From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Sep  1 13:00:33 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 13:00:33 -0600
Subject: [Spits] [TR] THE GLEN-CONCOURSE EVENT - links
In-Reply-To: <c3f.3052334a.35ed4f13@aol.com>
References: <c3f.3052334a.35ed4f13@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48BC3BD1.4050006@tscusa.org>

Hi Larry,

It is supposed to be Friday at Watkins Glen State Park.  Judging starts 
at 10 am.

Have a look for full festival description and schedule information at
http://www.grandprixrestival.com

or http://www.grandprixfestival.com/schedule.html

Race Track  schedule of events are located on http://svra.com in the 
Vintage Race Section or
also here
*http://tinyurl.com/5sez3q*

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> Hello, does anyone know which day the concourse event is going to be  held?  
> larry schwartz 
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From s1500 at comcast.net  Tue Sep  2 10:01:01 2008
From: s1500 at comcast.net (Ryan Waltrip)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 16:01:01 +0000
Subject: [Spits] good news & bad news - shifter play.
Message-ID: <090220081601.13554.48BD633D000A583A000034F22206824693CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>

Good news: This year, it took less than a minute of starting effort to get the Spitty running this year. 
Bad news: Too late in this year to drive it regularly. 2.5 months of unemployment & business from my new job leaves me no free time. Oh well.

I took it out for a spin yesterday just to keep the battery & such happy. Noticed one problem suddenly crop up. The gearshift has WAY too much front-back play. It stays in gear just great. The lockballs & springs are behaving as intended, but the lever is playing it fast & loose.

I can only assume the bullet-shaped thing with the spring hasn't siezed, but moreso is a bit stuck. Is there a way to get it back into working without a major dismantle process? I figure if I can somehow get some transmission lube along the rail, it will hopefully drip into the bullet crevice and spring it back up again. 

If you measure from the gearshift knob, there's about 1.5 inches of travel that wasn't there before. Is this an artifact from not driving it regularly? It shifts & drives otherwise perfectly. 

From rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com  Tue Sep  2 11:04:50 2008
From: rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com (rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:04:50 -0400
Subject: [Spits] engine stand
Message-ID: <13619494.227261220375091005.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web05-z02>

Does anyone have some photos of a block on an engine stand? 
The small diameter threads on the back of the block scare me. Anyone have similar concerns. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words....
thanks in advance,
Bob

From doug at dougbraun.com  Tue Sep  2 12:23:44 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:23:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] good news & bad news - shifter play.
In-Reply-To: <090220081601.13554.48BD633D000A583A000034F22206824693CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <730309.28526.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Possibly the shifter lever's ball (around which it
pivots) has fallen apart?  This happened to me once-
the shifter lever suddenly got real sloppy.  I
replaced the ball, and everything has been fine since.

(I have a 3-rail gearbox in my '72.)

Doug

--- Ryan Waltrip <s1500 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Good news: This year, it took less than a minute of
> starting effort to get the Spitty running this year.
> 
> Bad news: Too late in this year to drive it
> regularly. 2.5 months of unemployment & business
> from my new job leaves me no free time. Oh well.
> 
> I took it out for a spin yesterday just to keep the
> battery & such happy. Noticed one problem suddenly
> crop up. The gearshift has WAY too much front-back
> play. It stays in gear just great. The lockballs &
> springs are behaving as intended, but the lever is
> playing it fast & loose.
> 
> I can only assume the bullet-shaped thing with the
> spring hasn't siezed, but moreso is a bit stuck. Is
> there a way to get it back into working without a
> major dismantle process? I figure if I can somehow
> get some transmission lube along the rail, it will
> hopefully drip into the bullet crevice and spring it
> back up again. 
> 
> If you measure from the gearshift knob, there's
> about 1.5 inches of travel that wasn't there before.
> Is this an artifact from not driving it regularly?
> It shifts & drives otherwise perfectly. 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Tue Sep  2 12:31:21 2008
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:31:21 -0700
Subject: [Spits] engine stand
In-Reply-To: <13619494.227261220375091005.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web05-z02>
References: <13619494.227261220375091005.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web05-z02>
Message-ID: <7FFD0583147941BA89C72C43C0CD9FA2@yourb27fb1c401>

Bob, I sent a pic off list.

I used bolts that thread into the block, with washers to take up any slack
for the two top stand brackets, and long bolts with coarse threads, and
again washers to take up the slack, secured to the engine plate.
You can't remove the crank with the rear plate still installed. So depending
on what you intend, you might want to take off the rear plate, and secure
the stand brackets into the holes securing the plate.

Hope that helps.

Nick Moseley 

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+nmoseley=dccnet.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+nmoseley=dccnet.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 10:05 AM
To: Spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] engine stand

Does anyone have some photos of a block on an engine stand? 
The small diameter threads on the back of the block scare me. Anyone have
similar concerns. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words....
thanks in advance,
Bob

From rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com  Tue Sep  2 12:53:57 2008
From: rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com (rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 14:53:57 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Emailing: 80 Spit engine + clean out camera 110
Message-ID: <4532880.685961220381637972.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web08-z02>

Thanks Nick, it does help. I'm mounting straight to the block itself, no rear engine plate is on it. I'm starting a restoration and I'm a little apprehensive of the small bolt diameter that will go into the block casting. I have fears that the whole thing will break. I'm also using a cheap "Harbor Freight " type engine stand. The hardware that comes with it is obviously meant to be used with big American car type engines. The metal tubes that came with it are also fairly large in diameter, so I'll probably will just add some washers to distribute the weight over a larger surface area. I'm not sure if I'll even use the large metal plates that came with it. Maybe I can bolt the block directly to the "spider" bar, which then slips into the stand's hole.
thanks,
Bob Dambrauskas 
---- Nick Moseley <nmoseley at dccnet.com> wrote: 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Nick Moseley

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  2 13:40:24 2008
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 14:40:24 -0500
Subject: [Spits] good news & bad news - shifter play.
In-Reply-To: <090220081601.13554.48BD633D000A583A000034F22206824693CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>
References: <090220081601.13554.48BD633D000A583A000034F22206824693CFCFCACE9C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY139-W351339A4311B497695C4D0BA5F0@phx.gbl>

I'll second Doug's motion as the plastic ball at the base of the gear lever as
the prime suspect (mine have done just that this spring - it literally fell
out in pieces when I removed the remote gearlever extension). There are a
number of plastic bits in the linkage and all appear to have a pretty high
failure rate - have redone 3 transmissions this summer and all three had at
least one of the plastic bbushings in the linkage disintigrated/missing.

The good news is the repair kit (containing all the bits that break) is
relatively cheap and easy to install.

cheersScott> Subject: [Spits] good news & bad news - shifter play....The
gearshift has WAY too much front-back play. It stays in gear just great. The
lockballs & springs are behaving as intended, but the lever is playing it fast
& loose.> > I can only assume the bullet-shaped thing with the spring hasn't
siezed, but moreso is a bit stuck. Is there a way to get it back into working
without a major dismantle process? I figure if I can somehow get some
transmission lube along the rail, it will hopefully drip into the bullet
crevice and spring it back up again. > > If you measure from the gearshift
knob, there's about 1.5 inches of travel that wasn't there before. Is this an
artifact from not driving it regularly? It shifts & drives otherwise
perfectly.
_________________________________________________________________

From bill at gingerich.us  Tue Sep  2 20:34:00 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 21:34:00 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Emailing: 80 Spit engine + clean out camera 110
In-Reply-To: <4532880.685961220381637972.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web08-z02>
References: <4532880.685961220381637972.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web08-z02>
Message-ID: <F519F2325BEB408B985DD7B447DA970A@shack2>

>From my experience, I wouldn't worry.  When I rebuilt my 1500 engine in
2002, I used a generic 3 wheeled engine stand.  I also used standard fine
thread bolts (with 3 washers under each head) from the hardware store to
hold the engine on the stand.  I saw absolutely no issues with strength of
the bolts.  

My stand didn't have any plates on the 4 bars that attached to the rotating
spindle section that goes into the stand.  It took a bit of fiddling around
before I got the positioning right.  The block was not well centered on the
spindle, but it worked OK.  The biggest issue was rotating the block in the
stand with the out of balance situation.

