From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Sat Dec 5 17:32:07 2009 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:32:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials Message-ID: <590714.36025.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Fellow Listers; This afternoon I removed the differential from my '77 Spitfire, for it was getting very noisy under load. I have several used differentials available to swap in (four actually), however I noticed that one of them is different than the rest. It has a drain plug on the bottom and it has 6 holes for the mounting studs. I'm assuming that this differential is from an early Spitfire. I have no idea from what car it came from, since I acquired it through a large parts deal. My question: are all Spitfire differentials interchangeable? I know that the early units had different ratios, but will a an early unit mount up to my '77? Thanks for the information, Matt Milkevitch'77 SpitfireWillow Grove, PA From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Dec 5 20:56:57 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 22:56:57 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials In-Reply-To: <590714.36025.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B1AE539.3922.87445B@localhost> On 5 Dec 2009 at 16:32, Matthew Milkevitch wrote: > This afternoon I removed the differential from my '77 Spitfire, > for it was getting very noisy under load. Sure it wasn't just a U-joint? > I noticed that one of them is different than the rest. It has a > drain plug on the bottom and it has 6 holes for the mounting studs. > I'm assuming that this differential is from an early Spitfire. I've never seen an early Spitfire diff so perhaps that's what it is. But most likely it is from a GT6. The six studs is the clue. The drain plug would have been added by a PO, not a bad thing. > are all Spitfire differentials interchangeable? As far as I know they are but, as you say, their ratios will be different. You can measure various key dimensions to be sure. Check the distance between the ears at the rear and their thickness. Check the distance between the front mounts and how far forward they are from the rear ears. Check the distance between the halfshaft u-joint flanges. Finally, check the position of the driveshaft flange, how far forward it is from the front mounts. I'm betting the diff with six stud holes is positioned differently. And if their cases are different you should see the differences easily. One final test. When you've chosen your preference fill it with oil to the bottom of the filler plug hole, put the plug in, and tilt it forward. The front oil seal can leak, and you don't want to use one that starts dripping as soon as you fill it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Sat Dec 5 22:30:16 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 22:30:16 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials In-Reply-To: <4B1AE539.3922.87445B@localhost> References: <590714.36025.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4B1AE539.3922.87445B@localhost> Message-ID: The early Spit Differentials as well as the Herald ones have 6 mounting studs because they have a clamping plate on top of the spring instead of that ridiculous rocker box which can only use 4 studs. The Rotoflex diffs also have 6 studs. The Herald and other early diffs have a drain plug at the bottom. This was eliminated in later ones I assume to save a couple of bucks. Some industrious lads have tapped that boss and added a plug (a good idea in my opinion. The main difference in diffs that fit Spitfires in the size of the input and output flanges. The early ones and Herald diffs have a smaller flange. The later ones have the same size flange as the GT6 uses. If you have a diff with 6 studs and larger flanges it is most likely from a GT6. To be sure you can check the serial number. If it begins with FC, It came from a round tail Spit. Of it has FH, it is a later Spit. If it starts with the latter G, it is from a Herald. If it starts with the letter K, it is from a GT6. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 8:57 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials On 5 Dec 2009 at 16:32, Matthew Milkevitch wrote: > This afternoon I removed the differential from my '77 Spitfire, > for it was getting very noisy under load. Sure it wasn't just a U-joint? > I noticed that one of them is different than the rest. It has a > drain plug on the bottom and it has 6 holes for the mounting studs. > I'm assuming that this differential is from an early Spitfire. I've never seen an early Spitfire diff so perhaps that's what it is. But most likely it is from a GT6. The six studs is the clue. The drain plug would have been added by a PO, not a bad thing. > are all Spitfire differentials interchangeable? From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sun Dec 6 04:24:13 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 06:24:13 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials Message-ID: <380-220091206112413475@M2W128.mail2web.com> All late models are basically interchangeable (all square tail diffs, as well as any GT6 would fit since they all have the larger flanges) The 6 stud is most likely a GT6 and would need the inner most set of holes plugged leaving the only four outer holes for the spring housing. However, 76 and later Spitfires have a bit stronger differential than all others INCLUDING the GT because of a slight change in the ring gear/spider gear housing casting. You might want to check what you have though because there are different ratios - 1970, and earlier will not bolt up since the flanges are smaller and use smaller bolts Original Message: ----------------- Fellow Listers; This afternoon I removed the differential from my '77 Spitfire, for it was getting very noisy under load. I have several used differentials available to swap in (four actually), however I noticed that one of them is different than the rest. It has a drain plug on the bottom and it has 6 holes for the mounting studs. I'm assuming that this differential is from an early Spitfire. I have no idea from what car it came from, since I acquired it through a large parts deal. My question: are all Spitfire differentials interchangeable? I know that the early units had different ratios, but will a an early unit mount up to my '77? Thanks for the information, Matt Milkevitch'77 SpitfireWillow Grove, PA You are subscribed as v6spitfireguy at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From cwnfot at gmail.com Sun Dec 6 05:48:02 2009 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 07:48:02 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Differentials In-Reply-To: <590714.36025.