From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 01:38:40 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 02:38:40 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Spits] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401083840.6EE632E06C@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those first faintly glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Apr 5 06:56:21 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 08:56:21 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire brake switch Message-ID: While rebuilding the custom throttle pedal assembly on Susan's spitfire race car I inadvertently broke the brake switch. Unfortunately I don't have enough time to order a switch from any of the usual suppliers as the car is being loaded on the trailer Monday for the trip to VIR. Has anyone sourced a brake switch from a local auto parts supply such as Napa, Autozone, etc? If so which one? Thanks! Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Apr 5 08:24:41 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:24:41 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Spitfire brake switch In-Reply-To: <20100405142034.23A0BB4D41C@gate19.gate.dfw.mlsrvr.com> References: <20100405142034.23A0BB4D41C@gate19.gate.dfw.mlsrvr.com> Message-ID: Wow! Got a bunch of replies real quick! I think I have enough info to work on and will be heading to the local parts stores this evening. Thanks again! Brad > At 07:56 AM 4/5/2010, Brad Kahler wrote: > >> While rebuilding the custom throttle pedal assembly on Susan's spitfire >> race >> car I inadvertently broke the brake switch. Unfortunately I don't have >> enough time to order a switch from any of the usual suppliers as the car >> is >> being loaded on the trailer Monday for the trip to VIR. >> >> Has anyone sourced a brake switch from a local auto parts supply such as >> Napa, Autozone, etc? If so which one? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Brad From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Apr 5 11:12:43 2010 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:12:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Spitfire brake switch In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <401822.88235.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A while ago my original switch broke, and I was able to super-glue it back together and have it working again. But I did not press my luck- I ordered a couple of new ones the next day. Doug --- On Mon, 4/5/10, Brad Kahler wrote: > From: Brad Kahler > Subject: [Spits] Spitfire brake switch > To: "Triumphs" , spitfires at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 8:56 AM > While rebuilding the custom throttle > pedal assembly on Susan's spitfire race > car I inadvertently broke the brake switch. > Unfortunately I don't have > enough time to order a switch from any of the usual > suppliers as the car is > being loaded on the trailer Monday for the trip to VIR. > > Has anyone sourced a brake switch from a local auto parts > supply such as > Napa, Autozone, etc? If so which one? > > Thanks! > > Brad > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/doug at dougbraun.com From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Apr 5 11:14:03 2010 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 10:14:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] [TR] Spitfire brake switch In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <914118.74860.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Did any of them CC the list? I did not see any other replies, and I would be curious what to look for. Doug --- On Mon, 4/5/10, Brad Kahler wrote: > From: Brad Kahler > Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] Spitfire brake switch > To: "Triumphs" , spitfires at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 10:24 AM > Wow! > > Got a bunch of replies real quick! I think I have > enough info to work on > and will be heading to the local parts stores this > evening. > > Thanks again! > > Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Apr 5 11:19:37 2010 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 13:19:37 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Spitfire brake switch In-Reply-To: <914118.74860.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <914118.74860.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Andy Mace sent me the info of off the Spitfire website and I took that information and the info provided by other responders to three different parts stores (Napa, Autozone & O'Reilly's). Napa didn't have any of them that I listed saying they couldn't even order them. Same story with Autozone. I then went to O'Reilly's and they couldn't get the spitfire one but they had one (only one) instock for a Chevy Luv. It appears to be a direct bolt in replacement. I'll find out tonight. I found it odd that no one seemed to be able to order these switches. Even O'Reilly's said they couldn't order the Chevy Luv switch, they just happened to have one in stock Thanks everyone for the replies. Brad On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 1:14 PM, Doug Braun wrote: > Did any of them CC the list? I did not see any other replies, and I would > be curious what to look for. > > Doug > > --- On Mon, 4/5/10, Brad Kahler wrote: > > > From: Brad Kahler > > Subject: Re: [Spits] [TR] Spitfire brake switch > > To: "Triumphs" , spitfires at autox.team.net > > Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 10:24 AM > > Wow! > > > > Got a bunch of replies real quick! I think I have > > enough info to work on > > and will be heading to the local parts stores this > > evening. > > > > Thanks again! > > > > Brad From kg4tqe at gmail.com Wed Apr 7 05:54:15 2010 From: kg4tqe at gmail.com (Don Wankel) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 07:54:15 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Spitfire brake switch Message-ID: If memory serves me correctly, I just used a GM switch, whatever they had, and it worked fine. I think I spec'ed it for an 83 GMC truck, but I may be mistaken. Have them pull one and compare to the old one. They are all pretty much the same. Don From bkahler1 at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 08:34:23 2010 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 10:34:23 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Fwd: [Fot] HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In-Reply-To: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A718C54@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local> References: <55CB8270B7388B478DC7AC2A39A97C5A718C54@isis.dieselperformanceparts.local> Message-ID: Listers, Can someone possibly help Mark out?! Brad (off to VIR in an hour) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Diesel Performance Parts Inc. - Info Date: Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 9:45 AM Subject: [Fot] HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To: fot at autox.team.net Morning FOTer's, As always posting because I need help, having owned a Spit and a TR6 back in the "day" I sold my Shelby race car and started racing a Spit, love it but I am sort of out of it as compared to the Ford parts and where to get what and what fits what and such. So back to my problem, going like a mad man with NDA shipments and such to get ready to reinstall my originally incorrectly made Summer Brothers axles and while doing that I was going to upgrade to GT6 rear drums. As you know the only way to get the backing plates changed is to ruin a bearing locking ring, maybe ruin a bearing and have to totally take out both axles, hubs etc etc. Anyway got all my parts in painted prepped and waiting on Summer Brothers to send my now hopefully correctly re done axles back NDA yesterday. Got'em in left the office and went home to put it all together and planned leave this AM for VIR and the VDCA race. All my buddies left Wed and I was to catch up. Well I get the 7/16" race wheel studs pressed in and spot welded in place and I am ready to drop on the 4 bolt flange with the axle seal followed by the brake backing plates and guess what, the bolt pattern on the backing plates I was sent is off by at least 1/2" !!!!! Turns out they are Rotoflex backing plates and not the ones that match the Spitfire 4 bolt pattern. So I spend a couple of hours calling everyone I know (especially west coast places as I need them NDA today) and no one has/will take the time/or whatever) to see if they have any. So VIR and the VCDA is out. But I still need the right backing plates. So does anyone have any they would sell to me? They backing plates have a 2.0" center hole, the smaller Spit bolt pattern around 2 3/8" center to center measurement and are for the 8" x 1.5" shoe size. They have the same wheel cylinder as a Spit and also the same manual brake adjuster set up. By the way the GT6 parts car I have has 8" x 1.5" drum brakes if anyone needs them, they are "supposedly" rare??? Price can be REALLY right as I need to re coup all the NDA charges I spent on nothing now that VIR is out!!!! Thanks from Brakeless in Tennessee!! Hoping the "List" can help! Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, INC. 411 Allied Drive Nashville, TN 37211 866-455-7788 Phone 615-834-9923 Fax www.dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bkahler1 at gmail.com From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Apr 10 05:56:23 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:23 -0400 Subject: [Spits] The Gathering Message-ID: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net> Hello list members. If any of you are going to be at The Gathering car show next Saturday, April 17, please stop by and say hello. We will be set up with a parts display. Gear starters to Kevlar brakes, suspension stuff and more. If you are attending and need any of our products brought down, here is the chance to save freight. Please let me know as soon as you can so we can get it packed.. Yes, we can bring big items such as engines, transmissions, etc. Thanks. See you there. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Sat Apr 10 18:15:50 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:15:50 -0600 Subject: [Spits] 1973 Triumph Stag on eBay Message-ID: <4BC114B6.1020207@triumphstagclub.org> Hi All, Happy Spring, Time to buy a reliable Stag! I posted my Triumph Stag on Ebay Motors, Item # 250613178556 or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250613178556&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123 Yep, it is mine again, price is significantly reduced to make room for other projects. Glenn! -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Sun Apr 11 16:41:50 2010 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 15:41:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Stuck Rear Trunion Bolt Message-ID: <249528.95164.