I'll see if I have a picture to send you off line.

BillG
Newalla, OK


 

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rdambra1 at rochester.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 1:54 PM
To: Nick Moseley
Cc: Spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Emailing: 80 Spit engine + clean out camera 110

Thanks Nick, it does help. I'm mounting straight to the block itself, no
rear engine plate is on it. I'm starting a restoration and I'm a little
apprehensive of the small bolt diameter that will go into the block casting.
I have fears that the whole thing will break. I'm also using a cheap "Harbor
Freight " type engine stand. The hardware that comes with it is obviously
meant to be used with big American car type engines. The metal tubes that
came with it are also fairly large in diameter, so I'll probably will just
add some washers to distribute the weight over a larger surface area. I'm
not sure if I'll even use the large metal plates that came with it. Maybe I
can bolt the block directly to the "spider" bar, which then slips into the
stand's hole.
thanks,
Bob Dambrauskas 

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Tue Sep  2 22:02:48 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 22:02:48 -0600
Subject: [Spits] [6pack] [TR]  Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021043380.25457@isis.mit.edu>
	<0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <48BE0C68.80805@tscusa.org>

Blake J. Discher wrote:
> I'll be there in the Stag all weekend, arrive Thursday.
> Looking forward to the fun, I've never been to The Glen.
>
> Free poster for VTR members:
> http://www.vtr.org/eCardImages/WatkinsGlenPoster.jpg
>
> Cheers,
> Blake Discher
> _______________________________________________
>   
Susan and I will be there, arriving Wednesday, then at the various 
places Thursday through Sunday.  Have not absorbed the schedules yet, 
I'll do that on the plane.

I may be looking for a few seats for one or two of the winery drives on 
Friday.
I'll take one of those posters Blake!

Ought to be a great scene!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  3 08:20:10 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 07:20:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Bell Exhaust/w Camber Compesator
Message-ID: <169552.47459.qm@web43133.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi All,

The wife's GT6 MK1 has a twin stainless Bell Exhaust. 
It currently hangs down too far to allow for a camber
compensator.  I believe the reason it hangs down is
due to the position of the mufflers.  My goal is to
move the system forward and UP.  I "think" this will
allow for the camber compensator??  Anyone else out
there have this set up on a GT6 MK1?

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez # 597
GT6 MK1 RHD
Cincinnati, OH

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep  3 11:35:16 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 10:35:16 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [Spits] LAST CALL - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7,
 2008
Message-ID: <7902283.1220463317152.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

WEBSITE:
         www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html

THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008
The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th

Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at
Sierra
Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again
gather
in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have a show car?
Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress
are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is essentially the old Palo
Alto
British Meet in a new location. We are also expecting another great display of
automotive
oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for
free.

SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th

Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be
handled
by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their
doors
on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast Herb Gibson's Jazz Orchestra
will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There is no
preregistration.
There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all entrants will receive a
commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate.

SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th

The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse
(the
same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea.
Itbs
no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them.
We
will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM.  A detailed map will be
provided.
The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking
tyres
and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon.

Call for information:  310-392-6605
e-mail:  <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>

DIRECTIONS:

The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway
(101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just
take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the
Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site.

LODGING ALTERNATIVES:

BEST DEAL! Right at the Brisbane  Marina. The Radisson, very upscale, business
type
hotel with gourmet restaurant. We have special British Car Meet rate of $109
per
night, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway,
Brisbane,
phone 415-467-4400. Ask for the British Car Meet rates.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Sep  4 15:56:50 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2008 17:56:50 -0400
Subject: [Spits] fixing gearbox leaks
Message-ID: <48C02162.20817.1BB1CF45@localhost>

My Spitfire's supposedly rebuilt gearbox drips oil onto the exhaust 
pipe.  It's embarrasing, really.  Visual inspection shows oil all 
over the outside, a classic case of external lubrication.  I'm 
guessing that, appearances notwithstanding, it isn't really leaking 
through the metal casing nor even through most of the seams, but 
rather from just one or two key places, that the oil is being blown 
around to make it *look* like the casing is porous.  And I'm thinking 
I need to pull it and re-seal it.

So the question is, what would be the likely places?  Front, rear, 
both, other seams?

Don't know when I'm going to find the time to do this, but it needs 
to be done.  Either that or build a shield.

Tanks,

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Sep  4 16:12:03 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 15:12:03 -0700
Subject: [Spits] fixing gearbox leaks
In-Reply-To: <48C02162.20817.1BB1CF45@localhost>
References: <48C02162.20817.1BB1CF45@localhost>
Message-ID: <19F2E469761E4CE5B944D6BB4781F379@newcomputer>

The most likely place is the front seal leaking down into the bell housing
and running out the bottom and being blown onto the pipe.  Of course, it
might not be gear oil at all but the rear main seal of the engine leaking
oil out into the bell housing where it is blown onto the pipe.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Muller
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 2:57 PM
To: Spitfires
Subject: [Spits] fixing gearbox leaks

My Spitfire's supposedly rebuilt gearbox drips oil onto the exhaust 
pipe.  It's embarrasing, really.  Visual inspection shows oil all 
over the outside, a classic case of external lubrication.  I'm 
guessing that, appearances notwithstanding, it isn't really leaking 
through the metal casing nor even through most of the seams, but 
rather from just one or two key places, that the oil is being blown 
around to make it *look* like the casing is porous.  And I'm thinking 
I need to pull it and re-seal it.

So the question is, what would be the likely places?  Front, rear, 
both, other seams?

Don't know when I'm going to find the time to do this, but it needs 
to be done.  Either that or build a shield.

Tanks,

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From growe58 at hotmail.com  Thu Sep  4 16:15:29 2008
From: growe58 at hotmail.com (Greg Rowe)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 18:15:29 -0400
Subject: [Spits] fixing gearbox leaks
In-Reply-To: <48C02162.20817.1BB1CF45@localhost>
References: <48C02162.20817.1BB1CF45@localhost>
Message-ID: <BLU117-W4947E806F32E67B5B27D46AA590@phx.gbl>

You didn't say which gearbox you have, but the single rails
will leak from the rear seal.  You have to pull the driveshaft
and transmission cover to get at it, but the transmission
can be left in place.  Not too bad of a job and eliminated
most of my leak which was also landing right on the exhaust
pipe causing embarrassing smoke when idling at a long stop
light.  At this point, I suspect that the oil covering my
trans is actually from the engine as I never seem to need
to add any fluid to the trans anymore.

Best!

Greg Rowe> From: jimmuller at rcn.com> To: spitfires at autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 4
Sep 2008 17:56:50 -0400> Subject: [Spits] fixing gearbox leaks> > My
Spitfire's supposedly rebuilt gearbox drips oil onto the exhaust > pipe. It's
embarrasing, really. Visual inspection shows oil all > over the outside, a
classic case of external lubrication. I'm > guessing that, appearances
notwithstanding, it isn't really leaking > through the metal casing nor even
through most of the seams, but > rather from just one or two key places, that
the oil is being blown > around to make it *look* like the casing is porous.
And I'm thinking > I need to pull it and re-seal it.> > So the question is,
what would be the likely places? Front, rear, > both, other seams?> > Don't
know when I'm going to find the time to do this, but it needs > to be done.
Either that or build a shield.> > Tanks,> > Jim Muller> jimmuller at rcn.com>
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu Sep  4 19:31:38 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 18:31:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] fixing gearbox leaks
In-Reply-To: <48C02162.20817.1BB1CF45@localhost>
Message-ID: <731537.81709.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My 3-rail gearbox has been leaking for years, and I
have not been able to completely eliminate the
problem.  It leaves a little puddle of gear oil on my
garage floor.

The engine, on the other had, hardly leaks at all.