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <590714.36025.qm@web50906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001e01ca7672$59dff800$0d9fe800$@com> GT6 diffs likely 3.27 ratio, your Spitfire was 3.89. I put a 3.27 in my 1974 Spitfire once and it is a bear to get off from a start and low revs while driving. Also the 1971 and 1972 Spitfire diffs are 4.11 ratio like the early round tail. Above information from memory... You should open the diff you want to use and clean it out, inspect the internals. A drain plug can be installed at this point also. It's a lot of work to install and remove if it proves wrong! Clark From cwnfot at gmail.com Sun Dec 6 13:05:22 2009 From: cwnfot at gmail.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 15:05:22 -0500 Subject: [Spits] 1974 Spitfire FS in Schenectady NY $1500 Message-ID: <005301ca76af$720f2530$562d6f90$@com> This was listed on Craigslist in Albany, NY area http://www.facebook.com/l/6be56;albany.craigslist.org/cto/1469363402.html Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag 1974 Spitfire (and 1 rusty GT6 needing restoration) "Reality, it's not what you think." From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Mon Dec 7 11:04:24 2009 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 10:04:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] GT6 Diff in a Spitfire Message-ID: <111773.6751.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Fellow Listers; First, thanks to all who responded about the interchangeability of the Spitfire differentials. At present, I am considering putting a GT6 diff into my Spitfire. Therefore, I have a request for opinions....Has anyone on the list installed the GT6 3.27 diff into their Spitfire? And if so, what comments do you have on drivability? Is the car hard to get off the line? Thanks From Brian.Smith at abitibibowater.com Mon Dec 7 12:10:33 2009 From: Brian.Smith at abitibibowater.com (Brian.Smith at abitibibowater.com) Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:10:33 -0600 Subject: [Spits] GT6 Diff in a Spitfire In-Reply-To: <111773.6751.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <111773.6751.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Matt, That's what my 72 Spit has always had in it. I have never noticed a problem with launch. Brian H. Smith Environmental Engineer AbitibiBowater Coosa Pines Mill (256) 378-2126 From: Matthew Milkevitch To: spitfires at autox.team.net Date: 12/07/2009 01:07 PM Subject: [Spits] GT6 Diff in a Spitfire Sent by: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net Fellow Listers; First, thanks to all who responded about the interchangeability of the Spitfire differentials. At present, I am considering putting a GT6 diff into my Spitfire. Therefore, I have a request for opinions....Has anyone on the list installed the GT6 3.27 diff into their Spitfire? And if so, what comments do you have on drivability? Is the car hard to get off the line? Thanks You are subscribed as brian.smith at abitibibowater.com Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Mon Dec 7 12:17:09 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 12:17:09 -0700 Subject: [Spits] GT6 Diff in a Spitfire In-Reply-To: <111773.6751.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <111773.6751.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B1D54B5.1090309@bradakis.com> > Has anyone on the list installed the GT6 3.27 > diff into their Spitfire? And if so, what comments do you have on > drivability? Is the car hard to get off the line? > > http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/spitfires/2009-12/msg00004.html From s1500 at comcast.net Tue Dec 8 20:58:30 2009 From: s1500 at comcast.net (s1500) Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 21:58:30 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? Message-ID: <4B1F2066.90108@comcast.net> Randomly found this quote: "It has not been forgotten, of course. Aside from still having many fans the world over, the Spitfire was a major inspiration for Mazda's MX-5 Miata a decade later. Mazda even used a Spitfire body for stealth development testing of the Miata chassis -- a literal fitting tribute to the TR's endearing little sister." Is this true? If so, fascinating! From spitlist at cox.net Fri Dec 11 21:45:06 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 21:45:06 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? In-Reply-To: <4B1F2066.90108@comcast.net> References: <4B1F2066.90108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7A04D2805ED14002A4EA35119537C4CE@joepentiumnew> I believe the inspiration for the Miata was actually the Lotus Elan. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1500 Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 8:59 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? Randomly found this quote: "It has not been forgotten, of course. Aside from still having many fans the world over, the Spitfire was a major inspiration for Mazda's MX-5 Miata a decade later. Mazda even used a Spitfire body for stealth development testing of the Miata chassis -- a literal fitting tribute to the TR's endearing little sister." Is this true? If so, fascinating! You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Dec 11 22:32:26 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 00:32:26 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? In-Reply-To: <4B1F2066.90108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B22E49A.23337.15E6C281@localhost> On 8 Dec 2009 at 21:58, s1500 wrote: > "It has not been forgotten, of course. Aside from still having many fans the world over, the Spitfire was a major > inspiration for > Mazda's MX-5 Miata a decade later. Mazda even used a Spitfire body for stealth development testing of the Miata > chassis -- a literal > fitting tribute to the TR's endearing little sister." > > Is this true? If so, fascinating! That was one story I heard back then. Don't know what Mazda ever said though. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From douglashansen at yahoo.com Fri Dec 11 23:24:49 2009 From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 22:24:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? In-Reply-To: <7A04D2805ED14002A4EA35119537C4CE@joepentiumnew> References: <4B1F2066.90108@comcast.net> <7A04D2805ED14002A4EA35119537C4CE@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <910665.24357.qm@web52202.mail.re2.yahoo.com> What Ive read in some older books is that they had one Elan and one Spit and told the engineers to drive both and build something. Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com ________________________________ From: Joe Curry To: s1500 ; spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, December 11, 2009 11:45:06 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? I believe the inspiration for the Miata was actually the Lotus Elan. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s1500 Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 8:59 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? Randomly found this quote: "It has not been forgotten, of course. Aside from still having many fans the world over, the Spitfire was a major inspiration for Mazda's MX-5 Miata a decade later. Mazda even used a Spitfire body for stealth development testing of the Miata chassis -- a literal fitting tribute to the TR's endearing little sister." Is this true? If so, fascinating! You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as douglashansen at yahoo.com Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From opposumking at verizon.net Sat Dec 12 13:18:36 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 15:18:36 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire acestry in the Miata? In-Reply-To: <7A04D2805ED14002A4EA35119537C4CE@joepentiumnew> References: <4B1F2066.90108@comcast.net> <7A04D2805ED14002A4EA35119537C4CE@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4B23FA9C.5010007@verizon.net> Yep. You can read the articles about it from the Mazda designers over on the Miata forum. Elan, yes. Spitfire, no. A cursory glance at the car makes it quite clear. Joe Curry wrote: > I believe the inspiration for the Miata was actually the Lotus Elan. > > Joe From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Dec 17 15:52:03 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:52:03 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Engine identification (Warning MG content) Message-ID: <380-220091241722523840@M2W109.mail2web.com> Can anybody with an MG midget (or info about) confirm an engine number FP69710UE as a 1979 MG Midget 1500 engine. I just picked this up at a very good price, and am going to use it in my wife's Spitfire. Just so I can confirm parts (Triumph of course) replacement - Its a complete long block, looks like it hasn't been worked on (at least seriously) and had about 80K on it so it's definitely in need of a rebuild. Plugs looked sooty, but dry (number 3 had a very slight oil to it, and confirmed .010 thrust washer movement - so it looks like I got a winner! I'm hoping I can just polish up the journals and install new bearings, but that will have to wait till I can open'er up Barry Schwartz -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From mmilkevitch at yahoo.com Fri Dec 18 17:20:22 2009 From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com (Matthew Milkevitch) Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 16:20:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] Differential Installation Message-ID: <949262.8304.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Fellow Listers; I am in the process of installing a used Diff in my '77 Spitfire....and it's quite the job. I have been able to get the rear mount in (the long bolt), but I'm having some trouble getting the front mounts to bolt up. I am installing polyurethane bushings in this install, so I'm sure the reduced pliability of these bushings are contributing to this problem. I wanted to solicit any tips/advice on this install....anyone "been there, done that" and having any useful information? Thanks for you help, Matt Milkevitch'77 SpitfireWillow Grove, PA From growe58 at hotmail.com Fri Dec 18 18:24:23 2009 From: growe58 at hotmail.com (Greg Rowe) Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 20:24:23 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Differential Installation In-Reply-To: <949262.8304.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <949262.8304.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hello neighbor! I've done a couple of diffs plus talked to other folks about it and there are at least two ways to install a diff. The first is like you did, put the long bolt in the back in first, then swing the diff up and bolt the "ears" up to the front. While this is the easiest way, the frame is REALLY close and often prevents the diff from swinging all the way up so you have to remove the long bolt and start all over. I'm not sure if that's your issue. The second way is to raise the diff straight up into place (I built a wooden cradle for my trolley jack) and sort of lay the rear nubs in their proper place while loosly bolting up the front "ears". Then you jostle the diff around while swearing and trying to get the rear hole to line up. It's difficult to be sure from your description but you may actually have a third problem. Spitfire frames weren't built to the most exacting of tolerances and I've been told that when the factory went to fit the diffs, it was often necessary to do some minor bending of the ears to get it to fit. Since you're installing a used diff from another car, it may have simply been bent slightly different from the original one and the solution is to bend the ears to fit your car. The weight of the diff and the awkward angle that you have to work at make this a really fun job huh? At least with the snow coming in, it takes off the pressure to get this done right away. Good luck! Greg Rowe 1979 Spitfire Hatfield PA > Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 16:20:22 -0800 > From: mmilkevitch at yahoo.com > To: spitfires at autox.team.net > Subject: [Spits] Differential Installation > > Fellow Listers; > I am in the process of installing a used Diff in my '77 Spitfire....and it's > quite the job. I have been able to get the rear mount in (the long bolt), but > I'm having some trouble getting the front mounts to bolt up. > I am installing polyurethane bushings in this install, so I'm sure the reduced > pliability of these bushings are contributing to this problem. > I wanted to solicit any tips/advice on this install....anyone "been there, > done that" and having any useful information? > Thanks for you help, > Matt Milkevitch'77 SpitfireWillow Grove, PA _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/ From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Dec 18 19:45:02 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 21:45:02 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Differential Installation In-Reply-To: References: <949262.8304.qm@web50903.