[Spridgets] brake problems

[an5.sprite at gmail.com]

Steve,

Did you see the recent post with the link to MG/AH brake master rebuild specs? From memory, on the sight they indicate that correct masters for early sprites are hard to get. The issue is the bore size. 

That could be part of your problem. I assume you are using the original single unit with a single brake master and clutch master combined.

If the car is not original this could be a good excuse to upgrade to discs up front. 
Good Luck and welcome to the board.
Steve
Sent from me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Kemple <skemple at tidewater.net>
Sender: spridgets-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 12:20:52 
To: <spridgets at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Spridgets] brake problems

Hi all

I'm a new lister, but not new to LBC's.  I acquired a 61 Bugeye recently and
have been working on brake problems ever since.  Seemed O.K. when I did the
test drive but the brakes seemed weak and the pedal very hard.  I chalked it
up to not being used to 4 wheel drum brakes.

On the first drive after delivery the rear brakes locked up.  Changed the rear
cylinders.  Then the front brakes locked up.  After extensive review of the
archives and discussions with the PO it appears that the car had a newly
rebuilt Master Cylinder and ended up with the wrong push rod resulting in no
free movement.  That has been corrected.  Even after a fairly short drive with
the locked up front brakes, the shoes and cylinders looked pretty much trashed
so I changed them ( shoes and Lockeed type cylinders from Moss).  I have two
problems that I have been struggling with for days.  First, the right front
wheel drum is very tight with the adjusters completely unadjusted.  I can see
no difference in parts.  I even tried changing the shoes and drums from the
left side with no difference.  The other problem is that I can not get a hard
pedal.  I can not detect any leaks and no bubbles when bleeding.  I am using
the wife assist bleed method.  I can pump up the pedal a bit but it is not
close to right.  I let it sit for a couple of days and still no change.  The
front flexible lines are new and the rear one looks new.  Isolation of the
flexible lines has not pointed to a specific problem.  The only other thing to
add is that at one front wheel I found a small amount of fluid inside the drum
back plate but could not detect from where.  I thought it may have been a run
away drip from the bleeding process.  Could it be a hair line crack in a new
wheel cylinder?  I have read just about every brake posting on the archives
looking for an answer.  Any thoughts?

Steve Kemple

AN5
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