[Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch

[David Lieb]

0.172"???
Seems rather tiny...

On Sun, Jul 11, 2021, 08:17 Ron Soave via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I made a “gauge” a few years ago after the late great Paul A and I talked
> about this. .172” was the magic number.
>
> Ron Soave
>
> On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:24 PM, Rick Fisk via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> 
> Hi Phil,
>
> 3/8" movement at the slave should be enough.  Here is a video that I made
> a couple of years ago that shows a properly working clutch on a 1275.
>
> Rick
>
> <Video.MOV>
>
>
> On Jul 10, 2021, at 11:08 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> 
> Well,   Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed
> catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the
> classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a
> proper pedal.  That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the
> slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder.
> Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and
> 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure
> displacement at each end.
>
> Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out
> bearing
>
> Any thoughts on where to look next?  Time to get and adapter to used the
> smaller cylinder from the 1098?  Has that been done by anyone who can share
> how they did it?
>
> Thanks, Phil
>
> On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas at msn.com> wrote:
>
>  Great question on the movement distance.  I did not measure it and at
> this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement
> or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did
> reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put
> the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can.
>
> Thanks, Phil
>
> On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel <aseippel at austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues
> the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release
> bearing arm?
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> *From:* Spridgets <spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net> * On Behalf Of *Phil
> Sarikas via Spridgets
> *Sent:* Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM
> *To:* spridgets at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch
>
>
>
> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be.
> The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage
> transmission.  At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been
> replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car.
>
>
>
> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce
> the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the
> transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the
> clutch hydraulic system.
>
>
>
> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly
> not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to
> pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only
> get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and
> restarting it in reverse.  Not a place I can stay.  I bled it as completely
> as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again.  I wish I could say it was
> better, but no real change.
>
>
>
> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of
> pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the
> master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master
> cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder.  As I wait for the local shop to
> open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that
> some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the
> 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the
> hydraulic part work?  There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier
> cars?  I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter
> to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe
> (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave
> cylinder (adaptor would need to be male).  Is there such an adapter off the
> shelf?
>
>
>
> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than
> perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal?  I did check with a camera, I
> am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not
> enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission.
>
>
>
> Open to any and all input!
>
>
>
> Thanks, Phil
>
>
>
> Thanks, Phil
>
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