From doug at dougbraun.com Wed Aug 1 05:39:54 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 07:39:54 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Other Haynes Manuals Message-ID: Everybody is certainly familiar with the Haynes manuals for cars, but I found they have manuals for other things, done in the characteristic Haynes style: http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=44863&langId=-1 Doug From Michael.Mack at redcross.org Wed Aug 1 06:05:50 2012 From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester)) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 12:05:50 +0000 Subject: [Spits] Other Haynes Manuals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521617A45@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> I wonder if they do a complete disassembly in the Manuals. Could be messy. Mike Mack 79 Spit 80 TR8 73 Stag 70 GT6 -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2012 7:40 AM To: Shop-Talk; Spitfire Group Subject: [Spits] Other Haynes Manuals Everybody is certainly familiar with the Haynes manuals for cars, but I found they have manuals for other things, done in the characteristic Haynes style: http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10 001&storeId=10001&productId=44863&langId=-1 Doug _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/michael.mack at redcross.org From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Aug 2 08:31:23 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:31:23 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Paint: Single-Stage or Base/Clear? Message-ID: Hello, I'm slowly approaching the point where I need to buy the paint for my Spit. I'll be re-painting it in the original Pimento color. Does anybody have opinions on single-stage vs. base/clear? Will base/clear look out of place on a 1972 Spit that I am trying to keep authentic-looking? Is b/c significantly harder or easier to apply than single-stage? I have previously painted my '31 Ford with single-stage, since clearcoat looks strange on a "correct" antique car. But I have no experience with b/c... And BTW, I have a forced-air breathing setup suitable for acrylic urethane paint... Thanks, Doug From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Aug 2 08:38:00 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:38:00 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds Message-ID: Hello, I'm replacing the lower rear valence panel on my Spit, because it was bashed up years ago, and crudely repaired with bondo. I've been using a cheap HF spot-weld drill bit to separate the spot welds, and that is going faster than I expected, especially since the Spitfire sheet metal is so thin. But does anybody know the best way to grind down those little discs of metal that the drill leaves behind? (My drill bit is like a little hole-cutter.) I need to grind them flush, without cutting too deeply into the second, remaining panel. BTW, I'll probably spring for a HF electric spot-welder to attach the new panel. Thanks again, Doug From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Thu Aug 2 09:00:35 2012 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:00:35 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <056c01cd70bf$925d87c0$b7189740$@comcast.net> I used a Harbor Freight grinder with a 4 in diameter grinding wheel. Ground them down them flush! -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Braun Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 10:38 AM To: Shop-Talk; Spitfire Group Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds Hello, I'm replacing the lower rear valence panel on my Spit, because it was bashed up years ago, and crudely repaired with bondo. I've been using a cheap HF spot-weld drill bit to separate the spot welds, and that is going faster than I expected, especially since the Spitfire sheet metal is so thin. But does anybody know the best way to grind down those little discs of metal that the drill leaves behind? (My drill bit is like a little hole-cutter.) I need to grind them flush, without cutting too deeply into the second, remaining panel. BTW, I'll probably spring for a HF electric spot-welder to attach the new panel. Thanks again, Doug _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/parrotthead01 at comcast.