From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Mar 2 06:35:35 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 08:35:35 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: <380-22009312133535376@M2W015.mail2web.com> Well listers, we secured our hotel for Triumphest/VTR (better hurry,rooms are going fast), but are wondering about the rules for the VTR Concours. We haven't filled out the form yet because of a few items in question We thought we would try this venue since it would be the first time we would be able to attend. We have what we think is a fairly decent car for this year, that should do fair (at least we think), but would we be dinged for the 165/70 tires (instead of 155s) on chrome spoke (vs. painted) rims, Chrome plated air cleaner, Lecarra steering wheel, alloy valve cover, or overdrive on a car that originally didnt have one? Some of these items could be changed relatively easily but others (like the overdrive or wheels) would be expensive and require a lot of work Something I'm not really willing to do for only one judging event - So how heavy handed are the rules?? Would this be considered a modified?? Certainly many (if not all) of these things were considered period aftermarket items are those OK? Anyway, we are looking forward to the event, but we were really QUITE disappointed that we couldnt book only three days at the Embassy Hotel. If you wanted four that was available, but we are not able to take that much time off  three was stretching it(not to mention the expense)! Not pointing fingers, or trying to start a flame war or anything, but I think that a lot of folks will be in the same situation, and its a shame that they wont be able to stay at the hotel the event is at simply because the hotel requires a four night stay! In the twenty or more years that I have been attending Triumphest, I have never had a problem securing rooms for two or three nights, and we have NEVER reserved rooms this early. But apparently, this time was different! So well be staying at the overflow Best Western, which by the way is a bit cheaper oh well, at any rate, hope to see a lot of you there! Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Mar 2 12:07:59 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 14:07:59 EST Subject: [Spits] [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: Barry, VTR Judges are instructed to allow the next size up, 165 tires as stock on Spitfires since the 155's are extremely hard to find. 165's are also allowed on TR2's & TR3's for the same reason. Chrome wire wheels are considered period equipment since they were available from dealers. The wheels should have the correct number of spokes for the model with the following exception: TR2's & TR3's are allowed 60 spokes instead of 48 for safety reasons. Overdrive on a non-overdrive Triumph is allowed since one could buy an overdrive conversion kit from the dealer. The rest of the items you mentioned would receive deduction if you were showing your Spitfire in Showroom stock. If you were showing in Modified (Touring or Prepared) no deductions would be taken for originality and the items would be judged for quality only. One possible exception could be the steering wheel if you could document it as a period piece. Not sure about the Lecarra. Hope this Helps, Feel free to contact me off list for any other questions. Cheers, Darrell Floyd VTR Chief Judge 70 Spitfire MK3 Modified Prepared 76 Spitfire 1500 Showroom Stock In a message dated 3/2/2009 8:36:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: We thought we would try this venue since it would be the first time we would be able to attend. We have what we think is a fairly decent car for this year, that should do fair (at least we think), but would we be dinged for the 165/70 tires (instead of 155s) on chrome spoke (vs. painted) rims, Chrome plated air cleaner, Lecarra steering wheel, alloy valve cover, or overdrive on a car that originally didnt have one? Some of these items could be changed relatively easily but others (like the overdrive or wheels) would be expensive and require a lot of work Something I'm not really willing to do for only one judging event - So how heavy handed are the rules?? Would this be considered a modified?? Certainly many (if not all) of these things were considered period aftermarket items are those OK? **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Mar 3 17:23:54 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 17:23:54 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090303172354.1eb7576a@pop.west.cox.net> Geez guys, your scaring me...I was going to drive the GT6 from here in San Diego to the event, participate in the concours, have fun, then drive home. While my paint is pretty good, it's not perfect. Heck I drive this car and it has some road nicks on the front especially along the lower valance. If you get dinged for road debris (rubber in the wheel wells etc) then I would be sunk!! :-) The suspension pieces have road nicks and some dirt from years of driving. they aren't particularly bad, but certainly not perfect showroom pieces. The shocks, while Konis and period correct if I read things right, are still orange, but road worn -- I repainted the car, but that was 20 some years ago - if it has to be showroom new and spotless underneath and out I'll never make it!! Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Sat Mar 7 14:49:00 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2009 16:49:00 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Test Message-ID: <004d01c99f6e$865cd6e0$931684a0$@net> Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Mar 9 17:34:37 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Mon, 09 Mar 2009 17:34:37 Subject: [Spits] 1970 GT6+ overdrive switch - Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090309173437.19571afa@pop.west.cox.net> Can anyone verify that the correct placement for the overdrive switch on my GT6+ is indeed on the right side of the column, with the lever in a downward pointing position - In my quest to restore the GT6 back to as near original condition as possible, I am re-installing the column mounted overdrive switch as it would have come from the factory, replacing the knob mounted on that I installed - Don't know if I'll really like it, but I can always put it back after the VTR/Triumphest Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From spitlist at cox.net Mon Mar 9 23:19:05 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 23:19:05 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Looking to buy Early Spit Message-ID: I have an acquaintance who is looking for an early Spitfire that is running and ready to drive. It does not have to be a show car but a driver that can be tinkered with while driving. He wants one that is 1967 or earlier because of emissions issues where he lives. He will travel to one of the following states to purchase: Nevada, California, Arizona, New Mexico, Oregon, Washington, Utah, Colorado. If anyone has something that fits these requirements, Let me know and I will pass on your information. I have no financial interest in this transaction. Regards, Joe Curry From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Mar 10 04:04:06 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 07:04:06 -0400 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Looking to buy Early Spit In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49B610E6.1799.27C93A75@localhost> On 9 Mar 2009 at 23:19, Joe Curry wrote: > It does not have to be a show car but a driver that can be > tinkered with while driving. And does he intend to use his cell phone too? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jhmdds at aol.com Tue Mar 10 11:13:31 2009 From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 14:13:31 -0400 Subject: [Spits] spitfire springs and things Message-ID: <636833e4.5375.4201.9b7e.544ba36a2ba4@aol.com> I've lost the spring that holds the brushes inside my wiper motor together. Does anyone have a source for these small springs? Also a few weeks ago there was a post about a set up that used pneumatic tubes to hold open the bonnet. Could someone send me the details on that? Thanks, James Maddox '66 Spitfire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From my79spitfire at aol.com Wed Mar 11 11:16:00 2009 From: my79spitfire at aol.com (GL Bush) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 14:16:00 -0400 Subject: [Spits] spitfire springs and things (jhmdds) Message-ID: <8CB708C90F3937D-F38-3EEE@webmail-dh14.sysops.aol.com> James, I would think an electrical shop that overhauls electric motors and alternators might be a good source for the springs for your wiper motor. Here is the link to Paul Tegler's site showing the gas strut installation.? I have installed these on both of my Spits and it is great.? http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/gasstruts/index.html Good luck. Geof Bush Michigan '79 Spit 1500 (soon to be CGT 6) '81 Canadian Spit 1500 '73 GT6 MKIII (donor) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From douglashansen at yahoo.com Wed Mar 11 12:56:23 2009 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 12:56:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Spit race hoods FS in TX Message-ID: <919090.44047.qm@web52211.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Im just fwding the info to the lists. NFI etc... contact Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com I really want to get all three of them out of the way--$800 for the lot. I'll take a took at that one stock metal bonnet, but I'm pretty sure it is for a Spitfire as well. All of them, including the fiberglass one, appear to be solid--no cracks, dents or other damage--just age. By the way, I have a couple of SCCA modified Spitfire bonnet assemblies, one is fiberglass and the other is metal, both with flared front wheel wells. I also have a stock bonnet assembly. Had to buy these parts to get some TR-4 stuff. If you know of anyone who is racing Spits, or who might be interested in the bonnets, let me know. I'll take $800 for all three. I appreciate your passing this on to your Spitfire folks. Bill Herridge Gatesville, Texas 76528 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kmbeam at comcast.net Fri Mar 13 03:28:13 2009 From: kmbeam at comcast.net (kmbeam at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 10:28:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spits] Empty 28 foot enclosed trailer, VA to WA, departing 28/29 Mar Message-ID: <2015426483.10511236940093411.JavaMail.root@sz0099a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I have a good friend departing Richmond, VA for Washington State on 28 or 29 March and returning before Easter. ? He will drive a 2007 Chevy dually pulling an empty 28 foot enclosed Haulmark Trailer - weight/power is not an issue. ? He is an Army Major who commanded a helicopter troop in Afghanistan in 07/08 - his reliability is not an issue. ? His trailer has a winch so he can handle cars that are not running (I know, ? that NEVER happens to OUR cars). He has the ability to secure just about any load. ? He is returning with a vehicle but will be able to haul some other items such as engine blocks, axles, furniture, etcetera. Please contact Lee at hyders4 at yahoo.com to coordinate. NFI here ? just trying to help those who enjoy our hobby and a good man. Kevin Beam 57 TR3 70 Spitfire 81 TR8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhmdds at aol.com Fri Mar 13 06:13:19 2009 From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 09:13:19 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Springs and things revisited Message-ID: <70493ccf.6d77.4ded.8dd2.99e721466eba@aol.com> First, thanks for all the suggestions regarding my wiper motor spring problem. I have been looking on some miniature spring manufacturer websites. There appear to be many options for wire size, spring I and O diameters, spring length and rate, as well as wire composition. I know the spring was small, tightly coiled but very pliable. Does anyone have any idea what parameters I need for this spring? Thanks, James Maddox '66 Spitfire with the square motor -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com Mon Mar 16 08:15:27 2009 From: BrianSmith1 at templeinland.com (Smith, Brian (CP)) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 10:15:27 -0500 Subject: [Spits] British car shop in Alabama... Message-ID: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247239B@p0387psw0200.myInland.com> Listers, There was a person who used to post on this list that had a British repair shop in Alabama. Does anybody know who that was/is, or if you are that person, please tag me via email. Tanks, Brian Smith Environmental Specialist Temple Inland Bogalusa Mill ********** Confidentiality Notice ********** This electronic transmission and any attached documents or other writings are confidential and are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) identified above. This message may contain information that is privileged, confidential or otherwise protected from disclosure under applicable law. If the receiver of this information is not the intended recipient, or the employee, or agent responsible for delivering the information to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, reading, dissemination, distribution, copying or storage of this information is strictly prohibited. If you have received this information in error, please notify the sender by return email and delete the electronic transmission, including all attachments from your system. From krhodes1 at maine.rr.com Mon Mar 16 08:34:05 2009 From: krhodes1 at maine.rr.com (Kevin Rhodes) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 11:34:05 -0400 Subject: [Spits] British car shop in Alabama... In-Reply-To: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247239B@p0387psw0200.myInla nd.com> References: <0BE807693DADFC41BA5106B845AE05E247239B@p0387psw0200.myInland.com> Message-ID: <20090316153407.HLDH18800.hrndva-omta06.mail.rr.com@nas.maine.rr.com> I'm not him, and I don't know if this is who you are looking for but: Ben Pender Klassic Autos Vintage European Auto service, repair, and parts Madison, AL 256-489-9560 I know him from the Volvo list I am on. Kevin Rhodes Westbrook, Maine Freddy the Spitfire - first drive of the year yesterday! At 11:15 AM 3/16/2009, Smith, Brian (CP) wrote: >Listers, > > > >There was a person who used to post on this list that had a British >repair shop in Alabama. Does anybody know who that was/is, or if you >are that person, please tag me via email. Tanks, > > > > > > > >Brian Smith > >Environmental Specialist > >Temple Inland > >Bogalusa Mill > > > >********** Confidentiality Notice ********** >This electronic transmission and any attached documents or other writings > are confidential and are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) >identified above. This message may contain information that is privileged, >confidential or otherwise protected from disclosure under applicable law. >If the receiver of this information is not the intended recipient, or the >employee, or agent responsible for delivering the information to the >intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, reading, >dissemination, distribution, copying or storage of this information is >strictly prohibited. If you have received this information in error, please >notify the sender by return email and delete the electronic transmission, >including all attachments from your system. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Spitfires at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > >http://www.team.net/archive From mbarre at juno.com Mon Mar 16 14:18:23 2009 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 21:18:23 GMT Subject: [Spits] Repair in Bama Message-ID: <20090316.171823.15679.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> Mike Darby has a restoration shop over on the eastern shore of Mobile Bay. He does exceptional work and is heavily involved with the South Alabama British Car Club. Google SABCC for the link to their site. He has a monthly spot in their newsletter. Matt Barre ____________________________________________________________ Digital Photography - Click Now. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmRIblLWa3EbKMiFF3PFz51c1 s8VJJkuvrX2pgQPi36Ci2ge4eM/ From s1500 at comcast.net Tue Mar 17 07:12:51 2009 From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 09:12:51 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Torque specs on tranny bolt? Message-ID: <49BFAFE3.1010806@comcast.net> Okay, so the weather is finally getting better in the twin cities, enough to soon get working on the car again. I last left my Spitfire needing a bolt to be re-torqued right on the gearshifter. More specifically, it's a bolt that got loosened by its own that made for some super-sloppy gearshifts. What would be the recommended torque spec for bolts that hold on the gearshifter ball, etc? I bought a fresh tube of loctite, leaving it indoors(so it won't freeze up) ready to apply so I won't have to do this again. From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Wed Mar 18 13:51:40 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 16:51:40 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link Message-ID: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> In tearing down my Spit Six project, I think that I found a problem. In my car, the vertical link for the rotorflex GT6 has the wishbone attached to the lowest point on the vertical link, with the radius arm and shock attached to the vertical link that is just above, about 2 inches higher. However, VB, SpitBits, Moss Motors, Rimmer Brothers, and even Haynes, all show that the radius arm attaches to the vertical link at the lowest point. I thought maybe that a DPO got it wrong and attached the wishbone at the wrong location. However, the opening of the wishbone will only fit the width of the vertical link at the lowest hole. I have a new set of aluminum wishbones and they match the configuration of the old cast iron wishbones. Did I find a mistake in all of the reference materials? Could someone with a GT6 with the rotorflex rear end confirm just where the vertical links are to be attached? TIA. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" From spitlist at cox.net Wed Mar 18 13:59:31 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 13:59:31 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link In-Reply-To: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> References: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> Message-ID: Dan, If you look at the photos in this link: http://members.cox.net/spitlist/VetteDiff.htm You will see how I have mine attached. See if that correlates to what you have. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 1:52 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link In tearing down my Spit Six project, I think that I found a problem. In my car, the vertical link for the rotorflex GT6 has the wishbone attached to the lowest point on the vertical link, with the radius arm and shock attached to the vertical link that is just above, about 2 inches higher. However, VB, SpitBits, Moss Motors, Rimmer Brothers, and even Haynes, all show that the radius arm attaches to the vertical link at the lowest point. I thought maybe that a DPO got it wrong and attached the wishbone at the wrong location. However, the opening of the wishbone will only fit the width of the vertical link at the lowest hole. I have a new set of aluminum wishbones and they match the configuration of the old cast iron wishbones. Did I find a mistake in all of the reference materials? Could someone with a GT6 with the rotorflex rear end confirm just where the vertical links are to be attached? TIA. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From douglashansen at yahoo.com Wed Mar 18 14:04:18 2009 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 14:04:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link In-Reply-To: References: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> Message-ID: <607949.71132.qm@web52212.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Joe now thats funny. Hows your double decker trailer doing? you know you have to keep all of us posted if you bring Tiny Tim to the east coast b/c we all want to see it in person! Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ________________________________ From: Joe Curry To: Daniel Parrott ; spitfires at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 4:59:31 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link Dan, If you look at the photos in this link: http://members.cox.net/spitlist/VetteDiff.htm You will see how I have mine attached. See if that correlates to what you have. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 1:52 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link In tearing down my Spit Six project, I think that I found a problem. In my car, the vertical link for the rotorflex GT6 has the wishbone attached to the lowest point on the vertical link, with the radius arm and shock attached to the vertical link that is just above, about 2 inches higher. However, VB, SpitBits, Moss Motors, Rimmer Brothers, and even Haynes, all show that the radius arm attaches to the vertical link at the lowest point. I thought maybe that a DPO got it wrong and attached the wishbone at the wrong location. However, the opening of the wishbone will only fit the width of the vertical link at the lowest hole. I have a new set of aluminum wishbones and they match the configuration of the old cast iron wishbones. Did I find a mistake in all of the reference materials? Could someone with a GT6 with the rotorflex rear end confirm just where the vertical links are to be attached? TIA. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Thu Mar 19 13:27:09 2009 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 15:27:09 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link In-Reply-To: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> References: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> Message-ID: hi Dan Yep, apparently the suppliers all copy the same drawing from the factory manual, which several decades some poor technical illustrator got slightly wrong ago, by showing the radius arm bracket attaching to the lower link through bolt instead of the slightly higher mounting hole. C'est la vie. Pic of the attachment point for the radius arm from Paul Gethner's site: http://www.geocities.com/star_shine_3/GTMK312.JPG and of the rear damper attachment from Paul Tegler's site: http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/blackbeasty/gt6rotogoldie1.jpg cheers Scott > From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net > In tearing down my Spit Six project, I think that I found a problem. In my > car, the vertical link for the rotorflex GT6 has the wishbone attached to > the lowest point on the vertical link, with the radius arm and shock > attached to the vertical link that is just above, about 2 inches higher. > However, VB, SpitBits, Moss Motors, Rimmer Brothers, and even Haynes, all > show that the radius arm attaches to the vertical link at the lowest point. > I thought maybe that a DPO got it wrong and attached the wishbone at the > wrong location. However, the opening of the wishbone will only fit the > width of the vertical link at the lowest hole. I have a new set of > aluminum wishbones and they match the configuration of the old cast iron > wishbones. > Did I find a mistake in all of the reference materials? Could someone with > a GT6 with the rotorflex rear end confirm just where the vertical links are > to be attached? _________________________________________________________________ Reunite with the people closest to you, chat face to face with Messenger. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9650736 From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Thu Mar 19 14:37:05 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 17:37:05 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link In-Reply-To: References: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> Message-ID: <01ae01c9a8da$d99aaf60$8cd00e20$@net> Great! This confirms my suspicions. I wonder what else is wrong out there in our manuals. BTW, how hard was it to remove that bolt that attaches the wishbone to the upright? It looks like my bolt is frozen solid to the upright and will have to be pressed out. Thanks. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" From: scotts junk [mailto:smacsjunk at hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 4:27 PM To: parrotthead01 at comcast.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link hi Dan Yep, apparently the suppliers all copy the same drawing from the factory manual, which several decades some poor technical illustrator got slightly wrong ago, by showing the radius arm bracket attaching to the lower link through bolt instead of the slightly higher mounting hole. C'est la vie. Pic of the attachment point for the radius arm from Paul Gethner's site: http://www.geocities.com/star_shine_3/GTMK312.JPG and of the rear damper attachment from Paul Tegler's site: http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/blackbeasty/gt6rotogoldie1.jpg cheers Scott > From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net > In tearing down my Spit Six project, I think that I found a problem. In my > car, the vertical link for the rotorflex GT6 has the wishbone attached to > the lowest point on the vertical link, with the radius arm and shock > attached to the vertical link that is just above, about 2 inches higher. > However, VB, SpitBits, Moss Motors, Rimmer Brothers, and even Haynes, all > show that the radius arm attaches to the vertical link at the lowest point. > I thought maybe that a DPO got it wrong and attached the wishbone at the > wrong location. However, the opening of the wishbone will only fit the > width of the vertical link at the lowest hole. I have a new set of > aluminum wishbones and they match the configuration of the old cast iron > wishbones. > Did I find a mistake in all of the reference materials? Could someone with > a GT6 with the rotorflex rear end confirm just where the vertical links are > to be attached? _____ Messenger has tons of new features that make chatting more fun. Click here to learn more. From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Fri Mar 20 14:46:18 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:46:18 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link In-Reply-To: References: <00c801c9a80b$56c4e260$044ea720$@net> Message-ID: <023b01c9a9a5$4d25a320$e770e960$@net> Well, with a lot of heat and a lot of pressure, both bolts are now removed.. Now to the next challenge! From: scotts junk [mailto:smacsjunk at hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 4:27 PM To: parrotthead01 at comcast.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Spits] Rear Vertical Link hi Dan Yep, apparently the suppliers all copy the same drawing from the factory manual, which several decades some poor technical illustrator got slightly wrong ago, by showing the radius arm bracket attaching to the lower link through bolt instead of the slightly higher mounting hole. C'est la vie. Pic of the attachment point for the radius arm from Paul Gethner's site: http://www.geocities.com/star_shine_3/GTMK312.JPG and of the rear damper attachment from Paul Tegler's site: http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/blackbeasty/gt6rotogoldie1.jpg cheers Scott > From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net > In tearing down my Spit Six project, I think that I found a problem. In my > car, the vertical link for the rotorflex GT6 has the wishbone attached to > the lowest point on the vertical link, with the radius arm and shock > attached to the vertical link that is just above, about 2 inches higher. > However, VB, SpitBits, Moss Motors, Rimmer Brothers, and even Haynes, all > show that the radius arm attaches to the vertical link at the lowest point. > I thought maybe that a DPO got it wrong and attached the wishbone at the > wrong location. However, the opening of the wishbone will only fit the > width of the vertical link at the lowest hole. I have a new set of > aluminum wishbones and they match the configuration of the old cast iron > wishbones. > Did I find a mistake in all of the reference materials? Could someone with > a GT6 with the rotorflex rear end confirm just where the vertical links are > to be attached? _____ Messenger has tons of new features that make chatting more fun. Click here to learn more. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Mar 24 07:58:18 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 14:58:18 -0000 Subject: [Spits] 'Slightly' off topic request Message-ID: <08474AF0F2EB455FA26AF9C1DD12B248@Bevan> Hi, Everyone The Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive draws ever closer and I'm now into trying to sort out comms (communications). While the car is going to be fitted with an Air-Trak system for people to see where I am at any given time, there's also the important issue of 'keeping in touch.' This can be sorted by having a cellphone in the car. Thing is, my own cellphone is a contract type and the contract expires while I'm away. The additional difficulty is that while its a Tri-Band unit, if anyone wants to call me or I want to call them, the costs will be horrendous. To contact me, you'd have to dial a UK number to reach me (even though I might just be down the road) and similarly, my calls to you would also be routed via the local airtime provider to the UK and then back again. I discovered this very much to my cost when at Watkins Glen last September. So my request is this. Does anyone have or know of someone who has a Pre-Pay / Pay As You Go cellphone that originates in the US/Canada they would be prepared to loan or donate to the cause ? While I don't know of all the US/Canadian airtime providers, moseying around the web suggests that Verizon has the most comprehensive coverage - but I'm more than happy to be guided on that issue. I know that Pre-Paid is a costlier route to take in comparison to a contract agreement, but as my stay is only going to be a maximum of four months at the most, it seems pointless. I'm also a bit reluctant to use an additional phone that could be on someone else's contract from the simple perspective of meeting my share of the costs. Therefore, keeping to a pre-pay concept seems the simplest and best way to go. Of course, if anyone knows an airtime provider who would be willing to supply a cellphone with a goodly dollop of free airtime to get me going, we'd be delighted to accept the offer in return for a prominently displayed decal on the Stag. Please be aware that there are already indications of radio and TV networks wanting to contact me, so an in-car phone isn't simply so that SWMBO can keep an eye on me! Any offers, please contact me off list Cheers - Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Mar 26 12:15:22 