[Spridgets] Sprite fan temp switch testing - LONG

[Hal Faulkner]

Daniel,

Sorry,I don't have a source; however, if this plug is to go into the
aluminum (I mean aluminium) bung you might want to reconsider the use of an
aluminium plug, as aluminum on aluminum can gall and cause some very
unpleasant results when you attempt to remove it.

Hal

On Wed, Apr 26, 2017 at 1:41 PM, WeslakeMonza1330--- via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi list,
>
> Since the list seems quite quiet these days I thought I'd post something
> that might be of interest.  I replaced the 20+ year old aluminium alloy
> radiator in my 69 Sprite a couple of months back with a similar aluminium
> alloy radiator that I'd drilled a hole for and had a weld bung welded to
> (duh it was supposed to be made with this!) for a radiator temp sensor.  I
> made appropriate wiring modifications including fitting a relay (so as not
> to draw the full fan current across the sensor switch (no such relay exists
> for the toggle switch!) for the sensor but leaving in place the decades old
> toggle switch as a manual override.  Having fitted a brand new switch and
> found it did nothing I tested it in boiling water with a jury-rigged test
> set up and when it still did nothing I returned it for a replacement.  Fast
> forward to this evening when I decided rather than sit in front of this PC
> I'd test both the replacement switch and another one with a different
> (lower) temp switching range.  Here's the results:
>
>
> For the first test I used a saucepan of water being heated on a domestic
> gas cooker hob with an 88-79 switch wired to a 9V battery (of unknown
> condition) and a brand new Draper test light, and proved the switch worked
> (more than can be said for its brand new predecessor) at about boiling
> point, albeit it seemed to switch off abruptly.  The second test only
> using a 82-68 sensor was more encouraging with a clear on and slower off
> although the on point seemed similar
>
> The 88-79 switch was fitted to my Sprite and the car run up to temperature
> and with a temperature gauge reading of 115C the fan had not been switched
> on by the sensor so I used the manual override switch until the gauge
> reading dropped below 90C.  I then removed the 88-79 switch and replaced
> it with the 82-68 switch and ran the engine whereupon the fan was switched
> by the sensor at about 112C and was switched off at about 100C (it may have
> been 98C and thus 14C between on and off as expected).
>
> With testing finished I concluded that the coolant temp in the top of the
> rad is probably a lot lower than the coolant temp in the cyl head (where
> the temp gauge sensor is fitted).  It might have been an idea to have
> fitted the sensor lower down in the rad.  It’s possible both sensors
> switch on at a temp much higher than their design states, based on my
> boiling in a saucepan test and practical testing.  Not least I’ll be
> buying a switch with an even lower switching range.
>
> Finally - I know my STACK water temp gauge will also switch the fan (and I
> have a spare relay for that purpose) but I wanted to get the temp sensor
> working first.
>
> Final, finally - anyone know of a solurce to buy a neat Aluminium alloy
> M22x1.5 rad plug because the nylon ones are rubbish and I don't want a
> steel or brass one.
>
> Regards
>
>
>
> Daniel
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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