[Spridgets] Throttle cable clean & lube suggestions?

Mon Jun 13 08:23:25 MDT 2016

OK Hal I'll swap my new battery from my truck and see if that helps just
prior to buying  anew battery but I'll get some readings today.
As for the light going on I meant I used and inline tester looks like the
linked image below. I unplugged the facet pump power from the fuse box on
my Sprite to one end and the other end touched the positive terminal of the
battery. The light went on which I thought indicates current is traveling
through the pump to ground on the pump. So that must mean I have no short
circuit on the pump right? Or am I totally wrong.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/cti/85599-007.jpg

Lin

PS I've made loads of stupid mistakes before and some 2 times around.
Hopefully I'll figure this out with the help of the Spridget list before I
start shelling out lots of money on new wiring harness and fuse box because
I need to know and see what is failing along with understanding how it all
works. Any long videos on how electricity works on our old cars send me the
link.

On Mon, Jun 13, 2016 at 7:39 AM, Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Lin,
> Not sure what you mean by,"if the light goes on...."
> Electrical problems can be very frustrating, voltages that seem good may
> drop under load as resistance from bad connections causes Ohm's Law to come
> into play in a big way.
> Sometimes the solution doesn't seem obvious at all: I once replaced a
> starter twice,before I took my mechanic's advice and replaced the battery
> cables!  Took me quite a while to live that down.
> Earlier you said the battery was at 12 Volts, this seems a bit low as a
> fully charged battery should be closer to 14 Volts.
> I would still expect the fuel pump to work, but if you have a fresh
> battery that you can swap in temporarily it might prove informative.
> Hal
>
> On Mon, Jun 13, 2016 at 2:08 AM, Linda Grunthaner <grunthaner at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hal,
>> I've got a multimeter, OK will do. I did get the continuity tester light
>> to light and now thinking how stupid I should have tried to pull the
>> starter as that's how I would know if the starter works. I will clean all
>> connectors and test with multimeter and use heavy gauge wire now can I go
>> directly to the battery then pull the starter to test the starter? I will
>> get a new battery if needed.
>> Lin
>>
>> PS if the light goes on via pump power doesn't it mean the pump is in
>> working condition?
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 11:17 PM, Hal Faulkner via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Lin, Do you have a multi meter?  Since you are getting multiple symptoms
>>> I would begin by checking ALL ground connections. Do you have electrical
>>> power to the pump?  (measure between the hot lead and ground with the
>>> ignition on, but not trying to start the car.)  If so, check between the
>>> return line from the pump and ground.  Look carefully at the wiring harness
>>> for places where the smoke might have escaped, does the tape covering the
>>> harness look like it might have gotten hot and melted anywhere?  Do you
>>> have a wiring diagram?   Make as big a copy as you can and trace the wires
>>> leading to the fuel pump and anything else that is not working properly.
>>> Inspect these wires thoroughly for signs of damage.
>>> Have a beer and relax, come back to it tomorrow.
>>> You can do it.
>>> Hal
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 2:12 PM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The list serve is super slow many messages not getting through the
>>>> cable works but new pump not getting power. I broke down a mile away. Can I
>>>> run the line directly to the battery to test if it's shot? I'm thinking if
>>>> the fuse to the pump is still good it should work. One fuse blew at the box
>>>> and I replaced it. I now have headlights but still no pump.
>>>>
>>>> Lin
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 4:37 PM, CosmicMag1380 <cosmicmag1380 at gmail.com
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Depending on the cable, it may have a metal collar on either end.
>>>>> Generally, the carb side will wear into the collar and cause sticking
>>>>> issues. Inspect it if it has the collar at the end. Look closely for a
>>>>> cable sized wear spot on the flat where the cable comes through. Check for
>>>>> wear on the cable too! If a wire wears through it can bend and cause
>>>>> sticking.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
>>>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi List,
>>>>>> Giving some well needed love to little Pinky today. Any suggestions
>>>>>> for the best cleaning and lubricant for my throttle cable? It doesn't snap
>>>>>> back freely and I suspect dirt and grime.
>>>>>> Lin
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Spammers go home!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Kent
>>>>> 1960 Bugeye
>>>>> 1983 Garage full of spridget parts!
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>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
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>>
>>
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>>
>
>
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