From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Feb 8 12:53:25 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 19:53:25 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Triumph Trans-America - Latest news from the UK Message-ID: <793F136154FC45EC91376105FCDD84E8@Bevan> Hi, Everyone This is just to let you all know there have been recent updates to the event website at www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk that hopefully a goodly number of you will find interesting? To start with, 'Stagmeister' Joe Pawlak and his loyal band of smashed knucklers at Illinois Sports Owners Association have made real progress with the car. The front and rear suspension is in place, the body is fully painted and the engine rebuild is well underway. If you haven't seen the website recently, there are some new pix so you can see what's going on. Additionally, I'm now delighted to be able to confirm the route details, dates and venues (where known and confirmed) are now on the website as well. Click on the route on the site sidebar and apart from the latest map, you'll be able to see where "uncle jack" and I will be at any time or date. There are still a number of things to firm up regarding events but the bare bones are now in place. We had a major disappointment a few weeks ago when the US charity we'd hoped to work with, decided for reasons we're still not too sure about - to withdraw from the TTACD. The search is now on to identify and recruit a fully accredited and registered US 501c3 non-profit to work with us. Hopefully, we'll be able to reveal all when that sanction is gained. >From now onwards, the next stages of the event are to identify which clubs close to the route want to join in on the Drive itself. Who wants to join a caravan and who doesn't - where each caravan will start and finish etc etc. I'll also soon be opening the doors for 'caravanners' to book their rallyboard or a seat in "uncle jack" as he makes his noble (and noisy) progress across Canada and the U.S. Four months to go now = and counting Jonmac From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Mon Feb 9 12:49:35 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (parrotthead01 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 19:49:35 +0000 Subject: [Spits] Paint Quantity Message-ID: <916871391-1234208936-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-430680954-@bxe1019.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Does anyone have experience with the quantity of paint needed for a full inside and outside paint job for 1978 Spit? How many quarts are needed? Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Feb 11 15:27:17 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:27:17 Subject: [Spits] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> I won an ebay auction for a heavy metal item (4 Kilos about 9 lbs) but the post there has quoted the sender about 75 GBP (around $108). That seems awfully high to me - What is the preferred method for sending something of this nature from England to the United States (Southern California) Surely it should cost less than that to send this item - I had a Quaife sent, weighing probably about the same or possibly even a bit more, and it didn't cost any where near that much. And it arrived only a couple of days after I ordered it, so it wasn't on the slow boat - - granted, it was probably around 10 or more year ago, but things haven't gone up that much--have they?? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Wed Feb 11 17:12:50 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:12:50 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <004801c98ca6$a4b7d2a0$ee2777e0$@net> I just received a set of Minilite rims just last month, weighing 50 pounds, all the way from England. Shipping was $102.00. Took a week via DHL. -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barry Schwartz Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 3:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - I won an ebay auction for a heavy metal item (4 Kilos about 9 lbs) but the post there has quoted the sender about 75 GBP (around $108). That seems awfully high to me - What is the preferred method for sending something of this nature from England to the United States (Southern California) Surely it should cost less than that to send this item - I had a Quaife sent, weighing probably about the same or possibly even a bit more, and it didn't cost any where near that much. And it arrived only a couple of days after I ordered it, so it wasn't on the slow boat - - granted, it was probably around 10 or more year ago, but things haven't gone up that much--have they?? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Feb 11 17:33:52 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 17:33:52 -0700 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: To look at from the other end, the post office no longer sends items overseas at a surface rate that weigh over 4 pounds. Not even to Canada! Whatever weighs 4 lbs plus has to go by Priority Mail at a cost of approximately $50 for 9 pounds going to Great Britain. Their postal rates are higher, I believe, so your package is not out of line.... Regards, Bill On Feb 11, 2009, at 3:27 PM, Barry Schwartz wrote: > I won an ebay auction for a heavy metal item (4 Kilos about 9 lbs) > but the > post there has quoted the sender about 75 GBP (around $108). That > seems > awfully high to me - What is the preferred method for sending > something of > this nature from England to the United States (Southern California) > ...things haven't gone up that much--have they?? > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa, CA (San Diego) > _ From rbgosling at googlemail.com Thu Feb 12 02:19:06 2009 From: rbgosling at googlemail.com (Richard Gosling) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:19:06 +0000 Subject: [Spits] [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - In-Reply-To: References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <9f2527520902120119x5b9df13bh6e5e1657f7d089e6@mail.gmail.com> I've found www.parcels2go.co.uk to be as cheap as anywhere. They generally subcontract the actual shipping to the likes of DHL and others, but can be a bit cheaper than going to DHL directly. Richard From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Feb 12 04:02:42 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:02:42 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <71C3AFEF323F4236953189220A5938D3@Bevan> In no way would I seek to justify high shipping charges out of the UK on anything - and yes, sending heavy items by mail is asking for a price like a defence budget. In my experience, asking an ebay seller to obtain a quote from someone like www.parcels2go.co.uk would be sensible. Over the last year, I shipped lots of stuff from the UK to Chicago for the Triumph Trans-America Stag and those rates have been surprisingly