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC08026.JPG] From mapper55 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 2 09:32:16 2012 From: mapper55 at hotmail.com (Charles Reid) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:32:16 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: <056c01cd70bf$925d87c0$b7189740$@comcast.net> References: , <056c01cd70bf$925d87c0$b7189740$@comcast.net> Message-ID: I tried the circle cutter bit that you have. Maybe mine was cheaper than yours but I found that it got dull very quickly. Then I decided to simply grind out the old spot welds. This worked OK but took a long time. After the old panels were removed (I replaced several panels), I started to reassemble using a hole punch and MIG welder. I'd punch one side of one panel, usually the new, fit the panel in place, fill all the punched holes with the MIG welder, grind down the results and was ready for primer and paint. If I had thought about it ahead of time, I could have simply drilled out the spot welds (all the way through), fit the new panel, and fill the hole on the back side with the MIG welder. This would have hidden all the welds, being on the back side of the new panels, and been a heck of a lot faster. The downside would be working from less accessible locations, but in my case the car body was on a 'rotisserie'. I hope this description makes sense. Charles Reid 1980 Triumph Spitfire From mapper55 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 2 09:38:58 2012 From: mapper55 at hotmail.com (Charles Reid) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:38:58 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Paint: Single-Stage or Base/Clear? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Base-Clear is harder and the results depend heavily on the conditions in your 'paint shop'. The clear coat is especially susceptible to humidity. I also understand the chemicals in clear coat are more dangerous and painting must be done with breathing protection. If you are looking for 'show room condition' then single stage is the way to go. That being said, I plan to use Base-Clear because I like the finished product better and I'm not looking for originality. Charles Reid 1980 Triumph Spitfire > Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:31:23 -0400 > From: doug at dougbraun.com > To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [Spits] Paint: Single-Stage or Base/Clear? > > Hello, > > I'm slowly approaching the point where I need to buy the paint for my > Spit. I'll be > re-painting it in the original Pimento color. Does anybody have opinions > on single-stage > vs. base/clear? Will base/clear look out of place on a 1972 Spit that I am > trying to > keep authentic-looking? Is b/c significantly harder or easier to apply > than single-stage? > > I have previously painted my '31 Ford with single-stage, since clearcoat > looks strange > on a "correct" antique car. But I have no experience with b/c... > > And BTW, I have a forced-air breathing setup suitable for acrylic urethane > paint... > > Thanks, > Doug > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/mapper55 at hotmail.com From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Aug 2 09:53:06 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:53:06 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: References: <056c01cd70bf$925d87c0$b7189740$@comcast.net> Message-ID: Thanks for all the advice! BTW, here are some reasons why electric spot welding seems worth doing for this repair: 1: All the joints are flange-to-flange (i.e. no overlapping parts), and all the flanges stick out, and are easily accessible. 2: I don't feel comfortable doing MIG plug welds on vertical surfaces underneath the car. 3: Some of the joints have capping strips or trim going over them, so any extra material has to be carefully ground off. 4: There are about 90 to 100 welds to do. 5: The spot welder is on sale :-) Doug From mapper55 at hotmail.com Thu Aug 2 10:33:41 2012 From: mapper55 at hotmail.com (Charles Reid) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 12:33:41 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: References: , <056c01cd70bf$925d87c0$b7189740$@comcast.net>, , Message-ID: I would have preferred to used a spot welder, but I own a MIG welder: and you are right, close quarters and odd angles makes for interesting welding. Charles Reid 1980 Triumph Spitfire > Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:53:06 -0400 > From: doug at dougbraun.com > To: spitfires at autox.team.net; Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Spits] Cutting spot welds > > Thanks for all the advice! > > BTW, here are some reasons why electric spot welding seems worth doing for > this repair: > > 1: All the joints are flange-to-flange (i.e. no overlapping parts), and all > the flanges stick out, and are easily accessible. > 2: I don't feel comfortable doing MIG plug welds on vertical surfaces > underneath the car. > 3: Some of the joints have capping strips or trim going over them, so any > extra material has to be carefully ground off. > 4: There are about 90 to 100 welds to do. > 5: The spot welder is on sale :-) > > Doug > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/mapper55 at hotmail.com From carcentric at yahoo.com Fri Aug 3 08:03:09 2012 From: carcentric at yahoo.com (M D Nugent) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 07:03:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Paint: Single-Stage or Base/Clear? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1344002589.90742.YahooMailNeo@web120101.