[Spridgets] Drum brakes to disc brakes MC question

[WeslakeMonza1330 at aol.com]

If it were me I'd go with option 4.  Option 5 will work but is more  work 
and carries a weight penalty compared to Option 4.
 
 
In a message dated 30/07/2015 21:25:01 GMT Daylight Time,  
spridgets at autox.team.net writes:

Hi  List:
I have a bugeye that I converted to disc brakes years ago.  I  never 
changed out the Master cylinder, and it worked okay, but always had  a 
hard brake pedal.  I now need to replace or rebuild the Master  Cylinder 
due to an issue with the clutch side.  I have looked at a  couple of 
options:
1. rebuild the current MC (some pitting in the  bore that has not honed 
out)  (Cost $12.85 + shipping)
2. buy a  new 7/8" bore MC and have it back the way it was (currently on 
sale) Cost  $98.95 TRW or $197.95 AP + shipping.
3. Buy a new 3/4" MC from Moss (TRW  brand, currently on sale) and 
shorten the push rods  (approx. 36%  easier pedal) Cost $229.95 + shipping
4. Send the 7/8" bore MC to Gerard  for a rebuild to 3/4" and shorten or 
buy shorter push rods. Cost $325 +  shipping both ways
5. Buy a new 7/8" bore MC and add the brake Servo  booster Moss sells to 
give more power without having to modify the   pushrods (this option is 
supposed to give about a 2:1 boost to the brakes)  Cost $98.95 for the MC 
+ $199.95 for the Servo booster+ shipping and a few  pieces of brake line 
to plumb in the servo.

Has anyone on the list  done this last option?  If so, how did it turn out?

Any experience  with the TRW MC vs. the AP?

Suggestions on the best option?  I'm  trying to balance cost vs. the best 
outcome.

Thanks
John  O'Brien
'61 Bugeye
'65  BJ8

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