low. As an example, we've just shipped a complete exhaust system direct from the supplier for about $75 US. Stag exhausts are not noted for their compactness or light weight or small cube - all of which go into the cost equation. As for rates via the mail (the route many ebay sellers use) European postage rates are fixed collectively by the National Mail Organisations of member states of the EU - and not by the British post office for parcels leaving the UK, so the inefficiencies of ourselves and others all get costed in. One last thing to consider is the British pound has until recently been worth around US$1.95 though the rate is now around US$1.45. It all adds up to what looks like a bad deal for the buyer and it usually is. Moral? As far as Europe is concerned, never think that prices *ought* to be in the same ballpark as Canada or the US. Sadly, they rarely are. Get your seller to shop around on your behalf - if they're prepared to. Jonmac From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Feb 12 05:06:22 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 05:06:22 Subject: [Spits] Shipping a "heavy" item from England Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090212050622.19876a32@pop.west.cox.net> Thanks guys Looks like it is quite expensive, but one quote from www.parcels2go.co.uk (Thanks John) was a bit less - we'll see if he can send it that way Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Feb 12 17:55:06 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 19:55:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Spits] Fw: [Morris] Fw: Motorhead 101 - Unique Metal Shop Group Use Opportunity Message-ID: <14808083.1234486507231.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FABRICATORS o ENGINEERS o METAL ARTISTS o ADVANCED HOBBYISTS IN THE SAN FRANCISCO/SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA BAY AREA o Not enough room at home to build that special project? o Got the savvy and experience but not the proper tools? INTRODUCING : THE METAL SHOP The South Bay Do-It-Yourself Metal shop A unique new way to do projects that require more than a "home shop" could ever provide in a reasonable time share, club-like atmosphere in the South Bay. Easy freeway access . This is a fully equipped heated metalworking shop space that artists, and metalworking enthusiasts can utilize on a monthly basis with 24 hour, 7 day per week access. OPEN HOUSE INVITATION Saturday, February 14th o 10:00AM - 3:00PM Sunday, February 15th o 10:00AM - 3:00PM Come by and see the shop space, and the tools - Refreshments will be served Meet the people you could be working with. The Metal Shop 184B Morris Lane, Campbell, CA 95008 408-395-3783 evenings ask for Bob www.themetalshop.org We are ready to start operation and accept monthly memberships. o What tools are provided in the shop? The shop has a Bridgeport Milling machine with digital readout, 16"x40" metal lathe, machine tooling and measuring tools, drill presses, TIG welding. MIG welding, Oxyacetylene, compressed air, hand and power tools, and moreb&. o Can I use "The Metalshop" anytime? Yes, 24 hours a day 7 days a week during your paid up month. o How many people will use the shop and what does it cost to sign up? The shop is being offered to the first 10 members, each paying $250 per month. Rent for each month will be due on the last Saturday of the previous month. For users that consume excessive amounts of electricity, and consumables like welding gas there will be an additional charge. o About Bob, The shop Director: Bob Seinfeld has previously taught metalworking and welding for more than thirty years. Additional skill sets involve building electric cars for the highway, and mentoring high school robotics teams that participate in the US FIRST Robotics program. DON'T MISS OUT ON THIS UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY - CHECK IT OUT Look at the web site www.themetalshop.org RSVP to joyce at joycesteinfeld.com or 408-395-3783 From doug at dougbraun.com Fri Feb 13 19:45:07 2009 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:45:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] test Message-ID: <905553.7061.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just checking that the list (and my email service) are OK... Doug From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Feb 13 21:06:10 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 23:06:10 -0500 Subject: [Spits] test In-Reply-To: <905553.7061.qm@web601.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4995FCE2.12562.20B2C82A@localhost> On 13 Feb 2009 at 18:45, Doug Braun wrote: > Just checking that the list (and my email service) are OK... Now try the lights. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From RTGetzinger at scif.com Sun Feb 15 17:11:43 2009 From: RTGetzinger at scif.com (Rob T. Getzinger) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 16:11:43 -0800 Subject: [Spits] Upper wishbone bush install References: <4995FCE2.12562.20B2C82A@localhost> Message-ID: <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D807AEF7A9@njem01.scif.com> There is always at least one bolt that rust solid into the front suspension bushings. I had to cut mine out after trying everything else. I tried using a vise to push in a new bushing and it bulged and then wouldn't budge in further. I tried using grease and still only slight movement with a bulge in the rubber keeping it from going in further. What is the method to install stock busings back into the upper wishbone? Thanks, Rob ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ This e-mail message from State Compensation Insurance Fund and all attachments transmitted with it may be privileged or confidential and protected from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, copying, or taking any action based on it is strictly prohibited and may have legal consequences. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender by reply e-mail and destroy the original message and all copies. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From spitlist at cox.net Sun Feb 15 17:27:34 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 17:27:34 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Upper wishbone bush install In-Reply-To: <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D807AEF7A9@njem01.scif.com> References: <4995FCE2.12562.20B2C82A@localhost> <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D807AEF7A9@njem01.scif.com> Message-ID: <0E239330E36B4DC1AAD4ECD8AA72A240@joepentiumnew> Cut the head off and the nut off using a saws-all just inside the sides of the bracket. After that, the wishbone will be released and you can remove the remainder of the bushing/bolt with little difficulty. Afterwards, you can install the new bushing normally. If you add liberal amounts of anti-seize compound between the bolt and the steel sleeve of the bushing, you will lessen the chance that it will happen again. It is a common problem in those bushings as well as trunnion bolts. Cheers, Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rob T. Getzinger Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 5:12 PM To: Spitfire list Subject: [Spits] Upper wishbone bush install There is always at least one bolt that rust solid into the front suspension bushings. I had to cut mine out after trying everything else. I tried using a vise to push in a new bushing and it bulged and then wouldn't budge in further. I tried using grease and still only slight movement with a bulge in the rubber keeping it from going in further. What is the method to install stock busings back into the upper wishbone? Thanks, Rob ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ This e-mail message from State Compensation Insurance Fund and all attachments transmitted with it may be privileged or confidential and protected from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, copying, or taking any action based on it is strictly prohibited and may have legal consequences. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender by reply e-mail and destroy the original message and all copies. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Feb 15 17:32:00 2009 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 16:32:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Upper wishbone bush install In-Reply-To: <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D807AEF7A9@njem01.scif.com> Message-ID: <846715.70123.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Sun, 2/15/09, Rob T. Getzinger wrote: > From: Rob T. Getzinger > Subject: [Spits] Upper wishbone bush install > To: "Spitfire list" > Date: Sunday, February 15, 2009, 7:11 PM > There is always at least one bolt that rust solid into the > front suspension > bushings. I had to cut mine out after trying everything > else. I tried using a > vise to push in a new bushing and it bulged and then > wouldn't budge in > further. I tried using grease and still only slight > movement with a bulge in > the rubber keeping it from going in further. > What is the method to install stock busings back into the > upper wishbone? > Thanks, > Rob > > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > This e-mail message from State Compensation Insurance Fund > and all attachments > transmitted with it > may be privileged or confidential and protected from > disclosure. If you are > not the intended recipient, > you are hereby notified that any dissemination, > distribution, copying, or > taking any action based on it > is strictly prohibited and may have legal consequences. If > you have received > this e-mail in error, > please notify the sender by reply e-mail and destroy the > original message and > all copies. > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From doug at dougbraun.com Sun Feb 15 18:44:02 2009 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 17:44:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Fw: Re: Upper wishbone bush install Message-ID: <889155.33355.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Same as for the lower wishbone :-) I have always used a puller made from a long bolt and a bunch of various-sized washers, and the bushings always went in OK. Is the hole where the bushing goes reasonably clean and smooth? Instead of grease, it would be better to use a water based lubricant. You want something that will eventually wash away so the rubber bushing will not permanently slide in the hole. Your local pharmacy will have something suitable :-) Alternatively, dish soap (or "washing up liquid"as they say in Britain) should work well. Doug Braun '72 Spit --- On Sun, 2/15/09, Rob T. Getzinger wrote: > From: Rob T. Getzinger > Subject: [Spits] Upper wishbone bush install > To: "Spitfire list" > Date: Sunday, February 15, 2009, 7:11 PM > What is the method to install stock bushings back into the upper wishbone? From opposumking at verizon.net Sun Feb 15 18:43:57 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 20:43:57 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Upper wishbone bush install In-Reply-To: <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D807AEF7A9@njem01.scif.com> References: <4995FCE2.12562.20B2C82A@localhost> <0F918CBCB159734C8D6121793EDBF0D807AEF7A9@njem01.scif.com> Message-ID: <4998C4DD.7030600@verizon.net> Usually the replacement bushing just pushes in. No great force required. From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Feb 16 10:21:05 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:21:05 -0500 Subject: [Spits] in MA, ME, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT, (Part 1 of 2) Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090216122041.01c8eaa8@cox.net> Hey gang, As most of you know by now, my oldest son (John C Blair) is in the Army and plays for The Army Field Band. They are starting their Spring Tour. So if you like good music, and are near any of the shows below, check them out. For more information on The Army Field Band or their schedule go to their web site: http://www.army.mil/FIELDBAND/pages/schedule/bc_sched.html February 19 7:00 p.m. Medford, NJ Shawnee High School Auditorium For Tickets/Info. call (609) 654-2512 February 20 7:30 p.m. & 9:15 p.m. E. Brunswick, NJ Hilton New Brunswick, The 2009 New Jersey Music Educators Conference, For Tickets/Info. call (732) 367-7195 February 22 3:00 p.m. Millville, NJ Lakeside Middle School Performing Arts Center, For Tickets/Info. call (856) 563-5241 March 5 8:00 p.m. Morristown, NJ Community Theater at the Mayo Center for the Performing Arts, For Tickets/Info. call (973)539-8008 March 6 7:30 p.m. Pelham, NY Pelham Middle School Gymnasium, For Tickets/Info. call (914)738-8110 x1188 March 7 3:00 p.m. Albany, NY Hart Theatre at Empire State Plaza Center for the Performing Arts, "The Egg", For Tickets/Info. call (518)473-1845 March 8 3:00 p.m. Rome, NY Capitol Theatre, For Tickets/Info. call (315)337-6453 March 9 7:30 p.m. Potsdam, NY State University of New York--Potsdam, Hosmer Hall, For Tickets/Info. call (315)267-2277 March 10 7:30 p.m. Newport, VT North Country Union High School Gymnasium, For Tickets/Info. call (802)334-4186 March 11 7:30 p.m. Concord, NH Capitol Center for the Arts--Chubb Theatre, For Tickets/Info. call (603)225-1111 March 12 7:00 p.m. Foxboro, MA Foxboro High School Gymnasium, For Tickets/Info. call (508)236-0397 March 14 11:10 a.m. Providence, RI Rhode Island Convention Center, The 2009 MENC Eastern Division Conference, For Tickets/Info. call (301)677-6586 March 16 7:00 p.m. Andover, MA Andover High School J. Everett Collins Center for the Performing Arts, For Tickets/Info. call (978)623-8218 March 18 7:30 p.m. Worcester, MA Mechanics Hall, For Tickets/Info. call (508)752-0888 (continued) From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Feb 16 10:21:26 2009 