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I think you've answered you own question: ". . . Will base/clear look out of place on a 1972 Spit that I am trying to keep authentic-looking? . . . I have previously painted my '31 Ford with single-stage, since clearcoat looks strange on a "correct" antique car. . . ." I agree, if period correct is the look you've after, avoid basecoat/clear - it's just too shiny, for 1972 as it was for 1931. M D "Doc" Nugent - www.carcentric.com Seattle area ________________________________ From: Doug Braun To: Spitfire Group ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:31 AM Subject: [Spits] Paint: Single-Stage or Base/Clear? Hello, I'm slowly approaching the point where I need to buy the paint for my Spit. I'll be re-painting it in the original Pimento color. Does anybody have opinions on single-stage vs. base/clear? Will base/clear look out of place on a 1972 Spit that I am trying to keep authentic-looking? Is b/c significantly harder or easier to apply than single-stage? I have previously painted my '31 Ford with single-stage, since clearcoat looks strange on a "correct" antique car. But I have no experience with b/c... And BTW, I have a forced-air breathing setup suitable for acrylic urethane paint... Thanks, Doug _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/carcentric at yahoo.com From carcentric at yahoo.com Fri Aug 3 08:12:57 2012 From: carcentric at yahoo.com (M D Nugent) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 07:12:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1344003177.16272.YahooMailNeo@web120103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I bought several HF spot weld cutters (already had a couple from Eastwood), but my genius moment was when I hired a kid at $10/hour to drill the suckers out while I worked on something easier and more interesting! Both the Eastwood and HF cutters wore down pretty fast, BTW - I couldn't tell any difference in quality. As to removing the little circles left behind, I sacrified an old wood chisel - most of them popped off without much resistance. M D "Doc" Nugent - www.carcentric.com Seattle area ________________________________ From: Doug Braun To: Shop-Talk ; Spitfire Group Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:38 AM Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds Hello, I'm replacing the lower rear valence panel on my Spit, because it was bashed up years ago, and crudely repaired with bondo. I've been using a cheap HF spot-weld drill bit to separate the spot welds, and that is going faster than I expected, especially since the Spitfire sheet metal is so thin. But does anybody know the best way to grind down those little discs of metal that the drill leaves behind? (My drill bit is like a little hole-cutter.) I need to grind them flush, without cutting too deeply into the second, remaining panel. BTW, I'll probably spring for a HF electric spot-welder to attach the new panel. Thanks again, Doug _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/carcentric at yahoo.com From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 08:43:02 2012 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 10:43:02 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: <1344003177.16272.YahooMailNeo@web120103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1344003177.16272.YahooMailNeo@web120103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <07b201cd7186$496c8ee0$dc45aca0$@comcast.net> I also used HF and Eastwood spot weld cutters. As the points wore down, I refreshed the points with a grinder. Dan Parrott Savannah, Georgia 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ", AKA "Rat" 1973/1978 Spit Six "Joseph" 1957 Chevy Belair "Mayflower" -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of M D Nugent Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 10:13 AM To: Doug Braun; Shop-Talk; Spitfire Group Subject: Re: [Spits] Cutting spot welds I bought several HF spot weld cutters (already had a couple from Eastwood), but my genius moment was when I hired a kid at $10/hour to drill the suckers out while I worked on something easier and more interesting! Both the Eastwood and HF cutters wore down pretty fast, BTW - I couldn't tell any difference in quality. As to removing the little circles left behind, I sacrified an old wood chisel - most of them popped off without much resistance. M D "Doc" Nugent - www.carcentric.com Seattle area ________________________________ From: Doug Braun To: Shop-Talk ; Spitfire Group Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:38 AM Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds Hello, I'm replacing the lower rear valence panel on my Spit, because it was bashed up years ago, and crudely repaired with bondo. I've been using a cheap HF spot-weld drill bit to separate the spot welds, and that is going faster than I expected, especially since the Spitfire sheet metal is so thin. But does anybody know the best way to grind down those little discs of metal that the drill leaves behind? (My drill bit is like a little hole-cutter.) I need to grind them flush, without cutting too deeply into the second, remaining panel. BTW, I'll