From C_G_Edwards at Yahoo.ca Wed Jan 2 21:29:10 2013 From: C_G_Edwards at Yahoo.ca (Chad G. Edwards) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 22:29:10 -0600 Subject: [Spits] WTB: Front Spoiler for '79 or '80 Spitfire Message-ID: <001501cde96a$e0fc78e0$a2f56aa0$@Yahoo.ca> I'm looking for a front spoiler for a '79 or '80 Spitfire. If you have one for sale, or know anyone that does, please let me know. Thanks. Chad Edwards 1980 Spitfire - "Winfield" From elliottr at rmi.net Thu Jan 3 05:22:13 2013 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 06:22:13 -0600 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch In-Reply-To: <6B4F8D49-A869-487B-817F-C028AC336815@gmail.com> References: <25073082.1357144950168.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <6B4F8D49-A869-487B-817F-C028AC336815@gmail.com> Message-ID: <50E577F5.4030204@rmi.net> Hi Hans, I have an 80 Federal model. I think I have a couple of wires in that area that were never hooked up and a couple more that I have because of changes to the ignition. If you can send me a picture, I will see if I can figure out what they go to. Roger On 01/02/2013 11:52 AM, HANS DEFERRANTE wrote: > Thanks Roger, > I found it !. As soon as I read your email I remembered It. Do you by any chance have a post '75 California Spit . There are 2 mysterious wire connectors coming out of the wire harness near those relays/flashers on the firewall in the engine bay. Are they intended to connect to EGR test equipment of sorts? The wiring diagram shows some sort of plug connector that seemed to be missing when I bought it but the wire color code is different. > Happy New Year! > Hans From elliottr at rmi.net Sun Jan 6 15:14:15 2013 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2013 16:14:15 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach Message-ID: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> Hi All, I have an 80 Spitfire with an electronic tach. Ever since I have owned it, it takes some time (several seconds) after I start the engine for it to start indicating the rpms. I have always wondered about that but never asked. Is that normal? If so, why would it take time to start indicating rpms? Thanks, Roger From buss3 at rogers.com Sun Jan 6 21:04:37 2013 From: buss3 at rogers.com (Grant Buss) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 23:04:37 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach In-Reply-To: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> Message-ID: <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> Hello I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long as I have had it (close to 20 years). Now idea why. Grant Buss -----Original Message----- From: Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:14 PM To: Spitfire list Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach Hi All, I have an 80 Spitfire with an electronic tach. Ever since I have owned it, it takes some time (several seconds) after I start the engine for it to start indicating the rpms. I have always wondered about that but never asked. Is that normal? If so, why would it take time to start indicating rpms? Thanks, Roger _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/buss3 at rogers.com From vicwhit3 at rogers.com Sun Jan 6 21:20:35 2013 From: vicwhit3 at rogers.com (vicwhit3 at rogers.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 20:20:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach In-Reply-To: <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> Message-ID: <1357532435.80408.YahooMailNeo@web120702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Ditto for my two 76 Spits. Vic Whitmore Do it while you can! ________________________________ From: Grant Buss To: Roger Elliott ; Spitfire list Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2013 10:04:37 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Electronic Tach Hello I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long as I have had it (close to 20 years). Now idea why. Grant Buss -----Original Message----- From: Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:14 PM To: Spitfire list Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach Hi All, I have an 80 Spitfire with an electronic tach. Ever since I have owned it, it takes some time (several seconds) after I start the engine for it to start indicating the rpms. I have always wondered about that but never asked. Is that normal? If so, why would it take time to start indicating rpms? Thanks, Roger _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/buss3 at rogers.com _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/vicwhit3 at rogers.com From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jan 7 03:16:15 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 10:16:15 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach In-Reply-To: <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> Message-ID: <1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> This condition is well-known on the eastern side of the pond and in Standard-Triumph parlance of the day comes into the category of "an i'erent (inherent) fault" I've encountered this condition on many later Spitfires, including one that was under my care for some 18 months. A firm knock on the instrument glass is all that's required to make it work. One surely doesn't expect the rev counter to work well for ever, does one? Jonmac ________________________________ From: Grant Buss To: Roger Elliott ; Spitfire list Sent: Monday, 7 January 2013, 4:04 Subject: Re: [Spits] Electronic Tach >Hello >I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long as I have had it (close to 20 years). >Now idea why. >Grant Buss > >-----Original Message----- From: Roger Elliott >Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:14 PM >To: Spitfire list >Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach > >Hi All, > >I have an 80 Spitfire with an electronic tach. Ever since I have owned >it, it takes some