[Spridgets] Break pedal?

[crusaderchuck55 at aol.com]

Ok..ok...OK!QUIET ENOUGH...First my Bugeye has a 7/8" O.E. master cylinder with front disc brakes.   Sintered iorn ( honest to god Ceremetallic 60 year old lining!) rear shoes. Additionally it's a rib case with 1275 slave cyl..I have had & still have a great pedal pressure with no surprises and am using DOT 6 Silicone fluid.  All that useless rambling , the car has pretty darn good btakes and clutch actuation.   Yes it's not a 5 speed with a Datsun clutch.  But!  Where I AM going is this.   About 10 years ago I completely reconstructed a 1969 Elden PH10 Formula Ford from a bare frame up.  The 2 brake master cylinders & clutch master cylinder had to be replaced.  There was a serious pedal feel to brake response and another odd ball " the clutch always felt funny" stated by its owner.  The car was started ( disassembly) years before I inherited the project.  Parts were lost and hydraulics corroded , that said I had to replace missing master cylinders.  I am not very good at the math in determining the volume of a cylinder relative to the volume being moved in another cylinder to increase or decrease pedal pressure and also determine pedal travel ( which kinda has a lot of where the push rod attached to the pedal relative to the pedal pivot point).   There is / are a lot of available tables to do the " how big moves how much" calculations.  Yes and pedal free play at master cylinder piston at rest also effects the efficiency of the operation.One last " this might help" thing!   As far as rear drum brakes go , fully apply the emergency brake when bleeding the brakes.  Ot does not replace fully adjusting the shoes!  It simply removes the possibility that it's a poor rear show adjustment question.  So?  Ummm...next?Chuck


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