probably spring for a HF electric spot-welder to attach the new panel. Thanks again, Doug _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/carcentric at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/parrotthead01 at comcast.net From cleoburyp at gmail.com Fri Aug 3 09:09:11 2012 From: cleoburyp at gmail.com (Phil Cleobury) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2012 11:09:11 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: <1344003177.16272.YahooMailNeo@web120103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1344003177.16272.YahooMailNeo@web120103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <501BE997.2060006@gmail.com> Drill (or use spot wield remover if your wealthy) same size as spot on each spot to weaken spot, (only through first piece of sheet metal) - Air chisel in the gap of the two sheets use split end chisel - keep it sharp as it does some cutting - mainly used as a wedge to separate the pannals... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Air%20Tools-_-Air%20Hammers-_-1540331&ci_sku=1540331&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword} - bent back old sheet as you go along to minimize distortion of original panel - old sheet pops off easily Repair flatten flanges of old sheet metal http://www.eastwood.com/7-pc-body-and-fender-pro-set-fiberglass-handles.html Clean up whats left of old spot wields on origional under sheet metal with grinder with sand disk (not grinding wheel) shiny metal finish where spot are to be ("earth" for easy mig wielding) Remove surface rust/contamination - clean up original panels Paint inside of new and old panels with Por15 or Wield through primer Add spot holes in new sheet (approx 3 inches - 5 inches apart) with drill and wood block behind for support (can create distortion) or metal joggler http://www.minimag.co.uk/2010/08/16/on-test-jogglers/ Clean paint off around spot wield holes with sanding disk (if using por15 - should wield if using wield through primer) or Touch drill through spot wields for earthing purposes Secure Replacement panel in place with sheet metal screws having used a small drill to allow thread to take or use holes that accidentally got drilled right through! - in at least 20% of holes and/or use mole grips to prevent movement or distortion due to heat when wielding Ensure two sheets are CLOSE together to prevent bad wield - use body work hammer dollies http://www.eastwood.com/7-pc-body-and-fender-pro-set-fiberglass-handles.html Plug wield with Mig wielder - high wire feed/high amperage/short burst to fill hole - to not blow away metal/slightly further distance from material than normal seam wielding Fettle clean up excess wield from pulging - if you get it right this is minimal - amount of time of wielding and earthing are critical On 8/3/2012 10:12 AM, M D Nugent wrote: > I bought several HF spot weld cutters (already had a couple from Eastwood), > but my genius moment was when I hired a kid at $10/hour to drill the suckers > out while I worked on something easier and more interesting! > > > Both the > Eastwood and HF cutters wore down pretty fast, BTW - I couldn't tell any > difference in quality. > > As to removing the little circles left behind, I > sacrified an old wood chisel - most of them popped off without much > resistance. > > > M D "Doc" Nugent - www.carcentric.com > Seattle area > ________________________________ > From: Doug Braun > To: > Shop-Talk ; Spitfire Group > > Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:38 AM > Subject: > [Spits] Cutting spot welds > > Hello, > > I'm replacing the lower rear valence > panel on my Spit, because it was > bashed up > years ago, and crudely repaired > with bondo. I've been using a cheap HF > spot-weld > drill bit to separate the > spot welds, and that is going faster than I > expected, especially > since the > Spitfire sheet metal is so thin. > > But does anybody know the best way to grind > down those little discs of > metal that > the drill leaves behind? (My drill bit > is like a little hole-cutter.) I > need to grind them flush, without > cutting > too deeply into the second, remaining panel. > > BTW, I'll probably spring for a > HF electric spot-welder to attach the new > panel. > > Thanks again, > Doug > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/carcentric at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/cleoburyp at gmail.com From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Aug 6 07:47:01 2012 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 09:47:01 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Triumphess info... Message-ID: <380-2201281613471338@M2W105.mail2web.com> Listers, Is any body else slightly frustrated with the Triumphest registration website or is it just me? I am trying to get information about the dinner choice; (steak or chicken..) is all that is indicated. My better half needs more information than just the type of meat! She wants to know what the actual dinner or menu meal is to make a choice, you know Whole Chicken, Boneless Breast, Top Sirloin, Prime rib, etc.  