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Fellow Listers; I hope everyone has had a pleasant day enjoying their Spitfires. The weather today in the Phila PA region has been very nice for top-down motoring. While working on my Spitfire's rear suspension, I have encountered a very stuck left rear trunion bolt. I've banged on it a while and it refuses to budge. My next idea is to heat the bolt and see if it will come free. Does anyone else have a suggestion to free up this bolt? If it won't come free I'll be forced to look for a used unit. If I remember correctly, another lister also encountered this problem very recently....so perhaps there's someone out there with some ideas for this issue. Thanks for your help, Matt Milkevitch'77 SpitfireWillow Grove, PA USA From nmoseley at dccnet.com Sun Apr 11 19:37:27 2010 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (nick Moseley) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 18:37:27 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Stuck Rear Trunion Bolt In-Reply-To: <249528.95164.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <249528.95164.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301cad9e0$b6745760$235d0620$@com> Matt, we've been there etc. There is a metal bushing surrounding that bolt, within the trunnion. Usually the bushing rusts to the bolt, and it's a bear to get out. If a few cycles of heat and cold don't let you break it loose, then use a hacksaw to cut both sides of it, then once removed, take the remnants to a hardware store and get a replacement bolt and nut. Save the bushing, or install a trunnion repair kit. HTH Nick Moseley -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matthew Milkevitch Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 3:42 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Stuck Rear Trunion Bolt Fellow Listers; I hope everyone has had a pleasant day enjoying their Spitfires. The weather today in the Phila PA region has been very nice for top-down motoring. While working on my Spitfire's rear suspension, I have encountered a very stuck left rear trunion bolt. I've banged on it a while and it refuses to budge. My next idea is to heat the bolt and see if it will come free. Does anyone else have a suggestion to free up this bolt? If it won't come free I'll be forced to look for a used unit. If I remember correctly, another lister also encountered this problem very recently....so perhaps there's someone out there with some ideas for this issue. Thanks for your help, Matt Milkevitch'77 SpitfireWillow Grove, PA USA __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5018 (20100411) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com From cwnfot at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 07:40:23 2010 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 09:40:23 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Stuck Rear Trunion Bolt In-Reply-To: <000301cad9e0$b6745760$235d0620$@com> References: <249528.95164.qm@web50907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <000301cad9e0$b6745760$235d0620$@com> Message-ID: <001e01cada45$b489aa80$1d9cff80$@com> Spread the verticals to make room for the hacksaw or saws-all. Be careful to only cut the bolt. Make sure to coat the bolt with grease or never seize for next time (probably won't be a next time, but good idea). No such thing as saving the bushing. Get a new kit for re-assembly! Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From elliottr at rmi.net Mon Apr 12 17:20:54 2010 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:20:54 -0500 Subject: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover Message-ID: <4BC3AAD6.4020405@rmi.net> Hi I am working on my engine and will have the timing chain cover off. So I was thinking about powder coating it. Will normal powder coating hold up to the temp for the timing chain cover, or does it need to be High Temp powder coat? Any suggestions for what would be a close to correct color to use? My cover is orange, I believe close to original. I know I painted it once before, but I tried to pick a color close to the original. Thanks, Roger Elliott From doug at dougbraun.com Mon Apr 12 19:52:35 2010 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 18:52:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover In-Reply-To: <4BC3AAD6.4020405@rmi.net> Message-ID: <825626.19338.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> BTW, my timing chain cover ('72) has a thick layer of sound-deadening material stuck on the front. Doug --- On Mon, 4/12/10, Roger Elliott wrote: > From: Roger Elliott > Subject: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover > To: spitfires at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, April 12, 2010, 7:20 PM > Hi > > I am working on my engine and will have the timing chain > cover off. So I was thinking about powder coating it. From superluke at execulink.com Wed Apr 14 10:19:43 2010 From: superluke at execulink.com (Luke Lewis) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:19:43 -0400 Subject: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover In-Reply-To: <825626.19338.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <825626.19338.