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:15:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query Message-ID: <20090326151522.CCM94506@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> I drove my GT6 in to work this morning. I'm happy to report that the gearbox worked just fine. I must report unhappily that the clutch is more needy, which is to say less clutchy. It's a problem I've wrestled with before. As I'm driving it seems to build pressure in the hydraulics so that eventually the clutch slips. The quick fix is to crack open the nut where the line goes into the master cylinder, allowing a teaspoon or so of clutch fluif, which is to say brake fluif to escape. It did this a few days ago on a brief drive. It did it again this morning while I was tooling down the highway. A common condition for most occasions that I recall is that it was cold when I started out. And I suspect that if I mash the pedal down too hard it can bring on this condition. Or least not mashing it hard seemed to have avoided it for a long time. I'd suspect a sticky slave cylinder except that this morning it seemed to have come on when I wasn't using the clutch at all. At least not that I recall. Okay, maybe once. An alternate stickiness factor could be the clutch arm scraping against the tunnel cover. I can check it but it's one of those space-age plastic covers with no dangling insulation underneath, so I doubt this possibility. It really seems to correlate to heat. So the question: Is there evidence to suggest that brake fluif expands noticeably with moderate heat? (It isn't getting especially hot.) Perhaps older fluif that might have absorbed water sitting even in an opened once but tightly sealed container? Of course, the obvious fix is just to purchase new cylinders, clear out the line, then use DOT5. Spitbits lists the SC at about $50, the MC OEM for about $150 and MC repro for about $65, IIRC. tanks, Jim Muller '70 GT6+ '80 Spitfire From spitlist at cox.net Thu Mar 26 12:27:44 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 12:27:44 -0700 Subject: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query In-Reply-To: <20090326151522.CCM94506@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20090326151522.CCM94506@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <54D22FA10BB14E2890ECB6A7229E594C@joepentiumnew> I had this problem with the front brake cylinder on Tiny Tim after I installed the Tilton balance bar. What was happening was the piston was not being allowed to come far enough forward to relieve the pressure in the line. As a result, after a few cycles of braking, the pressure would build up and lock the pads to the rotors. Cracking the bleed valve was enough to reset the system, but redoing the push rod on the master cylinder was required to fix the problem. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; Spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query I drove my GT6 in to work this morning. I'm happy to report that the gearbox worked just fine. I must report unhappily that the clutch is more needy, which is to say less clutchy. It's a problem I've wrestled with before. As I'm driving it seems to build pressure in the hydraulics so that eventually the clutch slips. The quick fix is to crack open the nut where the line goes into the master cylinder, allowing a teaspoon or so of clutch fluif, which is to say brake fluif to escape. It did this a few days ago on a brief drive. It did it again this morning while I was tooling down the highway. A common condition for most occasions that I recall is that it was cold when I started out. And I suspect that if I mash the pedal down too hard it can bring on this condition. Or least not mashing it hard seemed to have avoided it for a long time. I'd suspect a sticky slave cylinder except that this morning it seemed to have come on when I wasn't using the clutch at all. At least not that I recall. Okay, maybe once. An alternate stickiness factor could be the clutch arm scraping against the tunnel cover. I can check it but it's one of those space-age plastic covers with no dangling insulation underneath, so I doubt this possibility. It really seems to correlate to heat. So the question: Is there evidence to suggest that brake fluif expands noticeably with moderate heat? (It isn't getting especially hot.) Perhaps older fluif that might have absorbed water sitting even in an opened once but tightly sealed container? Of course, the obvious fix is just to purchase new cylinders, clear out the line, then use DOT5. Spitbits lists the SC at about $50, the MC OEM for about $150 and MC repro for about $65, IIRC. tanks, Jim Muller '70 GT6+ '80 Spitfire Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Mar 26 13:33:26 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 16:33:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query Message-ID: <20090326163326.CCN12985@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Thanks to all who responded so quickly. > ...preventing the pedal from coming up all the way. The problem I have with this explanation (and all similar) is that if the pedal doesn't come up all the way it would also start its next journey down from that same depressed position. (My clutch pedal is depressed? Should it see a therapist?) Displacement at one end equals displacement at the other, and the total volume in the system shouldn't change unless one moves and the other doesn't. On the other hand, I can't discount all y'all's experiences either. they certainly fall in with Dave M's suggestion that the fluif return valve isn't working. Time for new hydraulics unless I happen to have rebuild kits already on my shelf and the cylinder bores are in good shape. In any case, I really needed one more thing to do. :-) Tanks again! From spitlist at cox.net Thu Mar 26 13:53:55 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 13:53:55 -0700 Subject: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query In-Reply-To: <20090326163326.CCN12985@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20090326163326.CCN12985@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: The clutch master is identical to the brake master on early Spits (except the brake master has a larger reservoir). The relief mechanism is simply that the piston has to come all the way back to its resting position. This allows the line to bleed back into the reservoir and the pressure dissipates. So it this is not happening, something is restricting it. Could be that something is worn inside the master cylinder or the petal is being restricted in some way. If it is the master, it is not all that expensive to rebuild it unless the bore is extremely worn or pitted. Mechanical restrictions are probably much easier to fix. When I experienced this in my brake system, it was caused by my inattention to detail when I added the Tilton brake bias system. I had to build new rods and did not allow enough play to let the piston come to the normal resting position. A little grinding resolved the problem very quickly. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:33 PM To: Spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query Thanks to all who responded so quickly. > ...preventing the pedal from coming up all the way. The problem I have with this explanation (and all similar) is that if the pedal doesn't come up all the way it would also start its next journey down from that same depressed position. (My clutch pedal is depressed? Should it see a therapist?) Displacement at one end equals displacement at the other, and the total volume in the system shouldn't change unless one moves and the other doesn't. On the other hand, I can't discount all y'all's experiences either. they certainly fall in with Dave M's suggestion that the fluif return valve isn't working. Time for new hydraulics unless I happen to have rebuild kits already on my shelf and the cylinder bores are in good shape. In any case, I really needed one more thing to do. :-) Tanks again! Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 27 10:37:54 2009 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 10:37:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff Message-ID: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi All, Since I blowed up the diff in our '68 GT6, I went out & purchased a diff from a '79 Spit. I went ahead & pulled the back off the blowed up punkin...not good inside there! I wanted to use the case from the GT6 diff with the 6 studs rather than the 4 stud Spit case. Well, not being an expert on these cars, I decided against tearing the Spit case apart. The problem is, I cannot separate the spring from the diff. I see there's some sort of pin in the center...certainly it's not holding the spring to the case? How is this done? I'm going to use the GT6 spring. Cheers, Todd Bermudez #596 Cincinnati, OH '68 GT6 RHD '66 GT6 RHD '67 GT6 LHD From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Fri Mar 27 10:52:44 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 13:52:44 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff In-Reply-To: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00f001c9af04$d571ba20$80552e60$@net> I just removed the leaf spring from the diff of my SpitSix project car. On top, there is a rectangular plate, under that, there is the spring. There are 6 double-threaded bolts that go through a rectangular top plate and into the top of the diff on either side of the spring. The hole in the rectangular plate matches up with the "button" or pin in the center of the leaf spring. Is this what you have? -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Bermudez Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 1:38 PM To: NASS Spitfire; Spitfire List Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff Hi All, Since I blowed up the diff in our '68 GT6, I went out & purchased a diff from a '79 Spit. I went ahead & pulled the back off the blowed up punkin...not good inside there! I wanted to use the case from the GT6 diff with the 6 studs rather than the 4 stud Spit case. Well, not being an expert on these cars, I decided against tearing the Spit case apart. The problem is, I cannot separate the spring from the diff. I see there's some sort of pin in the center...certainly it's not holding the spring to the case? How is this done? I'm going to use the GT6 spring. Cheers, Todd Bermudez #596 Cincinnati, OH '68 GT6 RHD '66 GT6 RHD '67 GT6 LHD Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Mar 27 11:34:13 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 14:34:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff Message-ID: <20090327143413.CCP19625@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Todd asked: > I wanted to use the case from the GT6 diff with the 6 studs > rather than the 4 stud Spit case. Well, not being an > expert on these cars, I decided against tearing the Spit > case apart. You don't have to be an expert. The pumpkin comes off the back with minimal trouble and with no effect on the critical mechanicals. Remove the four u-joint flange bolts on each side with an Allen wrench and the entire side bearing with u-joint will pull out from the side. Once they are out you can undo all the bolts holding the pumpkin to the front and the pumpkin should pull off easily, subject to how stuck the gasket is, of course. The ring gear and other interesting bits are all held by the front section. Re-assembly is the reverse procedure. > I cannot separate the spring from the diff. The spring is held to the diff by the plates, themselves held down by the nuts on the studs. That's all there is. However the spring does fit into a notch in the top of the diff. It can become stuck in there due to weathering, rust, dirt, etc. A bit of "persuasion" with a BFH, maybe applied through an appropriately size wedge-link object or drift, should do the trick. -- Jim Muller From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 27 12:54:11 2009 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 12:54:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Spring Unmated Now what? Message-ID: <985089.33955.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Jim et al, The BFH did the trick...mental note, keep spring away from chrome bits on car when using BFH! Now for another few questions. I pulled the drain plug from the Spit diff. Not a ton of oil came out....surprise...it's a TRiumph. So, I might make the assumption the seals may be questionable. I am tempted to pull the rear of the Spit Diff & see what's goin' on in there. It does turn freely which is good, but perhaps an inspection is in order? Are there seals on each axle shaft? I would assume so. Lookin' at the GT6 diff(all blowed up) it would appear that there is a clip holding the bearing to the shaft. So, if I get the clip/bearing off, is there a seal under all that? Also, what about the input shaft seal? Should I replace these things whilst it's out? Are there some pitfall should I open that can-o-worms? It would appear that there is some sort of cover over the slotted nut. Is this pryed out? Or, should I leave well enough alone and put some GL4 in it & see what happens? Cheers, Todd Bermudez #596 Cincinnati, OH '68 GT6 RHD '66 GT6 RHD '67 GT6 LHD --- On Fri, 3/27/09, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: > From: jimmuller at rcn.com > Subject: Re: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff > To: Spitfires at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, March 27, 2009, 2:34 PM > Todd asked: > > I wanted to use the case from the GT6 diff with the 6 > studs > > rather than the 4 stud Spit case. Well, not > being an > > expert on these cars, I decided against tearing the > Spit > > case apart. > > You don't have to be an expert. The pumpkin comes off > the back with minimal trouble and with no effect on the > critical mechanicals. Remove the four u-joint flange > bolts on each side with an Allen wrench and the entire side > bearing with u-joint will pull out from the side. Once > they are out you can undo all the bolts holding the pumpkin > to the front and the pumpkin should pull off easily, subject > to how stuck the gasket is, of course. The ring gear > and other interesting bits are all held by the front > section. Re-assembly is the reverse procedure. > > > I cannot separate the spring from the diff. > > The spring is held to the diff by the plates, themselves > held down by the nuts on the studs. That's all there > is. However the spring does fit into a notch in the > top of the diff. It can become stuck in there due to > weathering, rust, dirt, etc. A bit of "persuasion" > with a BFH, maybe applied through an appropriately size > wedge-link object or drift, should do the trick. > -- > Jim Muller > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From doug at dougbraun.com Fri Mar 27 13:08:46 2009 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 13:08:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Spring Unmated Now what? Message-ID: <549830.61706.