Maybe Im too old or impatient to search the website for that info, but I didnt see it when I looked. Give me the old fashioned pdf or form,(Im driving a 40 year old car after all), and descriptions of what the heck is going on  Ill be going, but I would like to register, but I cant finish it till the wife can make her decision Anybody here got the info or knows where I can get it?? Barry Schwartz, frustrated in San Diego... -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web From elliottr at rmi.net Mon Aug 6 18:29:40 2012 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2012 19:29:40 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Rocker shaft Message-ID: <50206174.8010408@rmi.net> Hi, How hard should it be to slide a new rocker shaft through the rocker pedestals? I just purchased a new one and it is requiring a lot of force to slide through? Any suggestions? Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire From s1500 at comcast.net Thu Aug 9 20:04:46 2012 From: s1500 at comcast.net (Ryan Waltrip) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2012 21:04:46 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire viral video Message-ID: <50246C3E.2090405@comcast.net> This made the rounds a couple weeks ago. Recogized most of the parts. Heh. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daVDrGsaDME From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Aug 9 21:31:39 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 23:31:39 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire viral video In-Reply-To: <50246C3E.2090405@comcast.net> References: <50246C3E.2090405@comcast.net> Message-ID: So, what were the leftover bits? Doug On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 10:04 PM, Ryan Waltrip wrote: > This made the rounds a couple weeks ago. Recogized most of the parts. Heh. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?**v=daVDrGsaDME > ______________________________________________ From doug at dougbraun.com Fri Aug 10 21:34:17 2012 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 23:34:17 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Cutting spot welds In-Reply-To: References: <1344003177.16272.YahooMailNeo@web120103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <501BE997.2060006@gmail.com> Message-ID: Well, I got the new lower valence panel installed, and it looks good. I used a flap disk to remove those little disks, which worked fine. The HF spot weld cutter drill ($5.29 or so) also worked fine. I ended up buying and using the HF 240 volt electrical spot welder. I had no problems with it, either. The only downside was that I had to completely clean both sides of the new and existing metal, so there could be a good electrical connection. Annoyingly, this included having to scrape off a bunch of undercoating and tarry sealer. It probably wasn't worth spending the money for the welder just for this one job, but it let me re-live the experience of using one back in 9th grade shop class... Doug From jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca Sat Aug 11 11:20:25 2012 From: jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca (Jim Dwyer) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 13:20:25 -0400 Subject: [Spits] 1976 Triumph Spitfire Front Clip Message-ID: 1976 Triumph Spitfire Front Clip I purchased this from Obsolete Automotive for $650+taxes and shipping and ended up not using it. Some rusting around the headlights but the panels are straight with no dents! The Headlights and the headlight surround pieces, marker lights, front wire harness and the hood latches are included. $300 OBO From jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca Sat Aug 11 12:05:49 2012 From: jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca (Jim Dwyer) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 14:05:49 -0400 Subject: [Spits] 1976 Triumph Spitfire Front Clip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I forgot to mention that the Front Clip is located in London Ontario Canada -----Original Message----- From: Jim Dwyer Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 1:20 PM To: Spitfire list Subject: [Spits] 1976 Triumph Spitfire Front Clip 1976 Triumph Spitfire Front Clip I purchased this from Obsolete Automotive for $650+taxes and shipping and ended up not using it. Some rusting around the headlights but the panels are straight with no dents! The Headlights and the headlight surround pieces, marker lights, front wire harness and the hood latches are included. $300 OBO _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/jim.dwyer at sympatico.ca From elliottr at rmi.net Sat Aug 11 18:21:20 2012 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 19:21:20 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Rocker Shaft Pedestal Shim Message-ID: <5026F700.1070806@rmi.net> Hi, At what point does rocker pedestal shims become necessary? I have a 1980 Spitfire 1500 that I had quite a bit