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T. Blair) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:21:26 -0500 Subject: [Spits] in MA, ME, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT, (part 2 of 2 Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.1.20090216122110.01c87008@cox.net> March 19 7:00 p.m. Plaistow, NH Timberlane Regional Performing Arts Center, For Tickets/Info. call (603)382-6541 x243 March 20 7:30 p.m. Fairfield, ME Lawrence Senior High School Williamson Auditorium, For Tickets/Info. call (207)453-4200 x273 March 21 7:00 p.m. Sanford, ME Sanford Veterans Memorial Gymnasium, For Tickets/Info. call (207)324-9130 March 22 3:00 p.m. Laconia, NH Memorial Middle School Gymnasium, For Tickets/Info. call (603)524-3800 March 24 7:00 p.m. St. Albans, VT Collins-Perley Sports Complex, For Tickets/Info. call (802)524-2803 x100 March 27 7:00 p.m. Plattsburgh, NY Clinton Community College Arena, For Tickets/Info. call (518)565-4182 Google directions March 28 7:00 p.m. Watertown, NY Jefferson Community College Sturtz Theater, For Tickets/Info. call (315)661-2387 March 29 3:00 p.m. New Berlin, NY Unadilla Valley Central School, For Tickets/Info. call (607)847-7500 x1121 March 31 7:00 p.m. Elba, NY Elba Central School Auditorium, For Tickets/Info. call (585)343-8000 April 1 7:00 p.m. Warren, PA Warren Area High School Auditorium, For Tickets/Info. call (814)723-8200 April 2 7:00 p.m. North Huntingdon, PA Norwin Middle School Auditorium, For Tickets/Info. call (724)861-3039 April 3 7:30 p.m. Chambersburg, PA J. Frank Faust Jr. High School Auditorium, For Tickets/Info. call (717)261-3483 April 15 TBD Deer Park, NY Deer Park High School Auditorium, For Tickets/Info. call (301) 677-6586 April 16 TBD Bronx, NY Yankee Stadium, For Information call (301) 677-6586 John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sat Feb 21 11:48:50 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:48:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Spits] Large Stash of NOS Lucas Parts Message-ID: <23513958.1235242130632.JavaMail.root@elwamui-chisos.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FYI, Best, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Michael Balch in Des Moins This is a website for a company that recently purchased a 2 story warehose full of NOS auto parts. Appears to be mostly vintage Lucas from the 1950s to the 1980s. You can go on the website and see pictures of what they have inventoried so far. If you want something, you send you them an e-mail and they will list it on EBAY. Some of the parts are already listed on EBAY. You may want to pass this on to the British car clubs/folks you know. http://maxwell-thomas.com/default.aspx Mike From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Sat Feb 21 15:01:12 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 17:01:12 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Electric Fan Power Message-ID: <00ab01c9946f$e9400f20$bbc02d60$@net> Apparently, the switch to the thermostat is on the "switched" circuit, meaning that the power to the fan, even when hot, shuts off when the car ignition is turned off. During the summer, this has been causing some heat sink and hard starting in my 1980 Spit. Has anyone tried to re-wire the circuit so that the fan can continue to operate even after the car is shut down? D.L . Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit Six "Joseph" From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 21 16:31:52 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 17:31:52 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Seat rails Message-ID: <9282207D-839E-4326-BA7B-1E7733D888DA@sbcglobal.net> I am restoring my seats and am wondering what anyone has done to clean- up/restore the seat rails? Do the sliding parts come apart? Thanks Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Feb 21 16:58:40 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 18:58:40 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Electric Fan Power In-Reply-To: <00ab01c9946f$e9400f20$bbc02d60$@net> Message-ID: <49A04EE0.16911.1422163A@localhost> On 21 Feb 2009 at 17:01, Daniel Parrott wrote: > Has anyone tried to re-wire the circuit so that the fan > can continue to operate even after the car is shut down? Hmmm, I haven't but I can't think of any reason why you couldn't, provided you trust the switch actually to turn off so the battery doesn't run down. But consider this, without the engine running the water won't circulate through the radiator and block but so fast. The water pump won't be working so the only driving force will be convection. If your problem is due to the carb getting hot, then maybe having the fan run air under the bonnet for a while will cool it down anyway. But it's gonna' take a lot of cooling to bring the block temperature down. That means it will take a lot of time and battery power. On a slightly different tack, a PO had wired a manual switch under the dashboard to control the fan which eventually became mine. (Long story, not worth re-telling, but related to overheating.) I wired it in parallel to the radiator switch. This lets me watch the temp gauge (hey, it must be good for something) and anticipate when the fan might come on. Can't say it help but on a hot day it might let you get a jump on cooling before you're going to park. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Feb 21 18:00:14 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 01:00:14 -0000 Subject: [Spits] Electric Fan Power References: <49A04EE0.16911.1422163A@localhost> Message-ID: <851122D32A644093A79586C1E40F49EF@Bevan> > On 21 Feb 2009 at 17:01, Daniel Parrott wrote: > >> Has anyone tried to re-wire the circuit so that the fan >> can continue to operate even after the car is shut down? Jim Muller's observations are all valid and sensible. I've had a number of modern Euroboxes over the last 20 odd years whose electric fans ran briefly after switch-off. Querying why they did this and purely out of curiousity I noted that: 1 A still running electric fan was only on hot days or after prolonged idling in traffic, and 2. The 'stat was opening and closing far more frequently than I'd appreciated. I tested that with a lab jar, thermometer and the 'stat on the household cooker! I noticed too that sometimes the fan would cut in again after a few minutes and run for up to half a minute. This was operated by a small thermoswitch in the cooling system as an OE fitment and got activated with a continuing supply of overheated water through syphoning and entering the radiator via the 'stat jiggle pin which in turn raised the temperature of the water in the rad. All the cars in question had mainly alloy engines and this enabled them to cool down far faster than cast-iron units, so what is the main reason behind the query Daniel? Jonmac From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Feb 21 18:25:04 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:25:04 