[Spridgets] Oil Change

[Ron Soave]

Wow. Tons of voice recognition typo oddities. Sorry about that! Bottom line, stock pushrods good, stainless ones with stock diameter ok, no need for Isky tubular in my world. 

Ron Soave

> On Jul 30, 2022, at 10:06 AM, Ron Soave <soavero at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Couple of things - until recently I used stock pushrods exclusively. You need that drain back. Also, my engines rev. A lot. I consider 7000 rpm short shifting  If you miss a shift or anything else goes wrong, the soft pushrods are an excellent mechanical fuse. The bend rather than valves and subsequently pistons survive. I rececentky have tried MED’s stock diameter pushrods, but made of harder stainless. That makes maximum horsepower at 8200 RPM  And I was told you had a great reputation but I’ve come to realize it’s really a fraud that the stock pushrods for flex like rubber bands at that RPM. That’s absolutely not true. Inspection showed zero distortion. The stainless ones are fine but much less bargain as a fuse. There is no need for the larger diameter pushrods. Your mileage may vary - this is just my experience on some stinky fast race motors. 
> 
> Ron Soave
> 
>> On Jul 30, 2022, at 12:55 AM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Mike,
>> 
>> Based on my experience this is completely normal, especially with larger than stock push rods.  I pour a quart of oil in and wait five miutes or so before adding the next quart.  Works the same for my 948 and 1275 engines.
>> 
>> Rick
>> 
>> PS - I'm enjoying the sunshine in Hesperia for the next few days.  Hot up here!!!  :-)
>> 
>>>> On Jul 30, 2022, at 12:04 AM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Did an oil and filter change for my Bugeye today.  One thing that has always bothered me since I built this 1275 was how slow the oil was to go down through the head to the pan. I have a raised valve cover for room for the 1.5 rockers.  I can pour two quarts of oil in the filler neck and then I have to wait for it to go down.  It fills up the entire valve cover and takes several minutes before I can pour the 3rd quart in.  When I built the motor I used hollow pushrods of a larger diameter than the standard type, but I had the through holes in the head for the pushrods enlarged as required for these pushrods.  Maybe the holes are not big enough in diameter.  Would this be a problem in normal operation of returning the oil to the pan while running?  I have put 3000 miles plus on this engine since the rebuild and it is still running great, but the oil pressure reads 90 psi on start up and goes down just below 80 psi when warm at speed.  For some reason the engine runs fine and puts out plenty of power.  It's just every time I do an oil change the slow drain into the engine makes me wonder.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>> ------------------------
>>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------
>> 
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