taken off the head. It is still taller than some of the earlier heads. As far as I can tell they used the same push rods, pedestals and valves even when the heads were shorter. So I am thinking there is enough adjustment in them that I don't need shims. Thanks, Roger Elliott From nmoseley at telus.net Sun Aug 12 16:11:07 2012 From: nmoseley at telus.net (Nick Moseley) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 15:11:07 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris Message-ID: <005001cd78d7$7456a6b0$5d03f410$@net> Firstly, sorry to those of you for whom this is a cross post. Here's the question, below is the story: -what are the groups' experiences with which fuel tank sealers? The reviews on Eastwood's site on their kit do not bode well. The story to date: I've been chasing an intermittent miss on my 80 Spit. The issue seems to have been clouded by a tach that jumps about at around 4700 rpm. The real issue though, is that the engine cuts out for periods of between 1-3 seconds after sustained running, or even bursts up to and over 5,000 rpm. In the latest incident, the engine did not restart, and I coasted off the slalom course. There is a clear fuel filter near the carb, which was empty of debris and of fuel. Eventually, cranking the engine to actuate the (new) fuel pump filled the filter bowl and fed the carb, enabling a re-start. Today, I pulled the fuel tank, and found a leak, and debris in the bottom of the tank. That leads to a possible conclusion that the debris was blocking the fuel line. This would agree with the symptom where the intermittent running often occurred after a fuel fill up. (Ain't 20/20 hindsight wonderful!?). Having pulled away the tank cover in the trunk, a very slow drip of fuel was leaking, which explains the aroma of gasoline. Is there any sense in getting a tank sealer kit, or would I be better to just get a new tank? The POR kit is $72 or so, and a new tank is $200. I have a couple of older tanks here, and none is close to pristine. Many thanks for your thoughts and experiences Nick Moseley __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7379 (20120812) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From elliottr at rmi.net Sun Aug 12 17:34:27 2012 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 18:34:27 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris In-Reply-To: <005001cd78d7$7456a6b0$5d03f410$@net> References: <005001cd78d7$7456a6b0$5d03f410$@net> Message-ID: <50283D83.6030703@rmi.net> I have never used a tank sealer kit, but of the people I have heard talk about them seem to be of the opinion that they work fine for a couple of years, then they start flaking off. I don't suppose the leak could be coming from around the sending unit gasket? Roger On 08/12/2012 05:11 PM, Nick Moseley wrote: > Firstly, sorry to those of you for whom this is a cross post. > > Here's the question, below is the story: > > -what are the groups' experiences with which fuel tank sealers? The reviews > on Eastwood's site on their kit do not bode well. > > > > > > The story to date: I've been chasing an intermittent miss on my 80 Spit. The > issue seems to have been clouded by a tach that jumps about at around 4700 > rpm. The real issue though, is that the engine cuts out for periods of > between 1-3 seconds after sustained running, or even bursts up to and over > 5,000 rpm. In the latest incident, the engine did not restart, and I coasted > off the slalom course. There is a clear fuel filter near the carb, which was > empty of debris and of fuel. Eventually, cranking the engine to actuate the > (new) fuel pump filled the filter bowl and fed the carb, enabling a > re-start. > > Today, I pulled the fuel tank, and found a leak, and debris in the bottom of > the tank. That leads to a possible conclusion that the debris was blocking > the fuel line. This would agree with the symptom where the intermittent > running often occurred after a fuel fill up. (Ain't 20/20 hindsight > wonderful!?). > > Having pulled away the tank cover in the trunk, a very slow drip of fuel was > leaking, which explains the aroma of gasoline. > > Is there any sense in getting a tank sealer kit, or would I be better to > just get a new tank? The POR kit is $72 or so, and a new tank is $200. I > have a couple of older tanks here, and none is close to pristine. > > Many thanks for your thoughts and experiences > > > > Nick Moseley > > > > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature > database 7379 (20120812) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. > > http://www.eset.com > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/elliottr at rmi.net From aljlthomson at charter.net Sun Aug 12 19:19:57 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 21:19:57 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris In-Reply-To: <005001cd78d7$7456a6b0$5d03f410$@net> References: <005001cd78d7$7456a6b0$5d03f410$@net> Message-ID: <000001cd78f1$c0b2fee0$4218fca0$@charter.net> If you are looking for a fuel tank sealing product, I have had excellent results from the product that is sold by "The Shop". I have used this on several older farm tractors (gasoline engines) and have never had a problem with the material sloughing off inside the tank. I think the oldest applications is now well over ten years old. Check it out at http://www.theshopproducts.com/products_gastank-sealer.html I have used it in a 1939 John Deere B, an early 1950's Case, and an early 1950's John Deere 50. These tractors are fed the current diet of gasoline that we get in Connecticut and there is no problem that I can see. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nick Moseley Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 6:11 PM To: Spitfires at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Subject: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris Firstly, sorry to those of you for whom this is a cross post. Here's the question, below is the story: -what are the groups' experiences with which fuel tank sealers? The reviews on Eastwood's site on their kit do not bode well. The story to date: I've been chasing an intermittent miss on my 80 Spit. The issue seems to have been clouded by a tach that jumps about at around 4700 rpm. The real issue though, is that the engine cuts out for periods of between 1-3 seconds after sustained running, or even bursts up to and over 5,000 rpm. In the latest incident, the engine did not restart, and I coasted off the slalom course. There is a clear fuel filter near the carb, which was empty of debris and of fuel. Eventually, cranking the engine to actuate the (new) fuel pump filled the filter bowl and fed the carb, enabling a re-start. Today, I pulled the fuel tank, and found a leak, and debris in the bottom of the tank. That leads to a possible conclusion that the debris was blocking the fuel line. This would agree with the symptom where the intermittent running often occurred after a fuel fill up. (Ain't 20/20 hindsight wonderful!?). Having pulled away the tank cover in the trunk, a very slow drip of fuel was leaking, which explains the aroma of gasoline. Is there any sense in getting a tank sealer kit, or would I be better to just get a new tank? The POR kit is $72 or so, and a new tank is $200. I have a couple of older tanks here, and none is close to pristine. Many thanks for your thoughts and experiences Nick Moseley __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7379 (20120812) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/aljlthomson at charter.net From nmoseley at telus.net Sun Aug 12 22:54:56 2012 From: nmoseley at telus.net (Nick Moseley) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 21:54:56 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris In-Reply-To: <000001cd78f1$c0b2fee0$4218fca0$@charter.net> References: <005001cd78d7$7456a6b0$5d03f410$@net> <000001cd78f1$c0b2fee0$4218fca0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <007001cd790f$cb2e6c60$618b4520$@net> Thanks Alex, I'm going to archive this message as it is such a ringing endorsement of the product. POR is available locally (I'll find out tomorrow morning), in which case I'll try that, but will keep this in mind if there are problems with the POR. I have more than one tank to use as test subjects... Many thanks Nick Moseley -----Original Message----- From: Alex & Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net] Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 6:20 PM To: 'Nick Moseley'; Spitfires at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris If you are looking for a fuel tank sealing product, I have had excellent results from the product that is sold by "The Shop". I have used this on several older farm tractors (gasoline engines) and have never had a problem with the material sloughing off inside the tank. I think the oldest applications is now well over ten years old. Check it out at http://www.theshopproducts.com/products_gastank-sealer.html I have used it in a 1939 John Deere B, an early 1950's Case, and an early 1950's John Deere 50. These tractors are fed the current diet of gasoline that we get in Connecticut and there is no problem that I can see. Alex Thomson __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7379 (20120812) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From nmoseley at telus.net Mon Aug 13 20:52:36 2012 From: nmoseley at telus.net (Nick Moseley) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 19:52:36 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris In-Reply-To: <1c478.11d06878.3d5af751@aol.com> References: <1c478.11d06878.3d5af751@aol.com> Message-ID: <001001cd79c7$de2a9d80$9a7fd880$@net> Thanks Mark, I won't be tossing the spare tank anytime soon, as the spare may be used as the primary. The current spare has rusty innards, but no leaks, while the primary had clean looking innards, but a pinhole leak. Out of curiosity, roughly how much were you charged for Triumph tanks? Nick Moseley From: EDENMA at aol.com [mailto:EDENMA at aol.com] Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 