/mail/images/cleardot.gif"></div><div id=":346" class="" tabindex="0"><br></div><div id=":346" class="" tabindex="0"><br></div></div></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 3:37 PM, Bob Spruck via Spridgets <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" target="_blank">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Now that I am also a Bugeye
owner, I've acquired a whole new set of acquaintances. A guy I
met at the Atlanta British Car Day Show yesterday is interested
in converting his disc wheeled Bugeye from drum brakes to disc
brakes. All my square body parts cars are disc brake equipped so
I will give him the parts he needs.<br>
<br>
I am sure many of you have done this conversion and can tell us
what parts are needed. My understanding is that the A-arm,
kingpin, axle, steering arm, and tie rod are the same on a drum
brake Bugeye and a disc brake square body and all he needs are
the hub, caliper, and rotor. Can anyone confirm or correct that
understanding? Can you point us to any tech literature/
instructions, etc that will help? Of course, he will rebuild the
calipers, and install new bearings, braided hydraulic hoses,
rotors, and pads.<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br>
<br>
Bob Spruck<br>
</font></span></font></font>
</div>
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