I did do one non-obvious fix that reduced the leaking:
 I replaced the O-ring seals where the three shifter
rails pass through holes in the front of the gearbox
cover.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit



--- Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> My Spitfire's supposedly rebuilt gearbox drips oil
> onto the exhaust 
> pipe.  It's embarrasing, really.  Visual inspection
> shows oil all 
> over the outside, a classic case of external
> lubrication.  I'm 
> guessing that, appearances notwithstanding, it isn't
> really leaking 
> through the metal casing nor even through most of
> the seams, but 
> rather from just one or two key places, that the oil
> is being blown 
> around to make it *look* like the casing is porous. 
> And I'm thinking 
> I need to pull it and re-seal it.
> 
> So the question is, what would be the likely places?
>  Front, rear, 
> both, other seams?
> 
> Don't know when I'm going to find the time to do
> this, but it needs 
> to be done.  Either that or build a shield.
> 
> Tanks,
> 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From doug at dougbraun.com  Fri Sep  5 06:41:24 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 05:41:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] fixing gearbox leaks
In-Reply-To: <FEF321BC572544D0A11DD404F4A1D820@home9cmfx9peca>
Message-ID: <365927.89063.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Fortunately for me, the oil misses the exhaust pipe.
But you are right about the front non-seal.  I once
jacked the rear of the car way up, and got
transmission oil all over the floor (and clutch!).

Doug


--- Craig <cbhlouky at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Doug,
> Two thoughts.
> If you make a drip shield, curl the edges so the oil
> will run down the 
> shield, and not onto the pipe.
> the front does not have a seal where the shaft comes
> out, so if you park on 
> a steepdownhill, you will lose lots of oil. I'm not
> aware that anyone has 
> ever created any type of do-it-yourself seal....
> Craig NASS#382

From jhmdds at aol.com  Sat Sep  6 08:29:42 2008
From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 10:29:42 -0400
Subject: [Spits] (no subject)
Message-ID: <8CADE442306A845-FB8-2F29@MBLK-M25.sysops.aol.com>

I need some seatbelts to finish my '66 Spitfire project.? They don't have to be period, in fact I would like some 3 point retractable with a receiving stalk.? Any suggestions?

Thanks,

James

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 08:55:06 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 07:55:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Turn signal indicator stays on
Message-ID: <640325.47332.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi all,

After swapping bonnets on the wife's GT6 MK1, I'm
finding that the Turn signal indicator on the rev
counter stays on as soon as the key goes on.  It will
blink when I used the signals, but when off, the light
stays on.  I'm worried that the heat from the bulb
will cause damage...not to mention burn out
prematurely.

Any ideas?

Todd Bermudez
GT6 MK1 RHD # 597
Cincy, OH

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 08:58:45 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 07:58:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] 3/8-24 Mag lug nut Source?
Message-ID: <150410.88730.qm@web43140.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

All,

I'm headed out on a trip this Thursday.  I'm takin'
the wife's GT6 for it's maiden voyage(extended trip). 
We picked up a set of Western Mini-lite wheels.  They
require 3/8-24 mag lugs and I'm finding out very
quickly that they aren't falling out of the sky.  I
found a set on e-bay which is great, but are there
places where I can pick 'em up locally cus time is an
issue?

TIA

Todd Bermudez
GT6 MK1 RHD # 597
Cincy, OH

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Sep  8 12:52:31 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 11:52:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Turn signal indicator stays on
In-Reply-To: <640325.47332.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <389894.3405.qm@web606.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

First question:  Are the turn signals themselves
staying on?  Front and/or rear?  Left and/or right?

Normally when one or both turn signal lights are
burned out, the flasher will refuse to flash (because
of insufficient current) and the both the indicator
light and the non-burned-out turn signal will stay
lit.

I bet that one of the connectors to the front turn
signals did not get hooked up properly...

Doug Braun
'72 Spit



--- Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> After swapping bonnets on the wife's GT6 MK1, I'm
> finding that the Turn signal indicator on the rev
> counter stays on as soon as the key goes on.  It
> will
> blink when I used the signals, but when off, the
> light
> stays on.  I'm worried that the heat from the bulb
> will cause damage...not to mention burn out
> prematurely.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Todd Bermudez
> GT6 MK1 RHD # 597
> Cincy, OH
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 13:12:52 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:12:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Turn signal indicator stays on
In-Reply-To: <389894.3405.qm@web606.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <949285.37873.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Doug,

Everything works as they should...meaning they're off
when they're supposed to be and they flash when
they're supposed to??

Todd


--- Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:

> First question:  Are the turn signals themselves
> staying on?  Front and/or rear?  Left and/or right?
> 
> Normally when one or both turn signal lights are
> burned out, the flasher will refuse to flash
> (because
> of insufficient current) and the both the indicator
> light and the non-burned-out turn signal will stay
> lit.
> 
> I bet that one of the connectors to the front turn
> signals did not get hooked up properly...
> 
> Doug Braun
> '72 Spit
> 
> 
> 
> --- Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > After swapping bonnets on the wife's GT6 MK1, I'm
> > finding that the Turn signal indicator on the rev
> > counter stays on as soon as the key goes on.  It
> > will
> > blink when I used the signals, but when off, the
> > light
> > stays on.  I'm worried that the heat from the bulb
> > will cause damage...not to mention burn out
> > prematurely.
> > 
> > Any ideas?
> > 
> > Todd Bermudez
> > GT6 MK1 RHD # 597
> > Cincy, OH
> > _______________________________________________
> > 
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > 
> > Spitfires at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> > 
> > http://www.team.net/archive

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Sep  8 13:17:57 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:17:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Turn signal indicator stays on
In-Reply-To: <949285.37873.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <240999.63169.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If all the turn signals are off, and the indicator is
still on, it would take some strange combination of
bad connections and shorts to make that happen.

Are you 100% sure that all the turn signal lamps are
100% off (not even glowing dimly) when they are
supposed to be?

Doug


--- Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Doug,
> 
> Everything works as they should...meaning they're
> off
> when they're supposed to be and they flash when
> they're supposed to??
> 
> Todd
> 
> 
> --- Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:
> 
> > First question:  Are the turn signals themselves
> > staying on?  Front and/or rear?  Left and/or
> right?
> > 
> > Normally when one or both turn signal lights are
> > burned out, the flasher will refuse to flash
> > (because
> > of insufficient current) and the both the
> indicator
> > light and the non-burned-out turn signal will stay
> > lit.
> > 
> > I bet that one of the connectors to the front turn
> > signals did not get hooked up properly...
> > 
> > Doug Braun
> > '72 Spit
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > 
> > > Hi all,
> > > 
> > > After swapping bonnets on the wife's GT6 MK1,
> I'm
> > > finding that the Turn signal indicator on the
> rev
> > > counter stays on as soon as the key goes on.  It
> > > will
> > > blink when I used the signals, but when off, the
> > > light
> > > stays on.  I'm worried that the heat from the
> bulb
> > > will cause damage...not to mention burn out
> > > prematurely.
> > > 
> > > Any ideas?
> > > 
> > > Todd Bermudez
> > > GT6 MK1 RHD # 597
> > > Cincy, OH
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > 
> > > Support Team.Net 
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > 
> > > Spitfires at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> > > 
> > > http://www.team.net/archive

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 13:23:17 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:23:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Turn signal indicator stays on
In-Reply-To: <240999.63169.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <657997.43336.qm@web43134.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I'll check out each lamp when I get home

Cheers,

Todd

--- Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:

> If all the turn signals are off, and the indicator
> is
> still on, it would take some strange combination of
> bad connections and shorts to make that happen.
> 
> Are you 100% sure that all the turn signal lamps are
> 100% off (not even glowing dimly) when they are
> supposed to be?
> 
> Doug
> 
> 
> --- Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> > Hi Doug,
> > 
> > Everything works as they should...meaning they're
> > off
> > when they're supposed to be and they flash when
> > they're supposed to??
> > 
> > Todd
> > 
> > 
> > --- Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com> wrote:
> > 
> > > First question:  Are the turn signals themselves
> > > staying on?  Front and/or rear?  Left and/or
> > right?
> > > 
> > > Normally when one or both turn signal lights are
> > > burned out, the flasher will refuse to flash
> > > (because
> > > of insufficient current) and the both the
> > indicator
> > > light and the non-burned-out turn signal will
> stay
> > > lit.
> > > 
> > > I bet that one of the connectors to the front
> turn
> > > signals did not get hooked up properly...
> > > 
> > > Doug Braun
> > > '72 Spit
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > 
> > > > Hi all,
> > > > 
> > > > After swapping bonnets on the wife's GT6 MK1,
> > I'm
> > > > finding that the Turn signal indicator on the
> > rev
> > > > counter stays on as soon as the key goes on. 
> It
> > > > will
> > > > blink when I used the signals, but when off,
> the
> > > > light
> > > > stays on.  I'm worried that the heat from the
> > bulb
> > > > will cause damage...not to mention burn out
> > > > prematurely.
> > > > 
> > > > Any ideas?
> > > > 
> > > > Todd Bermudez
> > > > GT6 MK1 RHD # 597
> > > > Cincy, OH
> > > >
> _______________________________________________
> > > > 
> > > > Support Team.Net 
> > http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > > 
> > > > Spitfires at autox.team.net
> > > >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> > > > 
> > > > http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Sep  8 14:01:52 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 16:01:52 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Turn signal indicator stays on
In-Reply-To: <657997.43336.qm@web43134.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <240999.63169.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48C54C70.3389.47E91C6@localhost>

