[Spridgets] Spridget rear axle

HealeyRick healeyrik at gmail.com
Wed Sep 16 19:56:30 MDT 2015


Mike,

Not sure if this is any help.  If you replace the Singer diff with the
Sprite one, you can adjust the length of the Sprite wire wheel axles.  Air
chisel the welch plug from the wire wheel hub and you can press the axle in
or out to suit.  Then replace with a new welch plug or even a rubber ball
to keep the fluid in. Hope this helps

On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 2:56 PM, Mike Rambour via Spridgets <
spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

>  Since I put in a 1098 motor/gearbox into my Singer, I am considering
> going from a Singer rear axle to a Spridget rear axle to improve freeway
> speeds.
>
>  The Singer rear is 5.25 ratio and I have  4.22 Spridget rear sitting
> around, I also am thinking of a 3.9 if I can find one.
>
>  So, I found a article written by someone (who am I trying to contact via
> snail mail) that says the BMC/MOWOG A-series diff carrier will fit into a
> Singer housing with both housings having the same number of bolts and PCD.
> The machining to make it fit is super minor, just a few thousands taken off
> the carrier diameter where it slides into the housing OR opening up the
> Singer housing those few thou.
>
>  The confusing part for me is the next statement "The number of splines is
> different between the 2 makes of axles, the axles can be cut and the MOWOG
> splined end joined to the Singer part with the flange"  This implies to me
> cutting and welding the axles which may increase the chances of breaking
> axles.
>
>  What I was hoping to do when I started this project was find Spridget
> wire wheel axles and cut new splines into them but I now think they may be
> too short for that, the Sprite axles are going to only be a tiny bit longer
> (exact difference is unknown to me at this time) and that may be why he is
> suggesting cutting and welding.   My experience with welded axles is not
> good but I have to admit that the welds were done back in the 1960's by
> some backyard welder on a previous car, perhaps a pro would be fine.
> Another thought would be to take both axles to a shop and $pend lot$ of
> money to have new axles made with Singer ends on one end and Sprite on the
> other, these would be much stronger but since I am only fitting a 1098 I
> think its overkill.  I am also concerned that assuming I can cut new
> splines in the Sprite axles the other end might not fit/work, I don't know
> how the bearing carrier, etc. attaches so perhaps as I type this, maybe
> welding is better.
>
>  My goal is to use the original Singer rear axle housing and the original
> back plates so I do not have to switch brake parts, I spent a HUGE amount
> of money on new finned aluminum brake drums as per the originals and if I
> swapped axle housings, I would end up with Sprite brakes, trying to stay
> original looking and besides I don't want to throw away the rather large
> sum of cash I spent on the new brake drums.  I did consider using a
> Spridget rear housing also as the rear wheel track is only 1/4" different
> between the 2 cars but the axle housing are several inches different and
> then the back plate issues made it difficult.
>
>  Luckily I do have 2 spare Singer axle shafts sitting out of the car to
> measure and play with but no Sprite axle shafts.
>
>  My ultimate goal is to make this 1934 Singer Le Mans my daily driver so I
> am swapping out the old (beyond rebuild block) motor and putting in
> Spridget components, I only have to drive 7 miles to work, 5.5 of those on
> the freeway or if not feasible stay on city streets and I will not be
> getting rid of my motorcycle for rainy days and when the Singer is not
> running, so not everyday daily driver.
>
>     mike
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
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