From s1500 at comcast.net Mon Jun 1 12:41:04 2009 From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500) Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 13:41:04 -0500 Subject: [Spits] screw-on battery terminals? Message-ID: <4A2420C0.5090404@comcast.net> My Spit's battery finally bit the dust yesterday. After an attempted charging, it's not going to turn the starter motor over. I double checked the battery terminals, etc. My question is this: How hard is it to use those newer type screw-on battery terminal posts with a Spit? Finding the positive cable replacement should be easy(it's a small cable), but I have found zero luck in finding a battery cable that also branches out to the ground so it ground out to the tranny bellhousing. Unless there's some separate cable I can mount on the screw terminal thing to use that for ground. If that's a no-no, please tell me. I've realized that these old fashioned battery clamps are more of a hassle than anything. Also, would this get in the way of the factory standard battery hold-down clamp? From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jun 1 12:57:03 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 11:57:03 -0700 Subject: [Spits] screw-on battery terminals? In-Reply-To: <4A2420C0.5090404@comcast.net> References: <4A2420C0.5090404@comcast.net> Message-ID: <851C23E8540B45F18297C5A9374D0B51@joepentiumnew> The only thing that I would be concerned with is getting a battery with the proper height to clear the recess of the battery box. The last thing you want to do is cause contact that would short out the battery. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1500 Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 11:41 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] screw-on battery terminals? My Spit's battery finally bit the dust yesterday. After an attempted charging, it's not going to turn the starter motor over. I double checked the battery terminals, etc. My question is this: How hard is it to use those newer type screw-on battery terminal posts with a Spit? Finding the positive cable replacement should be easy(it's a small cable), but I have found zero luck in finding a battery cable that also branches out to the ground so it ground out to the tranny bellhousing. Unless there's some separate cable I can mount on the screw terminal thing to use that for ground. If that's a no-no, please tell me. I've realized that these old fashioned battery clamps are more of a hassle than anything. Also, would this get in the way of the factory standard battery hold-down clamp? Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Jun 1 15:18:41 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 22:18:41 +0100 Subject: [Spits] The Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive Stag is effectively READY!!! Message-ID: <579A2DE3824E4A8383E49EBE280708CF@John> There's an old saying, "the impossible we can do now - miracles take a little longer. If you haven't been following developments over the last week or so - or didn't hear what happened, it may come as a surprise to know that a great deal has taken place on both sides of the 'big pond' - but especially in the States. And the States side of things *definitely* wasn't planned! A miracle has truly been worked by the ISOA team under Joe Pawlak following a disastrous gearbox failure on 24th May. Thanks in no small measure to many enthusiasts across the North American continent - and especially to those in the corridors of power at Victoria British who responded to an urgent need in incredible style. My very sincere and heartfelt thanks to everyone who truly made everything a veritable miracle. This is a manifestation of true teamwork, the like of which I have never previously seen or known. The website is updated with pix of the Unveiling Ceremony in Hampshire, Illinois on Sunday afternoon. Go have a look and see what ISOA has managed to achieve in 66 weekends of unmitigating slog - and probably a good many weekday nights as well. You guys are AMAZING! Also, the website now has a new page for a *different* type of Memorabilia and Regalia. Have a look at that too! John Macartney Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From fpspitfire at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 06:41:32 2009 From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 12:41:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spits] Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit In-Reply-To: <01f801c9e214$8ef3dea0$acdb9be0$@net> Message-ID: <396905776.21121244032892761.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> It probably isn't a metal on metal contact.B Most spherical bearings have a liner of some sort.B aaron ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Parrott" To: spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, June 1, 2009 1:23:47 AM GMT +08:00 Beijing / Chongqing / Hong Kong / Urumqi Subject: [Spits] Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit I purchased the Caterham type trunnionless front suspension replacement kit (along with the neat-looking Caterham front hub and stub) from CanleyClassic in the UK, and I'm about to begin the installation into my SpitSix project car. B Here's the URL for a photo. http://www.canleyclassics.com/image.pl?file=../data/uploadedpics/catkit1.jpg Anyway, there doesn't appear to be anyway to lubricate the lower "ball and socket." Metal on metal bearings don't seem right. B Is lubrication needed? And if so, how and what do I lubricate it with? Thanks. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jun 3 10:01:29 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 12:01:29 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Help with steering part, dimensions needed Message-ID: <380-2200963316129301@M2W018.mail2web.com> Listers, I am in a bit of a quandary. In my quest to restore my 1970 GT6+ to its almost showroom/as it left the dealer condition for Triumphest/VTR, I need a bit of assistance. I have managed to find an original steering wheel and mounting boss/hub to replace the Lecarra for the show (apparently the hub/boss has no separate part number, but is part of 160038 steering wheel and pad assy for those so inclined) but it has somehow lost a crucial piece. The part I am referring to is a small, pressed on metal flanged ring, pressed onto the central casting of the hub that the horn button mounts into. This flanged piece secures the mounting pad to the assy when you press the pad over the flange. Now, I can make a new flanged piece, but I need the dimension from the top edge of the casting it's pressed on to, to the top edge of the flange as installed on the hub. Also the outer diameter of the flange itself. If anybody has a hub/boss lying around, or a column without the pad and horn button mounted, that could take a couple of measurements for me I would really appreciate it  any pre 76 Spitfire/GT6 or TR6 should be the same as far as this part is concerned  Thanks - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 10:58:05 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 12:58:05 -0400 Subject: [Spits] FW: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit Message-ID: <00cc01c9e46c$773a4c40$65aee4c0$@net> Apparently, there is a liner inside of the spherical bearing. A type of self-lubricating Teflon. I may also seal the top of the ball joint with some type of rubber boot to keep sand and dirt from settling into the upper "cup". Here's a description of the patent. http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5011738/description.html From: Canley Classics [mailto:info at canleyclassics.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 8:12 AM To: parrotthead01 at comcast.net Subject: Re: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit The bearing surface is PTFE. Regards ----- Original Message ----- From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net To: Canley Classics Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 1:21 PM Subject: Re: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit I there Teflon in there as a bearing surface? Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry _____ From: "Canley Classics" Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:21:12 +0100 To: Daniel Parrott Subject: Re: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit No lubrication required. Regards ----- Original Message ----- From: Daniel Parrott To: info at canleyclassics.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 6:16 PM Subject: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit http://www.canleyclassics.com/image.pl?file=../data/uploadedpics/catkit1.jpg I purchased this suspension kit a couple of months ago and am about to start the installation. I do have a question. Does the lower ball joint require lubrication and if so, how do I do it? Thanks. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 11:15:51 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:15:51 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Triumph Trans America Drive, Stand ... Part 1 Message-ID: <4A26AFC7.5030409@tscusa.org> All, I am not sure it the original email was too long because I have not seen it in the main 4 archives. So I split it in two parts .... By now many of you have been following our latest trials and tribulations of the STTAG, a.k.a. Uncle Jack. and the Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009. Well a lot has transpired since the transmission exploded Sunday 24 May 2009. Replacement transmission was generously sourced by Duncan Wood of Red River Triumphs, the rebuild kits supplied by John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics, the OD setup supplied by myself., shipping by Steve Yott of ISOA. Upon timely arrival of all the components at the ISOA rebuilding destination, a quick inspection showed a mouse hole in the side of the OD shipping box - yep, the replacement main shaft had vanished from the box!!! Through another showing of extreme support for this cause and generosity, a new J type OD main shaft, pump cam, clips and such were sourced at Victoria British and provided free of charge by Susan Berkowitz of Victoria British, packed up and shipped FedEx Saturday delivery. By now we have all seen it miracles the ISOA STTAG team will work with this new pile of parts, the results are spectacular! (see part 2) -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Coordinator Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield, and the occasional smell of manure! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 11:17:22 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:17:22 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Triumph Trans America Drive, Part 2 ... and be counted for Uncle Jack!! Message-ID: <4A26B022.6030501@tscusa.org> part 2 So ... Now is the time to stand up and be counted. So, are you a Friend of Triumph , Triumph enthusiast, or one of the believers in this Trans American Charity Drive and cause, waiting to see Uncle Jack hit the highway in Florida and finish in San Luis Obispo? Want to prove the nay sayers WRONG!!! The way points and stopovers of this route are pretty much defined, one or two may be added. However the routes in between each host club are wide open and up to the host clubs to decide for John. These clubs should be talking with each neighbor host club for meeting with John at the midpoint between their club and the departing host club, and caravaning with John to the midpoint toward the next host club. One car or two hundred, bring them all to meet John from the previous club and see him off to the next club. Contact your Governor, local media and let them know what this drive is all about. I know times are tough for all of us, but this drive needs ALL of our help to arrive safely at Triumphest / NATC 