[Spridgets] Clutch won't disengage completely

[Jim Johnson]

Ron & David's suggestions are good. I'd still pressure bleed the system
first just to be sure given the PITA bleeding a new clutch system is.....  I
don't crawl around under the car any more than I have to at 65 years old
with a bad back.

Cheers!!
Jim


On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 8:43 PM, David Riker <davriker at nwi.net> wrote:

> Have him look for wear at all of the pivot points.  The hole in the pedal,
> the clevis pin between the pedal and the master push rod, the hole in the
> push rod, the hole in the slave push rod, the clevis pin at the throw out
> lever, and the hole in the throw out lever.  As the holes oval out, and the
> clevis pins wear out, their combined wear will result in a clutch that won't
> be able to fully disengage due to the extra slop in the system.
>
> Also, there is a flex line between the frame rail and the slave cylinder.
> Old ones are subject to ballooning under hydraulic pressure.  Replace any
> flex line in question, even if it looks fine.
>
> David R.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deikis, John G" <John.Deikis at va.gov>
>
> To: <spridgets at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 1:51 PM
>
> Subject: [Spridgets] Clutch won't disengage completely
>
>
>  I sold my yellow Frankensprite to my brother-in-law.  The clutch has now
>> started to drag. Says he has  a hard time getting it into gear and the
>> gears grind. He has bled the hydraulics thoroughly and swears there are
>> NO bubbles coming out of the bleeder-just clean fluid. He has replaced
>> the master and slave cylinders. He's about ready to pull the motor and
>> eyeball the clutch thinking maybe it could be the throw-out bearing. Any
>> ideas?
>>
>> JohnD