From stanbmason at aol.com Sat Jan 1 09:29:01 2022 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 16:29:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series Plans References: <762841705.525058.1641054541487.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <762841705.525058.1641054541487@mail.yahoo.com> Hello Spridgeteers, We have lots of fun and excitement coming up this 2022 seasonwith the 11th year of having fun on and off the track in Sprites andMidgets.? I wanted to get thisinformation out early since there are some changes.? The following are the plans for this season?sSprite Midget Race Series: 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series: ?????????Gingerman April 28- May 1 Exclusive SpridgetRace ?????????Black Hawk Farms June 17-19 Exclusive SpridgetRace ?????????Schenley Park July 23-24? Exclusive SpridgetRace ?Donna Mae Mims Memorial Race? (to be confirmed) ?????????Grattan Grand Finale Awards August 12-14Exclusive Spridget Race As you can see we added another race to the mix.? This is something that has been suggestedthrough the years of SMRS.? As most ofyou know, part of the motivation for SMRS was to increase race car attendanceat VSCDA events, when it looked bleak for VSCDA in 2008 as a member owned club withconcerns over a future of being viable.?VSCDA is no longer in that situation and continues to increase racerattendance. ?The plan is to add one racein other areas each year to expose SMRS to other areas of the US.? This allows us to try a new track and get toknow other Spridget Racers and share SMRS fun on and off the track.? We would invite them to join us at VSCDAevents with Grattan being the constant for end of season awards.? We will expand our traditional best 2 of 3races to now include best 2 of 4 this year as a trial run.? The best opportunity for non-VSCDA raceswould be before Grattan (Mid-August) and does not conflict with other VSCDAraces.? 2022 will be our first year oftrying this variation and we will start with VRG?s Schenley Park Race inPittsburgh, PA tentatively July23-24.?Our Pennsylvania friends have joined us over the past several years,along with Dave Kessinger sponsoring SMRS again this year is from the KeystoneState.? They are planning an exclusiveSprite Midget ?Donna Mae Mimms Memorial Race?.?We are hopeful that this will bring in other Spridget racers that maynot be familiar with SMRS (East Coast, South and Canada).? We will encourage them to come to Grattan forthe Finale since they will qualify for awards if they attend.? Donna Mae is a PA legend in many ways andprobably can be summed up in three words ?Sassy Girl Racer?.? Donna Mae was the first woman in SCCA historyto win an overall National Championship, which she did in 1963 driving a pink HP(948cc) Bug Eye Sprite. SMRS is alive and well in 2022 and we will continue the funon and off the track with our traditional Spridget Paddock, Exclusive Races, JointLunches, Awards, Good Comradery and Safe Wheel to Wheel Racing The Driver?s Committee has generously compiled driver issuesfrom 2021.? As your Group 2Representative I am compiling and streamlining those results for our review.? This will allow us to improve safety by beingaware of mistakes made so they can be avoided in the future.? I will issue these results before the end ofJanuary. I will be providing additional details as we get closer toGMan. Keep working on those Spridgets Gingerman is near! Happy New Year and Enjoy a Spritely Life! Stan Mason -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stanbmason at aol.com Sat Jan 1 09:30:34 2022 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 16:30:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series Plans In-Reply-To: <762841705.525058.1641054541487@mail.yahoo.com> References: <762841705.525058.1641054541487.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <762841705.525058.1641054541487@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1546283064.520810.1641054634822@mail.yahoo.com> Hello Spridgeteers, We have lots of fun and excitement coming up this 2022 seasonwith the 11th year of having fun on and off the track in Sprites andMidgets.? I wanted to get thisinformation out early since there are some changes.? The following are the plans for this season?sSprite Midget Race Series: 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series: ?????????Gingerman April 28- May 1 Exclusive SpridgetRace ?????????Black Hawk Farms June 17-19 Exclusive SpridgetRace ?????????Schenley Park July 23-24? Exclusive SpridgetRace ?Donna Mae Mims Memorial Race? (to be confirmed) ?????????Grattan Grand Finale Awards August 12-14Exclusive Spridget Race As you can see we added another race to the mix.? This is something that has been suggestedthrough the years of SMRS.? As most ofyou know, part of the motivation for SMRS was to increase race car attendanceat VSCDA events, when it looked bleak for VSCDA in 2008 as a member owned club withconcerns over a future of being viable.?VSCDA is no longer in that situation and continues to increase racerattendance. ?The plan is to add one racein other areas each year to expose SMRS to other areas of the US.? This allows us to try a new track and get toknow other Spridget Racers and share SMRS fun on and off the track.? We would invite them to join us at VSCDAevents with Grattan being the constant for end of season awards.? We will expand our traditional best 2 of 3races to now include best 2 of 4 this year as a trial run.? The best opportunity for non-VSCDA raceswould be before Grattan (Mid-August) and does not conflict with other VSCDAraces.? 2022 will be our first year oftrying this variation and we will start with VRG?s Schenley Park Race inPittsburgh, PA tentatively July23-24.?Our Pennsylvania friends have joined us over the past several years,along with Dave Kessinger sponsoring SMRS again this year is from the KeystoneState.? They are planning an exclusiveSprite Midget ?Donna Mae Mimms Memorial Race?.?We are hopeful that this will bring in other Spridget racers that maynot be familiar with SMRS (East Coast, South and Canada).? We will encourage them to come to Grattan forthe Finale since they will qualify for awards if they attend.? Donna Mae is a PA legend in many ways andprobably can be summed up in three words ?Sassy Girl Racer?.? Donna Mae was the first woman in SCCA historyto win an overall National Championship, which she did in 1963 driving a pink HP(948cc) Bug Eye Sprite. SMRS is alive and well in 2022 and we will continue the funon and off the track with our traditional Spridget Paddock, Exclusive Races, JointLunches, Awards, Good Comradery and Safe Wheel to Wheel Racing The Driver?s Committee has generously compiled driver issuesfrom 2021.? As your Group 2Representative I am compiling and streamlining those results for our review.? This will allow us to improve safety by beingaware of mistakes made so they can be avoided in the future.? I will issue these results before the end ofJanuary. I will be providing additional details as we get closer toGMan. Keep working on those Spridgets Gingerman is near! Happy New Year and Enjoy a Spritely Life! Stan Mason -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ezanner at gmail.com Sat Jan 1 09:30:35 2022 From: ezanner at gmail.com (Erick Zanner) Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 11:30:35 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series Plans In-Reply-To: <762841705.525058.1641054541487@mail.yahoo.com> References: <762841705.525058.1641054541487.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <762841705.525058.1641054541487@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks for the update! Hope to join you this year! EZ On Sat, Jan 1, 2022 at 11:29 AM wrote: > > > Hello Spridgeteers, > > We have lots of fun and excitement coming up this 2022 season with the 11 > th year of having fun on and off the track in Sprites and Midgets. I > wanted to get this information out early since there are some changes. The > following are the plans for this season?s Sprite Midget Race Series: > > 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series: > > ? Gingerman April 28- May 1 Exclusive Spridget Race > ? Black Hawk Farms June 17-19 Exclusive Spridget Race > ? Schenley Park July 23-24? Exclusive Spridget Race ?Donna Mae > Mims Memorial Race? (to be confirmed) > ? Grattan Grand Finale Awards August 12-14 Exclusive Spridget > Race > > As you can see we added another race to the mix. This is something that > has been suggested through the years of SMRS. As most of you know, part of > the motivation for SMRS was to increase race car attendance at VSCDA > events, when it looked bleak for VSCDA in 2008 as a member owned club with > concerns over a future of being viable. VSCDA is no longer in that > situation and continues to increase racer attendance. The plan is to add > one race in other areas each year to expose SMRS to other areas of the US. > This allows us to try a new track and get to know other Spridget Racers and > share SMRS fun on and off the track. We would invite them to join us at > VSCDA events with Grattan being the constant for end of season awards. We > will expand our traditional best 2 of 3 races to now include best 2 of 4 > this year as a trial run. The best opportunity for non-VSCDA races would > be before Grattan (Mid-August) and does not conflict with other VSCDA > races. 2022 will be our first year of trying this variation and we will > start with VRG?s Schenley Park Race in Pittsburgh, PA tentatively > July23-24. Our Pennsylvania friends have joined us over the past several > years, along with Dave Kessinger sponsoring SMRS again this year is from > the Keystone State. They are planning an exclusive Sprite Midget ?Donna > Mae Mimms Memorial Race?. We are hopeful that this will bring in other > Spridget racers that may not be familiar with SMRS (East Coast, South and > Canada). We will encourage them to come to Grattan for the Finale since > they will qualify for awards if they attend. Donna Mae is a PA legend in > many ways and probably can be summed up in three words ?Sassy Girl Racer?. > Donna Mae was the first woman in SCCA history to win an overall National > Championship, which she did in 1963 driving a pink HP (948cc) Bug Eye > Sprite. > SMRS is alive and well in 2022 and we will continue the fun on and off the > track with our traditional Spridget Paddock, Exclusive Races, Joint > Lunches, Awards, Good Comradery and Safe Wheel to Wheel Racing > > The Driver?s Committee has generously compiled driver issues from 2021. > As your Group 2 Representative I am compiling and streamlining those > results for our review. This will allow us to improve safety by being > aware of mistakes made so they can be avoided in the future. I will issue > these results before the end of January. > > I will be providing additional details as we get closer to GMan. > > Keep working on those Spridgets Gingerman is near! > > Happy New Year and Enjoy a Spritely Life! > Stan Mason > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deikis at gmail.com Sat Jan 1 13:23:28 2022 From: deikis at gmail.com (John Deikis) Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 15:23:28 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series Plans In-Reply-To: References: <762841705.525058.1641054541487.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <762841705.525058.1641054541487@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There is NO vintage racing like the Pgh Vintage GP through Schenley Park!! JohnD On Sat, Jan 1, 2022 at 2:16 PM Don Kelly wrote: > Love it! > Don Kelly > > On Sat, Jan 1, 2022, 11:29 AM wrote: > >> >> >> Hello Spridgeteers, >> >> We have lots of fun and excitement coming up this 2022 season with the 11 >> th year of having fun on and off the track in Sprites and Midgets. I >> wanted to get this information out early since there are some changes. The >> following are the plans for this season?s Sprite Midget Race Series: >> >> 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series: >> >> ? Gingerman April 28- May 1 Exclusive Spridget Race >> ? Black Hawk Farms June 17-19 Exclusive Spridget Race >> ? Schenley Park July 23-24? Exclusive Spridget Race ?Donna Mae >> Mims Memorial Race? (to be confirmed) >> ? Grattan Grand Finale Awards August 12-14 Exclusive Spridget >> Race >> >> As you can see we added another race to the mix. This is something that >> has been suggested through the years of SMRS. As most of you know, part of >> the motivation for SMRS was to increase race car attendance at VSCDA >> events, when it looked bleak for VSCDA in 2008 as a member owned club with >> concerns over a future of being viable. VSCDA is no longer in that >> situation and continues to increase racer attendance. The plan is to add >> one race in other areas each year to expose SMRS to other areas of the US. >> This allows us to try a new track and get to know other Spridget Racers and >> share SMRS fun on and off the track. We would invite them to join us at >> VSCDA events with Grattan being the constant for end of season awards. We >> will expand our traditional best 2 of 3 races to now include best 2 of 4 >> this year as a trial run. The best opportunity for non-VSCDA races would >> be before Grattan (Mid-August) and does not conflict with other VSCDA >> races. 2022 will be our first year of trying this variation and we will >> start with VRG?s Schenley Park Race in Pittsburgh, PA tentatively >> July23-24. Our Pennsylvania friends have joined us over the past several >> years, along with Dave Kessinger sponsoring SMRS again this year is from >> the Keystone State. They are planning an exclusive Sprite Midget ?Donna >> Mae Mimms Memorial Race?. We are hopeful that this will bring in other >> Spridget racers that may not be familiar with SMRS (East Coast, South and >> Canada). We will encourage them to come to Grattan for the Finale since >> they will qualify for awards if they attend. Donna Mae is a PA legend in >> many ways and probably can be summed up in three words ?Sassy Girl Racer?. >> Donna Mae was the first woman in SCCA history to win an overall National >> Championship, which she did in 1963 driving a pink HP (948cc) Bug Eye >> Sprite. >> SMRS is alive and well in 2022 and we will continue the fun on and off >> the track with our traditional Spridget Paddock, Exclusive Races, Joint >> Lunches, Awards, Good Comradery and Safe Wheel to Wheel Racing >> >> The Driver?s Committee has generously compiled driver issues from 2021. >> As your Group 2 Representative I am compiling and streamlining those >> results for our review. This will allow us to improve safety by being >> aware of mistakes made so they can be avoided in the future. I will issue >> these results before the end of January. >> >> I will be providing additional details as we get closer to GMan. >> >> Keep working on those Spridgets Gingerman is near! >> >> Happy New Year and Enjoy a Spritely Life! >> Stan Mason >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Sat Jan 1 14:15:21 2022 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 21:15:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series Plans In-Reply-To: References: <762841705.525058.1641054541487.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <762841705.525058.1641054541487@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <286572670.723433.1641071721412@mail.yahoo.com> A number of years ago the late Jake Jacobson ( racing nemesis of my father's Aus) told me the he preferred if I do not attempt to enter our 1960 Saab for Pittsburg due to the number of off camber corners .? He did not want the embarrassment of refusing an entry of a clearly eligible car.??That said we have never ventured to that end of the state for the event.??Now I do know Steffen brings Saab powered cars to the event but not a sedan like our car.ChuckFormerly the world's largest Sprite driver....lost my codriver due to weight loss... On Saturday, January 1, 2022, 03:24:32 PM EST, John Deikis via Spridgets wrote: There is NO vintage racing like the Pgh Vintage GP through Schenley Park!!JohnD On Sat, Jan 1, 2022 at 2:16 PM Don Kelly wrote: Love it!?Don Kelly? On Sat, Jan 1, 2022, 11:29 AM wrote: Hello Spridgeteers, We have lots of fun and excitement coming up this 2022 seasonwith the 11th year of having fun on and off the track in Sprites andMidgets.? I wanted to get thisinformation out early since there are some changes.? The following are the plans for this season?sSprite Midget Race Series: 2022 Sprite Midget Race Series: ?????????Gingerman April 28- May 1 Exclusive SpridgetRace?????????Black Hawk Farms June 17-19 Exclusive SpridgetRace?????????Schenley Park July 23-24? Exclusive SpridgetRace ?Donna Mae Mims Memorial Race? (to be confirmed)?????????Grattan Grand Finale Awards August 12-14Exclusive Spridget Race As you can see we added another race to the mix.? This is something that has been suggestedthrough the years of SMRS.? As most ofyou know, part of the motivation for SMRS was to increase race car attendanceat VSCDA events, when it looked bleak for VSCDA in 2008 as a member owned club withconcerns over a future of being viable.?VSCDA is no longer in that situation and continues to increase racerattendance.? The plan is to add one racein other areas each year to expose SMRS to other areas of the US.? This allows us to try a new track and get toknow other Spridget Racers and share SMRS fun on and off the track.? We would invite them to join us at VSCDAevents with Grattan being the constant for end of season awards.? We will expand our traditional best 2 of 3races to now include best 2 of 4 this year as a trial run.? The best opportunity for non-VSCDA raceswould be before Grattan (Mid-August) and does not conflict with other VSCDAraces.? 2022 will be our first year oftrying this variation and we will start with VRG?s Schenley Park Race inPittsburgh, PA tentatively July23-24.?Our Pennsylvania friends have joined us over the past several years,along with Dave Kessinger sponsoring SMRS again this year is from the KeystoneState.? They are planning an exclusiveSprite Midget ?Donna Mae Mimms Memorial Race?.?We are hopeful that this will bring in other Spridget racers that maynot be familiar with SMRS (East Coast, South and Canada).? We will encourage them to come to Grattan forthe Finale since they will qualify for awards if they attend.? Donna Mae is a PA legend in many ways andprobably can be summed up in three words ?Sassy Girl Racer?.? Donna Mae was the first woman in SCCA historyto win an overall National Championship, which she did in 1963 driving a pink HP(948cc) Bug Eye Sprite.SMRS is alive and well in 2022 and we will continue the funon and off the track with our traditional Spridget Paddock, Exclusive Races, JointLunches, Awards, Good Comradery and Safe Wheel to Wheel Racing The Driver?s Committee has generously compiled driver issuesfrom 2021.? As your Group 2Representative I am compiling and streamlining those results for our review.? This will allow us to improve safety by beingaware of mistakes made so they can be avoided in the future.? I will issue these results before the end ofJanuary. I will be providing additional details as we get closer toGMan. Keep working on those Spridgets Gingerman is near! Happy New Year and Enjoy a Spritely Life!Stan Mason ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/crusaderchuck55 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tequila.brad at gmail.com Sun Jan 2 17:11:49 2022 From: tequila.brad at gmail.com (Brad Fornal) Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2022 18:11:49 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] RWA Midget on NCIS Message-ID: My wife is watching NCIS:New Orleans. SE2 Ep4. There is a very brief shot of a black RWA Midget in a garage. around the 5 to 8 minute mark -- DON JULIO 1942 http://tequilabrad.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From weslake1330 at gmail.com Mon Jan 3 07:33:40 2022 From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 14:33:40 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Crossing a ford Message-ID: Hi List, Happy New Year Don't know if you have fords in the USA or elsewhere in the world. Here in the UK there are places where a small stream or brook crosses the road and for reasons most likely lost in antiquity, no bridge over or under was found necessary. After a lot of wet weather a ford may be impassable to anyone with a regular car and regular amount of common sense. At other times when the ford isn't in flood but an idiot in a regular car drives through it leads to a problem! And, when the ford is in flood and an idiot drives through it becomes entertainment. I forget what the UK Highway Code says about driving through a ford (except you check your brakes by lightly applying them after safely passing through it). The last time I drove through a ford I was on holiday in a rental car and took a detour to give my kids an interesting experience (never filmed it). I got out of the car checked the depth (between 4 and 8 inches from memory) and drove through, very slowly. Here's a clip of what is now a famous ford in England that his its own Channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm3vIQgBHdA Regards Daniel -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ron.corry.iol at gmail.com Mon Jan 3 09:37:15 2022 From: ron.corry.iol at gmail.com (Ron Corry) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 16:37:15 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Crossing a ford In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thank you, Daniel, that is certainly entertaining and sad at the same time in that so many drivers do not have a clue. Thanks for sharing. Ron. =========================================================> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 at 14:34, Weslake1330 via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi List, > > Happy New Year > > Don't know if you have fords in the USA or elsewhere in the world. Here > in the UK there are places where a small stream or brook crosses the road > and for reasons most likely lost in antiquity, no bridge over or under was > found necessary. > > After a lot of wet weather a ford may be impassable to anyone with a > regular car and regular amount of common sense. At other times when the > ford isn't in flood but an idiot in a regular car drives through it leads > to a problem! And, when the ford is in flood and an idiot drives through > it becomes entertainment. > > I forget what the UK Highway Code says about driving through a ford > (except you check your brakes by lightly applying them after safely passing > through it). The last time I drove through a ford I was on holiday in a > rental car and took a detour to give my kids an interesting experience > (never filmed it). I got out of the car checked the depth (between 4 and 8 > inches from memory) and drove through, very slowly. > > Here's a clip of what is now a famous ford in England that his its own > Channel. > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm3vIQgBHdA > > Regards > > > Daniel > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/ron.corry.iol at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jan 3 09:45:37 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 11:45:37 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Crossing a ford In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <219BFC8F-8E49-460D-8641-2FD0254F0CDC@chartermi.net> Forrest Gump was right. > On Jan 3, 2022, at 11:38 AM, Ron Corry via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > Thank you, Daniel, that is certainly entertaining and sad at the same time in that so many drivers do not have a clue. > > Thanks for sharing. > > Ron. > =========================================================> >> On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 at 14:34, Weslake1330 via Spridgets wrote: >> Hi List, >> >> Happy New Year >> >> Don't know if you have fords in the USA or elsewhere in the world. Here in the UK there are places where a small stream or brook crosses the road and for reasons most likely lost in antiquity, no bridge over or under was found necessary. >> >> After a lot of wet weather a ford may be impassable to anyone with a regular car and regular amount of common sense. At other times when the ford isn't in flood but an idiot in a regular car drives through it leads to a problem! And, when the ford is in flood and an idiot drives through it becomes entertainment. >> >> I forget what the UK Highway Code says about driving through a ford (except you check your brakes by lightly applying them after safely passing through it). The last time I drove through a ford I was on holiday in a rental car and took a detour to give my kids an interesting experience (never filmed it). I got out of the car checked the depth (between 4 and 8 inches from memory) and drove through, very slowly. >> >> Here's a clip of what is now a famous ford in England that his its own Channel. >> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm3vIQgBHdA >> >> Regards >> >> >> Daniel >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/ron.corry.iol at gmail.com > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dtwoerpel at gmail.com Mon Jan 3 11:04:57 2022 From: dtwoerpel at gmail.com (David Woerpel) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 12:04:57 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] Crossing a ford In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9f418a75-1989-f775-72b3-41bdd8130d88@gmail.com> HAPPY NEW YEAR List, Most entertaining Daniel!!? Blokes must have money to burn. Thinking of the modern electrics, engine, not to mention the Gucci loafers soaked by the infiltration of water into the compartment. It was bad enough driving home from the Midget 50th at Road America in a monsoon.? Bugeye had an inch of water on the floor and yes, sidecurtains and top were in place.? Never a miss from the headlamps or distributor.? Removed the interior, hooked up the wet vac (vacuumed out the sills), used a lot of towels, two dehumidifiers, hairdriers, went through all the electrical connections and two days later all good to go.? Around here we have a certain segment of the population