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B2BF7DE.23000.3959F26E@localhost> On 18 Dec 2009 at 20:24, Greg Rowe wrote: > The second way is to raise the diff straight up into place > > (I built a wooden cradle for my trolley jack) It's been a long time since I replaced a diff but... When I did mine I lifted it up slowly with a small hydraulic jack. As I recall (and with luck I'm not imagining the memory), the problem with putting the long bolt through the rear first is that the front of the diff then swings through an arc. So as the diff swings up into place, when the holes into which the forward studs are supposed to go first contact the bushings they aren't as far forward as they will eventually end up. You may be able to remedy this by putting the bushings on the studs then swing the diff up to contact the bushings. That way you just have to seat the bushings into their sockets, and the studs into the much larger holes in the diff mounting flanges. Of course, the problem then is keeping the bushings in place, seeing as how gravity tends to pull them back down so they fall off. Or you can raise the entire diff into place with a jack or cradle so that the long-bolt ears and the front studs slip into place together, then thread a nut onto a stud to hold it in place, then insert the long bolt, then finish the front nuts. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From trbob at comcast.net Sat Dec 19 09:48:51 2009 From: trbob at comcast.net (Bob Krivnko) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 11:48:51 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Differential Installation In-Reply-To: <4B2BF7DE.23000.3959F26E@localhost> Message-ID: <14D6E0F09E0F4F078E3F37CCECA076D6@kriputer> I replaced the rear in my spit this past summer and the way I did it was to put grease on the top of the top bushing and kinda glue it in place to the frame so it wouldn't keep dropping down or falling off. I then put the rear on the hydraulic jack and raised it up into place. The problem I ran into was aligning the rear bolt into the hole. The rear was too far forward and wouldn't flex with the new hardened poly bushings so with the front pins and poly bushings in place, I had to use a ratchet strap around the rearend and part of the frame to draw it back to the rear so I could align the holes with the bolt. It was a pain but I got it in. I hope this helps. Good luck. Bob Krivenko -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 9:45 PM To: Spitfires Subject: Re: [Spits] Differential Installation On 18 Dec 2009 at 20:24, Greg Rowe wrote: > The second way is to raise the diff straight up into place > > (I built a wooden cradle for my trolley jack) It's been a long time since I replaced a diff but... When I did mine I lifted it up slowly with a small hydraulic jack. As I recall (and with luck I'm not imagining the memory), the problem with putting the long bolt through the rear first is that the front of the diff then swings through an arc. So as the diff swings up into place, when the holes into which the forward studs are supposed to go first contact the bushings they aren't as far forward as they will eventually end up. You may be able to remedy this by putting the bushings on the studs then swing the diff up to contact the bushings. That way you just have to seat the bushings into their sockets, and the studs into the much larger holes in the diff mounting flanges. Of course, the problem then is keeping the bushings in place, seeing as how gravity tends to pull them back down so they fall off. Or you can raise the entire diff into place with a jack or cradle so that the long-bolt ears and the front studs slip into place together, then thread a nut onto a stud to hold it in place, then insert the long bolt, then finish the front nuts. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Tue Dec 22 14:47:14 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 16:47:14 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Alloy Sway Bar Bracket Message-ID: <005601ca8350$536f35e0$fa4da1a0$@net> Does any manufacture a nice-looking allow sway bar bracket for a 7/8 in diameter sway bar, poly bushings (1.25 inches high, 1.3 inches wide and 1 inch deep)? The standard thin metal bracket doesn't fit. TIA. Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" From parrotthead01 at comcast.net Sun Dec 27 16:15:05 2009 From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 18:15:05 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Rear Wheel Stud Removal Message-ID: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net> Now that I have the Canley Classics CV joint-axels in, I cranked on the rear hubs. When I added the road wheels to the frame (to get the rolling chassis really "rolling") if find that for some reasons none of the wheel studs will tighten, the threads are too small. I need to replace the wheel studs at this point for both of the rear axles. However, how does one actually remove the wheel studs on a hub that is already installed? I have a Churchill tool, but if the studs are so buggered up that they won't hold a tire on, I'm sure that the Churchill Hub Puller (also from Canley Classics) won't do the trick. Is there a special tool or technique? I tried to hammer the stud to no avail. TIA Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" From spitlist at cox.net Sun Dec 27 17:26:50 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 17:26:50 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Rear Wheel Stud Removal In-Reply-To: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net> References: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net> Message-ID: <9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> If they are the stock studs, there is enough clearance between the hub and backing plate for the studs to be removed. All you have to do is knock them back with a hammer and remove them from behind. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Parrott Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 4:15 PM To: 'Spitfire list' Subject: [Spits] Rear Wheel Stud Removal Now that I have the Canley Classics CV joint-axels in, I cranked on the rear hubs. When I added the road wheels to the frame (to get the rolling chassis really "rolling") if find that for some reasons none of the wheel studs will tighten, the threads are too small. I need to replace the wheel studs at this point for both of the rear axles. However, how does one actually remove the wheel studs on a hub that is already installed? I have a Churchill tool, but if the studs are so buggered up that they won't hold a tire on, I'm sure that the Churchill Hub Puller (also from Canley Classics) won't do the trick. Is there a special tool or technique? I tried to hammer the stud to no avail. TIA Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ" 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car "Joseph" You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From krhodes1 at maine.rr.com Sun Dec 27 18:57:56 2009 From: krhodes1 at maine.rr.com (Kevin Rhodes) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 20:57:56 -0500 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft In-Reply-To: <9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> References: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net> <9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on one end and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that big joint? I assume it should have some grease in it or something? I've noticed that it has a good bit of play in it and lets out a clang on occasion.... Kevin Rhodes Westbrook, Maine Freddy the mongrel Spitfire - still going strong after 15 years (!) of ownership From spitlist at cox.net Sun Dec 27 20:33:16 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 20:33:16 -0700 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft In-Reply-To: <07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net><9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> <07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: I don't know which CV-Joints your car has because there are a lot of cars that they could have been taken from, but typically, one side of the CV Joint has a rubber "gaiter" attached to it. The piece is secured to the axle shaft somewhat like the gaiters on steering racks (with a hose clamp). If yours is like that, you can loosen the clamp and shoot a good quality grease into the gaiter and tighten the clamp. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Rhodes Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 6:58 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on one end and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that big joint? I assume it should have some grease in it or something? I've noticed that it has a good bit of play in it and lets out a clang on occasion.... Kevin Rhodes Westbrook, Maine Freddy the mongrel Spitfire - still going strong after 15 years (!) of ownership You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Dec 27 20:57:19 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 22:57:19 -0500 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft In-Reply-To: <07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4B37E64F.12444.104A64F8@localhost> On 27 Dec 2009 at 20:57, Kevin Rhodes wrote: > My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on > one end and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that > big joint? I've always been told that those things can't be fixed. However you could take it by a driveshaft shop such as works on trucks, have them weld on a new joint or do whatever they do. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mark at bradakis.com Sun Dec 27 21:22:58 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:22:58 -0700 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft In-Reply-To: References: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net><9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> <07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B3832A2.2070609@bradakis.com> Joe Curry wrote: > I don't know which CV-Joints your car has because there are a lot of cars > that they could have been taken from, but typically, one side of the CV > Joint has a rubber "gaiter" attached to it. I'd guess he has the standard driveshaft found on all the Spits of that vintage. There is no rubber boot, but I seem to recall that there is a threaded collar one can coax off and apply grease to the joint. It has been a while since I've worked on one, most of my recent experience is with just the 2 U-joint shafts. mjb. From spitlist at cox.net Sun Dec 27 21:40:47 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:40:47 -0700 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft In-Reply-To: <4B37E64F.12444.104A64F8@localhost> References: <9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> <4B37E64F.12444.104A64F8@localhost> Message-ID: Typically CV-Joints are easily replaceable. Most have splines in the center and is secured to the axle by a circlip. The other side has a flange that is bolted onto the CV-Joint and is splined on the other end so that it slides onto the other shaft and likewise is held on by a clip. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 8:57 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft On 27 Dec 2009 at 20:57, Kevin Rhodes wrote: > My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on > one end and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that > big joint? I've always been told that those things can't be fixed. However you could take it by a driveshaft shop such as works on trucks, have them weld on a new joint or do whatever they do. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sun Dec 27 21:59:35 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:59:35 -0700 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft In-Reply-To: <4B3832A2.2070609@bradakis.com> References: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net><9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew><07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <4B3832A2.2070609@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Not if he has CV-Joints on them! Clive Averill has a CV-Joint upgrade to replace Rotoflex couplers on cars so equipped and I am led to believe that there is a kit from Canley Classics but that is all I know about that one. The one from Clive uses VW Rabbit CV-Joints. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 9:23 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft Joe Curry wrote: > I don't know which CV-Joints your car has because there are a lot of cars > that they could have been taken from, but typically, one side of the CV > Joint has a rubber "gaiter" attached to it. I'd guess he has the standard driveshaft found on all the Spits of that vintage. There is no rubber boot, but I seem to recall that there is a threaded collar one can coax off and apply grease to the joint. It has been a while since I've worked on one, most of my recent experience is with just the 2 U-joint shafts. mjb. You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sun Dec 27 22:06:29 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 22:06:29 -0700 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft In-Reply-To: <4B3832A2.2070609@bradakis.com> References: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net><9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew><07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <4B3832A2.2070609@bradakis.com> Message-ID: HOLD ON! I went back and re-read the original post and my British to English translator has failed me. Instead of reading (American) Driveshaft, I read (British) Driveshaft which is the axle in US terminology. That said, I am now guessing that he is talking about the normal CV-Joint that is stock on the later 1500 models. That one to my knowledge is not replaceable as I previously described. If it were me and I had problems with that end, I would go ahead and have a driveline shop replace the CV-Joint with another U-Joint yolk and properly balance the unit. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 9:23 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft Joe Curry wrote: > I don't know which CV-Joints your car has because there are a lot of cars > that they could have been taken from, but typically, one side of the CV > Joint has a rubber "gaiter" attached to it. I'd guess he has the standard driveshaft found on all the Spits of that vintage. There is no rubber boot, but I seem to recall that there is a threaded collar one can coax off and apply grease to the joint. It has been a while since I've worked on one, most of my recent experience is with just the 2 U-joint shafts. mjb. You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Dec 28 05:51:43 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 07:51:43 -0500 Subject: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft Message-ID: <380-2200912128125143662@M2W106.mail2web.com> As far as I know, they are not rebuildable, however having said that I would like to know what joint that was actually used because I believe that it is the same joint that Canely Classics uses on the CV axle shaft conversion. If that is the case, then new ones could be obtained, and welded on to the DRIVESHAFT to fix an old one, and I could use them for my own AXLE SHAFT conversion. I already have the outer CV joints from a 1500 FWD car and all I need is to get some inner joints that fit the diff. These would! As for the current drive shaft fix, the best bet is to get another drive shaft from an earlier car with double u joints, not a CV jointed one and rebuild that. You may have to re-size it as there are different lengths, depending upon which engine trans that you have. The problem with just replacing the CV joint with a standard one on your shaft is that You need some sort of sliding spline arrangement to take up the small amount of travel that still exists even thought the engine and transmissions are mounted securely (there is still a little bit of travel because of the rubber mounts). This is accomplished by either a sliding joint in the Driveshaft somewhere (In your case, the CV Joint) or in the earlier shafts, by a strap arraignment on the Driveshafts (you need to see it to understand how it works). Simply welding another u joint on the end of yours will not allow for the small fore aft movement,and will put a large amount of stress on the engine and transmission mounts, causing them to fail very quickly. Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA Original Message: ----------------- From: Kevin Rhodes krhodes1 at maine.rr.com Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 20:57:56 -0500 To: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on one end and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that big joint? I assume it should have some grease in it or something? I've noticed that it has a good bit of play in it and lets out a clang on occasion.... Kevin Rhodes Westbrook, Maine Freddy the mongrel Spitfire - still going strong after 15 years (!) of ownership You are subscribed as v6spitfireguy at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Dec 28 06:13:23 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 08:13:23 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Some 1500 questions Message-ID: <380-2200912128131323178@M2W003.mail2web.com> I just tore the 1500 (MG) engine down to do a quick inspection, and it would appear that the engine has just been rebuilt. The mains and rods are .020 under, and it would appear that it was done because somebody spun a rod bearing before. The journal area around that rod (number 1) has discoloration indicating that it got pretty darn hot. Anyway, the job looks to have been done correctly. I did notice that the main bearings were Cleavite 77's! I didnt think that these were still available! If they are I would like to know who carries them - I also have a later head with the injector ports, so that will be replaced with an earlier head. Too bad, as I believe that the valves were done when the rebuild was performed - It will probably be going on eBay since I dont need an injection port head, and maybe somebody else does - The pistons appear to be of stock dimensions and there is little if any ridge (that I can feel anyway) but they are the dished 7.50:1 compression variaty. I was wondering about replacing them with the 9.00:1, 76 federal flat top versions, but am a little concerned about possibly having to use premium fuel. Anybody used these in their 1500 and found this to be true? I also notice that this MG unit has an extra bracket on the front motor plate that attaches to the block on the left (or exhaust) side for a bit of extra support that I don't believe the Spitfires never had. Anybody confirm this? I may use it unless the header would hit as Ii like the extra support that it would give- I also got the water pump with the fan clutch, and am thinking about using that as well All this is going on my wife's 70 that already has a 1500 tranny, but is currently sporting a 1300 with twin SU's which will be transferred to the 1500, although I would like to get a pair of 1 1/2 units instead of the 1 1/4 units on now! Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From fishplate at charter.net Mon Dec 28 07:18:38 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:18:38 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Some 1500 questions In-Reply-To: <380-2200912128131323178@M2W003.mail2web.com> References: <380-2200912128131323178@M2W003.mail2web.com> Message-ID: At 08:13 AM 12/28/2009, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: >The pistons appear to be of stock dimensions and there is little if any >ridge (that I can feel anyway) but they are the dished 7.50:1 compression >variaty. I was wondering about replacing them with the 9.00:1, 76 federal >flat top versions, but am a little concerned about possibly having to use >premium fuel. Anybody used these in their 1500 and found this to be true? I've got a 76, I assume it's 9:1. I use premium fuel. The cost difference around here is about 12%. That means, at 25 MPG, it costs an extra $12 to go a thousand miles. If I couldn't afford that, I couldn't afford a Spitfire. I have used regular and mid-grade, but not in the hottest part of the year. I didn't notice any problems, though. Of course, in sunny San Diego, it'll be a little more expensive. But it's been my experience that higher octane fuel is available most everywhere. You could store a bottle of octane boost in the boot for emergencies. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From spitlist at cox.net Mon Dec 28 09:26:17 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 09:26:17 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Some 1500 questions In-Reply-To: References: <380-2200912128131323178@M2W003.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <13A576D82AB0417E8BCD80B98E64D249@joepentiumnew> If you used mid-grade or Regular unleaded and did not get any pinging, then you are throwing your money away using the Premium grade. The difference in the fuels is the octane rating and the only thing that octane does is increase the temperature at which the fuel ignites. If your engine does not show signs of pre-ignition using regular fuel, then you are not gaining anything by using higher octane fuels. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 7:19 AM To: v6spitfireguy at cox.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Some 1500 questions I've got a 76, I assume it's 9:1. I use premium fuel. The cost difference around here is about 12%. That means, at 25 MPG, it costs an extra $12 to go a thousand miles. If I couldn't afford that, I couldn't afford a Spitfire. I have used regular and mid-grade, but not in the hottest part of the year. I didn't notice any problems, though. Of course, in sunny San Diego, it'll be a little more expensive. But it's been my experience that higher octane fuel is available most everywhere. You could store a bottle of octane boost in the boot for emergencies. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From fpspitfire at comcast.net Mon Dec 28 09:49:26 2009 From: fpspitfire at comcast.net (fpspitfire at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:49:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Spits] Some 1500 questions In-Reply-To: <380-2200912128131323178@M2W003.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <1034856506.5190841262018966156.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Why do you want to replace the head with the earlier head?B Just get some plugs and use the later head if it's been done.B There is nothing wrong with the later head with the air injection ports...flow benches don't lie. aaron #87 HP Spitfire 1500 SCCA Southern Illinois Region ----- Original Message ----- From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net To: spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 8:13:23 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [Spits] Some 1500 questions I just tore the 1500 (MG) engine down to do a quick inspection, and it would appear that the engine has just been rebuilt. B The mains and rods are .020 under, and it would appear that it was done because somebody spun a rod bearing before. B The journal area around that rod (number 1) has discoloration indicating that it got pretty darn hot. B Anyway, the job looks to have been done correctly. B I did notice that the main bearings were Cleavite 77's! B I didnt think that these were still available! If they are I would like to know who carries them - I also have a later head with the injector ports, so that will be replaced with an earlier head. B Too bad, as I believe that the valves were done when the rebuild was performed - It will probably be going on eBay since I dont need an injection port head, and maybe somebody else does - The pistons appear to be of stock dimensions and there is little if any ridge (that I can feel anyway) but they are the dished 7.50:1 compression variaty. B I was wondering about replacing them with the 9.00:1, 76 federal flat top versions, but am a little concerned about possibly having to use premium fuel. B Anybody used these in their 1500 and found this to be true? I also notice that this MG unit has an extra bracket on the front motor plate that attaches to the block on the left (or exhaust) side for a bit of extra support that I don't believe the Spitfires never had. B Anybody confirm this? B I may use it unless the header would hit as Ii like the extra support that it would give- I also got the water pump with the fan clutch, and am thinking about using that as well All this is going on my wife's 70 that already has a 1500 tranny, but is currently sporting a 1300 with twin SU's which will be transferred to the 1500, although I would like to get a pair of 1 1/2 units instead of the 1 1/4 units on now! Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Mon Dec 28 11:05:09 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:05:09 -0700 Subject: [Spits] Some 1500 questions In-Reply-To: <1034856506.5190841262018966156.