[Spridgets] 995 Huffaker race engine question

Rick Fisk refisk at chartermi.net
Mon Mar 30 11:50:22 MDT 2015


The 948 road draft tube may not be enough.  Also, the road draft tube really only works when the car is going down the road.  The end of the tube is cut at an angle which causes a slight vacuum in the tube and draws vapors out of the engine.  Sitting in your garage running = no vacuum in the tube. 

Which car is this motor going in?  Red Bugeye, grey Sprite, or a Seven?

Sent from my keyboard

> On Mar 30, 2015, at 12:54 PM, lotuspilot--- via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Rick and Jim,
> 
> The Huffaker was/is a very tweaked (for its time) A-series 948 that was black crinkle painted and lots of chrome etc as well as 1/8 inch milled off of the block, Arias domed pistons etc.  
> 
> I did something that may have caused this and I will explain.  I purposely used a regular 948cc draught pipe in place of what the Huffaker was originally.  This engine has mucho original chrome goodies such as the tappet covers and the original tappet side cover had what was used on the later 1098cc Spridgets - the canister just like the front on the 1275cc engine but coming out of the tappet cover.  I wonder if that had anything to do with it.  I am going to put that on this evening and put oil back in the Exxon Valdez again - this time kitty litter under it and see what happens.  I may have to do the old trick of putting another crankcase vent in the fuel pump blocking plate.  I just dread having to pull the engine when it is so close.  Everyone keep your fingers crossed!
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, March 30, 2015 12:32 PM, bmwwxman . via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Is the Huffaker built from the standard A series?  If so, there is no rear main seal.  Instead they have a "Scroll" seal on the outside of the rear main bearing.  There is a spiral groove on the rear of the crank shaft which is supposed to *draw* the oil back into the engine.  However, if you have too much crank case pressure the scroll seal can't overcome it and it will weep oil which then collects in the bottom of the bell housing and pours out onto your driveway.  
> 
> Before you pull the engine again, check your crank case pressure.  On my standard 1275 A series I had this problem....  I ended up drilling the side of the block and installing a pressure relief hose into a small K&N filter.  There are a couple of *fixes* for this including a kit that Mo$$ offers to replace the rear scroll seal with a better seal but it ain't cheap.  Another method is a fix whereby you drill a channel into the scroll and the rear main bearing cap and tighten up the tolerance but if you screw that up you are out a rear main cap which is not replaceable because it is line bored.   Don't ask.
> 
> Good luck with it.
> 
> Cheers!!
> Jim 
> 
> On Mon, Mar 30, 2015 at 9:53 AM, lotuspilot--- via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> I was hoping it was just an internal pressure issue.  I may not be so lucky.  I guess that I can change that by pulling the engine and removing the flywheel.  I would love to try the straight cut gearbox somehow if possible.
> 
> Any other ideas.
> 
> Thanks a bunch,
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, March 30, 2015 10:23 AM, lotuspilot--- via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Guys and Gals,
> 
> I just rebuilt a Huffaker race engine that had been stored away for decades.  I started it after the rebuild and all looked well after I discovered that I had the distributor drive gear in 180 out.  That took me a while to figure out until I replaced all of the plug wires 1 went to 4 and 4 went to 1 and 3 to 2 and 2 to 3.
> 
> Ok.  Here is my real question after running for about 20 minutes with varying engine speed, I noticed that about a quart and a half of oil decided it didn't wish to stay in the engine any longer and was being deposited on the driveway by way of the hole in the bottom of the transmission.  What happened here?  What should I check?
> 
> By the way, the engine is running 11.5 :1 compression and all so high compression.  It sounded spectacular.  I am dying to drive it once I get you all to give me some idea of what may have happened.
> 
> Thanks a bunch for all of your thoughts.
> 
> Mike C
> 
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> Jim Johnson
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