5:36 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; nmoseley at telus.net Subject: Re: Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris Nick: Something else to consider before junking your old tank would be to take it to a "good " radiator shop and have them boil it out and then patch any holes. I have had this done very reasonably on several Triumph and Jaguar tanks. They also treat the inside as well. This is a much more robust and permanent solution than any tank sealer product [which usually requires you to thoroughly clean out the tank before using anyway] I have ever tried. In the long run cost effective also. Cheers! Mark 78 Spit/6 74 Spit/6 73 1500 68 MkII 64 GP #42 __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7382 (20120813) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7382 (20120813) __________ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com From celiracer81 at hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 14:16:37 2012 From: celiracer81 at hotmail.com (celiracer81 at hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:16:37 -0500 Subject: [Spits] The End...sadly Message-ID: Well everyone, I have found myself in an internal struggle over the last number of years between keeping the Spitfire and chasing the dream of getting it on the road and cruising around town with the top down, or getting rid of it for some much needed garage space and re-visit the LBC dream another day. Sadly, the latter battle won. With a 3 year old around the house and another baby on the way, the amount of time I will have to work on it is becoming even more limited than it has been for the last few years. That being said, I wanted to toss out the offer to people on the Spitlist first before going the way of Craigslist or similar websites for the masses. Sadly, I never got the car to street legal drivable condition, but I have thoroughly enjoyed the process of taking a vehicle that was handed over to me in boxes into a running and drivable machine. If you or anyone you know might be interested in a project Spit in the Chicago, IL region please let me know. Background: I received the car in boxes and pieced it back together to get it running and "drivable". I tinkered with it, had all new floors, rockers, sills, etc., welded in to replace the non-existent floors it had when I got it. The motor ran fairly well but needed some fine tuning. The engine block is for a 1300, the head is from a 1500. The body is in "decent" condition for a body that was neglected for the better part of 10 years. It has been garage kept for a majority of the time that I have had it. Status of vehicle: - 1968 Triumph Spitfire MKIII - Ran 4 years ago before I drained all fluids - Tore down carbs and rebuilt them the winter before last - new floors, rocker panels, strengtheners, etc. installed about 8 years ago - windshield is cracked and needs to be replaced - some of the body has been sanded down to bare metal, treated with rust preventative and primed to keep surface rust away - body has a number of dents in it that need attention (were previously filled with lots of bondo but I sanded it all out to find surface rust under the bondo - Borg & Beck clutch installed 8 years ago & MAYBE a half-mile of driving on it - Engine is fitted with 4-1 headers - Front sway bar available but not installed - Camber compensator bar available but not installed - Bumpers - chrome pitted but acceptable for general use - New battery box installed to replace rusted out box - Recently replaced fuel filter - Recently replaced Brake Master Cylinder - brake system bled - Top is in good condition - Stainless Steel brake lines - New rear brake drums Those are just the key points I can think of right now. I am sure I will come up with more once I start going through boxes. I do know that I have a handful of other 1500 parts that came with the car from the PO. I have interior door panels and rear luggage area panel in dark red. I have all of the boxes of various parts that were given to me when I got the car. Many parts are not even for this vehicle but for a 1500. I do have the tail light assemblies, one headlight, front bumper and rear bumper(s), chrome trim pieces, extra gauges, cables, and more. I also have a full Monza exhaust for it that I will probably be selling separately. It needs a lot of tlc, body work, carpets, and paint. I guess all-in-all, it could make a good project for someone with time. Or it could be a good parts car. All of the additional boxes of parts that I have are also part of the deal. I am not willing to pay to have it shipped anywhere so I would only be interested in local pick-up. Considering the condition I have seen other people selling these for in the past, I am planning on posting it up on Craigslist for about $1,100 US and seeing what comes back. I have attached some photos of it's current condition and I can provide more upon request. Any other input is also welcome. Thanks, Dave [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]