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1034856506.5190841262018966156.JavaMail.root@sz0072a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4B38F355.6030301@bradakis.com> Just plug the injection ports. You can use standard pipe plugs, though flat brass with a hex opening look a bit neater. On the 9:1 1500 autocross motor I built I ran regular gas on the street, no problem. For events I advanced the timing about 4 degrees and used a mix of about 1 gallon of 110 octane leaded race gas mixed with 5 - 6 gallons of regular unleaded. For street use you should be fine with an 87 octane fuel in a 9 to 1 engine. mjb. From krhodes1 at maine.rr.com Mon Dec 28 17:09:08 2009 From: krhodes1 at maine.rr.com (Kevin Rhodes) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 19:09:08 -0500 Subject: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft In-Reply-To: <380-2200912128125143662@M2W106.mail2web.com> References: <380-2200912128125143662@M2W106.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <7A.9F.13308.EA8493B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> >As for the current drive shaft fix, the best bet is to get another drive >shaft from an earlier car with double u joints, not a CV jointed one and >rebuild that. You may have to re-size it as there are different lengths, >depending upon which engine trans that you have. The problem with just >replacing the CV joint with a standard one on your shaft is that You need >some sort of sliding spline arrangement to take up the small amount of >travel that still exists even thought the engine and transmissions are >mounted securely (there is still a little bit of travel because of the >rubber mounts). This is accomplished by either a sliding joint in the >Driveshaft somewhere (In your case, the CV Joint) or in the earlier shafts, >by a strap arraignment on the Driveshafts (you need to see it to understand >how it works). Simply welding another u joint on the end of yours will not >allow for the small fore aft movement,and will put a large amount of stress >on the engine and transmission mounts, causing them to fail very quickly. Thanks everyone! My suspicion was that it was "non user servicable". At this point it is not causing any issues other than that occasional clang and the fact that if I get under the car I can see that it has a bit of play in it. But the car drives as smoothly as a Spitfire is capable of driving.... I suspect that at my current ~600 mile per annum usage rate it will last a good long time. I don't see that it has any removable parts, but I wonder if I could get some grease in it with a long needle tip on a grease gun? Can't imagine that would hurt. It's an O/D car, or I would swap it for the two u-joint sliding driveshaft I have from my parts car and call it a day. I guess I can get that one shortened when the time comes. -Kevin Rhodes Westbrook, Maine Soon to have four orphaned cars, seeing as I have Freddie and three Saabs... :-( From elliottr at rmi.net Mon Dec 28 17:12:18 2009 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 18:12:18 -0600 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Head Message-ID: <4B394962.8000200@rmi.net> Hi, I have an 80 Spitfire that I am thinking about taking the head off so I can bump the compression to somewhere around 9.0 - 9.5 from the stock 7.5. I rebuilt the lower end several years ago, but did not touch the head as it was judged to be in fine shape and I did not have spare money at the time. I am pretty sure the head is stock, but is there a way to verify that before taking the head off? I know that the only way to tell for sure is to measure the volume with the head off, but I would hate to take the head off, then find out it was already at 9.0 compression. So I would like to sort of confident that there was a good reason for me to take the head off. Thanks, Roger Elliott From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Dec 29 03:18:26 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:18:26 -0500 Subject: [Spits] Spitfire Head References: <4B394962.8000200@rmi.net> Message-ID: <3F631DD9B90F40B794BA508A38FD7296@mde.state.md.us> Remove a spark plug and you can look down inside the combustion chamber with a flashlight. Look to see if the piston is dished or flat. I'd suggest removing all the plugs to make it easier to hand crank the engine for ease of viewing. Check the stanpart number on the head. Paul G did a bit of study on the various high compression heads and has some information on them, particularly on the height of the head and the numbers. From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Dec 29 03:24:52 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 05:24:52 -0500 Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft References: <003101ca874a$6cef1d20$46cd5760$@net> <9902DC4A3596475B9E210BB6D91BB578@joepentiumnew> <07.CA.01157.EA0183B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4B8E43B21FE549CB8D982962AD49E8DA@mde.state.md.us> They are semi-servicable, due to parts availability problems. I've never found a cage or inner race, but the balls are standard and available, and alternative boots can be fitted (think I used a Tercel boot myself). Standard CV joint grease. To service them knock the band back on the boot, allowing you access to the joint. Now pry off the aluminum cap on the end of the main shaft. It's on there sorta like a bottle cap. This lets you get to the snap ring under it. At that point, it all slips apart and off the splines of the main shaft. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Rhodes" To: Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 8:57 PM Subject: [Spits] "CV-Joint" driveshaft > My car has the driveshaft with the big can-like cv-joint thing on one end > and a regular U-joint on the other. How do you service that big joint? I > assume it should have some grease in it or something? I've noticed that it > has a good bit of play in it and lets out a clang on occasion.... From doug at dougbraun.com Tue Dec 29 08:37:53 2009 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 07:37:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Spits] CV-Joint driveshaft In-Reply-To: <7A.9F.13308.EA8493B4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <260672.17114.qm@web604.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Are you sure that the joint is actually worn that bad? The Spit drive shaft is sort of notorious for vibration when it is not perfectly balanced. If the joint was sloppy enough to allow any significant sideways movement, I would expect to feel a harsh vibration at about 45 or 50 MPH. Doug