2009 in San Luis Obispo. John Macartney has invested a huge amount of his own personal funds to make this drive and provide necessary parts for the STTAG. ISOA has invested a bunch of time and money into this restoration taking the full restoration on themselves. ISOA for one could sure use your support. Send them a few bucks and and tell them "thank you for your hard work over the past 14 months!" http://www.snic-braaapp.org/iapply.pdf Please become informed about the host clubs along John's route, talk to John at one of the stop overs and put some cash in his hand and say "Thank you John Macartney for promoting awareness for this terrible affliction - PTSD" and visit http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ and stay updated with regular emails - sign up at http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/mailman/listinfo/triumphtrans-americainfo_triumphtransamerica.org.uk Caravan along with the STTAG, pick up a meal or a tank of gas for John, or send in a charitable donation of your own directly to one of the selected PTSD / Trauma charities or organizations. Get your local club involved in identifying your own local PTSD charity and aid organizations, and VA hospitals. DO IT!! See you in Florida, all along the routes, and San Luis Obispo for Triumphest / NATC 2009!! -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Coordinator Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield, and the occasional smell of manure! From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jun 3 12:01:54 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 14:01:54 EDT Subject: [Spits] Test Message-ID: Hey Guys, Is anyone out there? I have been in the dark with no posts since 5/26. I miss you guys. Is it my AOL? Darrell **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.d oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 12:39:13 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 12:39:13 -0600 Subject: [Spits] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] Message-ID: <4A26C351.8000408@tscusa.org> -------- Original Message -------- Glenn, Can you see if we can get a club to donate a complete tool kit for the car. This would be tools suitable for maintenance of a british car. fairly compact and has the bits needed to facilitate any repairs. I would also like to have a carb synchronizer and a mixture adjustment tool added to the mix. I would like this before the trip to Florida. -- Joe Pawlak VI DataPrint Burlington Illinois 847/683-9683 joe at vidataprint.com Greetings All Now the the TTA STTAG is in perfect form again and looking absolutely marvelous, we are in need of a suitable toolkit for the boot. If any clubs wish to support this drive by assembling a quality tool kit, Please contact me directly 303-665-6040 mailbox #5 stagbytriumph at tscusa.org -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Coordinator The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Wed Jun 3 12:40:01 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 13:40:01 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We're still here. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO NASS #627 http://web.me.com/bobberger/Site/Photos/Photos.html On Jun 3, 2009, at 1:01 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > Is anyone out there? I have been in the dark with no posts since > 5/26. I > miss you guys. Is it my AOL? > Darrell > > **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.d > oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jun 3 13:54:13 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 15:54:13 EDT Subject: [Spits] Test Message-ID: In a message dated 6/3/2009 3:43:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, forzion at maine.rr.com writes: May also that be many listers are out enjoying the fruit of their labors over the winter! It's crusing time! Thanks Guys, I have received several responses from all three lists so evidently I can post to the lists but I am not receiving any list posts, just off list posts. Does anyone out there have AOL with normal List function? None of the response so far are AOL customers that I can tell. My spam folder was blocking a few List posts before this total crash. Nothing going in there now. Darrell Going to be cruising in the TR3B in a few short weeks @ the TRA National Meeting in Maryland! **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.d oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 14:02:58 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 14:02:58 -0600 Subject: [Spits] [TR] [6pack] Test In-Reply-To: <56305DF37379419B8157D2800C8AA820@marcydesk> References: <56305DF37379419B8157D2800C8AA820@marcydesk> Message-ID: <4A26D6F2.8070809@tscusa.org> Gents, My posts do not seem to be getting through to the Triumph and TR8 list, but are getting posted on the 6 pack and Spits. Same server and list software, same common registration details and options, but different posting results. Not quite sure what is up with that. Mark? Glenn Mitch wrote: > Still here. I think many listers post directly on the 6Pack forum > lately. That may account for the light traffic. The forum allows you > to post pics as well. > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; > > Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:01 PM > Subject: [6pack] Test > > >> Hey Guys, >> Is anyone out there? I have been in the dark with no posts since >> 5/26. I >> miss you guys. Is it my AOL? >> Darrell >> > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jun 3 14:10:19 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:10:19 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Help with steering part, dimensions needed (solved thanks) Message-ID: <380-22009633201019312@M2W024.mail2web.com> Thanks guys/gals Part made, problem solved - now to the next challenge, installing the vent window seals! Barry Schwartz San DIego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From doug at dougbraun.com Wed Jun 3 16:58:41 2009 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 15:58:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] FW: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit Message-ID: <386393.49529.