On 8 Sep 2008 at 12:23, Todd Bermudez wrote:

> I'll check out each lamp when I get home

I'd suggest you do more, if you have a voltmeter or a wiring diagram.

Ask youself this - how can a bulb possibly glow if it has no voltage 
across its terminals?  It can't (duh).  So if a bulb is glowing all 
by itself it must be getting voltage from somewhere.  Those bulbs are 
wired with one side to ground and the other side getting voltage when 
the appropriate switch is closed, so some wire is feeding it voltage 
when it isn't supposed to.  This suggests the misconnection is 
somewhere else, possible behind the dashboard or maybe under the 
bonnet but not directly related to the light wiring itself.  Does it, 
for example, make any difference if the ignition or accessories are 
switched on or off?

Note, the complete circuit from voltage to ground might not be 
direct.  For example, a ground circuit could go through the horns, 
i.e. power through light through horn to ground.  And mentioning 
horns suggests another possibility.  Aren't the horns wired such that 
they are always powered and you honk them by grounding their "other 
side" to something in the steering column?  Accidentally running the 
powered horn wire to a light terminal would be a possible way they 
could be staying on.

On the other hand, ask youself this - how can a bulb possibly glow if 
it has no voltage across its terminals?  Maybe Lucas, Prince Of 
Darkness, is having pangs of guilt.  You think?  Nah....


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Sep  8 14:41:40 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 13:41:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Turn signal indicator stays on
In-Reply-To: <48C54C70.3389.47E91C6@localhost>
Message-ID: <514080.30987.qm@web607.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The turn signal indicator is a special case (on my '72
Spit, at least).  The indicator bulb is connected
between the left and right turn signal feeds.  Neither
terminal is grounded.  When either turn signal is
activated, current flows through the indicator bulb
and through the opposite side turn signal lamps to
ground.  (The current is not enough to actually light
up the opposite side lamps.)

Doug


--- Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:


>  Those bulbs are 
> wired with one side to ground and the other side
> getting voltage when 
> the appropriate switch is closed, so some wire is
> feeding it voltage 
> when it isn't supposed to.  This suggests the
> misconnection is 
> somewhere else, possible behind the dashboard or
> maybe under the 
> bonnet but not directly related to the light wiring
> itself. 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Sep  9 09:04:48 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 11:04:48 -0400
Subject: [Spits] lightswitch come apart?
Message-ID: <48C65850.26539.894F851@localhost>

Yesterday I cleaned up a few 'lectrical gremlins on the GT6+.  I 
replaced a bunch of the bullet connectors, installed a new headlight 
rocker switch from Spitbits.

The front rocker panel on the switch seems to be upside down.  To get 
the terminals on the back arranged as the original and to get the 
correct "upside down" British behavior (throw down to turn on), the 
switch must be oriented such that the graphics are incorrect.  The 
"lights on" graphic must be on the top and the beams graphic shines 
out to the right instead of the left.  This is consistent with the 
premise that the rocker is upside down.  Have any of you tried to 
disassemble the switch?  If so, is there a secret magic maneuver or 
incantation?

I know, it isn't an earthshaking problem, but I'd hate to lose points 
in a Concourse because of such an originality violation.  Plus it 
bothers me.  All day I've been observing strange things like 
electrons flowing backwards, water flowing uphill, generators which 
continue to spin with no fan belt attached, turn signals which glow 
all by themselves.  Something is wrong in the world, and I'm hoping 
that it's just a mis-assembled lightswitch.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From nmoseley at dccnet.com  Tue Sep  9 10:38:44 2008
From: nmoseley at dccnet.com (Nick Moseley)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 09:38:44 -0700
Subject: [Spits] lightswitch come apart?
In-Reply-To: <48C65850.26539.894F851@localhost>
References: <48C65850.26539.894F851@localhost>
Message-ID: <7CBC7FA3B7A9483C974627C5B660F981@yourb27fb1c401>

Jim, if it bothers you, take heart. There is light at the other end of the
rocker switch!
The switches can be dis-assembled, with a certain amount of care, prying
with flat-bladed screwdrivers, and tongue set just so at the corner of
mouth.  
The end of the rocker moves a copper tab to ride over different tabs
connected to the wires. Beware, as there is small spring in there to create
tension against the contacts. It would create a more emotional, and less
constructive tension, if one were to lose it.
Good luck!
Nick Moseley 

From Mackmi at usa.redcross.org  Tue Sep  9 12:01:15 2008
From: Mackmi at usa.redcross.org (Mackmi at usa.redcross.org)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 14:01:15 -0400
Subject: [Spits] lightswitch come apart?
In-Reply-To: <7CBC7FA3B7A9483C974627C5B660F981@yourb27fb1c401>
Message-ID: <32B95304CB44EF4E81483EEA6D05978201BE9547@brnyrchex2.bio.ri.redcross.net>

I usually dis-assemble items like your switch in a clean dish tub.  The
small or volitile parts can't escape me.

Mike Mack

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+mackmi=usa.redcross.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+mackmi=usa.redcross.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Nick Moseley
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 12:39 PM
To: 'Spitfires'
Subject: Re: [Spits] lightswitch come apart?

Jim, if it bothers you, take heart. There is light at the other end of
the
rocker switch!
The switches can be dis-assembled, with a certain amount of care, prying
with flat-bladed screwdrivers, and tongue set just so at the corner of
mouth.
The end of the rocker moves a copper tab to ride over different tabs
connected to the wires. Beware, as there is small spring in there to
create
tension against the contacts. It would create a more emotional, and less
constructive tension, if one were to lose it.
Good luck!
Nick Moseley
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 10 06:21:10 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 05:21:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Seam Sealer
Message-ID: <463521.52507.qm@web43141.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi All,

I noticed a leak when washing the wife's GT6.  The
bonnet was closed, but when I finished I noticed a ton
of water in the passenger's footwell.  This is a RHD
car so the battery is on that side.  I'm assuming the
water came in thru the scuttle & out the little drain
& then ran along over to the battery box.  It would
appear that there was a new battery box welded in, but
I'm pretty sure it's leaking around the box.  I'd love
to seal it up, but with what?  

TIA,

Todd Bermudez #597
'68 GT6 MK1 RHD
Cincy, OH

From doug at dougbraun.com  Wed Sep 10 07:45:01 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 06:45:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Seam Sealer
In-Reply-To: <463521.52507.qm@web43141.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <702489.97016.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

You can get genuine automotive seam sealer, made for
example by 3M at a good auto parts store or a shop
that sells automotive paint or body shop supplies.

The stuff dries tough, and it is paintable.

DON'T use silicone!  It will end up looking like an
amateur hack job, especially since paint will not
stick to it.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Todd Bermudez <red_tr250 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
> 
> I noticed a leak when washing the wife's GT6.  The
> bonnet was closed, but when I finished I noticed a
> ton
> of water in the passenger's footwell.  This is a RHD
> car so the battery is on that side.  I'm assuming
> the
> water came in thru the scuttle & out the little
> drain
> & then ran along over to the battery box.  It would
> appear that there was a new battery box welded in,
> but
> I'm pretty sure it's leaking around the box.  I'd
> love
> to seal it up, but with what?  