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4BC5EB1F.3080805@execulink.com> Is THAT what that is? I thought it might be epoxy or something, some DPO's attempt at a repair... Doug Braun wrote: > BTW, my timing chain cover ('72) has a thick layer of sound-deadening material > stuck on the front. > > Doug From ronohlenkamp at msn.com Thu Apr 15 02:06:03 2010 From: ronohlenkamp at msn.com (RON OHLENKAMP) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 01:06:03 -0700 Subject: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover (Luke Lewis) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Luke, Standard powder coating should be just fine as long as you only do the outside. Use Glyptol on the inside (helps oil return faster) What is DPO? I've seen that before, just walked in from the garage after replacing the floorbaords (front and rear) in my wifes' 63 Spit. Never thought she could get me to spend 22 hours on my knees............................. > From: spitfires-request at autox.team.net > Subject: Spitfires Digest, Vol 4, Issue 41 > To: spitfires at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:00:02 -0600 > > Send Spitfires mailing list submissions to > spitfires at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > spitfires-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > spitfires-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Spitfires digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover (Luke Lewis) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 12:19:43 -0400 > From: Luke Lewis > Subject: Re: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover > To: Doug Braun , spitfires at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <4BC5EB1F.3080805 at execulink.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Is THAT what that is? I thought it might be epoxy or something, some > DPO's attempt at a repair... > > Doug Braun wrote: > > BTW, my timing chain cover ('72) has a thick layer of sound-deadening material > > stuck on the front. > > > > Doug > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Spitfires mailing list > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > > End of Spitfires Digest, Vol 4, Issue 41 > **************************************** _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283 26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 15 03:29:30 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 03:29:30 -0600 Subject: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover (Luke Lewis) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BC6DC7A.3090906@bradakis.com> > What is DPO? I've seen that before > DPO = [ ] Previous Owner. Use your own discretion for the D word, it could be delightful, dreaded, ... mjb. From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Apr 15 04:05:53 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 11:05:53 +0100 Subject: [Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover (Luke Lewis) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: "What is DPO? I've seen that before..." Dreaded (or Damned) Previous Owner - the guy you can blame for all the dodgy bodges and repairs that have been made to your car in the past. They can produce particularly interesting non-standard electrical modifications that defy all attempts to resolve, or even to explain if you do manage to work out what the hell they did. Politicians are particularly good at this tactic: "the economy / health service / education isn't screwed up because of what we've done, it was that way when we inherited it from the last incumbent." (Sorry, we've got an election on at the moment, it's hard to think of anything without politicians seeping into the process!). Richard (former owner of Daffy the '78 Spitfire) From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Apr 20 16:37:42 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:37:42 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Brake Woes - Message-ID: <380-220104220223742313@M2W109.mail2web.com> After noticing that the wifes 70 Spitfire brakes seemed to require a little more pressure to stop that I thought they should, I figured that I would look them over - It has been about 6 years since I built the car, and they would most likely need some attention anyway  I had another tandem master that I had rebuilt some time ago, but when I looked at it it had a .70 bore, so I thought that it might be a GT6 master. Back to the car to remove the one off the car to check it out. Hummm, it too is a .70 bore, so I did a little research and found that there appears, or may be two types, a 5/8 bore and a .70 bore (which is what the GT6 uses). On top of that the rebuild kits are listed as different for the GT6 vs. Spitfire MK3/4 tandem master, which leads me to believe that something is different, and that I may have a bunch of GT6 masters - but how do you tell?? The casting numbers on the side of every one are different basically 64676764xxx, x being the different part of the casting number. One has 041, 03, and one has 018 but all are .70 bore. Is there a 5/8 dual master for the MK3/4 Spitfire? I haven't pulled the one off my 72, which is original to see what size it is (maybe I should check it to make sure it isn't going bad as well, since I've had a rash of master cylinder problems as of late, just rebuilt the leaking GT6 and now this...) The .70 bore may explain why the pressure required was a little high to begin with. A 5/8th bore would require a little less pressure, albeit slightly more travel. All the ones I see listed new have .70 bore, and the later Spitfires use a .70 bore, (but the fittings and