[Spridgets] engine pull/replace

Jim Johnson bmwwxman at gmail.com
Mon Jul 23 22:07:08 MDT 2007


Glen,

I don't quite understand how you used the zip ties.  I gather you
disconnected the drive shaft at the diff but where did you hook the
zip ties to keep the driveshaft yoke from slipping out of the tranny
tail piece?

I've gotta have mine out again this year to fix my Exxon Valdez oil leak...

Cheers!!
Jim - 68 Midget in Dodge City

On 7/23/07, Glen Byrns <grbyrns at ucdavis.edu> wrote:
> I shortcut the engine pull on the turbo bugeye by leaving the trans and
> driveshaft in the car, which I seldom do.  On trying to replace the engine
> this last weekend, as expected, they just wouldn't mate up.  (Yes, I use a
> proper clutch disc centering tool)  I realized that it would be faster to just
> yank out the trans, mate it to the motor out of the car as usual and shove it
> all back in together.  I had it done 30 minutes after I got the trans out.
> Moral of the story:  Its way easier to remove and replace the engine and trans
> together than trying the PITA tranny-stays-in shortcut.
>
> I use a pair of linked zip-ties to attach the driveshaft to the shifter so
> they stay together for the in-and-out.  That way you don't have to drain the
> trans.  I also r/r the clutch slave when the motor/trans are 3/4s of the way
> back in. Ditto the speedo cable.
>
> My theory is that the critical point where the pilotshaft has to enter the
> guide bushing in the crank is the same point where the pan is just slipping
> past the frame crossmember and won't allow the perfect angle to be acheived,
> even with a well dented heater box allowing the trans to be jacked up tight.
>
> If the special valve stem seals arrive from APT in the mail today, my Lake of
> the Ozarks motor will be running by dinner time.
>
> Glen
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-- 
The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools.
-Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903)


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