From hupshall at triumphcars.com  Wed Sep 10 11:15:20 2008
From: hupshall at triumphcars.com (Huw Upshall)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:15:20 -0700
Subject: [Spits] 1500 commission plate
Message-ID: <E0D5A2117398D842B051C66F295A601D02D21DCD1165@animal.redmond.upshall.net>

Does anybody know who actually makes the reproduction US late 1500 commission
plates?

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Sep 11 13:01:35 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 15:01:35 -0400
Subject: [Spits] tires and tie rods
Message-ID: <48C932CF.20777.13BA6677@localhost>

So today I took the GT6 over to a respected tire place to have the 
wheels balanced  (I spent nearly two hours there but that's another 
story.)  They balanced the tires but showed me how one of them at 
least had a fair amount of bounce.  They said that one possible 
action which might improve them was to re-mount the tire on the rim 
but it would have cost more and taken yet longer.  I opted out, will 
see how the car feels first.  But I'm curious.  Would not an even 
better solution be for a racing shop to shave them down to round?  
The tires are 5yrs old and have like-new tread.  I've never worried 
about such a thing before, never really had to, I guess.

Second issue.  There is a fair amount of play in one of the inner tie
rod ends.  I dealt with one just a year or two ago, and I think it 
was that one.  I don't recall exactly what I did but I recall that 
the inner joint can be disassembled.  A new inner tie rod end is only
$25.  I can always just pull it apart again, see how much adjustment 
it might have (if any... I really don't recall), then order a new one
if necessary.  But I'm always short on time for such operations.  I'd
rather cut straight to the chase if possible.  Any recommedations?

Tanks,


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Sep 11 13:01:35 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 15:01:35 -0400
Subject: [Spits] lightswitch come apart?
Message-ID: <48C932CF.10708.13BA65DB@localhost>

On 9 Sep 2008 at 8:24, fishplate at charter.net wrote:

> Yes.  In fact, if you're patient, it will disassemble itself...

How long do I have to wait?  I put it on the kitchen table and waited
three days, but it didn't do a thing.

I confess I don't have as much patience as I did when I was younger. 
It used to be that if I waited long enough dirty dishes would wash 
themselves, dirty laundry would throw itself into the hamper, etc.  
Now I find myself doing all that stuff manually.
-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From doug at dougbraun.com  Thu Sep 11 13:13:49 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 12:13:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] tires and tie rods
In-Reply-To: <48C932CF.20777.13BA6677@localhost>
Message-ID: <244590.92765.qm@web605.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

About the wheels:  Make absolutely sure that the rims
are not dented or out-of-round, before doing anything
complicated or expensive to the tires.

Doug

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri Sep 12 04:01:27 2008
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 06:01:27 -0400
Subject: [Spits] tires and tie rods
References: <48C932CF.20777.13BA6677@localhost>
Message-ID: <001601c914be$85de7420$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

By bounce, I take it the tires are out of round.  All tires are out of round 
actually, just some more than others.

You know the cars you sometimes see on the highway with the bouncing wheel? 
The one that makes you think they really need to get their wheels balanced? 
Sometimes those are balanced, and your seeing the bouncing action of a badly 
out of round tire.

Were I in your shoes, I'd take the wheels balanced and out of round and see 
if they feel ok.  If they do, then I'd be good to go.

If they pounded or caused me problems on the interstate (faster spin 
agrevates the problem), then I'd find a shop that understands radial runout 
and has the proper equipment and knowledge to correct the problem.  The 
current shop is correct that many times it can be helped by breaking the 
bead and rotating the tire around the rim, but you don't want to just do it 
blindly.  As well, there is a type of balancing machine that can compensate 
for this.  Pickup trucks with big off road tires often have a problem with 
this, so those shops catering to them often know how to balance a wheel with 
this problem.

I would not shave the tire generally.  That, imo, is a last resort method. 

From ljvaughan at pldi.net  Tue Sep 16 20:58:01 2008
From: ljvaughan at pldi.net (Larry Vaughan)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 21:58:01 -0500
Subject: [Spits] New battery box
Message-ID: <48D07239.8040905@pldi.net>

I drilled out all the spotwelds and got my old rusty battery box out. I 
drilled a little too far just one or two times. I had planned on 
drilling holes around the perimeter of the new battery box and faux 
spotwelding it in. Before I drilled any holes and was trial fitting the 
box I didn't see how I could seal it after I welded it. I guess thick 
paint was all that sealed the old one. I don't know. Anyone have a 
better idea of how to install a new battery box? The old braces look 
like swisscheese too.

Larry

From bill at gingerich.us  Tue Sep 16 21:01:45 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 22:01:45 -0500
Subject: [Spits] New battery box
In-Reply-To: <48D07239.8040905@pldi.net>
References: <48D07239.8040905@pldi.net>
Message-ID: <8105904EA9F0478BBCCE82F8BD596B2A@shack2>

Hi Larry,

Rimmer Brother lists the 2 braces in there online catalog for about $23
each.  Part numbers are 613686 & 613687.

As for sealing the battery box, how about automotive seam sealer?  Designed
for the job, and paintable too.

Bill G
Newalla, OK



-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Larry Vaughan
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 9:58 PM
To: spitfires
Subject: [Spits] New battery box

I drilled out all the spotwelds and got my old rusty battery box out. I 
drilled a little too far just one or two times. I had planned on 
drilling holes around the perimeter of the new battery box and faux 
spotwelding it in. Before I drilled any holes and was trial fitting the 
box I didn't see how I could seal it after I welded it. I guess thick 
paint was all that sealed the old one. I don't know. Anyone have a 
better idea of how to install a new battery box? The old braces look 
like swisscheese too.

Larry

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 17 08:27:07 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 07:27:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] New battery box
Message-ID: <446776.97473.qm@web52204.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

you need to spot or mig weld it. 
its best to bent the braces to the side or
remove them completely and then install the box.
drill some holes in the edge
and weld in the holes to the firewall etc..
brazing will warp everything.  i
did the same thing to my gt6 about 10 yrs ago and ive now
had to cut it all
out and repair it.
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com




----- Original
Message ----
From: Larry Vaughan <ljvaughan at pldi.net>
To: spitfires
<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 10:58:01 PM
Subject: [Spits] New battery box

I drilled out all the spotwelds and got my
old rusty battery box out. I 
drilled a little too far just one or two times.
I had planned on 
drilling holes around the perimeter of the new battery box
and faux 
spotwelding it in. Before I drilled any holes and was trial fitting
the 
box I didn't see how I could seal it after I welded it. I guess thick
paint was all that sealed the old one. I don't know. Anyone have a 
better
idea of how to install a new battery box? The old braces look 
like
swisscheese too.

Larry
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From bill at gingerich.us  Wed Sep 17 20:16:26 2008
From: bill at gingerich.us (Bill Gingerich)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 21:16:26 -0500
Subject: [Spits] GT6's for sale
Message-ID: <1A2717BB1A674E93984A186C489A333A@shack2>

Greetings, All!

 

My continued frustration in my job hunting has lead to the realization that
it will be a long time until I can get to some of my projects.  Therefore, I
have posted 2 of my GT6 projects on VTR.  One is a '70, the other a '73.
Check out the classifieds at www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org/> .  Let me
know if you're interested in either car.

