[Spridgets] brake bleeding problems
Marc
smarc at smarc.net
Mon Jul 30 13:04:33 MDT 2007
Ok, getting somewhat aggravated here, this shouldn't be so difficult...
73 midget, complete brake job, all three hoses, new wheel cylinders,
rebuilt calipers, brand new lockheed master. Castrol LMA fluid.
Using a long piece of tubing running from bleeder back to master, and
starting from the longest run to the shortest, bled the system till no
more air bubbles could be seen anywhere. Seemed good with a nice firm
pedal. Car is still on stands, so cant drive it yet. Notice the front
hubs seem locked, can't budge them by hand. Hmmm says I, let me crack
the bleeders on the front and see what happens.
Cracked them just the slightest bit, and the front hubs freed right up.
Once again brake pedal hits the floor with no resistance. Back to where
I started -WTH?! 2 - 3 pumps builds up system pressure again, but it
"just disappears" within moments, pedal will go to the floor. No fluid
leaking, and had good fluid flow from each wheel (as determined by
bleeding).
This isn't the first time I have done this job (albeit previously on
MGB's). Never had any probs like this. What is going on here?
Have gone around multiple times tapping on lines & fittings to remove
trapped air. Have bled using conventional method. Have bled by pump
pedal several times to build pressure, then crack bleeder (closing it
while pedal is held down of course).
Have checked the differential pressure warning switch - it is centered
and working. No, I did not bench bleed the master as I had no fittings
which would work with it. My uneducated guess is that bleeding using
the tubing as I did is pretty much like bench bleeding? We continued to
circulate the fluid for a few minutes after the bubbles had disappeared
thru the entire 12 - 14 feet of tubing... Could there be that much more
air lurking in the system?
--
Marc
I'm taking the time for a number of things that weren't important yesterday...
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