that go mudding in their giant pickup rigs; akin to your Trials but just blasting through a mud hole.? Whatever.? Give me a Landy with snorkel! Carry on, Dave W. '59 :{) '59 MGA 1500 Burlington WI "Pay It Forward" On 1/3/2022 8:33 AM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets wrote: > Hi List, > > Happy New Year > > Don't know if you have fords in the USA or elsewhere in the world.? > Here in the UK there are places where a small stream or brook crosses > the road and for reasons most likely lost in antiquity, no bridge over > or under was found necessary. > > After a lot of wet weather a ford may be impassable to anyone with a > regular car and regular amount of common sense.? At other times when > the ford isn't in flood but an idiot in a regular car drives through > it leads to a problem!? And, when the ford is in flood and an idiot > drives through it becomes entertainment. > > I forget what the UK Highway Code says about driving through a ford > (except you check your brakes by lightly applying them after safely > passing through it).? The last time I drove through a ford I was on > holiday in a rental car and took a detour to give my kids an > interesting experience (never filmed it).? I got out of the car > checked the depth (between 4 and 8 inches from memory) and drove > through, very slowly. > > Here's a clip of what is now a famous ford in England that his its own > Channel. > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm3vIQgBHdA > > Regards > > > Daniel > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/dtwoerpel at gmail.com From bmwwxman at gmail.com Mon Jan 3 11:13:29 2022 From: bmwwxman at gmail.com (bmwwxman) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 12:13:29 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] Crossing a ford In-Reply-To: <9f418a75-1989-f775-72b3-41bdd8130d88@gmail.com> References: <9f418a75-1989-f775-72b3-41bdd8130d88@gmail.com> Message-ID: As a retired meteorologist I can assure that we have been warning the public about driving through water covered road conditions for many years. Sadly, sometimes the vehicle gets swept away by the running water, drivers are trapped inside or stupidly open the doors to escape. Statistically, there are more people drown by driving into flowing water every year than are killed by tornadoes! Happy New Year Spridgeteers!! Cheers! Jim in Dodge City On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 12:05 PM David Woerpel via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > HAPPY NEW YEAR List, > > Most entertaining Daniel!! Blokes must have money to burn. Thinking of > the modern electrics, engine, not to mention the Gucci loafers soaked by > the infiltration of water into the compartment. It was bad enough > driving home from the Midget 50th at Road America in a monsoon. Bugeye > had an inch of water on the floor and yes, sidecurtains and top were in > place. Never a miss from the headlamps or distributor. Removed the > interior, hooked up the wet vac (vacuumed out the sills), used a lot of > towels, two dehumidifiers, hairdriers, went through all the electrical > connections and two days later all good to go. Around here we have a > certain segment of the population that go mudding in their giant pickup > rigs; akin to your Trials but just blasting through a mud hole. > Whatever. Give me a Landy with snorkel! > > Carry on, > > Dave W. > > '59 :{) > '59 MGA 1500 > > Burlington WI > > "Pay It Forward" > > > > On 1/3/2022 8:33 AM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets wrote: > > Hi List, > > > > Happy New Year > > > > Don't know if you have fords in the USA or elsewhere in the world. > > Here in the UK there are places where a small stream or brook crosses > > the road and for reasons most likely lost in antiquity, no bridge over > > or under was found necessary. > > > > After a lot of wet weather a ford may be impassable to anyone with a > > regular car and regular amount of common sense. At other times when > > the ford isn't in flood but an idiot in a regular car drives through > > it leads to a problem! And, when the ford is in flood and an idiot > > drives through it becomes entertainment. > > > > I forget what the UK Highway Code says about driving through a ford > > (except you check your brakes by lightly applying them after safely > > passing through it). The last time I drove through a ford I was on > > holiday in a rental car and took a detour to give my kids an > > interesting experience (never filmed it). I got out of the car > > checked the depth (between 4 and 8 inches from memory) and drove > > through, very slowly. > > > > Here's a clip of what is now a famous ford in England that his its own > > Channel. > > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm3vIQgBHdA > > > > Regards > > > > > > Daniel > > > > ------------------------ > > > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/dtwoerpel at gmail.com > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/bmwwxman at gmail.com > -- -- Cheers!! Jim Johnson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net Mon Jan 3 14:15:09 2022 From: ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net (Ryan Kubanoff) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 16:15:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order Message-ID: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> So I am hoping that my midget body shell will be back from the painter soon. Once that happens I will start putting her back together. The question is what is that order? What do you recommend? Ryan 74 midget in a 1000 pieces -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pvanwig at mac.com Mon Jan 3 14:52:22 2022 From: pvanwig at mac.com (Paul Van Wig) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 13:52:22 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Suspension, fuel system, powertrain, carburation & exhaust, electrical, dash, interior, doors & windshield, cooling & heater, water & oil-motor-trans-diff, find the key and drive! Paul Van Wig Big Bear/Lakewood, CA [image: Mailtrack] Sender notified by Mailtrack 01/03/22, 01:40:22 PM On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 1:15 PM Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > So I am hoping that my midget body shell will be back from the painter > soon. Once that happens I will start putting her back together. The > question is what is that order? What do you recommend? > Ryan > 74 midget in a 1000 pieces > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/pvanwig at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Jan 3 15:16:49 2022 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 17:16:49 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Crossing a ford In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I crossed a Ford with a Healey See picture below: | | | | | } | [image: BritishCarDay6-23-13152_zps8644fe22 (1).JPG] Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 9:34 AM Weslake1330 via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi List, > > Happy New Year > > Don't know if you have fords in the USA or elsewhere in the world. Here > in the UK there are places where a small stream or brook crosses the road > and for reasons most likely lost in antiquity, no bridge over or under was > found necessary. > > After a lot of wet weather a ford may be impassable to anyone with a > regular car and regular amount of common sense. At other times when the > ford isn't in flood but an idiot in a regular car drives through it leads > to a problem! And, when the ford is in flood and an idiot drives through > it becomes entertainment. > > I forget what the UK Highway Code says about driving through a ford > (except you check your brakes by lightly applying them after safely passing > through it). The last time I drove through a ford I was on holiday in a > rental car and took a detour to give my kids an interesting experience > (never filmed it). I got out of the car checked the depth (between 4 and 8 > inches from memory) and drove through, very slowly. > > Here's a clip of what is now a famous ford in England that his its own > Channel. > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bm3vIQgBHdA > > Regards > > > Daniel > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/healeyrik at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BritishCarDay6-23-13152_zps8644fe22 (1).JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 69876 bytes Desc: not available URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jan 3 16:30:04 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 18:30:04 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1AA1199F-D8B7-483B-A042-CC1A748CE700@chartermi.net> According to the manual assembly is the reverse of disassembly. ? > On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:56 PM, Paul Van Wig via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > Suspension, fuel system, powertrain, carburation & exhaust, electrical, dash, interior, doors & windshield, cooling & heater, water & oil-motor-trans-diff, find the key and drive! > Paul Van Wig > > Big Bear/Lakewood, CA > > > Sender notified by > Mailtrack 01/03/22, 01:40:22 PM > > >> On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 1:15 PM Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets wrote: >> So I am hoping that my midget body shell will be back from the painter soon. Once that happens I will start putting her back together. The question is what is that order? What do you recommend? >> Ryan >> 74 midget in a 1000 pieces >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/pvanwig at mac.com > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net Mon Jan 3 16:34:38 2022 From: ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net (Ryan) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 18:34:38 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: <1AA1199F-D8B7-483B-A042-CC1A748CE700@chartermi.net> References: <1AA1199F-D8B7-483B-A042-CC1A748CE700@chartermi.net> Message-ID: <209BABB8-085F-43D4-9756-CBFA9F2DA54C@comcast.net> Not very helpful Rick. Funny! But not helpful. Ryan Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 3, 2022, at 6:33 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: > > ? > According to the manual assembly is the reverse of disassembly. ? > >>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:56 PM, Paul Van Wig via Spridgets wrote: >>> >> ? >> Suspension, fuel system, powertrain, carburation & exhaust, electrical, dash, interior, doors & windshield, cooling & heater, water & oil-motor-trans-diff, find the key and drive! >> Paul Van Wig >> >> Big Bear/Lakewood, CA >> >> >> Sender notified by >> Mailtrack 01/03/22, 01:40:22 PM >> >> >>> On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 1:15 PM Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets wrote: >>> So I am hoping that my midget body shell will be back from the painter soon. Once that happens I will start putting her back together. The question is what is that order? What do you recommend? >>> Ryan >>> 74 midget in a 1000 pieces >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/pvanwig at mac.com >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaschke at bak.rr.com Mon Jan 3 16:56:51 2022 From: jpaschke at bak.rr.com (Jon Paschke) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 15:56:51 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: <1AA1199F-D8B7-483B-A042-CC1A748CE700@chartermi.net> References: <1AA1199F-D8B7-483B-A042-CC1A748CE700@chartermi.net> Message-ID: <0923b51e-4522-d5e6-5f05-d342221b2a30@bak.rr.com> You know it really doesn't matter where you start just try and get something done every day. No matter what you put on it'll still come off and on again several times before you finish. On 1/3/2022 3:30 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote: > According to the manual assembly is the reverse of disassembly. ?? > >> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:56 PM, Paul Van Wig via Spridgets >> wrote: >> >> ? >> Suspension, fuel system, powertrain, carburation & exhaust, >> electrical, dash, interior, doors & windshield, cooling & heater, >> water & oil-motor-trans-diff, find the key and drive! >> >> Paul Van Wig >> >> Big Bear/Lakewood, CA >> >> >> Mailtrack >> >> Sender notified by >> Mailtrack >> >> 01/03/22, 01:40:22 PM >> >> >> On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 1:15 PM Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets >> wrote: >> >> So I am hoping that my midget body shell will be back from the >> painter soon. Once that happens I will start putting her back >> together. The question is what is that order? What do you recommend? >> Ryan >> 74 midget in a 1000 pieces >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/pvanwig at mac.com >> >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/jpaschke at bak.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lmacy at mac.com Mon Jan 3 18:54:04 2022 From: lmacy at mac.com (Larry Macy) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 20:54:04 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <892291BE-26CA-4E6A-9F3E-5BE8F0923D0C@mac.com> Just start. It?ll come together as it goes. -- Larry B. Macy, Ph.D. Use two fingers, it sends a better message - Peace Sent from my Magical iPad > On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:15 PM, Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > So I am hoping that my midget body shell will be back from the painter soon. Once that happens I will start putting her back together. The question is what is that order? What do you recommend? > Ryan > 74 midget in a 1000 pieces > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/lmacy at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From k8djc at zoominternet.net Mon Jan 3 19:52:23 2022 From: k8djc at zoominternet.net (Nelson Wittstock) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 02:52:23 -0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: <892291BE-26CA-4E6A-9F3E-5BE8F0923D0C@mac.com> References: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> <892291BE-26CA-4E6A-9F3E-5BE8F0923D0C@mac.com> Message-ID: <4143390C94874077BF9B0E3AC6B1E3A2@MININTHVRIDDO> Horler?s book has a full page of assembly order. It is on page 189 but my scanner is not working. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From k8djc at zoominternet.net Mon Jan 3 20:03:55 2022 From: k8djc at zoominternet.net (Nelson Wittstock) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 03:03:55 -0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: <1AA1199F-D8B7-483B-A042-CC1A748CE700@chartermi.net> References: <1AA1199F-D8B7-483B-A042-CC1A748CE700@chartermi.net> Message-ID: <3774BA21A23D420BB1C28D949BF333EF@MININTHVRIDDO> Got my scanner to work. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Orderof assembly.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 267287 bytes Desc: not available URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Mon Jan 3 21:11:28 2022 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 04:11:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Order of reassembly References: <1625231575.1328370.1641269488714.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1625231575.1328370.1641269488714@mail.yahoo.com> May I suggest first make the car roll on its wheels.? That means all chassis components and brakes along with all the brake tubing.That makes it able to move around and have the parking/emergency brake functional to hold it in place where ever it needs to be.After that sticking the has tank in and all the wire harness.? ?My only reason for that is the fact that a lot of interior & under hood components go over the spots where the harness runs.? It's very annoying to stick the harness in after any interior is in or the heater and the stuff that goes on the right inner fender / footwell make careful installation a bit difficult for the thicker bundles of wires.?At this point it starts to become a piece by piece reassembly project.Be certain to do all the under hood clutch & brake & fuel plumbing before you entertain installation of the motor & transmission!??After reassembling Frank's race car from what was a rolling shell that needed ALL the suspension & steering removed in order to make it a car again....? Well I had a few things that got in the way of this or that as I wandered through all the little land mines I kept coming across.? ?I should have completely dismantled it and started with a bare shell!ChuckBedn there fixed that...broke it ...fixed it again! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From weslake1330 at gmail.com Thu Jan 6 11:30:01 2022 From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2022 18:30:01 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] One job leads to another Message-ID: Hi List, This is a long story of one job leads to another. In the summer I found the throttle was sticking slightly at low revs on my Sprite. In fact the problem had existed for several months and initially I thought the clutch was slipping on gear changes. The old throttle cable was so rubbish I wondered why I hadn't replaced long ago. Then I remembered that using the Janspeed linkage meant the barrel end of the cable had to be painstakingly filed to a smaller size because I hadn't found an inner that would work. Still not much of an excuse. So I ordered a couple of cables from ebay and one wasn't going to work and the other was a painstakingly file to fit cable. At this point I decided that the Janspeed linkage had more wear in it than I really wanted. I couldn't find a used Janspeed linkage and not for the first time Janspeed told me the linkage was no longer available new and likewise parts. I'll continue the search for another Janspeed linkage, and until I have one won't strip down and consider the re-bushing of my only spare. However, my spare linkage was pressed into service being deemed to have less free play than the one on the car at that time. Yes, I did also look at new linkages of various types but didn't particularly like the like of what I saw and as usual money was tight (the story of my life?). I did replace the screws with new ones I bought in stainless steel or did I do that when I swapped out the cold start device cover? So, some time later the linkage had been swapped and a new inner and outer throttle cable fitted and adjusted, and adjusted, and adjusted and test driven and re-adjusted. At some point I realised I hadn't re-locked the jet inspection cover. They don't have a hole in the ear for lock-wiring from the factory and neither does the Janspeed linkage. It was relatively early in my DCOE ownership that I lost a jet inspection cover and I guess after one of those early jet swaps (idles from memory) I guess I simply didn't pinch it up tight enough. It was probably a decade later before I 'discovered' lock wiring and now lock wire a lot of stuff. I even have ARP s/s bolts EDM ( Electrical Discharge Machining) drilled for lock wiring (not cheap). In a rare moment of genius (I am getting older) I decided instead of drilling the linkage I could drill the corner of the Jet filter cover. A tricky job and I'm guessing the reason I may not have done this previously was because it pre-dated my having a little jig tool I have that easily facilitates that. As I believe I've said before, when posting a photo of the jig in use, it was a gift from Chuck (so thanks again Chuck). Ideally I could have used a new jet filter cover but they are ?10 + postage each and so I didn't bother. The hole drilled ok (new Makita cordless drill is a dream to use (Christmas present to myself, in the sale, with multiple funding sources to make it happen) albeit not perfectly centered on the bolt corner (I was in a rush!). The jet inspection cover itself looked to tatty to use again so I ordered a new one (and one reason why I didn't have ?10 spare for a filter cover). It arrived today complete with a gasket, yes, complete with a gasket. I fitted it, nipped it up tight and then marked with a pencil which ear to drill for the neatest alignment to the jet filter cover (forgot to mention I did mark the jet filter cover before I'd drilled it for the best alignment). Removed the cover with the gasket, yes complete with the gasket. Got the drill out, put a bit in it and hesitated. The drill would skid about or maybe even snap unless I dot-punched the cover ear, so I carefully dot punched the cover ear. The Makita drill was once more a dream to use but I do need to sharpen the bit before using it again. Lovely job, just needs to be re-fitted now. But, WAIT, where is the gasket. In a cold, near freezing garage I begin the long search for the gasket but it could not be found. Order 2 new gaskets on ebay ?3.70. Then remove the gasket from the new DCOE in my wardrobe (yes my new spare DCOE lives in the clothes wardrobe in my bedroom) and use that. The alignment is not quite the same. Still on the second attempt the two covers were successfully wired together to what I'd call an average standard. After cutting the twisted section and bending it over (to prevent cuts and bloodshed on a sharp twisted wire stub) it now looks slightly less than average but ok for now, ok until I stop noticing it. So here ends the story of one job leads to another. Regards Daniel -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DCOE Jet cover - old -LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 157100 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DCOE Jet cover - new - LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 333328 bytes Desc: not available URL: From derf247 at gmail.com Thu Jan 6 11:40:03 2022 From: derf247 at gmail.com (Derf) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2022 12:40:03 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] One job leads to another In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Is the little hole required? [image: image.png] On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 12:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi List, > > This is a long story of one job leads to another. > > In the summer I found the throttle was sticking slightly at low revs on my > Sprite. In fact the problem had existed for several months and initially I > thought the clutch was slipping on gear changes. The old throttle cable > was so rubbish I wondered why I hadn't replaced long ago. Then I > remembered that using the Janspeed linkage meant the barrel end of the > cable had to be painstakingly filed to a smaller size because I hadn't > found an inner that would work. Still not much of an excuse. > > So I ordered a couple of cables from ebay and one wasn't going to work and > the other was a painstakingly file to fit cable. At this point I decided > that the Janspeed linkage had more wear in it than I really wanted. I > couldn't find a used Janspeed linkage and not for the first time Janspeed > told me the linkage was no longer available new and likewise parts. I'll > continue the search for another Janspeed linkage, and until I have one > won't strip down and consider the re-bushing of my only spare. > > However, my spare linkage was pressed into service being deemed to have > less free play than the one on the car at that time. Yes, I did also look > at new linkages of various types but didn't particularly like the like of > what I saw and as usual money was tight (the story of my life?). I did > replace the screws with new ones I bought in stainless steel or did I do > that when I swapped out the cold start device cover? > > So, some time later the linkage had been swapped and a new inner and outer > throttle cable fitted and adjusted, and adjusted, and adjusted and test > driven and re-adjusted. > > At some point I realised I hadn't re-locked the jet inspection cover. > They don't have a hole in the ear for lock-wiring from the factory and > neither does the Janspeed linkage. It was relatively early in my DCOE > ownership that I lost a jet inspection cover and I guess after one of those > early jet swaps (idles from memory) I guess I simply didn't pinch it up > tight enough. It was probably a decade later before I 'discovered' lock > wiring and now lock wire a lot of stuff. I even have ARP s/s bolts EDM ( > Electrical Discharge Machining) drilled for lock wiring (not cheap). > > In a rare moment of genius (I am getting older) I decided instead of > drilling the linkage I could drill the corner of the Jet filter cover. A > tricky job and I'm guessing the reason I may not have done this previously > was because it pre-dated my having a little jig tool I have that easily > facilitates that. As I believe I've said before, when posting a photo of > the jig in use, it was a gift from Chuck (so thanks again Chuck). Ideally > I could have used a new jet filter cover but they are ?10 + postage each > and so I didn't bother. The hole drilled ok (new Makita cordless drill is > a dream to use (Christmas present to myself, in the sale, with multiple > funding sources to make it happen) albeit not perfectly centered on the > bolt corner (I was in a rush!). > > The jet inspection cover itself looked to tatty to use again so I ordered > a new one (and one reason why I didn't have ?10 spare for a filter cover). > It arrived today complete with a gasket, yes, complete with a gasket. I > fitted it, nipped it up tight and then marked with a pencil which ear to > drill for the neatest alignment to the jet filter cover (forgot to mention > I did mark the jet filter cover before I'd drilled it for the best > alignment). Removed the cover with the gasket, yes complete with the > gasket. Got the drill out, put a bit in it and hesitated. The drill would > skid about or maybe even snap unless I dot-punched the cover ear, so I > carefully dot punched the cover ear. The Makita drill was once more a > dream to use but I do need to sharpen the bit before using it again. > Lovely job, just needs to be re-fitted now. > > But, WAIT, where is the gasket. > > In a cold, near freezing garage I begin the long search for the gasket but > it could not be found. Order 2 new gaskets on ebay ?3.70. Then remove the > gasket from the new DCOE in my wardrobe (yes my new