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does the ball joint have a rubber boot that is not shown in the photo? I hope so. Otherwise water and dirt would get in the socket and stay here! Doug Braun '72 Spit --- On Wed, 6/3/09, Daniel Parrott wrote: > Subject: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit > > > > http://www.canleyclassics.com/image.pl?file=../data/uploadedpics/catkit1.jpg From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 17:43:42 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 19:43:42 -0400 Subject: [Spits] FW: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit In-Reply-To: <386393.49529.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <386393.49529.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00f601c9e4a5$20b52910$621f7b30$@net> No, it didn't come with a rubber boot. I'm thinking of making one by loading the lowest part with some silicon sealant to cover the ball, and then to dip the whole assembly in some of that tool handle dip to protect the silicon. I could the trim away the unnecessary tool handle dip to protect the sealant from getting contaminated from dirt and water. I'll let everyone know how it works out. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" -----Original Message----- From: Doug Braun [mailto:doug at dougbraun.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 6:59 PM To: Daniel Parrott Cc: Spitfire list Subject: Re: [Spits] FW: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit Does the ball joint have a rubber boot that is not shown in the photo? I hope so. Otherwise water and dirt would get in the socket and stay here! Doug Braun '72 Spit --- On Wed, 6/3/09, Daniel Parrott wrote: > Subject: Caterham type trunnionless front suspension kit > > > > http://www.canleyclassics.com/image.pl?file=../data/uploadedpics/catkit1.jpg From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Jun 9 14:18:02 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 21:18:02 +0100 Subject: [Spits] Sony DCR-SR33 Handycam References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74012929BE@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <3AFE9AEC0EE147249732762F2B9433FA@John> Can anyone provide feedback on this camera (or similar model) with regard to windnoise? Planning on mounting it in the TTACD Stag on a special bracket at the base of the windshield. Reason: anticipate good forward view with minimal windnoise. Is this a vain hope? Jonmac From s1500 at comcast.net Wed Jun 10 19:50:53 2009 From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:50:53 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Sony DCR-SR33 Handycam Message-ID: <4A3062FD.8020608@comcast.net> What I would do, if there's a mic jack is to plug a mic(or a set of headphones in it) and point the mic elsewhere, maybe towards the glove box. I haven't done this before, but it seems with all home camcorders, the mic was designed to pick up as much wind and camera shake noises as possible. Reroute the audio away from the wind, and maybe it will help. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Jun 11 16:59:36 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 18:59:36 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Yet another puzzling (GT6) cooling system question Message-ID: <380-220096411225936930@M2W038.mail2web.com> Just to get the brain going, I offer up the following... In replacing all the coolant hoses on the GT6+ in preparation for Triumphest this year, I have developed a question as to why the cooling system was designed the way it was. Not that I am going to change anything, just a lingering question  and no real answer at least that I can see. The system basically takes the radiator water from the lower radiator hose, on the right side of the lower radiator tank into the pump, through the block in a conventional manner, but this is where it is unique, and to me, somewhat puzzling. One really has to look at the system closely to see what I am talking about here. In the stock system, AFTER the water leaves the thermostat and enters the thermostat housing it has two choices, both of which go to the same place, and therein lies the quandary as I see it. One choice for the water is to exit via the thermostat, then enter the thermostat housing, exiting via the left larger opening, into the top radiator hose, then into the upper tank on the almost left side of the radiator (just off of center) . Nothing special there. The other path is again, exit the thermostat into the thermostat housing, then off to the right into a smaller, approx 3/4 inch hose, (which is also called a top hose) which also enters the upper tank via the filler neck, just below the radiator cap, about two inches to the right of where the top hose enters. Essentially the same place as far as the system is concerned, the upper tank that the upper hose exit into. Does anybody have a decent explanation as to why anybody would design the system this way? I can see no real reason for this bypass hose. It doesnt bypass anything. It is basically a smaller upper radiator hose. Both ends start and end at basically the same place in the system. Any good reasons that I am missing as to why it was done that way, other than to add the cost of another hose??? Remember, look at an actual system to see what I am talking about  Youll see that the upper hose, and the bypass hose are just parallel hoses going to and from the same place! Just an observation, obviously too much time on my hands and just wondering what is going on here that I am missing!! As a side note, the Vitesse, which uses the same engine, does NOT have this smaller top hoseHummmm Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Jun 14 16:20:43 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 18:20:43 EDT Subject: [Spits] Test Message-ID: Just checking status. Please delete. Darrell **************Choose the home loan that saves you the most $$$. Agents available at ditech.