[Spridgets] A little brake help?

Mark Haynes haynes386 at netzero.net
Mon Jun 14 08:30:30 MDT 2010


OK guys,
I rebuilt the tandem master in the BE this winter. Found out that it has the
3/4" master (great, perfect for the discs). I referenced Gerard's treatise on
the 3/4" vs 7/8" masters, and was a bit confused when I found that I had the
same length pushrods as the drum brake (7/8") master that originally came out
of the BE. All of the holes were worn on the clevises, as were the pins, so I
matched the length of the pushrods I removed from the master, with those that
were laying about and in good shape, cleaned up the pedals and pedal box from
the BE (with pedal stop bolts!). Bench bleeding went well, installed the
master, bled it out yesterday and took it for a spin.
When the brakes warmed up, they started to bind. So much so that the car
wouldn't move. Got a ride home, brought the van, my eldest AND TOOLS
(DUH!)Backed off the pushrod as much as possible (so its as short as it can
be), as well as the stop bolt, no luck. Opened the bleeder on the front
caliper to relieve the pressure and all was good, towed home with no
problems.
Here's the question- How do I make sure that this doesn't happen without
taking the car out of the garage? Is there a way to tell if the pushrod is
adjusted too long, or is this trial and error? Should I turn 1/2" off of the
pushrod length to match what Gerard shows about the length? The brakes feel
great now, just like the Spit when I was racing. Is the stop bolt position a
major factor, or just an end limit/ pedal positioner?
I understand that this is due to the piston not coming fully out to expose the
relief hole in the master and allow the pressure in the front brakes to bleed
back down. Will this be evident in the garage if you pump the pedal and rock
the car?
Inquiring minds and annoyed spouses want to know....


Mark Haynes
HAN6L12779
HAN5L8016

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