spare DCOE lives in the > clothes wardrobe in my bedroom) and use that. > > The alignment is not quite the same. > > Still on the second attempt the two covers were successfully wired > together to what I'd call an average standard. After cutting the twisted > section and bending it over (to prevent cuts and bloodshed on a sharp > twisted wire stub) it now looks slightly less than average but ok for now, > ok until I stop noticing it. > > So here ends the story of one job leads to another. > > Regards > > > Daniel > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1049091 bytes Desc: not available URL: From weslake1330 at gmail.com Thu Jan 6 12:26:39 2022 From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2022 19:26:39 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] One job leads to another In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It wouldn't have been as neat to wrap a loop around it and I like things to be as neat as possible. On Thu, 6 Jan 2022 at 18:40, Derf wrote: > Is the little hole required? > > [image: image.png] > > On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 12:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Hi List, >> >> This is a long story of one job leads to another. >> >> In the summer I found the throttle was sticking slightly at low revs on >> my Sprite. In fact the problem had existed for several months and >> initially I thought the clutch was slipping on gear changes. The old >> throttle cable was so rubbish I wondered why I hadn't replaced long ago. >> Then I remembered that using the Janspeed linkage meant the barrel end of >> the cable had to be painstakingly filed to a smaller size because I hadn't >> found an inner that would work. Still not much of an excuse. >> >> So I ordered a couple of cables from ebay and one wasn't going to work >> and the other was a painstakingly file to fit cable. At this point I >> decided that the Janspeed linkage had more wear in it than I really >> wanted. I couldn't find a used Janspeed linkage and not for the first time >> Janspeed told me the linkage was no longer available new and likewise >> parts. I'll continue the search for another Janspeed linkage, and until I >> have one won't strip down and consider the re-bushing of my only spare. >> >> However, my spare linkage was pressed into service being deemed to have >> less free play than the one on the car at that time. Yes, I did also look >> at new linkages of various types but didn't particularly like the like of >> what I saw and as usual money was tight (the story of my life?). I did >> replace the screws with new ones I bought in stainless steel or did I do >> that when I swapped out the cold start device cover? >> >> So, some time later the linkage had been swapped and a new inner and >> outer throttle cable fitted and adjusted, and adjusted, and adjusted and >> test driven and re-adjusted. >> >> At some point I realised I hadn't re-locked the jet inspection cover. >> They don't have a hole in the ear for lock-wiring from the factory and >> neither does the Janspeed linkage. It was relatively early in my DCOE >> ownership that I lost a jet inspection cover and I guess after one of those >> early jet swaps (idles from memory) I guess I simply didn't pinch it up >> tight enough. It was probably a decade later before I 'discovered' lock >> wiring and now lock wire a lot of stuff. I even have ARP s/s bolts EDM ( >> Electrical Discharge Machining) drilled for lock wiring (not cheap). >> >> In a rare moment of genius (I am getting older) I decided instead of >> drilling the linkage I could drill the corner of the Jet filter cover. A >> tricky job and I'm guessing the reason I may not have done this previously >> was because it pre-dated my having a little jig tool I have that easily >> facilitates that. As I believe I've said before, when posting a photo of >> the jig in use, it was a gift from Chuck (so thanks again Chuck). Ideally >> I could have used a new jet filter cover but they are ?10 + postage each >> and so I didn't bother. The hole drilled ok (new Makita cordless drill is >> a dream to use (Christmas present to myself, in the sale, with multiple >> funding sources to make it happen) albeit not perfectly centered on the >> bolt corner (I was in a rush!). >> >> The jet inspection cover itself looked to tatty to use again so I ordered >> a new one (and one reason why I didn't have ?10 spare for a filter cover). >> It arrived today complete with a gasket, yes, complete with a gasket. I >> fitted it, nipped it up tight and then marked with a pencil which ear to >> drill for the neatest alignment to the jet filter cover (forgot to mention >> I did mark the jet filter cover before I'd drilled it for the best >> alignment). Removed the cover with the gasket, yes complete with the >> gasket. Got the drill out, put a bit in it and hesitated. The drill would >> skid about or maybe even snap unless I dot-punched the cover ear, so I >> carefully dot punched the cover ear. The Makita drill was once more a >> dream to use but I do need to sharpen the bit before using it again. >> Lovely job, just needs to be re-fitted now. >> >> But, WAIT, where is the gasket. >> >> In a cold, near freezing garage I begin the long search for the gasket >> but it could not be found. Order 2 new gaskets on ebay ?3.70. Then remove >> the gasket from the new DCOE in my wardrobe (yes my new spare DCOE lives in >> the clothes wardrobe in my bedroom) and use that. >> >> The alignment is not quite the same. >> >> Still on the second attempt the two covers were successfully wired >> together to what I'd call an average standard. After cutting the twisted >> section and bending it over (to prevent cuts and bloodshed on a sharp >> twisted wire stub) it now looks slightly less than average but ok for now, >> ok until I stop noticing it. >> >> So here ends the story of one job leads to another. >> >> Regards >> >> >> Daniel >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1049091 bytes Desc: not available URL: From derf247 at gmail.com Thu Jan 6 14:42:29 2022 From: derf247 at gmail.com (Derf) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2022 15:42:29 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] One job leads to another In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: 10-4. I've seen some nice safety wire on aircraft. On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 1:26 PM Weslake1330 wrote: > It wouldn't have been as neat to wrap a loop around it and I like things > to be as neat as possible. > > On Thu, 6 Jan 2022 at 18:40, Derf wrote: > >> Is the little hole required? >> >> [image: image.png] >> >> On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 12:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets < >> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> Hi List, >>> >>> This is a long story of one job leads to another. >>> >>> In the summer I found the throttle was sticking slightly at low revs on >>> my Sprite. In fact the problem had existed for several months and >>> initially I thought the clutch was slipping on gear changes. The old >>> throttle cable was so rubbish I wondered why I hadn't replaced long ago. >>> Then I remembered that using the Janspeed linkage meant the barrel end of >>> the cable had to be painstakingly filed to a smaller size because I hadn't >>> found an inner that would work. Still not much of an excuse. >>> >>> So I ordered a couple of cables from ebay and one wasn't going to work >>> and the other was a painstakingly file to fit cable. At this point I >>> decided that the Janspeed linkage had more wear in it than I really >>> wanted. I couldn't find a used Janspeed linkage and not for the first time >>> Janspeed told me the linkage was no longer available new and likewise >>> parts. I'll continue the search for another Janspeed linkage, and until I >>> have one won't strip down and consider the re-bushing of my only spare. >>> >>> However, my spare linkage was pressed into service being deemed to have >>> less free play than the one on the car at that time. Yes, I did also look >>> at new linkages of various types but didn't particularly like the like of >>> what I saw and as usual money was tight (the story of my life?). I did >>> replace the screws with new ones I bought in stainless steel or did I do >>> that when I swapped out the cold start device cover? >>> >>> So, some time later the linkage had been swapped and a new inner and >>> outer throttle cable fitted and adjusted, and adjusted, and adjusted and >>> test driven and re-adjusted. >>> >>> At some point I realised I hadn't re-locked the jet inspection cover. >>> They don't have a hole in the ear for lock-wiring from the factory and >>> neither does the Janspeed linkage. It was relatively early in my DCOE >>> ownership that I lost a jet inspection cover and I guess after one of those >>> early jet swaps (idles from memory) I guess I simply didn't pinch it up >>> tight enough. It was probably a decade later before I 'discovered' lock >>> wiring and now lock wire a lot of stuff. I even have ARP s/s bolts EDM ( >>> Electrical Discharge Machining) drilled for lock wiring (not cheap). >>> >>> In a rare moment of genius (I am getting older) I decided instead of >>> drilling the linkage I could drill the corner of the Jet filter cover. A >>> tricky job and I'm guessing the reason I may not have done this previously >>> was because it pre-dated my having a little jig tool I have that easily >>> facilitates that. As I believe I've said before, when posting a photo of >>> the jig in use, it was a gift from Chuck (so thanks again Chuck). Ideally >>> I could have used a new jet filter cover but they are ?10 + postage each >>> and so I didn't bother. The hole drilled ok (new Makita cordless drill is >>> a dream to use (Christmas present to myself, in the sale, with multiple >>> funding sources to make it happen) albeit not perfectly centered on the >>> bolt corner (I was in a rush!). >>> >>> The jet inspection cover itself looked to tatty to use again so I >>> ordered a new one (and one reason why I didn't have ?10 spare for a filter >>> cover). It arrived today complete with a gasket, yes, complete with a >>> gasket. I fitted it, nipped it up tight and then marked with a pencil >>> which ear to drill for the neatest alignment to the jet filter cover >>> (forgot to mention I did mark the jet filter cover before I'd drilled it >>> for the best alignment). Removed the cover with the gasket, yes complete >>> with the gasket. Got the drill out, put a bit in it and hesitated. The >>> drill would skid about or maybe even snap unless I dot-punched the cover >>> ear, so I carefully dot punched the cover ear. The Makita drill was once >>> more a dream to use but I do need to sharpen the bit before using it >>> again. Lovely job, just needs to be re-fitted now. >>> >>> But, WAIT, where is the gasket. >>> >>> In a cold, near freezing garage I begin the long search for the gasket >>> but it could not be found. Order 2 new gaskets on ebay ?3.70. Then remove >>> the gasket from the new DCOE in my wardrobe (yes my new spare DCOE lives in >>> the clothes wardrobe in my bedroom) and use that. >>> >>> The alignment is not quite the same. >>> >>> Still on the second attempt the two covers were successfully wired >>> together to what I'd call an average standard. After cutting the twisted >>> section and bending it over (to prevent cuts and bloodshed on a sharp >>> twisted wire stub) it now looks slightly less than average but ok for now, >>> ok until I stop noticing it. >>> >>> So here ends the story of one job leads to another. >>> >>> Regards >>> >>> >>> Daniel >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1049091 bytes Desc: not available URL: From pvanwig at mac.com Thu Jan 6 15:18:13 2022 From: pvanwig at mac.com (Paul Van Wig) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2022 14:18:13 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] One job leads to another In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have something like this on mine https://www.ebay.com/itm/292965424799?hash=item4436199e9f:g:vYMAAOSwm-Bc~1-r Paul Van Wig Big Bear/Lakewood, CA [image: Mailtrack] Sender notified by Mailtrack 01/06/22, 02:18:02 PM On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 1:44 PM Derf via Spridgets wrote: > 10-4. > I've seen some nice safety wire on aircraft. > > > On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 1:26 PM Weslake1330 wrote: > >> It wouldn't have been as neat to wrap a loop around it and I like things >> to be as neat as possible. >> >> On Thu, 6 Jan 2022 at 18:40, Derf wrote: >> >>> Is the little hole required? >>> >>> [image: image.png] >>> >>> On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 12:31 PM Weslake1330 via Spridgets < >>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>>> Hi List, >>>> >>>> This is a long story of one job leads to another. >>>> >>>> In the summer I found the throttle was sticking slightly at low revs on >>>> my Sprite. In fact the problem had existed for several months and >>>> initially I thought the clutch was slipping on gear changes. The old >>>> throttle cable was so rubbish I wondered why I hadn't replaced long ago. >>>> Then I remembered that using the Janspeed linkage meant the barrel end of >>>> the cable had to be painstakingly filed to a smaller size because I hadn't >>>> found an inner that would work. Still not much of an excuse. >>>> >>>> So I ordered a couple of cables from ebay and one wasn't going to work >>>> and the other was a painstakingly file to fit cable. At this point I >>>> decided that the Janspeed linkage had more wear in it than I really >>>> wanted. I couldn't find a used Janspeed linkage and not for the first time >>>> Janspeed told me the linkage was no longer available new and likewise >>>> parts. I'll continue the search for another Janspeed linkage, and until I >>>> have one won't strip down and consider the re-bushing of my only spare. >>>> >>>> However, my spare linkage was pressed into service being deemed to have >>>> less free play than the one on the car at that time. Yes, I did also look >>>> at new linkages of various types but didn't particularly like the like of >>>> what I saw and as usual money was tight (the story of my life?). I did >>>> replace the screws with new ones I bought in stainless steel or did I do >>>> that when I swapped out the cold start device cover? >>>> >>>> So, some time later the linkage had been swapped and a new inner and >>>> outer throttle cable fitted and adjusted, and adjusted, and adjusted and >>>> test driven and re-adjusted. >>>> >>>> At some point I realised I hadn't re-locked the jet inspection cover. >>>> They don't have a hole in the ear for lock-wiring from the factory and >>>> neither does the Janspeed linkage. It was relatively early in my DCOE >>>> ownership that I lost a jet inspection cover and I guess after one of those >>>> early jet swaps (idles from memory) I guess I simply didn't pinch it up >>>> tight enough. It was probably a decade later before I 'discovered' lock >>>> wiring and now lock wire a lot of stuff. I even have ARP s/s bolts EDM ( >>>> Electrical Discharge Machining) drilled for lock wiring (not cheap). >>>> >>>> In a rare moment of genius (I am getting older) I decided instead of >>>> drilling the linkage I could drill the corner of the Jet filter cover. A >>>> tricky job and I'm guessing the reason I may not have done this previously >>>> was because it pre-dated my having a little jig tool I have that easily >>>> facilitates that. As I believe I've said before, when posting a photo of >>>> the jig in use, it was a gift from Chuck (so thanks again Chuck). Ideally >>>> I could have used a new jet filter cover but they are ?10 + postage each >>>> and so I didn't bother. The hole drilled ok (new Makita cordless drill is >>>> a dream to use (Christmas present to myself, in the sale, with multiple >>>> funding sources to make it happen) albeit not perfectly centered on the >>>> bolt corner (I was in a rush!). >>>> >>>> The jet inspection cover itself looked to tatty to use again so I >>>> ordered a new one (and one reason why I didn't have ?10 spare for a filter >>>> cover). It arrived today complete with a gasket, yes, complete with a >>>> gasket. I fitted it, nipped it up tight and then marked with a pencil >>>> which ear to drill for the neatest alignment to the jet filter cover >>>> (forgot to mention I did mark the jet filter cover before I'd drilled it >>>> for the best alignment). Removed the cover with the gasket, yes complete >>>> with the gasket. Got the drill out, put a bit in it and hesitated. The >>>> drill would skid about or maybe even snap unless I dot-punched the cover >>>> ear, so I carefully dot punched the cover ear. The Makita drill was once >>>> more a dream to use but I do need to sharpen the bit before using it >>>> again. Lovely job, just needs to be re-fitted now. >>>> >>>> But, WAIT, where is the gasket. >>>> >>>> In a cold, near freezing garage I begin the long search for the gasket >>>> but it could not be found. Order 2 new gaskets on ebay ?3.70. Then remove >>>> the gasket from the new DCOE in my wardrobe (yes my new spare DCOE lives in >>>> the clothes wardrobe in my bedroom) and use that. >>>> >>>> The alignment is not quite the same. >>>> >>>> Still on the second attempt the two covers were successfully wired >>>> together to what I'd call an average standard. After cutting the twisted >>>> section and bending it over (to prevent cuts and bloodshed on a sharp >>>> twisted wire stub) it now looks slightly less than average but ok for now, >>>> ok until I stop noticing it. >>>> >>>> So here ends the story of one job leads to another. >>>> >>>> Regards >>>> >>>> >>>> Daniel >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com >>>> >>> ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/pvanwig at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1049091 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dtwoerpel at gmail.com Fri Jan 7 11:34:35 2022 From: dtwoerpel at gmail.com (David Woerpel) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 12:34:35 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] Wheel Types Message-ID: <73ea23f4-dc06-96ef-ecf5-4d7ac4a71972@gmail.com> Listers, There was a previous thread regarding the various wheels for our early Sprite and Midgets. While avoiding all the projects that need doing, I decided to research the topic further.Between various sources and data from Terry Horler,/Original Sprite and Midgets/, I put the following together.*If anyone can add to or correct the data please do*.I?m particularly interested in the middle type of wheel having the short ribs but spot-welded center section which I believe to be the type for my car. Sent as an attachment for format considerations. As a result of this I find myself with a plethora of wheels and need to winnow the stock. Anyone wanting a wheel or wheels they are yours for the shipping. Some may need a bit of straightening.I can send photos.? If any questions, P.M. me.? If no takers all wheels go to the re-cycle place and I hate doing that. Sigh, back to the aforementioned avoided projects. Be well friends, Dave W. '59 :{) '59 MGA 1500 Burlington WI? -18*C....0* sounds warmer doesn't it?? ;-) "Pay It Forward" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: SPRITE MIDGET WHEELS.docx Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.wordprocessingml.document Size: 16531 bytes Desc: not available URL: From stanbmason at aol.com Mon Jan 10 11:44:32 2022 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2022 18:44:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] 1275 Engine and gearbox In-Reply-To: <21FE08347C2A48A692BE4942D4333CF0@DESKTOPKD5GI32> References: <21FE08347C2A48A692BE4942D4333CF0@DESKTOPKD5GI32> Message-ID: <1738496399.2819033.1641840272124@mail.yahoo.com> Passing along some Midget Parts that Clancy has.? Please contact Clancy at sunflower.com if interested. -----Original Message----- From: Clancy To: Stan Mason Sent: Sat, Jan 8, 2022 11:33 am Subject: 1275 Engine and gearbox Stan,?I just bought a derelict 72 Midget.? The tub and most of the car is not savable.? But it is all there.? Would you spread the word.?1275 Engine core for sale:? $500Rib case gearbox core for sale:? $250?The pair for $700 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stanbmason at aol.com Mon Jan 10 11:45:51 2022 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2022 18:45:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Fwd: 1275 Engine and gearbox In-Reply-To: <1738496399.2819033.1641840272124@mail.yahoo.com> References: <21FE08347C2A48A692BE4942D4333CF0@DESKTOPKD5GI32> <1738496399.2819033.1641840272124@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1477486329.2823255.1641840351805@mail.yahoo.com> Passing along some Midget Parts that Clancy has.? Please contact Clancy at sunflower.com if interested. -----Original Message----- From: Clancy To: Stan Mason Sent: Sat, Jan 8, 2022 11:33 am Subject: 1275 Engine and gearbox Stan,?I just bought a derelict 72 Midget.? The tub and most of the car is not savable.? But it is all there.? Would you spread the word.?1275 Engine core for sale:? $500Rib case gearbox core for sale:? $250?The pair for $700 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Wed Jan 12 17:36:23 2022 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2022 00:36:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Main cap bolt spacing? References: <1579591423.120557.1642034183472.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1579591423.120557.1642034183472@mail.yahoo.com> I have a 948 sitting with the caps exposed.? I do not have a 1275 that I can access to accurately measure.Are the main cap bolt holes spacing the same distance apart for a 948 and a 1275???Yes I know the bearing journals are diffrent.Anyone?ChuckKinda need to know before Thursday morning?? Project coming up... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Thu Jan 13 21:47:00 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2022 20:47:00 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Top Bow Leather Strap Message-ID: Does anyone know where to get the little leather strap that hangs from the slot in the frame just behind the rear cockpit rail. This strap is used to hold the top bows from rattling when being stowed behind the seats. Maybe someone knows a substitute they have used. This strap of course is used for the Bugeye top bows. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Fri Jan 14 06:32:31 2022 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 08:32:31 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Top Bow Leather Strap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Mike, Look at small leather dog or cat collars. Rick Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Thu, Jan 13, 2022 at 11:47 PM Michael MacLean via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Does anyone know where to get the little leather strap that hangs from the > slot in the frame just behind the rear cockpit rail. This strap is used to > hold the top bows from rattling when being stowed behind the seats. Maybe > someone knows a substitute they have used. > This strap of course is used for the Bugeye top bows. > Mike MacLean > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/healeyrik at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at cox.net Fri Jan 14 09:41:42 2022 From: frogeye at cox.net (Alan Fisher) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 11:41:42 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Thin replacement straps Message-ID: <959A1DF4-CA36-40EF-8301-23336E33C825@cox.net> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1113.PNG Type: image/png Size: 914241 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPad From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Fri Jan 14 10:30:43 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 09:30:43 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Top Bow Leather Strap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have to go to the market today anyway. I'll check for small dog/cat collars. If not, Petsmart is less than a mile away. Thanks guys. Mike M On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 5:32 AM HealeyRick wrote: > Hi Mike, > > Look at small leather dog or cat collars. > > Rick > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-4194916550107204984_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Thu, Jan 13, 2022 at 11:47 PM Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Does anyone know where to get the little leather strap that hangs from >> the slot in the frame just behind the rear cockpit rail. This strap is >> used to hold the top bows from rattling when being stowed behind the >> seats. Maybe someone knows a substitute they have used. >> This strap of course is used for the Bugeye top bows. >> Mike MacLean >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/healeyrik at gmail.com >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Fri Jan 14 18:16:51 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 17:16:51 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Horn Brush Message-ID: Is the Bugeye horn brush different than later Sprites/Midgets? The horn brush I got from Moss seems to be too long for a stock steering wheel on the Bugeye. I had a Moto Lita steering wheel on the car and the horn brush that was in it is the same as the new Moss brush in length. It worked OK. When I refit the original wheel to the car I could not get the horn push to seat all the way in the center of the steering wheel. The horn brush was fully compressed and the horn push would not seat all the way right at the horn brush location. I ran this car for at least ten years with the original restored steering wheel with no problem. I can't remember what horn brush was in it then. The Moss horn brush is below. It is about 2 1/4" long. Am I missing something here? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Fri Jan 14 18:18:08 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 17:18:08 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Horn Brush Message-ID: Oops. Here's the photo I forgot to send. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20220114_171641.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 7154147 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dtwoerpel at gmail.com Fri Jan 14 20:58:35 2022 From: dtwoerpel at gmail.com (Dave and Terri Woerpel) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 21:58:35 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] Horn Brush In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike, I had the same problem. The later brushes are apparently longer. Fortunately I had the original, albeit, in 2 pieces. I cut the new, rounded the edges and it works fine with the original steering wheel. I can send you the length tomorrow (Saturday). Be well, Dave W. Burlington WI '59 :() '59 MGA 1500 "Pay It Forward" On Fri, Jan 14, 2022, 7:28 PM Michael MacLean via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Oops. Here's the photo I forgot to send. > > Mike MacLean > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/dtwoerpel at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Sat Jan 15 21:21:42 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2022 20:21:42 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed Message-ID: The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sat Jan 15 22:20:24 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 00:20:24 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net> Hi Mike, Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. Rick > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? > Mike MacLean > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Sun Jan 16 01:48:56 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 00:48:56 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net> References: <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net> Message-ID: You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. Mike On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > Hi Mike, > > Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are > adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often > will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. > > Rick > > > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > > ? > > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently > swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" > sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to > actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the > car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down > aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't > understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts > like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? > > Mike MacLean > > ------------------------ > > > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From weslake1330 at gmail.com Sun Jan 16 02:22:00 2022 From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 09:22:00 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: References: <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net> Message-ID: Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well. If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak. Regards Daniel On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. > The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the > Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity > you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will > try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. > Mike > > On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > >> Hi Mike, >> >> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums >> are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite >> often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. >> >> Rick >> >> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >> > >> > ? >> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently >> swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" >> sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to >> actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the >> car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down >> aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't >> understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts >> like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? >> > Mike MacLean >> > ------------------------ >> > >> > spridgets at autox.team.net >> > >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >> >> ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ron.corry.iol at gmail.com Sun Jan 16 03:27:47 2022 From: ron.corry.iol at gmail.com (Ron Corry) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 10:27:47 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net> References: <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net> Message-ID: I read on his website that Bugeyeguy has stayed with 7/8" brake masters when fitting front discs and that he sees no need for a change to 3/4". I changed to 3/4" a tandem master when I fitted front discs and Datsun 5Sp., but when I later fitted rear discs, the initial 'bite' on the pedal went way down. If I pull up the H/brake when (foot) braking, the 'bite' point comes right up again. So, I now have a new 7/8" Master on the bench ready to fit, along with a remote Servo. Will report on progress in time. Yes, I know our cars don't need rear discs; it has been a fun (read Vanity) project for me, that also eliminates all that trouble dealing with leaking wheel cylinders and adjusting shoes. However, I will not negatively comment if your choice is to keep rear drums. On Sun 16 Jan 2022, 05:20 Rick Fisk via Spridgets, wrote: > Hi Mike, > > Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are > adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often > will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. > > Rick > > > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > > ? > > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently > swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" > sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to > actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the > car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down > aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't > understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts > like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? > > Mike MacLean > > ------------------------ > > > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/ron.corry.iol at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at cox.net Sun Jan 16 13:30:50 2022 From: frogeye at cox.net (Alan Fisher) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 15:30:50 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Any lister near the Baltimore area? Message-ID: Please contact me via email Thanks Alan Sent from my iPad From weslake1330 at gmail.com Sun Jan 16 14:31:55 2022 From: weslake1330 at gmail.com (Weslake1330) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 21:31:55 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: <1fdeb17b.27246.17e6264a120.Webtop.106@btinternet.com> References: <072CC605-B0D4-49C1-867B-C9C3C937E4A8@chartermi.net> <1fdeb17b.27246.17e6264a120.Webtop.106@btinternet.com> Message-ID: I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn! Ok. I guess hard is a relative term. Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up? On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY wrote: > Sorry Wes, > > I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. If the pedal > pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the > system.. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in > the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel > 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid > system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it. > > > Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the > brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm > but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a > seal leak in the m/cyl). > > > > Stay well, > > > Guy R Day > > > > ------ Original Message ------ > From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" > To: "Michael MacLean" > Cc: "Spridgets" > Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22 > Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed > > Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to > the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving > the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. > On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and > re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive > amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed > nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well. > > If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in > the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something > isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak. > > Regards > > > Daniel > > On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The >> old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the >> Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you >> can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to >> wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. >> Mike >> >> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >> >>> Hi Mike, >>> >>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums >>> are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite >>> often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. >>> >>> Rick >>> >>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> > >>> > ? >>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently >>> swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" >>> sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to >>> actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the >>> car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down >>> aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't >>> understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts >>> like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? >>> > Mike MacLean >>> > ------------------------ >>> > >>> > spridgets at autox.team.net >>> > >>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> > >>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> > >>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>> >>> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com >> > ------------------------------ > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grday at btinternet.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jan 16 14:46:12 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 16:46:12 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <455D6158-6796-4484-BDAF-B28AEE93427D@chartermi.net> In my experience the usual cause is rear brakes not adjusted tight enough. The first press of the pedal moves the shoes away from their resting position, but not all the way to the drum. A quick second press of the pedal moves them even further. A quick third press of the pedal may put the shoes in contact with the drum and the pedal feels hard. Release the pedal and the shoes move all the way back to their initial resting position and you start all over again when you want to use the brakes. No air in the system and the pedal feels great once you get the shoes all the way out to the drum. Rick > On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn! Ok. I guess hard is a relative term. Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up? > >> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY wrote: >> Sorry Wes, >> I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system.. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it. >> >> >> >> Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a seal leak in the m/cyl). >> >> >> >> >> Stay well, >> >> >> >> Guy R Day >> >> >> >> ------ Original Message ------ >> From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" >> To: "Michael MacLean" >> Cc: "Spridgets" >> Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22 >> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed >> >> Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well. >> >> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak. >> >> Regards >> >> >> Daniel >> >>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. >>> Mike >>> >>>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>>> Hi Mike, >>>> >>>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. >>>> >>>> Rick >>>> >>>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>> > >>>> > ? >>>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? >>>> > Mike MacLean >>>> > ------------------------ >>>> > >>>> > spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> > >>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> > >>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> > >>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>>> >>>> >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com >>> >> >> ------------------------ >> >> >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grday at btinternet.com >> > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jan 16 14:48:07 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 16:48:07 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: <455D6158-6796-4484-BDAF-B28AEE93427D@chartermi.net> References: <455D6158-6796-4484-BDAF-B28AEE93427D@chartermi.net> Message-ID: <270E6034-ECCB-49D6-B49A-D3B800B1270E@chartermi.net> Daniel - think hoses. ? > On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:46 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: > > ? > In my experience the usual cause is rear brakes not adjusted tight enough. The first press of the pedal moves the shoes away from their resting position, but not all the way to the drum. A quick second press of the pedal moves them even further. A quick third press of the pedal may put the shoes in contact with the drum and the pedal feels hard. Release the pedal and the shoes move all the way back to their initial resting position and you start all over again when you want to use the brakes. No air in the system and the pedal feels great once you get the shoes all the way out to the drum. > > Rick > >>> On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets wrote: >>> >> ? >> I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn! Ok. I guess hard is a relative term. Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up? >> >>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY wrote: >>> Sorry Wes, >>> I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system.. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it. >>> >>> >>> >>> Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a seal leak in the m/cyl). >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Stay well, >>> >>> >>> >>> Guy R Day >>> >>> >>> >>> ------ Original Message ------ >>> From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" >>> To: "Michael MacLean" >>> Cc: "Spridgets" >>> Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22 >>> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed >>> >>> Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well. >>> >>> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak. >>> >>> Regards >>> >>> >>> Daniel >>> >>>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. >>>> Mike >>>> >>>>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>>>> Hi Mike, >>>>> >>>>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. >>>>> >>>>> Rick >>>>> >>>>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>>> > >>>>> > ? >>>>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? >>>>> > Mike MacLean >>>>> > ------------------------ >>>>> > >>>>> > spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>> > >>>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>> > >>>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> > >>>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com >>>> >>> >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grday at btinternet.com >>> >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Sun Jan 16 15:14:38 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 14:14:38 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: <270E6034-ECCB-49D6-B49A-D3B800B1270E@chartermi.net> References: <455D6158-6796-4484-BDAF-B28AEE93427D@chartermi.net> <270E6034-ECCB-49D6-B49A-D3B800B1270E@chartermi.net> Message-ID: New stainless steel braided hoses on the calipers. Same old 20 year old hose in the rear. Something to think about I guess. Mike M On Sun, Jan 16, 2022, 1:48 PM Rick Fisk via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Daniel - think hoses. ? > > On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:46 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: > > ? > In my experience the usual cause is rear brakes not adjusted tight > enough. The first press of the pedal moves the shoes away from their > resting position, but not all the way to the drum. A quick second press > of the pedal moves them even further. A quick third press of the pedal may > put the shoes in contact with the drum and the pedal feels hard. Release > the pedal and the shoes move all the way back to their initial resting > position and you start all over again when you want to use the brakes. No > air in the system and the pedal feels great once you get the shoes all the > way out to the drum. > > Rick > > On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn! > Ok. I guess hard is a relative term. Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no > air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up? > > On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY wrote: > >> Sorry Wes, >> >> I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. If the pedal >> pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the >> system.. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in >> the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel >> 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid >> system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it. >> >> >> Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the >> brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm >> but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a >> seal leak in the m/cyl). >> >> >> >> Stay well, >> >> >> Guy R Day >> >> >> >> ------ Original Message ------ >> From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" >> To: "Michael MacLean" >> Cc: "Spridgets" >> Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22 >> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed >> >> Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to >> the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving >> the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. >> On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and >> re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive >> amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed >> nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well. >> >> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air >> in the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - >> something isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of >> leak. >> >> Regards >> >> >> Daniel >> >> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. >>> The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the >>> Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you >>> can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to >>> wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. >>> Mike >>> >>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>> >>>> Hi Mike, >>>> >>>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums >>>> are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite >>>> often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. >>>> >>>> Rick >>>> >>>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >>>> > >>>> > ? >>>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently >>>> swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" >>>> sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to >>>> actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the >>>> car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down >>>> aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't >>>> understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts >>>> like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? >>>> > Mike MacLean >>>> > ------------------------ >>>> > >>>> > spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> > >>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> > >>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> > >>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>>> >>>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com >>> >> ------------------------------ >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grday at btinternet.com >> >> ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Sun Jan 16 16:47:45 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 18:47:45 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7AD8605B-00BE-4EA7-9D81-94AFCA3AA0C2@chartermi.net> Sorry Mike, when I mentioned hoses I was giving Daniel a little prod. Last year he mentioned getting another run of silicone radiator hoses made up and I could use another set. The people that make them have had issues with the virus and running a little behind. Rick > On Jan 16, 2022, at 5:14 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > New stainless steel braided hoses on the calipers. Same old 20 year old hose in the rear. Something to think about I guess. > Mike M > >> On Sun, Jan 16, 2022, 1:48 PM Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote: >> Daniel - think hoses. ? >> >>>> On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:46 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: >>>> >>> ? >>> In my experience the usual cause is rear brakes not adjusted tight enough. The first press of the pedal moves the shoes away from their resting position, but not all the way to the drum. A quick second press of the pedal moves them even further. A quick third press of the pedal may put the shoes in contact with the drum and the pedal feels hard. Release the pedal and the shoes move all the way back to their initial resting position and you start all over again when you want to use the brakes. No air in the system and the pedal feels great once you get the shoes all the way out to the drum. >>> >>> Rick >>> >>>>> On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets wrote: >>>>> >>>> ? >>>> I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn! Ok. I guess hard is a relative term. Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up? >>>> >>>>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY wrote: >>>>> Sorry Wes, >>>>> I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system.. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a seal leak in the m/cyl). >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Stay well, >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Guy R Day >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> ------ Original Message ------ >>>>> From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" >>>>> To: "Michael MacLean" >>>>> Cc: "Spridgets" >>>>> Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22 >>>>> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed >>>>> >>>>> Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well. >>>>> >>>>> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak. >>>>> >>>>> Regards >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Daniel >>>>> >>>>>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>>>> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. >>>>>> Mike >>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>>>>>> Hi Mike, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Rick >>>>>>> >>>>>>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > ? >>>>>>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? >>>>>>> > Mike MacLean >>>>>>> > ------------------------ >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> ------------------------ >>>>>> >>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>>> >>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>> >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> ------------------------ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> >>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grday at btinternet.com >>>>> >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From daredelvis at gmail.com Sun Jan 16 16:48:02 2022 From: daredelvis at gmail.com (daredelvis at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 15:48:02 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed In-Reply-To: <455D6158-6796-4484-BDAF-B28AEE93427D@chartermi.net> References: <455D6158-6796-4484-BDAF-B28AEE93427D@chartermi.net> Message-ID: <168F26B5-9C57-4DDF-B556-BEB2A1D99E55@gmail.com> I agree with Rick. The rears have to be adjusted for the system to work well. You need to adjust them so there is a little drag, drive it a little with some hard stops, and adjust it again. Brian > On Jan 16, 2022, at 1:46 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > In my experience the usual cause is rear brakes not adjusted tight enough. The first press of the pedal moves the shoes away from their resting position, but not all the way to the drum. A quick second press of the pedal moves them even further. A quick third press of the pedal may put the shoes in contact with the drum and the pedal feels hard. Release the pedal and the shoes move all the way back to their initial resting position and you start all over again when you want to use the brakes. No air in the system and the pedal feels great once you get the shoes all the way out to the drum. > > Rick > >>> On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets wrote: >>> >> ? >> I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn! Ok. I guess hard is a relative term. Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up? >> >>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY wrote: >>> Sorry Wes, >>> I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system.. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it. >>> >>> >>> >>> Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a seal leak in the m/cyl). >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Stay well, >>> >>> >>> >>> Guy R Day >>> >>> >>> >>> ------ Original Message ------ >>> From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" >>> To: "Michael MacLean" >>> Cc: "Spridgets" >>> Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22 >>> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed >>> >>> Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well. >>> >>> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak. >>> >>> Regards >>> >>> >>> Daniel >>> >>>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps. >>>> Mike >>>> >>>>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>>>> Hi Mike, >>>>> >>>>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm. >>>>> >>>>> Rick >>>>> >>>>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>>> > >>>>> > ? >>>>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas? >>>>> > Mike MacLean >>>>> > ------------------------ >>>>> > >>>>> > spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>> > >>>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>> > >>>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> > >>>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/weslake1330 at gmail.com >>>> >>> >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/grday at btinternet.com >>> >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/daredelvis at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bertshirey at zoominternet.net Tue Jan 18 06:23:17 2022 From: bertshirey at zoominternet.net (Bert Shirey) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 08:23:17 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed Message-ID: It?s been awhile since I contributed, but maybe this will help, Mike: Get some of those hose pinchers from Harbor Freight or wherever. Pinch off the flex hoses one by one. That will isolate the problem. Don?t squeeze the hose too hard, just enough to cut off the pressure. When you get a pedal, you got the suspect wheel cylinder or caliper. We had that problem with my buddies MGA. It was a defective after market front cylinder was guilty. Good luck, Bert Shirey. My Mark II Midget has been down Two years with air in the clutch system. I replaced the MC, the my back went crap, and there she sits. Who was it said getting old ain?t for sissy?s? Cheers. Sent from my iPad From bertshirey at zoominternet.net Tue Jan 18 11:37:34 2022 From: bertshirey at zoominternet.net (Bert Shirey) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 13:37:34 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. Message-ID: <64408540-9717-43F0-BCA9-BCDCEA11EF94@zoominternet.net> Mike, This is probably apparent, but if the hose pinching doesn?t, work, the MC is likely the culprit. Don,t bet a new or rebuilt one is ok. On that A project we sent the old MC off to have it re sleeved and rebuilt. We should have inspected it before putting it in, but didn?t do that. After putting everything back together, we found that the MC had the incorrect internal parts. Bert Shirey. Sent from my iPad From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Tue Jan 18 12:40:58 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 11:40:58 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. In-Reply-To: <64408540-9717-43F0-BCA9-BCDCEA11EF94@zoominternet.net> References: <64408540-9717-43F0-BCA9-BCDCEA11EF94@zoominternet.net> Message-ID: It's a new AP Lockheed master. Mike On Tue, Jan 18, 2022, 10:38 AM Bert Shirey via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Mike, This is probably apparent, but if the hose pinching doesn?t, work, > the MC is likely the culprit. Don,t bet a new or rebuilt one is ok. On that > A project we sent the old MC off to have it re sleeved and rebuilt. We > should have inspected it before putting it in, but didn?t do that. After > putting everything back together, we found that the MC had the incorrect > internal parts. Bert Shirey. > > Sent from my iPad > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Tue Jan 18 13:35:55 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 15:35:55 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Mike, Do you have the proper clearance on the master pushrod at rest? Rick > On Jan 18, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > It's a new AP Lockheed master. > Mike > >> On Tue, Jan 18, 2022, 10:38 AM Bert Shirey via Spridgets wrote: >> Mike, This is probably apparent, but if the hose pinching doesn?t, work, the MC is likely the culprit. Don,t bet a new or rebuilt one is ok. On that A project we sent the old MC off to have it re sleeved and rebuilt. We should have inspected it before putting it in, but didn?t do that. After putting everything back together, we found that the MC had the incorrect internal parts. Bert Shirey. >> >> Sent from my iPad >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Tue Jan 18 13:53:33 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 15:53:33 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7D43DA30-4806-452B-80B4-D6B1C36A8920@chartermi.net> Should have asked this before, but did you change pushrods when you changed masters? > On Jan 18, 2022, at 3:41 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: > > ? > Hi Mike, > > Do you have the proper clearance on the master pushrod at rest? > > Rick > >>> On Jan 18, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>> >> ? >> It's a new AP Lockheed master. >> Mike From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Tue Jan 18 15:48:14 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 14:48:14 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. In-Reply-To: <7D43DA30-4806-452B-80B4-D6B1C36A8920@chartermi.net> References: <7D43DA30-4806-452B-80B4-D6B1C36A8920@chartermi.net> Message-ID: Clearance on master pushrod correct. Mike On Tue, Jan 18, 2022, 12:53 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > Should have asked this before, but did you change pushrods when you > changed masters? > > > On Jan 18, 2022, at 3:41 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: > > > > ? > > Hi Mike, > > > > Do you have the proper clearance on the master pushrod at rest? > > > > Rick > > > >>> On Jan 18, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > >>> > >> ? > >> It's a new AP Lockheed master. > >> Mike > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Tue Jan 18 14:16:34 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 13:16:34 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch Problems Message-ID: Since I did a Datsun transmission swap to my 1275 powered Bugeye I have always had a terrible clutch. The conversion kit is from Paul A before he passed so you can get an idea of how long I have been living with this clutch. Per Paul I used a Datsun clutch with a re-machined 1275 flywheel and th eoriginal 948 drum brake slave cylinder. I was assured this would all work out by paul. Well, it worked, but the the clutch pedal went from a normal pressure and travel with my 948 and smooth case trans setup to a nightmarishly hard clutch that had to be depressed all the way to the floor and grabbed immediately when it was brought up resulting in all the clutch action happening in the first few inches of travel back up from the floor. It essentially acted more like an on and off switch than a clutch. To facilitate this arrangement I had a combination master cylinder using the brake bore of the original 7/8" for the 4 drum brakes I retained in the car and a 3/4" re-sleeve on the clutch side for the Datsun clutch. I thought I was stuck with this arrangement. As some of you guys know, I have just got around to converting the front brakes to disc. As part of this conversion I bought an AP Lockheed 3/4" double bore master cylinder. This made no difference to the clutch effort as the clutch bore did not change. I don't know why, but I came to the conclusion that a 1275 slave cylinder would be better for the clutch pedal effort as I now had a 1275 in the car. As I look back on that thinking, it is rather flawed. Yes, I had a 1275 in the Bugeye, but I had a Datsun transmission and a Datsun clutch in the car. Wouldn't that require a Datsun slave cylinder? Well, out of my ignorance I had the 1275 1" bore slave cylinder installed in the car with a slightly longer slave pushrod and bled the clutch with a pressure bleeder. Holy crap! The clutch pedal is now to an almost normal amount of actuating pressure and the engagement travel is more like a normal clutch. I am one happy camper! Just wanted to pass this along if any of you guys with a similar setup is experiencing the same "on/off" switch syndrome with your Datsun trans conversion. Mike MacLean P.S. Just in time for spring and summer! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From oldsaabguy at comcast.net Thu Jan 20 07:08:45 2022 From: oldsaabguy at comcast.net (JMFangio) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2022 08:08:45 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch Problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <81C43FA4-8896-4A36-8B37-C8DCC98ED4BE@comcast.net> That?s a problem I too have been dealing with, right down to the description of the clutch working like a light switch! Thanks Hmm, do you think that it was the slightly longer push rod or the slave cylinder?? Lester > On Jan 18, 2022, at 3:16 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: > > Since I did a Datsun transmission swap to my 1275 powered Bugeye I have always had a terrible clutch. The conversion kit is from Paul A before he passed so you can get an idea of how long I have been living with this clutch. Per Paul I used a Datsun clutch with a re-machined 1275 flywheel and th eoriginal 948 drum brake slave cylinder. I was assured this would all work out by paul. Well, it worked, but the the clutch pedal went from a normal pressure and travel with my 948 and smooth case trans setup to a nightmarishly hard clutch that had to be depressed all the way to the floor and grabbed immediately when it was brought up resulting in all the clutch action happening in the first few inches of travel back up from the floor. It essentially acted more like an on and off switch than a clutch. To facilitate this arrangement I had a combination master cylinder using the brake bore of the original 7/8" for the 4 drum brakes I retained in the car and a 3/4" re-sleeve on the clutch side for the Datsun clutch. I thought I was stuck with this arrangement. As some of you guys know, I have just got around to converting the front brakes to disc. As part of this conversion I bought an AP Lockheed 3/4" double bore master cylinder. This made no difference to the clutch effort as the clutch bore did not change. I don't know why, but I came to the conclusion that a 1275 slave cylinder would be better for the clutch pedal effort as I now had a 1275 in the car. As I look back on that thinking, it is rather flawed. Yes, I had a 1275 in the Bugeye, but I had a Datsun transmission and a Datsun clutch in the car. Wouldn't that require a Datsun slave cylinder? Well, out of my ignorance I had the 1275 1" bore slave cylinder installed in the car with a slightly longer slave pushrod and bled the clutch with a pressure bleeder. Holy crap! The clutch pedal is now to an almost normal amount of actuating pressure and the engagement travel is more like a normal clutch. I am one happy camper! Just wanted to pass this along if any of you guys with a similar setup is experiencing the same "on/off" switch syndrome with your Datsun trans conversion. > Mike MacLean > P.S. Just in time for spring and summer! > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/oldsaabguy at comcast.net From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Thu Jan 20 08:43:05 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2022 07:43:05 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch Problems In-Reply-To: <81C43FA4-8896-4A36-8B37-C8DCC98ED4BE@comcast.net> References: <81C43FA4-8896-4A36-8B37-C8DCC98ED4BE@comcast.net> Message-ID: The larger (1" bore) slave cylinder is the reason for the great improvement. The longer pushrod is necessary using the larger bore slave to get the proper amount of movement required for the throw out bearing lever. As long as you get all the air out of this hydraulic line you will get the benefit from this "fix". Mike M On Thu, Jan 20, 2022, 6:09 AM JMFangio wrote: > That?s a problem I too have been dealing with, right down to the > description of the clutch working like a light switch! > > Thanks > > Hmm, do you think that it was the slightly longer push rod or the slave > cylinder?? > > > Lester > > > > On Jan 18, 2022, at 3:16 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > > Since I did a Datsun transmission swap to my 1275 powered Bugeye I have > always had a terrible clutch. The conversion kit is from Paul A before he > passed so you can get an idea of how long I have been living with this > clutch. Per Paul I used a Datsun clutch with a re-machined 1275 flywheel > and th eoriginal 948 drum brake slave cylinder. I was assured this would > all work out by paul. Well, it worked, but the the clutch pedal went from > a normal pressure and travel with my 948 and smooth case trans setup to a > nightmarishly hard clutch that had to be depressed all the way to the floor > and grabbed immediately when it was brought up resulting in all the clutch > action happening in the first few inches of travel back up from the floor. > It essentially acted more like an on and off switch than a clutch. To > facilitate this arrangement I had a combination master cylinder using the > brake bore of the original 7/8" for the 4 drum brakes I retained in the car > and a 3/4" re-sleeve on the clutch side for the Datsun clutch. I thought I > was stuck with this arrangement. As some of you guys know, I have just got > around to converting the front brakes to disc. As part of this conversion > I bought an AP Lockheed 3/4" double bore master cylinder. This made no > difference to the clutch effort as the clutch bore did not change. I don't > know why, but I came to the conclusion that a 1275 slave cylinder would be > better for the clutch pedal effort as I now had a 1275 in the car. As I > look back on that thinking, it is rather flawed. Yes, I had a 1275 in the > Bugeye, but I had a Datsun transmission and a Datsun clutch in the car. > Wouldn't that require a Datsun slave cylinder? Well, out of my ignorance I > had the 1275 1" bore slave cylinder installed in the car with a slightly > longer slave pushrod and bled the clutch with a pressure bleeder. Holy > crap! The clutch pedal is now to an almost normal amount of actuating > pressure and the engagement travel is more like a normal clutch. I am one > happy camper! Just wanted to pass this along if any of you guys with a > similar setup is experiencing the same "on/off" switch syndrome with your > Datsun trans conversion. > > Mike MacLean > > P.S. Just in time for spring and summer! > > ------------------------ > > > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/oldsaabguy at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Jan 20 12:03:55 2022 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2022 14:03:55 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. In-Reply-To: References: <7D43DA30-4806-452B-80B4-D6B1C36A8920@chartermi.net> Message-ID: Hi Mike, What I'm going to tell you will probably get the other Spridge folks upset because it flies in the fact of common knowledge. I can only tell you what happened when we finished a disc brake swap on a friend's bugeye that had already been started. Initially, we purchased a new TRW 3'4" bore MC. The car had standard rear drum brakes. Try as we might, we couldn't get a hard pedal, even after installing stainless lines all around. We screwed around with pushrod adjustment, still no dice. What we finally ended up doing was purchasing one of these 7/8" inch MCs with an increased reservoir: https://www.ebay.com/itm/200920716753?fits=Model%3ASprite&hash=item2ec7ced5d1:g:fdsAAOxy02dRf~cB I'm not sure whether we trimmed the pushrods down a bit as well as it was one of the many things we tried. Might be worth a shot if you get desperate. My motto, "If it doesn't;t work, keep throwing new parts at it until it does." Happy Healeying, Rick Neville Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 5:49 PM Michael MacLean via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Clearance on master pushrod correct. > Mike > > On Tue, Jan 18, 2022, 12:53 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > >> Should have asked this before, but did you change pushrods when you >> changed masters? >> >> > On Jan 18, 2022, at 3:41 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: >> > >> > ? >> > Hi Mike, >> > >> > Do you have the proper clearance on the master pushrod at rest? >> > >> > Rick >> > >> >>> On Jan 18, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> >> >> ? >> >> It's a new AP Lockheed master. >> >> Mike >> >> ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/healeyrik at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pvanwig at mac.com Thu Jan 20 12:51:17 2022 From: pvanwig at mac.com (Paul Van Wig) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2022 11:51:17 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. In-Reply-To: References: <7D43DA30-4806-452B-80B4-D6B1C36A8920@chartermi.net> Message-ID: The extended reservoir is a standard MGA part. That can be picked up separately. Paul Van Wig Big Bear/Lakewood, CA On Thu, Jan 20, 2022 at 11:06 AM HealeyRick via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi Mike, > > What I'm going to tell you will probably get the other Spridge folks upset > because it flies in the fact of common knowledge. I can only tell you what > happened when we finished a disc brake swap on a friend's bugeye that had > already been started. Initially, we purchased a new TRW 3'4" bore MC. The > car had standard rear drum brakes. Try as we might, we couldn't get a hard > pedal, even after installing stainless lines all around. We screwed around > with pushrod adjustment, still no dice. What we finally ended up doing was > purchasing one of these 7/8" inch MCs with an increased reservoir: > https://www.ebay.com/itm/200920716753?fits=Model%3ASprite&hash=item2ec7ced5d1:g:fdsAAOxy02dRf~cB > I'm not sure whether we trimmed the pushrods down a bit as well as it was > one of the many things we tried. Might be worth a shot if you get > desperate. My motto, "If it doesn't;t work, keep throwing new parts at it > until it does." > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_3906621554306055369_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 5:49 PM Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Clearance on master pushrod correct. >> Mike >> >> On Tue, Jan 18, 2022, 12:53 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >> >>> Should have asked this before, but did you change pushrods when you >>> changed masters? >>> >>> > On Jan 18, 2022, at 3:41 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: >>> > >>> > ? >>> > Hi Mike, >>> > >>> > Do you have the proper clearance on the master pushrod at rest? >>> > >>> > Rick >>> > >>> >>> On Jan 18, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>> >>> >> ? >>> >> It's a new AP Lockheed master. >>> >> Mike >>> >>> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/healeyrik at gmail.com >> > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/pvanwig at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Thu Jan 20 13:54:00 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2022 12:54:00 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed p.s. In-Reply-To: References: <7D43DA30-4806-452B-80B4-D6B1C36A8920@chartermi.net> Message-ID: Rick, I don't think the new master is leaking internally. I drove the car for over 5 hours yesterday on my way to and from the shop to swap out clutch slave cylinders. The brake pedal goes down almost half way then becomes solid and the brakes work as normal. It can be pumped up once or twice and become solid again. The system was pressure bled multiple times.. The mechanic and I have come to the likely conclusion the new brake shoes in the rear are not contacting the brake drum along it's full surface. No one does brake shoe arcing anymore. When I step on the brakes only a partial part of the brake shoe contacts the brake drum. At the rate of wear on the rear brake shoes, I don't know if they will ever get full contact. At this time the car stops quite well, but I credit the light weight of the car for this. If I was getting 100% out of the rear drums the braking would be much improved. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Mike MacLean On Thu, Jan 20, 2022, 11:04 AM HealeyRick wrote: > Hi Mike, > > What I'm going to tell you will probably get the other Spridge folks upset > because it flies in the fact of common knowledge. I can only tell you what > happened when we finished a disc brake swap on a friend's bugeye that had > already been started. Initially, we purchased a new TRW 3'4" bore MC. The > car had standard rear drum brakes. Try as we might, we couldn't get a hard > pedal, even after installing stainless lines all around. We screwed around > with pushrod adjustment, still no dice. What we finally ended up doing was > purchasing one of these 7/8" inch MCs with an increased reservoir: > https://www.ebay.com/itm/200920716753?fits=Model%3ASprite&hash=item2ec7ced5d1:g:fdsAAOxy02dRf~cB > I'm not sure whether we trimmed the pushrods down a bit as well as it was > one of the many things we tried. Might be worth a shot if you get > desperate. My motto, "If it doesn't;t work, keep throwing new parts at it > until it does." > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-8399171991643241255_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 5:49 PM Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Clearance on master pushrod correct. >> Mike >> >> On Tue, Jan 18, 2022, 12:53 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >> >>> Should have asked this before, but did you change pushrods when you >>> changed masters? >>> >>> > On Jan 18, 2022, at 3:41 PM, Rick Fisk wrote: >>> > >>> > ? >>> > Hi Mike, >>> > >>> > Do you have the proper clearance on the master pushrod at rest? >>> > >>> > Rick >>> > >>> >>> On Jan 18, 2022, at 2:41 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>> >>> >> ? >>> >> It's a new AP Lockheed master. >>> >> Mike >>> >>> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/healeyrik at gmail.com >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Thu Jan 20 14:27:13 2022 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2022 21:27:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Break pedal? References: <1761058672.779601.1642714033002.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1761058672.779601.1642714033002@mail.yahoo.com> Ok..ok...OK!QUIET ENOUGH...First my Bugeye has a 7/8" O.E. master cylinder with front disc brakes.? ?Sintered iorn ( honest to god Ceremetallic 60 year old lining!) rear shoes.?Additionally it's a rib case with 1275 slave cyl..I have had & still have a great pedal pressure with no surprises and am using DOT 6 Silicone fluid.??All that useless rambling , the car has pretty darn good btakes and clutch actuation.? ?Yes it's not a 5 speed with a Datsun clutch.??But!? Where I AM going is this.? ?About 10 years ago I completely reconstructed a 1969 Elden PH10 Formula Ford from a bare frame up.? The 2 brake master cylinders & clutch master cylinder had to be replaced.? There was a serious pedal feel to brake response and another odd ball " the clutch always felt funny" stated by its owner.? The car was started ( disassembly) years before I inherited the project.? Parts were lost and hydraulics corroded , that said I had to replace missing master cylinders.? I am not very good at the math in determining the volume of a cylinder relative to the volume being moved in another cylinder to increase or decrease pedal pressure and also determine pedal travel ( which kinda has a lot of where the push rod attached to the pedal relative to the pedal pivot point).? ?There is / are a lot of available tables to do the " how big moves how much" calculations.? Yes and pedal free play at master cylinder piston at rest also effects the efficiency of the operation.One last " this might help" thing!? ?As far as rear drum brakes go , fully apply the emergency brake when bleeding the brakes.? Ot does not replace fully adjusting the shoes!? It simply removes the possibility that it's a poor rear show adjustment question.??So?? Ummm...next?Chuck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bugeye15 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 21 08:10:18 2022 From: bugeye15 at hotmail.com (brian S) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2022 15:10:18 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order In-Reply-To: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1215392856.617458.1641244509522@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: One thing I do know is that you need to run the brake and fuel lines Before you put on the suspension.! Otherwise it is a pain to route the front brake lines. Frank was kinda annoyed when I hadn't and he was helping me re-assemble my car. ? Brian S. Bugeyeracer resto'ed Thanks to Frank C.! ________________________________ From: Spridgets on behalf of Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets Sent: Monday, January 3, 2022 4:15 PM To: spridgets Subject: [Spridgets] Midget reassembly order So I am hoping that my midget body shell will be back from the painter soon. Once that happens I will start putting her back together. The question is what is that order? What do you recommend? Ryan 74 midget in a 1000 pieces -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Mon Jan 24 06:54:02 2022 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 13:54:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Fuse box cover? References: <1044163202.1798297.1643032442523.