[Spridgets] Sprite jobs update
Weslake1330
weslake1330 at gmail.com
Sun May 19 02:42:01 MDT 2024
Hi Rick,
The WIshbone looks interesting. I have negative camber trunnions but my
long term plan is to have a Frontline top link modified by a professional
welder (rather than me) that will create enough negative camber that I can
make the swap back to standard trunnions (that weigh less).
Some low resolution photos attached.
Regards
Daniel
On Sun, 19 May 2024 at 00:17, Rick Fisk <refisk at chartermi.net> wrote:
> Daniel,
>
> Sounds like you've got everything under control. I for one miss the
> chatter we used to have on this list and appreciate you posting an account
> of your activities. Post some photos of your work since Mark has given us
> the ability to include photos.
>
> When you replace the wishbones and pans you might want to consider a set
> of Clancy Schmidt's adjustable camber wishbones. You can easily adjust
> camber by adding or subtracting shims from the kingpin fulcrum mounting
> plate.
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> > On May 18, 2024, at 4:04 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi List,
> >
> > In the past a lister would occasionally post a project update for the
> other listers and since my wife has no interest in what I'm doing to my
> Sprite I thought I'd post an update here!
> >
> > The engine is out of my Sprite at the moment and simply wire wheeling
> some rust and flaky paint off for a tidy up and brush painting in the
> engine bay has escalated into a series of other small jobs.
> >
> > My car has the Frontline front top link etc conversion which bolts to
> the car using the three original captive nuts + a nut and bolt that you
> drill a hole for. Well, now I have a small welder I've decided to fit a
> captive nut to replace the 'loose' nut. I thought about cleaning the zinc
> coating off a nut for welding it but in the end decided to buy some hexagon
> bar and drill and tap it to make a nut that I can weld on that will
> actually looking similar to the originals. I bought the bar twice because
> I failed to correctly understand how bar was measured and the first section
> was smaller than I intended. The tap and drill for this arrived today and
> just as well I already had a UNF tap because what arrived was UNC tap. I
> wish I'd just bought the drill now. With my newish floor standing pillar
> drill and vice that I can, and did, clamp onto the drill table I thought
> drilling would be a cinch and and it was but not very accurate. So, I have
> one piece drilled and tapped instead of two. I guess I need to put the bar
> in my vice and get it accurately vertical by using a spirit level on it
> before I clamp everything down. I have already worked out that I need to
> allow enough room to change drill bits (working up from something small)
> without disturbing anything.
> >
> > I have had a copper hard fuel line in the car that I fitted possibly 30
> years ago, maybe 35 years ago. There was nothing wrong with it except when
> I drilled a hole for a clip to secure the pipe on that original
> installation, I chewed the pipe with the drill chuck. To get around a
> possible leak (the pipe was deeply cut but not all the way through, I slid
> a short length of hose over it and secured it with a couple of jubilee
> clips. Well it always bugged me to look at it and I have now replaced the
> whole front to back copper pipe with Kunifer pipe. On my car I have
> something I don't think I've ever seen on anyone elses, including hundreds
> of racing cars of all types, and that's a hard line connecting with a
> threaded fitting to a threaded fitting on braided s/s hose. It needs a
> special nut (forget the proper name) an Olive and then a flare on the pipe
> end. I've done one end and it's ok (but not yet tested under pressure).
> Kunifer pipe doesn't bend as easily as copper and while I've managed just
> about, I've bought a small pipe bender for the pipe at the rear. I need to
> finish the rear of the job but want to leave the car jacked up at the front
> for other stuff before working on the rear.
> >
> > While fitting the new fuel hardline in the trans tunnel and using new
> clips I decided to remove the bracket that supports the gearbox - my Sprite
> has the Ford based 5-speed conversion. I removed the bracket because I
> wanted to cut the 90-degree ends to become 45 degree ends not so much for
> the (23 grammes) weight saving but so it looked neater and was less likely
> for me to bang my head, hand, or whatever on whenever I am working under
> the car. I then replaced bolts (black oxide in UNC) with UNF ARP s/s with
> the small wrenching head (that I love!) and Nylock nuts rather than the
> plain ones that were on before. Then I took it back off (!) to move the
> brake line that was either moved for the conversion, or when I (not that
> long ago- last year?) replaced the copper brake line with Kunifer. The
> brake line is neater now and I also moved a clip to make sure it was
> clamped adequately in its new place.
> >
> > So hours and hours of work for a few simple tidying up jobs while the
> engine is out and my only regret is not sharing some of the other stuff
> I've also done while the engine it out.
> >
> > When I weld the new captive nuts on for the Frontline top link I'll also
> be wire wheeling and painting everything that needs it and replacing the
> wishbones and pans with brand new ones.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> >
> > Daniel
> > ------------------------
> >
> > spridgets at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> >
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>
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