From mark at bradakis.com Fri Dec 3 19:18:12 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2010 19:18:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Spits] Spam, servers, service and such Message-ID: <20101204021812.460752E0A1@bradakis.com> I wrote this for another list, but there are possibly a few of you who here who might want some advance warning of possible Team.Net downtime. I don't want to be the cause of even more hoilday panic! Anyway, here's the message: Yes, there are still some spam messages from hijacked email accounts getting through now and then. I've been working on the issue a bit, but it is turning out to be a case of 'shipwright's disease' as we know it, applied to computers. If you don't know what I am talking about, check out http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=32 Basically to tighten up security and improve a few things I'm planning on updating the operating system and all the user level programs that Team.Net uses. Not a small undertaking, but well within my abilities. Currently there is no budget for hardware upgrades, perhaps after the spring fund drive. Of course, if you haven't yet spent all your loot on holiday gifts and such and wanted to donate [ link below ] I would not complain ;-) The process will take a fair bit of time over who knows how many late nights at the keyboard. With luck it will all be unnoticed by you folks, transparent to the user, as they say. But there is always a chance of service not being available for some period of time, hopefully no more than minutes at a time. It could be something simple, like a stupid typo in a config file, or it could be one of the cats jumping the the keyboard as I go to fetch some more refrehments and somehow managing to hit the CONFIRM REFORMAT OF ALL DISKS button. I remember what it was like when the ISP I was using for the DSL line went belly up and Team.Net was off the air for 8 days - not a good thing. Actually, I wonder what the up vs. down time percentages might be over the last 19 years and 7 months of Team.Net. I won't count the years before that when I ran it from the U of U. Anyway, short story is if Team.Net disappears at times over the next few weeks, don't panic, I'll be working on it. mjb. From mkcaspian1 at aol.com Sat Dec 4 12:59:20 2010 From: mkcaspian1 at aol.com (mkcaspian1 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 14:59:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Spits] Bonnet and radiator cap Message-ID: <8CD6204DFD49421-638-17237@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com> Hello - upon replacing the radiator in my 78 Spitfire, the radiator cap now hits the underside of the bonnet, making an oh so small dimple from below - Can the bonnet be adjusted up ever so slightly, or the radiator dropped down ever so slightly - and then how do I drive the dimple back down? John - From nmoseley at telus.net Sat Dec 4 21:36:49 2010 From: nmoseley at telus.net (Nick Moseley) Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 20:36:49 -0800 Subject: [Spits] Bonnet and radiator cap In-Reply-To: <8CD6204DFD49421-638-17237@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CD6204DFD49421-638-17237@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000301cb9436$0896b370$19c41a50$@net> John, the front end height of the bonnet can be adjusted by first removing the front bumper-ettes (aka the boobs in front of the bumper) then adjusting the height of the bolts holding the bonnet hinge tubes. Nick Moseley __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5674 (20101204) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com From RTGetzinger at scif.com Mon Dec 6 12:12:49 2010 From: RTGetzinger at scif.com (Rob T. Getzinger) Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2010 11:12:49 -0800 Subject: [Spits] Bonnet and radiator cap In-Reply-To: <000301cb9436$0896b370$19c41a50$@net> References: <8CD6204DFD49421-638-17237@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com> <000301cb9436$0896b370$19c41a50$@net> Message-ID: <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D80EED354E@njem01.scif.com> Raising the bonnet is one method. You may have additional mounting holes on the core support where you can lower the radiator. If you don't you can drill new ones slightly lower. The trick is to keep the radiator fill lip higher than the top water inlet otherwise you may not fill the engine completely with water and have air in the system which will hinder circulation and cooling. Can you use a cap without the vent lever and get low enough for clearance. To get rid of the ding you may want to call a local ding repairer in the yellow pages or manually tap it back yourself or use a Ding King system using a glue gun and suction cup underneath. I expect you'll have paint damage on that spot regardless unless the dent is minimal and you have original paint or exceptional paint adhesion. Rob -----Original John, the front end height of the bonnet can be adjusted by first removing the front bumper-ettes (aka the boobs in front of the bumper) then adjusting the height of the bolts holding the bonnet hinge tubes. Nick Moseley ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ This e-mail message from State Compensation Insurance Fund and all attachments transmitted with it may be privileged or confidential and protected from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, copying, or taking any action based on it is strictly prohibited and may have legal consequences. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender by reply e-mail and destroy the original message and all copies. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Dec 24 14:09:47 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 16:09:47 -0500 Subject: [Spits] season's greetings and other stuff Message-ID: <4D14C5CB.9533.23E46DCB@localhost> First, let me wish everyone happy, safe, and peaceful holidays! I've been out of touch for a few months, it seems. Way too much to do, some mechanical. Lately I've been in a slow process to bring back to life a piece of French machinery, a Peugeot TH8. That's tandem bicycle they made in the early 80's. This is my sweetie's and my Christmas present to each other so she can ride with me this coming year. Between that effort, the weather, and other domestic concerns I haven't had much time for LBC stuff. At least I can work on the TH8 in the basement. LBC work does happen sometimes though. I just finished the last details getting the gearbox back in the GT6, then drove it around the block. The good news is that the squeaky noises I heard are totally gone. It is totally quiet (considering the car it is in). Even the whining on overrun in 2nd is gone. So the needle bearing between input and main shafts was the culprit. The bad news is that something is amiss with 1st. On overrun it acts like it wants to kick out. It starts making a clicking noise like the dog teeth are scraping. "Shifting" it back into gear, i.e. de- clutching and pushing the lever back into gear makes it grind as if the synchros are bad. Curiously, it had no such problem before I took it apart. Maybe I put something together wrong but danged if I know what. I'm open to suggestions. Unfortunately it means pulling it out again. If it's is worth doing once, it's worth doing twice, right? :-( The TH8 is an intersting machine. First, some of the components use French standard sizes, obsolete since even the French moved away from them starting in the early 80's. The rear hub, made by Atom, a traditional French brand back then, is a monstrous device with a solid spindle (no quick release skewer) nearly 11mm in diameter. It has a drum brake, necessary for touring tandems to do long descents without heating the wheels with rim brakes so much that the tires pop off the rims. This will be have a triple chainring set and a 6-speed freewheel. I've probably reached the character limit here. Must sign off. Cheers, everyone! Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From s1500 at comcast.net Tue Dec 28 07:47:18 2010 From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 14:47:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spits] Mail-in rebuilders for late-model tach? Message-ID: <733579309.416307.1293547638670.JavaMail.root@sz0130a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You know, in the last days of when I was driving my Spit for this year, a shred of hope happened for my tachometer. Ever since I converted to a different ignition module(the original Lucas one conked out), my tach never read right. Despite adding in a resistor, replacing wires, etc, it never read right. It always seemed to be at half of what it should be. Then often when I slowed down(ie rpms down), it would bounce up. That would be the only time it ever read past 1500. But lately, when I drove it, typically over slow & slightly bumpy areas, the tach read correct! I'm convinced there's some slightly loose connection in tach itself that needs to be rebuilt/reconnected & I'm good to go again. Is there any place I can mail off my tach over the winter, have it rebuilt(for less than the cost of a new one) & have it back by spring?