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The seals on the side shafts will be 10,000 times easier to replace when the diff is on the bench, compared to being in the car. So I say "do it". Also, if you remove those side shafts, you can check for any issue with the bearings and replace them if necessary. They take all the side thrust from the axles, like when you go around a corner. The seal on the pinion is more of a hassle to replace; you need to make up some sort of tool to keep the shaft from turning as you loosen the (big tight) nut. Doug --- On Fri, 3/27/09, Todd Bermudez wrote: > I pulled the drain plug from the Spit diff. Not a ton > of oil came > out....surprise...it's a TRiumph. So, I might make > the assumption the seals > may be questionable. I am tempted to pull the rear of > the Spit Diff & see > what's goin' on in there. It does turn freely which > is good, but perhaps an > inspection is in order? > > Are there seals on each axle shaft? I would assume > so. Lookin' at the GT6 > diff(all blowed up) it would appear that there is a clip > holding the bearing > to the shaft. So, if I get the clip/bearing off, is > there a seal under all > that? Also, what about the input shaft seal? > Should I replace these things > whilst it's out? Are there some pitfall should I open > that can-o-worms? It > would appear that there is some sort of cover over the > slotted nut. Is this > pryed out? > > Or, should I leave well enough alone and put some GL4 in it > & see what > happens? From cwn74 at aol.com Fri Mar 27 13:09:53 2009 From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 16:09:53 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff In-Reply-To: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003c01c9af17$fe247300$fa6d5900$@com> Of course you know the GT6 rear end is 3.27 ratio and the Spitfire is 3.89 Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Fri Mar 27 13:40:21 2009 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 15:40:21 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff In-Reply-To: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: hi Todd A few points to consider: A '68 GT6 and '79 Spit differential are similar but not identical. I don't think you can swap the guts from the Spit into the GT6 diff case as the early crownwheel carrier won't fit the late model nosecase. Even if they did match up, the swap requires special tools and precision adjustments; a job best left to those with both the tools and expertise to acomplish the task. You can still use the Spit differential in the GT6, if you choose to after reading the folowing caveats: The Spit will have had a swing spring held on by 4 studs, the GT6 will use a fixed spring held on by 6 studs. If you're going to use the fixed spring on the Spit diff case, you should plug the two unused holes in the case - use a short (about the thickness of the top of the diff case) threaded cutoff from a bolt/stud screwed in flush with the surface of the spring seat and straked/locktited so it can't keep threading itself in and drop into the works. (Not recommended to use the swing spring from the Spit as it will be too soft to hold up the heavier GT6 back end and its lower roll rate will make the already bad GT6 understeer even worse). The GT6 will have had a 3:27 ratio, the Spit will likely be a 3.89, so if you swap diffs, the engine will be revving quite a bit higher at highway speeds (about 20% faster). As a tradeoff, acceleration will be a tad livelier. There may also be some difference in the size of the stub axles and/or their bearings, but this shouldn't matter as the GT6 halfshafts should still mate up with the Spit stub axles OK and by '79 the Spit diff was about as strong as they got. Assuming you have the old diff and spring out of the GT6, the various bits of power train and suspension links removed, and have taken off the nuts/studs fastening the spring to the case, the only thing holding the spring on is dirt and/or corrosion. Apply penetrating oil and a bit of friendly (BFH) persuasion and the two should part company. good luck Scott > Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 10:37:54 -0700 > From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com > > Hi All, > > Since I blowed up the diff in our '68 GT6, I went out & purchased a diff from a '79 Spit. I went ahead & pulled the back off the blowed up punkin...not good inside there! I wanted to use the case from the GT6 diff with the 6 studs rather than the 4 stud Spit case. Well, not being an expert on these cars, I decided against tearing the Spit case apart. The problem is, I cannot separate the spring from the diff. I see there's some sort of pin in the center...certainly it's not holding the spring to the case? How is this done? I'm going to use the GT6 spring. > > Cheers, > Todd Bermudez #596 _________________________________________________________________ Reunite with the people closest to you, chat face to face with Messenger. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9650736 From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Mar 27 13:48:49 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 13:48:49 Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff In-Reply-To: <003c01c9af17$fe247300$fa6d5900$@com> References: <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <354221.39815.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090327134849.195f9c64@pop.west.cox.net> Not necessarily, the GT6 with overdrive had 3:89 ratios, at least over on this side of the pond - **************************************************************** >Of course you know the GT6 rear end is 3.27 ratio and the Spitfire is 3.89 > >Clark >Clark W. Nicholls >1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) >"Reality, it's not what you think." >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Spitfires at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > >http://www.team.net/archive > Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Mar 27 14:50:37 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 17:50:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff Message-ID: <20090327175037.CCP60519@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Scott wrote: > The GT6 will have had a 3:27 ratio, the Spit will likely be > a 3.89, so if you swap diffs, the engine will be revving > quite a bit higher at highway speeds (about 20% faster). All true enough. As a complication, IIRC, "they" put a 3.89 into those GT6's which got the OD gearbox and which were destined for North America. The rest of the world, or at least the home market, got the 3.27 diff, OD or not. So if Todd wants to dig up an OD gearbox he'd end up with the same highway revs and lower non-OD geaaring, which was the factory's intent fo "us". On the other hand, that's a big switch over and more expensive. If I was going through that much trouble and expense I'd rather have the home market's higher gearing. The GT6 doesn't need lower gearing but lower revs on the highway would be nice. In any case, the Spitfire diff is moving in the wrong direction. Not that the car will prefer to go backwards or anything. > I don't think you can swap the guts from the Spit into the > GT6 diff case as the early crownwheel carrier won't fit the > late model nosecase. Are the pumpkins interchangeable? Meaning, could he put the GT6 rear case with its 6 stud holes onto the Spitfire nose and guts? I would've thought so, but it one of the zillion of so things I've never tried to do. Of course, it would still end up with the 3.89:1 gearing. Jim Muller From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 27 15:39:45 2009 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 15:39:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff Message-ID: <468967.34750.qm@web43141.