[Spridgets] More highway speed for a bugeye?

[derf]

What we call the differential includes the ring and pinion.  The assembly,
or pumpkin, is what he needs.

On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 10:03 AM, <WeslakeMonza1330 at aol.com> wrote:

>  Not exactly!
>
> The differential doesn't change the gearing of the rear axle.  The gearing
> of the rear axle is down to the ring and pinion or what we call over in the
> UK, the crownwheel and pinion.
>
> You want the ring and pinion fitted to the differential component and all
> fitted together in the differential as a single large component - what I
> believe you call the pumpkin.  Probably your best bet is to simply buy a
> good 3.9 from Alan Fisher who is having a clear out.
>
> Changing the axle ratio doesn't improve the performance of the car it
> simply changes the gearing. To reduce the engine rpm for any given speed in
> 4th gear you need to replace the 4.22 diff with the 3.9 diff or fit a 5
> speed gearbox with either.
>
> If your car is struggling to maintain 70 mph you need to understand if
> this is because the engine is really revving out (might have a diff lower
> than a 4.2 like a 4.5 or lower from a Morris Minor or whatever) or if the
> engine is simply not running well enough to get up the required revs.
>
> Regards
>
> Daniel
>
> PS: there are books with this stuff in...
>
>  In a message dated 10/05/2015 15:51:41 GMT Daylight Time,
> spridgets at autox.team.net writes:
>
>
> You only need the Differential which goes inside the pumpkin and rear
> axle.  As Derf said you want one that has 10/39 on the top of the
> differential case but check yours first to see which you have now!  There
> were at least 3 available. Early cars were 4.22 to 1,  then there is 3.9 to
> 1 and the shorter 4.22 to 1.  The 4.22 is great for autocross -  the taller
> geared 3.77 for highway use.  As was noted, the taller gears are getting
> hard to find and usually demand a suitable hunk of cash.
>
> If you find a 3.9 or 3.77 that's inside a rear axle case and the seller
> won't part it out, buy the whole thing.  You'll need help picking it up!!
> DAMHIK....
>
> Cheers!
> Jim
>
> On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 9:29 AM, derf via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I know the basics but will have to defer on the details.  This is where
>> Frank would chime in and sort it all out.  There are others who know and
>> share, but none like him.  Really miss that guy.
>>
>> On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 9:22 AM, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets <
>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>>  So if I go to carlisle import show next weekend what should I be on
>>> the lookout for or what should I avoid?  looking for rear pumpkin or whole
>>> rear axle? how can I tell if possible whats good and whats crap?
>>> Thanks
>>> Ryan
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From: *"derf" <derf247 at gmail.com>
>>> *To: *"Ryan Kubanoff" <ryan.kubanoff at comcast.net>
>>> *Cc: *"spridgets" <spridgets at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent: *Sunday, May 10, 2015 8:39:29 AM
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Spridgets] More highway speed for a bugeye?
>>>
>>>
>>> You might also look into stronger axle shafts while you're doing rear
>>> end work.  Any Spridget diff chunk should fit in your rear housing.  Just
>>> drop the drive shaft, pop the axles out, and swap the chunk.  Diff ratios
>>> are stamped on top of the chunk.  "10/39" is 3.9. IIRC "9/38" is what you
>>> would have on your 4.22.
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 10, 2015 at 5:59 AM, ryan.kubanoff--- via Spridgets <
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>  So i have a 74 midget with a 1275, rib case, and a stock rear that
>>>> will do 70+ on a highway no problem.  Last year I bought a 60 bugeye that
>>>> was modiifed by the previous owner to have a 998 cc motor, rib case  and a
>>>> stock bugeye rear.  It has more trouble with highway speeds.  Could I swap
>>>> out the stock bugeye rear for a late model midgets?  Would that improve
>>>> performance?
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Ryan
>>>>
>>>
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