reservoir are different for the later unit). On a side note, the one I removed from the car is toast, a surprise to me. I have used Silicon fluid from day one when I built the car, and the secondary piston/spring/valve assy was rusted solid and the bore was ruined! I was under the belief that Silicon fluid was NOT Hygroscopic (meaning that it did NOT absorb water), so where did the water that rusted these parts come from?? Never had glycol based fluid in this car from the start - Now the GT6 master seals were shot, but the parts were clean as ever, and that system originally had Glycol fluid in it but when I did the Spitfire about 6 years ago, I flushed the system in the GT6, replaced the lines with braided, and used Silicon in it as well So that all my cars use the same fluid. It was a little disturbing to me...but that is for another thread - I will still use Silicon, if nothing more than to prevent the paint from being ruined when it does leak. I just may flush it every four years or so  -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From s1500 at comcast.net Sun Apr 25 16:32:06 2010 From: s1500 at comcast.net (Ryan) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 17:32:06 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Timing for dummies? Message-ID: <4BD4C2E6.5070607@comcast.net> With the Spit out and such, I'm getting horrible fuel economy with my DGV. I even set the fuel pressure regulator to 2.0 lbs. Next step: Adjusting the timing. Is there a good web page, etc to do timing adjustments for dummies? I've never done it before. If the timing changes doesn't work, I'm considering switching to an electric fuel pump. From rbgosling at googlemail.com Mon Apr 26 03:32:50 2010 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:32:50 +0100 Subject: [Spits] Timing for dummies? In-Reply-To: <4BD4C2E6.5070607@comcast.net> References: <4BD4C2E6.5070607@comcast.net> Message-ID: Basic principle for timing - as far advanced as you can get it (with the fuel you usually use) without the engine pinking (or pinging, as it's called in the US). Go for a run. With the engine warmed up, floor the accelerator in a high gear with low revs (around 1500-2000rpm). Do you get a somewhat diesely knocking noise? If not, try advancing the timing a little. Repeat test, advance some more, until you do get pinking. Then back the timing off slightly. Using a higher octane fuel will allow you to have more advance, but if you then change to a lower-grade fuel you may start pinking. Modern electronic ignition systems do this in a more clever way. They have a "knock sensor", and will constantly advance the timing until the engine is on the verge of knocking. This way, you can stick any old fuel in a modern car and it will automatically adjust the timing to get the best out of the fuel. Note - this applies to modern engines with complete engine control systems, not to an old Triumph with a Pertronix conversion! Correct timing should help fuel economy, at least a bit. It's also important to get timing right before you start mucking about with carbs. Oh, and before you start fine-tuning your ajustment, check that the system is operating as it should do. Check the points gap. Detach the vacuum tube from the manifold and suck on it, you should see the plate rotate. Smear some vaseline on the distributor cam to lubricate it. Check the condition of the distributor cap (should have no cracks). Check the condition of the spark plugs, check the spark plug gap (you'll need a feeler gauge, I'm afraid I can't remember the correct gap off the top of my head). Borrow or buy (they aren't too expensive) a timing light, use it to get the initial timing setting, and make sure that the timing advances as the revs rise. Hope that helps!! Richard On 25 April 2010 23:32, Ryan wrote: > With the Spit out and such, I'm getting horrible fuel economy with my DGV. > I even set the fuel pressure regulator to 2.0 lbs. Next step: Adjusting the > timing. > > Is there a good web page, etc to do timing adjustments for dummies? I've > never done it before. If the timing changes doesn't work, I'm considering > switching to an electric fuel pump. > _______________________________________________ > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/rbgosling at googlemail.com From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Apr 27 09:04:13 2010 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 11:04:13 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - Message-ID: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> I am going to be rebuilding and replacing my wifes 1296 Spitfire with a 1500 lump, and since I will be pulling the engine, I was also considering fixing the problem I have had since the initial restoration of the car about 6 years ago, and that is with the synchros in the transmission. This transmission is a single rail 1975 overdrive box, and at the time I had replaced all the synchros with new. They have never been right, grinding in almost every gear unless you allow a second or two between shifts, or double clutch. Forget about fast shifting - I was really disappointed with the initial rebuild, and as such am hesitant to do it all over again, especially since I have heard similar stories with problem replacement synchros  I am not about to buy new synchros and go through all the work to replace them, only to have the same problem - Has the bad synchro problem been fixed or are they all still junk?? -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From spitlist at cox.net Tue Apr 27 10:11:29 2010 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:11:29 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - In-Reply-To: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> References: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <1DD07C9E5C5B4C4DB7A19B7AB85D4D59@joepentiumnew> Barry, What I have heard (and can't say from personal experience) is that the new synchro rings you can buy these days are not even close to being as good as the original ones. If that is indeed the case, I would be looking for some NOS ones. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 8:04 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - I am going to be rebuilding and replacing my wifes 1296 Spitfire with a 1500 lump, and since I will be pulling the engine, I was also considering fixing the problem I have had since the initial restoration of the car about 6 years ago, and that is with the synchros in the transmission. This transmission is a single rail 1975 overdrive box, and at the time I had replaced all the synchros with new. They have never been right, grinding in almost every gear unless you allow a second or two between shifts, or double clutch. Forget about fast shifting - I was really disappointed with the initial rebuild, and as such am hesitant to do it all over again, especially since I have heard similar stories with problem replacement synchros  I am not about to buy new synchros and go through all the work to replace them, only to have the same problem - Has the bad synchro problem been fixed or are they all still junk?? -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/spitlist at cox.net From jholmgren at gmail.com Tue Apr 27 10:24:08 2010 From: jholmgren at gmail.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 12:24:08 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - In-Reply-To: <1DD07C9E5C5B4C4DB7A19B7AB85D4D59@joepentiumnew> References: <380-22010422715413766@M2W134.mail2web.com> <1DD07C9E5C5B4C4DB7A19B7AB85D4D59@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: I can second that. My rebuilt OD transmission (rebuilt by a well-know shop) has the 'new' synchros. 2nd to 3rd cannot be done quickly without some major grindage. When I rebuilt my old 4-speed about 3 years ago, we had a pile of both "new" and NOS synchros on the bench and you could actually tell by manually twisting them with the respective gear which ones were new and which were NOS, even though they looked identical to the naked eye. The NOS synchros would grab very nicely, the new ones would slip. Unfortunately I have not heard anything recently about the situation improving. Jim On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 12:11 PM, Joe Curry wrote: > Barry, > What I have heard (and can't say from personal experience) is that the new > synchro rings you can buy these days are not even close to being as good as > the original ones. If that is indeed the case, I would be looking for some > NOS ones. From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Apr 27 10:51:29 2010 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 12:51:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] Replacement transmissin synchro problems - Message-ID: <20100427125129.ASO43026@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Jim Holmgren wrote: > My rebuilt OD transmission (rebuilt by a well-know shop) > has the 'new' synchros. 2nd to 3rd cannot be done quickly > without some major grindage. A few years ago I got a rebuilt Spitfire 3-rail gearbox from one of the "well-known shops" and it had crunching problems. And before that I got a rebuilt unit from Spitbits for the GT6 after its geabox imploded on the road. It too had crunching problems. Winter before this last I tore down the GT6 box in search for a whine (didn't find it but I think I know why, not too worried yet) and two of the synchros looked worn as measured by the clearance. I replaced them with new parts. The new parts showed much more clearance, and now it shifts smoothly with no crunching. I suspect that the rebuilders (different houses in different parts of the world, I would imagine) try to save money by re-using parts that look okay. They just hazve a loose definition of what is still okay. Jim Muller From superluke at execulink.com Thu Apr 29 10:40:10 2010 From: superluke at execulink.com (Luke Lewis) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 12:40:10 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [Wedge] Carb Backfire with SU Conversion In-Reply-To: <25384967.1272481565922.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <25384967.1272481565922.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4BD9B66A.40805@execulink.com> /cry3x8: Permission denied From tedtsimx at bright.net Thu Apr 29 13:47:25 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:47:25 -0400 Subject: [Spits] mport Carlisle Message-ID: <4BD9E24D.7060905@bright.net> We will beat Carlisle. Spaces E63 & E64. If you have something you need for me to bring out, please let me know.Save on shipping - especially if a large item(s). Will be there Thursday afternoon through late Saturday afternoon. Will have steelbraid hoses, suspension components, our gear reduction starters and much more. Please come by and say hello. Thanks,Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022