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221374924x1201371434/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fclk.atdmt.com%2FDEG%2Fgo%2F153724534%2Fdirect%2F0 1%2F) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Jun 20 15:58:51 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 15:58:51 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive kickoff! Message-ID: <4A3D5B9B.5080107@tscusa.org> It's TIME for the Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive kickoff! Hello All, The TTA drive kicks off this coming Saturday 27 June 2009 at GrassRoots Motorsports offices in Holly Hill Florida, 9-11 am. Check for directions at [classicmotorsports.net ] I will be there to make sure Joe Pawlak and the STTAG transport crew lets go of the keys ... Also, keep up-to-date on the destinations and progress for the drive on the TTA web site [triumphtransamerica.org.uk ] or sign up for the email list at [triumphtransamerica.org.uk ] for daily updates. I'll be setting up a Twitter link soon so you can get on the spot updates from folks along the route. Look for notices for video links on You-Tube. If you take a video of John and the STTAG in your local area, please upload the video and or photo shoot to You-Tube, and title the video with "TTA 2009 Charity Drive" followed by your town/City/club name & Date. Something like - "TTA 2009 Charity Drive - Climbs Pikes Peak w/ Colorado Northern British Car Club 22 Aug 2009" Remember to add a video of each hand off between your clubs with your club banners displayed! (if anyone on the Triumph list could let me know they are seeing this, I would appreciate your response. Thanks! Cheers! Glenn Merrell TTA North American Coordinator From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com Tue Jun 30 02:24:01 2009 From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 01:24:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Spits] Swing Spring Message-ID: <79323.27782.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I am looking at replacing my Mk3 Spitfire spring with a later swing spring. I have the spring with the cage fitted with new pad and pivot bolt. I have fitted a later anti-roll bar. After I built up the spring I tried a stud in the cage. The stud does not seem very long in that there doesn't seem to be a lot of thread going into the top of the diff. Does anybody know if the Mk3 studs are the same length as the MK4 How much of the stud thread should be screwed into the diff? Thanks From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Jun 30 03:22:59 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 05:22:59 -0400 Subject: [Spits] Swing Spring References: <79323.27782.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000801c9f964$5cb79230$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> No, they are not the same. Don't know the exact differences in length. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Cherington" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 4:24 AM Subject: [Spits] Swing Spring >I am looking at replacing my Mk3 Spitfire spring with a later swing spring. >I > have the spring with the cage fitted with new pad and pivot bolt. I have > fitted a later anti-roll bar. After I built up the spring I tried a stud > in > the cage. The stud does not seem very long in that there doesn't seem to > be a > lot of thread going into the top of the diff. Does anybody know if the Mk3 > studs are the same length as the MK4 How much of the stud thread should be > screwed into the diff? Thanks From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jun 30 10:11:26 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 09:11:26 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Swing Spring In-Reply-To: <000801c9f964$5cb79230$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> References: <79323.27782.qm@web34303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000801c9f964$5cb79230$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: Alex, Unless you are replacing the axles with longer ones from a later MkIV or 1500 as well, I think you are going to be disappointed with your results. Triumph originally put the swing-spring in with the shorter axles but must have found that it did not resolve the problems and then went to the longer axles. That is why the later cars have so much negative camber and the resulting spring sag after a while. You can resolve the wheel tuck problem using your original fixed spring by adding one of my camber compensators and retain the normal stance of the car. It also will not have the sort of body roll that you will experience with the swing-spring. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nolan Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 2:23 AM To: Alex Cherington; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Swing Spring No, they are not the same. Don't know the exact differences in length. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Cherington" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 4:24 AM Subject: [Spits] Swing Spring >I am looking at replacing my Mk3 Spitfire spring with a later swing spring. >I > have the spring with the cage fitted with new pad and pivot bolt. I have > fitted a later anti-roll bar. After I built up the spring I tried a stud > in > the cage. The stud does not seem very long in that there doesn't seem to > be a > lot of thread going into the top of the diff. Does anybody know if the Mk3 > studs are the same length as the MK4 How much of the stud thread should be > screwed into the diff? Thanks Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From andrew.lindeman at gmail.com Tue Jun 30 15:27:19 2009 From: andrew.lindeman at gmail.com (Andrew Lindeman) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 15:27:19 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion Message-ID: <2cc65d5a0906301427r4385bb8eq12773ced865ac62b@mail.gmail.com> I recently replaced a broken generator with a Bosch alternator on my 1970 Mk. 3. I followed the instructions on the VTR site about which wires to tie together to eliminate the old voltage regulator, and have the alternator itself installed and wired up. The problem I'm having, is that the alternator is not getting the signal to turn on. I pulled two wires off the back of the generator, a small brown/green wire, and a large brown/yellow wire. I have the large wire attached to the battery positive lug on the alternator, and the brown/green wire connected to the field positive. If I jump the brown/green wire to battery positive, the circuit starts charging. When I take a look at the voltage coming off the brown/green wire, I only get about two volts. Does anyone know what this voltage *should* be? My multimeter tells me that brown/green wire went to the old voltage regulator. According to the VTR site, I tie together the small brown/green and small brown/yellow wires from the voltage regulator box, which is done. Does anyone know where that small brown/yellow wire goes from the voltage regulator circuit? I do not have a wiring diagram. Andy L. From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jun 30 15:58:50 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 14:58:50 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion In-Reply-To: <2cc65d5a0906301427r4385bb8eq12773ced865ac62b@mail.gmail.com> References: <2cc65d5a0906301427r4385bb8eq12773ced865ac62b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <6E252FEA10954B98BD96256668061730@joepentiumnew> Andrew, Here are the things I did to convert from Generator to alternator. 1. Get yourself a 3 prong plug for the alternator. 2. The top one with the Brown/Yellow wire needs to be connected to the Brown/Yellow wire removed from the "D" terminal of the voltage regulator. 3. The heavy Brown wire in the middle terminal of the connector and the lighter brown wire on the lower terminal of the connector both go to the starter solenoid connector that is also attached to the battery positive terminal (I am assuming that you have already converted to negative ground). 4. The Brown wire that is connected from the Ignition switch to the "B" terminal of the regulator is connected to the same terminal of the starter solenoid as the two wires in step 2 above. That should get the thing to work properly. Let me know if you have any further problems. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 2:27 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion I recently replaced a broken generator with a Bosch alternator on my 1970 Mk. 3. I followed the instructions on the VTR site about which wires to tie together to eliminate the old voltage regulator, and have the alternator itself installed and wired up. The problem I'm having, is that the alternator is not getting the signal to turn on. I pulled two wires off the back of the generator, a small brown/green wire, and a large brown/yellow wire. I have the large wire attached to the battery positive lug on the alternator, and the brown/green wire connected to the field positive. If I jump the brown/green wire to battery positive, the circuit starts charging. When I take a look at the voltage coming off the brown/green wire, I only get about two volts. Does anyone know what this voltage *should* be? My multimeter tells me that brown/green wire went to the old voltage regulator. According to the VTR site, I tie together the small brown/green and small brown/yellow wires from the voltage regulator box, which is done. Does anyone know where that small brown/yellow wire goes from the voltage regulator circuit? I do not have a wiring diagram. Andy L. Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jun 30 16:03:08 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 15:03:08 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion In-Reply-To: <2cc65d5a0906301427r4385bb8eq12773ced865ac62b@mail.gmail.com> References: <2cc65d5a0906301427r4385bb8eq12773ced865ac62b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: One more thing, On my car, the plug does have the Indicator circuit on a Brown/Green wire which is tied to the Brn/yellow wire that routes to the Indicator lamp circuit. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 2:27 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Questions about an alternator conversion I recently replaced a broken generator with a Bosch alternator on my 1970 Mk. 3. I followed the instructions on the VTR site about which wires to tie together to eliminate the old voltage regulator, and have the alternator itself installed and wired up. The problem I'm having, is that the alternator is not getting the signal to turn on. I pulled two wires off the back of the generator, a small brown/green wire, and a large brown/yellow wire. I have the large wire attached to the battery positive lug on the alternator, and the brown/green wire connected to the field positive. If I jump the brown/green wire to battery positive, the circuit starts charging. When I take a look at the voltage coming off the brown/green wire, I only get about two volts. Does anyone know what this voltage *should* be? My multimeter tells me that brown/green wire went to the old voltage regulator. According to the VTR site, I tie together the small brown/green and small brown/yellow wires from the voltage regulator box, which is done. Does anyone know where that small brown/yellow wire goes from the voltage regulator circuit? I do not have a wiring diagram. Andy L. Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive