[Spridgets] Troubleshooting advice needed please

Gerard Chateauvieux pixelsmith at gerardsgarage.com
Thu Jun 19 13:56:04 MDT 2008

The other issue is that you do not have a residual valve in the  
clutch bore like you have in the brake bore. Consequently, operating  
the pedal with the bleeder open only moves the fluid back and forth  
until you build some pressure. Other options are to close the bleeder  
while the pedal is held on the downstroke.

My own solution is to run a hard line from the clutch slave, with a  
bleeder at the end of the line, up to an area about the level of the  
battery tray where I can manipulate the bleeder while I'm standing at  
the MC.  I can bleed a clutch that way in about 3 minutes.


On Jun 18, 2008, at 9:47 PM, spridgets-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Brad
> Due to the incline of the clutch master, you really do not have much
> fluid to bleed out before the master sucks air even if there is  
> juice in
> it, the rear end is tilted up and sucks air when it's about 1/2 full.
> Get yourself a lovely assistant to fill the master with each squirt of
> the bleeder.
> Or for best results, use air to power bleed it.
> Get an old cap, pop off the center cover, drill a 1/4" hole in the
> depressed spot where the vent hole is, use a rubber tipped blow gun  
> and
> force the juice thru the system with about 10-15 psi, no more than 20.
> When the are ready to open the bleeder, have the helper start the air
> flow the instant you open it up.
> You will see the juice come out full stream, yell stop to the  
> helper as
> you close the bleeder.
> Do watch the juice level too.
> I gave up the old way, I just power bleed and it usually works the  
> first
> time.
> You can even use the original cap if you do not have a spare, just
> replace the snap in center cap after you drill out the inner part.
> -- 
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ

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