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Electric Fan Power In-Reply-To: <851122D32A644093A79586C1E40F49EF@Bevan> Message-ID: <49A06320.10983.147131E0@localhost> On 22 Feb 2009 at 1:00, John Macartney wrote: > Jim Muller's observations are all valid and sensible. Thank you, sir. > I've had a number of modern Euroboxes over the last 20 odd > years whose electric fans ran briefly after switch-off. Back in a prior life I bought a new '74 Fiat X-1/9. First year they came out, I believe, certainly the first in the US. Marvelous little mid-engine throw-about but anemic in the engine department. This was the height of the era of clean-exhaust regulations with only marginal technology to get it done. Carbs were set so lean that hot-starting was always problematic. With the engine packed into the middle of the car and surrounded by insulation, the problem was even worse. (Th radiator was up front.) So Fiat installed a thermo-switched fan just to blow on the carb to prevent vapor lock. One didn't want to stall the engine on a hot day; it might be 5 minutes before it would start again. It was disconcerting to park the car and hear the fan click on as I walked away. It never ran the battery down, but this was a dedicated small fan for the carb, not the general-cooling radiator fan. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Feb 22 09:54:27 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:54:27 EST Subject: [Spits] Electric Fan Power Message-ID: In a message dated 2/21/2009 5:44:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, parrotthead01 at comcast.net writes: Has anyone tried to re-wire the circuit so that the fan can continue to operate even after the car is shut down? My 76 TR7 VE fixed head coupe does exactly that. The fans will run for a couple of minutes after turning off the ignition on a hot day. I thought this was by design but I don't know for sure? I don't believe my TR8 ever did this? I have not rewired either. It is rather annoying for the fans are fairly loud. Darrell **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From spitlist at cox.net Sun Feb 22 10:10:55 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 10:10:55 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Electric Fan Power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Seems to me that one could accomplish this by using a relay that has a built-in delay circuit. This way, it will continue to provide a path for current flow for a predetermined time after the ignition is shut off. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 9:54 AM To: parrotthead01 at comcast.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Electric Fan Power In a message dated 2/21/2009 5:44:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, parrotthead01 at comcast.net writes: Has anyone tried to re-wire the circuit so that the fan can continue to operate even after the car is shut down? My 76 TR7 VE fixed head coupe does exactly that. The fans will run for a couple of minutes after turning off the ignition on a hot day. I thought this was by design but I don't know for sure? I don't believe my TR8 ever did this? I have not rewired either. It is rather annoying for the fans are fairly loud. Darrell **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusye lp00000003) Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 13:32:11 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 15:32:11 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Floor Pan replacement Message-ID: <005b01c9952c$a3ed7e40$ebc87ac0$@net> Well, I'm into the final stages of replacing the rusty floor pans for may 1973/1978 Spit Six project. I ordered the pans from SpitBits, all the way from England. In fitting the pan to the passenger side floor, there appears to be not enough width at the door. Further inspection shows that the replacement pan outside edge is straight from front to back and there is a turned down edge. I appears that the Inner Rocker Panel is getting in the way. My inner and outer rocker panels appear to be ok and will not need replacement (at far as I can tell). So the question is, do I have to remove the Inner Rocker Panel to get to the floor pans, or can I (or should I) cut the old floor along the Inner Rocker Panel and bend the replacement floor panel upward to be tack-welded to the Inner Rocker Panel? Go from this.... Inner Rocker Panel --------- | |---Inner Sill |-----Outer Rocker Panel | | | \____ \_ | _________________________________________ \ | | Floor Pan Folded Down | | | / | | | _______ / | | | | | | | |---Spot Weld To this.........? Inner Rocker Panel ----------- | || |---Inner Sill |--- Outer Rocker Panel Spot Weld--|| | | | \___ \_ | __________________________________ / ___ \ | | Floor Pan Folded Up | | | / | | | ________ / | | | | | | | | Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga. 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 SpitSix "Joseph" From douglashansen at yahoo.com Sun Feb 22 15:22:44 2009 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:22:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Floor Pan replacement References: <005b01c9952c$a3ed7e40$ebc87ac0$@net> Message-ID: <377248.75623.qm@web52203.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The floors are installed from under the car; the front and rear panels fit on top of the floor and the rocker and sill are welded at the bottom edge. there are 2 sills; I call the one inside that you cant see the inner sill. Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com To: spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 3:32:11 PM Subject: [Spits] Floor Pan replacement Well, I'm into the final stages of replacing the rusty floor pans for may 1973/1978 Spit Six project. I ordered the pans from SpitBits, all the way from England. In fitting the pan to the passenger side floor, there appears to be not enough width at the door. Further inspection shows that the replacement pan outside edge is straight from front to back and there is a turned down edge. I appears that the Inner Rocker Panel is getting in the way. My inner and outer rocker panels appear to be ok and will not need replacement (at far as I can tell). So the question is, do I have to remove the Inner Rocker Panel to get to the floor pans, or can I (or should I) cut the old floor along the Inner Rocker Panel and bend the replacement floor panel upward to be tack-welded to the Inner Rocker Panel? Go from this.... Inner Rocker Panel --------- | |---Inner Sill |-----Outer Rocker Panel | | | \____ \_ | _________________________________________ \ | | Floor Pan Folded Down | | | / | | | _______ / | | | | | | | |---Spot Weld To this.........? Inner Rocker Panel ----------- | || |---Inner Sill |--- Outer Rocker Panel Spot Weld--|| | | | \___ \_ | __________________________________ / ___ \ | | Floor Pan Folded Up | | | / | | | ________ / | | | | | | | | Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga. 