time (several seconds) after I start the engine for >it to start indicating the rpms. > >I have always wondered about that but never asked. Is that normal? If >so, why would it take time to start indicating rpms? > >Thanks, >Roger >_______________________________________________ > >Spitfires at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/buss3 at rogers.com _______________________________________________ > >Spitfires at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From elliottr at rmi.net Mon Jan 7 17:29:33 2013 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 18:29:33 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Electronic Tach In-Reply-To: <1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> <1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50EB686D.2070202@rmi.net> Thanks Everyone! The consensus is that it is normal or at least not unusual, as I suspected. I haven't worried about it, because it always starts up rather soon. But I was curious if it was just mine. Thanks, Roger On 1/7/2013 4:16 AM, John Macartney wrote: > This condition is well-known on the eastern side of the pond and in > Standard-Triumph parlance of the day comes into the category of "an > i'erent (inherent) fault" I've encountered this condition on many > later Spitfires, including one that was under my care for some 18 > months. A firm knock on the instrument glass is all that's required to > make it work. One surely doesn't expect the rev counter to work well > for ever, does one? > Jonmac*From:* Grant Buss > ** > Hello > I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long > as I have had it (close to 20 years). > Now idea why. > Grant Buss From gaf3 at charter.net Fri Jan 11 14:14:42 2013 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 16:14:42 -0500 Subject: [Spits] County Pistons Quality Control Issue Message-ID: <50F080C2.1080007@charter.net> FYI I am in the midst of a TR6 Rebuild with an engine that is .020" overbored. While fitting up the pistons and checking clearances everything checked out and the bore was concentric and to specs. With the piston installed in the bore I noticed increased drag with #1 piston installed. With rings gaps, skirt clearance correct I pulled the piston and didn't see any issues. Further inspection showed that the piston was cocked in the bore and had score marks on the bottom of one skirt with the same wear just below the oil ring on the other side. After inspecting it with the machine shop we noticed that the ring grooves were not fully machined on one side of the piston. The rings would not move far enough in the groove and was proud of the surface causing the piston to cock in the bore. We collectively have not seen this before and have a new set of AE pistons not County on the way. Having spent many years in Automotive Engineering at one of the former Big Three, these events are usually not one of's. There likely are many more out there that ran down the line in the same batch at the same time before it was caught. These are new County Piston sets (I think made in Israel now). I would inspect their parts very closely before you install them. I also noticed machine chips in the machined groove of their Tri-Metal Main Bearings (Israel). The chips were in the machined groove and were plated over with the babbit and copper. I have had very good experiences with their parts in the past. Just thought I would provide a heads up. Glenn From doug at dougbraun.com Fri Jan 11 14:33:05 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 16:33:05 -0500 Subject: [Spits] County Pistons Quality Control Issue In-Reply-To: <50F080C2.1080007@charter.net> References: <50F080C2.1080007@charter.net> Message-ID: Another horror story: A while back I replaced my Spit's rocker arm shaft with the part that most vendors sold. I believe it was "County" branded, and it was made in India. I went to adjust the valves a few days later, and I noticed that the front four rocker arms seemed rather oil-starved. When I ran the engine with the rocker arm cover off, I could see that only the rear four rocker arms were getting lubricated. It turned out that the shaft was not completely hollow: They had rifle-drilled it inwards from each end, but they did not drill deep enough, and the two holes did not meet up in the center. Doug On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 4:14 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > FYI > I am in the midst of a TR6 Rebuild with an engine that is .020" overbored. > While fitting up the pistons and checking clearances everything checked > out and the bore was concentric and to specs. > With the piston installed in the bore I noticed increased drag with #1 > piston installed. > With rings gaps, skirt clearance correct I pulled the piston and didn't > see any issues. > Further inspection showed that the piston was cocked in the bore and had > score marks on the bottom of one skirt with the same wear just below the > oil ring on the other side. > After inspecting it with the machine shop we noticed that the ring grooves > were not fully machined on one side of the piston. > The rings would not move far enough in the groove and was proud of the > surface causing the piston to cock in the bore. > We collectively have not seen this before and have a new set of AE pistons > not County on the way. > > Having spent many years in Automotive Engineering at one of the former Big > Three, these events are usually not one of's. > There likely are many more out there that ran down the line in the same > batch at the same time before it was caught. > > These are new County Piston sets (I think made in Israel now). > I would inspect their parts very closely before you install them. > > I also noticed machine chips in the machined groove of their Tri-Metal > Main Bearings (Israel). > The chips were in the machined groove and were plated over with the babbit > and copper. > > I have had very good experiences with their parts in the past. > Just thought I would provide a heads up. > > Glenn > ______________________________**_________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/spitfires/doug@**dougbraun.com From gaf3 at charter.net Fri Jan 11 15:00:19 2013 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:00:19 -0500 Subject: [Spits] [Fot] County Pistons Taiwan Quality Control Issue In-Reply-To: <50F080C2.1080007@charter.net> References: <50F080C2.1080007@charter.net> Message-ID: <50F08B73.1040504@charter.net> Correction County Pistons are made in Taiwan. On 1/11/2013 4:14 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > FYI > I am in the midst of a TR6 Rebuild with an engine that is .020" > overbored. > While fitting up the pistons and checking clearances everything > checked out and the bore was concentric and to specs. > With the piston installed in the bore I noticed increased drag with #1 > piston installed. > With rings gaps, skirt clearance correct I pulled the piston and > didn't see any issues. > Further inspection showed that the piston was cocked in the bore and > had score marks on the bottom of one skirt with the same wear just > below the oil ring on the other side. > After inspecting it with the machine shop we noticed that the ring > grooves were not fully machined on one side of the piston. > The rings would not move far enough in the groove and was proud of the > surface causing the piston to cock in the bore. > We collectively have not seen this before and have a new set of AE > pistons not County on the way. > > Having spent many years in Automotive Engineering at one of the former > Big Three, these events are usually not one of's. > There likely are many more out there that ran down the line in the > same batch at the same time before it was caught. > > These are new County Piston sets (I think made in Israel now). > I would inspect their parts very closely before you install them. > > I also noticed machine chips in the machined groove of their Tri-Metal > Main Bearings (Israel). > The chips were in the machined groove and were plated over with the > babbit and copper. > > I have had very good experiences with their parts in the past. > Just thought I would provide a heads up. > > Glenn From gaf3 at charter.net Fri Jan 11 15:01:55 2013 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:01:55 -0500 Subject: [Spits] County Pistons Quality Control Issue In-Reply-To: References: <50F080C2.1080007@charter.net> Message-ID: <50F08BD3.9000200@charter.net> Yes the County Rockers are made in India. They usually have better quality control than most. On 1/11/2013 4:33 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > Another horror story: > > A while back I replaced my Spit's rocker arm shaft with the part that > most vendors sold. I believe it was "County" > branded, and it was made in India. I went to adjust the valves a few > days later, and I noticed that the front four rocker arms > seemed rather oil-starved. When I ran the engine with the rocker arm > cover off, I could see that only the rear four rocker > arms were getting lubricated. > It turned out that the shaft was not completely hollow: They had > rifle-drilled it inwards from each end, but they did not drill > deep enough, and the two holes did not meet up in the center. > > Doug > > > On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 4:14 PM, Glenn Franco > wrote: > > FYI > I am in the midst of a TR6 Rebuild with an engine that is .020" > overbored. > While fitting up the pistons and checking clearances everything > checked out and the bore was concentric and to specs. > With the piston installed in the bore I noticed increased drag > with #1 piston installed. > With rings gaps, skirt clearance correct I pulled the piston and > didn't see any issues. > Further inspection showed that the piston was cocked in the bore > and had score marks on the bottom of one skirt with the same wear > just below the oil ring on the other side. > After inspecting it with the machine shop we noticed that the ring > grooves were not fully machined on one side of the piston. > The rings would not move far enough in the groove and was proud of > the surface causing the piston to cock in the bore. > We collectively have not seen this before and have a new set of AE > pistons not County on the way. > > Having spent many years in Automotive Engineering at one of the > former Big Three, these events are usually not one of's. > There likely are many more out there that ran down the line in the > same batch at the same time before it was caught. > > These are new County Piston sets (I think made in Israel now). > I would inspect their parts very closely before you install them. > > I also noticed machine chips in the machined groove of their > Tri-Metal Main Bearings (Israel). > The chips were in the machined groove and were plated over with > the babbit and copper. > > I have had very good experiences with their parts in the past. > Just thought I would provide a heads up. > > Glenn > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/doug at dougbraun.com From gaf3 at charter.net Fri Jan 11 15:41:25 2013 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:41:25 -0500 Subject: [Spits] [Fot] County Pistons Quality Control Issue In-Reply-To: <690F0574-316A-4FFD-9253-09734B72B958@aol.com> References: <50F080C2.1080007@charter.net> <50F08BD3.9000200@charter.net> <690F0574-316A-4FFD-9253-09734B72B958@aol.com> Message-ID: <50F09515.30005@charter.net> The new defective TR6 set I just installed are made in Taiwan. I just looked in my collection of NOS ones and I have 4 new .020" Spit County Pistons and those appear to be made in the UK but they are likely 10-15 yrs old or better. Glenn On 1/11/2013 5:19 PM, Body Wagner wrote: > Where are AE pistons made? > > Boyd C Wagner > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jan 11, 2013, at 5:01 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > >> Yes the County Rockers are made in India. >> They usually have better quality control than most. >> >> On 1/11/2013 4:33 PM, Doug Braun wrote: >>> Another horror story: >>> >>> A while back I replaced my Spit's rocker arm shaft with the part that >>> most vendors sold. I believe it was "County" >>> branded, and it was made in India. I went to adjust the valves a few >>> days later, and I noticed that the front four rocker arms >>> seemed rather oil-starved. When I ran the engine with the rocker arm >>> cover off, I could see that only the rear four rocker >>> arms were getting lubricated. >>> It turned out that the shaft was not completely hollow: They had >>> rifle-drilled it inwards from each end, but they did not drill >>> deep enough, and the two holes did not meet up in the center. >>> >>> Doug >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 4:14 PM, Glenn Franco >> > wrote: >>> >>> FYI >>> I am in the midst of a TR6 Rebuild with an engine that is .020" >>> overbored. >>> While fitting up the pistons and checking clearances everything >>> checked out and the bore was concentric and to specs. >>> With the piston installed in the bore I noticed increased drag >>> with #1 piston installed. >>> With rings gaps, skirt clearance correct I pulled the piston and >>> didn't see any issues. >>> Further inspection showed that the piston was cocked in the bore >>> and had score marks on the bottom of one skirt with the same wear >>> just below the oil ring on the other side. >>> After inspecting it with the machine shop we noticed that the ring >>> grooves were not fully machined on one side of the piston. >>> The rings would not move far enough in the groove and was proud of >>> the surface causing the piston to cock in the bore. >>> We collectively have not seen this before and have a new set of AE >>> pistons not County on the way. >>> >>> Having spent many years in Automotive Engineering at one of the >>> former Big Three, these events are usually not one of's. >>> There likely are many more out there that ran down the line in the >>> same batch at the same time before it was caught. >>> >>> These are new County Piston sets (I think made in Israel now). >>> I would inspect their parts very closely before you install them. >>> >>> I also noticed machine chips in the machined groove of their >>> Tri-Metal Main Bearings (Israel). >>> The chips were in the machined groove and were plated over with >>> the babbit and copper. >>> >>> I have had very good experiences with their parts in the past. >>> Just thought I would provide a heads up. >>> >>> Glenn >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Spitfires at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/doug at dougbraun.com >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/boydwagner3 at aol.com From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jan 16 18:03:53 2013 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 20:03:53 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Koni Shock Dilema Message-ID: <380-2201314171353695@M2W110.mail2web.com> I was making a CV_Joint conversion on my GT6+ rear ended Spitfire, to replace the TR6 axle setup I have in there now, when I noticed that the rear shocks are different. (funny that I never noticed before...) These have been on the car for probably 25 years or more, and I was painting them to spruce them up a bit, but I digress. What I noticed was that the upper welded cover on the drivers side was shorter (you can see about an inch of shaft when fully extended). The other side when fully extended has no visible shaft at all I.E. the cover completely covers the lower tube (which seems better in that nothing could fly up and damage the shaft or seals). They are both Konis, and the travel fully extended is the same (haven't checked the fully compressed condition). They were purchased new as a set, front and rear,(from one of the big three) Any ideas...I don't think that the one one the drivers side could be a spitfire, since I believe that the travel is not the same and I would think that they would be shorter but I don't have anything to check it with - fully extended they measure 13 and 13/16ths the lower tube is 7 inches on all the shocks, the upper tube on the long one is around 5 inches while the tube on the "short "one is 4 inches Both of the ones on my 70 GT6+ are like the long one... -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From doug at dougbraun.com Wed Jan 16 18:32:05 2013 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 20:32:05 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Koni Shock Dilema In-Reply-To: <380-2201314171353695@M2W110.mail2web.com> References: <380-2201314171353695@M2W110.mail2web.com> Message-ID: Just wondering: What are the relative merits of the CV joint vs. rotoflex vs. TR6 rear suspensions? Is your setup on an original Spitfire chassis, or does the car have a GT6 chassis? Thanks, Doug On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 8:03 PM, v6spitfireguy at cox.net < v6spitfireguy at cox.net> wrote: > I was making a CV_Joint conversion on my GT6+ rear ended Spitfire, to > replace the TR6 axle setup I have in there now, when I noticed that the > rear shocks are different. (funny that I never noticed before...) From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Jan 28 13:39:47 2013 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:39:47 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed Message-ID: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com> I'm looking for the steel brake lines, specifically for the GT6+ (for those who need numbers, 309710 and 11), that run from the rear flex hose to the slave cylinder. For those of you in the know,they are bent like a pretzel to clear the upright, Rotoflex etc. As many of the parts specific to the GT6+ are made of unobtainium, as these appear to be, I was wondering if possibly the TR6 rear lines could be used. If the length is right I could bend them to suit my application. What I need is a line that is 13 and 1/2 inches long (measured straight), with a long male 3/8 flare