 

The '70 is really very restorable, and would be a shame to part it out.
While I can't control what you do with it after you buy it, I really would
like it to go to a good home.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

BillG #133

Newalla, OK

From sagreenwood at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 19 18:38:11 2008
From: sagreenwood at earthlink.net (Stuart Greenwood)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:38:11 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Rear Outer dive shafts ( half shafts in UK speak)
Message-ID: <380-22008962003811598@earthlink.net>

When I completely restored all the mechanical stuff on my 1971 Mk IV Spitfire I noticed that the holes in the yokes attached to the drive shafts inner ends  ( where the Universal Joint Needle bearing cups press in) had at  some time in the past been badly mauled. The cups where loose in the holes rather than a press fit but as there didn't appear to be any play I hoped they would be OK. After 3000 miles I noticed a UJ " clonking" sound when there was no torque on the drive ( like coasting up to a stop light say) and at 4500 miles it was too bad to ignore.  Laying under the car and using a screw driver to lever on the UJs I could detect a fair amount of play in the bearing cups that where in the yoke on the drive shaft.... the ones on the yoke on the differential shaft were OK.  I thought that the bearing had gone.... there are poor quality parts about these days as you know. Anyway when I  removed the left hand side shaft ( this one had the most play) the needle bearing looked OK and there was no wear marks on the bearing surfaces of the crucifx. But I could see that the bearing cups had been rotating inside the yoke.  So it's apparent that I need either new yokes or get them sleeved and re-drilled to size. Since there holes have to be pretty accurately machined and I don't know how much press fit there should be ( maybe 0..002  inch on diameter I would think) I'm not keen on this approach unless someone knows of a place that has experience doing this.  The problem is that you don't seem to be able to purchase just the yokes... you have to get the complete drive shaft and , as you know, this means pressing the shaft out of the hub etc..... and as I did all this doing the restoration it doesn't need doing.
So my question is has anyone replaced a yoke on a drive shaft? It's a splinned fit with what looks like a roll pin holding it in place. If this can be done I can probably pick up some used drive shafts and just use the yokes.

sagreenwood at earthlink.net
Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I

From sagreenwood at earthlink.net  Fri Sep 19 18:49:18 2008
From: sagreenwood at earthlink.net (Stuart Greenwood)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:49:18 -0700
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
Message-ID: <380-22008962004918608@earthlink.net>

When I was removing the outer drive shafts from my 1971 MkIV spit I noticed that the flex brake hose ( I have the Aeroquipe  type) are only just long enough when the car is jacked up and the rear suspension is fully unloaded and drops until the shock absorber is fully extended.  When I look in the Mk IV ROM, section 70.15.17 there is a nice drawing showing that flex holes connects to the rear wheel cylinder.... as mine does. However in the Rimmers catalogue, page 106 it suggests that the flex hose doesn't connect to the cylinder but to another length of pipe before it goes to the cylinder.  Is the Rimmers picture just for the single line system fitted to early cars rather than the tandem dual line system?


Stuart A Greenwood
sagreenwood at earthlink.net
Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Sep 19 18:57:59 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:57:59 -0700
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <380-22008962004918608@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22008962004918608@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E9F5F2F518B4404FA95AF7B5C2FE93E7@newcomputer>

There are two derivations of hoses for the MkIV.  The earlier cars have
shorter axles and therefore would most likely have the same sort of hoses as
the earlier cars (Mk1 through Mk3).

The later cars have longer axles and had to have a modified line to
compensate for the added distance of travel.

I know that the 1500 series have the thing that you are describing as
portrayed by the Rimmer catalog.  I expect that was begun when the axles
were lengthened.

Regards,
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Stuart Greenwood
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 5:49 PM
To: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses

When I was removing the outer drive shafts from my 1971 MkIV spit I noticed
that the flex brake hose ( I have the Aeroquipe  type) are only just long
enough when the car is jacked up and the rear suspension is fully unloaded
and drops until the shock absorber is fully extended.  When I look in the Mk
IV ROM, section 70.15.17 there is a nice drawing showing that flex holes
connects to the rear wheel cylinder.... as mine does. However in the Rimmers
catalogue, page 106 it suggests that the flex hose doesn't connect to the
cylinder but to another length of pipe before it goes to the cylinder.  Is
the Rimmers picture just for the single line system fitted to early cars
rather than the tandem dual line system?


Stuart A Greenwood
sagreenwood at earthlink.net
Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Fri Sep 19 19:06:29 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 21:06:29 EDT
Subject: [Spits] Rear Outer dive shafts ( half shafts in UK speak)
Message-ID: <ce5.3d582f5b.3605a695@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/19/2008 8:39:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sagreenwood at earthlink.net writes:

So my  question is has anyone replaced a yoke on a drive shaft? It's a 
splinned fit  with what looks like a roll pin holding it in place. If this can be 
done I can  probably pick up some used drive shafts and just use the  yokes.
==AM==
Well, yes, it's possible. It is held together as you say. However, it  
usually takes at least a 12-ton press, lots of patience (and possibly heat), and  it 
probably wouldn't hurt to wait until the planets align and you've arranged  
for an expert in Voodoo or the like.
 
Good luck. ;-)  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial 
challenges?  Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and 
calculators.      (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)

From celiracer81 at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 20 09:35:14 2008
From: celiracer81 at hotmail.com (celiracer81 at hotmail.com)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 10:35:14 -0500
Subject: [Spits] PDWA switch
Message-ID: <BLU124-W47621725DC0BD650F2C0A4A2490@phx.gbl>

Hello listers,

ASide from Ebay, does anyone know where i could pick up a PDWA switch for my
1968 Spitfire?  Mine is in pretty bad shape.  I looked at Spitbits, and they
had no price listed for the part (I will be calling later this afternoon),
Victoria British does not have the part listed for a 68, Moss & BPNorthwest
don't seem to have the part listed at all.

Any place else I could check?

Thanks,
Dave
'68 Spit
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Sep 20 09:55:48 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 11:55:48 -0400
Subject: [Spits] PDWA switch
In-Reply-To: <BLU124-W47621725DC0BD650F2C0A4A2490@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48D4E4C4.17421.179E706D@localhost>

On 20 Sep 2008 at 10:35, celiracer81 at hotmail.com wrote:

> I looked at Spitbits, and they
> had no price listed for the part (I will be
> calling later this afternoon),

Do call them.  They often have a stash of used parts.

Is there much difference between the '68 and later years' PWDWADPWA 
switch?  Perhaps the threads...

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From parrotthead01 at comcast.net  Sun Sep 21 17:06:44 2008
From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 19:06:44 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate
In-Reply-To: <8105904EA9F0478BBCCE82F8BD596B2A@shack2>
References: <48D07239.8040905@pldi.net>
	<8105904EA9F0478BBCCE82F8BD596B2A@shack2>
Message-ID: <001d01c91c3e$b807d180$28177480$@net>

Does anyone make a pre-fab Fuel Pump Blanking plate with a built-in vent for
a 1980 Spitfire 1500?  I'm building up too much crankcase pressure and oil
is spurting out the dipstick (again).

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Sep 21 17:37:45 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 16:37:45 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate
In-Reply-To: <001d01c91c3e$b807d180$28177480$@net>
References: <48D07239.8040905@pldi.net><8105904EA9F0478BBCCE82F8BD596B2A@shack2>
	<001d01c91c3e$b807d180$28177480$@net>
Message-ID: <CA5612CBCB8B4E228A2FE002D4E7BE52@newcomputer>

I have made 2 0f them for personal use.  I suppose I could make up one for
you if you need one.

How about 10 bucks plus 5 more for shipping?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Daniel Parrott
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 4:07 PM
To: 'spitfires'
Subject: [Spits] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate

Does anyone make a pre-fab Fuel Pump Blanking plate with a built-in vent for
a 1980 Spitfire 1500?  I'm building up too much crankcase pressure and oil
is spurting out the dipstick (again).
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From parrotthead01 at comcast.net  Mon Sep 22 17:20:25 2008
From: parrotthead01 at comcast.net (Daniel Parrott)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:20:25 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?
Message-ID: <005601c91d09$cb27bca0$617735e0$@net>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-81-MG-MGB-Midget-Triumph-Spitfire-Ignition
-Reluctor_W0QQitemZ280267973869QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280267973869&_trkparm
s=72%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Sep 22 17:33:37 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 16:33:37 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?
In-Reply-To: <005601c91d09$cb27bca0$617735e0$@net>
References: <005601c91d09$cb27bca0$617735e0$@net>
Message-ID: <230818F0AB214D7EBF03E00C9F1E42C6@newcomputer>

A reluctor ring is a part that attaches to the crankshaft and provides a
magnetic timing pulse to Electronic ignition systems.  This type of setup is
typically associated with EFI applications to control timing without using
any sort of distributor.

I am assuming that this listing is significantly incomplete and needs to
also include a description of the rest of the after-market equipment that is
required to make it work.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Daniel Parrott
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 4:20 PM
To: 'spitfires'
Subject: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-81-MG-MGB-Midget-Triumph-Spitfire-Ignition
-Reluctor_W0QQitemZ280267973869QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280267973869&_trkparm
s=72%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 22 18:03:04 2008
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:03:04 -0500
Subject: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?
In-Reply-To: <230818F0AB214D7EBF03E00C9F1E42C6@newcomputer>
References: <005601c91d09$cb27bca0$617735e0$@net>
	<230818F0AB214D7EBF03E00C9F1E42C6@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <CD75FB28-FD23-42A6-BDC2-1EB8D817EE7F@sbcglobal.net>

Joe & Dan,

This is a part that goes inside the late model distributor and works  
with the Opus Electronic Ignition.  This fits over the distributor  
shaft and the little black bits fire off the electronic contacts.

The only reason I know this is that I just took my distributor apart  
to install a NOS replacement Opus electronic ignition module.  This  
is what I bought:

http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29392-2357-0? 
uid=354141787&site=0&ver=EOIBSA080805&lk=URL&Item=260285489773

Berger Bob
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO




On Sep 22, 2008, at 6:33 PM, Joe Curry wrote:

> A reluctor ring is a part that attaches to the crankshaft and  
> provides a
> magnetic timing pulse to Electronic ignition systems.  This type of  
> setup is
> typically associated with EFI applications to control timing  
> without using
> any sort of distributor.
>
> I am assuming that this listing is significantly incomplete and  
> needs to
> also include a description of the rest of the after-market  
> equipment that is
> required to make it work.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On  
> Behalf Of
> Daniel Parrott
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 4:20 PM
> To: 'spitfires'
> Subject: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-81-MG-MGB-Midget-Triumph-Spitfire- 
> Ignition
> -Reluctor_W0QQitemZ280267973869QQcmdZViewItem? 
> hash=item280267973869&_trkparm
> s=72%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Sep 22 18:37:01 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:37:01 -0400
Subject: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?
In-Reply-To: <230818F0AB214D7EBF03E00C9F1E42C6@newcomputer>
References: <005601c91d09$cb27bca0$617735e0$@net>
	<230818F0AB214D7EBF03E00C9F1E42C6@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <20080923003658.PVJD3342.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 07:33 PM 9/22/2008, you wrote:

>I am assuming that this listing is significantly incomplete and needs to
>also include a description of the rest of the after-market equipment that is
>required to make it work.

It also needs a description of the fact that it's for a six-cylinder engine...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Sep 22 19:06:40 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 18:06:40 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?
In-Reply-To: <20080923003658.PVJD3342.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
References: <005601c91d09$cb27bca0$617735e0$@net><230818F0AB214D7EBF03E00C9F1E42C6@newcomputer>
	<20080923003658.PVJD3342.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <9458620147DE4230AD4E1B035F6ABFAC@newcomputer>

The one pictured in the ad is only for a 4 banger.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff
Scarbrough
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 5:37 PM
To: 'spitfires'
Subject: Re: [Spits] Just what is a "Spitire Ignition Reluctor"?

At 07:33 PM 9/22/2008, you wrote:

>I am assuming that this listing is significantly incomplete and needs to
>also include a description of the rest of the after-market equipment that
is
>required to make it work.

It also needs a description of the fact that it's for a six-cylinder
engine...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Sep 22 20:48:40 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:48:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate
In-Reply-To: <001d01c91c3e$b807d180$28177480$@net>
Message-ID: <727886.8799.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Does your car still have a PVC setup?  If so, there
should generally not be any pressure build-up.

Even if you have no way to hook up a PVC valve
(non-stock carb?), the hose fitting on the rocker arm
cover should be able to provide venting.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Daniel Parrott <parrotthead01 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Does anyone make a pre-fab Fuel Pump Blanking plate
> with a built-in vent for
> a 1980 Spitfire 1500?  I'm building up too much
> crankcase pressure and oil
> is spurting out the dipstick (again).
> __

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Sep 22 20:56:01 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:56:01 -0700
Subject: [Spits] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate
In-Reply-To: <727886.8799.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <001d01c91c3e$b807d180$28177480$@net>
	<727886.8799.qm@web603.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3B37C2629C4142AE977AD2221B5EBE23@newcomputer>

Doug,
Unfortunately, it does not provide sufficient venting.  I found that out
myself quite a few years ago.  Providing venting for the crankcase does
resolve the problem.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug
Braun
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 7:49 PM
To: Daniel Parrott; 'spitfires'
Subject: Re: [Spits] Fuel Pump Blanking Plate

Does your car still have a PVC setup?  If so, there
should generally not be any pressure build-up.

Even if you have no way to hook up a PVC valve
(non-stock carb?), the hose fitting on the rocker arm
cover should be able to provide venting.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Daniel Parrott <parrotthead01 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Does anyone make a pre-fab Fuel Pump Blanking plate
> with a built-in vent for
> a 1980 Spitfire 1500?  I'm building up too much
> crankcase pressure and oil
> is spurting out the dipstick (again).
> __
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From froggi60 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 22 21:36:23 2008
From: froggi60 at yahoo.com (WFO Herb)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:36:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Northwest GT6
Message-ID: <503878.3384.qm@web56006.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Anyone interested in a GT6?  First body style.
 
Needs floor pans, body fairy rust-free (West car). Star in windscreen, all
other glass seems good.
 
Contact me.
 
Herb

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Sep 22 21:40:22 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:40:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] Rear Outer dive shafts ( half shafts in UK speak)
In-Reply-To: <380-22008962003811598@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <394333.64577.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ted Schumacher once told me that the pin can be
removed and the yoke can be pressed off and a new one
pressed on.  But I have never heard of the yokes being
sleeved or otherwise repaired.  I think there are
enough used ones out there to make it uneconomical.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit

--- Stuart Greenwood <sagreenwood at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> When I completely restored all the mechanical stuff
> on my 1971 Mk IV Spitfire I noticed that the holes
> in the yokes attached to the drive shafts inner ends
>  ( where the Universal Joint Needle bearing cups
> press in) had at  some time in the past been badly
> mauled. 

From doug at dougbraun.com  Mon Sep 22 21:42:38 2008
From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:42:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <380-22008962004918608@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <400559.73084.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

1972 cars definitely do NOT have the short section of
pipe.  I have a factory MK IV parts book, and it does
not show the pipe.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Stuart Greenwood <sagreenwood at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> When I was removing the outer drive shafts from my
> 1971 MkIV spit I noticed that the flex brake hose (
> I have the Aeroquipe  type) are only just long
> enough when the car is jacked up and the rear
> suspension is fully unloaded and drops until the
> shock absorber is fully extended.  When I look in
> the Mk IV ROM, section 70.15.17 there is a nice
> drawing showing that flex holes connects to the rear
> wheel cylinder.... as mine does. However in the
> Rimmers catalogue, page 106 it suggests that the
> flex hose doesn't connect to the cylinder but to
> another length of pipe before it goes to the
> cylinder.  Is the Rimmers picture just for the
> single line system fitted to early cars rather than
> the tandem dual line system?
> 
> 
> Stuart A Greenwood
> sagreenwood at earthlink.net
> Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Sep 23 00:03:32 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 23:03:32 -0700
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <400559.73084.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <380-22008962004918608@earthlink.net>
	<400559.73084.qm@web602.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C8343D4F54F6436394974A4040F63AAB@newcomputer>

Perhaps when the axles were lengthened, Triumph just lengthened the hoses to
accommodate.  Afterwards, they obviously added the solid piping.  Maybe due
to the longer hoses having a possibility of rubbing against the axle shafts.

(Simply speculation)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug
Braun
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:43 PM
To: sagreenwood at earthlink.net; spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] rear brake hoses

1972 cars definitely do NOT have the short section of
pipe.  I have a factory MK IV parts book, and it does
not show the pipe.

Doug Braun
'72 Spit


--- Stuart Greenwood <sagreenwood at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> When I was removing the outer drive shafts from my
> 1971 MkIV spit I noticed that the flex brake hose (
> I have the Aeroquipe  type) are only just long
> enough when the car is jacked up and the rear
> suspension is fully unloaded and drops until the
> shock absorber is fully extended.  When I look in
> the Mk IV ROM, section 70.15.17 there is a nice
> drawing showing that flex holes connects to the rear
> wheel cylinder.... as mine does. However in the
> Rimmers catalogue, page 106 it suggests that the
> flex hose doesn't connect to the cylinder but to
> another length of pipe before it goes to the
> cylinder.  Is the Rimmers picture just for the
> single line system fitted to early cars rather than
> the tandem dual line system?
> 
> 
> Stuart A Greenwood
> sagreenwood at earthlink.net
> Triumph Spiitfire Mk IV, Triumph Stag Mk I
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk  Tue Sep 23 08:13:33 2008
From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 15:13:33 +0100
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <C8343D4F54F6436394974A4040F63AAB@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <20080923140253.3062A187652@autox.team.net>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Curry
> 
> Perhaps when the axles were lengthened, Triumph just lengthened the hoses
> to
> accommodate.  Afterwards, they obviously added the solid piping.  Maybe
> due
> to the longer hoses having a possibility of rubbing against the axle
> shafts.
> 
> (Simply speculation)

The hoses were lengthened and short rigid pipes introduced together with the
long driveshafts in late 1972. The hoses have different end fittings to mate
with the pipe flare, rather than sealed with a copper washer directly to the
cylinder,
Cheers,
Bill.

Rarebits4classics
       .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232
Calne
Wiltshire
SN11 8WA
United Kingdom
http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Sep 23 11:41:37 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 13:41:37 -0400
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
Message-ID: <380-220089223174137576@M2W005.mail2web.com>

Actually, the rear axles (the "driveshafts" that I believe you are alluding
to) were not lengthened until the 1973 model year -
71 and 72 got the swing spring and square tail, but the same length old
axles as the MKIII's had, albeit with bigger U-Joint flanges.

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Bill Davies bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 15:13:33 +0100
To: spitlist at cox.net, doug at dougbraun.com, sagreenwood at earthlink.net,
spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] rear brake hoses


> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Joe Curry
>
> Perhaps when the axles were lengthened, Triumph just lengthened the hoses
> to
> accommodate.  Afterwards, they obviously added the solid piping.  Maybe
> due
> to the longer hoses having a possibility of rubbing against the axle
> shafts.
>
> (Simply speculation)

The hoses were lengthened and short rigid pipes introduced together with the
long driveshafts in late 1972. The hoses have different end fittings to mate
with the pipe flare, rather than sealed with a copper washer directly to the
cylinder,
Cheers,
Bill.

Rarebits4classics
       .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232
Calne
Wiltshire
SN11 8WA
United Kingdom
http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk
Spitfires at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires

http://www.team.net/archive

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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Sep 23 12:04:11 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:04:11 -0400
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <380-220089223174137576@M2W005.mail2web.com>
References: <380-220089223174137576@M2W005.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <48D92F9B.80404@bright.net>

You are both correct.Overseas, the cars were a year ahead of us. So, our 
'73 Spit was in the UK as a '72. We make steelbraid brake hose sets and 
this is always one of the issues that creates potential problems when 
making up hose kits.. Ted


v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote:
> Actually, the rear axles (the "driveshafts" that I believe you are alluding
> to) were not lengthened until the 1973 model year -
> 71 and 72 got the swing spring and square tail, but the same length old
> axles as the MKIII's had, albeit with bigger U-Joint flanges.
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: Bill Davies bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk
> Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 15:13:33 +0100
> To: spitlist at cox.net, doug at dougbraun.com, sagreenwood at earthlink.net,
> spitfires at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Spits] rear brake hoses
>
>
>   
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Joe Curry
>>
>> Perhaps when the axles were lengthened, Triumph just lengthened the hoses
>> to
>> accommodate.  Afterwards, they obviously added the solid piping.  Maybe
>> due
>> to the longer hoses having a possibility of rubbing against the axle
>> shafts.
>>
>> (Simply speculation)
>>     
>
> The hoses were lengthened and short rigid pipes introduced together with the
> long driveshafts in late 1972. The hoses have different end fittings to mate
> with the pipe flare, rather than sealed with a copper washer directly to the
> cylinder,
> Cheers,
> Bill.
>
> Rarebits4classics
>        .......just what you've been looking for
>
> PO Box 1232
> Calne
> Wiltshire
> SN11 8WA
> United Kingdom
> http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft.
> Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1685 - Release Date: 9/22/2008 4:08 PM
>
>   


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Sep 23 12:51:56 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 11:51:56 -0700
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <380-220089223174137576@M2W005.mail2web.com>
References: <380-220089223174137576@M2W005.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <FE4FF9BDEB2F4662AB778AE1537FE39E@newcomputer>

Right!  According to the Thomason book, the change happened at serial number
50,000.  That was the first of the 1973 models that began production in
October of 1972.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
v6spitfireguy at cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 10:42 AM
To: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk
Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] rear brake hoses

Actually, the rear axles (the "driveshafts" that I believe you are alluding
to) were not lengthened until the 1973 model year -
71 and 72 got the swing spring and square tail, but the same length old
axles as the MKIII's had, albeit with bigger U-Joint flanges.

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Bill Davies bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 15:13:33 +0100
To: spitlist at cox.net, doug at dougbraun.com, sagreenwood at earthlink.net,
spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] rear brake hoses

From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk  Tue Sep 23 15:09:12 2008
From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 22:09:12 +0100
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
In-Reply-To: <FE4FF9BDEB2F4662AB778AE1537FE39E@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <20080923205834.EF91D187651@autox.team.net>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net]
>  
> Right!  According to the Thomason book, the change happened at serial
> number
> 50,000.  That was the first of the 1973 models that began production in
> October of 1972.

Yes, that's right. Date of registration is irrelevant, the long shaft models
weren't marketed in the UK until (I think) March 1973, but were built from
October 1972,
Cheers,
Bill Davies.

Rarebits4classics
       .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232
Calne
Wiltshire
SN11 8WA
United Kingdom
http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Tue Sep 23 18:26:57 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:26:57 EDT
Subject: [Spits] rear brake hoses
Message-ID: <c27.47eb5db6.360ae351@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/23/2008 4:58:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk writes:

>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Curry  [mailto:spitlist at cox.net]
>  
> Right!  According to the  Thomason book, the change happened at serial
> number
>  50,000.  That was the first of the 1973 models that began production  in
> October of 1972.

Yes, that's right. Date of registration is  irrelevant, the long shaft models
weren't marketed in the UK until (I  think) March 1973, but were built from
October 1972,
Presumably that also applies to FM 1 U and future, for the "Federal" 1973  
model-year 1500 series. That would jibe with the advertising for same as well as 
 the couple of very early US 1500s I've seen over the years.  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald 
Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial 
challenges?  Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and 
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From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Sep 26 14:49:20 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 21:49:20 +0100
Subject: [Spits] [6pack] Rally Benefits Kids Battling Serious Illness
References: <8B78691E-1083-4F04-A3FC-0FD9D6D71A42@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <02c801c92019$5a813c20$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Blake Discher wrote:
> This Saturday, 33 fellow British car enthusiasts will set off on one
> of three 800-mile legs of America's British Reliability Run, the
> annual two-day British car rally that has raised more than $130,000
> for children's charities since 2003.

Blake, thanks again for your acknowledgement at the bottom of this year's website. I wish you all a 
lot of fun, fine weather, no breakdowns and even more money raised for three very deserving causes.

You know how I'd like to see your excellent idea develop?

As the All British Reliability Run now seems to be involving three separate states in three 
different runs, why not encourage *all* the VTR affiliated clubs in all the States to do a similar 
run on the same date in the years to come. Quite apart from the fun element, just think of the money 
that could be raised!!!!! After all, you're the VTR President, so they ought to listen to you :)

Isn't this why we own the cars we do? To drive them and enjoy doing that with other like-minded 
people with a very tangible overall objective. C'mon you guys and gals. Badger your club committees 
and get them to think this was their idea for 2009 - and if they're not too sure, they're more than 
welcome to join up with me in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive. Details and outline route at 
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

Cheers, Jonmac