[Spridgets] Brake Bleed

Ron Corry ron.corry.iol at gmail.com
Sun Jan 16 03:27:47 MST 2022


I read on his website that Bugeyeguy has stayed with 7/8" brake masters
when fitting front discs and that he sees no need for a change to 3/4".

I changed to 3/4" a tandem master when I fitted front discs and Datsun
5Sp., but when I later fitted rear discs, the initial 'bite' on the pedal
went way down. If I pull up the H/brake when (foot) braking, the 'bite'
point comes right up again.

So, I now have a new 7/8" Master on the bench ready to fit, along with a
remote Servo. Will report on progress in time.

Yes, I know our cars don't need rear discs; it has been a fun (read Vanity)
project for me, that also eliminates all that trouble dealing with leaking
wheel cylinders and adjusting shoes. However, I will not negatively comment
if your choice is to keep rear drums.

On Sun 16 Jan 2022, 05:20 Rick Fisk via Spridgets, <spridgets at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Hi Mike,
>
> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master.  Make sure the rear drums are
> adjusted properly.  If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often
> will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.
>
> Rick
>
> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently
> swapped out for disc brakes.  The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8"
> sleeve for the Datsun clutch.  The new master is 7/8" in both bores to
> actuate the calipers correctly.  Installation went without a hitch and the
> car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down
> aways before it works.  You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't
> understand it.  There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts
> like there is still air in the system.  Any ideas?
> > Mike MacLean
> > ------------------------
> >
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