fitting at one end, to mate with the slave cylinder, and a 3/8ths female flare nut, to mate with the flex hose at the other. It appears that the TR6 uses something similar at the rear but I do not have on hand any to measure it. I "could" probably flare my own, but I would rather have them already done as bending the line would be relatively easy - and I hate to order one just to find out it won't work - Anybody have a TR6 rear one the bench, or in their spare parts box that they could measure? Barry - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jan 28 16:12:55 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 16:12:55 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Vicky Brit steering rack? Message-ID: <510705F7.9080603@bradakis.com> Anyone have any experience with the quick ratio steering rack V-B offers? mjb. From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Mon Jan 28 20:20:16 2013 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 22:20:16 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Vicky Brit steering rack? In-Reply-To: <510705F7.9080603@bradakis.com> References: <510705F7.9080603@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <009801cdfdcf$9006ba30$b0142e90$@comcast.net> Yes. I had one for ten years. Done some Auto crossing and a couple of Funkhanas with no problems (no wins, either). Dan Parrott Savannah, Georgia 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ", AKA "Rat" 1973/1978 Spit Six "Joseph" 1957 Chevy Belair "Mayflower" -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 6:13 PM To: Spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Vicky Brit steering rack? Anyone have any experience with the quick ratio steering rack V-B offers? mjb. _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/parrotthead01 at comcast.net From dbji at whidbey.net Tue Jan 29 13:05:15 2013 From: dbji at whidbey.net (Don Boyd) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 12:05:15 -0800 Subject: [Spits] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed Message-ID: <784C377EE8E34CE19F711A12EBF6EC5B@work> This line is easily made if you have the right equipment. Use "cunifer" (copper/nickel) line, and it will never rust , and is much easier to work than the steel stuff. Don't use stainless. It's too hard to work, flare , and it's brittle. Don't use an old steel line. There is a reason Volvo, BMW, and Porsche all use cunifer. If you know exactly what you need, I can make it up for you. I have some of the various brit fittings, the hydraulic presses for the flares, and new cunifer line. It will cost about $20. Sorry, this is how I make a living, so...... You could harvest cunifer line off of a wrecked Volvo and use your ends. They have used it since at least 1977. (I'm a Volvo/BMW mechanic) E-mail me privately if you want to pursue. Don Boyd Mechanical Services 5034 Mutiny Bay Rd. Freeland WA. 98249 From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 29 23:09:34 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:09:34 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Spits] hi Message-ID: <1359526174.38565.androidMobile@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> check out this page http://bit.ly/WM9USy John From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 04:16:19 2013 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 03:16:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] hi In-Reply-To: <1359526174.38565.androidMobile@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <1359526174.38565.androidMobile@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1359544579.67977.YahooMailNeo@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> This is a dangerous site according to McAfee. Do not go there!! John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership) ________________________________ From: John Macartney To: spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 1:09 AM Subject: [Spits] hi check out this page http://bit.ly/WM9USy John _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 06:52:15 2013 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:52:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] hey Message-ID: <1359553935.97798.androidMobile@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> check this page out http://bit.ly/XJx7mE John From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 08:35:49 2013 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 07:35:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Fw: hey In-Reply-To: <1359553935.97798.androidMobile@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1359553935.97798.androidMobile@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1359560149.68184.YahooMailNeo@web181104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Looks like this hacker got into my email , too. Don't go to this site, they do bad, bad things. Anybody that figures out who did this, let me know and we will go see him together. John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership) ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: John Young To: spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 8:52 AM Subject: [Spits] hey check this page out http://bit.ly/XJx7mE John _______________________________________________ From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jan 30 16:37:44 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 16:37:44 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Drat. Message-ID: <5109AEC8.5080100@bradakis.com> I really need to get some filters set up to keep that crap from hijacked emails getting through. My apologies for not doing it sooner. mjb. From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 31 12:34:46 2013 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 11:34:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] hi Message-ID: <1359660886.98935.androidMobile@web181104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> check this page out http://bit.ly/WUiHC9 John