[Spridgets] Brake Bleed From Hell Yesterday!

Sat Jun 29 06:49:49 MDT 2019

Mike,
That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are they standard?

Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I had
the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting back to the books and school
of hard knocks. What a mistake I made.
Linda

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike Myers <mdmyersct at gmail.com> wrote:

> Lin,
>
> If you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing that
> wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past the
> seal. You may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and cap it
> off so pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some brakes
> to move it around
>
> Mike Myers
>
> On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the Mityvac
> pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it was
> better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to clear
> the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I get
> all my new parts I'll require a list to learn that adjustment.
>
> Three new questions:
>
> 1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum back
> on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle will
> I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads stop
> the car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?
>
> 2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another for
> temporary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists
> several sizes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have an
> upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see
> pics attached).
>
> 3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but with
> wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I recall
> doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pads in
> to get back on the disc.
>
> Again thanks for all your help Lester and to all the List,
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio <oldsaabguy at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> First, using your “oh so shitty’ Mityvac, you did put some grease around
>> the nipple being bled right?  It’s important as air will come in through
>> the threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from the
>> master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven’t had much luck with Mityvacs
>> either FWIW.
>>
>> Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.
>>
>> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back on
>> needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly to
>> get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge
>> of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won’t help
>> things.
>>
>> Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.
>>
>> Lester
>>
>>
>> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> List,
>> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes
>> just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful
>> which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on any
>> car project especially a Spridget.
>>
>> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get my
>> Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage and
>> in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will be
>> leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our family
>> in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>>
>> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder
>> device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for
>> longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with
>> Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
>> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac
>> container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on the
>> drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to the
>> passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to the
>> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) and
>> it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I was
>> done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still didn't
>> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don't
>> fix what is not broken).
>>
>> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would
>> not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed
>> the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push
>> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a
>> sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder
>> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable
>> to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very
>> squishy peddle.
>>
>> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again
>> and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads
>> aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller
>> to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After
>> tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get
>> the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether
>> side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed up last
>> night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>>
>> Questions:
>> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum back
>> on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything?
>> I'll assume yes.
>>
>> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street
>> under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder
>> locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the
>> good parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work
>> through the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>>
>> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or
>> put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>>
>> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed with
>> this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.
>> Linda
>> 62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>> ------------------------
>>
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>>
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>>
>
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"Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
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