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi All, Guess I should mention, this GT6 does have an overdrive gearbox...maybe it won't make a bit of difference then? Todd --- On Fri, 3/27/09, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: > From: jimmuller at rcn.com > Subject: Re: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff > To: Spitfires at autox.team.net > Date: Friday, March 27, 2009, 5:50 PM > Scott wrote: > > The GT6 will have had a 3:27 ratio, the Spit will > likely be > > a 3.89, so if you swap diffs, the engine will be > revving > > quite a bit higher at highway speeds (about 20% > faster). > > All true enough. As a complication, IIRC, "they" put > a 3.89 into those GT6's which got the OD gearbox and which > were destined for North America. The rest of the > world, or at least the home market, got the 3.27 diff, OD or > not. So if Todd wants to dig up an OD gearbox he'd end > up with the same highway revs and lower non-OD geaaring, > which was the factory's intent fo "us". > > On the other hand, that's a big switch over and more > expensive. If I was going through that much trouble > and expense I'd rather have the home market's higher > gearing. The GT6 doesn't need lower gearing but lower > revs on the highway would be nice. In any case, the > Spitfire diff is moving in the wrong direction. Not > that the car will prefer to go backwards or anything. > > > I don't think you can swap the guts from the Spit into > the > > GT6 diff case as the early crownwheel carrier won't > fit the > > late model nosecase. > > Are the pumpkins interchangeable? Meaning, could he > put the GT6 rear case with its 6 stud holes onto the > Spitfire nose and guts? I would've thought so, but it > one of the zillion of so things I've never tried to > do. Of course, it would still end up with the 3.89:1 > gearing. > > Jim Muller > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Mar 27 18:36:36 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 21:36:36 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff In-Reply-To: <468967.34750.qm@web43141.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49CD46E4.21867.167DCE89@localhost> On 27 Mar 2009 at 15:39, Todd Bermudez wrote: > Guess I should mention, this GT6 does have an overdrive > gearbox...maybe it won't make a bit of difference then? Ah! If the gearbox and diff were original, or if both were swapped out by someone so that the diff matches the gearbox as the factory intended, then you probably had a 3.89 after all. If someone had switched to an OD gerarbox but not swapped the diff then you had European gearing. (Lord knows what your speedometer would have read though! Did the PO who did the swap change its drive gear too? Nobody knows.) In that case you will notice the revs increase on the highway, but with the new diff it will be back to what the factory wanted you to have. I was noting on my drive home today that in 4th the speed is double the tach reading (e.g. 4000rpm == 80mph, though my tires make the car a bit slower than it reads), and at those speeds the speedometer and tach needles are parallel. As far as I know I have a 3.27 diff; I've never bothered to look up the speed vs. rpm figures. Well, actually I have but I never bothered to remember them. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 28 09:04:46 2009 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 09:04:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff Message-ID: <108532.55453.qm@web43136.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Jim, To make matters more interesting, this is a right hand drive car. It has a Spit frame under it(ends were chopped off). The car, from what I'm told, was made up of a combination of RHD & LHD parts. Now what went with what is anyone's guess. I suspect the Gearbox came from the LHD car. The diff begins with FD I believe. So I put a late Spit differential in the car & it should be back to US spec as far as the speedo is concerned, but what about the speedo itself? It's in MPH so I think it's a US spec speedo? The tyres are bigger than stock so I would think it would read slow. Lots of questions, but I guess the big thing is to get the wife's car back together! I think I'm gonna fill'r up with oil & see if it leaks. The idea of pressing off the bearings and the dreaded pinion seal doesn't really excite me too much. Cheers, Todd Bermudez #596 Cincinnati, OH '68 GT6 MK1 RHD '66 GT6 MK1 RHD '67 GT6 MK1 LHD --- On Fri, 3/27/09, Jim Muller wrote: > From: Jim Muller > Subject: Re: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff > To: Spitfires at autox.team.net, jimmuller at rcn.com, "NASS Spitfire" > Date: Friday, March 27, 2009, 9:36 PM > On 27 Mar 2009 at 15:39, Todd > Bermudez wrote: > > > Guess I should mention, this GT6 does have an > overdrive > > gearbox...maybe it won't make a bit of difference > then? > > Ah! If the gearbox and diff were original, or if both > were swapped > out by someone so that the diff matches the gearbox as the > factory > intended, then you probably had a 3.89 after all. > > If someone had switched to an OD gerarbox but not swapped > the diff > then you had European gearing. (Lord knows what your > speedometer > would have read though! Did the PO who did the swap > change its drive > gear too? Nobody knows.) In that case you will > notice the revs > increase on the highway, but with the new diff it will be > back to > what the factory wanted you to have. > > I was noting on my drive home today that in 4th the speed > is double > the tach reading (e.g. 4000rpm == 80mph, though my tires > make the car > a bit slower than it reads), and at those speeds the > speedometer and > tach needles are parallel. As far as I know I have a > 3.27 diff; I've > never bothered to look up the speed vs. rpm figures. > Well, actually > I have but I never bothered to remember them. > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Mar 28 14:39:11 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 17:39:11 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Separating spring from Diff In-Reply-To: <108532.55453.qm@web43136.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49CE60BF.4060.1DDC6AB@localhost> On 28 Mar 2009 at 9:04, Todd Bermudez wrote: > To make matters more interesting, this is a right hand drive car. You sure have an interesting collection of cars, three Mk I's, two of which are RHD. On which side of the Pond do you live, for all love? And how is it that one is considered a '66? I thought they started as '67 models, at least in the US. And why would someone chop up a Spitfire frame to build an ambidextrous (sort of) GT6? Most people chop up a GT6 to build a Spitfire 6. > I suspect the Gearbox came from the LHD car. Shouldn't make any difference. Unless you have trouble shifting with your left hand. > So I put a late Spit differential in the car & it should be back to > US spec as far as the speedo is concerned Perhaps the significant point is that it takes it back to (or simply leaves it at) US-intended gearing, which of course determines how your engine revs for any given speed. That you have OD means you can really take either diff. > but what about the speedo itself? It's in MPH so I think it's a > US spec speedo? The last time I checked, which was never, the Imperial Mile was about the same as a US mile, though I could be wrong. Nah, any difference wouldn't be in the speedometer but in the drive gear at the gearbox, I suspect. If your tires aren't close to original your speedometer won't read accurately anyway, and in any case, the different speedometer drives should be obtainable. I confess I've never had reason to worry about it. > The tyres are bigger than stock so I would think it would read > slow. Yes. The question is, how much. I've got 175/70x13 on my GT6 and my speedometer reads maybe 3 to 4 mph slow at an indicated 70, checked once by GPS. On the other hand, on such a small car they look purposeful. They look so enormously aggressive that kids have asked me if I had 15" wheels. I guess their only point of reference was a 'Stang or something similar. (Sharon, look. He spells tyres with a y. Which side of which ocean is he coming from?) >...the big thing is to get the wife's car back together! Oooh, the ultimate honey-dew task! Lucky you! I spent much of the day shovelling compost for Sharon's garden. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+