[Spridgets] No Fire -New Engine

Mon Jul 22 08:17:33 MDT 2024

Jim,

Yep, that would be correct.  I check the points first because it's easier
to check for spark at the distributor cap than it is to pull a plug (no
tools required).    Although, it is best to check spark at the plugs first
if you have electronic ignition ;)

Kevin V.
Tuscarora, Pa

On Mon, Jul 22, 2024 at 9:57 AM Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:

> Great write up Kevin.  I'm not clear why  you would go with the
> distributor first and not plugs first.  If the plugs are sparking would
> that not mean the distributor is working?
>
> On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 8:31 PM Kevin Valentine via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Mark,
>>
>> Here's something I wrote a few years ago, maybe it can help;
>>
>> I always do checks for spark BEFORE I do the checks for Fuel delivery.
>> You don't want any stray fuel vapors anywhere near an area where you will
>> be creating a spark.
>>
>> Note;  More than once, I have witnessed an A-series distributor that has
>> dislodged itself from the hole in the engine block due to a distributor
>> clamp that was not tightened properly.  Checking to make sure the
>> distributor is held securely in the clamp would be well advised before you
>> check for other electrical problems.
>>
>> Another important note;  Before you check electrical connections under
>> the bonnet of your car, MAKE CERTAIN YOU HAVE NO FUEL LEAKS.
>>
>> To check for spark.  First check for spark at the points.  Remove the
>> distributor cap and watch the points while you turn the engine over with
>> the starter.  Make certain the ignition is switched on if you have a
>> separate switch for the ignition on your car.  If you can not see the
>> points while you are turning the engine over with the starter (you are by
>> yourself and have no one to help you),  switch on the ignition and flick
>> the points with a small screwdriver (or your finger) to see if you get a
>> spark when the points are separated.   If you have no spark at the points,
>> check for loose wires to the coil and/or distributor.   The problem may be
>> in the electrical wiring at your ignition switch.  You can hot-wire the
>> coil with a short piece of wire.  (I carry a jump wire with alligator clips
>> on each end).  On a negative ground car, connect the  jump wire to the
>> positive side of the coil and to the positive post on the battery and check
>> for spark at the points again.  If you still have no spark at the points,
>> the problem may either be the condenser or the coil.
>>
>> If you have spark at the points, - next check for spark at one of the
>> spark plugs.  The easiest way to do this is to remove one of the spark
>> plugs and with the ignition wire for that spark plug wire attached to the
>> plug, hold the spark plug in contact with the engine and turn the engine
>> with the starter.  You should see a spark at the gap in the spark plug.  If
>> you have spark at the points but no spark at the plug you may have a faulty
>> distributor cap or rotor.  If you have a spark at the spark plug, it's time
>> to check for fuel supply.  Put the distributor cap back on and re-install
>> the spark plug.  You don't want any stray sparks while you are checking for
>> fuel supply.
>>
>> To check for fuel delivery.  Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor
>> and activate the fuel pump.  (On cars with electric pumps, turning on the
>> ignition will accomplish this.  On cars with mechanical fuel pumps you will
>> need to turn the engine with the starter).   If you have no fuel being
>> delivered at the fuel line you disconnected from the carb, you may either
>> be; out of fuel,  your fuel pump stopped working, or you have a blockage in
>> the tank or at the fuel filter.  Another possibility is a broken fuel line
>> between the tank and the engine.
>>
>>
>> Kevin V.
>> Tuscarora, Pa
>> ReplyForward
>> Add reaction
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 8:18 PM Mark Haynes via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey folks,
>>> I've gotten to the point of asking for thoughts on my new 948 engine.
>>> The specifics of the new engine are as follows:
>>> 948 .020, crowned pistons, 12G202 head milled 0.185" (touted to be a
>>> Dave Tabor head) Rimflow valves (1.25 I, 1.06 E), Vernier timing gear,
>>> SPVP3 cam timed to 102.5 degrees ATDC, Jeff Schlemmer 25D distributor, APT
>>> lifters, 1.3:1 rockers ,ceramic coated piston crowns and combustion
>>> chambers.
>>> I finally got it installed with the new Gerard Garage 5 Speed, and I
>>> have spark, Ignition timing is set per Jeff Schlemmer, compression (when
>>> cranking only) 125 psi in all cylinders, carbs are getting fuel.
>>> I get no Bang, Pop, Fart,nothing from the engine when trying to start,
>>> even with starting fluid (checking that it wasn't fuel delivery) or
>>> rotating the dizzy, I tried swapping plug wires to prove it wasn't ignition
>>> 180 out or 1 & 4 wrong or 2 & 3 wrong.
>>> I brought in a friend who's a pro mechanic and he's as stumped as I am.
>>> I'm looking for any possibilities,
>>> Just to be sure, this is not even close to my first engine build nor my
>>> first 948 build. I know how to time cams and build engines, but this has me
>>> stumped and I feel really dumb, so I'm leaning on you all for some thoughts
>>> and support.
>>> God, I wish Frank were still here, he'd have the answer in a flash.🥺
>>> TIA,
>>> Mark Haynes
>>> It only goes one way- Pay It Forward
>>> ------------------------
>>>
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>> ------------------------
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>
>
> --
>
> Jim Ryan
>
> ©¿©¬
>
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