[Spridgets] Brake Bleed From Hell Yesterday!

Tue Jul 2 05:55:24 MDT 2019

Thanks Bob,
I just received a detailed list from Gerard and I'm good to go. I am in the
process of getting the speed bleeders today and I get it, MC cap on because
it has a vent, drums on and dial drum wheel cylinders all the way on with
hand break on bleed and check for fluid.

I have Haynes and Leyland manual as well as 10 other Spridget books, I will
get it and do it right no matter what.
Thanks, updates soon.
Linda

On Sun, Jun 30, 2019 at 8:25 PM Bob Spruck <raspruck at gmail.com> wrote:

> Linda:
>
> In my humble opinion, you are going through an awful lot of extra
> aggravation, some of which will result in big problems, i.e. pushing the
> brake pedal with the drum off and therefore not containing the expanding
> cylinders. As I recommended a few emails ago, Speed Bleeders do away with
> many of the issues you have been experiencing. Install them, crack one open
> or even all of them at the same time, put a tube on them, catch the
> overflow in a container, open the cap, pump the brake pedal by yourself,
> check occasionally for low level in master cylinder, re-pump the pedal,
> check for crud in the containers, close them back up. Done! I've used them
> on both my '72 Midget for 30 years and my '67 Midget vintage race car for
> almost 30 years. I bled the brakes on the race car very frequently, of
> course. No problems. Almost all the racers I know use them because of their
> reliability, ease of use and effectiveness. As you can see, I am a
> believer! I don't like the idea of pressurizing the system more than what
> happens with a pedal push. I have never heard any complaints with Speed
> Bleeders. They also work on the clutch slave cylinder.
>
> Make sure you look at the diagrams of the orientation of the brake shoes
> and the return springs in your Haynes manual or on line. If the shoes are
> not positioned correctly or the springs are oriented wrong or hooked into
> the wrong hole in the shoe, you'll have major problems. Also make sure the
> adjuster and the two wedges are not worn and are free and clear. Use
> Brake-Clean. Test their operation before you reassemble the whole system.
> The hand brake bracket positioning is also critical.
>
> I do hope you have a Haynes manual or equivalent to help you figure it out.
>
> Remember - your life depends on the brake system working correctly. Good
> luck.
>
> Bob Spruck
>
> On 6/29/2019 8:49 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets wrote:
>
> Mike,
> That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are they standard?
>
> Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I had
> the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting back to the books and school
> of hard knocks. What a mistake I made.
> Linda
>
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike Myers <mdmyersct at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Lin,
>>
>> If you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing that
>> wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past the
>> seal. You may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and cap it
>> off so pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some brakes
>> to move it around
>>
>> Mike Myers
>>
>> On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the Mityvac
>> pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it was
>> better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to clear
>> the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I get
>> all my new parts I'll require a list to learn that adjustment.
>>
>> Three new questions:
>>
>> 1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum
>> back on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle
>> will I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads
>> stop the car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?
>>
>> 2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another for
>> temporary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists
>> several sizes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have an
>> upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see
>> pics attached).
>>
>> 3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but
>> with wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I
>> recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the
>> pads in to get back on the disc.
>>
>> Again thanks for all your help Lester and to all the List,
>> Linda
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio <oldsaabguy at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> First, using your “oh so shitty’ Mityvac, you did put some grease around
>>> the nipple being bled right?  It’s important as air will come in through
>>> the threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from the
>>> master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven’t had much luck with Mityvacs
>>> either FWIW.
>>>
>>> Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.
>>>
>>> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back
>>> on needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly
>>> to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the
>>> edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won’t
>>> help things.
>>>
>>> Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.
>>>
>>> Lester
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> List,
>>> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes
>>> just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful
>>> which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on any
>>> car project especially a Spridget.
>>>
>>> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get
>>> my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage
>>> and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will
>>> be leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our
>>> family in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>>>
>>> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder
>>> device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for
>>> longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with
>>> Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
>>> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac
>>> container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on the
>>> drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to the
>>> passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to the
>>> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) and
>>> it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I was
>>> done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still didn't
>>> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don't
>>> fix what is not broken).
>>>
>>> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would
>>> not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed
>>> the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push
>>> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a
>>> sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder
>>> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable
>>> to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very
>>> squishy peddle.
>>>
>>> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac
>>> again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the
>>> pads aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel
>>> puller to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place.
>>> After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment
>>> to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on
>>> ether side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed up
>>> last night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>>>
>>> Questions:
>>> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum
>>> back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking
>>> anything? I'll assume yes.
>>>
>>> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street
>>> under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder
>>> locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the
>>> good parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work
>>> through the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>>>
>>> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or
>>> put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>>>
>>> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed with
>>> this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.
>>> Linda
>>> 62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>>>
>>
>> --
>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>>
>> <IMG_1589.JPG>
>>
>> <IMG_1590.JPG>
>>
>> ------------------------
>>
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>>
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>
> --
> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>
> ------------------------
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>
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"Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
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