[Spridgets] Tie Rod Removal

[Bob Kitterer]

Damm, how age makes everything seem like it was just yesterday.  That means the twenty year restoration anniversary for my Bugeye is coming up - - -  ye gads.  It only seems like a couple or so years ago the we were back at Sprite Spree with Frank and the gang.

From the sounds of what you are doing that will be a great front end.  It will be interesting to see what differences you note in the ride/handling when you are done.

Bob  and Dolores

1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Mk IV in disguise)
1966 Austin Healey Sprite Mk III (Trevor) - still in boxes
2013 Miata
2017 Mazda CX9

> On Oct 26, 2017, at 9:13 AM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Bob,
>      It's been 17 years since I completed the restoration of my Bugeye.  Mechanically speaking it was not really in dire need of a rebuild.  The threaded pin in the lower A-arms unscrewed easily because there was only 7000 actual miles since the restoration.  I may have overstated the rebuild aspect of this.  My actual deaire in the beginning was to change the lower A-arms from the original Bugeye ones to the later version so I could install an anti roll bar.  It then became a rebuild when the gentleman that sold me the lower A-arms recommended polyurethane bushings.  His lower A-arms were desirable because he welds a fitting on the threaded socket that usually has a blank plug to accept a zerk fitting.  I wanted to lubricate the pin from both ends as well as install a roll bar.  Further, he also fits delrin washers either side of the kingpin instead of the useless cork washers.  This seals off both theaded areas and allows separate lubrication and does a better job keeping the grease in.  My "rebuild the whole front end" remark was just out of frustration because the way the list members chided me for thinking about re-using the tie rod ends.  As I got into the dismantling of the assembly I just decided to change the flexible brake lines also.  When I found the 1 inch of free movement before resistance in the shock arm I thought I needed to rebuild the shocks too.  This just sounded like a total rebuild.  Since talking to Russ Thompson from Northridge (he rebuilt my BN 2 trans) I may not have to rebuild the shocks.  He reminded me that the shocks need to be topped up on specific intervals with shock oil.  He said while the shock arm is free too fill it with oil and work the arm up and down, then put some more in. When that works the oil down into the shock, do it again until it is full.  I had the shocks rebuilt by Peter at Worldwide.  Peter said they would not leak after his rebuild because of the seal he used on the arm shaft.  Well, maybe they still do. Anyway finding some things loose like the bullet shaped rubber buffer and the nut on the cotter pin in the lower A-arms finger tight  and the rubber boots on the steering rack cracked open was a wake up call that the front suspension needed some maintenance to say the least.  Maybe not rebuild, but a lot of neglected maintenance to say the least.  
> Mike
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android>
> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 1:11 AM, Bob Kitterer via Spridgets
> <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
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