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1044163202.1798297.1643032442523@mail.yahoo.com> I need the cover for a 4 fuse ( later style one) Spridget fuse box.? Actually I need 2 but the one that has any importance at all is for the one I used in Frank's race car reconstruction.Little tidbits like this have eluded me.Thank EVERYONE!Chuck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derf247 at gmail.com Mon Jan 24 07:31:19 2022 From: derf247 at gmail.com (Derf) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 08:31:19 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] Fuse box cover? In-Reply-To: <1044163202.1798297.1643032442523@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1044163202.1798297.1643032442523.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1044163202.1798297.1643032442523@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Purists hit delete now. https://www.amazon.com/Ninth-City-Standard-Blade-Holder-Block/dp/B01CBGUXN4/ On Mon, Jan 24, 2022 at 7:56 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > I need the cover for a 4 fuse ( later style one) Spridget fuse box. > Actually I need 2 but the one that has any importance at all is for the one > I used in Frank's race car reconstruction. > Little tidbits like this have eluded me. > Thank EVERYONE! > Chuck > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Mon Jan 24 07:36:40 2022 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 14:36:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Fuse box cover? In-Reply-To: References: <1044163202.1798297.1643032442523.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1044163202.1798297.1643032442523@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <992244140.1817640.1643035000356@mail.yahoo.com> Nice product.? Wished I had gone this route....I simply need the Lucas snap on cover for the fuse box I already have installed in the car.? ?Chuck On Monday, January 24, 2022, 09:31:31 AM EST, Derf wrote: Purists hit delete now. https://www.amazon.com/Ninth-City-Standard-Blade-Holder-Block/dp/B01CBGUXN4/ On Mon, Jan 24, 2022 at 7:56 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets wrote: I need the cover for a 4 fuse ( later style one) Spridget fuse box.? Actually I need 2 but the one that has any importance at all is for the one I used in Frank's race car reconstruction.Little tidbits like this have eluded me.Thank EVERYONE!Chuck------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets? http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/derf247 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bugeye15 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 24 19:28:09 2022 From: bugeye15 at hotmail.com (brian S) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 02:28:09 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] Possible new trans for Spridgets? Message-ID: If any of you have Instagram, check out specialist-components. Their latest post showed scan data for a gearbox adapter for a RWD A series to MX5 transmission. There isn't anything on their website about however. Curious to see/hear if there needs to be any tunnel or heater box mods for it to fit. Their website is https://www.specialist-components.co.uk/ They are the home of the original BMW Twinkam head swap, which is VERY cool, but pretty expensive! Home page [www.specialist-components.co.uk] Specialist engineering services to the motorsport and automotive industries. We have over 20 years experience in providing high precision, high quality engineering solutions across a wide range of industries and markets to customers around the world. www.specialist-components.co.uk Brian S. Bugeyeracer resto'ed Thanks to Frank C.! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stanbmason at aol.com Sun Jan 30 02:17:00 2022 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 09:17:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition References: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598@mail.yahoo.com> Hello Spridgeteers of All Varieties and Happy New Year. I wanted to follow up on my earlier January email that said I would share the results from Driver Incidents in Group 2. Before I do that I want to make a special point of mentioning the 2 awards presented by VSCDA for the great work that 2 of our Spridget members and Alumni were awarded in 2021:Carl? Wallin received the Art Blye Distinguished Award.? Carl has been such a great mechanical gift for all of us throughout the years as an expert crew &/ Spridget Problem Solver Extraordinar.? His abilities have also been a great asset for Tech Inspection./ Scrutineering and all his dedication to VSCDA.? Congratulations CarlCharlie Hall received the President's Safety Award.? Charlie has done a fabulous job with Driver's Committee through out the years and it is great to see him recognized for his dedication to all of us.? Congratulations Charlie. 2021 Group 2 IncreasedUnsafe Driving While Racing Over the last 11 years of being Group 2 representative wehave seen gradual to major improvements as reported by the (DC) DriversCommittee (responsible for improving driver safety and enforcing penalties forthose drivers found in violation of good Vintage Race Driver Principles).? 2021 was the absolute worse that has beenrecorded in over 10 years for Group 2.? Ihave requested the findings from the DC so we can see where these mistakes havebeen made.? This is an opportunity tolearn from those mistakes, whether they involved you or as a learning tool for improvement.? I have summarizedthose results to try and leave the original comments by DC stand and removenames and car numbers.? It is not myintent to embarrass or humiliate anyone that was involved in these incidents,but to draw attention to where mistakes were made so others will not repeat those mistakes. Our Sport requires everyone to be aware ofall things around us while on the track and maintain a Vintage Spirit avoidingRed Mist.? This summarized DC Incident reportis being sent to Spridget Drivers and not our normal distribution of crew andother Spridget Street friends that typically would be on our overalldistribution.? If you know of someonethat races with us in Group 2 that would benefit from this information pleasepass it along to them.? I am unaware of a wayto copy everyone in Group 2 easily.? Iwill highlight areas where I think are we are making repeated mistakes.? I would also ask that these results are takenseriously and analyzed by all of us with the intent of applying this knowledgeso we can decrease incidents in the future. I welcome anyone?s observation and pleaseshare your thoughts with everyone on this distribution. Overall Stan Mason?s observation from 2021 DC Group 2 RacingIncidents: 1.??????General awareness of other cars particularly intraffic - Corrective action = use your mirrors and be multitasking visually asa corner is approached. (I personally have seen all of us being lax in pointingothers by, which is the best way to get feedback that you are aware of othercars that are expecting to pass). 2.??????Too Aggressive ? Corrective Action = When indoubt wait for another opportunity that is safer. Remove the Red Mist.3.? ? ?Passing - Corrective Action =?SVRA issued their recommendation for making a safe pass,which I think is worthwhile to share: The responsibility for a clean pass restswith both drivers. Primary responsibility is with the overtaking car. Cornerstations will advise slower cars with a blue/yellow flag (passing flag.) Watchyour mirrors. If practical, the overtaken driver should clearly indicate to theovertaking driver on which side the pass should be made while maintaining apredictable racing line.? See VSCDA recommended?Ace Factor E. Paul Passing attached ? I want to thank all of those dedicated VSCDA members that are or have been in DC.? I know their job is notalways appreciated as it should be for keeping us safe through enforcing andeliminating bad players that are not willing to learn and change theirbehavior.? We enjoy this exciting sport ofVintage Sports Car Racing and we want to keep it safe and reasonable so itcontinues to be fair for all of us.? Aspecial thanks to Gary Kropf who has taken the time to document theseincidents into a Xcl Spreadsheet so it can be more clearly understood.? I know compiling these incidents has taken a lot of his personal time tocondense into a meaningful document for our Group 2 and other VSCDA RacingGroups. Our vision for the SMRS Jim Donato "Most Respected DriverAward", is important as it relates to this situation more than ever and is stated below: 1. Predictable / Trusted (uses mirrors, points faster carsby, passes safely and allows others room to pass and is always a defensivedriver (over winning at all cost), stays on racing line except when carfailures would leave fluids on track or safety is a concern) 2. Objective: Listens to others and approaches other driversthat they may have an issue with in an open and fair way. Can sit down with anydriver and feel comfortable that they did the right thing when on the track. 3. Observant: Looks forward to observe incidents and flagstations, inspects car between sessions for safety to avoid causing accidentsto others on track. 4. Respectful: Avoids Red Mist, which is identified as anemotional aggressive win There are 2 attachments with this email that I would recommendthat everyone reviews: ?????????2021 Group Incident Report Summary ?????????Ace Factor Scanned Copy of recommended passingby E Paul I hope that everyone has time this Winter to review thesedocuments and personally apply how we can all be better Vintage Sports CarDrivers and carry on the Vintage Spirit Attitude.? Now get back to your Race Spridget so you can make Gingerman and Enjoy A Great Season!!!! VSCDA Group 2 Representative Enjoy? a Spridgetly Life! Stan Mason? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: E Paul Passing Guidelines.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1657119 bytes Desc: not available URL: From frogeye at cox.net Sun Jan 30 06:34:40 2022 From: frogeye at cox.net (Alan Fisher) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 08:34:40 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Full Engine Rebuild for 1959 Austin Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) : 30 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables Message-ID: <499D6374-6064-48DF-B19A-5D8307C3EDF6@cox.net> Thought I would pass this along A feature article on a website I enjoy getting https://www.instructables.com/Full-Engine-Rebuild-for-1959-Austin-Healey-Bugeye-/ Alan Sent from my iPad From ezanner at gmail.com Sun Jan 30 09:03:51 2022 From: ezanner at gmail.com (Erick Zanner) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 08:03:51 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition In-Reply-To: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598@mail.yahoo.com> References: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <324206205.2918645.1643534220598@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This is great, thank you! On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 1:17 AM wrote: > Hello Spridgeteers of All Varieties and Happy New Year. > > I wanted to follow up on my earlier January email that said I would share > the results from Driver Incidents in Group 2. > > Before I do that I want to make a special point of mentioning the 2 awards > presented by VSCDA for the great work that 2 of our Spridget members and > Alumni were awarded in 2021: > Carl Wallin received the Art Blye Distinguished Award. Carl has been > such a great mechanical gift for all of us throughout the years as an > expert crew &/ Spridget Problem Solver Extraordinar. His abilities have > also been a great asset for Tech Inspection./ Scrutineering and all his > dedication to VSCDA. Congratulations Carl > Charlie Hall received the President's Safety Award. Charlie has done a > fabulous job with Driver's Committee through out the years and it is great > to see him recognized for his dedication to all of us. Congratulations > Charlie. > > *2021 Group 2 Increased Unsafe Driving While Racing* > Over the last 11 years of being Group 2 representative we have seen > gradual to major improvements as reported by the (DC) Drivers Committee > (responsible for improving driver safety and enforcing penalties for those > drivers found in violation of good Vintage Race Driver Principles). 2021 > was the absolute worse that has been recorded in over 10 years for Group > 2. I have requested the findings from the DC so we can see where these > mistakes have been made. This is an opportunity to learn from those > mistakes, whether they involved you or as a learning tool for improvement. > I have summarized those results to try and leave the original comments by > DC stand and remove names and car numbers. It is not my intent to > embarrass or humiliate anyone that was involved in these incidents, but to > draw attention to where mistakes were made so others will not repeat those > mistakes. Our Sport requires everyone to be aware of all things around us > while on the track and maintain a Vintage Spirit avoiding Red Mist. This > summarized DC Incident report is being sent to Spridget Drivers and not our > normal distribution of crew and other Spridget Street friends that > typically would be on our overall distribution. If you know of someone > that races with us in Group 2 that would benefit from this information > please pass it along to them. I am unaware of a way to copy everyone in > Group 2 easily. I will highlight areas where I think are we are making > repeated mistakes. I would also ask that these results are taken seriously > and analyzed by all of us with the intent of applying this knowledge so we > can decrease incidents in the future. I welcome anyone?s observation and > please share your thoughts with everyone on this distribution. > > Overall Stan Mason?s observation from 2021 DC Group 2 Racing Incidents: > 1. General awareness of other cars particularly in traffic - > Corrective action = use your mirrors and be multitasking visually as a > corner is approached. (I personally have seen all of us being lax in > pointing others by, which is the best way to get feedback that you are > aware of other cars that are expecting to pass). > 2. Too Aggressive ? Corrective Action = When in doubt wait for > another opportunity that is safer. Remove the Red Mist. > 3. Passing - Corrective Action = SVRA issued their recommendation for > making a safe pass, which I think is worthwhile to share: The > responsibility for a clean pass rests with both drivers. Primary > responsibility is with the overtaking car. Corner stations will advise > slower cars with a blue/yellow flag (passing flag.) Watch your mirrors. If > practical, the overtaken driver should clearly indicate to the overtaking > driver on which side the pass should be made while maintaining a > predictable racing line. See VSCDA recommended Ace Factor E. Paul > Passing attached > > I want to thank all of those dedicated VSCDA members that are or have been > in DC. I know their job is not always appreciated as it should be for > keeping us safe through enforcing and eliminating bad players that are not > willing to learn and change their behavior. We enjoy this exciting sport > of Vintage Sports Car Racing and we want to keep it safe and reasonable so > it continues to be fair for all of us. A special thanks to Gary Kropf who > has taken the time to document these incidents into a Xcl Spreadsheet so it > can be more clearly understood. I know compiling these incidents has taken > a lot of his personal time to condense into a meaningful document for our > Group 2 and other VSCDA Racing Groups. > > Our vision for the SMRS Jim Donato "Most Respected Driver Award", is > important as it relates to this situation more than ever and is stated > below: > 1. Predictable / Trusted (uses mirrors, points faster cars by, passes > safely and allows others room to pass and is always a defensive driver > (over winning at all cost), stays on racing line except when car failures > would leave fluids on track or safety is a concern) > 2. Objective: Listens to others and approaches other drivers that they may > have an issue with in an open and fair way. Can sit down with any driver > and feel comfortable that they did the right thing when on the track. > 3. Observant: Looks forward to observe incidents and flag stations, > inspects car between sessions for safety to avoid causing accidents to > others on track. > 4. Respectful: Avoids Red Mist, which is identified as an emotional > aggressive win > There are 2 attachments with this email that I would recommend that > everyone reviews: > ? 2021 Group Incident Report Summary > ? Ace Factor Scanned Copy of recommended passing by E Paul > I hope that everyone has time this Winter to review these documents and > personally apply how we can all be better Vintage Sports Car Drivers and > carry on the Vintage Spirit Attitude. > > Now get back to your Race Spridget so you can make Gingerman and Enjoy A > Great Season!!!! > > VSCDA Group 2 Representative > Enjoy a Spridgetly Life! > Stan Mason > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deikis at gmail.com Sun Jan 30 11:58:15 2022 From: deikis at gmail.com (John Deikis) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 13:58:15 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition In-Reply-To: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598@mail.yahoo.com> References: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <324206205.2918645.1643534220598@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks, Stan. Your work at being the Group 2 rep over the years has been not just to "represent" us to the club but also to help us. Bravo, my friend! -John D and his driver, Nigel Johnsfolly On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:17 AM wrote: > Hello Spridgeteers of All Varieties and Happy New Year. > > I wanted to follow up on my earlier January email that said I would share > the results from Driver Incidents in Group 2. > > Before I do that I want to make a special point of mentioning the 2 awards > presented by VSCDA for the great work that 2 of our Spridget members and > Alumni were awarded in 2021: > Carl Wallin received the Art Blye Distinguished Award. Carl has been > such a great mechanical gift for all of us throughout the years as an > expert crew &/ Spridget Problem Solver Extraordinar. His abilities have > also been a great asset for Tech Inspection./ Scrutineering and all his > dedication to VSCDA. Congratulations Carl > Charlie Hall received the President's Safety Award. Charlie has done a > fabulous job with Driver's Committee through out the years and it is great > to see him recognized for his dedication to all of us. Congratulations > Charlie. > > *2021 Group 2 Increased Unsafe Driving While Racing* > Over the last 11 years of being Group 2 representative we have seen > gradual to major improvements as reported by the (DC) Drivers Committee > (responsible for improving driver safety and enforcing penalties for those > drivers found in violation of good Vintage Race Driver Principles). 2021 > was the absolute worse that has been recorded in over 10 years for Group > 2. I have requested the findings from the DC so we can see where these > mistakes have been made. This is an opportunity to learn from those > mistakes, whether they involved you or as a learning tool for improvement. > I have summarized those results to try and leave the original comments by > DC stand and remove names and car numbers. It is not my intent to > embarrass or humiliate anyone that was involved in these incidents, but to > draw attention to where mistakes were made so others will not repeat those > mistakes. Our Sport requires everyone to be aware of all things around us > while on the track and maintain a Vintage Spirit avoiding Red Mist. This > summarized DC Incident report is being sent to Spridget Drivers and not our > normal distribution of crew and other Spridget Street friends that > typically would be on our overall distribution. If you know of someone > that races with us in Group 2 that would benefit from this information > please pass it along to them. I am unaware of a way to copy everyone in > Group 2 easily. I will highlight areas where I think are we are making > repeated mistakes. I would also ask that these results are taken seriously > and analyzed by all of us with the intent of applying this knowledge so we > can decrease incidents in the future. I welcome anyone?s observation and > please share your thoughts with everyone on this distribution. > > Overall Stan Mason?s observation from 2021 DC Group 2 Racing Incidents: > 1. General awareness of other cars particularly in traffic - > Corrective action = use your mirrors and be multitasking visually as a > corner is approached. (I personally have seen all of us being lax in > pointing others by, which is the best way to get feedback that you are > aware of other cars that are expecting to pass). > 2. Too Aggressive ? Corrective Action = When in doubt wait for > another opportunity that is safer. Remove the Red Mist. > 3. Passing - Corrective Action = SVRA issued their recommendation for > making a safe pass, which I think is worthwhile to share: The > responsibility for a clean pass rests with both drivers. Primary > responsibility is with the overtaking car. Corner stations will advise > slower cars with a blue/yellow flag (passing flag.) Watch your mirrors. If > practical, the overtaken driver should clearly indicate to the overtaking > driver on which side the pass should be made while maintaining a > predictable racing line. See VSCDA recommended Ace Factor E. Paul > Passing attached > > I want to thank all of those dedicated VSCDA members that are or have been > in DC. I know their job is not always appreciated as it should be for > keeping us safe through enforcing and eliminating bad players that are not > willing to learn and change their behavior. We enjoy this exciting sport > of Vintage Sports Car Racing and we want to keep it safe and reasonable so > it continues to be fair for all of us. A special thanks to Gary Kropf who > has taken the time to document these incidents into a Xcl Spreadsheet so it > can be more clearly understood. I know compiling these incidents has taken > a lot of his personal time to condense into a meaningful document for our > Group 2 and other VSCDA Racing Groups. > > Our vision for the SMRS Jim Donato "Most Respected Driver Award", is > important as it relates to this situation more than ever and is stated > below: > 1. Predictable / Trusted (uses mirrors, points faster cars by, passes > safely and allows others room to pass and is always a defensive driver > (over winning at all cost), stays on racing line except when car failures > would leave fluids on track or safety is a concern) > 2. Objective: Listens to others and approaches other drivers that they may > have an issue with in an open and fair way. Can sit down with any driver > and feel comfortable that they did the right thing when on the track. > 3. Observant: Looks forward to observe incidents and flag stations, > inspects car between sessions for safety to avoid causing accidents to > others on track. > 4. Respectful: Avoids Red Mist, which is identified as an emotional > aggressive win > There are 2 attachments with this email that I would recommend that > everyone reviews: > ? 2021 Group Incident Report Summary > ? Ace Factor Scanned Copy of recommended passing by E Paul > I hope that everyone has time this Winter to review these documents and > personally apply how we can all be better Vintage Sports Car Drivers and > carry on the Vintage Spirit Attitude. > > Now get back to your Race Spridget so you can make Gingerman and Enjoy A > Great Season!!!! > > VSCDA Group 2 Representative > Enjoy a Spridgetly Life! > Stan Mason > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Sun Jan 30 17:26:52 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 16:26:52 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable Message-ID: Does anyone have an original Bugeye type starter pull cable that they would like to sell? Recently the original cable in my Bugeye that had been in the car since 1960 was damaged. The brown wire coming off the negative post has an eyelet connector with a small bolt where the wire continues to the voltage regulator. The steel wound casing of the original starter cable contacted that eyelet/bolt connection and instantly grounded out to the body. Just like a welder it cut the cable and wound sheath in half. I bought an original style starter pull cable from Moss. To their credit it is a close copy of the original with an engraved "S" on a correctly shaped knob. Only one problem, it is about a half inch too short. Right now I have it installed, but the braided wire cable is just screwed down in the steel connector by the very edge of the wire. The same for the solenoid shaft on the other end of the steel connector. I kind of doubt buying another cable from Moss will be any different. So, looking for an original pull cable. Surface condition of the knob is not important. I can paint it black and the "S" white like I did for the original that was in the car and it looked great for the last 22 years. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billyzoom at billyzoom.com Sun Jan 30 17:31:50 2022 From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 16:31:50 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <59441344-ADEB-40BA-A292-B5FA401C1F34@billyzoom.com> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mImc8cjZW04 From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Sun Jan 30 17:52:21 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 16:52:21 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable In-Reply-To: <59441344-ADEB-40BA-A292-B5FA401C1F34@billyzoom.com> References: <59441344-ADEB-40BA-A292-B5FA401C1F34@billyzoom.com> Message-ID: Well, that was fun. Mike M On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:31 PM Billy Zoom wrote: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mImc8cjZW04 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billyzoom at billyzoom.com Sun Jan 30 17:54:49 2022 From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 16:54:49 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable,AKA pardon my faux pas In-Reply-To: References: <59441344-ADEB-40BA-A292-B5FA401C1F34@billyzoom.com> Message-ID: <7577D421-1A0A-40C5-B50D-D7D41E09B9D2@billyzoom.com> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen Shot 2022-01-30 at 4.31.28 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 216910 bytes Desc: not available URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Sun Jan 30 18:07:02 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 17:07:02 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable,AKA pardon my faux pas In-Reply-To: <7577D421-1A0A-40C5-B50D-D7D41E09B9D2@billyzoom.com> References: <59441344-ADEB-40BA-A292-B5FA401C1F34@billyzoom.com> <7577D421-1A0A-40C5-B50D-D7D41E09B9D2@billyzoom.com> Message-ID: Well, that would seem to be a great idea on the surface. While it would solve the length problem, connecting it to the knob end might be a bit problematic. The cable is pressed/crimped into a shaft connected to the knob that then resides in a very tight sheath just a little larger in inner diameter than the crimped shaft. Maybe a short length of cable extending the starter cable with some sort of collar with a set screw? Much easier to source an original, I hope. Mike M On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:54 PM Billy Zoom wrote: > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billyzoom at billyzoom.com Sun Jan 30 18:20:20 2022 From: billyzoom at billyzoom.com (Billy Zoom) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 17:20:20 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable,AKA pardon my faux pas In-Reply-To: References: <59441344-ADEB-40BA-A292-B5FA401C1F34@billyzoom.com> <7577D421-1A0A-40C5-B50D-D7D41E09B9D2@billyzoom.com> Message-ID: I?ve had very good luck putting old knobs on new cables. Cut off the crimp, run a small drill into the hole, push the cable in, and crimp with a ratchet-type crimper. From stanbmason at aol.com Sun Jan 30 19:03:25 2022 From: stanbmason at aol.com (stanbmason at aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 02:03:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition In-Reply-To: References: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <324206205.2918645.1643534220598@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1480706436.3069069.1643594605827@mail.yahoo.com> Appreciated Nigel -----Original Message----- From: John Deikis To: Stan B Mason Cc: allmedsys at bwig.net ; andrew.more.fsae at gmail.com ; attlastt at frontier.net ; bmwwxman at gmail.com ; bravenrace at yahoo.com ; buckleyproperties at gmail.com ; bugeyedave at aol.com ; buks62500 at yahoo.com ; cana.comer at gmail.com ; ccstickleback at yahoo.com ; charlie at charles-hall.com ; chia219 at comcast.net ; christopher.beukema at gmail.com ; cjracr at hotmail.com ; clancy at sunflower.com ; colin at colinsclassicauto.com ; cseifert at tombrowninc.com ; d.walters at lackstrim.com ; dbkessinger at comcast.net ; dbrown07 at aol.com ; dbruce at taborbruce.com ; derekchima at hotmail.com ; devildogracing9 at gmail.com ; dick at mgcarclub.com ; dlee1967 at sbcglobal.net ; dsweet3193 at aol.com ; dynamic881961 at yahoo.com ; edwardhinsa at gmail.com ; edwforrest at gmail.com ; ellie at stagecraftplayers.com ; ezanner at gmail.com ; fishnet at essex1.com ; gary.perser at gmail.com ; happykozfam at comcast.net ; hcgracing at aol.com ; jbtruck at dwave.net ; jdonato at donatoandsonsmotors.com ; jeff.bakker at yahoo.com ; jeff at mozer.com ; k_hund59 at yahoo.com ; kekjacobsen at yahoo.com ; kered_2004 at yahoo.com ; kirkkos at yahoo.com ; larsmg at aol.com ; maxspeedwell773 at gmail.com ; mccormackr at hss.edu ; mg72racer at juno.com ; mgvadick at aol.com ; mmaehling at comcast.net ; mowogbill at yahoo.com ; nadadawgracing at yahoo.com ; pauljharris914 at yahoo.com ; ptgbhtl at aol.com ; racingred69midget at rogers.com ; refisk at chartermi.net ; rfheil at aol.com ; rickdmichalek at gmail.com ; rob.futcher at yahoo.com ; ron.bartell at comcast.net ; saeppli at aol.com ; salisje at comcast.net ; sarl45 at hotmail.com ; scthsc47 at gmail.com ; skip.meyer at ymail.com ; slugthemtrhd at suddenlink.net ; soavero at yahoo.com ; spridget72 at yahoo.com ; spridget at aol.com ; spridgetech at ameritech.net ; spridgets at autox.team.net ; steve.bisson at yahoo.com ; steve at onecoleman.com ; steve at skunkriverresto.com ; stevebest3131 at gmail.com ; stevewright9928 at gmail.com ; stine.jason at gmail.com ; swindrace at aol.com ; swope66 at aol.com ; ta.wilcox57 at gmail.com ; tcspeedwell at gmail.com ; ted at hoyes.com ; terry at toyshop-resto.com ; thadevans at windstream.net ; thershey at frontiernet.net ; tim at mcginleyinc.com ; tlcnam at aol.com ; tmoran at moranconstruction.com ; tom.daly at westsidevw.com ; viggen at bellsouth.net ; w1979mgb at comcast.net ; walt at freckmannart.com ; wc at spridget.com ; wrtr at aol.com ; wsthompson at thicko.com ; dlee1967 at sbclgobal.net ; dstantonkc at gmail.com ; bldan at bldan.com ; sallywallin at hotmail.com Sent: Sun, Jan 30, 2022 1:58 pm Subject: Re: 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition Thanks, Stan. Your work at being the Group 2 rep over the years has been not just to "represent" us to the club but also to help us. Bravo, my friend!-John D and his driver, Nigel Johnsfolly On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:17 AM wrote: Hello Spridgeteers of All Varieties and Happy New Year. I wanted to follow up on my earlier January email that said I would share the results from Driver Incidents in Group 2. Before I do that I want to make a special point of mentioning the 2 awards presented by VSCDA for the great work that 2 of our Spridget members and Alumni were awarded in 2021:Carl? Wallin received the Art Blye Distinguished Award.? Carl has been such a great mechanical gift for all of us throughout the years as an expert crew &/ Spridget Problem Solver Extraordinar.? His abilities have also been a great asset for Tech Inspection./ Scrutineering and all his dedication to VSCDA.? Congratulations CarlCharlie Hall received the President's Safety Award.? Charlie has done a fabulous job with Driver's Committee through out the years and it is great to see him recognized for his dedication to all of us.? Congratulations Charlie. 2021 Group 2 IncreasedUnsafe Driving While Racing Over the last 11 years of being Group 2 representative wehave seen gradual to major improvements as reported by the (DC) DriversCommittee (responsible for improving driver safety and enforcing penalties forthose drivers found in violation of good Vintage Race Driver Principles).? 2021 was the absolute worse that has beenrecorded in over 10 years for Group 2.? Ihave requested the findings from the DC so we can see where these mistakes havebeen made.? This is an opportunity tolearn from those mistakes, whether they involved you or as a learning tool for improvement.? I have summarizedthose results to try and leave the original comments by DC stand and removenames and car numbers.? It is not myintent to embarrass or humiliate anyone that was involved in these incidents,but to draw attention to where mistakes were made so others will not repeat those mistakes. Our Sport requires everyone to be aware ofall things around us while on the track and maintain a Vintage Spirit avoidingRed Mist.? This summarized DC Incident reportis being sent to Spridget Drivers and not our normal distribution of crew andother Spridget Street friends that typically would be on our overalldistribution.? If you know of someonethat races with us in Group 2 that would benefit from this information pleasepass it along to them.? I am unaware of a wayto copy everyone in Group 2 easily.? Iwill highlight areas where I think are we are making repeated mistakes.? I would also ask that these results are takenseriously and analyzed by all of us with the intent of applying this knowledgeso we can decrease incidents in the future. I welcome anyone?s observation and pleaseshare your thoughts with everyone on this distribution. Overall Stan Mason?s observation from 2021 DC Group 2 RacingIncidents: 1.??????General awareness of other cars particularly intraffic - Corrective action = use your mirrors and be multitasking visually asa corner is approached. (I personally have seen all of us being lax in pointingothers by, which is the best way to get feedback that you are aware of othercars that are expecting to pass). 2.??????Too Aggressive ? Corrective Action = When indoubt wait for another opportunity that is safer. Remove the Red Mist.3.? ? ?Passing - Corrective Action =?SVRA issued their recommendation for making a safe pass,which I think is worthwhile to share: The responsibility for a clean pass restswith both drivers. Primary responsibility is with the overtaking car. Cornerstations will advise slower cars with a blue/yellow flag (passing flag.) Watchyour mirrors. If practical, the overtaken driver should clearly indicate to theovertaking driver on which side the pass should be made while maintaining apredictable racing line.? See VSCDA recommended?Ace Factor E. Paul Passing attached ? I want to thank all of those dedicated VSCDA members that are or have been in DC.? I know their job is notalways appreciated as it should be for keeping us safe through enforcing andeliminating bad players that are not willing to learn and change theirbehavior.? We enjoy this exciting sport ofVintage Sports Car Racing and we want to keep it safe and reasonable so itcontinues to be fair for all of us.? Aspecial thanks to Gary Kropf who has taken the time to document theseincidents into a Xcl Spreadsheet so it can be more clearly understood.? I know compiling these incidents has taken a lot of his personal time tocondense into a meaningful document for our Group 2 and other VSCDA RacingGroups. Our vision for the SMRS Jim Donato "Most Respected DriverAward", is important as it relates to this situation more than ever and is stated below: 1. Predictable / Trusted (uses mirrors, points faster carsby, passes safely and allows others room to pass and is always a defensivedriver (over winning at all cost), stays on racing line except when carfailures would leave fluids on track or safety is a concern) 2. Objective: Listens to others and approaches other driversthat they may have an issue with in an open and fair way. Can sit down with anydriver and feel comfortable that they did the right thing when on the track. 3. Observant: Looks forward to observe incidents and flagstations, inspects car between sessions for safety to avoid causing accidentsto others on track. 4. Respectful: Avoids Red Mist, which is identified as anemotional aggressive win There are 2 attachments with this email that I would recommendthat everyone reviews: ?????????2021 Group Incident Report Summary ?????????Ace Factor Scanned Copy of recommended passingby E Paul I hope that everyone has time this Winter to review thesedocuments and personally apply how we can all be better Vintage Sports CarDrivers and carry on the Vintage Spirit Attitude.? Now get back to your Race Spridget so you can make Gingerman and Enjoy A Great Season!!!! VSCDA Group 2 Representative Enjoy? a Spridgetly Life! Stan Mason? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From soavero at yahoo.com Mon Jan 31 04:38:21 2022 From: soavero at yahoo.com (Ron Soave) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 05:38:21 -0600 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063A11A3-8342-4EED-92DA-7BA567986251@yahoo.com> Hey Mike, I might. I?ll check the stuff I got from Frank. I don?t think so, but it?s 300 boxes of mostly 67 and prior small bits. Pay it forward? Ron Soave > On Jan 30, 2022, at 6:52 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > Well, that was fun. > Mike M > >> On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:31 PM Billy Zoom wrote: >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mImc8cjZW04 > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Mon Jan 31 04:43:41 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 03:43:41 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable In-Reply-To: <063A11A3-8342-4EED-92DA-7BA567986251@yahoo.com> References: <063A11A3-8342-4EED-92DA-7BA567986251@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ok, thanks. On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 3:38 AM Ron Soave wrote: > Hey Mike, > > I might. I?ll check the stuff I got from Frank. I don?t think so, but it?s > 300 boxes of mostly 67 and prior small bits. Pay it forward? > > Ron Soave > > On Jan 30, 2022, at 6:52 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > Well, that was fun. > Mike M > > On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:31 PM Billy Zoom > wrote: > >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mImc8cjZW04 >> > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charlie at charles-hall.com Mon Jan 31 05:32:00 2022 From: charlie at charles-hall.com (Charles Hall III) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 12:32:00 +0000 Subject: [Spridgets] 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition In-Reply-To: <1480706436.3069069.1643594605827@mail.yahoo.com> References: <324206205.2918645.1643534220598.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <324206205.2918645.1643534220598@mail.yahoo.com> <1480706436.3069069.1643594605827@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Kudos Mr. Mason From: stanbmason at aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2022 9:03 PM To: deikis at gmail.com Cc: allmedsys at bwig.net; andrew.more.fsae at gmail.com; attlastt at frontier.net; bmwwxman at gmail.com; bravenrace at yahoo.com; buckleyproperties at gmail.com; bugeyedave at aol.com; buks62500 at yahoo.com; cana.comer at gmail.com; ccstickleback at yahoo.com; Charles Hall III ; chia219 at comcast.net; christopher.beukema at gmail.com; cjracr at hotmail.com; clancy at sunflower.com; colin at colinsclassicauto.com; cseifert at tombrowninc.com; d.walters at lackstrim.com; dbkessinger at comcast.net; dbrown07 at aol.com; dbruce at taborbruce.com; derekchima at hotmail.com; devildogracing9 at gmail.com; dick at mgcarclub.com; dlee1967 at sbcglobal.net; dsweet3193 at aol.com; dynamic881961 at yahoo.com; edwardhinsa at gmail.com; edwforrest at gmail.com; ellie at stagecraftplayers.com; ezanner at gmail.com; fishnet at essex1.com; gary.perser at gmail.com; happykozfam at comcast.net; hcgracing at aol.com; jbtruck at dwave.net; jdonato at donatoandsonsmotors.com; jeff.bakker at yahoo.com; jeff at mozer.com; k_hund59 at yahoo.com; kekjacobsen at yahoo.com; kered_2004 at yahoo.com; kirkkos at yahoo.com; larsmg at aol.com; maxspeedwell773 at gmail.com; mccormackr at hss.edu; mg72racer at juno.com; mgvadick at aol.com; mmaehling at comcast.net; mowogbill at yahoo.com; nadadawgracing at yahoo.com; pauljharris914 at yahoo.com; ptgbhtl at aol.com; racingred69midget at rogers.com; refisk at chartermi.net; rfheil at aol.com; rickdmichalek at gmail.com; rob.futcher at yahoo.com; ron.bartell at comcast.net; saeppli at aol.com; salisje at comcast.net; sarl45 at hotmail.com; scthsc47 at gmail.com; skip.meyer at ymail.com; slugthemtrhd at suddenlink.net; soavero at yahoo.com; spridget72 at yahoo.com; spridget at aol.com; spridgetech at ameritech.net; spridgets at autox.team.net; steve.bisson at yahoo.com; steve at onecoleman.com; steve at skunkriverresto.com; stevebest3131 at gmail.com; stevewright9928 at gmail.com; stine.jason at gmail.com; swindrace at aol.com; swope66 at aol.com; ta.wilcox57 at gmail.com; tcspeedwell at gmail.com; ted at hoyes.com; terry at toyshop-resto.com; thadevans at windstream.net; thershey at frontiernet.net; tim at mcginleyinc.com; tlcnam at aol.com; tmoran at moranconstruction.com; tom.daly at westsidevw.com; viggen at bellsouth.net; w1979mgb at comcast.net; walt at freckmannart.com; wc at spridget.com; wrtr at aol.com; wsthompson at thicko.com; dlee1967 at sbclgobal.net; dstantonkc at gmail.com; bldan at bldan.com; sallywallin at hotmail.com Subject: Re: 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition Appreciated Nigel -----Original Message----- From: John Deikis > To: Stan B Mason > Cc: allmedsys at bwig.net >; andrew.more.fsae at gmail.com >; attlastt at frontier.net >; bmwwxman at gmail.com >; bravenrace at yahoo.com >; buckleyproperties at gmail.com >; bugeyedave at aol.com >; buks62500 at yahoo.com >; cana.comer at gmail.com >; ccstickleback at yahoo.com >; charlie at charles-hall.com >; chia219 at comcast.net >; christopher.beukema at gmail.com >; cjracr at hotmail.com >; clancy at sunflower.com >; colin at colinsclassicauto.com >; cseifert at tombrowninc.com >; d.walters at lackstrim.com >; dbkessinger at comcast.net >; dbrown07 at aol.com >; dbruce at taborbruce.com >; derekchima at hotmail.com >; devildogracing9 at gmail.com >; dick at mgcarclub.com >; dlee1967 at sbcglobal.net >; dsweet3193 at aol.com >; dynamic881961 at yahoo.com >; edwardhinsa at gmail.com >; edwforrest at gmail.com >; ellie at stagecraftplayers.com >; ezanner at gmail.com >; fishnet at essex1.com >; gary.perser at gmail.com >; happykozfam at comcast.net >; hcgracing at aol.com >; jbtruck at dwave.net >; jdonato at donatoandsonsmotors.com >; jeff.bakker at yahoo.com >; jeff at mozer.com >; k_hund59 at yahoo.com >; kekjacobsen at yahoo.com >; kered_2004 at yahoo.com >; kirkkos at yahoo.com >; larsmg at aol.com >; maxspeedwell773 at gmail.com >; mccormackr at hss.edu >; mg72racer at juno.com >; mgvadick at aol.com >; mmaehling at comcast.net >; mowogbill at yahoo.com >; nadadawgracing at yahoo.com >; pauljharris914 at yahoo.com >; ptgbhtl at aol.com >; racingred69midget at rogers.com >; refisk at chartermi.net >; rfheil at aol.com >; rickdmichalek at gmail.com >; rob.futcher at yahoo.com >; ron.bartell at comcast.net >; saeppli at aol.com >; salisje at comcast.net >; sarl45 at hotmail.com >; scthsc47 at gmail.com >; skip.meyer at ymail.com >; slugthemtrhd at suddenlink.net >; soavero at yahoo.com >; spridget72 at yahoo.com >; spridget at aol.com >; spridgetech at ameritech.net >; spridgets at autox.team.net >; steve.bisson at yahoo.com >; steve at onecoleman.com >; steve at skunkriverresto.com >; stevebest3131 at gmail.com >; stevewright9928 at gmail.com >; stine.jason at gmail.com >; swindrace at aol.com >; swope66 at aol.com >; ta.wilcox57 at gmail.com >; tcspeedwell at gmail.com >; ted at hoyes.com >; terry at toyshop-resto.com >; thadevans at windstream.net >; thershey at frontiernet.net >; tim at mcginleyinc.com >; tlcnam at aol.com >; tmoran at moranconstruction.com >; tom.daly at westsidevw.com >; viggen at bellsouth.net >; w1979mgb at comcast.net >; walt at freckmannart.com >; wc at spridget.com >; wrtr at aol.com >; wsthompson at thicko.com >; dlee1967 at sbclgobal.net >; dstantonkc at gmail.com >; bldan at bldan.com >; sallywallin at hotmail.com > Sent: Sun, Jan 30, 2022 1:58 pm Subject: Re: 2021 SMRS Driver Committee and Recognition Thanks, Stan. Your work at being the Group 2 rep over the years has been not just to "represent" us to the club but also to help us. Bravo, my friend! -John D and his driver, Nigel Johnsfolly On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:17 AM > wrote: Hello Spridgeteers of All Varieties and Happy New Year. I wanted to follow up on my earlier January email that said I would share the results from Driver Incidents in Group 2. Before I do that I want to make a special point of mentioning the 2 awards presented by VSCDA for the great work that 2 of our Spridget members and Alumni were awarded in 2021: Carl Wallin received the Art Blye Distinguished Award. Carl has been such a great mechanical gift for all of us throughout the years as an expert crew &/ Spridget Problem Solver Extraordinar. His abilities have also been a great asset for Tech Inspection./ Scrutineering and all his dedication to VSCDA. Congratulations Carl Charlie Hall received the President's Safety Award. Charlie has done a fabulous job with Driver's Committee through out the years and it is great to see him recognized for his dedication to all of us. Congratulations Charlie. 2021 Group 2 Increased Unsafe Driving While Racing Over the last 11 years of being Group 2 representative we have seen gradual to major improvements as reported by the (DC) Drivers Committee (responsible for improving driver safety and enforcing penalties for those drivers found in violation of good Vintage Race Driver Principles). 2021 was the absolute worse that has been recorded in over 10 years for Group 2. I have requested the findings from the DC so we can see where these mistakes have been made. This is an opportunity to learn from those mistakes, whether they involved you or as a learning tool for improvement. I have summarized those results to try and leave the original comments by DC stand and remove names and car numbers. It is not my intent to embarrass or humiliate anyone that was involved in these incidents, but to draw attention to where mistakes were made so others will not repeat those mistakes. Our Sport requires everyone to be aware of all things around us while on the track and maintain a Vintage Spirit avoiding Red Mist. This summarized DC Incident report is being sent to Spridget Drivers and not our normal distribution of crew and other Spridget Street friends that typically would be on our overall distribution. If you know of someone that races with us in Group 2 that would benefit from this information please pass it along to them. I am unaware of a way to copy everyone in Group 2 easily. I will highlight areas where I think are we are making repeated mistakes. I would also ask that these results are taken seriously and analyzed by all of us with the intent of applying this knowledge so we can decrease incidents in the future. I welcome anyone?s observation and please share your thoughts with everyone on this distribution. Overall Stan Mason?s observation from 2021 DC Group 2 Racing Incidents: 1. General awareness of other cars particularly in traffic - Corrective action = use your mirrors and be multitasking visually as a corner is approached. (I personally have seen all of us being lax in pointing others by, which is the best way to get feedback that you are aware of other cars that are expecting to pass). 2. Too Aggressive ? Corrective Action = When in doubt wait for another opportunity that is safer. Remove the Red Mist. 3. Passing - Corrective Action = SVRA issued their recommendation for making a safe pass, which I think is worthwhile to share: The responsibility for a clean pass rests with both drivers. Primary responsibility is with the overtaking car. Corner stations will advise slower cars with a blue/yellow flag (passing flag.) Watch your mirrors. If practical, the overtaken driver should clearly indicate to the overtaking driver on which side the pass should be made while maintaining a predictable racing line. See VSCDA recommended Ace Factor E. Paul Passing attached I want to thank all of those dedicated VSCDA members that are or have been in DC. I know their job is not always appreciated as it should be for keeping us safe through enforcing and eliminating bad players that are not willing to learn and change their behavior. We enjoy this exciting sport of Vintage Sports Car Racing and we want to keep it safe and reasonable so it continues to be fair for all of us. A special thanks to Gary Kropf who has taken the time to document these incidents into a Xcl Spreadsheet so it can be more clearly understood. I know compiling these incidents has taken a lot of his personal time to condense into a meaningful document for our Group 2 and other VSCDA Racing Groups. Our vision for the SMRS Jim Donato "Most Respected Driver Award", is important as it relates to this situation more than ever and is stated below: 1. Predictable / Trusted (uses mirrors, points faster cars by, passes safely and allows others room to pass and is always a defensive driver (over winning at all cost), stays on racing line except when car failures would leave fluids on track or safety is a concern) 2. Objective: Listens to others and approaches other drivers that they may have an issue with in an open and fair way. Can sit down with any driver and feel comfortable that they did the right thing when on the track. 3. Observant: Looks forward to observe incidents and flag stations, inspects car between sessions for safety to avoid causing accidents to others on track. 4. Respectful: Avoids Red Mist, which is identified as an emotional aggressive win There are 2 attachments with this email that I would recommend that everyone reviews: ? 2021 Group Incident Report Summary ? Ace Factor Scanned Copy of recommended passing by E Paul I hope that everyone has time this Winter to review these documents and personally apply how we can all be better Vintage Sports Car Drivers and carry on the Vintage Spirit Attitude. Now get back to your Race Spridget so you can make Gingerman and Enjoy A Great Season!!!! VSCDA Group 2 Representative Enjoy a Spridgetly Life! Stan Mason -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From miniac7 at aol.com Mon Jan 31 06:01:08 2022 From: miniac7 at aol.com (miniac7 (null)) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:01:08 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: BugeyeGuy shows one on their web site. I?d be very surprised if they stock one that doesn?t fit. Howard Collins Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 31, 2022, at 6:44 AM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > Ok, thanks. > >> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 3:38 AM Ron Soave wrote: >> Hey Mike, >> >> I might. I?ll check the stuff I got from Frank. I don?t think so, but it?s 300 boxes of mostly 67 and prior small bits. Pay it forward? >> >> Ron Soave >> >>>> On Jan 30, 2022, at 6:52 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>> >>> ? >>> Well, that was fun. >>> Mike M >>> >>>> On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:31 PM Billy Zoom wrote: >>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mImc8cjZW04 >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/miniac7 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Mon Jan 31 09:44:05 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:44:05 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Bugeye starter pull cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The usual suppliers in the UK also sell this close copy. I can't imagine there is more than one manufacturer. I'm sure everyone is selling the same one, including Moss. What I am sure of is it is made too short. The original start pull cable fit perfectly. I can make this copy work, but the start solenoid has to be pulled out almost 1/4 inch for the braided cable to be inserted enough for the set screw to clamp down on it. That leaves the cable under permanent spring tension. That can't be right. It was not under spring tension with the 62 year old original cable. That fit perfectly which leads me to conclude it's the replacement cable, not my Bugeye that is incorrect. Mike M On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 5:01 AM miniac7 (null) wrote: > BugeyeGuy shows one on their web site. I?d be very surprised if they stock > one that doesn?t fit. > > Howard Collins > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 31, 2022, at 6:44 AM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > Ok, thanks. > > On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 3:38 AM Ron Soave wrote: > >> Hey Mike, >> >> I might. I?ll check the stuff I got from Frank. I don?t think so, but >> it?s 300 boxes of mostly 67 and prior small bits. Pay it forward? >> >> Ron Soave >> >> On Jan 30, 2022, at 6:52 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> Well, that was fun. >> Mike M >> >> On Sun, Jan 30, 2022 at 4:31 PM Billy Zoom >> wrote: >> >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mImc8cjZW04 >>> >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soavero at yahoo.com >> >> ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/miniac7 at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crusaderchuck55 at aol.com Mon Jan 31 11:30:56 2022 From: crusaderchuck55 at aol.com (crusaderchuck55 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 18:30:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. References: <1136245747.4446841.1643653856252.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1136245747.4446841.1643653856252@mail.yahoo.com> Question,I might have missed this so I shall ask..When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length and actual cable length?Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago??Chuck -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Mon Jan 31 12:37:50 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 11:37:50 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. In-Reply-To: <1136245747.4446841.1643653856252@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1136245747.4446841.1643653856252.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1136245747.4446841.1643653856252@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Chuck, I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut in half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. Mike M On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets < spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > Question, > I might have missed this so I shall ask.. > When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable > next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length > and actual cable length? > Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember > from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? > Chuck > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jan 31 13:30:10 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 15:30:10 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Mike, I measure 19 1/2" from the back of the knob to the tip of the cable. Rick > On Jan 31, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: > > ? > Chuck, > I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut in half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. > Mike M > >> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets wrote: >> Question, >> I might have missed this so I shall ask.. >> When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length and actual cable length? >> Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? >> Chuck >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1680929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Mon Jan 31 14:24:31 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 13:24:31 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rick seems to me from that picture you might get a little more length if you straightened out the cable, or am I seeing it wrong? Mike M On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 12:30 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > Hi Mike, > > I measure 19 1/2" from the back of the knob to the tip of the cable. > > Rick > > > > On Jan 31, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > Chuck, > I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut in > half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and > sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able > to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in > disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back > of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone > has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for > measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob > where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It > needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and > flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is > fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under > spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of > the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire > and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. > Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, > does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be > willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. > Mike M > > On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets < > spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Question, >> I might have missed this so I shall ask.. >> When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable >> next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length >> and actual cable length? >> Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember >> from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? >> Chuck >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com >> > ------------------------ > > spridgets at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation: $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1680929 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1680929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jan 31 14:32:19 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 16:32:19 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Mike, Look closely at the photo. The cable doesn't quite make it to 19 1/2" in the photo, but it does if you straighten out the cable. I couldn't hold the cable and take the photo at the same time. This cable was installed on my car when I bought it in 1968, so I'm pretty sure it's the original starter cable. Rick > On Jan 31, 2022, at 4:24 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > Rick seems to me from that picture you might get a little more length if you straightened out the cable, or am I seeing it wrong? > Mike M > >> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 12:30 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >> Hi Mike, >> >> I measure 19 1/2" from the back of the knob to the tip of the cable. >> >> Rick >> >> >> >>>> On Jan 31, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>> >>> ? >>> Chuck, >>> I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut in half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. >>> Mike M >>> >>>> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets wrote: >>>> Question, >>>> I might have missed this so I shall ask.. >>>> When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length and actual cable length? >>>> Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? >>>> Chuck >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1680929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Mon Jan 31 15:29:18 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 14:29:18 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: OK. Let me put this to rest. Apparently 19 1/2 inches is correct. I can admit when I am wrong, but with an explanation. Of the multitude. I mean, how can you screw up two holes you just pulled something out of and a direct route to the solenoid from the firewall. Of the multiple times I installed and reinstalled this reproduction cable it came out too short. I know the routing of the cable through the dash and firewall was correct. So, when Rick came up with the measurement of an original cable of the same as the reproduction, I went out to the car in the garage to see if I had made a basic mistake from the beginning. In reality, I had not, but for some reason this last time I re-installed the connection I installed the wire first into the connector, then slid it over the shaft of the solenoid. I was completely dumbfounded when it slid over the shaft and stopped when I ran out of slack! I cannot explain it, but every time I installed it prior to this I installed the connector to the shaft first, then tried to slip the cable into the connector. By reversing that sequence, it fits! What the heck? Sorry to get everyone worked up over this today, but I have been struggling with this since yesterday. Still looking to buy an original cable though. The engraving is not exactly the same. Well, I had to find something wrong with it, didn't I? Mike M On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 1:32 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > Hi Mike, > > Look closely at the photo. The cable doesn't quite make it to 19 1/2" in > the photo, but it does if you straighten out the cable. I couldn't hold > the cable and take the photo at the same time. This cable was installed on > my car when I bought it in 1968, so I'm pretty sure it's the original > starter cable. > > Rick > > > On Jan 31, 2022, at 4:24 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > ? > Rick seems to me from that picture you might get a little more length if > you straightened out the cable, or am I seeing it wrong? > Mike M > > On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 12:30 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > >> Hi Mike, >> >> I measure 19 1/2" from the back of the knob to the tip of the cable. >> >> Rick >> >> >> >> On Jan 31, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> ? >> Chuck, >> I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut in >> half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and >> sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able >> to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in >> disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back >> of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone >> has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for >> measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob >> where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It >> needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and >> flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is >> fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under >> spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of >> the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire >> and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. >> Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, >> does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be >> willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. >> Mike M >> >> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets < >> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> Question, >>> I might have missed this so I shall ask.. >>> When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable >>> next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length >>> and actual cable length? >>> Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember >>> from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? >>> Chuck >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com >>> >> ------------------------ >> >> spridgets at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1680929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jan 31 15:37:54 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 17:37:54 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. Message-ID: ? Woohoo! You got it fixed. ? > On Jan 31, 2022, at 5:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > ? > OK. Let me put this to rest. Apparently 19 1/2 inches is correct. I can admit when I am wrong, but with an explanation. Of the multitude. I mean, how can you screw up two holes you just pulled something out of and a direct route to the solenoid from the firewall. Of the multiple times I installed and reinstalled this reproduction cable it came out too short. I know the routing of the cable through the dash and firewall was correct. So, when Rick came up with the measurement of an original cable of the same as the reproduction, I went out to the car in the garage to see if I had made a basic mistake from the beginning. In reality, I had not, but for some reason this last time I re-installed the connection I installed the wire first into the connector, then slid it over the shaft of the solenoid. I was completely dumbfounded when it slid over the shaft and stopped when I ran out of slack! I cannot explain it, but every time I installed it prior to this I installed the connector to the shaft first, then tried to slip the cable into the connector. By reversing that sequence, it fits! What the heck? Sorry to get everyone worked up over this today, but I have been struggling with this since yesterday. Still looking to buy an original cable though. The engraving is not exactly the same. Well, I had to find something wrong with it, didn't I? > Mike M > > On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 1:32 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >> Hi Mike, >> >> Look closely at the photo. The cable doesn't quite make it to 19 1/2" in the photo, but it does if you straighten out the cable. I couldn't hold the cable and take the photo at the same time. This cable was installed on my car when I bought it in 1968, so I'm pretty sure it's the original starter cable. >> >> Rick >> >> >>> On Jan 31, 2022, at 4:24 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>> ? >>> Rick seems to me from that picture you might get a little more length if you straightened out the cable, or am I seeing it wrong? >>> Mike M >>> >>> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 12:30 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>>> Hi Mike, >>>> >>>> I measure 19 1/2" from the back of the knob to the tip of the cable. >>>> >>>> Rick >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Jan 31, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>>> ? >>>>> Chuck, >>>>> I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut in half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. >>>>> Mike M >>>>> >>>>> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets wrote: >>>>>> Question, >>>>>> I might have missed this so I shall ask.. >>>>>> When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length and actual cable length? >>>>>> Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? >>>>>> Chuck >>>>>> ------------------------ >>>>>> >>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>>> >>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>> >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com >>>>> ------------------------ >>>>> >>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1680929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From springer.mike51 at gmail.com Mon Jan 31 15:40:47 2022 From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 14:40:47 -0800 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, red faced and all. M On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 2:38 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > ? > Woohoo! You got it fixed. ? > > On Jan 31, 2022, at 5:29 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > ? > OK. Let me put this to rest. Apparently 19 1/2 inches is correct. I can > admit when I am wrong, but with an explanation. Of the multitude. I mean, > how can you screw up two holes you just pulled something out of and a > direct route to the solenoid from the firewall. Of the multiple times I > installed and reinstalled this reproduction cable it came out too short. I > know the routing of the cable through the dash and firewall was correct. > So, when Rick came up with the measurement of an original cable of the same > as the reproduction, I went out to the car in the garage to see if I had > made a basic mistake from the beginning. In reality, I had not, but for > some reason this last time I re-installed the connection I installed the > wire first into the connector, then slid it over the shaft of the > solenoid. I was completely dumbfounded when it slid over the shaft and > stopped when I ran out of slack! I cannot explain it, but every time I > installed it prior to this I installed the connector to the shaft first, > then tried to slip the cable into the connector. By reversing that > sequence, it fits! What the heck? Sorry to get everyone worked up over > this today, but I have been struggling with this since yesterday. Still > looking to buy an original cable though. The engraving is not exactly the > same. Well, I had to find something wrong with it, didn't I? > Mike M > > On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 1:32 PM Rick Fisk wrote: > >> Hi Mike, >> >> Look closely at the photo. The cable doesn't quite make it to 19 1/2" in >> the photo, but it does if you straighten out the cable. I couldn't hold >> the cable and take the photo at the same time. This cable was installed on >> my car when I bought it in 1968, so I'm pretty sure it's the original >> starter cable. >> >> Rick >> >> >> On Jan 31, 2022, at 4:24 PM, Michael MacLean >> wrote: >> >> ? >> Rick seems to me from that picture you might get a little more length if >> you straightened out the cable, or am I seeing it wrong? >> Mike M >> >> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 12:30 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >> >>> Hi Mike, >>> >>> I measure 19 1/2" from the back of the knob to the tip of the cable. >>> >>> Rick >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jan 31, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets < >>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Chuck, >>> I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut >>> in half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and >>> sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able >>> to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in >>> disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back >>> of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone >>> has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for >>> measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob >>> where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It >>> needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and >>> flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is >>> fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under >>> spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of >>> the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire >>> and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. >>> Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, >>> does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be >>> willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. >>> Mike M >>> >>> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets < >>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote: >>> >>>> Question, >>>> I might have missed this so I shall ask.. >>>> When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable >>>> next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length >>>> and actual cable length? >>>> Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember >>>> from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? >>>> Chuck >>>> ------------------------ >>>> >>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com >>>> >>> ------------------------ >>> >>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1680929 bytes Desc: not available URL: From refisk at chartermi.net Mon Jan 31 15:54:49 2022 From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2022 17:54:49 -0500 Subject: [Spridgets] Pull start.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: No need for a red face. :-) Maybe the cable wasn't pushed all the way home when you tried to install it. > On Jan 31, 2022, at 5:41 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > Yes, red faced and all. > M > >> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 2:38 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >> ? >> Woohoo! You got it fixed. ? >> >>>> On Jan 31, 2022, at 5:29 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>>> >>> ? >>> OK. Let me put this to rest. Apparently 19 1/2 inches is correct. I can admit when I am wrong, but with an explanation. Of the multitude. I mean, how can you screw up two holes you just pulled something out of and a direct route to the solenoid from the firewall. Of the multiple times I installed and reinstalled this reproduction cable it came out too short. I know the routing of the cable through the dash and firewall was correct. So, when Rick came up with the measurement of an original cable of the same as the reproduction, I went out to the car in the garage to see if I had made a basic mistake from the beginning. In reality, I had not, but for some reason this last time I re-installed the connection I installed the wire first into the connector, then slid it over the shaft of the solenoid. I was completely dumbfounded when it slid over the shaft and stopped when I ran out of slack! I cannot explain it, but every time I installed it prior to this I installed the connector to the shaft first, then tried to slip the cable into the connector. By reversing that sequence, it fits! What the heck? Sorry to get everyone worked up over this today, but I have been struggling with this since yesterday. Still looking to buy an original cable though. The engraving is not exactly the same. Well, I had to find something wrong with it, didn't I? >>> Mike M >>> >>>> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 1:32 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>>> Hi Mike, >>>> >>>> Look closely at the photo. The cable doesn't quite make it to 19 1/2" in the photo, but it does if you straighten out the cable. I couldn't hold the cable and take the photo at the same time. This cable was installed on my car when I bought it in 1968, so I'm pretty sure it's the original starter cable. >>>> >>>> Rick >>>> >>>> >>>>>> On Jan 31, 2022, at 4:24 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: >>>>>> >>>>> ? >>>>> Rick seems to me from that picture you might get a little more length if you straightened out the cable, or am I seeing it wrong? >>>>> Mike M >>>>> >>>>>> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022, 12:30 PM Rick Fisk wrote: >>>>>> Hi Mike, >>>>>> >>>>>> I measure 19 1/2" from the back of the knob to the tip of the cable. >>>>>> >>>>>> Rick >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Jan 31, 2022, at 2:39 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> ? >>>>>>> Chuck, >>>>>>> I can't tell you exactly. The original 62 year old cable was cut in half when it contacted the negative battery brown wire. The cable and sheath were welded together in each half where it was cut. I might be able to find the pieces, but I threw them away in my shop waste basket in disgust. I would be interested to find out the measurement from the back of the black knob to the tip of the braided cable of an original if someone has one. It would be easy to just loosen the set screw and pull it out for measurement. The reproduction measures 19 1/2 inches from the black knob where it sits flush against the dash fitting to the tip of the cable. It needs another 1/4 inch to sit in the connector on the starter solenoid and flush against the dash with no play. That also means the connector is fully engaged with the shaft on the starter solenoid without being under spring tension. I have made the repro work, but I had to pull the shaft of the solenoid out about a 1/4 inch to get good engagement of both the wire and the solenoid shaft which means it sits under spring tension at rest. Something that was not necessary with the original 62 year old cable. So, does anyone have an original cable in or out of the car they would be willing to measure? Of course my offer to buy an original still stands. >>>>>>> Mike M >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Mon, Jan 31, 2022 at 10:31 AM crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets wrote: >>>>>>>> Question, >>>>>>>> I might have missed this so I shall ask.. >>>>>>>> When physically laying old ( in spite of a slight bit of trying?) Cable next to the new one , how much difference is there in the shielding length and actual cable length? >>>>>>>> Reason I ask is this is bringing back something I kinda/sorta remember from my Bugeye when it was reassembled over 25 years ago?? >>>>>>>> Chuck >>>>>>>> ------------------------ >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/springer.mike51 at gmail.com >>>>>>> ------------------------ >>>>>>> >>>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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