[Spridgets] Bearings Replacement

[cathey speichinger]

 1st. is the material magnetic, and have you noticed any other signs of
impending doom with the motor (knocks, different oil pressure, etc..)?  No
the mains cant be done in the car nor can the cam bearing.  Cleaning of the
oil galleries to remove metal fragments is impossible to do in the car,
ditto with measuring all the required parts to determine what needs to be
done to what for a proper rebuild.   OLD stock parts such as bearings can be
had on FleaBay once you know what you need.  Basically, to do the rebuild
right the motor will have to be removed and cleaned and properly refreshed
to provide another 50 years of enjoyment provide it is even to that stage
yet.

Leo
-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bert Shirey
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 9:27 AM
To: spridgets at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spridgets] Bearings Replacement

Hi, Guys and Gals:

     I haven`t contributed to the list on line for a while, but would
welcome
some advice on rod bearing replacement. This is for my 65 Midget 1098 CC-
55,000 miles.

     Last oil change, I noticed a few sparkles in the drained oil. I cut
open
the filter and found some metallic debris. I haven`t dropped the pan yet
before I get my thoughts together, but I`m sure a bearing has failed.

     The engine is smooth and quiet and good oil pressure. 60+ warm at
highway, 25-35 hot idle. The car isn`t run much, so the oil is changed about
twice a year, this filter about 800 miles. I hope whatever happened may have
only recently occurred, maybe due to an excessive fast idle malfunction on
cold start that I neglected. Then, I`ve also heard that 50K miles on
bearings
is about the limit.

      I`ve had the car from new, done all maintenance myself, but not
bearings
before. Live and learn. Plenty questions, but here`s a start.

     What is a source for good quality bearings ? I don`t want to end up
doing
the job twice because of cheap parts that don`t fit and can`t last.

      Will standard size bearings be adequate or will I routinely need
undersize?

      Although I hear that big end rod bearings are the first to give up, is
it possible to remove the crank bearings for inspection without pulling the
engine?

     As a kid, 50 years ago,  I worked at a garage and remember the
mechanics
had some way of doing the crank bearings in the car, even grind the crank in
place. Unfortunately, I didn`t pay attention.

     Should I place sealer on the flange side of the front and rear U seals
or
put them in dry?

     With all those little bolts, I expect getting the pan back in place
without the two-piece gasket moving around is going to be tricky. Is there
some way of making this easier?

     Can I get enough debris out of the out of the motor without stripping
the
oil pump as the manual says?

     The job appears to be pretty straight-forward; although I`ve found that
nothing ends up being easy, particularly the first time. Some of you racers
probably do this in your sleep.

     When the MG is working again, I`m planning to replace the Bugeye
bearings
just as a precaution. As I said, live and learn.

     Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers,


Bert Shirey
65 Midget MK II
60 Bugeye
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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