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 SpitSix "Joseph" Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of floorweld.jpg] From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 22 18:31:00 2009 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 17:31:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] GT6 MK1 Cross member needed Message-ID: <598152.30515.qm@web43141.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Anyone out there have a frame front cross member for a GT6 mk1 or spit mk1 or mk2? I have a rotoflex frame that I'd like to use for a restoration of a MK1...yeah, I know they're different. Nigel at Spitbits seems to think it would be easier to weld a new front cross member to the frame than to try to cut bonnet mounts off the existing frame & line up MK1 bonnet mounts? Experience and wisdom is always welcome! Cheers, Todd Bermudez#596 Cincinnati, OH '68 GT6 MK1 RHD '67 GT6 MK1 RHD '67 GT6 Mk1 LHD '69 GT6+ '69 GT6+ '72 GT6 MK3 '68 Triumph 2000 '68 TR250 '68 TR250 '70 TR6 From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 12:48:52 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 14:48:52 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Dual Turn Signal Lamp Wiring Message-ID: <006801c995ef$c145a8a0$43d0f9e0$@net> Has anyone ever upgraded the single turn signal lamp to dual turn signal lamps (left and right) in a Spitfire 1500? What replacement flasher unit/wiring is required? I want to make the change with my new project car. D. L. Parrott 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit-Six "Joseph" From mowog73 at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 14:24:35 2009 From: mowog73 at gmail.com (Mark) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 16:24:35 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Floor Pan replacement Message-ID: Hi Daniel, The inner rocker panel (sill) has a flat bottom to it and is welded to the floor. The centre rocker panel's (membrane) bottom edge is welded to the floor's turned down edge. I just did this last year and have a few pictures of this area if you are interested. Mark Subject: [Spits] Floor Pan replacement Further inspection shows that the replacement pan outside edge is straight from front to back and there is a turned down edge. I appears that the Inner Rocker Panel is getting in the way. My inner and outer rocker panels appear to be ok and will not need replacement (at far as I can tell). So the question is, do I have to remove the Inner Rocker Panel to get to the floor pans, or can I (or should I) cut the old floor along the Inner Rocker Panel and bend the replacement floor panel upward to be tack-welded to the Inner Rocker Panel? From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Wed Feb 25 07:04:33 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 09:04:33 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? Message-ID: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> I'm upgrading the fuel system for my Spit Six. I see that there is a recommendation to add a "Safety Switch" to the system to stop the fuel flow in case of an accident. A little research shows that I can get a switch that shuts the fuel flow based on either a sudden stop (Inertia) or a drop in oil pressure. Which is preferable, and will an MGB Inertia Switch work (there are several available on eBay). Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" From cwn74 at aol.com Wed Feb 25 08:12:57 2009 From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 10:12:57 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? In-Reply-To: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> References: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> Message-ID: <005701c9975b$8a4781d0$9ed68570$@com> Any inertia switch should work. They are in all cars with electric fuel pumps to my knowledge. It is a simple switch to interrupt power to the fuel pump in a crash. My mother's 1985 Mercury had one in the trunk. They work. Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Feb 25 09:21:52 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 11:21:52 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? In-Reply-To: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> Message-ID: <49A529D0.22758.5FA1CFC@localhost> On 25 Feb 2009 at 9:04, Daniel Parrott wrote: > ...a switch that shuts the fuel flow based on either a sudden > stop (Inertia) or a drop in oil pressure. Which is preferable[?] Can't say I've ever done this, but I would ask - how hard do you stomp on the brakes? Are inertia switches calibrated for that? On the other hand, an oik-pressure-drop switch must have an override circuit tied to the ignition key, possibly the accessories position, so that it will generate fule pressure when the engine is first started. > and will an MGB Inertia Switch work Only if you expect your SpitSix to have the inertia of an MGB. They need a dedicated switch to keep it all under control. You probably won't. > (there are several available on eBay). And why do you suppose there are so many available? :-) -- Just trying to help. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Feb 25 11:02:41 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 13:02:41 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? References: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> Message-ID: <001b01c99773$4120c670$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> I wouldn't recommend either. There's a reason companies like Volvo, Toyota, etc don't use them. Mostly having to do with them causing more problems than they solve. If you are absolutely determined to go the route of Ford and GM and install one, I'd suggest an inertia switch over an oil pressure cut off switch. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Parrott" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 9:04 AM Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? > I'm upgrading the fuel system for my Spit Six. I see that there is a > recommendation to add a "Safety Switch" to the system to stop the fuel > flow > in case of an accident. A little research shows that I can get a switch > that shuts the fuel flow based on either a sudden stop (Inertia) or a drop > in oil pressure. Which is preferable, and will an MGB Inertia Switch work > (there are several available on eBay). From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Wed Feb 25 11:30:25 2009 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 12:30:25 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement In-Reply-To: <001b01c99773$4120c670$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> References: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> <001b01c99773$4120c670$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: Seeking the wisdom of the list: My wife's Mk3 Spit needs the passeger side rear wing and sills (inner, middle and outer panels) replaced. Which is the best order to proceed? Remove and replace the wing first, then do the sills or the other way around? Or does it matter as long as the alignment is all kept in spec? cheers Scott _________________________________________________________________ How fun is this? IMing with Windows Live Messenger just got better. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/products/messenger.aspx From buss3 at rogers.com Wed Feb 25 12:08:02 2009 From: buss3 at rogers.com (Grant Buss) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:08:02 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch Message-ID: I installed the switch that is controlled by oil pressure. I think it lets the fuel pump run if there is ten pounds of oil pressure. It's been on 4 or 5 years and has not given any problems. From nmoseley at dccnet.com Wed Feb 25 12:19:49 2009 From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 11:19:49 -0800 Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement In-Reply-To: References: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> <001b01c99773$4120c670$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: I've only replaced parts of middle sill, part of A post, and full outer sill. At that time, noted that the dog-leg at the bottom of the wing, in front of the wheel, would get in the way of a replacing a full middle, inner, and outer sill. That being the case, suggested order would be: -big number 1, brace the a- and b-posts so they can't move. I just welded angle iron on the inside edges of both. -remove dog leg of old rear wing, so you can get at the sills, -remove and replace inner and middle sills -remove and replace rear wing -replace outer sill. Hope that helps Nick Moseley -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scotts junk Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 10:30 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement Seeking the wisdom of the list: My wife's Mk3 Spit needs the passeger side rear wing and sills (inner, middle and outer panels) replaced. Which is the best order to proceed? Remove and replace the wing first, then do the sills or the other way around? Or does it matter as long as the alignment is all kept in spec? From fishplate at charter.net Wed Feb 25 12:28:57 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 11:28:57 -0800 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? In-Reply-To: <001b01c99773$4120c670$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <20090225142857.6ECEY.1428916.root@mp12> ---- Nolan wrote: > If you are absolutely determined to go the route of Ford and GM and install > one, I'd suggest an inertia switch over an oil pressure cut off switch. The third option is one VW used in the 80s...it captured a pulse from the alternator to enable the fuel pump relay. Jeff Scarbrough Schmieraffe, Ga. From spitlist at cox.net Wed Feb 25 12:38:42 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 12:38:42 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement In-Reply-To: References: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net><001b01c99773$4120c670$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <06736873B03143B0AF810B87F633436D@joepentiumnew> I'd rip out all the bad metal and install in the logical order, which probably means: Inside sills Outside sills rear panel Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scotts junk Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 11:30 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement Seeking the wisdom of the list: My wife's Mk3 Spit needs the passeger side rear wing and sills (inner, middle and outer panels) replaced. Which is the best order to proceed? Remove and replace the wing first, then do the sills or the other way around? Or does it matter as long as the alignment is all kept in spec? cheers Scott _________________________________________________________________ How fun is this? IMing with Windows Live Messenger just got better. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/products/messenger.aspx Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From cwn74 at aol.com Wed Feb 25 13:30:28 2009 From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 15:30:28 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> If it works how do you start the car? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." -----Original Message----- Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch I installed the switch that is controlled by oil pressure. I think it lets the fuel pump run if there is ten pounds of oil pressure. It's been on 4 or 5 years and has not given any problems. _______________________________________________ From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Wed Feb 25 13:58:56 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 15:58:56 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch In-Reply-To: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> References: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> Message-ID: <005701c9978b$dffbcfc0$9ff36f40$@net> Good question................. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1973/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clark W. Nicholls Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 3:30 PM To: 'Grant Buss'; 'spitfires-list' Subject: Re: [Spits] Safety Switch If it works how do you start the car? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." -----Original Message----- Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch I installed the switch that is controlled by oil pressure. I think it lets the fuel pump run if there is ten pounds of oil pressure. It's been on 4 or 5 years and has not given any problems. _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Wed Feb 25 14:18:52 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 14:18:52 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch In-Reply-To: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> References: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> Message-ID: My guess is that it works like the relay on FI systems that pulse for a few seconds to charge the system and shuts off. Once the car starts, it will continue to run until the controlling signal (in this case the oil pressure) is interrupted. Joe. -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Clark W. Nicholls Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 1:30 PM To: 'Grant Buss'; 'spitfires-list' Subject: Re: [Spits] Safety Switch If it works how do you start the car? Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." -----Original Message----- Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch I installed the switch that is controlled by oil pressure. I think it lets the fuel pump run if there is ten pounds of oil pressure. It's been on 4 or 5 years and has not given any problems. _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From cwn74 at aol.com Wed Feb 25 14:27:52 2009 From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 16:27:52 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch In-Reply-To: <005701c9978b$dffbcfc0$9ff36f40$@net> References: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> <005701c9978b$dffbcfc0$9ff36f40$@net> Message-ID: <003e01c9978f$ea475270$bed5f750$@com> Depending on what you want to do, an inertia switch will protect you in an accident (they are not dependent on the mass of the car to work) and an oil pressure switch will help in a loss of oil pressure. In an accident if the engine shuts down the oil pressure drops and the oil switch will shut off the electric fuel pump, but if the engine continues to run so will the pump, even if there is a leak in the fuel delivery system. I would assume the inertia switch from the factory was a safety mandate from somewhere so I guess that adds credibility in using one. I've had experience in 2 accidents where the switches did their job. Hard braking will not activate an inertia switch, come on! Your call! Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 25 15:46:02 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 16:46:02 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Seat rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6359F8FB-B7EF-4CC0-A385-41E9B1C4D51C@sbcglobal.net> This is essentially what I have done, except I hammered the dimples flat until the rollers would come out. the rollers and o-rings on the 1st seat look fine and will be reused. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO On Feb 25, 2009, at 3:31 PM, joe at ados.net wrote: > On my '73, I was repairing some minor rust in the floors last winter > and decided to take on that > task while I was at it. There is a little dimple in the metal rails > that keeps them from sliding > apart completely. I just took a dremel tool and ground down the > dimple until the two tracks would > slide apart. There are a couple little rollers in there with what > looks like o-rings on them. I > cleaned them well with a wire brush and reassembled them with a > liberal coating of grease. They > move much better than they ever did before. > > I do recall however that simply moving the almost completely seized > up tracks required liberal use > a large hammer and some well placed wood blocks. Be careful if you > need to do that not to bend the > tracks or they won't move well when you're done. > > Joe Frakes From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Feb 25 15:47:34 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 17:47:34 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch In-Reply-To: <003e01c9978f$ea475270$bed5f750$@com> References: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> <005701c9978b$dffbcfc0$9ff36f40$@net> <003e01c9978f$ea475270$bed5f750$@com> Message-ID: <49A5CA86.7080206@verizon.net> >Hard braking will not activate an inertia switch, come on! Generally no. Though it depends on the inertia switch, and how you mount it. Regardless, the Ford interrupt switches are rather notorious for tripping when you hit a pothole. An infuriating problem. Many are bypassed because of this. From buss3 at rogers.com Wed Feb 25 17:17:57 2009 From: buss3 at rogers.com (Grant Buss) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 19:17:57 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch References: <001001c99787$e5a27c20$b0e77460$@com> Message-ID: By the time the engine turns over once there is enough oil pressure to let the fuel pump work. My engine usually starts with very few terns. The switch is not a problem. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clark W. Nicholls" To: "'Grant Buss'" ; "'spitfires-list'" Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 3:30 PM Subject: RE: [Spits] Safety Switch > If it works how do you start the car? > > Clark > Clark W. Nicholls > 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 2 rusty GT6's needing restoration) > "Reality, it's not what you think." > > -----Original Message----- > Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch > > I installed the switch that is controlled by oil pressure. I think it lets > the > fuel pump run if there is ten pounds of oil pressure. It's been on 4 or 5 > years and has not given any problems. > _______________________________________________ From mowog73 at gmail.com Thu Feb 26 04:52:01 2009 From: mowog73 at gmail.com (Mark) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 06:52:01 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Order of panel replacement Message-ID: Rear wing then sill. The wing fits in behind the sill. Mark My wife's Mk3 Spit needs the passeger side rear wing and sills (inner, middle and outer panels) replaced. Which is the best order to proceed? Remove and replace the wing first, then do the sills or the other way around? Or does it matter as long as the alignment is all kept in spec? From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Feb 26 06:43:58 2009 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 05:43:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? In-Reply-To: <002101c99751$fc2ecb00$f48c6100$@net> Message-ID: <953376.37125.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Last year I saw an accident where a SUV had flipped on its side, and the wheels were still slowly spinning, because the engine was still running. So I would lean towards the inertia valve. I guess it's especially important if the pump is back next to the tank. If the pump were close to the carb, a break in the fuel line behind it would not be such a big danger. Or just use a stock mechanical pump. That approach has always worked fine for my car :-) Doug Braun '72 Spit --- On Wed, 2/25/09, Daniel Parrott wrote: > From: Daniel Parrott > Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch? > To: spitfires at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, February 25, 2009, 9:04 AM > I'm upgrading the fuel system for my Spit Six. I see > that there is a > recommendation to add a "Safety Switch" to the > system to stop the fuel flow > in case of an accident. A little research shows that I can > get a switch > that shuts the fuel flow based on either a sudden stop > (Inertia) or a drop > in oil pressure. Which is preferable, and will an MGB > Inertia Switch work > (there are several available on eBay). From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Feb 26 07:21:27 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 09:21:27 EST Subject: [Spits] Safety Switch Message-ID: In a message dated 2/25/2009 6:27:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, opposumking at verizon.net writes: Regardless, the Ford interrupt switches are rather notorious for tripping when you hit a pothole. An infuriating problem The Triumph TR8 has a switch like this! Mine has never tripped but I have heard of others having problems. Darrell **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004)