[Spridgets] Starters, Solenoids, "good" parts, etc.

Linda Grunthaner grunthaner at gmail.com
Thu Jun 17 04:45:18 MDT 2010


Peter,
Thank you so much for this clarification I think I should go with the Ford
conversion solenoid until I get the better one although I am so tempted to
open it up and clean it. Also I will most likely remove the starter and have
the local auto electric shop who did an outstanding job on my generator re
build the starter. BTW his prices are high $150. I think or more but the job
is done and works great : )
Lin
PS Fishing sounds fun ; )

On Wed, Jun 16, 2010 at 4:45 PM, Peter Caldwell <peter at nosimport.com> wrote:

> I probably shouldn't write this, but I've had 10 glorious days in Canadia
> doing the fly-in fishing gig, with no phones or computers. Wonderful.
>
> Anyway,  Starters... yes, they can go bad slowly. They are very easy to
> repair with brushes, unless they go too long and the armatures go bad. Local
> rebuilders can repair them easily, and cheaply. Parts are readily available.
> NEW ones are problematic, and the parts don't interchange.  The biggest
> problems are either a loose cable connection or an improperly tightened
> cable connection. The inner nut must be held while the outer nut is
> tightened.... especially on the starter with the cover band (25022). The
> stud is weakly welded to the 2 hot brushes and this weld will break if the
> stud is allowed to move. The wrench required must be thin and is an odd
> size. 1/4W or nearly 9/16. This connection is often abused resulting in a
> bad connection, premature brush wear, and sparks.
>
> Solenoids.... the cable actuated type, and the later push button type, are
> being made by some place in either India or farther East. It doesn't matter
> much... they're crap. I've gone through several push button ones on my car,
> and they chap my a$$. I had 50, or so, of the original Lucas made in UK that
> I wish I hadn't sold. If you want a "good" one, you'll have to find an older
> one. Nothing in the past 15 years. Now, do you need one? Understand how they
> work? 2 large studs with copper faces that are bridged with a copper strap
> when the cable is pulled, or button pressed, or the electro-magnet is
> energized (switch). That's it! What goes bad with these is that the contact
> surfaces get dirty or pitted. Dirty can be banged clean, even some spray can
> make it in there. Pitted is the result of prolonged contact not made solidly
> either because of cable adjustment or the holding voltage of the ignition
> switch is wanting.
>
> It doesn't matter if you buy the solenoid from me, Ed, Moss, VB, RF, AHS,
> or GOD, if it is new current stock, it's all the same stuff. If you are
> lucky, you might find one that is the older stock. The part number you want
> for the pull type is 76701  That is Lucas' part number. You'll find it
> stamped on the housing. Don't dis these places and their parts because they
> have the current ones and they are crap. TELL THE VENDOR, and maybe they
> will insist on better quality from the manufacturer..... maybe. Maybe you'll
> have to pay more than $34.65.... tell them you are willing to pay $75.00 for
> a properly made one.   Would you?  This is a bigger issue than solenoids,
> btw.
>
>  One of the problems with "our" cars is that the parts are common to other
> cars still current in India, for example, and those parts are made for that
> market, more than for our restorations and occasional use, so looks
> (especially) and quality, um... vary, to be kind.
>
> I gotta go, but had to say this.
>
> Peter C.  oh no, not another fish!
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